Hi Julie. Scott from Tasmania here. The squares are hand made inserts. They can be incorporated with crochet work or inserts into linen to make anything from bedspreads to tablecloths and clothing. I am a seamstress, tailor and antique dealer, with my family being expert lace makers and embroiders. I have recently sold the majority of my family collection with some items similar to your. Have a fantastic day.
I think the first piece of lace you found was a train off a gown. On the opposite edge was a half circle cut out and I think it fastened to the waist of a gown. The "undergarments" you found look like corset covers, used to cover the boned corset. The onesie like garment you found looks like combinations, a mix of corset cover and bloomer. This is such a treasure, I would, in your shoes contact Abby Cox here on youtube, she is an expert in preserving old garments and could probably give you some advice on cleaning and conserving these amazing treasures❤
I do not have a clue, what most of it except beautiful very old lace. However I do think the little squares, are center's for doilies. My grandmother used to make them. Very time consuming...
I think the frilly lace 10:15 is the strip of fabric that was worn around the shoulders and tucked in their top on front and back. I need Bernadette to help me right now with the name. I think she would be good bring in so she can educate on how women dressed back then and all the different layers
I came here to write a similar comment and here it is already! There is a huge Y/T community studying and reconstruting vintage and antique garments. By all means contact them, and of course, Bernadette would be the most obvious choice!
Handmade lace is precious! A lot of chateau owners in France are recreating centuries old found wallpaper so the world can enjoy them again. Recreating a long lost Mapperton Lace Collection for the world to be able use would be elegant and amazing.
Hi Julie, you have the experience of exhibitions. Put on a lace exhibition. The lace can be mounted in thin frames, or books that can be stored to protect them when not on exhibit. Lace would be an ideal exhibit during wedding season... or garden parties at the cafe!
You could put the tiny mismatched pieces in a shadow box to display the different types of lace and needlework. You could do the same with all the caps.
The garment you held up and thought were under drawers are called combinations. They came in the late 1870s when dresses became quite form fitting they replaced wearing a separate chemise and drawers as having the all in one garment helped reduce bulk under the corset.
Julie. When my grand mother passed I inherited her lace box. In the box were all kinds of pieces of lace. And small laced square like the ones you found. I remember her in the evenings when all the days work was done…. She would work tiny little stitches on these pieces , they would be incorporated into pillow slips, hankies and napkins, table and dresser scarves, as well as blouses and skirts. She never sat and did nothing. Her hands were always busy. I imagine the ladies were the same in their time frame.
Back then lace was precious! You kept lace from other clothes and would put it on a new dress. You didn’t just get rid of clothes! Buttons were removed and reused. All those littlest treasures were important.
I forgot what kind of lace that was, but in a show they talked about lace that ladies would prefer even over jewelry. One single square inch could take up to eight hours (!!!) to make, it was that exquisite and fine. 😳🤩 Made me better understand an Agatha Christie short story where a dishonest maid cut off all the lace trimmings from her lady's clothes before running away... 😦
I've collected "women's work" vintage and antique linens and lace for years. Those stains could be cleaned up by soaking in cold water and powdered brewery wash, then well rinsed and dried before storage. Also avoid hard creases in folding by stuffing with crumpled archival tissue paper. Beautiful things!
Other good cleansers for antique lace and linens (but not silk) are liquid castile soap (just a few drops in a quart of cold water), wool washing liquid (the wool shearing, knitting, and hand-weaving community will know where to get it), and baby shampoo. Just very gentle liquid cleaners, and don't scrub the textiles, just let them soak and change the water when it starts looking dirty. Don't try to get out stubborn stains at home, in that case, consult the Royal School of Embroidery or other textile experts to see what to do. Finish with a soak in plain water, gently press the water out of the lace (rather than wringing it out which will tear it) by putting it on a dry towel, rolling the towel up like a jelly roll with the lace inside it, and gently press the roll with your hand or just let it sit for an hour so the towel can absorb the moisture. Let it air dry, in the sun if you can, but otherwise, indoors where it will not get any wetter and be safe.
The items that you called undergarments are possibly what a lady would wear over her corset. A corset cover. Next to the skin would be a chemise, possibly decorated with some of the lace ribbon. Then there would be the stays (corset), which would not be particularly smooth, so to make sure this did not show through the outer garments, they would wear a corset cover. Corset covers were made from different materials, finely woven for summer use, and heavier for winter. I suspect that a few pieces were fichus. A fichu is a piece of cloth, often decorative, that covered the gap between the chemise and the neck. They were still popular in the early Victorian age, and older ladies still wore them well into the 19th century
You have a few collars in thre Julie, I think the long double tulle piece may be a Bertha collar. The tiny squares were likely appliques which would beused time an again on different clothing. The 4 sided lace will be from a tablecloth, again, used time and again as old worn/ stined items were replaced. You have some really lovely pieces in your treasure bags.
