The Motor Oil Geek Explains Why Your Engine Oil Matters
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 11 ก.ค. 2024
- #Lakespeedjr #fordbronco #oilchanges
In This interview with our special guest Lake Speed JR, a certified Triboloist we will discuss the importance of oil changes, oil testing, and what additives may help your engine last longer. Is an engine break-in still needed? The answer may surprise you.
Check out Lake Speed Jr's youtube channel (The Motor Oil Geek) / @themotoroilgeek
For engine oil testing check out www.speediagnostix.com/ - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
MOTOR OIL GEEK IS THE GOAT
Agreed!
Agreed
I could listen to Lake all day long and get educated. Then, I could listen to his dad all day long with his racing stories.
Lake Speed Jr. is a national treasure for us DIY citizens, in regards to revealing the truth ! Science vs Speculation is His mantra :)
Agreed
Global treasure actually!
I have been building and tuning engines since the early 80s. I always read and update my knowledge base on my industry. Or at least I thought so. I stumbled on the Lakes videos about a year ago. I quickly found out what I didn't know. Thanks for hosting Lake on the channel, you now have a new subscriber.
Well done gentlemen.
Thank you for subscribing
In addition to Lake’s recommendations, I would suggest using “top tier” fuel at a fueling station that displays the top tier sticker or label at the pump. There’s a web site that has a searchable list of top tier gas station locations.
Been doing that for decades and never had a fuel injection issue,97 ford 4.0 450k all original when sold.
Same people fight so hard about premium gas but it’s not just that it’s a quality fuel station with a high turnover. I have a car that specked for 87 and I don’t care what anybody says premium. It has a 13 to one compression ratio my wife’s car has an 11.5 compression ratiothat has 120,000 miles on it. It was 87 when it was new however it’s not a new engine anymore. It has carbon deposits carbon deposits effectively raise the compression ratio.
@@thetechlibrarian Sounds like the usual speculation. Not science.
@@NoName-tz5ji Can't beat Ford Motor! 💯
@@thetechlibrarian if you have enough carbon in your cylinders to raise compression you haven’t been using top tier fuel and/or quality fuel additives 😂
Lake Speed Jr. is an awesome man and is truly the GOAT of engine performance. Guys like me benefit greatly from his expertise.
Agree!
I guess TH-cam brought me here because Lake was on it.
Great show
Thank you for watching!
So use synthetic oil, change it every 5k or less and use complete fuel system cleaner every oil change eg chevron techron complete fuel system cleaner. The big unanswered question is.. what about oil weights. Car manufacturers trying to get better EPA figures are recommending lower viscosity 0w20 oils. Perhaps 5w30 or 5w40 would actually result in great protection with minimal impact on fuel economy? Please ask LSJ back or some other true expert to answer that. Thank you!
According to another one of his videos, always use the manufacturer recommended oil weight, heavier oils can clog extremely small oil passages.
@@blackhawkgamingtv6553I don’t recall him being absolute on that.
I own an engine that has no problem yet but it seems they all eventually have a rocker/lifter failure. The rockers’ needle bearings can eventually stop moving to disperse wear so it ultimately leads to the camshaft lobe being wiped. In that situation, where the actually viscosity, the layer boundary, is the first line of defense against metal to metal contact. Based on that, I think that the locality of failure has higher temperature that needs a higher HTHS centistoke value at 150° C.
Looking at old school big blocks where Lake gave advice (yellowbullet forum a few years ago) on hydraulic lifters saying they saw good performance from 3.8-4.1 cSt at 150°, I think it at least may show a direction to lean toward over and away from the factory spec to address wear.
Yes the passages are small (vvt) and also may cause a hundredths of second delay in actuation, but the benefits MAY outweigh the negatives.
If it makes a racket under the hood on 0w-20 when cold and warm…and you say go to a 5w-30 and it is significantly better cold and hot, you may be onto something. Of course, it needs a good additive pack too in the event the oil is displaced from the part’s surface, resulting in metal to metal contact, as a safety net. That’s why the additives are there, a safety net.
Also, in my experience, I don’t assemble engines with 0w. Startup, especially fully cold, is where most wear occurs. I’d like some more resistance to the oil flowing away from the journals and splash lubed rockers. Especially since I have start/stop.
