Best tutorial I've ever seen I wish you made videos for all makes and models because it's so easy to understand and see what your doing. Thanks for the video!!!
@@anthonyhurth2823steering wheel starts vibrating like your PlayStation controller lol or your wheels will starts wearing bad if I remember correctly. I don’t do ball joints too often cus they never really went bad on any of my Silverados until 100k
Thanks for the video, and torque specs, I'm probably going to have to replace my lower ball joints soon on my 2015 GMC SIERRA, they have moderate play as of 2 years ago when I had a local repair shop do a job on the truck I didn't want to do at the time. They quoted me a price of $600 to replace the lower ball joints, I figured about $400 to do it myself with parts and tools. And I'd change front rotors, pads, front wheel bearings, at same time. Truck has 228,000 miles currently. Have no intention of a new truck any time soon. Too Expensive for me.! I'm shooting for 300,000 + miles. Never had a vehicle that made it to 300k, so, that's my goal.
@@daleliske9757 Sounds like a good plan. I'm with you on the price of trucks. They are ridiculous these days! I'm sure you'll get to 300k, these are good engines 👍
I've done plenty of ball joints first time on my silverado was just watching incase there was something new I didn't know I needed to know. Glad you threw in torqe specs and for those that didn't know about the 2 different control arms. Good video even if it's boring ball joints.
Thank you so much for this fantastic tutorial for us that work on our cars on the ground. I have to do this work on my Sierra 2014 with 106Kmi. I had a quote for $600 labor plus $200 in parts. Kinda pricy. So Imma do it myself...🤔
Thank-you sir! Its nice to have a complete instruction video, From someone that really knows what he's doing and not trying to sugar code it, with all kinds of irrelevant explanations....
Great video. Was surprised how easily I was able to remove the ball joint. But had trouble with the install. Mine went in a bit askew and wrecked the ball joint. I tried again and pressed it tight but could not get the snap ring on as it looked like it also got damaged coming up. I suspect it could also be the control arm that is damaged so instead of trying another ball joint I am going to replace the control arm. Any ideas what went wrong on my install? I think the cup size was less than perfect--I have a huge set but couldn't find the idea fit. What else could cause the new ball joint to go in crooked?
You might not have done anything "wrong". It can be a challenge getting them in strait. Replacing the control arm with the ball joint pre-installed is a good option 👍
Great video, thank you! When going to auto zone to rent the tool, definitely ask for the truck adapters for the ball joint presser. without that extra kit you wont be able to get it back in.
Finishing up mine right now. Replaced the lower control arm because the ball joint wouldn’t come out, put the knuckle back on and I have a crazy downward angle now even after getting the wheel bearing all the way onto the cv shaft. Any ideas?
@@prand1293 When did you tighten/ torque the control arm? The control arm bolts should be torqued with the suspension loaded as if the truck was sitting on the ground.
I just went through this process however it didn't go as smooth as I had hoped so heres a heads up for anyone doing this on the stamped steel version control arm. There is an inner lip on the top of the arm ( Hard to explain but you will know what I am talking about as soon as you pop out the factory balljoint ) that makes pressing the new balljoint in perfectly straight a bit of a challenge as its easy to catch an edge of it on the way up which could make getting your snap ring on a problem if it bends the inner edge of the control arm up a little bit. You will also need a few more large balljoint adaptors then he uses here because the balljoint is longer then the cast and aluminum control arm versions and if you have access to an 8" press that would be helpful aswell. One last thing, Moog gives you a grease nipple that goes straight up, throw it away and get yourself a good 90 degree unless you never want to grease your balljoint again.
I’m getting ready to service the lower ball joints on my 18 Silverado. Everything I can find says that you cannot replace them if you have the stamped steel lower control arm. I find that hard to believe, but I’m having trouble even finding a ball joint that is clearly designated for the stamped control arm
The lower ball joint can be pressed out like in this video. But the upper ball joint I believe requires the whole control arm to be replaced as a unit.
Did the ball joint come without the boot on it and is it ok to reuse the upper control arm ball joint and tie rod after freeing it? It seems to be loose
My ball joint came with the rubber boot in the packaging but unattached. The tie rod and upper ball joint can be reused 👍. Of course if they are worn out then replacing them as well would be the way to go.
im looking for the power ball joint but i can not find one that fits my 2018 silverado with cast steel lca where can i find ones that fit? the ones i find have a bigger taper and does not set in all the way into the knuckle
I will be replacing a lower ball joint and CV Axle on a 08 Colorado, which has torsion bars. Will I need to have support under the LCA while doing this? I'm concerned that when the knuckle is removed the LCA will drop and the UCA will raise up to the point I can't get the two arms close enough to get the knuckle back in. I saw you had no problem with the Silverado.
