Thanks for showing us all the linkage. I’m learning a lot from all you awesome guys that engineer your own systems. Never thought 40” tires looked so good. Bitchin jeep
Hell of a lot of work in a short period of time. Yeah, this project changed several times during the course of the build, LOL. You killed it, Mark!👊🏻 This is ONE XJ that I wouldn't be ashamed to wheel with.😉🤣🤣🤣🤣
Awesome video! You just saved me almost $600. I was originally going to do a Yukon locker for my front Dana 60 I’m currently building. You helped me realized I don’t daily it so no need for one when I have locking hubs.
Not sure if I confused you, but you will still need a spool or welded diff if you want the front locked cheaply. I actually talk about how I ended up not liking my spool in my latest video (how much did the one ton swap cost). I wish I went selectable in the front. With the spool (even with hubs) likes to plow through corners. It's also a pita in tight areas.
@@FMJeeping no I’m aware I Would still need a spool but over a Yukon locker it’s much cheaper. I’ll rock a spool for now as my Jeep never touches asphalt but if I plan to drive it on the street I will upgrade it later. Thanks for the quick reply!
I couldn't imagine trying to build 2 vehicles like this at the same time. I think I would get overwhelmed. Although, I would like to build a YJ. If the right one appears. I might jump on it.
Man everything that you did on your jeep is what I'm wanting to do under my jeep to cheap as I can but work good an ill definitely be watching for how it's doing so keep maken videos on it man
Good stuff man! Lol @ the garage door. I used to have to do the exact same thing to get my YJ in and out of the garage. Disconnect the arm, and push the door up as for as I could, and hold it there.
Cool video, very nice mods. Those hubs will fail more than an air locker will, seen them and the mile marker hub's explode multiple times. But we ride harder trails and send it often.
I'll eventually get slugs If I swap the spool in the front for a selectable locker. The warn hubs are doing ok. Ive had regrease mine a few times, but haven't "failed" yet
@@FMJeeping sweet, I learned something. My XJ has been good to me on long arms and leaf’s with 35’s and a ford 8.8 in the back with a trussed D30 on chromoly axles in front. Rubicon and back 6 times. Thinking it’s time for one tons soon and 37’s with a tube chassis welded up to strengthen the frame over the full length stiffeners i already did
Nice Rig! Is solid axle swapping only needed for rock crawlers? I was thinking of doing this to an overlanding f150 but do you think the factory ifs can handle 37s and extra weight?
It definitely benefits rock crawlers. If you are adding a bunch of weight. I think the tons would handle it better. But I think the ifs should be able handle 37s. It will handle better on road than off. But I'm not an overlander. So definitely do your research.
Curious on your front drive shaft I know it’s been a few years since the video, but did you have angle issues with the double Cardin. Or Did you run the factory drive shaft or the a ford shaft? I have just got my factory ford shaft on my xj im very similar height but my double Cardin is maxed at ride height?
What did you do for the master cylinder on the brakes? I have a very similar setup on my XJ and I have tried the dodge 3500 trick and it still has spongey brakes.... What did you do for yours?
I used the 3500 van master. My brakes lock. Almost too much. I need to install a prop valve. But I'm happy with the brake power on this. For me it was a straight bolt it amzn.to/3rBo8eV
Not sure if this was covered but why didn’t you run coilovers in the front? I’m looking at doing a similar build but doing 37s and it’ll be my daily driver until we can afford a tow rig and trailer 😂
Money and time. I have plans for the front. But I want to get a few seasons on this setup. I will be on coil overs eventually. But for the sake of time and money. I cut this phase of the build short.
@@FMJeeping lol yah I get the price part. Did you have to box the rear mounts into the “frame” of would you have been fine just running them on the side of the frame? Lol sorry lots of questions trying to plan my build.
@@jesseyjulson1967 I have stiffeners front to back. The rear cross member is double plated at the unibody to spread the forces at the mounting points. It's welded to the underside (bottom) of the unibody and the outer side of the unibody rail. The kit I have includes a plate for both sides that is about 6-8 inches wide to help distribute the load on a wider distance.
Thank you. I'm sorry, but I sold the rocklink kit. They make some good stuff. Good luck. Keep an eye out on fb marketplace or on black Friday/cyber Monday. That's when I bought mine.