B student 4lyfe
Choose weight based on climate. If it's hot, you can go heavy..if it's cold weather, you run the risk of friction and wear on parts with thick oil that don't get up to temperature
I own a 2009 Honda CRV. I live in Latin America.
In the US, user's manual for this car calls for 0w20 only. However for the same engine, same model, same year, but for a vehicle purchased in Latin America, the user's manual calls for: 0w30, 0w40, 5w30, 5w40, 10w30, 10w40 and 15w40 😅 so, there're other factors such as regulations in play besides engine specs
I have a feeling that Smokey Yunick was a tribologist before there even WAS such a thing!! Anyway, I know that he was VERY interested in oil, oil pressure, friction, etc. and also always in touch with the oil companies. He also commonly sent out for oil analysis... he knew about it because it was common in aviation.
Great info. Thank you!
Wonderful video. Yes if you want to be an a student oil sampling is the way to go. As a former fleet manager every truck, we had got an oil sample at every oil change. It allowed us to keep tabs on engine health and comparison to the rest of the fleet. By switching to mobile Delvac one we went from 20,000 mile oil changes to 100,000 mile oil changes And filters every 25,000 miles I would never recommend this in a car.
And before anybody says anything, our fleet averaged over 1,000,000 miles per engine overhaul, which is more than we got with conventional oil and 20,000 mile oil changes.
Great report Chris, it validated what I have been saying about synthetic and oil change cycles. For over the road truckers, a savings per truck adds up to profits !
I do oil samples as well. And it gives me confidence to do 10000 miles on a change. Oil checked good as new. I could go further but I’m ok with the 10000k miles. It does depend on use and vehicle so an analysis would let you know where you are with your specific vehicle and use. Some instances will not make 10000 before breakdown. And your 100000 intervals are amazing but is probably from a lot of proper operations and procedures.
Yes, I agree with oil sampling, but years ago, petroleum oil was what was being tested. Today, with pure synthetic oil, results should not be viewed as they were. I saw a technical paper saying synthetic doesn’t wear out, it just gets dirty and contaminants, so I change oil at 24,000 miles like some trucking companies !
@@captnjim44smith74the thing that concerns me is the contamination as well. I think that is what wears chains and guides. so I do get the results on contamination but it is low when I change it. Even though the oil checks great. but it is there compared to new oil. Some have the oil polishing equipment like ships and trains and the oil lasts many years. I’ve seen it in vehicles. Cheaper to change oil.
@@mason7300 I disagree. It’s not cheap to change oil that is nearly new just because of a small amount of contaminate. What is sensible. I have driven multiple vehicles since the 1970s with no discernible wear, no smoke before I traded in 170-200k miles. I’m happy to continue my way.
Awesome discourse! I learned so much - thx u.
Great interview. I greatly enjoy Lake's channel, a wealth of great information.
Thank you for watching
When I bought my new 2020 GMC Sierra with the "Mini Max" 3.0l Duramax, the salesman said "Oh, bring it back when the OLM gets down to under 30% and you'll be fine!lol! Nope. 700 miles and dumped the factory fill and then 5k ever since. 82k trouble free miles so far....and great UOA's from Blackstone using nothing but the spec oil.
👍 and it should last a long time! Thanks for watching
The way I'd do it too! Honda Element owner: original engine/ and / trans: 364,000 miles and going strong!
@@Ram14250 Same here! 07 F150 4wd. 344k mis & running great! All orig except for alternator.💯 Also have newer 23 F150 Tremor 4wd. Can't beat Ford trucks.
Oil is the only thing that keeps your engine from destroying itself. It better be good.
Love this. Never thought much about oil. But now learning soo much and making sure I get the correct oil brand, filter and weight.
Great! Thank you for watching our channel
A lot of knowledge, Great episode, Thanks a lot for sharing.
Thank you for watching
I though I knew a good bit about lubricants, but the Oil Geek has taught me a lot of cool stuff about oil and lubricant do's and don'ts. He actually tests this stuff and shows the results, then explains things in a way that make great, practical sense!
Thank you for watching. He is very smart for sure.
Great show. I have watched M.O.Geek shows etc. This show helped me tremendously!!! I am B student working on being valedictorian!
Awesome! Yes Lake is the real deal
Enjoyed the interview. Good info.
