Repairing Synthetic Lifelines with Locked End to End Splice | Sailing Wisdom
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 ธ.ค. 2021
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Dyneema Lifelines are super strong, light weight, and can't corrode! The only problem with synthetic lifelines is chafe.
Steel lifelines are the old standard but there is no way to repair them when they start to develop problems. That is yet another advantage of synthetic lifelines: if they get damaged, you won't need to replace the whole lifeline, all you need to do is repair the small affected area!
In this video, I will show you how to properly repair synthetic lifelines using an End to End Locking Splice to restore the strength and peace of mind that comes from Dyneema Lifelines.
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I changed to Dyneema lifelines a couple of years ago and really love it. I have heat shrink where it passes through stanchions but that does move. I hadn’t thought of being able to repair with a simple end for end splice so great and helpful video, thanks. Andy UK
Everything on our boat can be repaired to allow us to keep cruising!
The instructional segments that honor your channel name are gems.
Thank you!
Thanks for the splicing info! Needed this😁💎✨
Mesmerizingly enjoyable to watch !
Thanks!
Very simple and detailed. Hope your both enjoying home anchorage.
It’s good to be back in US waters!
Good job, Herby! Good info lots of sailors can use. Thanks for sharing!👍👍👍
Glad you liked it!
Great video! This will take a bit of practice on my end but your explanation was spot on. Loved it!!
Thanks!
Thanks for the splicing tutorial! Needed this😁💎✨
Glad it helped :)
Thanx. Good stuff.
You are welcome :)
LOL, you've become like 20 times more badass since your earlier vids.
Thank you :)
Nice I'm going to use that for sure
Great haircut. And tutorial.
Thanks!
OK, I'm sold. Dyneema for me. I think I understand all the major pros and cons now after your series. Thanks.
That’s awesome!!!
Thanks, Doc
Anytime!
Ah, a traveling man I see. Mansfield, TX 331 here. Thank you for the instruction brother.
Anytime! I’m from Palestine 189, Catonsville MD
We switched all our life lines to dinema about 2 years ago.. We like it!
👍
My favorite kind....so yes, I watched it again, for you and me. 🙏🙏❤❤🇺🇸⛵⚓
Yay Melinda! Thanks for watching!
Useful episode! The end to end splice comes in handy! I’m thinking about spraying my gods with some Teflon to help make them pass easier.
There was some autocorrect action in that comment or you are talking about something very different 🤣
Let me know how it works for you!
@@RiggingDoctor gods=fids. Lol
Cool haircut😃
Thanks!
I have been watching you guys for a while and never realized we belonged to the same fraternity. A Traveling Man that is a traveling man. 😆
And I even traveled to the East!
I’m from Palestine 189 in Catonsville MD
@@RiggingDoctor I have not traveled to the East yet, but I was Secretary for a little while. Somerville 721, Somerville, AL.
Love when you share your experience, lot of good suggestions and innovations! Good way to “refurbish” the lifeline without completely changing them. I’d like to make a couple of questions if possible: as you said it’s important to end the splice prior the stanchion otherwise the thickness wouldn’t pass into it, did you ever consider the possibility in case (touch wood it will never happen) of distress you need to cut the “fuse” smaller line at the aft or pulpit so that you can drop the entire life line? That’s something I’ve been taught about at ISAF courses to facilitate MOB rescue, may be you’ve different approach or routines about this. (I hope to have explained quite well the concept) The other question is: Did you ever consider / is it possible to thicken the area of the life line passing through the stanchion by splicing a cover over it? Thanks again for all these vids, they’re inspirational and teach a lot both from the practical point of view and also to the good philosophy that things can live longer without being trashed away at the first sign of using.
We have the lashings at the stern pulpit so we can clear the entire area next to the cockpit for recovery. No cutting needed, just release one knot!
The section from the stanchion to the gate might not lower anymore, but then there is the gate to pull someone through.
As for chafe covers, the lifelines were installed in 2015 and have had minimal chafe. This one spot got damaged by the windvane control lines. Otherwise it’s not a big issue and chafe covers are just added cost.
