Nice job with ECU, my friends had same problem but they just added a new ECU, but by watching your video, I've learnt that capacitors have life line of 10 years or so...Thanks for video, Jehuty77...!!!
Great video thanks, I had he same issue. These capacitors made it into all kinds of electrical devices in the early 90s, I replaced leaky ones in my TV also.
My silvertop have the same problem, checked the ECU for back caps but everything is fine, checked for error codes, just a Bad O2 Sensor but still wont rev past 4k rpm. Planning to convert for BT ECU and change to whole wiring harness and do a complete engine rebuild.
hey kenny i have a black 4age an it wont rev past 4000 i put my ECU on a friend car a it rev past 8000 an when I put his ECU on my car same problem can you please help me
I Hv a Bosch 022 906 032 DB ecu doesn't supply power to coil number 2, trying to replace the burnt components I just can't locate it, can u help out? thanks
Hi. I know this is a pretty old post but do you guys still have a source for repairing the ECU. My Silvertop has idle problems once it gets to about 160F and drops down and cuts out. It kicks out a DTC 13 which says the distributor or ECU. The distributor is within specs for air gap and ohm readings do I am thing the NG circuit. If not, the capacitors you mention, I see a number on them but are having trouble to try and cross reference them. Where would be a good source to get the correct ones. Radioshack maybe? Great informative video so thanks for that.
Did you open the ecu case and examine to see if capacitors leaked? I know a guy i can put you in touch with but before that you should confirm if the capacitors have leaked and if they damaged any traces
@@Kenny4AG Thanks for the quick response. Yes I took the top off the ECU and I see where the larger capacitor next to the NE trace has leaked. Another further over may have as well. Thanks for any help.
wonder if this is my problem with my black top. Cold to warm is fine but once it is warmed up completely the idle goes from a steady 900 to 550 and it runs rough as hell and wants to die.
My acura wont rev past 4k rpm and all sensors were tested even swapped the motor and the wire harness and still the same damn code p2647 high voltage and it wont clear and we think its the ecu when i would go past 80mph my car would smell like burnt
Goo Job, Thanks ! Do you think, i could have a similar problem, faulty capasitors?? in my Infiniti FX45/2004, my AC is full of freon, compressor works, but AC works on and off/ I am in FLorida, always hot here, should I open my ECM, and check those capasitors?? Do I have to reprogram ECM after replacing those capasitors ??? And how?? Thanks a million, youtheman =)
Just blows hot, I though it is lack of freon, but it is not, some computer issue, works fine sometimes, nice and cold...., either ECM or Unified meter/AC amp unit?? How do I test it???/ It is a typical Nissan/Infiniti problem....in FX...
@@Eeropolvasti i know this is a really old thread, but I was having a stalling issue with my 4age corolla (and my air con didnt work but i thought it was due to a lack of refrigerant) so I replaced the ecu which fixed both issues. No more stalling and A/C blows cold as ice
what about the other components in the ECU mate? Im having problems too, but for my case, i can rev past VVT range, but my problem is, my VVT does not come on. And right about where VVT kicks in my car will jerk depending on my throttle position. I do not have a diagnostics port so im really facing problems. Hope you could shine some light on if it might be the same thing.
thanks Bro . I have Mercedes W202 1999 same probleme 3000 RPM REV LIMIT in diagnostic just one fault code MAF senser I change it and clear the fault code doesn't fix the problem they said to change the ECU but so expensive her Can this solution solve my problem; ?
