1983-1986 VW Vanagon How to fix Idle Problems
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 ส.ค. 2024
- Have you got a water boxer with issues? This is the answer. Make sure you watch the whole video from start to finish to find all the trouble spots that can affect these engines. From vacuum leaks, to bad spark plug wires, to bad grounds. These engines, with all the mileage and years on them, can encounter many issues.
If your engine was running perfectly, and then it stalled and will not start again, it can be many things. From a bad mass air flow to a fried Idle control computer to bad fuel pump relay or fuel pump. If you want to see a video on how to check for those, please request it below in the comments section.
thank you all my problems solved, the air intake boot have a crack just like your, fix that and now everything is good
Thanks for this mecanic crash course. Very appreciated. Having a problem with my 85' engine that stall on cold start or as soon as the rmp goes under 925 (like when I turn my steering ou goes from reverse to drive, all this within 1 minute after cold start). I'll do the drill and check all you mentioned. I'll keep you posted.
hey thanks for the vid! i have a 85 westy and im on my way from alaska to va and about 3-4k miles into my trip i was having this issue it would die everytime i would start it up. going through your vid i found wat hoses to look at and sure enough found a hole in one of mine. temp fixed it with some elctrical tape. 2k more miles to go! thank you!
Hey Thank you for the information!!! you have touched on a lot of items that could be very irritating for someone that don't work on these all the time. one more thing you could add is show where the fuel pump relay is located and how to check and replace.
Thanks again.
Troy Bowman Thanks so much for the kinds words. make sure to subscribe and click on the Bell for future videos, and I'll see about making that video
Super helpful, thanks from your neighbor on the other side of the Yukon!
check the maf spring tension plate for smooth operation and definitely remove the air intake boot and carefully inspect for leaks. I did a temporary repair on this one until the new one shows up. using brake cleaner spray and rags. then a razor knife to scrape around the cracked are and then used high temperature red RTV silicone. dried overnight inside at room temp and installed it.
However, in your case, I would check the fuel filter for easy blow thru. but don't blow too hard (because if there is a blockage it will pressure up and then release right into your face when u stop blowing)
Learned a lot in 15 min. Thank you ! My 85 was off the road for 5 years, it starts and I have driven it around the neighborhood, replaced the power steering, gas tank is next, and those reservoirs & bleeding are after the gas tank...(I get high temp right at start up and PO said, oh yea, I drove it that way for years !!)
+DanTheManIOM Great to hear, Dan. Not all the Labour of course :P I'm glad
thanks mate, definitely solved a few of my problems. given me ideas too i have an 85 with a carby brought out in the 90s to australia from the uk twin sliding doors is why its mine. the idea of doing an r+r on the carby is doing me in, first ill recheck all possible air leaks and do your gas check to see if anything is leaking. ill go to you first you seem know what your up to. thanks again stay well mate and catch you later
Thanks for all the detail and correct vocabulary naming components. This video made lots of potential issues clear that I need to know. My VW is an '85 Westfalia. It idles fine but loses power upon acceleration. It was suggested that the MAF may be faulty. We'll see.
look up one comment. I forgot to reply directly to your comment
Great Great video. My 86 is just can be abrupt as to on and off throttle. She is harsh , its on or off, not soft in between. this is when on highway or around town. I checked a lot but no solution. otherwise she runs great. Thank you very much even if you do not respond.
the coolant reservoir tank mounts onto the muffler heat shield. ive noticed your ride is missing all of the protective screw-on aluminium sheets that are underneath around the engine. Ive removed mine as well cause aim wrenching on the engine alot, gives me easier access, but make sure you leave the muffler heat shield sheet on.
Great video! I'm having idol issues, and I didn't think about the big manifold leaking.
I have an 84 Westy that's having some rough idle issues. Actually, it used to just die the second I put it in any gear. After about a year in a shop (he said he found no vacuum leaks), I got it back recently and one problem still persists. The engine starts up fine when cold and idles around 6-800, but if I put it in reverse and give it a little gas, the idle drops very low (around 300), signals from the AFM start fluctuating badly, and then the engine sputters and dies. If, however, I turn on the AC, a stabilizer valve must kick in and do what it does to boost the idle (usually to around 900-1200) and I can then go into reverse without dying.
Once the engine is warm, I can usually put it in reverse without needing the AC to boost (not always, but probably better than 50/50). Sometimes, however, if I notice the engine is surging while driving, I have to shut off the AC and bring it back to normal.
