Threading a Barrel -Thread Protector Installation! Gunsmithing Remington
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 ก.ย. 2024
- Please see the updated version of this video! A much better representation of what should be done!
• Threading a Barrel Reb...
Here I go over how to thread the end of your barrel for ether a muzzle brake, or a thread protector. This video is for a muzzle brake/thread protector. Sorry, focus is slightly off on part of the video! This was a demo video and just a guideline showing the process. For an actual install, the threads should be cleaner cut, a smaller back cut, and I undercut the major diameter a thou. Attention to detail in an actual install is critical especially with a muzzle brake.
Here is a link for a much better updated version of this video with professional quality work.
• Threading a Barrel Reb...
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Copyright 2015
Thanks for this video and the followup one you did, they really helped with my school assignment.
Dude, you scare me to death. Your flagrant disregard for safety will eventually maim you. 1. lose the gloves. 2. Buy a compressor and blow the chips off with a controllable air nozzle. 3. Keep your hands off the spinning parts. Period. 4. Respect the power you are playing with; a lathe that smoothly cuts through metal will not even slow down when it sucks you into it.
No shit, seriously! If you've not been trained in the safe methods of machine work spend the money and take the safety courses. It only has to go wrong once.
running the lathe in reverse, with the threading tool installed upside down, would allow for a much narrower thread relief. And please don't pull the chips with your hand, you'll end up loosing a finger one day.
It was the only parting tool I had at the time. I've since changed quite a few things and get much much better results.
yes dont use your hand and dont use any kind of gloves. even latex will pull you in. nice video.
At my job we just stand back and watch then laugh
That was the best horror video I’ve seen in a long long time, not to mention the clanking of the drive gears too give it effect! It appears that you have developed many bad habits that “will” bite you.. you’re body will never recover from it! Go back to square one and undo the bad habits.
This is an old video, thanks
First time with my own old worn out lathe and minimal tooling. Other than the threads being very rough from a dull cutter the rest turned out as intended. Prior to this video I worked with newer lathes and carbide, switching over to hss was a little learning curve along with hand grinding cutters. You must not have watched the updated video of mine on the same exact topic.
When I was doing my apprenticeship, it was safety safety safety. The instructors told the story of a lad with a baggy shirt who got towed in by the chuck. The tool in the post ripped his arm open to his armpit and broke it in several places before anyone could get to him and turn it off. No gloves, same as grinding, no gloves with moving parts, period. Use barrier cream if you're worried.
I'm very new to to machining. Why do my hss tools struggle to cut 304 stainless? I get loud screaching and my tools get rounded off almost instantly, even when I make just a 5-10 thousandth pass. Did I buy a cheap set of tools, or am I doing something wrong? I have no formal training, this isnjust a hobby I picked up and learned from youtube videos.
Hard to say without more info, but look into grinding tool bits for a lathe and make sure you have the proper cut along with the correct feed and speed. Also make sure the cuter is coming in level to the center axis of the work or a thou or two low. Running it in above center will destroy you bit in no time and won't cut really much at all.
Sure is a lot of hating on this guys video. Good job man. And for the others make your own video with all the pros and all that don't do any thing but talk about this and that
I found this interesting, but if that were my barrel I would not be happy. Too much cut. Not enough threads and the threads are ragged. If that were my thread protector you'd owe me a new one. Only way to fix that the way it should be is to cut back the barrel and start over with a new thread protector as well as properly crown the barrel. I heard "will do" and "close enough" enough to make me sick. Lesson learned: find a gunsmith with some pride in his work.
+James 51 This is just a quick example to show the general process on a junk barrel. Thread protectors are cheap and if you want one sticking out 1/4" past your crown that's fine, that's not the way they are suppose to be. Only purpose of a thread protector is to protect the threads when your brake or a suppressor isn't on there. The depth is set by the brake not the protector. With the amount of threads, I didn't have the correct cutter to make a smaller cut at the time, that being said, one or one and a half more threads on a brake is not going to make a difference as far as strength, and this one was a demo anyways. I do admit the threads were not perfect, but for this demo they were OK. I would never send anything out like this to a paying customer! I've won enough matches with my own rifles to know I'm a much better builder than 95% of the people out there, and although you point out some obvious flaws, it's not correct to make a general assumption off a quick 20 minute demo which only includes 1/2 of the actual time and effort and measuring involved. I've also replaced just about every machine in my shop since I made this and my machines are much tighter than this old POS I was using here. Guess I'll have to make an updated video and do everything as I normally do!
