My TPS sensor on low end - plastic cam worn, not clicking switch. Also, switch at max adjustment. Temporary fix? Carefully bend switch tab to compensate. Will get ya by until you order new adjusting plate. (Low idle when engine cold now works).
Ok here’s an update....I have found that the hose that comes out of the pcv breather tower is not a tight fit and most of the oil comes out of this hose . I will change it with a 3/4 hose used in hydraulic applications . I’m planning on use the “Mann provent 200” to catch the oil .
This TOTALLY seems like it may fix my issues!! Thanks so much. Just out of curiosity, where did you get those hoses on the top there? Mine are still braided and OLD! Thanks again!
Thanks for the vid! Question though... my 86 hardtop vanagon was idling high, around 2500 - 3000 rpms. I used your technique to first... listen for a click on either end (didn't hear any) and then second... adjust left screw position. It was pushed all the way left (likely from the previous owner), so I moved it to the right incrementally, trying to listen for any type of click (still nothing). Then tried starting the van to test the rpms with the new screw position... IT WOULDN'T START! (just cranks but won't turn over). Moved the TPS screw back to it's original position on the far left, Van still won't start! Any advice as to what could be happening here? Thanks!
Hi there. My 2.1 DJ AUTO seems to be playing up. Sometimes when I stop at lights or maybe in traffic the van won’t move when I press the accelerator… it kicks in after about 8 seconds…. Any idea
Hi, My 85 van always had a nice idle on startup but once driving the idle would stay high (no surge, just high) when you stop in traffic. I checked and there was no click when returning to idle but there was a at full throttle. I tried adjusting like this vid explains but I can only find the click at idle almost all the way left and its very sensitive. No matter how hard I try I always loose the click when tightening it back down and now my van feels like it has no power compared to how it ran previously. Any suggestions ?
The problem you can run into is that over the years, things have gone out of adjustment and gotten broken, and people have adjusted timing, etc to try to compensate. The engine could also have zero compression in one cylinder, again timing has been adjusted to work around problems. So you want to do a compression test, see where the engine is health wise, then check the timing with a light. Make sure the vacuum advance and retard are working properly. All of these things need to be right before adjusting this throttle switch will really do what it is supposed to do. If you have a large vacuum leak, it won't do anything either. A general engine health check up is required.
@@kennethwilford9616 Thanks for the reply. I'm certainly no mechanic, that said I'm very proud of what I've managed to do since getting my van and the things I've fixed, but in this case it's a "It aint broke so I fixed it" type situation. My thinking was perhaps it wasn't returning to idle because the computer wasn't getting a signal from the switch that the throttle had been released so I thought it was worth a try since the switch definitely wasn't clicking. I've unfortunately made a mess for myself and I don't have a compression tester or timing light and my nearest VW specialist it a 1 hour drive when she's running poorly. Time to get the professionals to look at it
The accelerator cable doesn't attach to the throttle body on the automatic. It actually attaches to a lever on the side of the transmission. Then a rod comes up from there to the throttle body.
hi i have a problem with my t25 2.1 inj 1990 it is reving like i have my foot right down on the accelerator, i noticed that on your video the arm on the throttle return is facing 12 oclock but there is a spring missing and in the manual it shows it at 9 oclock , does it need this spring
Yes, this spring is required. I didn't have it in this video, but it would need to be installed when the throttle is installed in the Vanagon. It helps return the throttle to idle position.
Hi, did you fix your problem? I have it exactly the same on my 1990 2,1 MV. Tomorrow I will check the click from this video but I am guessing the idle control unit is faulty...
it was the throttle cable that was sticking but we did replace the idle control unit and the water coolent temprature sensor on the left hand side of the engine at the back
so my friend has this 1988 vw vanagon and its running rich and they can't find out why idk what all they have checked could you guide me and what am I should check first
+FranktheTank Peterlin have them turn the van off and then start it back up when it is running poorly to see if that helps it run better for a short time. If it does then the problem is with the oxygen sensor or wiring harness for it.
