@@ethimself5064 True, and many make comments without having done any oil research. Amsoil or Pennzoil, which wins Championship? Let's find out! Showed Amsoil the best, Redline then Pennzoil Ultra Platinum, which might also be consideder a group IV like Amsoil and Redline.
So, honestly, any currently rated oil on the market is going to be "good". Better than anything from 20 years ago. Besides that, we all have our favorites. I believe Shell makes the bet oils on the market, at least after looking at Used Oil Analyses (UOAs). Shell owns Pennzoil, btw. There are and have been for many years two oils in particular that bring back the hands down BEST UOA's of any oil out there. Shell Rotella T6 5W-40 and Pennzoil Platinum (any weight). I run Pennzoil Platinum 5W-30 in my last and all my family's Mustang GTs with the 4.6 (2v and 3v). I run Rotella T6 5W-40 in my 1986 F-150 5.0 EFI and have for going on 12 years. From 90k miles to 165k miles. I've been HARD on the truck, too. The 5.0 is just indestructible in those years because they make so little power lol. 185 horsepower/270 ft-lbs torque that either gets valve float or rev limiter (It's an SD/Speed Density computer, not sure if they had rev limiters) that stops it at 5500RPM. And the 4" bore x 3" stroke 5.0/302 is known to rev easily, so 5K is usually where I shift it if I'm going WOT and that's nothing. I've towed and hauled thousands of pounds. I've when 4x4'ing in all types of terrain, including mud where you have to floor it to keep moving and clean the mud out of your tread. Tough motor with a great oil. It has the flat tappet cam, and sure, it's a little stock low lift, small duration cam, whatever it may be, but I still wanted that extra zinc/phosphorous that only the HDEOs really offer these days (short of racing oils which I don't need or want to spend money on for a stock 185 horsepower 5.0). (EDIT: OH, BTW, "Made in Germany" oils also tend to have generous amounts of zinc/phosphorous like the German Castrol 0W-30 and the German M1 0W-40, but so does normal M1 0W-40.) The surprising one is my (RIP) little brothers 03 Cobra with a 2.3 liter KB supercharger with a 19psi pulley that put down 603 RWHP. We ran Rotella T6 5W-40 in that and he ran it hard, took it to the drag strip, etc. No issues. People can say what they want about Rotella and the flashpoint this or whatever that.. I've seen decades of UOAs and I've seen about 12 years of IRL experience with Rotella T6 5W-40. I tried it in my grandma (also RIP) now my 2000 Buick Park Ave with the 3800II but it was too thick and there was a slight, single tick tick tick that'd go on with it in there. So I went back to Pennzoil Platinum 5W-30. The Rotella T6 5W-40 has rejuvenated seals in my 1986 F-150. I am the second owner. The Original Owner ran Kendall GT-1 in it. 3k mile OCIs. He kept ALL the paperwork for everything... belts, hoses, oil changes, etc. I still got it for the truck. I won't go to hard on that oil because it was the 80's... but man, that engine was DIRTY on the inside. The Rotella T6 5W-40 has had some non-stop sludge cleaning to do ever since I bought the dang thing. But oil consumption has dropped to less than a quart in 2000 miles, whereas it was a quart every 800 or so. The oil spots on the ground are gone. The valve covers are all goopy around the sides from where they were leaking but apparently they have stopped. There's a leak in the valve cover on cylinder 8, that's it, now. If it sits for 3-5 months, it'll blow a little smoke out. Drive it daily or once a week. It starts up without ANY smoke. I mean, that's a testament to the Ford 5.0 EFI AND the Rotella T6 5W-40 if you ask me. BTW, Rotella T6 5W-40 starts at around 14.5-15 cst @ 100C and shears down to 13.5 cst and stays there after about 1500 miles. I like that because that's exactly where I want my viscosity for my truck. Other definitely honorable mentions for true high performance oils would have to be the old "GC" German Castrol 0W-30 and Mobil1 0W-40. German Castrol 0W-30 (made in Germany) is a THICK 30 weight and it does not shear down at all. It's around 13cst @ 100C and it will stay there until you dump it. The further apart you can get the numbers, the more synthetic and the higher quality synthetic the oil is. For example... a 0W-40 has more quality synthetic than a 15W-40 "synthetic" oil. It requires