I love all the different “treasure” chests. I love antique, real wood furniture. I’ve several really wonderful pieces that I’ve managed to acquire at yard sales, flea markets and even off Craigslist. A load of soft cloths, some beeswax and a LOT of good old fashioned elbow grease (some days I felt like my arm was going to fall off) has brought these beautiful pieces back to wonderful life. I have a true appreciation of the sheer talent and craftsmanship that was used in the creation of these gorgeous pieces of furniture. I swear, if my daughter gets rid of my labor of love, I will return to haunt her!! 😂🤣
What a glorious find! As a needleworker who has made tatted, knitted, crocheted and needlemade lace, I can really appreciate your treaures. I know the skills and labor that went into their making. Some of the prettiest displays of small lace pieces that I've seen were mounted on black velvet and framed. I would also check with the Royal School of Needlework to identify the type of lace used. They would also be able to mend any needle laces that need repairing. It was also common to make small practice pieces of crocheted or knitted motifs to keep as a pattern reference for future use or even to share with others. Enjoy your treasures. Love your videos!
Lace was used much more in the days gone by & even in the 1960s I made a lot of doilies & crocheted lace around them & even crocheted doilies. These days we don't use doilies on dressing tables & runners on tables like we did in the past. I still have a few I kept but the rest I got rid of several years ago as I wasn't using them anymore. I even have what were called samplers that my mother sewed & crocheted as a girl at school. Also I used to crochet samples of different patterns & have them tucked away somewhere, so that when I wanted to crochet an edge, I would look at my samples of the patterns to get an idea of what I wanted. Some of the lace squares may have been prepared in order to make a quilt for a bed etc. Something I was doing many years ago but never finished as the times changed & fashions changed. I even have a supper cloth I never finished as I was looking for the right crochet edging to put around it & once married I never had a small table to use it on anyway, so over 50 years later it is still in a box somewhere waiting for its lace border. These days I have arthritis in my hands & so don't do any of these crafty things I loved doing. And my daughter & granddaughter never inherited the love of crafting these things.
I collect old lace and handmade linens. I find lace collars and cuffs are often kept. Makes sense, given the work that goes into lacemaking. The underwear piece looks like a Victorian one piece undergarment with open crotch as that’s how pantaloons were made too. The one piece garments were in lieu of wearing a chemise and separate pantaloons. Imagine using the loo in the clothes they wore!
Try to get a consultation with Bernadette Banner, a garment historian. She could probably help you identify the different garments and how to restore and store them.
What you refer to as pantaloons, are called a pair of pantalets or split drawers. ladies started wearing those at the beginning of the 19th century. With all the structure and a series of several petticoats, split drawers made it much easier when you needed to go to the loo. LOL. The other Undergarments are several chemisettes or corset covers. They would smooth out the harsh shape of the corset under the dress layer. day caps, lady's false sleeves
My mom made replicas of clothing. From the 1800’s, she would know. She also did medieval costumes for madrigal singing groups. She made historical costumes for historical sites around the US. How I wish she was alive to watch this with me!!
I adore Julie & her enthusiasm; this is one of my favorite channels. But, sometimes Julie stresses me out with her handling of such delicate things! 🤣💜
A lot of clothing had separate piece like front, cuffs, collars that are interchangeable able. Things that got dirtier than the rest of the clothing. That way you change for fresher cuffs and etc without washing the entire garment. Lace takes a lot of time and skill to make. Even today, handmade lace is valuable. Contact Barbara Banner or Abby Cox, both are dress historians.
The word in the Titanic letter before the word event is the word "untoward" which means unfortunate, unexpected, etc. The little bits of lace might be bits cut off from garments since lace was expensive, it would have been re-used. The little squares of lace might have been lace pattern samples. I've seen a knitting book that had little lace samples in it. Knitting patterns were not written a precisely as they are now, so sometimes a sample of the pattern was produced.
Tea cozies are actually tea cosy covers and they go over the actual tea cosy. My aunt used to embroider and I have a tea cosy cover that she made and looks similar to yours 😊
Oh! I had another thought. MaybeJulie, you could employ some embroiderers to recreate your tea cosy covers and sell them in your shop? I bet the one a good seller 😊
The lace ribbon could be displayed in a glass picture frame box with a coloured deep velvet background. An exhibition of all the lace displayed in one room. Absolutely gorgeous pieces!
I would love for you to invite a costume historian and do an episode explaining these items and others you have in textile boxes. As a fashion designer I live for historical apparel. I can’t believe these items had been stored in yard waste bags, at least that’s what it looks like to my American eyes. You have treasure chests of beautiful items!
Most of lace from that trunk is all hand made lace..a bag from seamstress that repaied lace underwear and lace on dresses...I am so jealous of ur lace collection...beautiful part of history...❤😊
Julie i just had a great idea. You know how everything that belongs to the royal family is logged or preserved procured saved stored... Every note or piece of paper. Every letter. Every picture. Clothing gifts from other Rulers Kings. Everything is kept and stored. So whomever retired or still working for the royal family can help you WITH ALL OF YOUR DISCOVERIES. YES. THERE HAS GOT TO BE SOMEONE
Lace was something salvageable as clothes wore out. It was saved to be repurposed. Victorian summer dresses were made with many different laces sewn together with light weight lawn for airy blouses and skirts. The vest like tops look like those worn over the corset, a shift next to the skin, corset then the vest to create volume under the top, making the waist to appear smaller- Gibson girl like , Victorian era. Hope this helps.
I think some of the smaller lace pieces were worn around the top of a dress and tucked into the neckline…the gathered piece may have been pinned to the back of the hair. Just a thought.
I think the gossamer scarf like pieces at the beginning of the video are each a 'Fichu' that would be tucked in the shoulders and decolletage of a low cut dress. They may be very old because that was a pre-19th century kind of thing to wear. Also worn in the Georgian period.
