Support me by buying me a coffee on Ko-Fi! www.ko-fi.com/roxannerichardson How to move sleeve stitches to waste yarn and cast on additional stitches for the underarm.
Oh how I wish you finish demonstrating the other side. I hope I am able to do it with you one arm demo. Thank you so much for doing this. I’ve been stuck here for a long time, unable to finish my baby sweater. Blessings! 🧡
Roxanne - keep making more tutorials like this. You are clear - the camera is at a great angle the pace of the tutorial is just right .The demonstrating tools were awesome...can see the yarn clearly...!Thank you... keep 'em coming!!
So helpful! I'm at th same point in making a sweater from a pattern and I had a problem with understanding how to proceed with this step. I finally understand how to do it! Thank you!
Girl you are a good teacher! I have been looking for a how-to for raglan sweaters for an hour and so happy to finally find this. May Yahweh bless you!!!!
I'm knitting my first top down cardigan and was very confused by the pattern directions when dividing for the sleeves, but your video explained it all perfectly. Thanks so much.
Thank you so much Roxanne! I’m working on the Trescao sweater by Anna Dervout and your video was exactly what I needed for this part of the sweater! Thanks so much! I did it and I’m now on to the body of the sweater - phew !! Thanks so much! Also, thanks for the help on the “cast on” stitches!!
If you look just under the video, you'll see my photo, my name, and the number of videos I've made. If you click on my name, you'll be able to see a list of all the videos on my TH-cam channel.
This really worked for me! I am working with super bulky yarn on size 19 needles and had to rip back to where my sleeves were on waste yarn because of a huge bar that developed because my pattern said to make 1 before and after the markers. I picked up on the cast on technique pretty quick with your instructions. My bulky sweater is out of the “I’ll deal with it later basket” Many thanks to you!!
I am making my first top down sweater. The process shown in this video was not described at all in the directions. I made several mistakes, ripped back several times, and then found this video. I can't thank you enough for posting this.
Some patterns do not call for CO sts, and those patterns are usually baby sweater patterns. The fit tends to be better when there's a horizontal span of sts at the underarm, but in order to have the same stitch count for the sleeves and body, you'd need to end your increases early, then substitute the missing increases with CO sts. When you do the sleeves later, you'd PU 1 st for every st you CO for the body. Note this will make the armhole depth slightly shallower, as well.
Yup. It's really hard to visualize something that you've never seen before, and this particular technique I think is one of the hardest to understand if you've never seen/done it before! I'm glad you found it helpful!
I don't have any videos that demonstrate that, but I'm not even clear on what you're asking? Are you knitting flat, or in the round? Are you knitting top down or bottom up? Are you switching between two balls of yarn on the same piece of knitting, because the yarn is handpainted, and you're trying to minimize the color variation between two balls, or are you knitting across all the sts of the back with one ball, then switching to knitting across the front with the second ball?
i know this video is 4 years old, but thank you so much for posting it. it's my first time knitting anything other than beanies and scarves and i couldn't figure out the written pattern. following your video helped me understand it. hopefully, i can finish this sweater for my little nephew in time for the holidays. thank you!
You're very welcome! I originally made this video to help my students who were taking a class from me, but as you can see by the view count, you're not the only person who struggles to understand this sort of instruction! It's hard to visualize something you've never seen before. Good luck on your project!
The holes come from joining work that was knit in different directions. The sts appear to have been worked across the same row, but they haven't, which leaves a gap where a running thread between sts doesn't exist. Use the yarn tail hanging from picking up sts to work across the gap in duplicate st, or you run the tail through the purl bumps surrounding the gap on the WS and pull snuggly, similar to how you run the tail through live loops at the crown of a hat.
If I remember correctly, I used a Knitting Plain and Simple pattern for a Baby/Child's Top Down Raglan, but there are tons of top down raglan patterns out there, and they all use pretty much the same construction method.
Thank you Thank you Thank you. I didn't know what my instructions were trying to tell me at all. Didn't know how to use scrap yarn and certainly didn't understand c/o backwards loop. I can finish my sweater now hopefully.
