For the end moulding, do you leave a gap the width of the track in front of the sliding door? I am using something similar to use with my LVP and raised fireplace hearth, and unsure of I continue to keep 1/4" expansion gap or the width of the track?? ANY help would be appreciated as this single mom is doing it DIY!!!
Hello, You want the end molding to butt right up against the sliding door frame, you would need to measure where you need to install the track based on that. Once your track is installed you would cut your flooring about 1/4" away from the track. Some products, you may be able to glue down and not eve use a track, if so you would need the right glue for it to hold up. This is less common with vinyl and more common with laminate floors.
@@znetflooring Thank you SOOO much for your prompt reply! That is what I thought and was arguing with my flooring salesman today, as I said I should do it the way you showed in the video, and just explained to me!! I can't thank you enough!!!!
Great video but what do you do when your placing on concrete and using the providing screws and concrete anchors with shims the track has predrilled holes but the shims do not
Many people glue them down with a premium construction adhesive that is compatible with PVC. You Can drill them at the same time you drill you concrete as well. If drilled, I still suggest using adhesive for extra holding strength. Both glue and screwing is best.
Why wouldn't you allow transition to overlap carpet? With traffic going thru it could lift. Also it is ok to glue to top of laminate when going against existing tile floors?
Hi, When overlapping the carpet the transitions will often times break with time and regular traffic. Many DIYers will overlap the carpet due to a lack of carpet tools and experience. If the carpet is installed correctly, stretched tight and not cut short (has a proper tight tuck), it should last a long time. Often times carpet guys may be in a hurry and do not get a proper stretch and may cut it slightly short (which isn't easy to notice), in these situations the carpet is likely to pull back with time. I prefer people follow proper guidelines with their installs, but depending on the skill/experience level, it may be better to install it the way you suggest, and it is actually a common practice.
How does one use these piece for a 2 sides edge. I have an entry way that needs transitions on both sides. But it appears this tmolding is arched and when cutting 45s to butt them together, it will not be flush
Hello, Is it not flush because it bent a little while cutting it? Mitering them should work fine. Maybe put some blue tap on the top and try mitering it upside down slowly, if it is bending on you?
Hello, We do recommend gluing it down and if you use a quality glue and properly weight it down for a day or 2, it should hold up well. I have an installer that I respect recommend this glue: amzn.to/3cvCBGa
I've found that using this as a T-moulding for 6mm setups. the transitions make a popping sound when stepped on. Any tips on stopping that popping sound? I've added weight to make sure the glue sets, i've used smaller packing. Only thing I haven't tried is interlocking the short and tall shim. Second question, would interlocking the shims be wise for a 10mm to 6mm hard surface reducer, or stacking the short and tall?
Honestly, it is hard for me to say without actually trying it. I never been a fan of tract systems, but I think they must be used with this product. With laminate floors I preferred to just glue the moldings down, I am told that is not a real option with these. Sorry I can't be of more help.
As far as I know, the products this piece is designed to go with have pre attached pad and should not have an underlayment added. Also I would like to mention that a 3mm underlayment should not ever be added to vinyl planks as you will likely experience locking system failure due to too much movement.
Hello, If possible, I like to suggest a quarter round in those spots just for that reason, as long as you have a vertical surface that you can glue it to, it should work well.
@@swstiglich Instead of the molding in the video, cut the flooring closer to the door frame, install the quarter round up against the door frame piece the same way you would against baseboards.
Carpet should be stretched in and held down with tackstrip and then trimmed and tucked against the molding. You really would want a carpet installer to handle it as it is not an easy DIY process. At some point, we should make a video, even if it is just so people can visualize.
Hello, The track should not go on top of the floor, it goes next to or between floors. The depth is required to know what height to shim the the track.
And if you are only using glue that can be trick for those plastic spacers and plastic track , they will want to lift because nothing is holding it down like a screw
What happens when you go over 8mm for the transition and you can’t because the ceramic tile it to high , or the carpet and padding are the thickest made ones
Carpet should tuck up against the molding, the molding should not go over the carpet. When the tile is too high you really need to get creative with it, installers may shim it higher and install it backwards, acting like the tile is the vinyl reducing down to the actual vinyl.
You show three different types of pieces and have names for them, but if you added a visual label to each, we would have a much better idea of which piece you are talking about...
Hello, Most people are using a miter/chop saw just because they already have one on the jobsite and it is probably the easiest for most cuts. A standard wood blade is fine.