Lace was very expensive and made by the inch.Many garments had interchangeable parts, often sleeves, waist coats and boleros, collars and laces, shawls and capes, hats and caps, ribbons, lace, and attire. They were attachable by ribbons, extensions on corners and sides, and pinned. Tacking and stitching was not encouraged to minimze damage. Colors were similar or removed and washed separately with items of similar color and heaviness again to better protect garments and deasures that all were hand sewn, and woven and knotted as in crochet as in lace.
The 16th century peg box with the note from Olga looks very valuable. Perhaps you should research how to properly clean and restore the box. Looks like a delicate project to me. I know funds are tight but it might be a safe idea to have a professional restore it.
The letter starts out "Your telegram of welcome reached me", not letter or McCloud. 🙂 Later, I believe it says "not an untoward event". I'm certain the last part is "toward" and having "un" in front makes sense. Untoward event means an unexpected event that causes difficulties or unwanted effects, such as the sinking of the Titanic. "Her Marconi gram cry of distress reached our ship at 1 Sunday a.m. and till 2:20 we were in fainter (?) communication"
Julie, you need to find an old school teacher, they can read much of this writing. I could read a great deal of it, and was yelling at the screen so you could hear it, lol!! I'd be glad for you to send me some scans, and let me read through them for you. Old school teachers can read a great deal of things, and sometimes, even doctor's handwriting!! Would be happy to help!
My mom would make pillow cases with all those scraps. Shabby Chic was popular several years ago and she would put these together to make a case, she had two exquisite pillows on her bed...they look lovely on a bed... that would be a good use for the scraps. the squares you saw are "pulled thread" embroidery pieces, they'd put them together for various decorative pieces such as doilies etc. They put a doily under every ceramic piece so as not to scratch the wood.
I think the lace with the gathered, ruffled edge might be a shawl worn over a summer dress. Some of the pieces of lace look like they might have been cut out of old garments in order to save the lace. Or maybe they were worked separately, thinking they would eventually go into a garment? To be sitting in an ancient house, going through years of beautiful old lace, is my idea of heaven! Thanks for this video, Julie.
What a collection, from lace caps, Bloxworth bonnets, lace shawls, lace head covers, and please don’t open the parasol, I admit I had clenched teeth there, 🫣the silk is so delicate it will keep splitting, the lace front vest is an insert from late Victorian period, most pieces are from mid to late Victorian, this is so exciting. Love your blouse Julie, you have great style. 🙂
The little lace caps are called snoods I think. I could spend hours going thru antique lines and lace….This has been very therapeutic,thanks for sharing.
My great gran & her church sewing ladies would salvage lace, embroidery, buttons, frog closures etc. they would share samples to use as guidelines to do their own pieces or repair pieces for people or the church.
I love the Titanic letter. I volunteered at the Titanic exhibit at the Museum of Idaho. A very moving experience. So the letter has a special meaning. P.S. The curator for the exhibit was from London. Neat gal. Called everybody "love." 😊
Not sure if someone commented this already but RMS Caronia was the first ship that warned the Titanic that were icebergs the night the ship hit the iceberg... they telegraphed there were "bergs, growlers and field ice".
Mr & Mrs Biggs (Kate Douglas Higgins) are on board and were introduced to each other by the Capatin of the Titanic! Mr and Mrs George Young, he of the British Embassy in Washington were also on board.
Some of those unusual pieces at around 9.55mins in, are what I think are a "fichu (/ ˈfiːʃuː /, from the French "thrown over") is a large, square kerchief worn by women to fill in the low neckline of a bodice. It originated in the United Kingdom in the 18th century and remained popular there and in France through the 19th with many variations". I have seen them (I believe) used as a kind of piece used above the bodice and at the cleavage showing outside the garment but tucked around the undergarments. I could be wrong, but that's what I think they are. Fab finds, I love this kind of video, thank s for sharing.
I would seek out how to wash these garments and textiles prior to storing in order to keep them preserved. The tiny pieces of lace, trim, crochet were likely removed from dresses as when historic garments were cleaned or washed, the delicate pieces were removed and then reattached. I think some of the white lace or netting cap-like pieces were 'day' head coverings - maybe 18th or 19th century?
Hi Julie. Hats on both of you was great. The head band little hats was to cover the ladies buns in her head. They were used around the house. I just love lace always on the hunt for it, even just little scraps. I make journals using lace for covers, note cards, side pages or for pockets in side of the journal. The letter about the Titanic was an awesome find, wow. I’m sure the gifts you’re sending out they will love them. Oh the first lace you put on really does look like a veil and the one with the ribbon is a veil.
The little baby looking lacey thing is a baptismal cape. Some babies wore them instead of dresses when getting baptized. Also, the little jacket thing almost after it is a corset cover. (I wear corsets & highly love these little garments.) They look like from a wedding troussou The patchwork pieces look like children's kerchiefs. The lace piece with the wire - they are hats worn when doing house chores. lol, I think this trunk is a treasure trove of beautiful things. Royal or gentry tea parties used more than one tea cozy - all matching & very tricky to have as lace & some fabrics were restricted to certain households.
I think it would be really fantastic if you took the lace bits and incorporated them into a family quilt, or maybe something like a family tree quilt. Just a thought. It would be a fun project.