Estoy sorprendida: hace 11 años existían agujas circulares? Yo las descubrí hace 2 o 3 años😅. Excelente explicación, claro y conciso, a veces leo patrones top down y no me doy idea cómo hacer ciertas cosas basicas. Saludos desde Argentina 🇦🇷
Thank you so much! You really helped me understand what the CO for the underarm part was in my pattern and how to do it. I was trying to figure it out on my own for a while and just couldn't. I usually crochet or knit just cowls and scarves so knitting patterns can be a bit confusing to me sometimes. :) Thank you!
I am so grateful you put this up! I have been so confused by the pattern I was working on and now it makes complete sense and I feel a bit of a numpty. In my defence, I took the pattern to my local knitting shop and they weren't able to help either!
This is my first time knitting a top down. You are very clear.I would like to see in a video, if possible, how do you start the sweater with the increases in the front for the neck. I can`t figure it out. Thanks a lot. I live in Argentina
Comments have a length limit, so it's really better if you can open a thread in my Ravelry group, Rox Rocks, rather than doing this in TH-cam comments. Having said that, I'm still not clear on what your question is regarding when to turn. After you've worked across all the sts on each of the pieces, you turn and work all the way back. Unless the issue is at the neck. Again, I don't have room to go on here, so it's best to head over to Ravelry.
I'm knitting flat and yes, it's bottom up....and yes, I'm switching between two balls of yarn. Knitting across all the sts of the back with one ball, then switching to knitting across the front with the second ball. This way.....when finished, both front and back are both completed.
I was thrilled to see this tutorial as I am knitting my first sweater. My one question concerns the cast on of the underarm stitches. I used the method shown here, and ended up with huge, messy loops when I continued the stockinet stitch. Would a knitted cast-on work better?
Working close to the tips of the needles and taking care not to pull the sts off, but to push them gently, keeping the needles close to each other, so that you don't end up with accumulating slack is one approach. Another is to cast on fewer sts than needed, and when working across those sts on the following row, make up for the reduced st count by doing a m1 increase every so often, as shown in this much more recent video here: th-cam.com/video/aMKfwZe1CR8/w-d-xo.html. Or, you can use a different CO that requires only a single strand, such as the knitted CO. Knitter's choice. Note that if knitting on, you will need to turn the work so that the needle with the working yarn attached is in your left hand while you do the CO, then you will return that needle to your right hand after the CO is complete.
@@RoxanneRichardson Wow! Thank you for the quick reply and helpful suggestions. After a couple more rows, I think things will be okay, and I will review these ideas next time I'm starting a project.
It sounds like what you're saying is that instead of using a Make 1 increase or other type of increase, you used a YO increases. Without having access to the pattern to see what it says, it's difficult for me to interpret it. It's likely that you are finished with the YO increases, though, which is typical at the point where you divide for the sleeves. You might have better luck asking for help on Ravelry, and include a link to the pattern so people have a visual guide to help you interpret.
I am a first time knitter instead of making a scarf I just jumped in the deep end & have started a jumper once you finish putting the sleeves on a yarn is better to complete the sleeves or the body first
Well, if you have the sleeves on waste yarn, and the body is on the needles, you might as well finish the body, first. If you're concerned about having enough yarn to complete the sweater, then I'd work the body until you finished the ball of yarn you're currently on, put the body on waste yarn, and then do the sleeves. That way, you know the sleeves are long enough, and you can knit the body to the correct length, if the yarn does hold out, or you can shorten the body a bit, if it looks like you aren't going to have enough.
@RoxMpls Thank you! The pattern I'm knitting uses kfb increases with a marker in between. In your opinion, should I go ahead and knit the first stitch after the marker when dividing for the sleeves? It sounds like I should (from your explanation if I am understanding you correctly.)
Thanks for the very clear explanation. I was wondering if you then have to switch to Double pointed needles when it comes time to do the sleeves? Or is it possible to still use circular needles when you knit the sleeves.