more real synthetic to get that kind of grade range. But also, if you're driving a car with 100k miles or more, don't be afraid to use a good high mileage oil. It really will help rejuvenate your seals and reverse that oil consumption and possibly small leaks. Pennzoil Synthetic High Mileage 5W-30 is a great choice. I've seen it work magic in cars that were consuming oil with no leaks and no visible smoke. Mobil1 has a good name (thanks to advertising) and it is not a bad oil, don't get me wrong. But it never brings in the best UOAs on vehicles. Always high iron wear. The only good one is the 0W-40. Stop using 0W-20/5W-20 in your cars. That is NOT because it's best for your car. That is due to EPA regulations and reducing emissions/increasing fuel economy by less than 1%. It adds up when there's millions of cars, but the longevity and protection of your engine is the last thing on their mind about all these cars recommending 5W-20/0W-20. The SAME engine in Australia will call for a 40 weight or 50 weight. That's how you know it's BS. Don't overthink it. 20 weight = around 7.5cst @ 100C, 30 weight 8-12ish cst @ 100C, 40 weight is 13-15.5ish cst @ 100C. What are they when they start up? A 0W-20 is going to be around 50cst minimum. 5W-30 is going to be around 75cst. This is at 40C, not even actual start up temps for everyone. A "thicker" oil is not "too thick" for your car. Any oil is 6-8-10+ times as thick at start up as a 40 weight is at operating temp. That ain't blowing your engine up. There is one thing and one thing only that I've seen from UOA's about thick vs thin. Yes, the Ford 4.6 does get good results with 5W-20 Pennzoil Platinum, but it gets the same perfect results with 5W-30 Pennzoil Plat. Which one is gonna protect your engine better on a 90F day when you're banging through the gears, though? Running it to 6K RPM? How about the 5.0 Coyote? How thin does that oil get when it hits 230-240F? Too thin, that's what. You will never hurt your car with a thicker oil. That's all. I'll shut up.
This review is useless. Search Amsoil or Pennzoil, which wins Championship? Let's find out! Amsoil is number 1, Redline number 2, and both are group IV oils.
most oils meet specs ... lube breakdown is seldom the problem ... owner failure to pay attention and bad judgement to follow stupid, extended change periods is the biggest problem. Dirt and contamination is the problem. Use good oil and CHANGE IT max 5k miles.
5K is too soon for synthetic in my opinion. 6K minimum and up to 8K. Depends on the engine and type of driving. I've seen UOAs of oil come back just fine after 12k miles of mostly highway driving. Me? I'll run my synthetic 8K miles or 1 year, whichever comes first. It's meant to be ran longer.
I wonder how this guy reached the conclusion as to why these oils are the best, he seems to be just reading the manufacturers blurb. I wonder what the "Motor Oil Geek" would say?
I use motor oil geeks brand oil in my car. It's called driven motor oil. For some reason I'm 1000% addicted to oil geeks channel. I use the GP-1 0W-20 the last 3 oil changes. I only ever used motul 300v competition 0w-20. The motul is amazing oil, truly amazing, but when I switched to driven I knew my car was going to be protected for sure. I trust the oil geek and I believe he formulated the best oil in the world when he made GP-1!!!! CHANGE MY MIND! LOL
these are great oils. So is Royal Purple, Amsoil, Redline and that doesn't get into the European oils like Motul, liquimoly and many others. The "best" oils is highly subjective and no unbiased expert will say one is better than others. The "best" oils are the ones recommended by your manual and have the latest ratings.
@@datsuntoyy Because the "best" oil isn't the one recommended by your manual. They all want you putting xW-20 in there because of the EPA these days. The SAME engine in Australia will call for a 40 or 50 weight in their owner's manual. Why? They don't have the US EPA cracking down on emissions. They just put what's best for the engine. Thicker > thinner for protection, like it or not.
@@JustAGuy85 I see the best oils and viscosities of oils as two different things. There is no best oil because one may perform better in one category and others perform in a better category. That being said, I do agree with the weight comment, we use too thin of oils here in the US.