Sure thing, These are the shock towers I used in the rear . They are from Barnes 4wd and I frenched them into the unibody. I cut them into the unibody about 1.5" iirc. This is where I got mine from www.hiredgunoffroad.com/product/frenched_shock_tower_pair The lower shock mounts I used were from Alpine Peak Precision you can find them here alpinepeakprecision.com/wp/shop/product/shock-mounts-rear-axle/ I mounted them slightly below the axle to help with shock travel and to not get hung up on rocks. Does this help?
I'm using a drop pitman arm I got used. I don't have a lot of information on it, sorry. I wish my turning radius was better, but it works. Until I go full hydro. The vents are from Napier products. They make some great stuff. They also have fender flares as well.
@@FMJeeping thanks man! Really love the build , got a good laugh when u were talking about doing it cheap with factory gears and all that. I had the same goal and ended up going all in 🤣
@@adamswaz4878 lol, you know! You want to save money , but "since I'm in there " takes over and you go down a rabbit hole of money and upgrades. One ton life problems
@@Tylerjschmidt yes. I ran hard line to the cross members for the control arms. I then ran the flex line down the upper control arm down, the truss's to the calipers. It has worked well so far.
I'd like to do 1 tons but Id have to trailer it anywhere I went around where I live, so that's out... Hoping I can build my HP30/C8.25 up enough to not break with 35's-37's 🤞 How much $ do you think you're into this beast??
@@FMJeeping Absolutely! Downside is I hate having vehicles sitting around unused. I have a drag car that hasn't moved for 3 years because they closed our local drag strip. I suppose I should part it out now 😔 But yeah, I'm worried if it's not something I can at least occasionally run a quick errand in locally, it won't get used enough. That's one hell of a build though. I love the look, and the articulation is insane. Great work!
I do. The end game is coil overs. However that might not be for a while. From what I understand, this is a common issue on the Artec truss. Artec just released some coil correction plates for the TJ and I was thinking about picking those up and welding them to the perches on the axle for the time being. However, it might be a combination of the axle being 2" forward of the factory location and I had to mod the perches to get the spring to seat. I've played with the springs a bit, and this was probably the best I got them to sit under load. Coil overs would be the best option as far as I can see.
What fuel cell setup are you running? I noticed you maintained the factory pump. I'm currently doing a rear stretch and wanted to maintain the factory pump if possible. Thanks for any info.
I used the motobilt fuel cell for the TJ. It kept the factory pump and level sender. Only needed to extend the factory wiring 6 -8 inches. I'm probably going to modify the crossbar to move the tank closer to the seat and the wire extension might not be needed. If you have time. Wait for motobilt to have a fuel cell sale. motobilt.com/collections/fuel-cells/products/jeep-tj-lj-aluminum-fuel-cell-15-gallon-package-97-06-wrangler-tj-tj-unlimited
@@FMJeeping yours is a 98 correct? I have a 2001 which doesn't run a return fuel line. It looks like you just have a supply line, vent, and the wiring correct?
Hi buddy…. I have a friend that have a Cherokee XJ and he wants to swap a Dana 60 rear and front, can you recommend any transfer case to use with Dana 60 ? Are you running the factory transfer case np31 with Dana 60 ? Any help I will appreciate it thank you. By the way I like your proyect.
right now I'm running the factory np231. It's holding up pretty well. I'm not super heavy on the throttle. I plan on running the Np231 as long as I can. I've been keeping my eye out for a used Atlas that I can pick up. otherwise. I might just pick up a Midnight Metal Dana 300 box. It's narrower than the Np205 , and weighs way less that the cast 205. Bleepingjeep just did a great video on this box. I am not sold on doublers right now. Hope this helps.
Bro. I messaged you before. I had an IRO offroad kit laying around I was going to install on my last xj but sold it before I got around to it, so was going to use the kit on this xj for the ton swap but from hearing your feedback sounds like I need to make my own. Was it strictly the upper arm binding? Or also a combination of the axle side rubber bushings as well? Do I need to send the kit back or what?
It was a little bit of everything. The upper arm from them was not in a good spot. It was hitting the drive shaft. The lowers will work, but I was not comfortable with how it went together with my brackets. The angle on the arms did not line up on the axle well.