abdellatif gbella can you rev past 3000 rpm while in neutral at idle a 3000rpm limit means either you have your speed limiter on or its stuck on, or if your vehicle doesnt have that feature the. the car is likely entering limp mode to protect from engine damage if you have a turbo check for leaks in the turbo tubing also ensure your getting adequate fuel pressure if you suspect the ecu is the problem, try opening it up and looking for bad capacitors and damaged traces disconnect the battery be gentle and dont force anything
TURBO NEW when I clear fault code the car run great even the rpm can rev to 5000 But just turn off the engine and start again problem back and no fault code in OBD ok I ll open the ECU thanks again have a good day
questionur dude u should post a video on how to do it, alot of ppl myself included would like to run open stacks on their silvertop using the blacktop ecu
hi! That's a great video! I am having the same problem except that my car is rev limiting at around 6000 and not more. the car is running rich and the plugs are covered with soot. i have run a diagnosis and found no codes. checked everything mechanically and everything is okay. It revs very smoothly all the way to 5.5 to 6k rpms but wouldn't go further. the car is a blacktop 4age with 7afe block and blacktop ecu. hope you can help me out. thanks!
Sorry I'm no totally familiar with the 7AG configuation which is what it sounds like your running, 7AFE block with 4AGE head. the 7AFE is a 1.8L if im not mistaken and is a lower compression block, which would throw off all the Blacktop 4age injection calculations most people running this setup have gone after market ECU, did you do this build?
Kenny4ag thanks for the reply. yes i have done the build and it has 4age pistons. the car was running fine the day before. i have done a 6 speed swap. it's in a ae101. tested it everything went well. next day took it out and it wouldn't rev past 6k and simply backfires. i have been running this set up for over 2 years now. never faced such problem. and i have changed my coil, ignitor, plug wires, no change. will change plugs today.
Does it idle ok? Some things to consider in order: 1) vacuum leak 2) 02 Sensor 3) TPS not aligned or malfunctioning 4) Thermal switch under the throttle body (forget what it is called) 5) Bad MAP sensor or other MAP related issue Maybe check the ignition timing and see if its off
Kenny4ag done a diagnosis nothing came up. but i will check these sensors again. i will also check the fuel pump. and it idles fine. thanks for the tips!
cant start my 4age 20v silveŕtop. i think i have a problem on electrical. brought it to my trusted mechanic but not able to fixed it. he said no current supply coming from CDI igniter to distributor. hope u cld help. thanks in advance
What kind of car is this for? an AE86? IF its fuel, jump B+ to FP in the diagnostics box, crank and see if it starts then, IF it starts then that is implying your fuel pump is not turning on, this happens to many AE86 owners Check if you have spark, pull a spark plug, reinsert it into the the wire it was connected to, hold the plug with pliars against a grounding point such as the strut tower tops, have a friend crank the car and see if you see the plug sparking, if it sparks then reinstall everything IF you have SPARK and FUEL PUMP works then you may have an issue where the fuel injectors are not recieving the signal to inject IF the injectors are firing AND you have spark THEN it should start, if not then your timing is incorrect or you have no compression
Hi ive had problems with my car its a race car so alot of high rpm but the problem is as soon as I get to around 6000 rpm the car doesn't react to any of my input from the throttle I have a whole spare car for parts if needed, please help!!
Kenny4ag no the light works but onlylights on when car Is started is the abs light because I disconnected it for racing and the catylitc converter light which came on after the car wouldn't start for a while after replacing the battery. the car smells rich and plugs are always fouled and are sometimes misfiring
Chrome Squirrel you could check the ecu per my video here but it doesnt sound like its the same issue. Try unplugging the o2 sensor and see if that allows it to rev freely.
My 20v silvertop runs 600 rpm on cold start(erratic idle) and producing black smoke but after 10 mins it goes up to 800 do you think it has something to do with the ecu, every week i check my spark plugs the lower part is filled with carbon powder(running rich)
aye garsi check ur compression and make sure ur getting 180ish per cylinder. If you are then maybe o2 sensor or idle air control valve. Are u getting a check engine light
thanks kenny,last year ive change my o2 sensor and tps ,if my capacitor is bloated or leaking do you think it has something to do with the low rpm on cold start and running rich,i also check the iacv the magnetic part i pull it out and the small cylinder is moving clock wise n counter clock wise ,thanks
Hi kenny,the car running smooth and normal its just that when i press the accelerator with pressure it produce just small amount of black smoke,by the way last year the mechanic change few capicitor ,about the check engine light,only when i switch on the the ignition key,but after engine starts the light goes off,thanks
Sounds like IACV(did you clean it with carb cleaner?) or temperature sensor(the one that sends signal to ECU) or air bubbles in coolant. blowing black smoke could be it burning oil but since your saying its running rich it could be that also. Bad temp sensor COULD cause it too run rich(so could air in the coolant system), so could an O2 Sensor.