Great Video - thanks I'm in England and have a 1988 T25 synchro 2.1petrol. Everything works fine apart from when I start it from cold - although it starts perfectly - I have to keep the throttle pressed down slightly other wise it idles at about 800 rpm and will stall within a few seconds. Once warm it idles fine. Any ideas?
+Steve Povall If you have already checked the throttle position switch, then I would suspect the idle stabilizer control unit behind the right rear tail light.
@@stevepovall5974 Hi, wanted to follow up to see if the idle stabilizer was the problem. I have an '84 that has the idle problem, and I'm troubleshooting.
@@SCD-jy2xs Check for vacuum leaks (especially the large air intake boot on throttle body). These always crack over time and will cause issues until engine warms up and cracks close.
+Scott From Scotland the Aircooled Engines have a different style throttle position switch. Actually 2 switches. Adjustment can be done but, how it is accomplished is very different. Maybe I will make a video of that as well.
Great, thanks... I'm having trouble with hot starts.... I can't get the van to run after driving for 10 mins, I have to wait until it cools down. With some carb cleaner sprayed into the plenum, it fires back up so I thought maybe the cold start injector....?? But your fix might also be the problem, thanks, much appreciated
+Scott From Scotland if the cold start injector is on all the time or dripping or if the temperature sensor is bad and telling the ECU the engine is cold all the time, this can be the source of the problem. I would check the temperature sensor first.
My van had sat in the desert for 10 years, rust, not a problem, everything dried and crispy is the problem. I had the engine rebuild from scratch, it starts, revs to about 1500 then settles at around 1000rpm. it will drive (but losing power when I floor it) but if I take it easy it runs fine. so after driving for 10 - 15 mins, when I stop. I try to restart and it just doesn't start. If I spray carb cleaner into the plenum, it starts right up.... I tested the cold start injector with a 12v battery and it's kicking on an off, so seems to be working.... if I can solve this issue I'm ready for my maiden voyage... and of course, I'll be forever grateful for your help
+Scott From Scotland Is the van California emissions or Federal? Federal has points in the distributor and California is electronic ignition. It sounds like either the fuel pump isn't being activated or the injectors aren't pulsing after the van warms up. Could be a problem with the computer or Air Flow Meter.
You just need to buy more than one thing. Spread out the shipping cost. I buy stuff from Europe all the time but it is usually over $500 worth of stuff so the shipping price per item goes way down.
![ไปอยู่ไสมา - ช๊อปเปอร์ โตเกียวมิวสิค [ OFFICIAL MUSIC VIDEO ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/sWuVNbRTJbc/mqdefault.jpg)
We have a 1981 vanagon . Thank You for your vids. I have an idling issue. 🇨🇦Muskoka
My TPS sensor on low end - plastic cam worn, not clicking switch. Also, switch at max adjustment. Temporary fix? Carefully bend switch tab to compensate. Will get ya by until you order new adjusting plate. (Low idle when engine cold now works).
Thank you and please keep making videos like this! It’s very informative. We’ll be buying parts from you soon.
Thanks
Love the information- so clear and simple. pity you are not in Australia
Merci Beaucoup.......from Québec
Awesome, thanks for the explanation and will check you out for parts
thanks kenneth, very interesting. who knew those screws were beneath all that grease ;)
Ken, thanks for the video, I’ll keep up the support.
I’m gonna try to install a oil catch can in my vanagon , to see if I can stop all the oil from the intake manifold. I’ll be updating this soon .
Ok here’s an update....I have found that the hose that comes out of the pcv breather tower is not a tight fit and most of the oil comes out of this hose .
I will change it with a 3/4 hose used in hydraulic applications . I’m planning on use the “Mann provent 200” to catch the oil .
thanks,will try.
liked and Subscribed! More content like this!
Thanks for the kind words
Just a quick video... But worth sooo much!
excellent presentation.