There are many choices for working small circumferences in the round. I typically use a 32'' circular needle for everything, and then change the technique I use, based on the circumference of the item. For small circumference items, I use the Magic Loop technique. For medium circumferences (like hats) I use Traveling Loop. Some knitters use the two circulars method of working in the round, which allows you to knit any circumference. There are also short circular needles (with exceedingly short tips), as well as hybrid needles called Flexi-Flips (from Addi). There are *always* multiple ways of getting to the same end point in knitting. I have videos on my channel demonstrating dpns, Magic Loop, the two-circs method, as well as a review of Flexi-Flips.
@@RoxanneRichardson Thanks, I’ve never used double pointed needles, and all the sweater patterns I’ve seen suggest switching to them for the sleeves. I love Addi circular needles, though. I’ll have to look into those hybrid needles. I’ll also check out your other videos on the subject. Thanks.
Hi! I am currently making my first sweater and this video tutorial was exactly what I needed! I was wondering when you knit that one extra stitch before slipping the sleeve stitches onto the tapestry needle, is that a standard move or do the instructions specifically ask you to do that? My instructions say: Work the foll row of chart, sm, k to m. Place the foll 66 sts on hold using a length of waste yarn, remove next marker. Knit all sts from the back, remove m. Place the foll 66 sts on hold using a length of waste yarn, remove m. Knit the rest of the front sts to the end of round. It doesn't specifically indicate knitting that extra stitch, but maybe it is done to avoid a hole later on at the armhole? I'm not sure! Also, it doesn't seem that I will be casting on any additional sts, right? Thank you so very much for your videos and your help! I really appreciate it!
I'm so glad you found the video helpful! Not all top down raglan patterns are exactly the same, so if your pattern says to knit to the marker, and then slip the sleeve sts to waste yarn, then that's what you need to do. Patterns use different types of increases, and handle the "seam line" for raglans in different ways. I can't tell you why your pattern doesn't specify casting on sts at the underarm, although it's pretty typical to do so, particularly for an adult-sized sweater. Most sweater patterns of any construction (raglan or otherwise) will have several inches of sts at the underarm for both the sleeve and the body. (You CO sts for the body, and then when you come back to those sleeve sts, you'd pick up a corresponding number along that CO edge for the sleeve. The reason for this is that people are three-dimensional, not flat! Given that your pattern doesn't call for that, you might find that that junction between the sleeve and body will be tight. I would suggest reading through the comments on Ravelry for your pattern, and see what people said about it, and what they might have done to compensate for it. Good luck! :-)
Great video....but do you have any with knitting both front and back of a sweater at same time with 2 balls of yarn? I'm unclear where the working yarn should be and when to turn.
Do you have any tips on how to pick those stitches up from the waste yarn? I'm working on an adult raglan sleeve sweater and I have 71 stitches on waste yarn and can't bring myself to cut the waste yarn to get them off and back onto the needle.
Don't remove the waste yarn until the sts are back on the needle. Use the waste yarn as a guide for the needle path. Once all of the sts are on the needle again, pull out the waste yarn.
Can I ask why you knit the first stitch after removing the stitch marker? I am knitting a pattern that does not tell me to knit that first stitch, and I'm wondering if it is helpful in some way when picking up stitches to knit the sleeves. Thanks for the video!
I prefer it, but you can use any CO that requires only one strand of yarn (knitting on or cable CO work, too). When casting on more than a couple of backwards loops, I cast on fewer, and then add in the missing ones on the next row, as m1 increases. This video demonstrates. th-cam.com/video/aMKfwZe1CR8/w-d-xo.html
hi, I am knitting a similar sweater but it has an eyelet pattern between the sleeves and body. The total stitches on the needle are 145 and the instruction says divide for sleeves: Knit 23sts (Front body) and put it on the holder. But now will these 23sts includes include the both the eye hole? Eyelet pattern is yo, k1, yo. Pls help
i have a question: generally when a pattern calls for the additional underarm stitches it also calls for corresponding underarm stitches on the sleeves, too... seems as if there will be a discrepancy (or a gap) when you seem up the sleeve. how does your pattern compensate for that...? thanks!