Yes, you need to support the lower control arm in some way. You can use a jack stand but I prefer using a jack. I feel it gives me more control over the height of the control arm if I need to lower it or raise it for some reason 👍
Oh and one more thing, what if the bushings were bad at the other end of the control arm would you replace the whole thing or would you change those bushings out?
@@chadkelley5523 It wouldn't be too much more work since you need to unbolt it anyway. The upper ball joint is part of the control arm so the whole arm would need to be replaced. In this case the upper joint was good so the customer just went with the lower.
I need you to clear something up. When you are torquing the lower ball joint nut you state that the torque spec is 37 ft lbs + 135 degrees. Soon after you say the spec is 37 ft lbs + 90 degrees. The upper ball joint nut is said to be 37 ft lbs + 90 degrees as well. Which is correct?
When you got ready to put the clamp on the ball joint to press it out was that the right way to just put the shaft on top spinning around or is there a adapter in your kit to put on the ball joint to hold it straight? Just wondering because that kit you have has lotsa adapter pieces and I figured it must have one, Thanks very much for the great video
Good question. The driving rod has a ball bearing inside to allow the tip to remain stationary while the shaft spins. You only need one adapter for pressing them out but you use two adapters for pressing the new one back in. One on top and one at the bottom.
@@ValleyMobileAutomotive thanks very much, I have a GMC Sierra that sometimes when going slow or fast but going slow over a rough yard or field when it rocks back and fourth there is something banging. I have put my listening device on many items, after watching your video I wondered if it was the ball joints or bushing at other end, tried everything today and can not find this issue. This is a issue with many sierras 2014-2018. It’s really getting stupid now because I can not find this problem.
Great video! Question about the brakes. Just did this and now my brakes sort of rumble when pressing the pedal. I did pump them a few times but it still persists. Any advice? Cheers
What the heck, if cold shrinks metal, then why does heat make things easier to get unstuck? Would the heat not make stuff expand and get bigger in that case? Confused
@thethirstyscholar1 That's correct. Heat makes things expand. In the case of removing a nut you concentrate the heat on the nut to expand it from the threads. Also the expanding of one surface can break rust and corrosion from between the surfaces allowing it to break loose. It's pretty cool science.
The most consistent symptom is tire wear. You may have "cupping" on the inside of the tire or the inside might wear out faster than the outside. You may also experience squeaking or clunking but not always. Lifting the tire off the ground and checking for "play" is the best way to determine if your ball joints need replacing.
Typically a small sledge is all you need. A framing hammer may be too bouncy. If it is really stuck then you may need to get what's called a "pickle fork". Your local parts store should have one. This is an example of a set from Amazon amzn.to/3bSWjeB
The most common symptom you may experience is uneven tire wear. You may also notice a clunking noise over bumps or squeaking while turning. If you are unsure you can have a shop or tire place look at it for you 👍
The ball joint had play in it. It was discovered during an inspection. You may not notice any symptoms at first. But eventually you may notice a clunk in the front going over bumps and or abnormal tire wear. A broken ball joint is bad news so if you have any play in yours I'd recommend putting it on the fix it list.
everything was OK in the video until you mentioned the DEGREES..."""37ft/lbs plus 137 degrees""" I know how to torque on 37ft/lbs, but how to torque in DEGREES... Can you make a video explaining that or where can I get that information to know how to do that. thank you
Good question. It might help to draw a circle. One full circle is 360 degrees. Half of a circle is 180 degrees. 1/4 of a circle is 90 degrees. 137 degrees is roughly halfway between 90 degrees and 180 degrees. So halfway between 1/4 turn and half a turn would be 137 degrees.
@@ValleyMobileAutomotivewhen you torqued the top one you mentioned”37ft pounds plus 90” I’m guessing you were referring to 90 degrees and not an additional 90 ft pounds am I correct?
@@TroyCook-s7p I used a jack stand. I like the kind that have a mechanical locking pin to prevent the stand from failing. Harbor Freight had a recall on their stands a while back. That stuff scares me 😬
Man...........You are an excellent mechanic and teacher
Thank you for sharing
Thanks Joseph, that means a lot 👊
Best tutorial I've ever seen I wish you made videos for all makes and models because it's so easy to understand and see what your doing. Thanks for the video!!!
Great Job!! I have bad lower ball joints on 2016 Silverado need replacing I feel comfortable doing it now myself.