Here's a quick video on a brake I did a few years ago when I was still working in a very busy shop building a lot of high end hunting and target rifles for a lot of high end picky customers which expected nothing but the best!
th-cam.com/video/NO9nHPSMDZs/w-d-xo.html
I guess you cant thread to a shoulder with out a relief grove to stop you threading tool in yes hack job for sure.
Too fucking right James!
is cold blue is selenium dioxide..?
I would have to do some research on that, I'm not sure right off hand.
Интересно, у токаря все пальцы еще на месте? Очень смело он стружку на ходу руками хватает
Nice work and vid. Is the gloves not a safety risk?
Chrisjan0 Hey thanks. As far as the gloves, they are tight fitting nitrile gloves that would tear away if they ever got caught, so I'm not worried about it.
How much does something like this usually cost for a customer?
Not here to bust ur balls on safety. Pretty sure people have that whining covered. Is that an old belt drive lathe? If so what size and brand? Thanks
is there a link to your website? Or a place to talk about services that need to be completed?
Thanks
You can email me at precisionmachineshed@gmail.com or check out my facebook page and message me. Thanks
how small a relief cut is best?
+ericbc7
A 3/32" cutter usually works pretty good.
Rule of thumb. Divide 1 by number of threads per inch and to that number add .010 for a thread relief width. Tool shape is straight left side perpendicular to the tip/front and the left side 30 degrees. Stone the two corners to a .010 radius.
Groove in to a diameter slightly smaller than the thread minor diameter.
Every standard thread has a major diameter, minor diameter and pitch diameter. Pitch diameter veries with the class of thread being produced.
All these dimensions and the way to derive them are printed in the " Machinery's Handbook ".
The first thread is generally chamfered 45 degrees, but may be done at 30 degrees.
NOTE: When threading to a shoulder you will have to grind your threading tool to the left side of the tool bit so the point enters the relief area and the left side of the tool does not hit the shoulder. That is something that takes some care and skill and is what being a machinist is all about.
Hope this helps, JIM
Where are you out of?
+J Rob
MN
+Precision Machine Shed Where in MN? I'm in St.Cloud
I'm glad that's not my gun
Me too! I did this video several years ago on the fly with a junk barrel after just getting my first worn out lathe set up. Had a few issues but #1 was a poor (or dull) cutting tool. Before this I always did this work in other gunsmith shops with much nicer lathes and tooling. I've since upgraded all my equipment and always cut nice sharp threads and much smaller back cuts (if needed). Never thought this video would get that much attention, but it did. I should really make an updated video.
the site name really need to be rethought on the precision part
Quick tip, when threading a 5/8 24 TPI, the correct diameter is actually .620". If you do it to .625 the top of the treads will be too sharp and cause them to stick into whatever you put on it
This whole vid is so wrong in so many ways, after 50 years in the trade I see no precision machining here, just danger.....
You must not have seen the new video.
Wow just terrible. “And to finish off the project, I order the customer a new barrel”
I agree! Just the gloves alone make me cringe.
@appleantennasystems instead of issuing a blanket statement of criticism, how about you help educate us on each problem? This type of machining doesn't require much precision.
@@martycat437 Maybe in his day job he's a hand model, and he's protecting his money maker.
As a tool and die maker I would like to point out some things you are doing that are not safe. 1. Never wear gloves while running a lathe. If the gloves get caught, you will get hurt. 2. Do not grab the chips with your fingers, it is a good way to loose a finger. 3. Never stop a lathe chuck with your hand, especially when wearing gloves. The machine is not forgiving. If your hand gets caught, you are in a whole world of hurt. 5. Never reach over the chuck to do you filing. Always work from the front of the chuck. Once again if your arm gets caught, you will be in a world of hurt. Just for clarity, it is not called a back cut, it is called an under cut. I thought I would let you know these things, because I never want anyone to get hurt.
+T Hall
Thanks for your concern!
+T Hall Don't think rubber gloves are going to "pull you in". If you are so concerned, why not make a video on the absolute safest way to do this, then we can critique your methods sir.
