Great video! In truth it is over my head (no pun intended) but you know I forwarded it to my son. I always do when it comes to your maintenance videos. He just loves your videos!
I just posted comments about this on another one of your videos! Duh, I'll explain later. Love these DYI videos. I can't say enough about them or maybe I've already said everything and I don't want to bore you with, yes! LOVED THIS!!LOL 😍! Take Care! 🙏🙏❤️❤️🇺🇸⛵️🤙👍
Great video Harry, have you tried making one end slice and attaching to the mast head before measuring overall length and making the lower splice at the turnbuckle by applying tension with a rolling hitch from a spare piece of line. the splice length is a min length so it wouldn't be crucial as long as its slightly longer as it could be hidden in the sleeve or be trimmed with little waste after it's exited from the sleeve. Could make multiple shroud stays and attach aloft at the same time by setting up temp shrouds with a jury knot and have someone below anchoring the lower tie points. I'm knot picking your work, just thinking of an alternative way to make it easier whilst working aloft.
I thought about doing it that way, but the problem is the constructional shrinkage is impossible to account for and the constructional stretch is more than a hitch knot can grip to pull out. You need to measure everything before you make any splices on either end or you will have no idea what the length will end up as. Now, you can make the four lowers at once and install all of them in one trip aloft, then install the cap shrouds on a second trip aloft.
Good stuff. I really enjoy your videos Herbie. Hope to run into you guys someday on the Chesapeake. We sail from Annapolis most weekends during the boating season. My wife and I are hoping to go full time cruising next year.
EZPZ I like to just be a able to work fast without needing to stop and think. Knowing that it's relatively easy to correct for a small margin of error really helps. I'll just to do it exactly you like demonstrated. Thanks 👍
I normally buy it from West Marine, but you can also buy it from online sellers. Just make sure it’s name brand (New England Ropes or Samson) and not a cheap knockoff.
It lasts a little over a month (of constantly being loaded). If you adjust it once a month when you notice it’s incredibly slack, then it will take much longer to sort through. You will know it’s done because it holds its tension and doesn’t go slack on you.
That is the best of both worlds but you wouldn’t be saving on the turnbuckle part. If you are doing turnbuckles, the combination is the best way to go.
Our boats are about the same size and weight..both keel stepped. How thick is your rigging? I was thinking 1/2 inch would do? Do you have a preferred supplier of Dyneema?
Yes, they lay flat and are able to pass over a block, but they are also a little bulkier so that could present a problem if it’s a tight fit. The splice is stiffer too so it shouldn’t rest on the block while under load. It can pass through a block on a repair, but it’s not the ideal.
I know. I have seen “no chafe sleeve and bronze hanks” and it really wasn’t that bad after a year of cruising. I just like to build it bullet proof so that it can handle the abuse of the ocean.
Please Help! Hi guys it's been a while I've been working on my own boat. I need a little help please. I'm trying to budget and I need a rough idea of how many spools of dyneema that I'm going to need for this girl. I have a CheoyLee 32 off shore. I'm a retired commercial fisherman ... that said this is my first sailboat and I've never done rigging so my question is two parts roughly how much am I going to need to spend in order to replace the rig and roughly how much dyneema and in what sizes?
I just finished redoing the rigging in dyneema sk78 on my cross 37 trimaran on the cheap. I bought 30m sk78 10mm dyneema winch 4wd lines as they come with chafe sleeves x5 of them. I think they were about $50 Aud each from eBay. Got 60m of 4mm sk78 dyneema for the dead eye lashings and 60m of 2mm for the frapping knots. Budget was about $1000 aud. Need thimbles and solid thimbles for the dead eyes. Need to think about mast attachment fittings aswell.
He pretty much covered it. A single 600’ spool of heat set Dyneema will be all you will need, and the remainder of the spool can be kept as spare or for repairs should chafe occur. If you need more specific help, you can always email me at riggingdr@gmail.com
Hey, so I take it by this video that there are no issues running a hank on storm gib on a Dyneema inner forestay? I have not been able to find much online about hanks and chafe and all that. What about Dyneema and roller furlers for headsails? Is that still a no go, or are we getting to the point where that will be possible?