How do you know when they go bad?
@@anthonyhurth2823steering wheel starts vibrating like your PlayStation controller lol or your wheels will starts wearing bad if I remember correctly. I don’t do ball joints too often cus they never really went bad on any of my Silverados until 100k
Same. Also this and the oil Pam is the reason I opt for the easier 2wd
Thanks for the video, and torque specs, I'm probably going to have to replace my lower ball joints soon on my 2015 GMC SIERRA, they have moderate play as of 2 years ago when I had a local repair shop do a job on the truck I didn't want to do at the time. They quoted me a price of $600 to replace the lower ball joints, I figured about $400 to do it myself with parts and tools. And I'd change front rotors, pads, front wheel bearings, at same time. Truck has 228,000 miles currently. Have no intention of a new truck any time soon. Too Expensive for me.! I'm shooting for 300,000 + miles. Never had a vehicle that made it to 300k, so, that's my goal.
@@daleliske9757 Sounds like a good plan. I'm with you on the price of trucks. They are ridiculous these days! I'm sure you'll get to 300k, these are good engines 👍
I've done plenty of ball joints first time on my silverado was just watching incase there was something new I didn't know I needed to know. Glad you threw in torqe specs and for those that didn't know about the 2 different control arms. Good video even if it's boring ball joints.
Good video. Thanks for the torque specs.
Thank you so much for this fantastic tutorial for us that work on our cars on the ground. I have to do this work on my Sierra 2014 with 106Kmi. I had a quote for $600 labor plus $200 in parts. Kinda pricy. So Imma do it myself...🤔
You got this 👊. If you have any questions feel free to send them in the comments 👍
Thanks for the tip on removing the top stamps. That's what was holding me back.
Good video, not wasting time straight to the point very informative including where to apply locktite and torque settings
@@raymonddigiuseppe2953 Thanks! Glad this video was helpful 🙂
Best Tutorial I've ever seen. Thanks
Hey Robert, great video. I'm doing a 2016 Chevy 4x4 and perfect timing for your video. Thank you for your help.....
Thank you me and my dad were able to change both ball joints on his 2015 sierra gmc video was great help
@@sweatygee5416 Nice! Glad this video was helpful 🙂
Thank-you sir!
Its nice to have a complete instruction video, From someone that really knows what he's doing and not trying to sugar code it, with all kinds of irrelevant explanations....
You're welcome! Glad this was helpful 🙂
Great job! This helps me so much to see how this is done! Thanks
Your talking style is awesome brother👍🏻😂 “it is not necessary maybe it is”
So great. Clear and concise. Thank you.
Great video Robert
Thanks! 🙂
Thank you, really good explanation.
Great video Big help!
@@lawnboy8401 Awesome! Glad this was helpful 🙂
Great how to video, thank you!
Very well done thanks
Thanks for the video, good work. I'm in the process of getting ready to replace both and struts.
Great video. Was surprised how easily I was able to remove the ball joint. But had trouble with the install. Mine went in a bit askew and wrecked the ball joint. I tried again and pressed it tight but could not get the snap ring on as it looked like it also got damaged coming up. I suspect it could also be the control arm that is damaged so instead of trying another ball joint I am going to replace the control arm. Any ideas what went wrong on my install? I think the cup size was less than perfect--I have a huge set but couldn't find the idea fit. What else could cause the new ball joint to go in crooked?
You might not have done anything "wrong". It can be a challenge getting them in strait. Replacing the control arm with the ball joint pre-installed is a good option 👍
Great video, thank you! When going to auto zone to rent the tool, definitely ask for the truck adapters for the ball joint presser. without that extra kit you wont be able to get it back in.
Good reminder! Thanks 👍
My torque specs are impact tight and breaker bar with some heavy love taps from a mini sledgehammer
Finishing up mine right now. Replaced the lower control arm because the ball joint wouldn’t come out, put the knuckle back on and I have a crazy downward angle now even after getting the wheel bearing all the way onto the cv shaft. Any ideas?
@@prand1293 When did you tighten/ torque the control arm? The control arm bolts should be torqued with the suspension loaded as if the truck was sitting on the ground.
Can I fit the ball joint press in with the upper control arm in or iis that in the way
I just went through this process however it didn't go as smooth as I had hoped so heres a heads up for anyone doing this on the stamped steel version control arm.