Hi Roxanne Your video is very good.Could you plese tell me how many stiches you cast on for a baby and how many for an medium size adult? Thank you so much!!
Babies and adults come in lots of sizes! Cast on numbers depend not just on size, but on yarn weight, needle size, and the resulting gauge you get with that yarn and those needles. You might want to refer to a written pattern or two, in addition to the measurements you're knitting for. There are lots of patterns on Ravelry (free and otherwise) that you can check out.
This video was made as a supplemental reference to a top-down raglan sweater class I taught at my LYS nearly seven years ago. I knew that this point in the project was where knitters new to top-down raglans often got stuck trying to interpret the instructions, and because my students were going to be doing this bit on their own, at home (between classes), I made the video. As you can see by the view count, my six students weren't the only ones who needed help at this point. The only thing you might be missing is a pattern for a top-down raglan sweater. :-)
I made this video 10 years ago as a between-classes reference video for my students when I was teaching a sweater class at my local yarn shop. There is no part 2.
This video is 10 years old. Back then, I would have mounted a digital camera on a tripod and wrapped my arms around to position my hands in front of the lens, and watched myself knit through the view finder.
This video was made years ago as a reference for an in-person class I was teaching, so that when the students went home to work on their projects and got to this point in the pattern, they could see what to do. All the other instruction was done in-person, so there are no other associated videos. If you are working on a specific project/pattern, and you have a question about some part of it, you might want to post your question on Ravelry.
+rabiya Lakhani This particular pattern happened to be a Knitting Pure and Simple top-down raglan cardigan sweater for children. The technique shown in this video is the same for nearly all top-down raglan sweaters and is not unique to the pattern. Your local yarn shop or Ravelry.com would be good sources for this type of pattern.
This is exactly what I need to continue working on a top-down baby sweater. Thank you so much!
This was a HUGE time saver! I read countless ways do this. Then I found your video. Thank you so much!
Loved the straight and direct lesson. You make things so simple to understand in your explanations. Thank you!
Oh how I wish you finish demonstrating the other side. I hope I am able to do it with you one arm demo. Thank you so much for doing this. I’ve been stuck here for a long time, unable to finish my baby sweater. Blessings! 🧡
Roxanne - keep making more tutorials like this. You are clear - the camera is at a great angle the pace of the tutorial is just right .The demonstrating tools were awesome...can see the yarn clearly...!Thank you... keep 'em coming!!
So helpful! I'm at th same point in making a sweater from a pattern and I had a problem with understanding how to proceed with this step. I finally understand how to do it! Thank you!
Girl you are a good teacher! I have been looking for a how-to for raglan sweaters for an hour and so happy to finally find this. May Yahweh bless you!!!!
I'm knitting my first top down cardigan and was very confused by the pattern directions when dividing for the sleeves, but your video explained it all perfectly. Thanks so much.
This is amazing.. I was having trouble understanding a sweater and this was EXACTLY what I needed to keep it going. Thanks so much!
Perfect instruction, thank you for thinking of this topic. It was doing my head in until I saw your video demonstration. :)
Thank you so much Roxanne! I’m working on the Trescao sweater by Anna Dervout and your video was exactly what I needed for this part of the sweater! Thanks so much! I did it and I’m now on to the body of the sweater - phew !! Thanks so much! Also, thanks for the help on the “cast on” stitches!!
If you look just under the video, you'll see my photo, my name, and the number of videos I've made. If you click on my name, you'll be able to see a list of all the videos on my TH-cam channel.
This is exactly what I was looking for. Straightforward yet through, thanks for taking the time to post! 😀
This really worked for me! I am working with super bulky yarn on size 19 needles and had to rip back to where my sleeves were on waste yarn because of a huge bar that developed because my pattern said to make 1 before and after the markers. I picked up on the cast on technique pretty quick with your instructions. My bulky sweater is out of the “I’ll deal with it later basket” Many thanks to you!!
