VF750 V45 Honda Magna Clutch Pushrod Seal Replacement Trick
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 19 ต.ค. 2024
- The other way is taking the motor apart. V45s get ditched for this leak. Quick fix but it will scar the case. Watch Eric the American learn how to film. Sorry about the bad ratio.
My brother you’re video has saved me …. I just wanted to let you know that. Fixed because of your video!!!!!
Thanks for letting me know and thanks for watching!
I took that part off, laid on bench table, removed old seal, cleaned it up and installed new seal, way easier.
Are you just talking about the clutch push rod cylinder from your latest video? If so, that isn't what this video is about. "That part" doesn't just come off like you said.
@@erictheamerican guess I’m confused or maybe it’s different on your bike. That part looks just like mine and it does come off on my 85 Nighthawk. Glad it worked for you.
@@erictheamerican th-cam.com/video/_O1rSo-5p4o/w-d-xo.html
Hey Eric, I made another video with my 1985 650 Nighthawk with it on the engine and removed if interested, would like to know if your bike is different, thanks,Roy
It is different. I wish that seal was on the back side of my clutch caliper and it came out with it! Thanks for showing how easy it is with other bikes and how real the strughle is with a late model Honda Magna/Sabre.
@@erictheamerican yes, mine was easier but did need help from a friend cause I had never done it before. Hope to fully install mine today.
I'm gonna do the keyhole method today.
I'm hoping all these vids for pre 87 bikes will work on my 1987 Super Magna and that they didn't change the setup re: this seal too much.
Weird thing is, my clutch reservoir has been randomly dropping for a few years but NEVER had any visible leaks till last September.
No idea where it all went!
82 to 86 atr the same. Not sure if the super is and I don't know if the 87 is the same.
Did you check the oil for signs of hydrolic/brake fluid??
@@erictheamerican
No. How can you spot it? I pull the stick and it looks fine.
I'm sure there's some in there based on the condition of this seal though.
$18/quart Royal Purple I put in last spring.
Arghh
Seems to be based on the part number. The case looks different as it has a shaft drive but I got it off.
4 years ago I put int he wrong fluid the first time it dropped and the seal that's in there is FEKT and in pieces.
I was gonna go in the big bike show this weekend but nope: The seal that the exterior end of the rod fits into, in the clutch housing: Also borked.
Don't see any tutorials on how to get that anywhere nor can I find the parts or schematics for that part of the bike anywhere, even Partszilla doesn't show it int eh fiches they have.
@@ROOKTABULA brake fluid/hydrolic fluid is heavier than motor oil. If you drain the oil it will sit below the oil.
I would try to catch the first quart that comes out in a clear bottle and look to see if it separated. This will also be a good way to find metal shavings by waiting and looking at the bottom of the bottle.
@@erictheamerican Good Idea mate. I'll give that a go. See how much of any of in there and try salvage the oil
@@erictheamerican I just realized, the most crucial part of this: Getting the new seal in is missing from your vid. I've read everything on the V4 forums where I just found your vid on page 3.
I had to use a bit of grease and a rubber mallet to gently put the seal into the casing but pulling it in place:
Utterly destroyed the hole.
push rod flopped around like crazy once the new seal was in place.
I read a few people saying it takes 2 or 3 attempts to get the seal in without fecking it.
Any tips, other than shortening the allen wrench?
T'anx!
I pulled my driveshaft and then the gearcase off to replace mine from the backside of the case. You do need to remove the shift shaft from the other side to get the gearcase off. Be careful when taking the gearcase off and don't get impatient and start prying and breaking stuff. A little more work but it's done right with no grinding the gearcases.
Excellent video... just fyi make sure you dremel the 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock position, this is important to positioning the seal in the right spot. I'm going to bounce around in my explanations so be patient. I'm going to say the seal is a quarter and heads would be the flat side and tails would be the cupped side. Use caution with the dremel because the parts that seal are the hole in the middle and the serrated edge of the quarter so those notches made are not important for sealing oil, only the 2 areas mentioned above are important so keep the dremel away from that area. When you're done notching it out feel for burs and obstructions, also feel how the seal well go in. Notice a lip about an eighth of an in inside on the right side. Keep that in mind when inserting the new seal. You need a strong tool to pull in place. I made a hook out of one end of a bungee strap. You can bend the hook area to fit your application but keep the spiral end on the other end of the hook as a handle or something to grab on to. Place the seal into the notched area heads to the front of the bike. When inserted ,turn the seal so heads is facing out and serrated edge goes in at the rear first as I explained earlier. Now carefully pull like hell on the left side as the video says. You may want to tap the right side in a little bit to help the left side go in smoothly but saying smoothly is misleading. It's a tight forced fit that will seal if you do it right. Good luck.
