ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 พ.ย. 2016
- #SRAM #Guide R #Brakes - a quick check next to my Transition Smuggler. We are usually using Shimano so keep that in mind. Power is adequate, modulation is good.
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Videos I was referring to:
How-To Shorten Shimano Brake Hoses - • How-To Install Shimano...
Shimano Brakes Install A-to-Z - • Shimano BRAKES Install...
Shimano Brake Pad Replacement - • Shimano Disc Brake Pad...
How to replace a Shimano Brake Caliper - • Shimano Brake CALIPER ...
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0:00 Intro
My channel is not sponsored. All opinions are my own, 100% honest. Some of the links in this description are affiliate links. I'll earn a small commission if you make a purchase and it's no additional cost to you, I appreciate your support!
Great review as usual! These felt good on my rental Ibis Ripley LS even though I am used to Deores on my Trance. They will be on my 2018 Transition Scout so I will get used to them.
This was a good review! Appreciate your opinion.
Great vid!
This video popped up to me after so many years and I gotta say SRAM brakes are great. They made a huge leap forward compared to ELIXIRs. I had Guides RS from early 2016 till March '21 and they did great job at my enduro bike. I bled them once a year and after first year of use I fel like the lever piston got a little swelt during +30C rides, so I sand papered it just in case (known issue of early models)
From this year rocking Codes RSC and they're awesome.
The Guide R should be compare to the Shimano SLX because no tool is required to adjust the lever reach and the Guide R's have the adjustable banjo, the Deore does not have either of those to features and as for the contact point adjustments you don't get that on Shimano until have the XT line. The fins on the brakes pads are also on upgrade.
Thanks. Very nice video.
As usually very helpful. I think I'll go with these breaks at my hardtail because I have code R at my enduro bike and it's nice to avoid buying several service tools. Did you try to bleed it? How difficult is it in comparison with Shimano? Is it much more effort?
Do you know if when changing from shimano to sram brakes. If the shimano brake caliper adapter will work with the sram calipers. Thanks I love your videos!
After riding a season with Saints my new enduro came with Guide RS and gave them a chance due to the raving reviews. I also liked their look and the clean cockpit with the Reverb on the left clamp and the shifter on the right. The organic pads worn down very quickly and replaced them with metallic. I got used to the different lever feel and they were OK on the local trails but when I went to the mountains on very long descends they were just not comparable to the Saints. After they heated up the bite point was all over the places I just didn't know what to expect when I pull the lever next time. On the top of this the front lever started to stuck it didn't return properly just very slowly. Tried bleeding/replacing the brake fluid but no change and I had enough from the Guides so it was time for the Saints again.
Now the Guides are on my XC/Marathon bike and they are perfect for that. I ended up ordering the lever service kit and replaced the internals now it's working properly but time will tell for how long as the stucking lever seems to be a common problem with them.
LoveMTB I wanted to keep them around because they will go back on my enduro if I sell it and they are perfect for my Canyon Nerve. Also, I'm using my brakes in "moto" or British style and I really like that I can just swap the levers without disconnecting the hose and bleeding them. Other than that I prefer mineral oil over DOT but DOT is cheap and I don't have to bleed too often so it's not a deal breaker. They are definitely much better than Avids from couple of years ago...
Excellent video
I've been riding the Sram Guide RSC for 2 seasons now and they've offered a very good performance level, plus I've never had any trouble modulating the power, thus avoiding wheel slip. But I want to move and go for some shimano XTR for a couple reasons: 1) bleeding these Sram brakes is a bit tricky, it's very hard to get rid of every bit of air in the system, you always feel like there is air remaining in both master and caliper and a fairly big amount of oil drips out of the master cylinder every time I take off the seringe. 2) I first matched them with Avid G2 rotors and I had some sort of noise coming from the rotors, changed them for Centerline rotors, the noise disappeared but I feel they are a bit less powerful - Not good. I guess the source of the noise was the hole pattern in the old ones that created an irregular contact between pads and rotors (whoever got Avid brakes knows about that - f***ing annoying). 3) I want to go for something else --Shimano XTR: I loved the Sram Guide, they worked really well beside of all these small annoying things. On the trail, they are really fabulous to play with and they offer loads of adjustments. But I want to give a try to Shimano since I've never had shimano brakes before.
Anthony HT If the XTR are anything like the XT M8000 i would stay far far away from them.
Why should I stay far away from the XTR/XT. And Yes I was looking to buy the new models (M9000 or m8000). I'm looking for easy bleeding, reliable brakes, easy modulating power and the most important, no more jerking brake feeling.
LoveMTB, I hope so. My main concern is about braking power since the Guide have 4 pistons and bigger pads. With the same rotor size, have you seen a difference between braking power with Shimano vs Sram brakes. And for modulation, I'm ready to deal with this. Keep up with the good quality content, great videos so far, good luck!