I still change my engine oil every 3,000 miles. Nothing else to do as a retiree. Besides, my dogs like to crawl under the car and watch me drain the oil.
What is a "Game-Changer"? Is that like a CD-changer for game consoles? I don't understand why this is important with engine oils. Game consoles don't use engine oils! You are taking all your information from reading the labels on the oil containers. There is no testing here. Just BS, that's all!!!
The NAD gave them the right to call them synthetic, so we're stuck with it. I do wish they were required to state if it's a group III or group IV oil though. Hard to know which ones are group IV, so far, I know Amsoil, Redline, and Triax for sure.
Synthetic oil is a scam. To get people to pay, 'twice' as much. Conventional oil works just as well. Been using it my entire life with no issues. It's a mindset that causes people to overspend. & big corporations love it, when you think that way. But feel free, to spend your money however you wish!! 💸💸
@@lonniebeal6032 Don't tell me, what I know, or don't know. You don't know me from Adam. Or my background & experiences. And you sure as hell don't know my finances. But like I said. Spend "YOUR" money however you wish!!! You want to believe. Big tech & corporation doctored statistic. Go right ahead!!
@@lonniebeal6032 you reply to him not using synthetic oil by recommending him using a conventional oil. Group 3 is crude based. Next time you tell someone to do research, do it yourself first.
Synthetic oil is a game changer providing all the short cuts haven’t been taken to make it sell cheap. A good true synthetic oil has no competition. Can a good synthetic oil go 30 thousand miles , easily. I still change my oil at 2500 miles because my great great grand father did ,my great grand father did ,my grand father did, my dad did, besides it’s cheaper than an engine. Makes me laugh when I hear this. Why should oil not change over years like anything else. I still remember agriculture engineers trying to figure out why their engines weren’t lasting. They finally figured it out. Oil wasn’t doing its job in a very few short years ce oil went to cj . They thought they could use the same oil as trucks were using in near perfect conditions , compared to an agriculture tractors conditions. Yes there is a caution out there someone will make a synthetic oil to meet minimum specs to sell for Walmarts Ect.
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Great advertisement for the brands, but lacking hard laboratory oil analysis in head-to-head comparison in real world use.
Thank you!
You left out the best Amsoil.
He sure did. Many people are fooled by the difference between - Full Synthetic and 100% Synthetic
@@ethimself5064 True, and many make comments without having done any oil research. Amsoil or Pennzoil, which wins Championship? Let's find out! Showed Amsoil the best, Redline then Pennzoil Ultra Platinum, which might also be consideder a group IV like Amsoil and Redline.
That and the robot voice tells me this is a paid for ad. There are better boutique oils than Amsoil but too expensive for the GP(me).
@@robertjackson7590 Better you say? Do tell.
So, honestly, any currently rated oil on the market is going to be "good". Better than anything from 20 years ago.
Besides that, we all have our favorites. I believe Shell makes the bet oils on the market, at least after looking at Used Oil Analyses (UOAs).
Shell owns Pennzoil, btw. There are and have been for many years two oils in particular that bring back the hands down BEST UOA's of any oil out there.
Shell Rotella T6 5W-40 and Pennzoil Platinum (any weight).
I run Pennzoil Platinum 5W-30 in my last and all my family's Mustang GTs with the 4.6 (2v and 3v).
I run Rotella T6 5W-40 in my 1986 F-150 5.0 EFI and have for going on 12 years. From 90k miles to 165k miles. I've been HARD on the truck, too. The 5.0 is just indestructible in those years because they make so little power lol. 185 horsepower/270 ft-lbs torque that either gets valve float or rev limiter (It's an SD/Speed Density computer, not sure if they had rev limiters) that stops it at 5500RPM. And the 4" bore x 3" stroke 5.0/302 is known to rev easily, so 5K is usually where I shift it if I'm going WOT and that's nothing. I've towed and hauled thousands of pounds. I've when 4x4'ing in all types of terrain, including mud where you have to floor it to keep moving and clean the mud out of your tread. Tough motor with a great oil. It has the flat tappet cam, and sure, it's a little stock low lift, small duration cam, whatever it may be, but I still wanted that extra zinc/phosphorous that only the HDEOs really offer these days (short of racing oils which I don't need or want to spend money on for a stock 185 horsepower 5.0). (EDIT: OH, BTW, "Made in Germany" oils also tend to have generous amounts of zinc/phosphorous like the German Castrol 0W-30 and the German M1 0W-40, but so does normal M1 0W-40.)