@@FMJeeping gotcha I think that makes my decision easier. Really liked the 3 piece crossmember though, maybe I’ll run that and send arms back lol are you on any forums? I’m not new to keep fab and building but this is a huge project and I need and outlet to bounce ideas around and such. Pirate seems dead and other forums guys seem only want to talk about mild not wild stuff. Feedback appreciated btw bro
Ugh... The music and it's volume combined. Next time maybe a lot less of it pretty please. Sorry to complain but holy cow lol. Such a nice Jeep build I'm definitely going to start following along.
@@FMJeeping was the iron rock offroad 3 link kit you had the true 3 link or the y link version and if you had the true 3 link kit is it possible to run a dana 60 with that kit with some modifications or will I have to switch to a different set up?
@@freeridefilms7254 it was the true 3 link kit. You could run it. My suggestion is angle the lower control arm brackets to match the angle of the control arms. The iro kit is nice because it bends the arms to avoid to unibody. But the bends position the axle side brackets awkwardly. I got it to fit, just a little too much bind for my liking. The upper. You could fab your own arm or if you haven't bought the kit yet. Maybe ask for a low pinion Dana 30 arm or even an unfinished arm that is straight. Iirc, a straight arm "should" fit.
@@FMJeeping well that's sucks so at the beginning of sring I was open dif 3 inch lift with 31s and just this past week I've put a 3 link long arm with 6.5 lift and 35s and now I'm having axle problems so I'm looking to go tons and 40s but I'm also a kid and don't have the budget to go out and buy the whole new side Plate kit you have
@@freeridefilms7254 it might be worth it to try and run another d30 until you can figure something out. You can truss them pretty cheaply and a HP d30 can be found pretty easily now and fairly cheaply.
That steering geometry is fantastic! Definitely jeep goals..
Thanks Jesse.
Thanks for showing us all the linkage. I’m learning a lot from all you awesome guys that engineer your own systems. Never thought 40” tires looked so good. Bitchin jeep
Thank you . Glad I could help.
Man that thing is absolutely beautiful,hell of a job on that swap
Thank you !
I’m building virtually the exact same jeep you are only I’m doing a 5.3 LS swap. Learning a lot watching your channel
That's awesome. I would love to do an LS swap someday. Im most likely going to be building another motor on the channel. Thank you for watching !!
Awesome build!
Thanks for taking the time to present it all.
Thank you!!
I am currently building almost exact same jeep you are only with an LS 5.3 swap. Learning a lot watching your channel
Hell of a lot of work in a short period of time. Yeah, this project changed several times during the course of the build, LOL. You killed it, Mark!👊🏻 This is ONE XJ that I wouldn't be ashamed to wheel with.😉🤣🤣🤣🤣
Lol. Thanks Clint! I would hope you would wheel with me.
Awesome video! You just saved me almost $600. I was originally going to do a Yukon locker for my front Dana 60 I’m currently building. You helped me realized I don’t daily it so no need for one when I have locking hubs.
Not sure if I confused you, but you will still need a spool or welded diff if you want the front locked cheaply. I actually talk about how I ended up not liking my spool in my latest video (how much did the one ton swap cost). I wish I went selectable in the front. With the spool (even with hubs) likes to plow through corners. It's also a pita in tight areas.
@@FMJeeping no I’m aware I Would still need a spool but over a Yukon locker it’s much cheaper. I’ll rock a spool for now as my Jeep never touches asphalt but if I plan to drive it on the street I will upgrade it later. Thanks for the quick reply!
@@jcfabworks5418 ok cool. Just had to be sure. 👍
Very nice. If only I would stick to one project. I could do my 91 YJ like that.
I couldn't imagine trying to build 2 vehicles like this at the same time. I think I would get overwhelmed. Although, I would like to build a YJ. If the right one appears. I might jump on it.
No
I have a 1954 Chevy truck. AKA O'l Beater. Started life as a 3/4 ton. It donated its SM420 transmission to my Jeep
Man everything that you did on your jeep is what I'm wanting to do under my jeep to cheap as I can but work good an ill definitely be watching for how it's doing so keep maken videos on it man
Thank you, I will try and keep them coming.
Beautiful xj , someday l want my Zj like your xj really awesome
Thank you!!! You can build your zj. I started out with basic fab knowledge and was able to work my way up to the bigger projects.
Awesome job Mark!You did a lot of work to that baby.....👍👍👊
Thanks Dan!!