Anyone with Br-M9020? :-ss
AVOID! Shimano Brakes, & SRAM brakes. Go with the MAGURA MT7E 4 piston or Better. That's quality braking power. With Ludicrous 2500watt powered Carbon Fram Mountain Bike, The group set it came with was garbage. For $700 I swapped to the Shimano Drivetrain system running the XTR, almost bought the SRAM XX1, but I trust the XTR more. Same with Brakes, my super-powered E-bike comes with these Guide 4 piston brakes. They suck! My dad's Shimano Deore 6100 System blows away the SRAM SX, NX & GX drivetrains. Surprised me and his Magura MT5E without regular MT5 hydraulic levers. Is a killer braking system. TBH I love Magura over Shimano & SRAM. Unlike Shimano and SRAM. MAGURA is brakes only making them the best in my book.
how do u haw only 7,2k subs? i godda sub
I like the rsc black versions
I have the guide R brakes. As the brake pads have worn the bite point of the brakes are closer and closer to the handlebars. Any idea how to adjust the bite point? Should I bleed the brakes?
I bought yesterday a 2nd hand giant trance advanced 2 2016 model. The brakes is very low stopping power and super noisy.. what do you think is the problem.. because bike shop is far in my place.
I have the sram TL and have a problem with the braking/gripping point.
I can pull the lever probably half way till the pads touch the disc.
There is no adjustment on the brakes for this. Is this an sram thing? or do they need a bleed?
mhh i have a new bike arriving any day now, comes with the Guide R. i was planning to immediately get rid of them but maybe i give em a try eh.
yeah its a 2k18 bike so i give em the good old testeroo on the hometrails. if i can remember i tell you afterwards what i thought :D
Great 👍🏼 Review !! I came across a set for $60.00 I’m not sure if I should pull the trigger on these. I want to replace my Avid Elixir R not sure if these will be better then the elixir R’s. Please advise thanks
LoveMTB thanks I will buy the Guide R for $60.00 thanks
Just got my bike with Guide R. However, it already seems like it gave out. The rear brake. It is very easy to pull lever and seems like there is no bite. What happened??
Go with shimano. Mine are running when you go fast or turn hard from the wheel flex. Also they make a nasty noise when braking hard. It sounds like the pads are catching the holes in the rotar
I have guide brakes on my factory remedy. To me, the brakes feel like I have to squeeze hard to lock them up. I’m in the process Of getting RSC kit , new under $400
Very under-rated brakes imho....mine are excellent and i have had a lot of (Also very good shimano)
Yes they have had a bad rep I agree. But when set up correctly they are extremely powerful but imho the power is easier to control compared to my previous XT which would bite immediately very digital on or off...the Guides are bit more..Analogue...:).
Anyway the good news is there is not a lot of bad news in the mtb brake world at present...
and new code rsc 2018?
good day sr. i would like to ask your advise for upgrading my brakes. should i choose shimano or sram for performance and budget. what would you advise for me..? thanks
Sram for Enduro and downhill Shimano for xc road and cyclocross
Hi, I'd love to get your thoughts on the G2 RE brakes. There seems to be plenty of information and reviews out there on the other G2 variants but I can't find anything about the RE.
Similar to the G2 R, the RE is meant for eBikes. no review on those though.
@@LoveMTB it has a bigger and better caliper from what I've read? Thanks
@@sgoaty It's what they usually do for eBikes. Bigger -yes, better - I wouldn't put money on that.
Quick question, I do have the Guide RE on a Santa Cruz Nomad 6 CC, and I am going to Whisler, SilverStar, Big White, Sun Peaks, Squamish and Fromme this summer and I was wondering if you notice any arm fatigue more with the guide than with the shimano. Why am I asking? Well I got this bike with those brakes last summer and I just realized this winter as I am training hard to get in better shape next summer that last summer, after each ride, my arms were soooo tired but then realized that on my older bike ( Scott Genius 960 with Shimano SAints Brake) I never had that issue for 3 years..
Weker brakes will give you more arm pump. So I believe the old Saint (that many bike mechanics in Whistler ride today) were a better options for the type of riding you're plannig.
@@LoveMTB tks, well I think I'm going to get another pair of Saints (My son has them now and there is no way I can remove them from his bike, he loves them so much!! :) I was hoping for a new version of the Saints, it was rumored last year Shimano would bring a new version but sounds like it was a false rumor
hey how i ajust pads bite position?
this is only move the handle closer how make pads closer to rotor ( i have old brakes i put new oil but still its half handle pressed and only then there is contact to pad)
i ordered shimano saint its for ebike need some times stop quick from 80 km/h
Where would this bike shipped from?
does the lever have a return failure problem?