The surprising one is my (RIP) little brothers 03 Cobra with a 2.3 liter KB supercharger with a 19psi pulley that put down 603 RWHP. We ran Rotella T6 5W-40 in that and he ran it hard, took it to the drag strip, etc. No issues.
People can say what they want about Rotella and the flashpoint this or whatever that.. I've seen decades of UOAs and I've seen about 12 years of IRL experience with Rotella T6 5W-40. I tried it in my grandma (also RIP) now my 2000 Buick Park Ave with the 3800II but it was too thick and there was a slight, single tick tick tick that'd go on with it in there. So I went back to Pennzoil Platinum 5W-30.
The Rotella T6 5W-40 has rejuvenated seals in my 1986 F-150. I am the second owner. The Original Owner ran Kendall GT-1 in it. 3k mile OCIs. He kept ALL the paperwork for everything... belts, hoses, oil changes, etc. I still got it for the truck. I won't go to hard on that oil because it was the 80's... but man, that engine was DIRTY on the inside. The Rotella T6 5W-40 has had some non-stop sludge cleaning to do ever since I bought the dang thing. But oil consumption has dropped to less than a quart in 2000 miles, whereas it was a quart every 800 or so. The oil spots on the ground are gone. The valve covers are all goopy around the sides from where they were leaking but apparently they have stopped. There's a leak in the valve cover on cylinder 8, that's it, now. If it sits for 3-5 months, it'll blow a little smoke out. Drive it daily or once a week. It starts up without ANY smoke.
I mean, that's a testament to the Ford 5.0 EFI AND the Rotella T6 5W-40 if you ask me. BTW, Rotella T6 5W-40 starts at around 14.5-15 cst @ 100C and shears down to 13.5 cst and stays there after about 1500 miles. I like that because that's exactly where I want my viscosity for my truck.
Other definitely honorable mentions for true high performance oils would have to be the old "GC" German Castrol 0W-30 and Mobil1 0W-40. German Castrol 0W-30 (made in Germany) is a THICK 30 weight and it does not shear down at all. It's around 13cst @ 100C and it will stay there until you dump it.
The further apart you can get the numbers, the more synthetic and the higher quality synthetic the oil is. For example... a 0W-40 has more quality synthetic than a 15W-40 "synthetic" oil. It requires more real synthetic to get that kind of grade range.
But also, if you're driving a car with 100k miles or more, don't be afraid to use a good high mileage oil. It really will help rejuvenate your seals and reverse that oil consumption and possibly small leaks. Pennzoil Synthetic High Mileage 5W-30 is a great choice. I've seen it work magic in cars that were consuming oil with no leaks and no visible smoke.
Mobil1 has a good name (thanks to advertising) and it is not a bad oil, don't get me wrong. But it never brings in the best UOAs on vehicles. Always high iron wear. The only good one is the 0W-40.
Stop using 0W-20/5W-20 in your cars. That is NOT because it's best for your car. That is due to EPA regulations and reducing emissions/increasing fuel economy by less than 1%. It adds up when there's millions of cars, but the longevity and protection of your engine is the last thing on their mind about all these cars recommending 5W-20/0W-20.
The SAME engine in Australia will call for a 40 weight or 50 weight. That's how you know it's BS.
Don't overthink it. 20 weight = around 7.5cst @ 100C, 30 weight 8-12ish cst @ 100C, 40 weight is 13-15.5ish cst @ 100C. What are they when they start up? A 0W-20 is going to be around 50cst minimum. 5W-30 is going to be around 75cst. This is at 40C, not even actual start up temps for everyone.
A "thicker" oil is not "too thick" for your car. Any oil is 6-8-10+ times as thick at start up as a 40 weight is at operating temp. That ain't blowing your engine up.