This is so awesome! Thankyou! Clear and to the point. I can now confidently knit my sweater!
I am making my first top down sweater. The process shown in this video was not described at all in the directions. I made several mistakes, ripped back several times, and then found this video. I can't thank you enough for posting this.
I'm so glad you found it helpful! It's a very mysterious process to try to visualize, but after you've done it once, it all makes sense. :-)
Thank you for posting this, I am knitting a top-down raglan cardigan that doesn't explain how to divide the sleeves; this has saved my project! :)
Perfectly and clearly explained, thanks!
Some patterns do not call for CO sts, and those patterns are usually baby sweater patterns. The fit tends to be better when there's a horizontal span of sts at the underarm, but in order to have the same stitch count for the sleeves and body, you'd need to end your increases early, then substitute the missing increases with CO sts. When you do the sleeves later, you'd PU 1 st for every st you CO for the body. Note this will make the armhole depth slightly shallower, as well.
Thank you! I couldn't visualize how moving the arm stitches off and working the body of the sweater would work, but your video helped me immensely.
Yup. It's really hard to visualize something that you've never seen before, and this particular technique I think is one of the hardest to understand if you've never seen/done it before! I'm glad you found it helpful!
I don't have any videos that demonstrate that, but I'm not even clear on what you're asking? Are you knitting flat, or in the round? Are you knitting top down or bottom up? Are you switching between two balls of yarn on the same piece of knitting, because the yarn is handpainted, and you're trying to minimize the color variation between two balls, or are you knitting across all the sts of the back with one ball, then switching to knitting across the front with the second ball?
Thank you for these excellent instructions--I know how to proceed!
Well done!
thanks for making my first sweater adventure a bit less scary.
i know this video is 4 years old, but thank you so much for posting it. it's my first time knitting anything other than beanies and scarves and i couldn't figure out the written pattern. following your video helped me understand it. hopefully, i can finish this sweater for my little nephew in time for the holidays. thank you!
You're very welcome! I originally made this video to help my students who were taking a class from me, but as you can see by the view count, you're not the only person who struggles to understand this sort of instruction! It's hard to visualize something you've never seen before. Good luck on your project!
The holes come from joining work that was knit in different directions. The sts appear to have been worked across the same row, but they haven't, which leaves a gap where a running thread between sts doesn't exist. Use the yarn tail hanging from picking up sts to work across the gap in duplicate st, or you run the tail through the purl bumps surrounding the gap on the WS and pull snuggly, similar to how you run the tail through live loops at the crown of a hat.
Thankyou so much! This was exactly what I needed. You explained this very well. Whew!
I also want to thank you for this great video- I could not for the life of me figure this out!
So pleased I found you! Thank you for such a clear explanation, my first attempt at this technique
If I remember correctly, I used a Knitting Plain and Simple pattern for a Baby/Child's Top Down Raglan, but there are tons of top down raglan patterns out there, and they all use pretty much the same construction method.
Very helpful, thank you for such clear instructions.
Making my first sweater, thanks so much for this tutorial! Was exactly what I needed!
Wonderful!
Thank you Thank you Thank you. I didn't know what my instructions were trying to tell me at all. Didn't know how to use scrap yarn and certainly didn't understand c/o backwards loop. I can finish my sweater now hopefully.
+sbkir Wonderful! :-) Good luck with your project!
This was super helpful! Thanks for uploading.
Estoy sorprendida: hace 11 años existían agujas circulares? Yo las descubrí hace 2 o 3 años😅. Excelente explicación, claro y conciso, a veces leo patrones top down y no me doy idea cómo hacer ciertas cosas basicas. Saludos desde Argentina 🇦🇷
Circular needles have been around since the 1930s. They have become much more popular in the past 20 years or so.
Great video! Thanks so much for making it!