Ken, such an awesome video !!!
This TOTALLY seems like it may fix my issues!! Thanks so much. Just out of curiosity, where did you get those hoses on the top there? Mine are still braided and OLD! Thanks again!
+Christo Xo www.vanagain.com of course! :-)
Thank you 10 Time!!!
You're welcome!
Good video Ken .. I'll keep buying from you
Thank you
Thanks for the vid! Question though... my 86 hardtop vanagon was idling high, around 2500 - 3000 rpms. I used your technique to first... listen for a click on either end (didn't hear any) and then second... adjust left screw position. It was pushed all the way left (likely from the previous owner), so I moved it to the right incrementally, trying to listen for any type of click (still nothing). Then tried starting the van to test the rpms with the new screw position... IT WOULDN'T START! (just cranks but won't turn over). Moved the TPS screw back to it's original position on the far left, Van still won't start! Any advice as to what could be happening here? Thanks!
Hi there. My 2.1 DJ AUTO seems to be playing up. Sometimes when I stop at lights or maybe in traffic the van won’t move when I press the accelerator… it kicks in after about 8 seconds…. Any idea
Throttle position switch adjustment? Tune up?
@@VanAgain that’s what I was thinking…. I’ll have a look.
Awesome.
Hi, My 85 van always had a nice idle on startup but once driving the idle would stay high (no surge, just high) when you stop in traffic. I checked and there was no click when returning to idle but there was a at full throttle. I tried adjusting like this vid explains but I can only find the click at idle almost all the way left and its very sensitive. No matter how hard I try I always loose the click when tightening it back down and now my van feels like it has no power compared to how it ran previously.
Any suggestions ?
The problem you can run into is that over the years, things have gone out of adjustment and gotten broken, and people have adjusted timing, etc to try to compensate. The engine could also have zero compression in one cylinder, again timing has been adjusted to work around problems. So you want to do a compression test, see where the engine is health wise, then check the timing with a light. Make sure the vacuum advance and retard are working properly. All of these things need to be right before adjusting this throttle switch will really do what it is supposed to do. If you have a large vacuum leak, it won't do anything either. A general engine health check up is required.
@@kennethwilford9616 Thanks for the reply. I'm certainly no mechanic, that said I'm very proud of what I've managed to do since getting my van and the things I've fixed, but in this case it's a "It aint broke so I fixed it" type situation.
My thinking was perhaps it wasn't returning to idle because the computer wasn't getting a signal from the switch that the throttle had been released so I thought it was worth a try since the switch definitely wasn't clicking. I've unfortunately made a mess for myself and I don't have a compression tester or timing light and my nearest VW specialist it a 1 hour drive when she's running poorly.
Time to get the professionals to look at it
@@Azzman1000How did you fix this problem?
Hi Guys , got an short on my van , when she runs there is a dip , almost like a 1 sek dip and then short time and completely
shuts down , HELP
Hi! Its probably so simple but How do you remove the acelerator cable from the throttle body? I dont wanna mess anything up lol. Thank you!
There is a screw that is pointing straight up. Loosen that.
@@VanAgain Do you have the circlips or eclips on the front of the accelerator rod on throttle body for sale ?
You have an automatic?
@@VanAgain yes
The accelerator cable doesn't attach to the throttle body on the automatic. It actually attaches to a lever on the side of the transmission. Then a rod comes up from there to the throttle body.
hi i have a problem with my t25 2.1 inj 1990 it is reving like i have my foot right down on the accelerator, i noticed that on your video the arm on the throttle return is facing 12 oclock but there is a spring missing and in the manual it shows it at 9 oclock , does it need this spring
Yes, this spring is required. I didn't have it in this video, but it would need to be installed when the throttle is installed in the Vanagon. It helps return the throttle to idle position.