Hi Julie, I think the “headbands” were placed over a woman’s bun and pinned in place. Also, lace was very valuable and they would never throw it away. They repurposed it. The napkins, depending on size, are probably handkerchiefs. The undergarments were worn in several layers. To keep the outer garment clean. I saw where one commenter advised getting Bernadette Branner to come look at the clothing. She is very knowledgeable and will definitely be able to help you. Thanks for sharing! I love old textiles.
My great grandmother would remove the tatted edging from table clothes and runners when the cloth would get worn or stained and save them for future projects so that might be what the 4 sided lace piece is.
Julie, the blouse/top with the small laces at the bottom is a "dickey" which was a false front worn under a jacket. Menswear had them as well as shirt fronts. Google has more information.
Those "squares" could be detail cut outs from a larger piece like a table covering. The set of small needlework swuares are probably crocheting or tatting you would create by themselves then inset in cloth.
and at timestamp 13:44 that is a corset cover that goes over the corset to help smooth out the lines of the corset so it wouldnt be seen through the outer garment layer
Lace trims like collars and cuffs were often tacked or pinned to a garment so they could be easily removed for laundering or for wear on another garment. Ribbons have an interesting history. Weaving silk ribbons was an English cottage industry until overtaken by imported ribbons from France. I suppose there are experts who can identify them.
The undergarment you were wondering about that looked like a "combination" was either a Victorian or Edwardian undergarment. Bernadette Banner did a video or two on designing/recreating a pair on her TH-cam channel, which might answer your questions.
What you called napkins are handkerchiefs I believe. And the table runners are called dresser scarves for the tops of chests and dressers so they wouldn’t be scuffed up by the items you placed on top.
Hi Julie, Those "trunk" are actually called "coffers". I have one I bought at Stowe-on-the-Wold. By the way, if you need another virtual helper, I'm available. Barbara in Indiana
22:23 Marconigram messages were the amazing wireless communication that was used on the Titanic to send messages through the air. It was a very new technology to have on a ship. Sadly, near by ships did not respond to the Titanic’s messages pleading for help.
I know someone else will have mentioned that perhaps an idea would be to unpack each trunk and inventory what is in it, then repack them all in a sensible and organized way. That's just my little garage straightening, spice cabinet alphabetizing, closet organizing, Virgo nitpicky, semi compulsive orderliness talking. It makes me crazy when I know I have a 'thing' and I cannot put my hand on it quickly and easily.
The piece of lace you're looking at at the 8 minute mark may have been a lace train. I think you had it upside down, as the part nearer the floor looked like it was meant to be at the waist. The lace at the 10.14 mark looks like a fichus, a kind of scarf worn around the neck in the 1700's. You also have a number of corset covers, and a pair of combinations. (11.21 minute mark) You have a bunch of salvaged lace. A lovely treasure trove.
The open bloomers were worn under a cage crinoline with those very full victorian dresses around 1860s. The lace small blouse was probably a corset cover.
How do all your family bring the family history back to life? Have you all been through every building on the property? Have you been through every room in the home? I believe most of the lace is obvious as to its nature while all the bits are just to be used for sewing. Watching your family in action is like watching National Geographic or The History Channel even better. I look forward to whats next. God bless the volunteers. I hope you finish some of these projects
Lace/silk was so expensive that when young ladies' outgrown dresses or dresses were damaged, they would take the lace/silk bits off to reuse on new gowns or make other bits from, even make christing clothes and hats for babies or add to wedding dresses
I was confused about the Titanic letter so I looked up Kate Wiggin Riggs. She wrote "Rebecca of Sunnybrook Farm." She and her husband were introduced by Captain Smith a few years before the Titanic sank. She was actually a good friend of his. She was very sad when he went down with the ship.
With the lace ribbons you could make a lace insertion skirt, dress or blouse or if home decor is more what you are interested in, curtains using the lace or more table cloths using the lace, placemats and if you have door with sidelights, you could make hangings that cover the sidelights.
The long narrow piece of lace could be fiscu (the one after the gathered piece). An idea for some of the smaller pieces of lace is to just frame it. Clean it and maybe figure out it's age and just frame it on some lovely matting to show of the artistry.
Hi Julie, love your vlog! You can buy the conservation acid free boxes for each dress, the V&A will advice you where to buy the bespoke boxes and the acid free tissue. I think they might even contact someone to assist you in folding, inventorying as well as selling you some mannequins. Good luck! Doris might be able to assist! If I lived nearby I would love to help, but I'm in Norfolk!
❤❤As a vintage lace collector, I was drooling over these INCREDIBLE laces. Please do several videos on just the lace, showing closeups. Each piece is a masterpiece of creativity and skill. If you need help in archiving or researching, this Californian gal will be on the next plane to assist you.I love, love, love vintage lace. I think about the women making it and the care they use to create something so lovely. It’s remarkable how much has withstood time and still look lovely. My collection has many from the Victorian era. The bridal head piece you showed is stunning!💕 BTW: it’s charming how you go in and out with a British accent, especially within a single sentence. It’s cute.