Hey man, I've recently run into an ae92 with a 20v swap, it's got maybe a couple problems but I don't know enough about the engine to really tell what.
Kenny4ag Well for starter's it smokes a light grey, it's not smoking a shit-ton but still enough to raise an eyebrow to half-mast. The coolant resevoir was low, so that's probably leaking somewhere, and much like this video sometimes it does kind of have a limp mode but not all the time. It's a silvertop with a blacktop harness and TPS. I just wonder if it would be more trouble than it's worth.
Rhandal Bumbalough silver top on blacktop setup always runs rich, so that could be your smoking issue. You could pull the spark plugs and check for indications that its running rich, even if it does theres not alot you can do to fix it short of swapping to run a silvertop ecu. Since its running blacktop setup i assume ur running open stacks.
That would definitely mean its a possibility since the year falls into the years of bad capacitors. My silvertop 4age is from a similar year. BUT before you jump to that conclusion 1) Check for a CHECK ENGINE LIGHT, if you have it check the codes, cars with a CEL sometimes lock out the upper range of RPM to prevent engine blow. 2) Check your air filter, if its bad replace it, you could idle the car without a filter for a moment to see if it makes a difference (Dont drive with it off though) 3) Check fuel pressure, If its bad replace fuel filter If all those fail then disconnect the battery, then unplug the ecu, unscrew the metal case and inspect the ECU. check around the base of capacitors for evidence of them leaking or damage to the board.
hey if i want to change my 7a-fe to silver 2o valve 7age is it posssible wat r the some of stuff that i have to remove from my engine and wat are some of the stuff that i have to add.
Kenny4ag I want to thank you so much I had the same issue for about 6 month's on my 1993 toyota corolla it was driving me crazy I checked true all the sensor and no luck.. then checking out on TH-cam saw your video .I but all the capacitors and I replace them my self and the ecu is working 100% thank you so much!!!!
Hi, nice video. I have simmilar problem. I have a 1.6 4age red top Toyota Celica, it has a almost dead TPS (I’ve order a new one), and when it’s idling it does misfiring and poping and smells petrol like hell. I think it is normal due to TPS has a switch to check if throttle has been pressed or not and that switch inside TPS is what is broken, but the TPS pot is ok, so when I press throttle works great the engine. When I keep engine working on a highway or I am doing some “touge”, it starts to cut revs, sometimes is over 4k rpms engine stops accelerating and rpms goes down until 3500rpms and then it starts accelerating until it reachs 4k rpms and so on, so I turn off engine and turn it back on again and it works like normal, but randomly it starts to do the same. I think that timing is OK but it’s weird that randomly starts to do that and then “rebooting” ECU stops that symptoms. Could it be the ECU?
@@jjbc5059 its entering limp mode to prevent detonation. You need to check codes or flash the codes. Clearing the ecu isnt a real solution because the symptom keeps coming back Have you checked the codes?
I Hv a Bosch 022 906 032 DB ecu doesn't supply power to coil number 2, trying to replace the burnt components I just can't locate it, can u help out? thanks
+Kenny4ag cos I got a used one and it fired all 6 cylinders but the throttle body didn't align, wen I put the old one back only 5 cylinders were firing and it works with the throttle body just fine
![4AGE Overview [JDM Trivia]](/img/n.gif)
thanks for the heads up! I just recently bought a car with a 4age silver top swap in it
Nice job with ECU, my friends had same problem but they just added a new ECU, but by watching your video, I've learnt that capacitors have life line of 10 years or so...Thanks for video, Jehuty77...!!!