Thank you for watching. Lake Speed Jr is a wealth of knowledge
This is great! I really learned a lot.
Awesome! Thank you for watching!
thanks mate,, really good
Thanks for watching
I recently found your channel and find your oil info to be excellent. Thanks. Would you consider doing a vid on how much temperature oil can take before starting to break down? I have a Kohler twin air cooled engine in my lawn mower and it runs extremely hot. Other Kohler owners have also become concerned about this. Kohler even took notice and now sells an add on oil cooler. Although its small, expensive and likely does nothing. My machine runs fine but a couple years back I used a laser heat gun on the oil filter and couldn't believe it was reading 155c or over 310f after mowing. I installed a temp gauge to be sure and put on a large oil cooler made for a motorcycle. No change at all and oil still 155c. I change the oil and filter yearly, use syn 10w40 oil and clean the engine cooling fins. But it always runs that high temp. Thanks again and keep up the work.
Fantastic podcast
Penzoil Ultra Platinum is the best oil there is and cheaper then amsoil
very good video!!
Thank you for watching
99% of these automotive engines do not have cylinder sleeves, they are just cylinders within the engine block. They are not removable sleeves like you would find in certain heavy truck and equipment diesel engines.
Also, using the accelerator to the floor method is not to purge and engine, it is to prime the engine’s oil system by developing oil pressure at lower rpm with minimal force on the rotating assembly prior to the actual start.
Great choice bringing Lake on the show, I really liked the interview.
Thank you for watching
Cylinder Liners
To purge air from the oil gallery
Most engines today are aluminum block with cast in iron sleeves. Not removable, but sleeves nonetheless.
@@billm6294what about the engines that have plating like Nikasil. All motorcycles aluminum cylinders are plated. I would think high performance cars would be too
I run Mobil 1 0/40 in everything. Never had a motor issue. I use Redline SP1 fuel cleaner
Hi Lake, big fan of yours. Hopefully you’ll have time to answer my question.
Got a BMW 650i 2007. I moved to a very hot climate(30+ and often 40+) 4-5 months in a year, and rest above 20. It’s very hilly as well and I drive my car hard after I warm it up. Been using 5w40 and no issues apart from oil temps being around 110 degrees to 112 degrees. The oil in question is Liqui moly 5w40 leichtlauf high tech. Liqui moly state it’s ok until 138 degree oil temp and safe to drive, but I’ve been thinking is it worth switching to a 5w50 or 10w60 oil while I’m here? No 10w60 oil have the LL-01 that my engine requires. Thanks for your help in advance.
I would definitely be interested in that other can of worms😂😂 at least Lakes opinions on filters.
We will try to make that happen.
🛢⛽️ good show (science) facts over friction 👍
Outstanding video, lots of good information. Thank you. I've got questions about Amzoil, which seems to be the 3rd rail in the oil discussion. No one wants to explain why they say their oil is made in a lab and not from crude oil. Really hesitate to buy oil from the truck of someone's car.
Another interesting thing is that since every Amzoil dealer has their own website, they've polluted the internet so badly that you can't find any good independent oil analysis on motor oils. And when you do, it's an Amzoil site talking about some ball bearing test. As a friend said, when he's got ball bearing running around his motor, he'll consider buying Amzoil.
No one says Amsoil is made in a lab. Everyone knows they buy their base oil from Mobil/Shell/Phillips and blend in their additives also bought from someone. That's it. They are a blender
@@jeffreyb1451 I've gone through the Amsoil production facility in Superior, WI. There are different groups of base lubricants. While the original product may have come from the ground, the hydrocarbons of the Group 4 chemicals are truly manufactured and behave much differently than petroleum-based motor oil. Upon arrival at the plant, a sample is analyzed by their chemists to see if it meets the required specifications. If it doesn't the tanker or freight car is rejected. The manner in which the base chemicals and the additives are blended together helps establish the proprietary nature of the oil and the properties of the oil sold to the public through a dealer network.
Can you do a video on a oil accumulator.
Would one help a 5.3L 3 valve from coming apart?