Awful video. It is one of those videos that assumes the viewer knows critical information that he (or she) may not have at all. And what is this critical information? How does one measure the height difference? At least for a carpet to plank flooring situation, the video just assumes that you the viewer magically knows how to do this. Do I measure from the plank flooring to the top of the carpet? Do I measure from the plank flooring to the primary backing of the carpet? Or is the measurement done even differently? I do *not* know. It is critical in this video to show someone taking the measure so we can clearly understand it. On top of this, the breezy treatment of what to do for the different heights again assumes viewers who already understand what to do. In short, this video is like many poorly done videos or instruction manuals for people who already have enough knowledge to fill in the gaps. For someone like me, who has done very DYI work for decades, I am just left guessing what to do. What is frustrating is that would have taken very little extra effort for this video to cover these gaps. It turns out that flooring thickness appears to only refer to the vinyl flooring - not the carpet. By Googling, I found this: "All references to flooring thickness refer to the total thickness of all members of the floor installation being laid upon the subfloor. This typically is comprised of the flooring plank, e.g. Vinyl or Laminate, the underlayment, either attached or loose lay and any additional vapor barriers." So from this information, since I have vinyl flooring that includes a built-in underlayment, I can just measure the height of a plank, and I have the right height. This critical information was absent from this video, and for people who do *not* know what they're doing (like me), this is a showstopper. You can't do the installation without knowing this. Clearly they never validated this video by showing it to people who don't know much.
Hello, While I agree that there certainly could be more information provided, the instance of measuring for carpet height should have no change to this installation at all. Carpet tucks against the molding. Install the molding to overlap the floor on one side, install your tackstrip 1/4" away from the molding, stretch your carpet into place, trim and tuck. The critical info missing here, they show the carpet already stretched in and that is not realistic nor is it correct, the carpet should be installed after the molding not prior. If you already have carpet down, pull it back and have a carpet guy come in for a quick retack after all glue has setup.
For the end moulding, do you leave a gap the width of the track in front of the sliding door? I am using something similar to use with my LVP and raised fireplace hearth, and unsure of I continue to keep 1/4" expansion gap or the width of the track?? ANY help would be appreciated as this single mom is doing it DIY!!!
Hello,
You want the end molding to butt right up against the sliding door frame, you would need to measure where you need to install the track based on that. Once your track is installed you would cut your flooring about 1/4" away from the track.
Some products, you may be able to glue down and not eve use a track, if so you would need the right glue for it to hold up. This is less common with vinyl and more common with laminate floors.
@@znetflooring Thank you SOOO much for your prompt reply! That is what I thought and was arguing with my flooring salesman today, as I said I should do it the way you showed in the video, and just explained to me!! I can't thank you enough!!!!
Great video but what do you do when your placing on concrete and using the providing screws and concrete anchors with shims the track has predrilled holes but the shims do not
Many people glue them down with a premium construction adhesive that is compatible with PVC. You Can drill them at the same time you drill you concrete as well. If drilled, I still suggest using adhesive for extra holding strength. Both glue and screwing is best.
How secure is this? Doesn't seem like this will hold up long, and in a high traffic area.
Hello,
I personally am not a huge fan of transitions that need a track, typically track systems do eventually break. I suggest using glue as well.
Why wouldn't you allow transition to overlap carpet? With traffic going thru it could lift. Also it is ok to glue to top of laminate when going against existing tile floors?
Hi,
When overlapping the carpet the transitions will often times break with time and regular traffic. Many DIYers will overlap the carpet due to a lack of carpet tools and experience.
If the carpet is installed correctly, stretched tight and not cut short (has a proper tight tuck), it should last a long time. Often times carpet guys may be in a hurry and do not get a proper stretch and may cut it slightly short (which isn't easy to notice), in these situations the carpet is likely to pull back with time.
I prefer people follow proper guidelines with their installs, but depending on the skill/experience level, it may be better to install it the way you suggest, and it is actually a common practice.
How does one use these piece for a 2 sides edge. I have an entry way that needs transitions on both sides. But it appears this tmolding is arched and when cutting 45s to butt them together, it will not be flush
Hello,
Is it not flush because it bent a little while cutting it? Mitering them should work fine. Maybe put some blue tap on the top and try mitering it upside down slowly, if it is bending on you?
@@znetflooring the trim is arched. It wouldnt be possible without a lip. I ended up finding a piece of tmolding with a flat top.
Do you glue the feet of the plastic shims directly to the sub floor or concrete? Will it hold with glue? The plastic shim looks a bit fragile.
Hello, We do recommend gluing it down and if you use a quality glue and properly weight it down for a day or 2, it should hold up well.
I have an installer that I respect recommend this glue:
amzn.to/3cvCBGa
I've found that using this as a T-moulding for 6mm setups. the transitions make a popping sound when stepped on. Any tips on stopping that popping sound? I've added weight to make sure the glue sets, i've used smaller packing. Only thing I haven't tried is interlocking the short and tall shim.
Second question, would interlocking the shims be wise for a 10mm to 6mm hard surface reducer, or stacking the short and tall?
Honestly, it is hard for me to say without actually trying it. I never been a fan of tract systems, but I think they must be used with this product. With laminate floors I preferred to just glue the moldings down, I am told that is not a real option with these.
Sorry I can't be of more help.
Do you need to add the underlayment thickness(say like 3mm) to the flooring thickness to get the correct shim height?
As far as I know, the products this piece is designed to go with have pre attached pad and should not have an underlayment added. Also I would like to mention that a 3mm underlayment should not ever be added to vinyl planks as you will likely experience locking system failure due to too much movement.
I don't understand the sharp corners at the opposite edges of the sliding glass door install. Is there a more detailed look at these areas?