Love your synthetic rigging videos. So what about a different approach to the life line? I am imagining running the actual life line outside of the stanchion hole and running a sacrificial piece of dyneema inside. The two would be spliced (maybe not a locked splice) in parallel (in other words the sacrificial piece would have both ends hidden inside the life line) and some 1/8" dyneema could be used for whipping on each side of the stanchion hole. Or maybe I am overthinking this as dyneema is not super expensive and maybe just replacing parts as you have done is the time-economical thing to do.
It has been working fine with minimal chafe since 2015. The only reason this one got chewed up is the windvane lines pulled on it.
FWIW, the bury 72 times the diameter regardless of unit. It's the same length whether it's hands, fathoms or feet. How "72" became the magic ratio would be interesting.
That is an excellent point!
6mm *72 = 432mm = 17in
0.236in *72 = 17in
According to tests done by the manufacturer, less than 72 and it can slip under sever loading.
@@RiggingDoctor It does make one wonder if they tried 68 times the width, 76 times the length....to arrive at that.
I've been fiddling with variations of Dyneema "slings" to arrive at adjustable stays for my 6m trailer-sailer trimaran, but I have yet to find a bury length that will fully lock with that much tension. It would be great to avoid the extra metal hardware. Most of mine is just the 7/64- 1/8 inch variety as that's well beyond my WLL requirements.
Great video, you may want to use closed thimbles iso open ones to prevent cutting into Dyneema loops at endings. :-)
Indeed, they are just more expensive and we are on a tight budget. Keeping an eye on the thimbles, they have worked out so far for 7 years now.
Allright….just watch them, otherwise you get a ‘penny wise pound foolish’ scenario….. cheers! Check my videos, you may like m.
This would have been much better with some Snake Jazz background
Lol thanks for the feedback
🙂😎🤣..."Snake Jazz"..Yeah ! ♥️
Thanks for this guys. Hope all goes good. Maybe I’ll get a raise and join up again. Still following along, though.
Cheers
Good to hear from you, James!
Good to hear from you, James!
Advocating dyneema lifelines in a video about repairing a chafed lifeline is bold ;-). The best lifeline we had, was actually a used upper shroud (6 or 7 mm) from the trash. We had it for over 38 000 miles with zero issue and pretty much no sign of any wear also. Ours even came with free turnbuckles on one end and swageless terminals on the other.
So, if you change your standing rigging to dyneema, do not throw your shrouds away, use them as lifeline. The forces as a lifeline are way smaller than as standing rigging, so even a trash-picked one will last aeons. We hung our solar panels from our shrouds with negligible wear (stainless steel strands looked polished) over 8 years.
That’s an excellent way to reuse old rigging and save some money while cruising!
The reason I like dyneema for lifelines is because you can repair it should the need arises. We only had two issues, this one and a spot where a bicycle pedal chafed the lifeline (that repair is next week). If they were steel and got damaged, I wouldn’t be able to repair it.
@@RiggingDoctor Half agreed!
With steel lifelines you are not completely helpless. You probably should have a couple of U-bolt cable clamps in your repair locker to make an eye on both of your damaged ends. If you lack those you could still make an eye splice in a steel cable, but this is usually a very painful experience depending on the sturdiness of your gloves :-). Once you have eyes at the ends you can do some lashings. This BTW might also be an improvised repair for steel standing rigging depending on the type of damage.
You are a Dyneema Wyzard, Herb. Noice.
Thanks :)
OK. Now I think that you need the 'wisdom' of the Safety Doctor; He tells me: "Check your manufacturer's splicing guidelines."
I think for Dyneema (a brand name for HMPE ) the requirement for splicing is to bury 3 fid lengths (fid = 21 times diameter, using whatever runits you bought the line in) with one fid-length tapered (and 2 not tapered). [ I presume longer bury or longer taper is OK too] This amount of taper is needed to avoid a drastic change which would cause more stress and a potential failure point.
Also, you can get either polyester or HDPE covers for various size lines to help with chafe.