+jason fazenbaker I am concerned that perhaps you are of the ilk that has to put your hand in the fire to see if it really will burn you. Stay as far from danger as possible and you greatly increase you chances of remaining whole for life. It only has to go wrong once.
T Hall I'm pretty sure a LaTeX glove won't pull your fingers off :)
Sure it won't, but it will jerk your hand VERY quickly into a fast moving part wedged against a sharp tool........I know I know, you are stronger than a latex glove, but when one is not expecting it your hand will move too fast in the wrong direction.
That's some pretty rough looking threads! Might want to take a lot of advice from comments below and have a red seal machinist teach you a few tricks of the trade to get better and faster results as well as moving over to carbide helps with cleaner cuts in smaller places especially with threading
Joe MacPherson didn't look like the cutter was square to the work either. You will definitely have a wonky thread if your 30 deg cutter is 5 degs off in the tool holder...
Get you some education on rotating equipment my friend before you lose a couple...no gloves
Clough42
knew an old fella that was into precision shooting etc.
Fist time i met him, he had his 6m BR on range. had about a 2inch x about 20 inch long barrel. Asked him why so short, he said a wasp built a nest in the end, so he cut it off with a hacksaw and re-crowned it with a countersink metal bit. then i noticed the cheeky glint in his eye.
Im not a machinist, but even i see some backshed practices going on here. was kinda waiting for that countersink bit to come out.
If I had a dime for every time I read "As a ___________ of [so many years] . . ." as some sort of authoritative lead to a laundry list of TH-cam comments, I could retire tomorrow. It's pathetic and unnecessary.
What many of you should instead be saying to the owner of this TH-cam channel is something along these lines: "As an individual whose lack of self-control is equaled only by my felt need to correct everyone: [insert your uninvited critiques]." After all, it's all about being accurate and correct, right?
It's sickening and happens everywhere on TH-cam
Kinda reminds me of a quote by Will Rogers" There are three kinds of men, one that learns by reading, ones that learn by observation, and others who must pee on the electric fence for themselves" If you have been advised several time by tradesmen with many years of experience, what could you know about safety that they don't? Why not take their advice to live a long and healthy life?
I am not a machinist, but I know as much as this guy. I reckon I have been watching too much of Joe Pie.
This was hard to watch.
Dude, you need a lesson on cutting geometry along with the understanding of proper speeds and feeds. And by the way, never, ever, ever remove stringed chips with your hands while the lathe is running.
Thanks
what lathe is this
El_Caliph I'll assume you'll be making the video to give him the lesson?
The sad part is some people will watch this and learn from it.......
Yea learn what not to do to your barrel if you are not blind.
I worked with a guy like that. he thought he knew everything. he wore gloves, before I could yell at him to tell him to take the FN gloves off he lost Two Fingers. Pulled them right out . at the knuckle at the hand.
I saw the same thing. A fabricator polishing a shaft with gloves on. At least he had something to carry the fingers in when he went to the ER that day. Sick!
@8.0 or so, 'I'm going to slow it down some more, the bit...'. I'm thinking how about lubricate the damn work!
Ah, yes...... how things have changed.
have a look at "@UCZyT56ByloKB3pamMtUV-bQ" and you will see precision in all his videos ,sorry seen no precision in this vid,.hope you do not pretend to be a proffesional machinist
Never seen a barrel where the OD ran true with the bore. Your thread relief groove is way to wide, A 5/8-24 thread should be 5/8 long, not 1/2. then you would not need to shorten your thread protector. My 2 cents.
Wouldn't it have been better to cut the threads at the correct length, instead of cutting the thread protector? Most threads are long enough to put a lock nut and some even come with a spacer washer. Now it's so short that only has option for one style device. Even my 10mm pistol comes with longer thread's.
Dude you are dangerous. Stopping that thing with gloves on. If you would have been working anywhere I did and wore gloves your ass would fired. It only takes a second to get hurt. And it does not matter if they are thin surgical type gloves. Be smart you can wash the oil off your hands.
What is up with people wearing anything on their hands operating a lathe. Bare hands...period. I see it all the time now...afraid to get their hands dirty.