Just list 5 top brand that you recomment sir. Thanks
My vehicles manufacturer specifies an ACEA SP 0w30 rated oil. Not an easy oil to find. I have discovered ACEA c2/c3 oil meets the same basic emission requirements. I know the minimum HTHS are different for each, lower for c2. Since my engine is a performance engine, and I don't care as much for emissions systems like the catalyst longevity as I do for wear protection, I lean tward using a higher HTHS rated oil. Since the ACEA c1/c2 oils have lower SAPS, to also help with emissions systems longevity virus higher ash content found in ACEA A5/A3 oil that helps protect the valve seats instead, I go with a 0w40 ACEA A3 oil POE/PAO oil. Eventually, I'll have a catless downpipe installed anyway.
Amsoil
You said that turbocharged engines have brass bearings, and have a break in time. If you change to a upgraded bigger single turbo, or a compound setup. Should you change the oil after what mileage? I'm talking about diesel pickups.
And Check, clean or replace the oil screen on the turbo.
It just makes seens you should add oil in the filter. I know when you build a Buich engine you have to pack the pump to create a vacume to get the oil to pick it up out of the pan.
And my Amazon subscription to Chevron complete fuel system cleaner has been created.
I have a Tacoma with the filter on top and I prefill my filter even if the filter is upside down, you just need to be quick.
Lol. Freeze it 😂
@@forester057 I didn't think of that!😄
Bullshit
Don't neglect the other fluids either. Differentials, transfer case, transmission, brake fluid, power steering fluid...
Good advice. Thank you
I suck out and replace as much brake fluid from the master cylinder and replace it with fresh fluid every year. The same thing should be done with power steering fluid. And the addition of Amsoil Coolant Boost works well for my vehicles. These are things only a DIYer would do.
I was at a garage sale a couple weeks ago and there were two CANS of Conoco 10W30 with API rating SF, I suspect it was late 70s-early 80s. While I wouldnt put it in an engine, it does have one superiority to any modern oil...zinc content, an important additive with flat tappet engines which were common in many vehicles until around 1994. I dont give a rats behind about potential damage to emission systems, Im NO tree hugger.
I check out these channels mainly for others opinions rather than advice as I am starting my 53rd year in automotive repair, and Ive seen, heard or both mostly everything..
lake has a video about using OLD never used oil watch it - you would never use any old/new oil after seeing.
You mention oil advertising. When I was in high school there was a late night TV commercial where they ran a normal car (normally a Honda Accord or similar) around a track stock, drain it, add the Wonder Oil (mystery oil) and run it around again. After 10 laps they’d poke holes in the drain pan and let all the oil drain out, supposedly, and run it around the track with only the residue of their Wonder Oil left in the engine and the car would just go, and go, and go…….
We called it ‘Wonder Oil’ because we wondered why the heck people believed it. Then caught a lot of grief because people are gullable.
Hi Lake, I have a direct question for you, I run the bmw n47 2.0Litre diesel and sulphated ash(is that the zddp) at 800ppm, how high can I go before I start damage to DPF ceramic matrix and cat. Because I have the same issue with my Toyota MR2 Mk3 as it has cats in the headers. I would like your thoughts please.
Mine is a port fuel injection/multiport fuel injection (PFI/MFI). Mine is 15-years old. 🙂
I forgot ask question about my 07 impala LS must follow gm manuel.it said must require full synthetic,follow every 5 k miles for oil changes.must do that ???????.
I've got a question that I would appreciate a answer to. I've got a 2004 Kia Pregio 2.7 L Diesel van and if a 5w 40 oil does a better job than a 15w 40 why is 15w 40 still recommended for my diesel and a 5w 40 not recommended for my vehicle?
On the very first day of my physics 101 class, my professor got up didn’t even introduce himself and said this “do you want your nuclear reactor designed by the guy with a C average?“ I don’t even remember his name to be honest, but I remember that and it’s stuck with me, from that moment forward, I dedicated myself to never being the guy with a C average
Great point, never bad advice to your best!
Thank you for watching
@@DrivenWildOutdoors that was in 1979. Stuck with me ever since. If you want the best for yourself and your car. Do your due diligence.
Huge Amsoil fan ...what are your thoughts on engine flush with oil changes?? Thanks dan
I have been using Amsoil Engine Flush for years. Since Amsoil's 100% synthetic keeps the engines so clean, I tend to use less than the recommended amount before an oil change. The fear in using any flush in a dirty engine is the possibility that dislodged sludge could actually clog an orifice and therefore do more damage than good.