The reference for the sport of yacht (sailboat) racing is the World Sailing Offshore Special Regulations. They allow fastening with a lashing as you are using, but require that it span no more than 4 inches. You need not lash it quite so tightly as you did, as the regulations specify an allowed sag of 2" (yes inches) when a loag of 4 KG is placed in mid-span on the londes span in the upper lifeline and 4.5" on lower lifelines (yes kilograms; they mixed the units)
Want to see some destructive tests, go to @hownot2 on TH-cam ; mostly climbing related, buy some sailing applications, lots of broken dyneema! A lot of coverage of soft-shackles and some useful stuff related to mast-climbing.
This actually has the right amount of bury, it’s just a tiny line so it doesn’t need very much. As for the chafe covers, when I installed this about 9 years ago, I didn’t know how it would hold so I did it bare so I could inspect it better and keep it safer. Now I know that the material is sound and a chafe sleeve would be all that you would need :)
The lashings are long, but I’m not racing ;)
Thanks! Great video!
How do you do a lock if you don't have a loose end? Like if you make a single loop?
Like this: [How to] Make a Dyneema Deadeye | Sailing Wisdom th-cam.com/video/9-4AYV7jKRA/w-d-xo.html
Hi and thanks for that.
Regarding chafing in the lifelines. How do you hung your fenders?
For me, that's what causes the chafing at the stanchions.
I just tie a clove hitch or Magnus hitch but have the fender not touching the water so it doesn’t move much. It hasn’t been much of an issue for us.
my issue with dyneema lifellines is how easy is to cut them under tension. you get near it with a sharp edge and their are gone and in a pickle a lot can go bad in a second. not the place for fibres. either swr or ss guardrail.
I’m just having trouble picturing an item that could cut through this accidentally. Even if you happen to be running with a big knife during a storm (why?) and you fall on the lifeline knife-first, it wouldn’t cut through. It might knick an outer fiber or two.
Thanks for your instruction...not many sailors show splicing. Where are you sailing now? I am a sailor ,living in the province of Newfoundland, Canada 🇨🇦...stay safe 🙏
Our episodes have us in the Caribbean, but our current location is Florida. We’ll be heading up the coast starting in January. :)
@@RiggingDoctor ...where in Florida now ? I'm in Mayport/ Atlantic Beach...give me a call if you need a ride/help on your way up the coast...formerly from Baltimore/ Magothy River, another sailing couple here gave up their dock at Fells Point after years living there...made it this far, on their way to the islands eventually ? Are you motoring up the ICW, or going outside ?
hi, with dyneema rigging and an electric motor what would be the affect of a lightning strike.
It would not be good 🤪
I'm replacing my Aphrodite 101s life lines with synthetic in the Spring, they are old and need to go. But I would hasten to point out that years ago the US Navy did some systematic testing of lifelines of recreational boats - with the most horrifying results. If you saw the pictures of the test results you might not go to sea again. Unfortunately, though I thought I had bookmarked it, but cannot refind the article tonight. The take away point is that it was not the strength of old fashioned steel wire lifelines that were the problem, they did not break, it was every single other part of the system that failed catastrophically: the stanchions, the connections of the stanchions to the deck, the way lifelines are loaded transversely but their strength is longitudinal... It is not that hard to figure out - except an alternative.
Lifelines are a false sense of security!
@@RiggingDoctor Thanks for the reply. I hear this reply all of the time. It seems like we really need something better than what we have, safety equipment that actually keeps us safe.
This fix looks only useful for a chafe at the lifeline extremes (viz from the last stanchion aft or the first stanchion forward). How will you be able to run the standing end (With the of the Eye splice and thimble) of second splice though the stanchions.
If it is inaccessible, there is another method which also works and requires no free ends.
th-cam.com/video/KOB5LdWTEQ0/w-d-xo.html
I noticed that you skipped over the part of passing the final eye through on the 2nd splice. Did you pull the loop out of the thimble? Something else?
I took the thimble out and then it collapsed to fit through the splice
@@RiggingDoctor Cool, I figured that is what you did, but showing it would have added value (IMO). Thanks for confirming. I also have dyneema lifelines, so I appreciate the detail of this video!
Thanks for the feedback!
👍!!!
:)
I am going to make some Dyneema lifelines and I see conflicting info about whether to use single of double braid Dyneema.What are your thoughts? Do you have a suggestion of what fittings are required for gates?