Good to know! thanks for the vid. My blacktop hasnt had any problems yet but this would be good to pay attention to
Great video thanks, I had he same issue. These capacitors made it into all kinds of electrical devices in the early 90s, I replaced leaky ones in my TV also.
Rick Bosak thats what i did and it worked
My silvertop have the same problem, checked the ECU for back caps but everything is fine, checked for error codes, just a Bad O2 Sensor but still wont rev past 4k rpm.
Planning to convert for BT ECU and change to whole wiring harness and do a complete engine rebuild.
Can you guide me where to get ECU fixed please?
where would someone send an ecu to get refurbished?
hey kenny i have a black 4age an it wont rev past 4000 i put my ECU on a friend car a it rev past 8000 an when I put his ECU on my car same problem can you please help me
I Hv a Bosch 022 906 032 DB ecu doesn't supply power to coil number 2, trying to replace the burnt components I just can't locate it, can u help out? thanks
Thank you for making this video. Very Informative !
Hi. I know this is a pretty old post but do you guys still have a source for repairing the ECU. My Silvertop has idle problems once it gets to about 160F and drops down and cuts out. It kicks out a DTC 13 which says the distributor or ECU. The distributor is within specs for air gap and ohm readings do I am thing the NG circuit. If not, the capacitors you mention, I see a number on them but are having trouble to try and cross reference them. Where would be a good source to get the correct ones. Radioshack maybe? Great informative video so thanks for that.
Did you open the ecu case and examine to see if capacitors leaked?
I know a guy i can put you in touch with but before that you should confirm if the capacitors have leaked and if they damaged any traces
@@Kenny4AG Thanks for the quick response. Yes I took the top off the ECU and I see where the larger capacitor next to the NE trace has leaked. Another further over may have as well. Thanks for any help.
wonder if this is my problem with my black top. Cold to warm is fine but once it is warmed up completely the idle goes from a steady 900 to 550 and it runs rough as hell and wants to die.
My acura wont rev past 4k rpm and all sensors were tested even swapped the motor and the wire harness and still the same damn code p2647 high voltage and it wont clear and we think its the ecu when i would go past 80mph my car would smell like burnt
Goo Job, Thanks ! Do you think, i could have a similar problem, faulty capasitors?? in my Infiniti FX45/2004, my AC is full of freon, compressor works, but AC works on and off/ I am in FLorida, always hot here, should I open my ECM, and check those capasitors?? Do I have to reprogram ECM after replacing those capasitors ??? And how?? Thanks a million, youtheman =)
not likely the ecu if its your air conditioning acting up, what exactly is the issue? the doesnt blow?
Just blows hot, I though it is lack of freon, but it is not, some computer issue, works fine sometimes, nice and cold...., either ECM or Unified meter/AC amp unit?? How do I test it???/
It is a typical Nissan/Infiniti problem....in FX...
Also, I though I could open ECM, and see, it there is obvious blown capasitors???=)
@@Eeropolvasti i know this is a really old thread, but I was having a stalling issue with my 4age corolla (and my air con didnt work but i thought it was due to a lack of refrigerant) so I replaced the ecu which fixed both issues. No more stalling and A/C blows cold as ice
@@bondom69 Thanks man =)
what about the other components in the ECU mate?
Im having problems too, but for my case, i can rev past VVT range, but my problem is, my VVT does not come on.
And right about where VVT kicks in my car will jerk depending on my throttle position.
I do not have a diagnostics port so im really facing problems. Hope you could shine some light on if it might be the same thing.
I have a 4AFE Engine, I would be happy if you could help me.
What issue r u having
great video and helpful. thank you
Kenny can you put voltage on capacitor location? I messed up mine..
Hi my name 20v blacktop won't idle its getting gas timing is on point but starts idle and shuts down what could that be? Need help
Did you ever figure this out my boy ?? Im struggling with my ecu
thanks Bro .