Good stuff man! Lol @ the garage door. I used to have to do the exact same thing to get my YJ in and out of the garage. Disconnect the arm, and push the door up as for as I could, and hold it there.
Hahaha. Exactly. If that is the worst of it. Then it's not so bad.
Super jealous man that thing is badass can’t wait to see it in person. I got a long way to go on mine still
You got this man. I was able to work during the winter months. You can do it!
Super bad @ss! What a great build! Awesome job Mark!
Thank you Bug!.
Cool video, very nice mods. Those hubs will fail more than an air locker will, seen them and the mile marker hub's explode multiple times. But we ride harder trails and send it often.
I'll eventually get slugs If I swap the spool in the front for a selectable locker. The warn hubs are doing ok. Ive had regrease mine a few times, but haven't "failed" yet
What a monster!
Thank you !
Thats a badass jeep, and you did an awesome job.
Thank you very much
Very informative video- good job
Thanks!!
Awsome build!
Thank you !
Nice work!
Thank you!
One bad build awesome
Thank you !
Any motor upgrades beside the axles and gearing ? Looks amazing nice rig !!!
@@compajuansinpiedad6646 Gibson header, spectre cowl intake, optimized throttle body. Thats about it
Nice!
Thanks
Loving it. Good inspiration for my XJ builds next level. Curious about the rear axle though, I notice you don’t have a trac bar? Is that not needed?
Not with the four link I ran. It's a triangulated 4 , so no tracbar is needed. If it was parallel links. Then yes. I would need a tracbar
@@FMJeeping sweet, I learned something. My XJ has been good to me on long arms and leaf’s with 35’s and a ford 8.8 in the back with a trussed D30 on chromoly axles in front. Rubicon and back 6 times. Thinking it’s time for one tons soon and 37’s with a tube chassis welded up to strengthen the frame over the full length stiffeners i already did
Nice Rig! Is solid axle swapping only needed for rock crawlers? I was thinking of doing this to an overlanding f150 but do you think the factory ifs can handle 37s and extra weight?
It definitely benefits rock crawlers. If you are adding a bunch of weight. I think the tons would handle it better. But I think the ifs should be able handle 37s. It will handle better on road than off. But I'm not an overlander. So definitely do your research.
@@FMJeeping thanks for the advice
Daaaaaaaaaaaaaaayyyyuuummm!!!🔥🔥🔥🤘🏻🇺🇸🇺🇸
Thanks Joe!
MA Bell trail is still open? I did it probably over a decade ago. Didn't think it was open anymore.
Yup still open. Everything is washed out and rutted out , so most of the obstacles are bigger than they used to be.
@@FMJeeping Good to know, have to finish a truck build then I'm going back.
Curious on your front drive shaft I know it’s been a few years since the video, but did you have angle issues with the double Cardin. Or Did you run the factory drive shaft or the a ford shaft? I have just got my factory ford shaft on my xj im very similar height but my double Cardin is maxed at ride height?
@@dawsynfroese5710 3 years and same shafts . They have been fine.
What did you go with artec truss over the barnes truss on the sd60
Better deal on black Friday. Only real reason
What did you do for the master cylinder on the brakes? I have a very similar setup on my XJ and I have tried the dodge 3500 trick and it still has spongey brakes.... What did you do for yours?
I used the 3500 van master. My brakes lock. Almost too much. I need to install a prop valve. But I'm happy with the brake power on this. For me it was a straight bolt it
amzn.to/3rBo8eV
FAB-ulous😆
Not sure if this was covered but why didn’t you run coilovers in the front? I’m looking at doing a similar build but doing 37s and it’ll be my daily driver until we can afford a tow rig and trailer 😂
Money and time. I have plans for the front. But I want to get a few seasons on this setup. I will be on coil overs eventually. But for the sake of time and money. I cut this phase of the build short.
@@FMJeeping lol yah I get the price part. Did you have to box the rear mounts into the “frame” of would you have been fine just running them on the side of the frame? Lol sorry lots of questions trying to plan my build.
@@jesseyjulson1967 I have stiffeners front to back. The rear cross member is double plated at the unibody to spread the forces at the mounting points. It's welded to the underside (bottom) of the unibody and the outer side of the unibody rail. The kit I have includes a plate for both sides that is about 6-8 inches wide to help distribute the load on a wider distance.