This guy needs to watch AboM79 channel to see how to use machines, measure and cut threads properly
ABSOLUTELY!
what about the crowning
+sea man
In this case, I left the original crown. Another way to do it is to cut a concentric relief cut on the outside edge of the crown. I haven't seen an accuracy diffence so ether way works.
It's all fun and games until the $23.00 Harbor Freight caliper shows up.
Darwin award coming up.lol
5 or 6 a week for a couple years and still you remain totally clueless.
This was the first time on my own machine, which I later found out was totally worn out. I had limited tooling at the time too. After upgrading to nicer machines and tooling everything got back to normal. Prior to this I was in a fully tooled gunsmith shop with everything at my disposal.
My freind i have an heavy barrel AR15 24” stainless still no thread so can you do the work also more info of you SHOP thanks i want to instal an flash suppress THANKS
apexcustomrifles@gmail.com
You should consider pulling this video. It is a poor example of the correct way to thread a barrel.
where’s your dial indicator? Not a well trained machinist...
Right? Im a CNC programmer/machinist (HAAS) obviously he checked runout somehow. Why not use the mag base and indicator for depth of cut. Calipers? I ALWAYS use my mic when inside of .010 🤷🏼♀️
This is an old video. There's an updated version of this video a few years back that is much better. th-cam.com/video/S_dMUM-uUTo/w-d-xo.html
Worst looking thread I've seen cut in 50 years.....
that sounds like a stretch!
At 24.00 you say " Recess cut " ... We call it a Chamfer .
Yeah that was a champher.
I hope this was a personal gun... if I paid money for that I would be pissed
Do you know how to use a lathe ? Learn how to sharpen and use lubricants !
Yep, just figured it out yesterday.
The main reason he wears gloves is so that the ambulance driver can find the fingers easier.
Yep, keeps it from getting dirty when it falls on the floor.
I think the rubber glovers are fine man he looks strong enough that the glove would probably give way before his fingers fell of haha
Gloves and rotating machinery do not go together!
Very unsafe!
That is some rough cut thread.
Dear god they looked like they were cut with a garden rake. Oh I would have been fired 48 years ago when I started training in tooling, for turning in work like that. 30degree thread form tool, compound set at 30degrees(some guys swear by 29degrees), clearanced across the cutting edge 10 degrees on the front edge and about 15degrees across the top. The trailing edge(back edge) should not cut but I have been known to do a wipe at near 0 by moving the saddle (not the compound) about .0002"-.0005" with a well lubed up tool. This has been beneficial on some ornery stainless steel that just resisted finishing nicely. Honestly I have used the same tool for decades so precision of those angle numbers isn't that critical, other than the thread form itself. Tool height EXACTLY on center, Above will rub and tear, below will scrape rather than cut. Good cutting oil or specialty fluid helps. Nice easy slow speed, based on the material you are cutting. Cratex (rubber impregnated with abrasive) type abrasive to polish and remove the wire edge points on the threads. There are many other thread forms used in the world. I am speaking about standard UNC/UNF threading. ACME is quite a bit different as is British Associated, and forget Whitworth which is close to UNC/UNF but not exactly. Proper use of thread wires or if you've got the bucks, a thread measuring micrometer is needed to do threads correctly to size. Just fitting to someone else's work might get this one job done, but might not fit someone else's work you might want to use at a later time. This was for those who said they wanted some constructive advice and not just critiquing the OP's work. And the gloves are a recipe for disaster on any machining process or machine tool. But that's a talk for another time as it involves a lot of detailed discussion. And thanks for the video anyway.
The thread he made looks like KAKA
This is an old video. There's an updated version of this video a few years back that is much better. th-cam.com/video/S_dMUM-uUTo/w-d-xo.html
Why don't all you human resources safety broads lay off.
I cannot find anybody to thread my Beretta model 71 in 22 cal.
For God sake buy a micromiter and the right tools for the job and check your dia once in a while, the only thing you did right was to chuck off the bore.
This is an old video. Things have changed.
Take all your lathe work to someone who knows what they’re doing
This is a lot more complicated than I thought
Those threads look pretty rough.
They were. This was a quick example video. I should have taken and extra minute and made a few more cuts to clean it up. My threads are usually clean and smooth.
@@precisionmachineshed wow so many safety nazis , I thank you for the videos an I know what work goes into filming. sub'ed
Yeah they are chowdered to fuck... You could hear the tool chattering when he was cutting...
