You mentioned the housing having rust. For fishing reels I have been using a 50/50 mix of white vinegar and water and soaking the metal parts even if they have plating and it works incredibly well. No sanding or steel wool if I can avoid it. Just a thought.
Great video with clear, systematic layout of resto-mod proposals. I was wondering if there is much that can be done with the original chassis? Bead blasting and powder coating or chroming? If I were doing this project I'd give a bit more consideration to another of the tubes4hifi options. Specifically, I might use just their driver board, which is a much improved modernization compared to the original. It can be run in pentode or triode mode (switchable on the fly), and has bias pots (which might save the need for new, matched tubes). Just a thought.
I,d buy the chassis and make a top out of brass door kick from home depot and build up some maple or walnut frames. I,d love a pair of mklll or mk lv,s
With all the new parts you might as well change the title from restoration part 1 to building a new amp part one. I have no problem believing you when you say the new boards make everything great sounding, but when doing a restoration the point should be to keep everything as original a possible. New parts old setup and a little polish and paint, replacing the cracked board with a reproduction.. Otherwise it's effectively a "mark whatever" not a mark 3 and will not sound like one to! (if that is good or bad is a matter of taste). The only thing staying original are the transformers.... Sorry for the minor rant, I do like the video as a build video. Also the cost breakdown is nice and not something many video makers do.
The overall cost equals 2 brand new DynaKit Mark IIIs which admittedly use better parts except for the original transformers and chokes. Take your pick.
Once you modify a Dynaco Mk 3, its no longer a Dynaco Mk 3. Ebay's full of jacked up amateur homebrews. I'd rather have a rusty original with a lamp cord and dented bells then a hack that someone tried to put an IEC jack on or a driver board mod with amateur soldering. There's repro kits. They're rust free- stainless. Mod them. I wanted a nice one so I built repro's. Please leave the originals alone.
Your videos inspired me to fix up my dad's old Mark IIIs and they sound incredible!
Nice job Mark. Those are a couple of my favorite amplifiers.
Cool project looking forward to next video
You mentioned the housing having rust. For fishing reels I have been using a 50/50 mix of white vinegar and water and soaking the metal parts even if they have plating and it works incredibly well. No sanding or steel wool if I can avoid it. Just a thought.
Great video with clear, systematic layout of resto-mod proposals. I was wondering if there is much that can be done with the original chassis? Bead blasting and powder coating or chroming? If I were doing this project I'd give a bit more consideration to another of the tubes4hifi options. Specifically, I might use just their driver board, which is a much improved modernization compared to the original. It can be run in pentode or triode mode (switchable on the fly), and has bias pots (which might save the need for new, matched tubes). Just a thought.
I,d buy the chassis and make a top out of brass door kick from home depot and build up some maple or walnut frames. I,d love a pair of mklll or mk lv,s
Mark,
You showed some teflon tubing that you use for wire insulation on components. Where can I get it and what size is it?
go on ebay, search for PTFE Tubing. I use 3 sizes, .7mm, .9mm, 1.1mm. a seller "atop_authentic_auction" is where I normally get it from.
Hi Mark. I too am interested. Do you get the regular PTFE tubing or the rigid from this seller? Thanks.
how much you build a complete unit?
$69.95 per amp in kit form in the 60's.
With all the new parts you might as well change the title from restoration part 1 to building a new amp part one. I have no problem believing you when you say the new boards make everything great sounding, but when doing a restoration the point should be to keep everything as original a possible. New parts old setup and a little polish and paint, replacing the cracked board with a reproduction.. Otherwise it's effectively a "mark whatever" not a mark 3 and will not sound like one to! (if that is good or bad is a matter of taste). The only thing staying original are the transformers.... Sorry for the minor rant, I do like the video as a build video. Also the cost breakdown is nice and not something many video makers do.
The overall cost equals 2 brand new DynaKit Mark IIIs which admittedly use better parts except for the original transformers and chokes. Take your pick.
Once you modify a Dynaco Mk 3, its no longer a Dynaco Mk 3. Ebay's full of jacked up amateur homebrews. I'd rather have a rusty original with a lamp cord and dented bells then a hack that someone tried to put an IEC jack on or a driver board mod with amateur soldering.
There's repro kits. They're rust free- stainless. Mod them. I wanted a nice one so I built repro's. Please leave the originals alone.