Such a wonderful find!! Craft idea.... Christmas/holiday Angels.... layering the lace as dresses, to sell at your Christmas/Holiday Fair to earn funds for your one of many projects on the estate . I am always looking forward to seeing what you discover next! 🥰
Possibly the lace pieces that have gathers could be a lace shawl or collar for ladies, Certainly the V&A Museum would have examples of some of those lace finds. Or would have some reference material that could help identify lace and what they were used for
Lace was handmade and expensive. So they would take them off a old garment and save the bits for a new dress, blouse, etc... You could incorporate the scraps into a quilt, pillowcases or Table cloths. Or I have seen them reused in stylish jackets also.
Many of the item you shared, particularly the multiples of squares/same shape, appear to be the beginnings of bedspreads, table cloths/runners, or similar. The squares are each individually made then stitched together to make the complete piece. There is also a difference between crocheting and tatting, the latter being MUCH more labor intensive. The strips of lace are also likely tatted. Suggestion for repurposing would be to find a lace or quilting artist who can arrange them onto a fixed backing in a beautiful pattern to be used as a spread or a throw. Also wonder if it’s needle work from a member of the family - seems less likely they would have saved a “half done” project from a servant?? Suspect they are pieces done by a family member. Good luck!
Your findings in those trunks are real treasures! Your family is so fortunate to have you to save and document everything! You are so enthusiastic, Julie, and a joy to follow! Love from Pennsylvania, USA 💕🌷🐻
You need to invite someone (or two!) from the Royal School of Needlework to come and evaluate what you have there. Cathy Hay is a Brit with oodles of knowledge about antique garments and so is Bernadette Banner.
Hi there. When I saw the squares of needlework I thought they they looked like hardanger embroidery. Hardanger embroidery/lace was used in both household linens and clothing.
They used to have sleeves removeable, as it was easier to launder the soiled sleeves, rather than the entire garment. I'm sure other pieces were removeable as well, collars, panels, ect. Hope this helps.
God Bless you Viscountess if you weren’t inquisitive around the manor these items may have never been brought to our attention “great work” Another most intriguing episode you are the savour of Mapperton Manor. Thank you and God bless you all 😇🙏🏰
The things you wondered if they were coasters I think may have been lace inserts for the front/chest area of a white Victorian baby dress. Often this was the decorated part of the dress, the rest being plain. Maybe?
The smaller square pieces, could have been used to insert camphor blocks in. They were pinned on to your singlet, so that you wouldn't get sick in winter.
I think those tiny squares of lace were used to put between the material of a dress or whatever and a brooch or medal of some kind, to protect the fabric of the garment.
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👻 @ 7:34 was that a ghostly groan evp or disembodied voice after you said it needed repairs?
Hi Julie. Scott from Tasmania here. The squares are hand made inserts. They can be incorporated with crochet work or inserts into linen to make anything from bedspreads to tablecloths and clothing. I am a seamstress, tailor and antique dealer, with my family being expert lace makers and embroiders. I have recently sold the majority of my family collection with some items similar to your. Have a fantastic day.
You should have a look around all the portraits to see if any of the pieces you found today are being worn in them.
Great tip.
I think the first piece of lace you found was a train off a gown. On the opposite edge was a half circle cut out and I think it fastened to the waist of a gown. The "undergarments" you found look like corset covers, used to cover the boned corset. The onesie like garment you found looks like combinations, a mix of corset cover and bloomer. This is such a treasure, I would, in your shoes contact Abby Cox here on youtube, she is an expert in preserving old garments and could probably give you some advice on cleaning and conserving these amazing treasures❤
Bernadette Banner is a TH-cam creator who knows a great deal about old garments. I believe she lives in London.
Oh definitely, do a collaboration with Bernadette
I do not have a clue, what most of it except beautiful very old lace. However I do think the little squares, are center's for doilies. My grandmother used to make them. Very time consuming...
I was also going to mention Bernadette. She would be an excellent collaborator on a video, of course if she would be willing.
I think the frilly lace 10:15 is the strip of fabric that was worn around the shoulders and tucked in their top on front and back. I need Bernadette to help me right now with the name. I think she would be good bring in so she can educate on how women dressed back then and all the different layers
I came here to write a similar comment and here it is already! There is a huge Y/T community studying and reconstruting vintage and antique garments. By all means contact them, and of course, Bernadette would be the most obvious choice!
Handmade lace is precious! A lot of chateau owners in France are recreating centuries old found wallpaper so the world can enjoy them again. Recreating a long lost Mapperton Lace Collection for the world to be able use would be elegant and amazing.
Love that idea ❤❤❤❤❤
Hi Julie, you have the experience of exhibitions. Put on a lace exhibition. The lace can be mounted in thin frames, or books that can be stored to protect them when not on exhibit. Lace would be an ideal exhibit during wedding season... or garden parties at the cafe!
You could put the tiny mismatched pieces in a shadow box to display the different types of lace and needlework. You could do the same with all the caps.
The garment you held up and thought were under drawers are called combinations. They came in the late 1870s when dresses became quite form fitting they replaced wearing a separate chemise and drawers as having the all in one garment helped reduce bulk under the corset.
Julie. When my grand mother passed I inherited her lace box. In the box were all kinds of pieces of lace. And small laced square like the ones you found. I remember her in the evenings when all the days work was done…. She would work tiny little stitches on these pieces , they would be incorporated into pillow slips, hankies and napkins, table and dresser scarves, as well as blouses and skirts. She never sat and did nothing. Her hands were always busy. I imagine the ladies were the same in their time frame.