Thank you for this video...this clearly explains dividing sleeves
Thank you so much! You really helped me understand what the CO for the underarm part was in my pattern and how to do it. I was trying to figure it out on my own for a while and just couldn't. I usually crochet or knit just cowls and scarves so knitting patterns can be a bit confusing to me sometimes. :) Thank you!
You're welcome! This technique is not difficult, but it's very hard to visualize if you haven't done it before. Good luck on your project! :-)
I am so grateful you put this up! I have been so confused by the pattern I was working on and now it makes complete sense and I feel a bit of a numpty. In my defence, I took the pattern to my local knitting shop and they weren't able to help either!
this exactly what i needed. thank you
thank you! my pattern didn't explain this, and this really helped!
Thanks so much for the clear and concise instructions they really help ...Do you have more videos?
great video!!!!!!Thank you!!!very clear and useful!
Thank you so much! I was so scared to make the sleeves
This is my first time knitting a top down. You are very clear.I would like to see in a video, if possible, how do you start the sweater with the increases in the front for the neck. I can`t figure it out. Thanks a lot. I live in Argentina
Thank you so much
This was very helpful. Thank you!
Thank you!
You made take so easy thanks so much
Comments have a length limit, so it's really better if you can open a thread in my Ravelry group, Rox Rocks, rather than doing this in TH-cam comments. Having said that, I'm still not clear on what your question is regarding when to turn. After you've worked across all the sts on each of the pieces, you turn and work all the way back. Unless the issue is at the neck. Again, I don't have room to go on here, so it's best to head over to Ravelry.
I'm knitting flat and yes, it's bottom up....and yes, I'm switching between two balls of yarn. Knitting across all the sts of the back with one ball, then switching to knitting across the front with the second ball. This way.....when finished, both front and back are both completed.
I was thrilled to see this tutorial as I am knitting my first sweater. My one question concerns the cast on of the underarm stitches. I used the method shown here, and ended up with huge, messy loops when I continued the stockinet stitch. Would a knitted cast-on work better?
Working close to the tips of the needles and taking care not to pull the sts off, but to push them gently, keeping the needles close to each other, so that you don't end up with accumulating slack is one approach. Another is to cast on fewer sts than needed, and when working across those sts on the following row, make up for the reduced st count by doing a m1 increase every so often, as shown in this much more recent video here: th-cam.com/video/aMKfwZe1CR8/w-d-xo.html. Or, you can use a different CO that requires only a single strand, such as the knitted CO. Knitter's choice. Note that if knitting on, you will need to turn the work so that the needle with the working yarn attached is in your left hand while you do the CO, then you will return that needle to your right hand after the CO is complete.
@@RoxanneRichardson Wow! Thank you for the quick reply and helpful suggestions. After a couple more rows, I think things will be okay, and I will review these ideas next time I'm starting a project.
It sounds like what you're saying is that instead of using a Make 1 increase or other type of increase, you used a YO increases. Without having access to the pattern to see what it says, it's difficult for me to interpret it. It's likely that you are finished with the YO increases, though, which is typical at the point where you divide for the sleeves. You might have better luck asking for help on Ravelry, and include a link to the pattern so people have a visual guide to help you interpret.
Thank you so much!
You're welcome!
I am a first time knitter instead of making a scarf I just jumped in the deep end & have started a jumper once you finish putting the sleeves on a yarn is better to complete the sleeves or the body first
Yes enjoy the clear instruction as well as step by step I can crochet but not knit
Well, if you have the sleeves on waste yarn, and the body is on the needles, you might as well finish the body, first. If you're concerned about having enough yarn to complete the sweater, then I'd work the body until you finished the ball of yarn you're currently on, put the body on waste yarn, and then do the sleeves. That way, you know the sleeves are long enough, and you can knit the body to the correct length, if the yarn does hold out, or you can shorten the body a bit, if it looks like you aren't going to have enough.