Prince George valley ?
Connecticut
Awesome jeep. Do you have the old rock link kit still? We’ve been looking at the ironrock stuff for my daughters Jeep.
Thank you. I'm sorry, but I sold the rocklink kit. They make some good stuff. Good luck. Keep an eye out on fb marketplace or on black Friday/cyber Monday. That's when I bought mine.
Can you share some more info on the rear shock mounts?
Sure thing,
These are the shock towers I used in the rear . They are from Barnes 4wd and I frenched them into the unibody. I cut them into the unibody about 1.5" iirc.
This is where I got mine from
www.hiredgunoffroad.com/product/frenched_shock_tower_pair
The lower shock mounts I used were from Alpine Peak Precision
you can find them here
alpinepeakprecision.com/wp/shop/product/shock-mounts-rear-axle/
I mounted them slightly below the axle to help with shock travel and to not get hung up on rocks.
Does this help?
Which pitman arm are you running? I notice on mine I don't get a very good turn radius . Also What hood vents are those I love them!
I'm using a drop pitman arm I got used. I don't have a lot of information on it, sorry. I wish my turning radius was better, but it works. Until I go full hydro.
The vents are from Napier products. They make some great stuff. They also have fender flares as well.
@@FMJeeping thanks man! Really love the build , got a good laugh when u were talking about doing it cheap with factory gears and all that. I had the same goal and ended up going all in 🤣
@@adamswaz4878 lol, you know! You want to save money , but "since I'm in there " takes over and you go down a rabbit hole of money and upgrades. One ton life problems
How’s it drive with no sway bars
It has a good amount of body roll. I drove it 2 hours to NH with little issue. I put the coil overs on the stiffest setting. Seems to do the trick.
What size brake lines where on the stock tons? I'm in the process of doing a swap and trying to figure out how to adapt my brake lines.
Iirc the factory ford at the caliper banjo bolt is 3/8. I used -3an stainless steel flex line and factory xj sized line. 3/16th iirc.
@@FMJeeping Is that front and back?
@@Tylerjschmidt yes. I ran hard line to the cross members for the control arms. I then ran the flex line down the upper control arm down, the truss's to the calipers. It has worked well so far.
Did you also do frame stiffeners?
Yes. Iro front to back.
How big of a trailer do you use to haul this jeep?
I'd like to do 1 tons but Id have to trailer it anywhere I went around where I live, so that's out...
Hoping I can build my HP30/C8.25 up enough to not break with 35's-37's 🤞
How much $ do you think you're into this beast??
I hear that. I like the idea of trailering because you can push harder on the trails.
A well built D30 should be able to handle 37s.
@@FMJeeping Absolutely! Downside is I hate having vehicles sitting around unused. I have a drag car that hasn't moved for 3 years because they closed our local drag strip. I suppose I should part it out now 😔
But yeah, I'm worried if it's not something I can at least occasionally run a quick errand in locally, it won't get used enough.
That's one hell of a build though. I love the look, and the articulation is insane. Great work!
sick build! i noticed that the coil springs in the front are a little bent i have the same problem, do you have a solution in mind?
I do. The end game is coil overs. However that might not be for a while. From what I understand, this is a common issue on the Artec truss. Artec just released some coil correction plates for the TJ and I was thinking about picking those up and welding them to the perches on the axle for the time being. However, it might be a combination of the axle being 2" forward of the factory location and I had to mod the perches to get the spring to seat. I've played with the springs a bit, and this was probably the best I got them to sit under load. Coil overs would be the best option as far as I can see.
What fuel cell setup are you running? I noticed you maintained the factory pump. I'm currently doing a rear stretch and wanted to maintain the factory pump if possible. Thanks for any info.
I used the motobilt fuel cell for the TJ. It kept the factory pump and level sender. Only needed to extend the factory wiring 6 -8 inches. I'm probably going to modify the crossbar to move the tank closer to the seat and the wire extension might not be needed. If you have time. Wait for motobilt to have a fuel cell sale.
motobilt.com/collections/fuel-cells/products/jeep-tj-lj-aluminum-fuel-cell-15-gallon-package-97-06-wrangler-tj-tj-unlimited
@@FMJeeping yours is a 98 correct? I have a 2001 which doesn't run a return fuel line. It looks like you just have a supply line, vent, and the wiring correct?