Back then lace was precious! You kept lace from other clothes and would put it on a new dress. You didn’t just get rid of clothes! Buttons were removed and reused. All those littlest treasures were important.
My grandmothers both did those things so I have small bags of buttons from the 1800s thru last week. Lots of lace too.
I forgot what kind of lace that was, but in a show they talked about lace that ladies would prefer even over jewelry. One single square inch could take up to eight hours (!!!) to make, it was that exquisite and fine. 😳🤩 Made me better understand an Agatha Christie short story where a dishonest maid cut off all the lace trimmings from her lady's clothes before running away... 😦
@@thekingsdaughter4233did you mean bobbin lace, or tatted lace?
@@pollyb.4648 I can't throw out anything with buttons still on it!
@@AVToth Of course not lol. Or zippers, buckles or magnets!
I've collected "women's work" vintage and antique linens and lace for years. Those stains could be cleaned up by soaking in cold water and powdered brewery wash, then well rinsed and dried before storage. Also avoid hard creases in folding by stuffing with crumpled archival tissue paper. Beautiful things!
Great tip!
Other good cleansers for antique lace and linens (but not silk) are liquid castile soap (just a few drops in a quart of cold water), wool washing liquid (the wool shearing, knitting, and hand-weaving community will know where to get it), and baby shampoo. Just very gentle liquid cleaners, and don't scrub the textiles, just let them soak and change the water when it starts looking dirty. Don't try to get out stubborn stains at home, in that case, consult the Royal School of Embroidery or other textile experts to see what to do. Finish with a soak in plain water, gently press the water out of the lace (rather than wringing it out which will tear it) by putting it on a dry towel, rolling the towel up like a jelly roll with the lace inside it, and gently press the roll with your hand or just let it sit for an hour so the towel can absorb the moisture. Let it air dry, in the sun if you can, but otherwise, indoors where it will not get any wetter and be safe.
A soak in sodium percarbonate works as well.
Definitely get them into acid-free archival materials! Such treasures!
@@Betharoot that's the same as PBW. works great and doesn't damage the fabric.
The items that you called undergarments are possibly what a lady would wear over her corset. A corset cover.
Next to the skin would be a chemise, possibly decorated with some of the lace ribbon. Then there would be the stays (corset), which would not be particularly smooth, so to make sure this did not show through the outer garments, they would wear a corset cover.
Corset covers were made from different materials, finely woven for summer use, and heavier for winter.
I suspect that a few pieces were fichus. A fichu is a piece of cloth, often decorative, that covered the gap between the chemise and the neck. They were still popular in the early Victorian age, and older ladies still wore them well into the 19th century
Yes, there were a few corset covers in there.
I thought fichu as well!
The bonnets might have been worn over the bun and forward under an open bonnet.
You have a few collars in thre Julie, I think the long double tulle piece may be a Bertha collar. The tiny squares were likely appliques which would beused time an again on different clothing. The 4 sided lace will be from a tablecloth, again, used time and again as old worn/ stined items were replaced. You have some really lovely pieces in your treasure bags.
I was looking at those tiny pieces too, and they looked to me like insets that you'd find on fine linens (like tablecloths), or pillows.
I love all the different “treasure” chests. I love antique, real wood furniture. I’ve several really wonderful pieces that I’ve managed to acquire at yard sales, flea markets and even off Craigslist. A load of soft cloths, some beeswax and a LOT of good old fashioned elbow grease (some days I felt like my arm was going to fall off) has brought these beautiful pieces back to wonderful life. I have a true appreciation of the sheer talent and craftsmanship that was used in the creation of these gorgeous pieces of furniture. I swear, if my daughter gets rid of my labor of love, I will return to haunt her!! 😂🤣
What a glorious find! As a needleworker who has made tatted, knitted, crocheted and needlemade lace, I can really appreciate your treaures. I know the skills and labor that went into their making. Some of the prettiest displays of small lace pieces that I've seen were mounted on black velvet and framed. I would also check with the Royal School of Needlework to identify the type of lace used. They would also be able to mend any needle laces that need repairing. It was also common to make small practice pieces of crocheted or knitted motifs to keep as a pattern reference for future use or even to share with others. Enjoy your treasures. Love your videos!
Lace was used much more in the days gone by & even in the 1960s I made a lot of doilies & crocheted lace around them & even crocheted doilies. These days we don't use doilies on dressing tables & runners on tables like we did in the past. I still have a few I kept but the rest I got rid of several years ago as I wasn't using them anymore. I even have what were called samplers that my mother sewed & crocheted as a girl at school. Also I used to crochet samples of different patterns & have them tucked away somewhere, so that when I wanted to crochet an edge, I would look at my samples of the patterns to get an idea of what I wanted. Some of the lace squares may have been prepared in order to make a quilt for a bed etc. Something I was doing many years ago but never finished as the times changed & fashions changed. I even have a supper cloth I never finished as I was looking for the right crochet edging to put around it & once married I never had a small table to use it on anyway, so over 50 years later it is still in a box somewhere waiting for its lace border. These days I have arthritis in my hands & so don't do any of these crafty things I loved doing. And my daughter & granddaughter never inherited the love of crafting these things.