There is one thing and one thing only that I've seen from UOA's about thick vs thin. Yes, the Ford 4.6 does get good results with 5W-20 Pennzoil Platinum, but it gets the same perfect results with 5W-30 Pennzoil Plat. Which one is gonna protect your engine better on a 90F day when you're banging through the gears, though? Running it to 6K RPM? How about the 5.0 Coyote? How thin does that oil get when it hits 230-240F? Too thin, that's what.
You will never hurt your car with a thicker oil. That's all. I'll shut up.
YSE! MOBIL 1 RULES!
I use Mobile 1, but I question this since Amsoil and Redline weren’t on the list.
This review is useless. Search Amsoil or Pennzoil, which wins Championship? Let's find out! Amsoil is number 1, Redline number 2, and both are group IV oils.
most oils meet specs ... lube breakdown is seldom the problem ... owner failure to pay attention and bad judgement to follow stupid, extended change periods is the biggest problem. Dirt and contamination is the problem. Use good oil and CHANGE IT max 5k miles.
@@burkepete110 it’s been proven in high performance engines, oil can sheer in under a 1,000 miles if pushed hard enough.
Actually, six months or 5,000 miles, whichever occurs first. Oil & filters are cheap, and engine repairs are expensive, period!
@@randy74989 I couldn't agree more with this.
Too often oil 🛢 changes are not needed. Save your 💸 💰 🤑 💲 💵 💸 💰 🤑
5K is too soon for synthetic in my opinion. 6K minimum and up to 8K. Depends on the engine and type of driving. I've seen UOAs of oil come back just fine after 12k miles of mostly highway driving. Me? I'll run my synthetic 8K miles or 1 year, whichever comes first. It's meant to be ran longer.
Synthetic oil is so thin that it’s difficult to read it on the dipstick. Have to wait until the oil gets dirty.
So, this is just clickbait with no testing.
Yup, search Amsoil or Pennzoil, which wins Championship? Let's find out!
I go by price and not by brand. Kirkland is for me.
I've beat Costcos prices, two 5 qt. jugs from Ebay of Supertech Full Synthetics for $34.
I wonder how this guy reached the conclusion as to why these oils are the best, he seems to be just reading the manufacturers blurb. I wonder what the "Motor Oil Geek" would say?
I agree.... this is horrible content. Total 🤡.
Without and actual oil analysis, it's pretty much a useless review.
I use motor oil geeks brand oil in my car. It's called driven motor oil. For some reason I'm 1000% addicted to oil geeks channel. I use the GP-1 0W-20 the last 3 oil changes. I only ever used motul 300v competition 0w-20. The motul is amazing oil, truly amazing, but when I switched to driven I knew my car was going to be protected for sure. I trust the oil geek and I believe he formulated the best oil in the world when he made GP-1!!!! CHANGE MY MIND! LOL
It's definitely stupid content of a guy reading the labels off of oil, but it's fun to talk about oil in the comment section lol.
these are great oils. So is Royal Purple, Amsoil, Redline and that doesn't get into the European oils like Motul, liquimoly and many others. The "best" oils is highly subjective and no unbiased expert will say one is better than others. The "best" oils are the ones recommended by your manual and have the latest ratings.
Says the guy who's done no oil research.
@@lonniebeal6032 where do you make that ignorant assumption from? Some people just like to make up their own BS. Time for you do to some research.
@@datsuntoyy Because the "best" oil isn't the one recommended by your manual. They all want you putting xW-20 in there because of the EPA these days. The SAME engine in Australia will call for a 40 or 50 weight in their owner's manual. Why? They don't have the US EPA cracking down on emissions. They just put what's best for the engine. Thicker > thinner for protection, like it or not.
@@JustAGuy85 I see the best oils and viscosities of oils as two different things. There is no best oil because one may perform better in one category and others perform in a better category.
That being said, I do agree with the weight comment, we use too thin of oils here in the US.
@@datsuntoyy Yeah, agreed.
I'd like to know if Pennzoil Ultra Platinum is better than K&N oil.
Probably. Search Amsoil or Pennzoil, which wins Championship? Let's find out!
@@lonniebeal6032Amsoil may have won that competition, but for my money, I’ll go with the Pennzoil Ultra Platinum any day!
I go by the viscosity and the API SP rating. Not brand name.