Hi buddy…. I have a friend that have a Cherokee XJ and he wants to swap a Dana 60 rear and front, can you recommend any transfer case to use with Dana 60 ? Are you running the factory transfer case np31 with Dana 60 ? Any help I will appreciate it thank you.
By the way I like your proyect.
right now I'm running the factory np231. It's holding up pretty well. I'm not super heavy on the throttle. I plan on running the Np231 as long as I can. I've been keeping my eye out for a used Atlas that I can pick up. otherwise. I might just pick up a Midnight Metal Dana 300 box. It's narrower than the Np205 , and weighs way less that the cast 205. Bleepingjeep just did a great video on this box. I am not sold on doublers right now. Hope this helps.
Thank you for your help my friend. Are you living in CT?
@@javierarauz2992 yes. I live in CT
Bro. I messaged you before. I had an IRO offroad kit laying around I was going to install on my last xj but sold it before I got around to it, so was going to use the kit on this xj for the ton swap but from hearing your feedback sounds like I need to make my own. Was it strictly the upper arm binding? Or also a combination of the axle side rubber bushings as well? Do I need to send the kit back or what?
It was a little bit of everything. The upper arm from them was not in a good spot. It was hitting the drive shaft. The lowers will work, but I was not comfortable with how it went together with my brackets. The angle on the arms did not line up on the axle well.
@@FMJeeping gotcha I think that makes my decision easier. Really liked the 3 piece crossmember though, maybe I’ll run that and send arms back lol are you on any forums? I’m not new to keep fab and building but this is a huge project and I need and outlet to bounce ideas around and such. Pirate seems dead and other forums guys seem only want to talk about mild not wild stuff. Feedback appreciated btw bro
@@terminatorx5836 I'm on roxjox hardcore xjs on FB. Good group over there.
I also have FM Jeeping on FB as well
@@FMJeeping I’ll look into these. Thanks buddy I appreciate ya. Sick build!
So what was the final wheelbase you got out of it?
112.5"
What is your wheelbase now?
About 113.5"
What offset wheels did you go with
I believe I ordered 3.5 BS or -38 offset
Ugh... The music and it's volume combined. Next time maybe a lot less of it pretty please. Sorry to complain but holy cow lol. Such a nice Jeep build I'm definitely going to start following along.
Thanks for the feedback. Ill rewatch the video and see where I could cut back on the music.
Roughly how much suspension lift do you have?
I figure about 8"
@@FMJeeping was the iron rock offroad 3 link kit you had the true 3 link or the y link version and if you had the true 3 link kit is it possible to run a dana 60 with that kit with some modifications or will I have to switch to a different set up?
@@freeridefilms7254 it was the true 3 link kit. You could run it. My suggestion is angle the lower control arm brackets to match the angle of the control arms. The iro kit is nice because it bends the arms to avoid to unibody. But the bends position the axle side brackets awkwardly. I got it to fit, just a little too much bind for my liking. The upper. You could fab your own arm or if you haven't bought the kit yet. Maybe ask for a low pinion Dana 30 arm or even an unfinished arm that is straight. Iirc, a straight arm "should" fit.
@@FMJeeping well that's sucks so at the beginning of sring I was open dif 3 inch lift with 31s and just this past week I've put a 3 link long arm with 6.5 lift and 35s and now I'm having axle problems so I'm looking to go tons and 40s but I'm also a kid and don't have the budget to go out and buy the whole new side Plate kit you have
@@freeridefilms7254 it might be worth it to try and run another d30 until you can figure something out. You can truss them pretty cheaply and a HP d30 can be found pretty easily now and fairly cheaply.
America 🇺🇸💪🏼🤙🏼🔧🔩
Do you have frame stiffeners I couldn’t tell if you did or not?
Yes. I have Iron rock offroad stiffeners
Did you run an 10" hydro assist ram or 8" .
8" throw 1.5 rod.
@@FMJeeping do you get a full turn radius with that? I have 8" as well and it's my limiting factor.
@@adamswaz4878 yes. The steering box is limiting factor. The only way to get more for me would be go full hydro. I'm not ready yet.
@@FMJeeping gotcha. I have the stock box and can get full radius with a wagoneer 2" drop pitman arm just need a 10" hydro assist . Merry Christmas 🎄
@@adamswaz4878 I might look into the waggy drop arm.