I have Mercedes W202 1999 same probleme 3000 RPM REV LIMIT
in diagnostic just one fault code MAF senser I change it and clear the fault code doesn't fix the problem they said to change the ECU but so expensive her
Can this solution solve my problem; ?
abdellatif gbella
can you rev past 3000 rpm while in neutral at idle
a 3000rpm limit means either you have your speed limiter on or its stuck on, or if your vehicle doesnt have that feature the. the car is likely entering limp mode to protect from engine damage
if you have a turbo check for leaks in the turbo tubing
also ensure your getting adequate fuel pressure
if you suspect the ecu is the problem, try opening it up and looking for bad capacitors and damaged traces
disconnect the battery
be gentle and dont force anything
my car is manual transmission 5 speed .
at idle and all gears Engine won't rev over 3000rpm
top speed in 5th gear 130 km/h
and EPC light on
TURBO NEW
when I clear fault code the car run great even the rpm can rev to 5000
But just turn off the engine and start again problem back and no fault code in OBD
ok I ll open the ECU
thanks again
have a good day
did a g22 Frankenstein with obd1 p28 ecu was running fine heard pop sound then the car started to have rev limiter at 3,500 could this be my problem
I doubt your problem is bad capcitors, more likely you blew something, you can still inspect your ECU though to be sure
i got silvertop with blacktopp ecu and map sensor conversion i about got it right...vaccume tricky to map
questionur world lol howd u do it
Kenny4ag vacume block run vacume off bottom off each throttle body to block then to map with a filter between...want run right off vacume tube
questionur dude u should post a video on how to do it, alot of ppl myself included would like to run open stacks on their silvertop using the blacktop ecu
dude can i use an 4AFE ecu or blacktop ecu on my silvertop since the sockets are the same with my 4age silvertop? ty
hi! That's a great video! I am having the same problem except that my car is rev limiting at around 6000 and not more. the car is running rich and the plugs are covered with soot. i have run a diagnosis and found no codes. checked everything mechanically and everything is okay. It revs very smoothly all the way to 5.5 to 6k rpms but wouldn't go further. the car is a blacktop 4age with 7afe block and blacktop ecu. hope you can help me out. thanks!
Sorry I'm no totally familiar with the 7AG configuation which is what it sounds like your running, 7AFE block with 4AGE head.
the 7AFE is a 1.8L if im not mistaken and is a lower compression block, which would throw off all the Blacktop 4age injection calculations
most people running this setup have gone after market ECU, did you do this build?
Kenny4ag thanks for the reply. yes i have done the build and it has 4age pistons. the car was running fine the day before. i have done a 6 speed swap. it's in a ae101. tested it everything went well. next day took it out and it wouldn't rev past 6k and simply backfires. i have been running this set up for over 2 years now. never faced such problem. and i have changed my coil, ignitor, plug wires, no change. will change plugs today.
Does it idle ok?
Some things to consider in order:
1) vacuum leak
2) 02 Sensor
3) TPS not aligned or malfunctioning
4) Thermal switch under the throttle body (forget what it is called)
5) Bad MAP sensor or other MAP related issue
Maybe check the ignition timing and see if its off
Kenny4ag done a diagnosis nothing came up. but i will check these sensors again. i will also check the fuel pump. and it idles fine. thanks for the tips!
Fuel Pump is working given your issue, check ignition timing, if the belt slipped a tooth it could cause timing to be out of wack and run rich,
Any tips how can i upgrade my silvertop ecu to a blacktop ecu
U hav to run a map and check and change connections to pcm for silver top to balck top allowing to delete maf and run ecu
How can I get in contact with you what's the value of the capacitors
how about the resistors? i also have replaced the capacitors but i still have issues. code is 42 and 33
Arvee Lacorte is your board too far damaged from the leaking capacitors?
cant start my 4age 20v silveŕtop. i think i have a problem on electrical. brought it to my trusted mechanic but not able to fixed it. he said no current supply coming from CDI igniter to distributor. hope u cld help. thanks in advance
it cranks but wont start?