This could very well be a big mistake in time
@@ethimself5064 👍The military buys bulk oil from various suppliers. You need a grade that is compatible with each other.
@@ethimself5064 Not if he's sticking to group III synthetics, he'll be fine with any of them.
I have been using mobile one for years My personal favorite
Nothing wrong with any group III oil. Certain cars may not like certain oils, but group III is always better than group II.
I still change my engine oil every 3,000 miles. Nothing else to do as a retiree. Besides, my dogs like to crawl under the car and watch me drain the oil.
Waste of money, go ahead.
@@lonniebeal6032 👍My neighbor takes my used oil for his car.
Thanks for sharing
What is a "Game-Changer"? Is that like a CD-changer for game consoles? I don't understand why this is important with engine oils. Game consoles don't use engine oils!
You are taking all your information from reading the labels on the oil containers. There is no testing here. Just BS, that's all!!!
Just one problem with this video. Not one of them is synthetic. All these oils shown are group 3 hydrocracked mineral oils.
The NAD gave them the right to call them synthetic, so we're stuck with it. I do wish they were required to state if it's a group III or group IV oil though. Hard to know which ones are group IV, so far, I know Amsoil, Redline, and Triax for sure.
Links to the Best Synthetic Oils 2024
⭐ 1. Mobil 1 High Mileage
yourpicked.com/best-synthetic-oils/#_1_Mobil_1_High_Mileage
⭐ 2. Valvoline Advanced
yourpicked.com/best-synthetic-oils/#_2_Valvoline_Advanced
⭐ 3. Castrol Edge
yourpicked.com/best-synthetic-oils/#_3_Castrol_Edge
⭐ 4. Pennzoil Ultra Platinum
yourpicked.com/best-synthetic-oils/#_4_Pennzoil_Ultra_Platinum
⭐ 5. Shell Rotella T6
yourpicked.com/best-synthetic-oils/#_5_Shell_Rotella_T6
What about Redline and Amsoil , royal purple ?
This video is boguss !!
Best for Walmart maybe.
99.999% of this video is simply advertising claims. He is a tool.
your a freakin robot what do you know get under the car and rub the oil between your fingers after 10k miles and feel the grit in the oil
Is it just me but did anyone notice the narrator switch between an American accent and an Australian. Wtf 1:40
That was crap.
Triple X bull shi..
I to not agree
Amsoil still leads miles ahead and unequalled to this day.
Without Amsoil inventing it there would be no synthetic oil to this day
No science!!!u want goood oil buy shaffers or amsoil done!
Nope, Amsoil, Redline, Pennzoil Ultra top three tested here. Amsoil or Pennzoil, which wins Championship? Let's find out!
Synthetic oil is a scam. To get people to pay, 'twice' as much. Conventional oil works just as well. Been using it my entire life with no issues. It's a mindset that causes people to overspend. & big corporations love it, when you think that way. But feel free, to spend your money however you wish!! 💸💸
You've done zero research, and spending $2 or $3 dollars more for 5 qts of group III oil isn't going to break the bank.
@@lonniebeal6032 Don't tell me, what I know, or don't know. You don't know me from Adam. Or my background & experiences. And you sure as hell don't know my finances. But like I said. Spend "YOUR" money however you wish!!! You want to believe. Big tech & corporation doctored statistic. Go right ahead!!
@@lonniebeal6032 you reply to him not using synthetic oil by recommending him using a conventional oil. Group 3 is crude based. Next time you tell someone to do research, do it yourself first.
Synthetic oil is a game changer providing all the short cuts haven’t been taken to make it sell cheap. A good true synthetic oil has no competition. Can a good synthetic oil go 30 thousand miles , easily. I still change my oil at 2500 miles because my great great grand father did ,my great grand father did ,my grand father did, my dad did, besides it’s cheaper than an engine. Makes me laugh when I hear this. Why should oil not change over years like anything else. I still remember agriculture engineers trying to figure out why their engines weren’t lasting. They finally figured it out. Oil wasn’t doing its job in a very few short years ce oil went to cj . They thought they could use the same oil as trucks were using in near perfect conditions , compared to an agriculture tractors conditions. Yes there is a caution out there someone will make a synthetic oil to meet minimum specs to sell for Walmarts Ect.