That finished thread looks ragged and chipped at 29:48
It wasn't the best finish. This was a quick demo video. I've also since upgraded all my machines and fine tuned the threading finish. This was an old worn out lathe that was not in adjustment and that didn't help either.
You mean cooling and lube solution? Glad you are so liberal
What the hell did I just watch? Those threads are horrible. You actually charge for this?
Check out the updated video.
He is wearing gloves. That is not a good practice for a machinist. Neither is wearing a ring.
Rubber gloves are not likely to pull your hand in. I can't take my ring off so I'm as careful as I can be.
+Mike Dittman Just keep 911 on speed dial. Safety rules are written in blood.
Adam Jeppson lol everyone should be as safe as they can but prepared for the worst. I have a ring on my non dominate hand that I can't always take off what am I to do? Not work when it won't come off?
+Mike Dittman LOL! Up to you, Mike. I never wanted to lose a finger. Or tell the boss I can't work today, because my ring won't come off. LOL!!!
+Mustang Gregg that's the perk of having my own shop. Or danger but when it comes down to it these machines can rip your fingers off if you're not wearing a ring or gloves. It all boils down to running the machines safely and never putting your hands where they can be caught.
As a machinist I don't mean to be rude but those are some shitty threads, tool was dull and it shows...
The lathe was a POS worn out 60 Y.O. machine too that didn't help.
Too much machining after the fact to compensate for not planning or taking accurate dimensions.
Threads were set at 1/2" for a specific muzzle brake. Most thread protectors come in the .625-.650 for 5/8-24, most muzzle devices are .625 when using 5/8-24. I've since changed most of what I do here and the machines. Threads now look like a CNC did them.
I like the video even with all the know-it-all's chiming in at the bottom=_) The only thing I didn't understand was why after this nice job, you cut the thread protector? It felt to me like an artist that didn't know when to stop and call it finished... ???
I didn't want the crown recessed into a threaded protector, which would then cause the inside of the thread protector to become part of the muzzle. Not good for accuracy.
The first word ought to be deleted, or just 'rough' machine shed
All I will ask. Please remove this from youtube. I fear for the young people that actual want to learn the right way. "PEOPLE DONT DO AS HE DID!" THIS IS A WHAT NOT TO DO VIDEO.
don't wear jewelry,, gloves or long sleeves while running a lathe. keep you fingers and hands away from a turn chuck, use the stop.
the use of protective gloves while working metals is always correct and mandatory ... but there are people who like to put their hand in the Chuck while is turning, that is the problem ...
Sorry, but have to give your video a thumbs down. Your "safety" should be priority #1, not an afterthought.
You tuber...$3000.00 lath.
Me.....$30.00 Variable speed drill and hand tap trying to get same results lol
Please, no gloves when using a lathe. You may be safe in your work, but those who watch you and follow your example may needlessly be injured by copying you.
Your under cut is freaking huge almost as big as threads .when you say the bore is with .0002” then your using calipers from harbor freight thread mics are made for a reason and as far as getting wrapped up in your head stock it’s going to happen my friend I don’t know who taught you how to Machine but some things ya just don’t do
outstanding video.. showed all info needed. major and minor dia.. just curious if you'd reveal the o.d for a guide pin for a rem. 700 .308
+Randal Surdyk
Are you referring to the pin I used in the bore? I'm not sure exactly what it is without measuring, but usually I fit each one to each bore if I don't already have one that fits. When I make one they are usually within a few 10 thousands end to end, which in most cases better than the play you get from a range rod with a bushing.
in Germany you had no job
Sehen Sie sich das aktualisierte Video an!
@@scottwilliams8722 😂😂😂
This must be a joke? 😳
Damn if this guy worked for me I would have fired him a long time ago.