The bronze Hanks are swapped out for soft Hanks, then it’s no problem. For furlers, it’s still a no go but I’m going to test some ideas and see how they work out
@@RiggingDoctor Sorry I should have watched the next two videos and answered by own question. Thanks for the quick reply. I'm due to replace the rigging on my 2005 Benenteau 523 and considering synthetic. What are your thoughts on a 52 foot 18ton boat using dyneema vs steel? We currently have 8mm D2's, 10mm twin back stays, 12mm D1s and upper caps and 14mm lower caps. I'm yet to measure the forestay.
Death 💀 The Dyneema will begin to creep wildly until the strands rupture from creep. For SK-78, it usually occurs after it has creeped about 30% of its original length.
It depends on the load percentage that the stay is put under. Ours is on the smaller size and mathematically should be dying somewhere between 15 and 20 years of age. We are the test boat with it though so we will find out when it actually does die.
Measuring your stays under tension, makes no sense. Since the replacement will not be made under tension and will presumably stretch by the same ammount when loaded.
If you measure while they are relaxed, they will not be straight and you will come up a little short. It might not make sense right now but from experience, you need to make them under tension when you measure them.
![DYNEEMA [Part 3]: How to Splice Your Stay | Sailing Wisdom](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/DGYu82M-xoA/mqdefault.jpg)
![DYNEEMA [Part 3]: How to Splice Your Stay | Sailing Wisdom](/img/tr.png)
Great video! In truth it is over my head (no pun intended) but you know I forwarded it to my son. I always do when it comes to your maintenance videos. He just loves your videos!
Thanks :)
Awesome, Herbie! You've done it again. Thank you. 👍👍👍
Thanks!
I just posted comments about this on another one of your videos! Duh, I'll explain later.
Love these DYI videos. I can't say enough about them or maybe I've already said everything and I don't want to bore you with, yes! LOVED THIS!!LOL 😍! Take Care! 🙏🙏❤️❤️🇺🇸⛵️🤙👍
:)
Thanks for the lesson Herbie.
👍
Great video Harry,
have you tried making one end slice and attaching to the mast head before measuring overall length and making the lower splice at the turnbuckle by applying tension with a rolling hitch from a spare piece of line. the splice length is a min length so it wouldn't be crucial as long as its slightly longer as it could be hidden in the sleeve or be trimmed with little waste after it's exited from the sleeve. Could make multiple shroud stays and attach aloft at the same time by setting up temp shrouds with a jury knot and have someone below anchoring the lower tie points.
I'm knot picking your work, just thinking of an alternative way to make it easier whilst working aloft.
I thought about doing it that way, but the problem is the constructional shrinkage is impossible to account for and the constructional stretch is more than a hitch knot can grip to pull out. You need to measure everything before you make any splices on either end or you will have no idea what the length will end up as.
Now, you can make the four lowers at once and install all of them in one trip aloft, then install the cap shrouds on a second trip aloft.
Thanks again Herbie, always learning from ya.
😎
As always , thanks guys!
Very Detailed !!!! Awesome !!!!
Thank you!
Good stuff. I really enjoy your videos Herbie. Hope to run into you guys someday on the Chesapeake. We sail from Annapolis most weekends during the boating season. My wife and I are hoping to go full time cruising next year.
We will be there this summer!
EZPZ I like to just be a able to work fast without needing to stop and think. Knowing that it's relatively easy to correct for a small margin of error really helps. I'll just to do it exactly you like demonstrated. Thanks 👍
The point that it comed up a foot short is priceless.
DM20 creeps much less so you need to work on getting all the stretch out so that everything comes out perfectly
@@RiggingDoctor I wonder which properties of DM20 are responsible for this difference?
I just see your faces, guys, and my mood improves. I hope to see you someday. we miss you so much.
Where are you guys now? You need to bring your ferro-cement boat across the ocean 😎
@@RiggingDoctoracross the onean... hmm witch way? :) we are on Dominican Republic now, and you?
Wonderful video, a great help. What size Dyneema did you use for all your rigging Harry?
I used 9mm for our application.
Thanks for the great tutorial. Where do you buy the Dyneema?
I normally buy it from West Marine, but you can also buy it from online sellers. Just make sure it’s name brand (New England Ropes or Samson) and not a cheap knockoff.
What do you think about using anti friction rings on the head stay so you can attach the hanks to them
I’ve never thought about that but that’s a really good idea! Kind of like the wooden hoops on a gaffer’s mast.
@@RiggingDoctor yeah kinda of. It would be a lot of them but would protect the stay from Chafe more so than the sleeve over it.