LoveMTB si
sram is indeed excellent with the warranty. I have a set of guide ultimate brakes that came stock on the bike. I can see how some people like the slower modulation but if you're a fast rider and you get used to Shimano the Saints are spectacular. for a little bit lighter duty I'm thinking I'm going to replace these ultimates with XTR Trail. I was going back and forth and the bottom line is I did a really quick run at Mount Bachelor on XTR brakes. I knew what they were going to do. I felt confident with them. I can't say that about the guides. they change depending on temperature and they also seem to get more draggy as they heat up. I definitely agree the low-speed modulation is really good on the guide and I could see how a lot of people who ride casually would enjoy that but it's honestly kind of scary when you're going down a bike park and are not sure what your brake is going to do
Sram code rsc brakes the best
Is it normal that my guide re has some lever travel before the pads make contact and bite hard
I just serviced my Guide T brakes couple days ago due to huge lever travel (almost to the bar).
The trick is to pressurize the brake system once you bled it by pushing back some brake fluid at the caliper bleeding point. The rest of the system needs to be closed.
You can adjust the lever travel by playing with the given pressure.
Mine are better than ever before now!
@@Bennilolol do you mean bleed the system as normal. Close it all up. But then add a little extra fluid at the calliper port?
@@tuggers1000 maybe try to remove the wheel, pull the brake slowly to get the pads closee to the rotor and put a little brake fluid
Where are the men in this company?
Can same lever be left or right ? Or I will need to switch hoses ?
SRAM levers are ambidextrous so no L or R designation
right brake and gear shifter are connected to the same connection. What is it? Specific tool which allow to connect 2 devices to one connection? How does is work? 🙄🙄
Called Matchmaker for SRAM
@@LoveMTB Thank you
Guide R are 4 pot brakes.....probably more comparable to Shimano MT520 (also 4 pot)
Yes the Guide RS/RSC have something equivalent to the servo wave I think. It is possible to upgrade the levers I believe.
Is “I wouldn’t avoid them” supposed to be an endorsement?
Sram do many excellent products, cranks, truvativ bars ect and it is my go to before choosing another brand, but these have a crappy Achilles heal. The plastic piston inside the master cylinder seizes (easily repairable) it's happened to all of mine over 3 bikes(normally around or just out of warranty and all my brother's since 2015, my friends 15 miles away has had it occur, and he has mentioned friends of his that have had the same issue, and this is with regular bleeding. Shame really, they were really nice feeling brakes and do prefer the brand but Shimano have released some excellent 4 pot stoppers.
So if your handy with a spanner great, no problem get stuck in and it's only 15 mins, otherwise look for the blue box and you'll be less likely to be cursing as it slowly seizes.
@@LoveMTB No problem, I just find it a shame this is not spoken about more openly forcing sram to deal with this issue properly. Motorbike brakes use dot 5 all be it on a larger scale and they work for years. Maybe the should have a car or motorbike brand manufacture the piston if they are struggling with the material. Or even more simply store the pistons in dot 5 for two years then re- machine them, they've been out long enough to do that. Love the channel.
@@LoveMTB If you do not hear about it, then your first experience is finding it is busted, then logging onto forums to find this is the case then wondering why this is not so public.
do the power stay the same no matter the reach?
@@LoveMTB so you can lock up the brakes with levers adjusted for small hands right. I suspected that, looke dlike that would be the case by your vid. That's good. Buy not sure what you mean with the second part.
Can this ride in the snow?
Yes
This 2023, did they made a fix on this model?
Still saw issues with these last summer. New ones use oil vs DOT and maybe, maybe fixed a few things but have not tried them.
@@LoveMTB Thank you for the update! - hoping that most issues are resolved for SRAM guide as I've been yearning to try that model. hopefully!
I'm disappointed with Sram. I upgraded from Shimano to Sram Code R and they were incredible good modulation and stopping power but the build quality is poor and can be dengarous. I can't understand the logic behind the design, brakes are the most important thing on the bike and looks like safety is not a priority for Sram. The piston in the lever is made of plastic (in Shimano is metal) and will deteriorate quite fast and it will get stuck, the rubber seals are not godd quality either. The pistons in the calipers get stuck as well and resulting in unbalanced braking(3/2 working out of 4).All of this happened with me a little over 1 year wit only a few rides, noting extreme. It's insane making this compromises just to shave off a few grams. This brakes are unsafe and they should not be allowed on the market.
Never buying another Sram brake. Ever.
Gay
Will never have scram again ,£4k bike and the brakes are sticking and weak ,the brakes on my calibre boss nut shimano are perfect after 3 years nit even had to bleed them.
Take your bike to a Sram dealer and see if your Sram brakes are under the voluntary recall. My company has recalled over 1000 Guide and Level brake levers due to a machining error. Sram has never solved this problem. It is still happening after 5 years! Other models as well.