I collect old lace and handmade linens. I find lace collars and cuffs are often kept. Makes sense, given the work that goes into lacemaking. The underwear piece looks like a Victorian one piece undergarment with open crotch as that’s how pantaloons were made too. The one piece garments were in lieu of wearing a chemise and separate pantaloons. Imagine using the loo in the clothes they wore!
Try to get a consultation with Bernadette Banner, a garment historian. She could probably help you identify the different garments and how to restore and store them.
What you refer to as pantaloons, are called a pair of pantalets or split drawers. ladies started wearing those at the beginning of the 19th century. With all the structure and a series of several petticoats, split drawers made it much easier when you needed to go to the loo. LOL. The other Undergarments are several chemisettes or corset covers. They would smooth out the harsh shape of the corset under the dress layer. day caps, lady's false sleeves
My mom made replicas of clothing. From the 1800’s, she would know. She also did medieval costumes for madrigal singing groups. She made historical costumes for historical sites around the US.
How I wish she was alive to watch this with me!!
I adore Julie & her enthusiasm; this is one of my favorite channels. But, sometimes Julie stresses me out with her handling of such delicate things! 🤣💜
Lol. I know what you mean. Im ready to put on plastic gloves and get a tweezer
@@lorig7077 White cotton gloves!
Julie has explained wearing of gloves on textiles is not supposed to be done. She explained this when she found the dresses.
A lot of clothing had separate piece like front, cuffs, collars that are interchangeable able. Things that got dirtier than the rest of the clothing. That way you change for fresher cuffs and etc without washing the entire garment. Lace takes a lot of time and skill to make. Even today, handmade lace is valuable. Contact Barbara Banner or Abby Cox, both are dress historians.
Sorry about correcting it, but I wanted to make sure Julie could find her if wanted. Her name is Bernadette Banner.
The word in the Titanic letter before the word event is the word "untoward" which means unfortunate, unexpected, etc. The little bits of lace might be bits cut off from garments since lace was expensive, it would have been re-used. The little squares of lace might have been lace pattern samples. I've seen a knitting book that had little lace samples in it. Knitting patterns were not written a precisely as they are now, so sometimes a sample of the pattern was produced.
I was also shouting "untoward" at my phone ! LOL
Tea cozies are actually tea cosy covers and they go over the actual tea cosy. My aunt used to embroider and I have a tea cosy cover that she made and looks similar to yours 😊
Oh! I had another thought. MaybeJulie, you could employ some embroiderers to recreate your tea cosy covers and sell them in your shop? I bet the one a good seller 😊
Lace and underwear exhibit coming soon to maperton! You could display some of the lace in shadow boxes ?
Great idea! Also you could invite other collectors, if needed, to enhance the exhibit and draw a bigger audience.
The lace ribbon could be displayed in a glass picture frame box with a coloured deep velvet background. An exhibition of all the lace displayed in one room. Absolutely gorgeous pieces!
I would love for you to invite a costume historian and do an episode explaining these items and others you have in textile boxes. As a fashion designer I live for historical apparel. I can’t believe these items had been stored in yard waste bags, at least that’s what it looks like to my American eyes. You have treasure chests of beautiful items!
Most of lace from that trunk is all hand made lace..a bag from seamstress that repaied lace underwear and lace on dresses...I am so jealous of ur lace collection...beautiful part of history...❤😊
Julie i just had a great idea. You know how everything that belongs to the royal family is logged or preserved procured saved stored... Every note or piece of paper. Every letter. Every picture. Clothing gifts from other Rulers Kings. Everything is kept and stored. So whomever retired or still working for the royal family can help you WITH ALL OF YOUR DISCOVERIES. YES. THERE HAS GOT TO BE SOMEONE
P.S. lace was valuable-you didn’t throw it away.
Lace was something salvageable as clothes wore out. It was saved to be repurposed. Victorian summer dresses were made with many different laces sewn together with light weight lawn for airy blouses and skirts. The vest like tops look like those worn over the corset, a shift next to the skin, corset then the vest to create volume under the top, making the waist to appear smaller- Gibson girl like , Victorian era. Hope this helps.
I think some of the smaller lace pieces were worn around the top of a dress and tucked into the neckline…the gathered piece may have been pinned to the back of the hair. Just a thought.
I think the gossamer scarf like pieces at the beginning of the video are each a 'Fichu' that would be tucked in the shoulders and decolletage of a low cut dress. They may be very old because that was a pre-19th century kind of thing to wear. Also worn in the Georgian period.
Crochet many little squares, then either sew or crochet them together to make many things (shawls, baby blankets, bed covers, ect...).
Lace was very expensive and made by the inch.Many garments had interchangeable parts, often sleeves, waist coats and boleros, collars and laces, shawls and capes, hats and caps, ribbons, lace, and attire. They were attachable by ribbons, extensions on corners and sides, and pinned. Tacking and stitching was not encouraged to minimze damage. Colors were similar or removed and washed separately with items of similar color and heaviness again to better protect garments and deasures that all were hand sewn, and woven and knotted as in crochet as in lace.
The 16th century peg box with the note from Olga looks very valuable. Perhaps you should research how to properly clean and restore the box. Looks like a delicate project to me. I know funds are tight but it might be a safe idea to have a professional restore it.
The letter starts out "Your telegram of welcome reached me", not letter or McCloud. 🙂
Later, I believe it says "not an untoward event". I'm certain the last part is "toward" and having "un" in front makes sense. Untoward event means an unexpected event that causes difficulties or unwanted effects, such as the sinking of the Titanic.