I commute highway miles, 30k miles a year.
I choose intervals of 10k miles per change using Mobil1 EP 5w-30 oil and filter.
No problems.
Get the oil analyzed.
@Jasiel.95 I want to, it's on my mind now.
I have a 1.8l Toyota with massive amounts of highway miles.
If your going to go 10k mile intervals, best to use "20k mile oil and filter"
22:17 I don’t know where people think that Brand New unfiltered oil is bad when the oil filter goes into bypass mode on a regular basis with used oil.
Do you think the 3.5L turbo engines in the new tundra are failing because of 10k mile oil changes? Perhaps if they had their first oil change at 500-1000 and again at 2500, then every 5000 miles, the main and rod bearings wouldn't start failing around 25k-80k miles
I do not know the reason. They have been very quiet about the causes. I would think that a short term failure at 35 or even 8000 miles is due to something else however, I could be wrong. I was suspect something related to thermodynamics.
Ha ha so to all them ppl saying im a waste changing my oil every 1-3k miles depending on my driving ( its in a 91 mazda miata , boared 30 thou over with forged pistons and rods "pistons and rings from supertech" king race bearings billet oil pump , fluid damper , port n polish head , custom intake , oversized TB , and a 4849g pushing 34psi .. prolly missing a few other things that would contribute aswell but yeah , that alone is why i change my oil so often ...) o and i daily this car , fully legal were i live ,on standalone with a hood dump 😅... .. lake is a god when it comes to engines ... peace and love all keep it rad stay safe and build on l8z... ps my break in i used a conventional crude oil (not syn or anything as thats what machine shop had recommended) i did a start to op temp , then shut down and changed it then ran it 300 miles and changed it then whent to 1000 miles and changed it to full synthetic and have been run that since and its still alive round 20k miles later .. o yeah and i built this engine myself in my bedroom (ask the wife she was pissed lol) .. and all my knowledge came from 1 i have 2 older brothers that do nothing but engines (mechanics) there whole lives and 2 the rad knowledge that ppl like lake have shared with us diy guys ... anyways , sorry all my ADHD made me write a story .. my bad .. much love and respect to all and keep having fun
I have some STP Fuel Injector Cleaner that isn't PEA based. Should I throw it out? My engine port injected not direct.
Been a couple years since last time I put any STP in. Not sure how much to use. The bottle says it good for up to 28 Gallons. My tank is only 13-14 gallons. Should I use only 1/2 bottle or full bottle? I planning on checking the fuel trim before and after treatment. Is that valid test? My trim is within a few percent at idle. But is like adding 17% at 2,000 RPM. Does that raise any red flags?
Is Mobil 1 truck and suv
Any good don’t see any videos on it
Thanks a lot for the info! Thanks to oil geek I’m changing the oil on both my Broncos every 3 k or 6 months! My question is, and I know what the answer is, but is it ok to change my oil every 4k or 8 months on the maverick hybrid?
Keep in mind start/stops are the worst for an engine and what do hybrids do? They put engines thru the worst of frequent starts and stops and quite possibly never letting it get up to temperature.... I would change a hybrid oil MORE often.
Makes sense.I started every 3 k, but when I drain the oil it still looks super clean!
@@ramonahumada4 well you could send a sample and Lake will review it via his Speediagnostix business like he did for me and then you could get a baseline to use to gauge future readings against. Winter time with short trips with generic gasoline should be the worst case time period. On that note, don't use generic gas.
Chevron and shell only and Pennzoil ultra platinum on my cars.
I have a question that I have never gotten a reasonable answer to, so I'll ask it here.
We all have a "full flow filter" (oil) on our engines. Now, I have a problem believing that, assuming let's say 10-30 oil, at cold engine startup, at an ambient temp of 10F, all the oil is passed through my oil filter and not the bypass. Am I correct? How much oil (in GPM or any other measure) can pass through a factory (you pick it, Chrysler, Ford or GM) oil filter at the various temps that it is subject to? I'll bet I'm not the only one here that would like an answer to that.
I would recommend using the best oil you possibly can in your motor.. Companies that advertise full synthetic are allowed to do so with only 25% of that oil actually being synthetic. Amsoil for instance, is 100% fully synthetic oil.. Just wondering, why lake has not tested Amsoil signature yet? I believe it’s the best oil on the planet.. Smaller companies I rather deal with any day over the super large companies. The quality control is much better.