Sevgili Roxanne reglan arttirmalari nasil yapiyorsunuz kol kesimine gelmeden onceki reglan arttirmalari gosterirmisiniz lutfen
@RoxMpls
Thank you! The pattern I'm knitting uses kfb increases with a marker in between. In your opinion, should I go ahead and knit the first stitch after the marker when dividing for the sleeves? It sounds like I should (from your explanation if I am understanding you correctly.)
Thanks for the very clear explanation. I was wondering if you then have to switch to Double pointed needles when it comes time to do the sleeves? Or is it possible to still use circular needles when you knit the sleeves.
There are many choices for working small circumferences in the round. I typically use a 32'' circular needle for everything, and then change the technique I use, based on the circumference of the item. For small circumference items, I use the Magic Loop technique. For medium circumferences (like hats) I use Traveling Loop. Some knitters use the two circulars method of working in the round, which allows you to knit any circumference. There are also short circular needles (with exceedingly short tips), as well as hybrid needles called Flexi-Flips (from Addi). There are *always* multiple ways of getting to the same end point in knitting. I have videos on my channel demonstrating dpns, Magic Loop, the two-circs method, as well as a review of Flexi-Flips.
@@RoxanneRichardson Thanks, I’ve never used double pointed needles, and all the sweater patterns I’ve seen suggest switching to them for the sleeves. I love Addi circular needles, though. I’ll have to look into those hybrid needles. I’ll also check out your other videos on the subject. Thanks.
Super!!!
Hi, thanks so much for explaining this so clear. Voice, view and instructions are perfect. Where can I find this pattern?
Hi! I am currently making my first sweater and this video tutorial was exactly what I needed! I was wondering when you knit that one extra stitch before slipping the sleeve stitches onto the tapestry needle, is that a standard move or do the instructions specifically ask you to do that?
My instructions say: Work the foll row of chart, sm, k to m. Place the foll 66 sts on hold using a length of waste yarn, remove next marker. Knit all sts from the back, remove m. Place the foll 66 sts on hold using a length of waste yarn, remove m. Knit the rest of the front sts to the end of round.
It doesn't specifically indicate knitting that extra stitch, but maybe it is done to avoid a hole later on at the armhole? I'm not sure! Also, it doesn't seem that I will be casting on any additional sts, right?
Thank you so very much for your videos and your help! I really appreciate it!
I'm so glad you found the video helpful!
Not all top down raglan patterns are exactly the same, so if your pattern says to knit to the marker, and then slip the sleeve sts to waste yarn, then that's what you need to do. Patterns use different types of increases, and handle the "seam line" for raglans in different ways.
I can't tell you why your pattern doesn't specify casting on sts at the underarm, although it's pretty typical to do so, particularly for an adult-sized sweater. Most sweater patterns of any construction (raglan or otherwise) will have several inches of sts at the underarm for both the sleeve and the body. (You CO sts for the body, and then when you come back to those sleeve sts, you'd pick up a corresponding number along that CO edge for the sleeve. The reason for this is that people are three-dimensional, not flat! Given that your pattern doesn't call for that, you might find that that junction between the sleeve and body will be tight. I would suggest reading through the comments on Ravelry for your pattern, and see what people said about it, and what they might have done to compensate for it. Good luck! :-)
Great video....but do you have any with knitting both front and back of a sweater at same time with 2 balls of yarn? I'm unclear where the working yarn should be and when to turn.
Great video. How do you pick up for the sleeves without leaving holes where you cast on for the underarm stitches?
Comment below was from me, Celia Maughan, my husband is not a knitter!
Do you have any tips on how to pick those stitches up from the waste yarn? I'm working on an adult raglan sleeve sweater and I have 71 stitches on waste yarn and can't bring myself to cut the waste yarn to get them off and back onto the needle.
Don't remove the waste yarn until the sts are back on the needle. Use the waste yarn as a guide for the needle path. Once all of the sts are on the needle again, pull out the waste yarn.
Can I ask why you knit the first stitch after removing the stitch marker? I am knitting a pattern that does not tell me to knit that first stitch, and I'm wondering if it is helpful in some way when picking up stitches to knit the sleeves. Thanks for the video!