I'll save everyone some time and save their mechanics a headache. STOP FUCKING DREMELLING FOR THIS SEAL. It ruins the seating for new seals, shortens the life of future seals and makes my job a nightmare when I gotta tell you there's shavings in your pan. Stop it, just stop, you all think you're not ruining anything but I've seen it so many times in my shop, stop. Just apply red grease to help the seating. If that's confusing then bring it to a shop. DO NOT DREMMEL A PRECISION SEAT.
@garrysanderson5793 did you even watch the video? I hope your job doesn't need attention to detail! What you described in this comment does not apply to what this video is about. I hope you find happiness because you seem like a bitter person.
@@erictheamerican go ahead and fuck your bike up. Not my problem til it rolls into my shop
Dude! Your the only video I found on this! 🙌🏿 thx 🤘🏿💯🤙🏿
That is why I made the video! Glad you found it useful.
@@erictheamerican just ordered the part, we’ll see how it goes once I get it!
Thanks for putting this video up man.
I'm happy you found it!
It just dawned on me as I'm dremelling the first half of the key slots, (and am wondering how deep to go because the flange IS slightly different on mine:
Why is everyone taking the risk on pushing the old one _in_ to the block?
Why not just gut the inner opening of the old seal in a few spots so it can be just pulled out?
I have the same problem, but here i find the solution, easy and fast.
Just have one queston is the same sices that the 1100? Of the seal ?
The part number has the 1100 and the 750 and many more in the list of compatible bikes.
This one particular seal is the entire selling point for yamaha UJM bikes. No other brand let you change that seal so easily like the maxim/seca lineup.
I wish you recorded you putting it in because im not fully understanding
Cut the key holes. Slide the seal in sideways. Pull it up to the wall of the case. Putting the back(of the bike) side in first because it has a small lip there. Ask me anything else you aren’t sure about.
How long did it take to get the seal in place? Was it a pain in the ass?
It was a rough time pulling it through. I used a cut allen wrench and vuse grips. Another guy used a bungee cord hook with the coil to grab and pull with. You have to seat it in the chunk of aluminium on the right side and pull on the left.
@@erictheamerican thanks. 4 seal later I got it in place. Thank u tho. Was a helpful video for sure!!
What is the part number? All I can find is the one that goes into the slave cylinder
So how did you end up getting it out?
After making the key hole I used needle nose pliers and ended up pulling all the rubber off and then the internal metal support ring. It was then able to bend into a half circle to be removed. Then I could see that my first go at the key hole wasn't large enough.
I got the old one out and new one through the key hole. I am having a bear of a time to get the new one turned and pulled back to the sitting area. How did you get it set?
I used that cut Allen wrench and a pair of vice grips to pull.
The cavity has a small indent on the rear end of the hole that will need to be set first. Then pull the front side with the Allen wrench.
@@erictheamerican sweet! It worked! Thanks for the video.
Wow!
Like Wow as in cool, or wow like that's wrong? Not looking for a fight just wondering about the general consensus.
@@erictheamerican Wow in like, I didnt know you could do it this way. How has it performed for you? I beleive I have to replace mine but not sure if I want to do it this way or disassemble everything.
@@erictheamerican Also is there somthing behind the seal that would keep it from falling into the engine? Or do you just have to be very careful to not drop it in there?
@@darianmedeiros7541 Not a drop of oil as of yet. I think it will be fine as the main weak point is the area that the clutch shaft goes through the seal, not the area where it meets the case.
I thought that would happen too! It can be retrieved if it falls in but the little pieces may work into an unreachable area. Special note: looking directly at the seal from the side of the bike, the right side has a lip that will hold it on the inside from going inside. So don't dig a key hole there. Make the key holes at the top and bottom.
Why didn't you just take the case cover off?
I would have had to take it apart from the other side first, and needed to remove the back swingarm and the drive parts from the trans. This felt like an easier way.
I cant find seal
Look up honda part number
91204-MBO-013
On Amazon, ebay...
Ovako rade oni koji ne znaju Pravi postupak je sve rastaviti i bez unistavanja
Thanks for the comment on how I fix things like a idiot! This is a short cut and it works! Not a drop of oil has come out of it! Maybe when you do, or create, more than just negative comments with a keyboard I can critique your videos. But you have nothing!!!