So how long does phase one last, and under what conditions is that variable, and how can one be confident that it's finished?
It lasts a little over a month (of constantly being loaded). If you adjust it once a month when you notice it’s incredibly slack, then it will take much longer to sort through.
You will know it’s done because it holds its tension and doesn’t go slack on you.
How about turnbuckle and lashing, I dont have to worry about it so much.
That is the best of both worlds but you wouldn’t be saving on the turnbuckle part. If you are doing turnbuckles, the combination is the best way to go.
Herbie, where do you source your 600' rolls of dyneema?
I order them from West Marine. They have a nice discount on them when you buy the full spool 😉
Our boats are about the same size and weight..both keel stepped. How thick is your rigging? I was thinking 1/2 inch would do? Do you have a preferred supplier of Dyneema?
1/2 is plenty, I used 9mm which is about 3/8”
@@RiggingDoctor awsome, no point in paying more than I need to 😉
Just wondering can you get a splice through a block? Like for replacing a halyard.
Yes, they lay flat and are able to pass over a block, but they are also a little bulkier so that could present a problem if it’s a tight fit. The splice is stiffer too so it shouldn’t rest on the block while under load.
It can pass through a block on a repair, but it’s not the ideal.
The choice of no chafe jacket even using soft hanks? I hear various attitudes.
I know. I have seen “no chafe sleeve and bronze hanks” and it really wasn’t that bad after a year of cruising. I just like to build it bullet proof so that it can handle the abuse of the ocean.
🤣!! ..."when you think you're perfect, that's when you're going to screw up !..."
Check your work so that you can find all of your mistakes and correct them ;)
Please Help!
Hi guys it's been a while I've been working on my own boat. I need a little help please. I'm trying to budget and I need a rough idea of how many spools of dyneema that I'm going to need for this girl. I have a CheoyLee 32 off shore.
I'm a retired commercial fisherman ... that said this is my first sailboat and I've never done rigging so my question is two parts roughly how much am I going to need to spend in order to replace the rig and roughly how much dyneema and in what sizes?
I just finished redoing the rigging in dyneema sk78 on my cross 37 trimaran on the cheap. I bought 30m sk78 10mm dyneema winch 4wd lines as they come with chafe sleeves x5 of them. I think they were about $50 Aud each from eBay. Got 60m of 4mm sk78 dyneema for the dead eye lashings and 60m of 2mm for the frapping knots. Budget was about $1000 aud. Need thimbles and solid thimbles for the dead eyes. Need to think about mast attachment fittings aswell.
He pretty much covered it. A single 600’ spool of heat set Dyneema will be all you will need, and the remainder of the spool can be kept as spare or for repairs should chafe occur.
If you need more specific help, you can always email me at riggingdr@gmail.com
Hey, so I take it by this video that there are no issues running a hank on storm gib on a Dyneema inner forestay? I have not been able to find much online about hanks and chafe and all that.
What about Dyneema and roller furlers for headsails? Is that still a no go, or are we getting to the point where that will be possible?
The bronze Hanks are swapped out for soft Hanks, then it’s no problem.
For furlers, it’s still a no go but I’m going to test some ideas and see how they work out
@@RiggingDoctor Sorry I should have watched the next two videos and answered by own question. Thanks for the quick reply.
I'm due to replace the rigging on my 2005 Benenteau 523 and considering synthetic. What are your thoughts on a 52 foot 18ton boat using dyneema vs steel? We currently have 8mm D2's, 10mm twin back stays, 12mm D1s and upper caps and 14mm lower caps. I'm yet to measure the forestay.
What is the 3rd phase of Dyneema - you never said!
Death 💀
The Dyneema will begin to creep wildly until the strands rupture from creep.
For SK-78, it usually occurs after it has creeped about 30% of its original length.
When is that likely to happen? Years?
It depends on the load percentage that the stay is put under. Ours is on the smaller size and mathematically should be dying somewhere between 15 and 20 years of age. We are the test boat with it though so we will find out when it actually does die.
@@RiggingDoctor Good Morning
@@RiggingDoctor Or night as the case may be! LOL
👍!!!
:)
Measuring your stays under tension, makes no sense. Since the replacement will not be made under tension and will presumably stretch by the same ammount when loaded.
If you measure while they are relaxed, they will not be straight and you will come up a little short. It might not make sense right now but from experience, you need to make them under tension when you measure them.