Kenny4ag yes it cranks. i already tried to replaced the comp box, cdi/igniter and distributor which i bought surplus but didnt work.
Are you getting fuel? have you tried cranking for a moment, pulling a spark plug and checking to see if it is wet or smellings like gas
Kenny4ag not tried yet but if it gets fuel or smell fuel what shoul i check or do next? ty
What kind of car is this for? an AE86?
IF its fuel, jump B+ to FP in the diagnostics box, crank and see if it starts then, IF it starts then that is implying your fuel pump is not turning on, this happens to many AE86 owners
Check if you have spark, pull a spark plug, reinsert it into the the wire it was connected to, hold the plug with pliars against a grounding point such as the strut tower tops, have a friend crank the car and see if you see the plug sparking, if it sparks then reinstall everything
IF you have SPARK and FUEL PUMP works then you may have an issue where the fuel injectors are not recieving the signal to inject
IF the injectors are firing AND you have spark THEN it should start, if not then your timing is incorrect or you have no compression
Knock sensor ?
Hi mate I need help with my 20v 4age how do I connect you
whats the issue
Hi ive had problems with my car its a race car so alot of high rpm but the problem is as soon as I get to around 6000 rpm the car doesn't react to any of my input from the throttle I have a whole spare car for parts if needed, please help!!
Chrome Squirrel 4age? 16v? 20v?
Kenny4ag sorry 20v silvertop in a ae101 levin
Chrome Squirrel check engine light?
Kenny4ag no the light works but onlylights on when car Is started is the abs light because I disconnected it for racing and the catylitc converter light which came on after the car wouldn't start for a while after replacing the battery. the car smells rich and plugs are always fouled and are sometimes misfiring
Chrome Squirrel you could check the ecu per my video here but it doesnt sound like its the same issue.
Try unplugging the o2 sensor and see if that allows it to rev freely.
My 20v silvertop runs 600 rpm on cold start(erratic idle) and producing black smoke but after 10 mins it goes up to 800 do you think it has something to do with the ecu, every week i check my spark plugs the lower part is filled with carbon powder(running rich)
aye garsi check ur compression and make sure ur getting 180ish per cylinder.
If you are then maybe o2 sensor or idle air control valve.
Are u getting a check engine light
thanks kenny,last year ive change my o2 sensor and tps ,if my capacitor is bloated or leaking do you think it has something to do with the low rpm on cold start and running rich,i also check the iacv the magnetic part i pull it out and the small cylinder is moving clock wise n counter clock wise ,thanks
aye garsi how does it run when ur driving? Are u blowing black smoke everywhere?
Do u have a check engine light
Hi kenny,the car running smooth and normal its just that when i press the accelerator with pressure it produce just small amount of black smoke,by the way last year the mechanic change few capicitor ,about the check engine light,only when i switch on the the ignition key,but after engine starts the light goes off,thanks
Sounds like IACV(did you clean it with carb cleaner?) or temperature sensor(the one that sends signal to ECU) or air bubbles in coolant. blowing black smoke could be it burning oil but since your saying its running rich it could be that also. Bad temp sensor COULD cause it too run rich(so could air in the coolant system), so could an O2 Sensor.
My broblem is the car won't go up 190 km
slipping clutch perhaps
Hey man, I've recently run into an ae92 with a 20v swap, it's got maybe a couple problems but I don't know enough about the engine to really tell what.
I cant help you without more details, what exactly are the issues?
Kenny4ag Well for starter's it smokes a light grey, it's not smoking a shit-ton but still enough to raise an eyebrow to half-mast. The coolant resevoir was low, so that's probably leaking somewhere, and much like this video sometimes it does kind of have a limp mode but not all the time. It's a silvertop with a blacktop harness and TPS. I just wonder if it would be more trouble than it's worth.
Rhandal Bumbalough silver top on blacktop setup always runs rich, so that could be your smoking issue.
You could pull the spark plugs and check for indications that its running rich, even if it does theres not alot you can do to fix it short of swapping to run a silvertop ecu.