I've pulled the connections out of the idle control unit and plugged them together and have noticed no difference in the behavior outlined above. My shoebox electronicx box is telling me the TPS is not signaling at full acceleration, but it is when I take my foot off the gas. When I inspect the TPS manually, I hear a click at the bottom but not at the top. And if I even slightly adjust the idle screw, all hell breaks loose with this engine and I can't even put it in drive without it dying. I love the vehicle, but this problem has been driving me crazy for a year now. Honestly, I'm hesitant to take it anywhere for fear of it sputtering and dying, which kind of defeats the entire reason for owning one of these things. Any help is appreciated.
Did you ever resolve your idle issues?
wolfy your the man. good video
Hey. Im having bucking and jerking when feathering the throttle. ive had a rough idle and then a slight raise in RPM when the engine is at temp. any clues would be welcome. 2.1 syncro 1990
I second this, what was the solution? thanks
could you do a video like this going over a 1982 vanagon? so helpful thanks
Very comprehensive video. I learned a lot in 15 min. My '83 1.9 gas engine hunts while idle, so I will go through each of your suggestions. Thanks.
However, my engine also stalls when the temp gets just slightly above the half way point on the dash gauge and the 1st stage fan comes on. It will then not start until the engine cools a bit and I key the ignition over several times pump extra fuel into the system. I have normal fuel pressure readings and no leaks. However, I noticed that the fuel lines in your engine are routed differently than most that I've seen. Yours are up above the engine block and mine are buried down close to and touching the engine block and all kinds of hot parts. Do you think the routing of the fuel lines could be causing my hot engine stall problem? Could the heated fuel be causing something like a vapor lock? Could keying over the fuel pump be cooling the fuel?
Thanks,
Dwight
Dwight Foster make sure to Burp air out of radiator vent plug on the top passenger's side of the Rad. Having all air bled out as the engine in running facing uphill will make sure the coolant flows non stop.
Your fuel lines should not be near a hear source that could boil it. That makes it spittle and dribble when the injectors attempt to spray. Thus a stall. Use a thermal heat sensor tool to confirm the Actual engine temp. And test the thermostat housing directly to see if the thermostat is regulating.
Check for any vacuum leaks that might be overheating the engine (more air / less fuel = blowtorch inside combustion chambers.... which also can boil the gas too)
Thanks.
Will do the radiator burp.
I also double checked for vacuum leaks and cleaned my gunky rubber boot between the throttle and the Mass Air Flow. Confirmed no leaks with propane.
Rerouted the fuel lines and have not been able to get the engine to hot/stall ever since. Also reduced the timing and idle.
So far, all is well.
Thanks so much for your help and advice.
Dwight
Just to follow-up, my hot-stall problem resurrected its ugly head once the weather got warmer. However, I think I solved the problem with a new-to-me but used distributor. I believe the Hall Sender on my old distributor was bad. Have not had a hot-stall since.
Just re-watched you video again. It is a classic.
Thanks again for your help and advice.
Dwight
Nice jammed packed informative video. So how often does a fuel regulator go bad? My van starts better when cold. Not so good if it's warm. Also it almost stalls when turning or in reverse sometimes.
+Sean Coady I think those fuel regulators went bad in the 90's haha. Check compression when engine is hot. If it's low, that's what the issue is (wear or carbon build up in the piston ring grooves). Otherwise recheck for hot vacuum leaks with unlit propane torch gas around the vacuum hoses, vacuum booster, throttle body, air intake etc. Check spark intensity when hot (coil wear causes lower voltage the longer the engine runs
Great video! Thank you, sir!
It looked like the screw for your idle control switch was screwed in too far. But you didn't move the throttle to hear the click so I don't know for sure, but it may be something to check as well.
oh dang, also the coolant reservoir is normally mounted on the heat shield the mounts to underside of the bumper side of the engine compartment. I was having mad coolant issues and ran had to change out those blue caps nearly every month and when the reservoir finally crackedupgraded mine to the "tank" from Rocky mountain westy: www.rockymountainwesty.com/Vanagon_Aluminum_Expansion_Tank_p/025121403-al.htm
The bleeding of the coolant system is now so much easier as it seems to purge all of the air out during normal operation. Blew my mind.
I have idle issues with my 1.9 DG 1984. Starts fine, but after it starts to warm, it cuts out and won't start until engine has cooled. I cannot figure this out. Any ideas?
Got a buddy with an 86, and he's having idle issues, it'll run fine for about 10 minutes, then it'll start loping and starve out, but he's able to immediately start it again, any tips?
Great Video!!! I have a little problem with my Coolant expansion tank....... it gets filled with coolant and the water comes out from the water sensor Do you know what is causing that? its very odd because the Van does not overheat. I just replaces the tank but still doing the same thing.