There is an inner lip on the top of the arm ( Hard to explain but you will know what I am talking about as soon as you pop out the factory balljoint ) that makes pressing the new balljoint in perfectly straight a bit of a challenge as its easy to catch an edge of it on the way up which could make getting your snap ring on a problem if it bends the inner edge of the control arm up a little bit. You will also need a few more large balljoint adaptors then he uses here because the balljoint is longer then the cast and aluminum control arm versions and if you have access to an 8" press that would be helpful aswell.
One last thing, Moog gives you a grease nipple that goes straight up, throw it away and get yourself a good 90 degree unless you never want to grease your balljoint again.
I’m getting ready to service the lower ball joints on my 18 Silverado. Everything I can find says that you cannot replace them if you have the stamped steel lower control arm. I find that hard to believe, but I’m having trouble even finding a ball joint that is clearly designated for the stamped control arm
@burtbaxter6567 The moog part number your looking for for the stamped lower is: K500408
Think you got a better riser kit than what I rented.
Would it make sense to change the uppers while you have it all apart? Is it the same procedure?
I'm replacing both, with struts. Replacing top ball joint with the control arm.
Your green c-clamp press tool is what brand?
@@Mrpolaris79 It's from Orion Motor Tech. I should have a link in the description for the one I used 👍
I have 2017 gmc sierra 1500. Will this work to? The dealership was trying to say i needed to replace the whole control arm
The lower ball joint can be pressed out like in this video. But the upper ball joint I believe requires the whole control arm to be replaced as a unit.
Did the ball joint come without the boot on it and is it ok to reuse the upper control arm ball joint and tie rod after freeing it? It seems to be loose
My ball joint came with the rubber boot in the packaging but unattached. The tie rod and upper ball joint can be reused 👍. Of course if they are worn out then replacing them as well would be the way to go.
Bought the ball joints from the link you provide but mine didnt come with the rubber boot.
@@MangekyoShar10 Is there a small skinny boot on it? On Moog ball joints the boot is integrated and does not require you to install it separately 👍
Curious, you think it would be easier to change the whole lower arm with a preinstalled ball joint?
Negative
great video. what ball joint press kit are you using?
This work for the 2500?
@@thethirstyscholar1 The process will be similar but the torque specs may be different.
@ValleyMobileAutomotive thank you
im looking for the power ball joint but i can not find one that fits my 2018 silverado with cast steel lca where can i find ones that fit? the ones i find have a bigger taper and does not set in all the way into the knuckle
I will be replacing a lower ball joint and CV Axle on a 08 Colorado, which has torsion bars. Will I need to have support under the LCA while doing this? I'm concerned that when the knuckle is removed the LCA will drop and the UCA will raise up to the point I can't get the two arms close enough to get the knuckle back in. I saw you had no problem with the Silverado.
Yes, you need to support the lower control arm in some way. You can use a jack stand but I prefer using a jack. I feel it gives me more control over the height of the control arm if I need to lower it or raise it for some reason 👍
is this video a good reference for a 2017 Silverado 1500?
I believe 2014-2018 are all the same 👍
How did you the knuckle on without breaking off grease zert on lower ball joint??
The grease fitting is pretty stout and it's in a safe place where nothing hits it hard going back on.
Actually I think there are three different control arms. Aluminum, stamped steel and cast version. My 2016 has the cast version. Great video!
Nice work I’m looking at getting the MATCO 18100
Can you recommend a heavy duty ball joint for the lower arm on a 2015 Silverado?
Kryptonite is a great brand for heavy duty suspension parts.
kryptoniteproducts.com/
Is this same platform as the hummer H2?
Great video
Oh and one more thing, what if the bushings were bad at the other end of the control arm would you replace the whole thing or would you change those bushings out?
Either way works. Changing the ball joint and bushings are cheaper but replacing the whole control arm is easier.
Why not do the upper ball joint? Is that the same part number?
@@chadkelley5523 It wouldn't be too much more work since you need to unbolt it anyway. The upper ball joint is part of the control arm so the whole arm would need to be replaced. In this case the upper joint was good so the customer just went with the lower.
I need you to clear something up. When you are torquing the lower ball joint nut you state that the torque spec is 37 ft lbs + 135 degrees. Soon after you say the spec is 37 ft lbs + 90 degrees. The upper ball joint nut is said to be 37 ft lbs + 90 degrees as well. Which is correct?
Lower ball joint 37+135*
Upper ball joint 37+90*
When you got ready to put the clamp on the ball joint to press it out was that the right way to just put the shaft on top spinning around or is there a adapter in your kit to put on the ball joint to hold it straight? Just wondering because that kit you have has lotsa adapter pieces and I figured it must have one, Thanks very much for the great video
Good question. The driving rod has a ball bearing inside to allow the tip to remain stationary while the shaft spins. You only need one adapter for pressing them out but you use two adapters for pressing the new one back in. One on top and one at the bottom.