I could watch this stuff all day
As someone who knows nothing about machine work... adding to that weak math skills... i found the statement "approximately .578" quite hilarious...and also relatively proximate
For suppressor mounting (including muzzle screw-on accessories), wouldn't overall concentricity between the barrel ID bore and threads, and the perpendicularity of the shoulder to the ID bore, be more precise if the barrel was first mounted between centers - to start from that kind of a setup since a lot of barrel ODs are not concentric with barrel ID bores? Can't remember completely, but I saw a barrel first mounted between centers, where one center was in the receiver end of barrel at the end of the through hole in the lathe gearbox housing and the other center in the end of the barrel where the threads were going to be machined. Don't remember all the steps taken after the centering of the barrel bore, but it would seem to me that setting it up between centers would be more accurate than indicating off of a mandrel stuck partway down the barrel. I was told that setting up between centers would assure everything (threads, shoulder, etc.) machined on the OD of the barrel would guarantee an accurate alignment of the centerline of the suppressor (when mounted) with the ID barrel centerline.
+Dennis Varnau
Well, first, most guys that builds high end benchrest and target rifle are currently cutting barrels similar to how I do it with there being several different variations. I am basically doing the same thing as running between centers, except I'm indicating off the lands on both ends of the barrel with a tight fitting rod and it leaves almost no room for error. When you run between centers, to do it right, you must first cut 60 degree relief cuts in each end. You can do this a few different ways. You can indicate each end as I did, then cut with your compound and cutter of choice. Second, you can chuck it up in a steady rest and then cut each end, third, you can buy a piloted 60 degree cutter, which I have also, and cut your centers there. Only problem with the last two is that in a steady, you are running off the OD, which can be bad even with a floating reamer holder, and using the tight fitting piloted reamer, you still have to have some clearance for that pilot to work correctly.
Would the average guy notice this? No, but when you are shooting at 600-1,000 yards, every little bit helps. There is also the problem on many barrels are not straight! when you run between centers, and you cut your threads, that bullet could be coming out at a slight angle and your brake or whatever you have on there will be off. Again, most guys won't notice. Gordy Gritters a highly respected gunsmith and builder of some extremely accurate rifles only indicates his barrels with the first 4-8" of whatever side he is cutting. He mentioned that sometimes when he indicates his barrels on the chamber end, you can see noticeable run-out on the opposite end and these rifles are match winners!
There are several different ways to go about indicating a barrel, and many of them work well. The guy I learned from was an accomplished BR shooter and traveled the US and Canada in the 60's, 70's and 80's winning a lot of matches. He chambered all of his barrels by chucking one end of the barrel in a 3 jaw chuck, then running out to a steady rest on the OD, threading, then reaming with the reamer held tight in a Jacobs chuck in the tail stock. I actually have a couple of these rifles and I built a few this way and they are all 1/2 MOA or better rifles out past 600 yards! He also had several targets that were 5 shots though one bullet diameter hole witnessed by several friends on his private range! Tell me how that works!
I'm going to be doing a barrel in the next month hopefully if my reamer arrives from PTG, but I have yet to decide which way I will do it. I'm confident to do it any way I want, but just figuring out which one is the problem.
Just saying there's several ways to do it and depending on who you talk to, I do what I do based on other peoples experience, a lot of research, and what I feel works best.
And still got runoutYour only measuring at one point, in effect can often swing eccentric towards breach and have same effect as cutting on the piss.
Thanks for taking the time to make videos There awesome.
You could move that parting tool out a little further. That way you could maintain a C#
This is an old video. There's an updated version of this video a few years back that is much better. th-cam.com/video/S_dMUM-uUTo/w-d-xo.html
The parts sticking out to far.
Considering all the negative stuff on here, i actually like the entire video. I get what some are saying but this was good! Thanks for posting and taking the time to make a good video.
Thanks
enjoyed the vid been a minute since I've been in a machine shop!
Thanks, looks easy enough 😁
The machinist in me thinks your tools are dull and thread length was always taught 1.5 the diameter 🤓
Yeah, Tools were dull.
Measure twice, cut once. Ok for personal use, but cutting the threads short and then cutting the thread protector short to fix the problem for a customer is a no go.
Thank You, Enjoyed the post. Reminded me how much i loved using the lathe in 'Metal Shop' class at school,, back in the day. Pondering the idea of fitting a 'muzzle guard / crown protector' on the 'farm / truck' gun; may be even a 'muzzle brake' , to help wife and mates possibly better enjoy 'plinking' ? I will have your demonstration in mind when asking for quotes on the possible work. Cheers mate.