He used Pennzoil Ultra Syn in his daughter's car. Yeah I'm with you, but that is expensive oil where I can probably change oil twice at the same cost as Amsoil.
So what’s the best??? If I just go to my local parts store what should I get for the best protection???
Penzoil ultra platinum
Please point to any study or lab test that answers the question of what is the optimal ppm of ZDDP in oil.
Search Amsoil or Pennzoil, which wins Championship? Let's find out! Under the more tab he has a link to oil analysis results for many oils.
My experience with Mobil One goes back to the 1970s. I read a column in Motor Trend of a hundred thousand miles test that convinced me, so I have had great experience since then. True synthetic oil doesn’t wear out like petroleum oil.
It just gets contaminated. So I still change it at 3000-5000 miles.
@@donreinke5863 yes, that’s what a filter is for ! I change the filter at eight thousand miles like over the road truckers, but I don’t throw out good oil for 24,000 miles !
@@captnjim44smith74 I wouldnt let oil go half that long even in a diesel. 3000-5000 MAX with synthetic oil in a gasoline engine.
@@donreinke5863 I did research on synthetic oil, and the technical paper said petroleum oil has different strands of molecule lengths, and the short ones wear out first. Longest ones last longer. Synthetic oil doesn’t wear out, it just gets dirty, so why throw out good oil ? Use filters. It will get contaminated by corrosive material.
@@captnjim44smith74 I dont trust any oil to last over 5000 miles in gasoline engines and still provide good lubrication.
No matter what anyone says.
Im not cheap enough to risk engine damage for a few quarts of oil
In 52 years of doing automotive repair Ive torn apart too many engines in which oil had turned to sludge from thermal breakdown. one of them I even scooped "oil" out of the pan by hand. It had spun not only rod bearings, but mains as well
Another had so much sludge under the valve covers that they each weighed several POUNDS more than they did when finally cleaned, however that one still ran.
You didnt convince me.
Doesnt changing earlier help the environment long-term. That is what isnt rocket science. Thanks guys. What i would like is transmission oils covered
A question I have is the dealership usually places a sticker on windshield stating next oil change mileage or six months whichever comes first. Can a person who doesn't drive a lot go over the six months b4 an oil change?
Best not to, due to condensation or dilution, since you likely arent often driving till good and hot.
@@richcombs4805 It's a personal preference. Oil & filters are cheap, but engines are expensive. Just watch The Car Care Nut or Scotty Kilmer to learn about oil changes. And, the Motor Oil Geek agrees, six months or 5K, whichever occurs first. I don't care how many miles you drive... change the oil & filter, period.
For owners of new cars, can these oil samples be used if issues under warranty arise and manufacturers refuse coverage.
Good question. I don’t see why not.
In the winter i use 20w 50
In thr summer i use 0w-20
My car has 15,000 miles and ZERO PROBLEMS
🤣
Should I use a fuel additive before or after an oil change or does it matter?
I use Marvel Mystery Oil in the fuel and crankcase. Projectfarms proved it does what it says it will do.
Valvoline clean and restore, VS royal purple which is better and why?
Penzoil ultra plat
Best oil filter? I use Mobil 1 oil & filter every 5k but i hear Amsoil with WIX filter is best.
Fram ultra synthetic
What can we use to help flush engine etc when doing a oil change
Full synthetics with a high detergent package will slowly clean out the sludge. Projectfarms did an extensive test.
I pick up my new ZR2 next weekend should I 1000km or les
You should be literate first.
Just change with any SAE certified oil ever 3000 miles. Change the oil filter every other oil change so reduce the initial oil starvation.
What a geek
My car takes a synthetic blend 5W-20 can I run full synthetic without damaging anything
I would follow up with a dealership and ask them that question for warranty purposes.
However, I switch from a synthetic blend to full synthetic Motorcraft and the service manager at my dealership said it would not affect the warranty . But I suggest you do your own research.
Synthetic blend is the bare minimum to use under warranty. You can always step up to full synthetic any time. Just use the correct viscosity.
Hi from the uk
This ain't rocket science , I might disagree rockets are simple as Newton put it to every action there is an equal and opposite reaction. I would speculate that tribology is a bit more complex,
Keep up th good work
Thank you for watching
Is ultra platinum Pennzoil the best oil??