@@ValleyMobileAutomotive thanks very much, I have a GMC Sierra that sometimes when going slow or fast but going slow over a rough yard or field when it rocks back and fourth there is something banging. I have put my listening device on many items, after watching your video I wondered if it was the ball joints or bushing at other end, tried everything today and can not find this issue. This is a issue with many sierras 2014-2018. It’s really getting stupid now because I can not find this problem.
Thank you sir
Great video! Question about the brakes. Just did this and now my brakes sort of rumble when pressing the pedal. I did pump them a few times but it still persists. Any advice? Cheers
I would pull the tire back off and double check everything. Look for areas that could make the noise that you hear.
I've heard that putting your new ball joint ls in the freezer overnight helps get them in easier.
@@cotton_eyed_jim2767 In theory the freezer shrinks the metal and makes the ball joint "smaller" in diameter. I don't know to what extent.
What the heck, if cold shrinks metal, then why does heat make things easier to get unstuck? Would the heat not make stuff expand and get bigger in that case? Confused
@thethirstyscholar1 That's correct. Heat makes things expand. In the case of removing a nut you concentrate the heat on the nut to expand it from the threads. Also the expanding of one surface can break rust and corrosion from between the surfaces allowing it to break loose. It's pretty cool science.
@@ValleyMobileAutomotive okay, logical. And water expands when frozen cause water is not metal
@thethirstyscholar1 Water is pretty crazy that way!
What are signs of bad ball joints?
The most consistent symptom is tire wear. You may have "cupping" on the inside of the tire or the inside might wear out faster than the outside. You may also experience squeaking or clunking but not always. Lifting the tire off the ground and checking for "play" is the best way to determine if your ball joints need replacing.
Dealer says my 2018 needs ball joints but is pricing new control arm with joint already in. Ok with me as covered by extended warranty.
Lmao not a hole alot to it buddy im on day 2 i already got 7 hours in good thing i just have to put it back together
1:30 was not that easy for me is there a certain amount of force needed to remove it
Typically a small sledge is all you need. A framing hammer may be too bouncy. If it is really stuck then you may need to get what's called a "pickle fork". Your local parts store should have one. This is an example of a set from Amazon amzn.to/3bSWjeB
Thanks for the help great video
on the ground with nothing supporting it , its alot harder had to put pressure up on mine
“37ft pounds plus an additional 90” what do you mean by that. Is it 90 degrees, or you meant torque it an additional 90pounds??
90 degrees
All four of mine needs replaced along with the knuckles and front right tie rods 😕
Question how does one know when his ball joints are bad???
The most common symptom you may experience is uneven tire wear. You may also notice a clunking noise over bumps or squeaking while turning. If you are unsure you can have a shop or tire place look at it for you 👍
finally one that’s stamped out lmao they all got snap rings, mine is stamped and i had no idea what to do 😭😭
Awesome
What was your symptoms to replace the lower ball joints?
The ball joint had play in it. It was discovered during an inspection. You may not notice any symptoms at first. But eventually you may notice a clunk in the front going over bumps and or abnormal tire wear. A broken ball joint is bad news so if you have any play in yours I'd recommend putting it on the fix it list.
The GM dealer on my 2011 2500hd they wanted $1800.00 ,to replace the ball joints
everything was OK in the video until you mentioned the DEGREES..."""37ft/lbs plus 137 degrees""" I know how to torque on 37ft/lbs, but how to torque in DEGREES... Can you make a video explaining that or where can I get that information to know how to do that. thank you
Good question. It might help to draw a circle. One full circle is 360 degrees. Half of a circle is 180 degrees. 1/4 of a circle is 90 degrees. 137 degrees is roughly halfway between 90 degrees and 180 degrees. So halfway between 1/4 turn and half a turn would be 137 degrees.
@@ValleyMobileAutomotivewhen you torqued the top one you mentioned”37ft pounds plus 90” I’m guessing you were referring to 90 degrees and not an additional 90 ft pounds am I correct?
👍👍
No jack stand I had a jack fail. The inside seal blew you be fucked in the wheel well
@@TroyCook-s7p I used a jack stand. I like the kind that have a mechanical locking pin to prevent the stand from failing. Harbor Freight had a recall on their stands a while back. That stuff scares me 😬
What replacement would you recommend for a lifted 2015 1500 with 35 tires
@@letsgoBrandon4200 I would look into Kryptonite suspension components.