Since its running blacktop setup i assume ur running open stacks.
Thanks man, I'll look further
But you've been helpful as fuck, I wouldn't have thought of that.
bro do you think i could have same issue in my automatic 7a-fe ect, ecu rpm cuts off from 5000.
What year is the car? this effects a bunch of japanese cars from early to mid 90s
it's a 1993 model toyota carina AT192, 7a-fe engine with ECT automatic transmission.
That would definitely mean its a possibility since the year falls into the years of bad capacitors. My silvertop 4age is from a similar year.
BUT before you jump to that conclusion
1) Check for a CHECK ENGINE LIGHT, if you have it check the codes, cars with a CEL sometimes lock out the upper range of RPM to prevent engine blow.
2) Check your air filter, if its bad replace it, you could idle the car without a filter for a moment to see if it makes a difference (Dont drive with it off though)
3) Check fuel pressure, If its bad replace fuel filter
If all those fail then disconnect the battery, then unplug the ecu, unscrew the metal case and inspect the ECU. check around the base of capacitors for evidence of them leaking or damage to the board.
hey if i want to change my 7a-fe to silver 2o valve 7age is it posssible wat r the some of stuff that i have to remove from my engine and wat are some of the stuff that i have to add.
Thats a huge undertaking, try mesaging people who have done the conversion,
facebook.com/Toyota20vSwap/
Can u add itb's on a silver top 20 v
Majed Ammouri do you mean open stacks? because the silvertop has itbs from factory
where you bought the capacitor?
Any electronic specialty shop will have it, or check ebay
@@Kenny4AG thanks, got it from Ebay.
How do I private message you
this hecka helped me. thanks bro
good video =)
Thanks!
Hi friend
you didn't fixed the problem, you just removed the 4000 rpm limiter!😞
Maybe you misunderstood, I didn't modify the ECU in any way, just replaced dead capacitors. the RPM limiter is not controlled by capacitors.
Do't buy cheap caps from ebay for fixing this. get some proper branded ones.
of course ya, get quality parts
Kenny4ag I want to thank you so much I had the same issue for about 6 month's on my 1993 toyota corolla it was driving me crazy I checked true all the sensor and no luck.. then checking out on TH-cam saw your video .I but all the capacitors and I replace them my self and the ecu is working 100% thank you so much!!!!
I'm really glad I could help in anyway, :)
Hi, nice video. I have simmilar problem. I have a 1.6 4age red top Toyota Celica, it has a almost dead TPS (I’ve order a new one), and when it’s idling it does misfiring and poping and smells petrol like hell. I think it is normal due to TPS has a switch to check if throttle has been pressed or not and that switch inside TPS is what is broken, but the TPS pot is ok, so when I press throttle works great the engine. When I keep engine working on a highway or I am doing some “touge”, it starts to cut revs, sometimes is over 4k rpms engine stops accelerating and rpms goes down until 3500rpms and then it starts accelerating until it reachs 4k rpms and so on, so I turn off engine and turn it back on again and it works like normal, but randomly it starts to do the same. I think that timing is OK but it’s weird that randomly starts to do that and then “rebooting” ECU stops that symptoms. Could it be the ECU?
@@jjbc5059 its entering limp mode to prevent detonation. You need to check codes or flash the codes.
Clearing the ecu isnt a real solution because the symptom keeps coming back
Have you checked the codes?
I Hv a Bosch 022 906 032 DB ecu doesn't supply power to coil number 2, trying to replace the burnt components I just can't locate it, can u help out? thanks
PROVERBs UCHE get the part number off the part and google the part number, its usually small font
+Kenny4ag
don't kw abt ecu thought someone can direct me to which part is responsible for it not firing coil 2 so I can change it
PROVERBs UCHE youd have to research your specific ecu but what makes you think its the ecu thats the issue
+Kenny4ag
cos I got a used one and it fired all 6 cylinders but the throttle body didn't align, wen I put the old one back only 5 cylinders were firing and it works with the throttle body just fine