I would do single braid for safety reasons. If there is a problem it is easier to see and repair, and it’s easier to splice to build the lifelines in the first place. The added bulk of the second braid in double braid means that you now need to use a smaller core which means slightly weaker lifelines and the trade off isn’t worth it for me.
Construction is simple, the ends finish as an eye splice where the lashing line goes from the eye to the part on the boat where the lifeline used to attach to. This is how you tighten it. The gate is simple splices into one of the eyes that ends at the gate opening and clips into the other side of the gate opening eye splice.
Below are some links to the most important part, the gate hook! The other links are for the thimbles (a quality option and a cheap option).
For the gates: amzn.to/3ye3IzO
For all the ending eye splices: amzn.to/4arnBAS
A cheaper but less nice type of thimble: amzn.to/3QMreu2
What do you think of dyneme mooring lines?
They don’t have any stretch in them. Three strand nylon is the best as they have elasticity.
Just a question if synthetic rigging is so good why do most sailboats use galvanised or stainless steel rigging on my boat my rigging is stainless and 25 years old and have no problem but I am only using my boat for estuary cruising.
Regards James
Sailors like what has been used before. The switch to synthetic is happening just as the switch to electric, very slowly.
@@RiggingDoctor okay thank you.
Why no sock made from crimp-hose over that part that goes true the hole.
Make sure it doesn’t fray at the first time
The stanchion tubes were polished to minimize the risk and for the sake of inspectability. Also, the lifeline moves forward and aft a good bit depending on setup and usage. Covering it is fine, but having a fair lead that won’t chafe in h to r first place is better.
@@RiggingDoctor it’s absolutely a brilliant fix to ad the fair leed. I keep it in mind when new wires are to be installed
Would you mix a stainless forestay with the other stays using Dyneema?
Yes, the only mixing you don’t want to do is in your shrouds, they all have to be Dyneema or steel on the sides of the boat; but you can mix synthetic everything with a steel headstay to let you keep running a furler.
@@RiggingDoctor Great! I was worried that the different thermal expansion coefficients would make it not work!!! Thanks
That’s only an issue when mixing shrouds on the same side of the mast. With headstay/backstay mixing materials, on cold days the headstay will be a little slack while on warm days it will be back to normal.
A backstay adjuster takes all the issue out of the equation as you can simply tighten the backstay adjuster on colder days to go to windward and ease it when you get back to the dock or anchor.
@@RiggingDoctor Cool, thanks for the info!
The TH-cam location tag says Gibraltar?
Yep, we filmed this before we set out to cross the Atlantic a second time.
@@RiggingDoctor ahh, I thought you might have snuck back across again
I’m lucky to tie my shoes
🤣
Hey-here's a "novel " idea. Make grommets of single braid, place them in the stanchions over the lines and stitch in place-thank you "atomvoyages" long time boat improver-now on youtube
I love it!
But my question is… does it worth splicing instead of replacing the whole line?
At a few dollars per foot, a long lifeline can be expensive when a 2 foot piece will patch it up and keep it working.
Hmm. I’m guessing this repair is when yer “Short” on Line…Cuz wouldn’t it be easier to replace the Entire Line? Just thinking…Continue to Stay Safe & Enjoy😎
Replacing the whole line would involve two eye splices and feeding it through all the stanchions. It also uses a lot more line which is also more expensive. Repairing a small section is both easier and cheaper, especially on a long run.
"...when yer short on line..." ? Dyneema is ridiculously expensive....it's not like you can keep spools of the big stuff around, it's not like replacing dirt-cheap nylon.
Soooo.. there is no core in this line???
Nope, it’s single braid line. Much easier to splice as there is only one layer!
:)
Thanks!
Looks terrible. Should be same color line. Better to replace a whole section. It may be strong but your fix looks like a bandaid or a temporary fix at best.
It is the same color line. The old one is just faded. Doesn’t bother us
It’s also been in the videos of the entire Atlantic crossing and no one has noticed it or mentioned it. Repairing the small section still seems to be a better choice than trashing the whole piece over “color”