Here's my advice as a pro mechanic:
If you can get your brakes recalled, as soon as the repair is completed, remove the brakes, sell them and count your losses and learn your lesson. Never buy anything Sram again.
Buy only Shimano or Magura brakes as replacements. They are proven to last and work more than a few short years. That's what my shop recommends. We can't keep them on the shelf. Sram junk is always on the shelf. Go figure....
Most experienced mechanics realize Sram has spotty quality control at best. I'll NEVER recommend their products. There are much better choices in the world.
If you would like more evidence and information let me know. I'm also a machinist and mechanical inspector. Ive have a 30 year careers worth of experience working to the highest quality standards on earth. Highest reliability and human safety are my #1 priorities.
@@rollinrat4850 I fitted new master cylinder internals and re bled the brakes worked perfect for 6 months then did the same so re did them again then sold the bike ,shimano all day long ,will not have another scram brake equipped bike again.
@@salisburyplain998 Scram.... That's pretty good!!! Here's another name for them: SCRAP
AKA, landfill
All of us here weve had many issues with sram brakes. DOT 5.1 makes no sense on a bicycle and destroys all the seals within a year. For me sram brakes are designed in marketing terms instead of ease of use and more particularly ease of maintansnce and durability.
@@LoveMTB they are a nightmare no matter new or old. Everytime i have to deal with them i hate them
shimano xt rules
stop comparing them to shimano. And if u would, the sram guide r are more equivalent to the slx but they still would have way more stopping power
Does it bother you that much?
Who else would you compare it to?
Stfu and make your own video
Saints or Code R? I looking to buy a RM and they come with Sram level t which I ll change for sure.
Avoid these brakes. I’ve replaced 4 levers under warranty in the last 6 months. They seize up in the heat. Very bad levers. SRAM need to get their act together.
Those problems were long gone since the B2 revision ;)
The brake lever plunger on the original version (pre B2 revision) that has this problem can be upgraded with cheap aluminum plungers - available on Amazon, eBay etc - or removed and lightly sanded. Lots of videos on TH-cam.
Great review BUT realize this is a very poor design AND tiny so called recreational 4 pistons. Hardly unfair to compare with MAGURA MT5 giant larger than quarter each piston ! I know because I'm throwing out these on my amazing Trek Fuel eX8 plus rear.... thank goodness I put MT5 on front with 203mm rotors.. 1.8mm thick... I'm unable to move front wheel. Guide R... moves easily. So difficult and irritating to work on!
Old cheap small and even their rotors are too thin at 1.5-1.6m..! and narrow! Otherwise great informative review. Do not waste money on these.
Guide R is lower end? A 4-piston caliper low end? Uh...yeah, no. #ufb
Yes it is low end, on internet you can find the set for $100
This come on some new Santas and are ok brakes. Not sure why the complains.
I'm not a MTB-rider (yet, waiting for my bike..) but I think it can be safe to say that lower quality parts sometimes try to mimic higher quality parts. 4 pistons are good right? slap it in! I figure the big difference is the quality control and material quality.
My bike will arrive with SRAM Guide T, it will be interesting to experience how they'll work since all people seem to hate SRAM quality. My city bike uses Shimano so if anything happens to the srams or they simply suck I'll move on to shimano.
Avoid this junk like the plague, anything SRAM makes for that matter. Their warranty is a joke, my bike with less than forty hours on it which is a 2018 Santa Cruz Bronson has literally had every component made by these guys fail and of course it's past their alleged two year warranty. The Reverb dropper (made by SRAM), guide R brakes, and derailleur have all FAILED on what is still a new $5k bike. They wont deal with any consumer personally and you will need to take your bike to your local bike shop where it will sit for an undefined amount of time to be no less than a week at which point they will "determine" based on that LBS feedback whether or not they want to cover their junk product. Waste of money (a lot of it) and more importantly your precious time that could otherwise be spent riding.
I can't get over how hideous guide brakes look.
DO NOT buy SRAM! Levers stick, get stuck when hot. Sometimes they completely lock up. Go with TRP or Shimano. Anything is better than SRAM brakes.
Nightingale SRAM drivetrain is ok. Stay away from SRAM brakes and suspension (Rockshox). Plastic parts used everywhere.
@@ratcamaro RockShox Suspension isn't bad at all.
There are some cheaper models Wich aren't great but at their pricepoint, all the other suspensions aren't better either.
Drivetrains are totally fine. They are just a bit different compared to Shimano
Absolutely rubbish brakes.
@@LoveMTB yes. Depends how you ride. There's riders and there's riders
SRAM guide, terrible brakes. For the street ok, but not for mountain bike trail, enduro and downhill. Or just leave on the trash and get Shimano.
Unfortuntely I have to gree with you after what I've seen and experienced since I posted this video...
Do not buy these brakes. If they come with the bike remove them and throw tbem in the bin.