I don’t know for sure, it seems there’s a lot of opinions between Pennzoil and Valvoline
Yes it is
I us Amsoil 2 and I go 25,000 on my cars using Signature Series.
The Signature Series is the top-of-the-line product from Amsoil. And while their other very capable oils are less expensive, I just can't see myself buying "de-engineered" oil to save some money. I am a true "cheap skate" - but not when it comes to engine oil . . . . I have saved a lot of money over the years. I remain a DIYer.
That it extremely stupid of you
I had to question AMSOIL stating it is %100 synthetic ! One video i seen stated even the additives are also %100 synthetic ? Who makes the %100 synthetic oil additives ? AMSOIL ?
I will check on this for you
Thanks@@DrivenWildOutdoors
I would say that it's rare to use additives that's not made synthetic, Amsoil knows how to market the h*ll out of things. 😆
All oil mfg buy the components from a handful of companies that makes either additives or base oils, like mentioned in this video.
Why everyone suddenly desperately "needs" 100% synthetic oil? Are blends etc. "bad" (like useless)?
Synthetic lubricants can't be beat, well maybe just one way, price. But otherwise synthetics kick conventional & blended or semi synthetics oils butt. Also there are no rules or anything that says how much synthetic needs to be in a semi synthetic. I've heard many are like 15% or even much less synthetic so, just use your full or 100% synthetics and don't look back IMHO. I believe AMSOIL gets their additives from Lubrizol, at least they used to. Premium synthetic molecules like PAOs are polar neutral so they don't attack oxygen which when combined with the byproducts of combustion, fuel, moisture turn acidic & break down into varnish and sludge. Along with other positives like thermal stability, low volatility and the ability to clean and keep engine intervals clean.
21:35 Purging? You’re not purging anything. What you describe is what can be called “clear flood mode”. It causes the engine to crank over but the fuel injection system is supposed to withhold fuel by not pulsing the injectors, indirectly causing the engine to not start, unless it actually was flooded and it may sputter to life. The alternate purpose being to get the engine to build oil pressure (thus filling the oil filter, NOT purging it out) without combustion loads on the bearings of the crankshaft and con rod bearings.
Yes, I know the actual term, I just refer to it as purge for the oil aspect. Thanks for watching
Why are the oil manufacturers selling longer OCI also??? I've been doing longer intervals since the late 90s. The problem with today's vehicle owner is they never check their oil! Everyone of these modern engines consumes oil to get fuel mileage. I keep my vehicles topped off and have had no issues with longer drain intervals
I was shocked by 10k mile or one year OCI from Toyota when a coworker bought a new one. But they were using full synthetics, and I know with a good motor that oil will be fine.
So sick of the “yOu ThInK yOu KnOw MoRe ThAn OEM eNgInEer?” Crowd.
Ask those engineers at what mileage they change their oil.
Will synthetic oil prevent sludge?
Yes, as long as you use a good quality brand and change it regularly
Penzoil ultra plat will
Just a quick note. I had a car that went 170,000 miles without an oil change. I used Amsoil Signature Series 100% synthetic, the Amsoil spin-on filter, an Amsoil By-Pass filter combined with an annual oil analysis. After 9 1/2 years, the test ended when the new owned of the vehicle totaled the car.
Wow, that was a lot of miles
@@DrivenWildOutdoors The best oil combined with the best filtration backed up with oil analysis can blow our mind on how far we might go on a single oil change. However, every vehicle, driving condition and engine design will give different results. Oil analysis recommended an oil change in my Tacoma after only 30,000 miles.
The bypass filter was the game changer.
@@NoName-tz5ji Absolutely, true! The by-pass filter takes 10% of the oil passing for filtration and makes it analytically clean, filtering to less than 1 micron. Filter changes provide fresh oil and ultimately the TBN (total base number) moves toward the acid side, and the oil has to be changed.
WHY?
Best diesel oil? Worst diesel oil? Thanks
Let me check on this.
Schaeffer's the best.
My whole family is racist. My dad was a racist and his dad was too. I too like to race cars.
😂
Has anyone ever seen lake and steavo in the same room ?
👍🇨🇦
#every 3000 miles
👍
@@DrivenWildOutdoors
Yeah.