Let me know, thanks!!!
hi i have a problem with my t25 1990 waterbox transporter it keeps reving very high now if i take out the black connection to the temp sender it still revs high but not as much, any ideas what might be wrong, could it be a air leak ?
Do you know where the vacuum line is from the booster to the manifold? Because my vanagon is worse when braking I think it might be connected to that line. Thanks in advance!
I have an 83 vanagon that has a rythmic idle undulation of about 1 second from idle to 14-1500 rpm. What is this?
+thomas bonanno sounds like it might be a crack in the air intake hose. Stiff. As engine pulses it opens and closes the crack and idle speed goes up and down as unmetered air volume increases/decreases. Also check every single vacuum line. Take lots of pictures or a narrated video First. Then remove one hose, both ends, and test it. Wet a finger and close off one end with that finger and then suck on the other end and use the tip of your tongue to seal the vacuum. If it releases the vacuum after a few seconds, it's got a leak.
Sometimes it's just smarter to just make a list of lengths on a piece of paper and cut a tiny length off one end of each hose and tape it to the paper next to the length listing, replace the original hose to its nipple and repeat for every single hose. And go to the store to get the right hoses. The new vacuum hoses will be slightly smaller than the cut ends you have for reference
Did you figure it out ? I thought maybe AFM but I’m just learning
I have an '84 1.9L gas waterboxer. I paid a VW mechanic, who does mostly air cooled, to install a new motor and he was unable to get it to idle at all. It fires up nicely and will run with a foot on the gas or a hand at the throttle body, but when you release, it immediately dies. He thinks it's the Idle Control Module mounted on the side of the engine compartment, but we can't find one anywhere. Your video didn't even mention this electronic control box and I can't find it listed in the Bently book. I see it in diagrams, but nothing that says what it does. Can you help me?
To be Frank, I'm not entirely sure if the VW even has an idle control module. Just dont know. I, however, do know that vacuum leaks, improper burping of waterboxer coolant system, cracked intake hoses and a host of other things, like ancient original electronics, rat chewed wires and just plain old Crystalized wires and corroded crimp connectors buried invisibly Inside Connectors will play horrible with your sanity, when it comes to a nice smooth idle.
When it comes to repairing an old VW, I've often thought that it's kind of like, willingly, visiting a dungeon for a nice round of Visiting the torture devices of the past and taking them for a whirl :P
So, that said, and you carefully considering your budget and timeline, you may need to first, ask the opinion of other VW enthusiasts in forums and especially other technicians what they think.
If it were me, and I was Absolutely sure I wanted the waterboxer running pristine for many a year, i would invest in a brand new whole wiring harness. New coolant sensor, remanufactured distributor (or at least checked by a competent mechanic), and clean up all the ground connections everywhere. Just a few ideas off the top of my head.
@@wolfiestechbites3773 great answer!
We have a 1.9 waterboxer the engine wont start on choke have to put foot to the floor to get it going, wont idle, have to keep foot full down to the floor or it dies, cant see any air leaks, have cleaned carb, wondered if you had any ideas please, thanks
Temp 2 sensor
i have a 83 DH mexican carborated model with water cooled having idle problems and going to rebuild carb
so my Vanagon engine dies everytime I stop at a light or stop sign, in idle basically. It starts back up again just fine, but it seems to die a lot very easily. could this solution in your video be the problem?
did you get van sorted?, ive just bought a westy 80 with the same problem
@@expatpedro yes I did, a mechanic sorted it out for me. not exactly sure what he did
TJ K ok at least now I know I can get mine fixed, tell me is yours slow cos I think mines taking the piss it’s a 2L petrol.
Distributed cap firing order 84 vanagon
worthless wasserboxer engine. the very definition of "boat anchor" or "good for nothing scrap metal"
John mine has 400000 on it. Pretty good for scrap metal.
My question for you is how many times have you had to replace the ridiculous rubber band "Head gasket" Water jacket seals? The 84 that I had puked all it's coolant out in a walmart parking lot once. If they had just extended the water jacket and cast a slot/ridge into the head it would have been so much stronger. This design is so poor that the only way to make it even remotely strong would be an extreme measure like welding the head to the water jacket.
John twice! It's still more economical than paying for a new van. If you had a ford or chevy, you would have replaced everything at 100,000. Plus you keep an extra engine under the seat if you have to. lol
+John ... yes, engineers can be very annoying. I wish they were forced to work on their designs before the vehicles go to market. And not on the bench, either Lol
217k and 96k on my 84s Original engines