Hi, did you fix your problem? I have it exactly the same on my 1990 2,1 MV. Tomorrow I will check the click from this video but I am guessing the idle control unit is faulty...
it was the throttle cable that was sticking but we did replace the idle control unit and the water coolent temprature sensor on the left hand side of the engine at the back
Plz can you tell me how throttle position switch work and what its purpose i heard it 1st time plz help me??
Did you watch the video? That is what I explain in it.
@@VanAgain yeah i watch now you tell me .my concept should clear..??
so my friend has this 1988 vw vanagon and its running rich and they can't find out why idk what all they have checked could you guide me and what am I should check first
+FranktheTank Peterlin have them turn the van off and then start it back up when it is running poorly to see if that helps it run better for a short time. If it does then the problem is with the oxygen sensor or wiring harness for it.
Great Video - thanks
I'm in England and have a 1988 T25 synchro 2.1petrol. Everything works fine apart from when I start it from cold - although it starts perfectly - I have to keep the throttle pressed down slightly other wise it idles at about 800 rpm and will stall within a few seconds. Once warm it idles fine. Any ideas?
+Steve Povall If you have already checked the throttle position switch, then I would suspect the idle stabilizer control unit behind the right rear tail light.
Thanks - I will have a look next weekend (dark and rainy here at the moment)
@@stevepovall5974 Hi, wanted to follow up to see if the idle stabilizer was the problem. I have an '84 that has the idle problem, and I'm troubleshooting.
Steve, did you solve this? My 91 has developed the exact same problem this autumn. I will be checking the throttle position switch tomorrow.
@@SCD-jy2xs Check for vacuum leaks (especially the large air intake boot on throttle body). These always crack over time and will cause issues until engine warms up and cracks close.
What year is this van you're talking about? Will this work on an 81 Vanagon, 2.0l Air cooled?
+Scott From Scotland the Aircooled Engines have a different style throttle position switch. Actually 2 switches. Adjustment can be done but, how it is accomplished is very different. Maybe I will make a video of that as well.
Great, thanks... I'm having trouble with hot starts.... I can't get the van to run after driving for 10 mins, I have to wait until it cools down. With some carb cleaner sprayed into the plenum, it fires back up so I thought maybe the cold start injector....?? But your fix might also be the problem, thanks, much appreciated
+Scott From Scotland if the cold start injector is on all the time or dripping or if the temperature sensor is bad and telling the ECU the engine is cold all the time, this can be the source of the problem. I would check the temperature sensor first.
My van had sat in the desert for 10 years, rust, not a problem, everything dried and crispy is the problem. I had the engine rebuild from scratch, it starts, revs to about 1500 then settles at around 1000rpm. it will drive (but losing power when I floor it) but if I take it easy it runs fine. so after driving for 10 - 15 mins, when I stop. I try to restart and it just doesn't start. If I spray carb cleaner into the plenum, it starts right up.... I tested the cold start injector with a 12v battery and it's kicking on an off, so seems to be working.... if I can solve this issue I'm ready for my maiden voyage... and of course, I'll be forever grateful for your help
+Scott From Scotland Is the van California emissions or Federal? Federal has points in the distributor and California is electronic ignition. It sounds like either the fuel pump isn't being activated or the injectors aren't pulsing after the van warms up. Could be a problem with the computer or Air Flow Meter.
Shame shipping to Europe is expensive 😊
You just need to buy more than one thing. Spread out the shipping cost. I buy stuff from Europe all the time but it is usually over $500 worth of stuff so the shipping price per item goes way down.
Is the switch bad if there is no clicking when adjusting?
+Chris Del Medico the clicks are only at the beginning and end of the travel. However if you aren't hearing anything then yes the switch is bad.
Thanks Ken turns out the PO installed the van-cafe TPS. Which I believe is not designed for my unit.
Chris, the only other option would be to buy a used switch or a used throttle body with a switch already installed.
Kenneth Wilford ok, if you get the units for my throttle body please let me know. Thanks
How about not talking when you're telling people to listen