Sounds good. Thanks for the comments. I may do a better quality remake of this one in the future.
man I can't work with stupid gloves on a lathe you serious???? I need to feel the soul of the machine
30:10 ... You said brake again... lol
Always wanted to learn lathe and mill ops. Never got the chance. Thnks for training session
Lol this guy is really measuring diameters with dg.calipers, i think maybe O.D mics would be more suitable ?
That Thread is rough as f...k!
The middle spit in the die is suppose to be in the middle! That way you have some thread adjustment
If that's "24 tpi" that threaded section must be about 1/3 of an inch long because you've only got 7 to 8 threads there MAX. You also used a "fine thread" pitch gauge for your "24 TPI" when "24 TPI" is NOT "fine thread" for 5/8". It's only "fine thread" for diameters 5/16" and 3/8" and "fine thread" for 5/8" is 18 TPI which is MUCH more believable for your threaded section since its clearly MUCH closer to 1/2 in length than only 1/3 of an inch or less. And that has to be 5/8" if its on a .30-caliber barrel regardless and obviously is NOT 1/2 inch if the "minor diameter" is .560" or whatever minor diameter well in excess of .500" you mentioned. Fine threads are also much "shallower" and proportionately shallower than "coarse threads" for the same major diameter so a "24 TPI" fine thread is "50% shallower" than a "16 TPI" coarse thread. The only way to cut more threads per inch with the same "angle" on the thread profile is to cut them shallower proportionately to their increased count per inch. A thread pitch gauge isn't "accurate" for a non-existent "5/8-24" thread and thread pitch gauges are POINTLESS for checking "threads" that haven't been cut yet by holding them on the "scratch" or "scribe" pass. They're used to measure the thread pitch of EXISTING threads and are found in tap & die sets that only contain "standard" diameters and their "standard" fine and coarse thread taps and dies. And since any given "TPI" can be both a "coarse" thread for one diameter and a "fine" thread for another larger diameter, and its when the diameter DOUBLES that "coarse" for the "half diameter" matches up to "fine" for the doubled diameter (16 TPI is 3/8" NC and 3/4" NF) and the thread depth also doubles, the "match" for 5/8" with a 24 TPI "fine" would be 5/16 "coarse". But 5/16 NC is 18 TPI and not 24 TPI. 24 TPI is 5/16 NF. And like I said, those threads look WAY closer to 18 TPI than 24 TPI which happens to be the "match" so where you're getting "24 TPI" is anybody's guess but its wrong.
5/8x24 is basically the industry standard for 1 of 3 main sizes used for muzzle brakes, and suppressors. A tpi gauge is used on any thread, regardless of fine or course thread.
what is the advantage of using a lathe for this rather than a tap and die set? Other than cutting the diameter for the threads..................
Get rid of the gloves... they serve no purpose apart from a hazard of getting tangled up in the rotating parts. What are you afaid will happen if you touch the metal with your bare hands ?
Thank God for Quick Change Tool Post and tool holders! No chamfer on the end to ease threading?
Yeah, they are nice. No chamfer, but if you wanted to do a really nice one you would recess the threads and match a cap so it is all seamless and invisible.
Which god Bob? I don't think Thor gives a rats ass about your barrel =_)
Master machinist!!! Not.
This is an old video. There's an updated version of this video a few years back that is much better. th-cam.com/video/S_dMUM-uUTo/w-d-xo.html
Please upload your videos and show us how you do it the proper way.. he is a amatuer machinist and i dont recall him saying anything to imply his way is the right way.. its his way.. and i thank him for the content.. now im gonna go make something my way.. why dont you all just go comment on more videos about people doing it wrong... while we actually do it
I'm not a machinist but I did stay at one of those motels?!🤣 But seriously, don't sweat it, just don't be reckless with the hands and digits.
Thought I left a comet but I dont see it. heres another any way!.
I like watching your videos your calm and just being yourself the quality of the video is very good too.
two questions.
On the brass crown lapping tool you made what degree did you use 11 or 60 degree. I would think 11 so it stays closer to the face of the lands
#2 I have a 1940 south bend heavy 10 L what do they have for a spider I can buy for the back of my spindel, and who sells them. I heard reference to it called the spider the thing that holds & adjust the work center in the back of the spindle.
Thank you and thanks for sharing your adventures
Mike
What will you charge to put half inch unf thread on airrifle barrel and cut new crown?