I’m not an off-roader.
I have a 2013 Acura TL.
Bulk Purolator One filters were $5 each.
$29 for a 5 quart jug of Valvoline Max Life, High Mileage, Extended Protection. 0w-20 in the winter, 5w-30 in the summer, in NC.
Oil change every 3k miles for $35, takes me 15 minutes in my garage, less time than it would take to drive to a shop.
Warming up engine before driven vs just cranking it up on a cold engine and immediately driven increase wear?
Automotive field is inferior to other industries. Warming up any machines before loading it, is a basic thing, everywhere. But only in case of cars (especially passenger) there is a doubt and "controversy" (based on how uneducated average Joe is).
Start engine drive away at moderate load and engine speed regardless of temperature, It's in every Handbook produced in the past 30 years.
@@-DC-
Yeah.
He talks about this on some videos on his channel.
In most cases it is actually better to get driving sooner than sitting at idle to warm up.
Because the car gets up to operating temperature quicker, so less time in that temp range when more wear is occurring.
Just have to keep the rpms reasonable while it is still warming up, wait till it’s up to operating temp before hammering it.
Oils are much better these days however i am very fussy with my honey drop s because i like to make 300 thousand club plus 😂
"C" for See Ya Later!
I am somehow stressed out watching this.
But, why did Dick Trickle into Lake Speed ?
You know, you use the term Full Synthetic. Full of what? There was an issue back in the late 90s where mobil sued Castol because of the term Full Synthetic, not sure how much Synthetic was in the jug, I guess mobil thought it should have a certain amount but the judge thought different. So, Full of what? I'm not trying to be sarcastic, but brands do matter. I can testify to this just ask the Harley folks that know oil. They dump out the Harley oil and use Amsoil. Yes I am an independent Amsoil Dealer. My commercial fisherman accts noticed right off the bat, Amsoil vs Yama lube, my client said "wow how quite and free my motor sounds, it's never run this good" so yes it does matter. I can tell you story after story. Full vs 100% there is a difference. I know Lake you hate labels, sorry brother, there is differences, it's how it is put together no matter who the additive company is. Some companies will do bare minimum to pass. Think about it, Lake you said do you want the A student or C student. Do you want Full, Full of what or 100%. A standard or C standard. Do you want the top of the Class surgen or bare minimum surgen. Things to ponder my friends.
Full of an increased additive package on all levels, there are strict guidelines to these oils. Go to Amsoil or Pennzoil, which wins Championship? Let's find out! He also has an oil analysis under the more tab for many full synthetics. Castrol winning that lawsuit resulted in a group III full synthetic that is not a PAO based group IV, or an ester based group V. The group III for normal cars is far better than group II aka conventional oil. Amsoil is Group IV, Redline is group V and there are others, I think Motul and Triax are also in one of those groups.
I don't understand his statement that you can have more wear and less friction. I would think that the less friction, would create less wear with everything else being equal
I understand, it’s hard to wrap your mind around, but the proof is in the testing between building friction and testing the oil for wear. I don’t know this for certain, but I would think this was one of the discoveries that enable engine builders to start cranking out more horsepower with longevity.
Never heard of such assumption, that friction = wear. At least among educated people.
Friction makes more power loss in any mechanism, more temperature. That's basically it.
Wear, abrasive and other actions are separate phenomena. Plus chemistry, speeds/feeds/ load makes a difference (same chemicals/elements can be both "lubricating" and abrasive, depends on situation and grain structure - random example is graphite).
4 ads before 15 minutes. Sorry I had to give up.
TH-cam, sorry
never happend for me... no ads
Duke, duke, duke, duke of oil...
Kinda knew all of it. But there is aspect of money and time. I have Pezo 407 2,0 diesel. So one oil change is 100€ and working engine and labour is 500€. I have no plans to change oil every 3000 or 5000 km. I change it every 15 000 to 30 000 km. So if I change oli at 20 000 km my engine gets worn out in 200 000 km but. If I change oil at 5000 km engine would last 300 000 km. Guess what I changed oil 10 times instead of 40 times. I saved 3000€ on oil 😂😂😂
To be honest, this guy is a joke!
How is that?
I disagree with your remark. Be a adult, be respectful.
To jimcambell
Your a joke