Hello,
If possible, I like to suggest a quarter round in those spots just for that reason, as long as you have a vertical surface that you can glue it to, it should work well.
@Znet Flooring Thank you for your time and response. I can't picture in my head what you just described. Where would the quarter round go exactly?
@@znetflooring quarter round running parallel to sliding glass door and t molding?
@Znet Flooring DO you understand for what purpose they cut sharp corners at the ends of the molding?
@@swstiglich
Instead of the molding in the video, cut the flooring closer to the door frame, install the quarter round up against the door frame piece the same way you would against baseboards.
Is there any possibility to use this for carpet to carpet? Doesn’t seem like that option is available
It is not designed for that, you may be able to get it to work, however I suspect there are better options for your use case.
Because that’s weird why would you do that
What if the sub flooring is concrete?
Do you think g Glue will hold this
Hello,
The right kind of glue should hold it well, some people will drill the concrete.
you can't use nails or staples like the directions suggest because the shim and track shatter, I tried both. Going to try glue. This stuff is a pain.
I will remember that for future questions, thank you for your comment.
Instead of glue can we use screws?
Hello, I usually recommend following the directions, however, If you used screws, I would suggest also using glue.
In the carpet to vinyl transition part, how is the carpet held down? You neglected to show that part.
Carpet should be stretched in and held down with tackstrip and then trimmed and tucked against the molding. You really would want a carpet installer to handle it as it is not an easy DIY process.
At some point, we should make a video, even if it is just so people can visualize.
If the track is just going on top of the flooring, why do I need to measure the depth of the flooring?
Hello,
The track should not go on top of the floor, it goes next to or between floors. The depth is required to know what height to shim the the track.
@@znetflooring that seems like a really large gap that we need to cut out of the floor to make the entire track fit. Is that correct?
@@NicholasReguin I guess it depends what we are calling large, I would suggest testing it with scrap pieces first so you have a good understanding.
10:55 all the way to the left is not explained.
11:09 you can see the opposite sharp corner
And if you are only using glue that can be trick for those plastic spacers and plastic track , they will want to lift because nothing is holding it down like a screw
I believe most people would glue and screw down that piece, this is a good glue to use: amzn.to/3dcVOMx
What happens when you go over 8mm for the transition and you can’t because the ceramic tile it to high , or the carpet and padding are the thickest made ones
Carpet should tuck up against the molding, the molding should not go over the carpet.
When the tile is too high you really need to get creative with it, installers may shim it higher and install it backwards, acting like the tile is the vinyl reducing down to the actual vinyl.
You show three different types of pieces and have names for them, but if you added a visual label to each, we would have a much better idea of which piece you are talking about...
What type of saw/blade are y’all using to cut with??
Hello,
Most people are using a miter/chop saw just because they already have one on the jobsite and it is probably the easiest for most cuts. A standard wood blade is fine.
@@znetflooring thank you!
I use my table saw to cut them
Nobody in the US has a measuring tape in mm ! so give it to us in 1/16 in . . .
MM's are easily converted to inches or fractions of an inch. And yes you can buy tape measures that are metric.
You don't need a power saw. Any saw will do.
Awful video. It is one of those videos that assumes the viewer knows critical information that he (or she) may not have at all. And what is this critical information? How does one measure the height difference? At least for a carpet to plank flooring situation, the video just assumes that you the viewer magically knows how to do this. Do I measure from the plank flooring to the top of the carpet? Do I measure from the plank flooring to the primary backing of the carpet? Or is the measurement done even differently? I do *not* know. It is critical in this video to show someone taking the measure so we can clearly understand it. On top of this, the breezy treatment of what to do for the different heights again assumes viewers who already understand what to do. In short, this video is like many poorly done videos or instruction manuals for people who already have enough knowledge to fill in the gaps. For someone like me, who has done very DYI work for decades, I am just left guessing what to do. What is frustrating is that would have taken very little extra effort for this video to cover these gaps.
It turns out that flooring thickness appears to only refer to the vinyl flooring - not the carpet. By Googling, I found this: "All references to flooring thickness refer to the total thickness of all members of the floor installation being laid upon the subfloor. This typically is comprised of the flooring plank, e.g. Vinyl or Laminate, the underlayment, either attached or loose lay and any additional vapor barriers." So from this information, since I have vinyl flooring that includes a built-in underlayment, I can just measure the height of a plank, and I have the right height.
This critical information was absent from this video, and for people who do *not* know what they're doing (like me), this is a showstopper. You can't do the installation without knowing this.
Clearly they never validated this video by showing it to people who don't know much.
Hello,
While I agree that there certainly could be more information provided, the instance of measuring for carpet height should have no change to this installation at all. Carpet tucks against the molding. Install the molding to overlap the floor on one side, install your tackstrip 1/4" away from the molding, stretch your carpet into place, trim and tuck.
The critical info missing here, they show the carpet already stretched in and that is not realistic nor is it correct, the carpet should be installed after the molding not prior. If you already have carpet down, pull it back and have a carpet guy come in for a quick retack after all glue has setup.
THANK YOU! Your comment was so helpful and exactly what I was confused about 💖