Can you please do a video on the baby surprise jacket ? I saw a 9 yr old video and it was very confusing to me. Halfway thr. I had to stop.
My 80cm circular knitting needle is full now. How to continue.?i am halfway at arm increases. Plz suggest
Hi Roxanne! Is the backwards loop cast on still your preferred cast on for underarm stitches?
I prefer it, but you can use any CO that requires only one strand of yarn (knitting on or cable CO work, too). When casting on more than a couple of backwards loops, I cast on fewer, and then add in the missing ones on the next row, as m1 increases. This video demonstrates. th-cam.com/video/aMKfwZe1CR8/w-d-xo.html
hi, I am knitting a similar sweater but it has an eyelet pattern between the sleeves and body. The total stitches on the needle are 145 and the instruction says divide for sleeves: Knit 23sts (Front body) and put it on the holder. But now will these 23sts includes include the both the eye hole? Eyelet pattern is yo, k1, yo. Pls help
i have a question: generally when a pattern calls for the additional underarm stitches it also calls for corresponding underarm stitches on the sleeves, too... seems as if there will be a discrepancy (or a gap) when you seem up the sleeve. how does your pattern compensate for that...? thanks!
Hi Roxanne
Your video is very good.Could you plese tell me how many stiches you cast on for a baby and how many for an medium size adult?
Thank you so much!!
Babies and adults come in lots of sizes! Cast on numbers depend not just on size, but on yarn weight, needle size, and the resulting gauge you get with that yarn and those needles. You might want to refer to a written pattern or two, in addition to the measurements you're knitting for. There are lots of patterns on Ravelry (free and otherwise) that you can check out.
Is there a tutorial prior to this one that shows how the beginning is done ? I feel as though I've missed something important.
This video was made as a supplemental reference to a top-down raglan sweater class I taught at my LYS nearly seven years ago. I knew that this point in the project was where knitters new to top-down raglans often got stuck trying to interpret the instructions, and because my students were going to be doing this bit on their own, at home (between classes), I made the video. As you can see by the view count, my six students weren't the only ones who needed help at this point. The only thing you might be missing is a pattern for a top-down raglan sweater. :-)
can u tell me how much u caston in start
very good video plz make more
Thank you!!!
oops! i see that you've already answered that question down below... you're awesome!!!!
Hello !!! Where is part 2, thank you.
I made this video 10 years ago as a between-classes reference video for my students when I was teaching a sweater class at my local yarn shop. There is no part 2.
Did u use a GoPro to film this?
This video is 10 years old. Back then, I would have mounted a digital camera on a tripod and wrapped my arms around to position my hands in front of the lens, and watched myself knit through the view finder.
Slm kaç yaş bu birde ilmek sayısını rica etsem yazarmisin
Por favor. Alguém sabe dizer como poderei traduzir. Já que não sei ingles
Try using the Auto-translate feature for Closed Captions.
Hi I cant seem to find video 1 for this pattern. Can you give me the link?
This video was made years ago as a reference for an in-person class I was teaching, so that when the students went home to work on their projects and got to this point in the pattern, they could see what to do. All the other instruction was done in-person, so there are no other associated videos. If you are working on a specific project/pattern, and you have a question about some part of it, you might want to post your question on Ravelry.
scusate ma non c'e' il primo video ,cioe' proprio dall'inizio grazie
Proč není návod i v ČJ. Není tu nikdo kdo by natočil nebo už je zapomenuto.
Por fis alguien que nos traduzca
Iván Igor López Galeana Löß Pp
where can I find the pattern for this sweater?
+rabiya Lakhani This particular pattern happened to be a Knitting Pure and Simple top-down raglan cardigan sweater for children. The technique shown in this video is the same for nearly all top-down raglan sweaters and is not unique to the pattern. Your local yarn shop or Ravelry.com would be good sources for this type of pattern.
thank you!
I hate this backward cast on! it will get loose!
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Hna Mire
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