"Her Marconi gram cry of distress reached our ship at 1 Sunday a.m. and till 2:20 we were in fainter (?) communication"
Julie, you need to find an old school teacher, they can read much of this writing. I could read a great deal of it, and was yelling at the screen so you could hear it, lol!! I'd be glad for you to send me some scans, and let me read through them for you. Old school teachers can read a great deal of things, and sometimes, even doctor's handwriting!! Would be happy to help!
My mom would make pillow cases with all those scraps. Shabby Chic was popular several years ago and she would put these together to make a case, she had two exquisite pillows on her bed...they look lovely on a bed... that would be a good use for the scraps. the squares you saw are "pulled thread" embroidery pieces, they'd put them together for various decorative pieces such as doilies etc. They put a doily under every ceramic piece so as not to scratch the wood.
I think the lace with the gathered, ruffled edge might be a shawl worn over a summer dress. Some of the pieces of lace look like they might have been cut out of old garments in order to save the lace. Or maybe they were worked separately, thinking they would eventually go into a garment? To be sitting in an ancient house, going through years of beautiful old lace, is my idea of heaven! Thanks for this video, Julie.
What a collection, from lace caps, Bloxworth bonnets, lace shawls, lace head covers, and please don’t open the parasol, I admit I had clenched teeth there, 🫣the silk is so delicate it will keep splitting, the lace front vest is an insert from late Victorian period, most pieces are from mid to late Victorian, this is so exciting. Love your blouse Julie, you have great style. 🙂
The little lace caps are called snoods I think. I could spend hours going thru antique lines and lace….This has been very therapeutic,thanks for sharing.
My great gran & her church sewing ladies would salvage lace, embroidery, buttons, frog closures etc. they would share samples to use as guidelines to do their own pieces or repair pieces for people or the church.
I love the Titanic letter. I volunteered at the Titanic exhibit at the Museum of Idaho. A very moving experience. So the letter has a special meaning. P.S. The curator for the exhibit was from London. Neat gal. Called everybody "love." 😊
Not sure if someone commented this already but RMS Caronia was the first ship that warned the Titanic that were icebergs the night the ship hit the iceberg... they telegraphed there were "bergs, growlers and field ice".
Mr & Mrs Biggs (Kate Douglas Higgins) are on board and were introduced to each other by the Capatin of the Titanic! Mr and Mrs George Young, he of the British Embassy in Washington were also on board.
I don't understand how they were introduced by the captain of the Titanic because he went down with the ship🤔
WITH RIBBONS YOU CAN MAKE A FABRIC SAMPLE BOOK! Label them from year , era, etc , the remnants you can’t use, sell them
Some of those unusual pieces at around 9.55mins in, are what I think are a "fichu (/ ˈfiːʃuː /, from the French "thrown over") is a large, square kerchief worn by women to fill in the low neckline of a bodice. It originated in the United Kingdom in the 18th century and remained popular there and in France through the 19th with many variations". I have seen them (I believe) used as a kind of piece used above the bodice and at the cleavage showing outside the garment but tucked around the undergarments. I could be wrong, but that's what I think they are.
Fab finds, I love this kind of video, thank s for sharing.
I would seek out how to wash these garments and textiles prior to storing in order to keep them preserved. The tiny pieces of lace, trim, crochet were likely removed from dresses as when historic garments were cleaned or washed, the delicate pieces were removed and then reattached. I think some of the white lace or netting cap-like pieces were 'day' head coverings - maybe 18th or 19th century?
Hi Julie. Hats on both of you was great. The head band little hats was to cover the ladies buns in her head. They were used around the house. I just love lace always on the hunt for it, even just little scraps. I make journals using lace for covers, note cards, side pages or for pockets in side of the journal. The letter about the Titanic was an awesome find, wow. I’m sure the gifts you’re sending out they will love them. Oh the first lace you put on really does look like a veil and the one with the ribbon is a veil.
You should invite Bernadette Banner down for the weekend and have a collaboration regarding all the old lace and clothing
The little baby looking lacey thing is a baptismal cape. Some babies wore them instead of dresses when getting baptized. Also, the little jacket thing almost after it is a corset cover. (I wear corsets & highly love these little garments.) They look like from a wedding troussou The patchwork pieces look like children's kerchiefs. The lace piece with the wire - they are hats worn when doing house chores. lol, I think this trunk is a treasure trove of beautiful things. Royal or gentry tea parties used more than one tea cozy - all matching & very tricky to have as lace & some fabrics were restricted to certain households.
I love going through our old stuff 😂 I promise I would never get bored of this ✅
Old fabric pieces fascinate me. All, or almost all of that lace would have been made by hand. That’s a lovely find, Julie!
I think it would be really fantastic if you took the lace bits and incorporated them into a family quilt, or maybe something like a family tree quilt. Just a thought. It would be a fun project.
Hi Julie, I think the “headbands” were placed over a woman’s bun and pinned in place. Also, lace was very valuable and they would never throw it away. They repurposed it. The napkins, depending on size, are probably handkerchiefs. The undergarments were worn in several layers. To keep the outer garment clean. I saw where one commenter advised getting Bernadette Branner to come look at the clothing. She is very knowledgeable and will definitely be able to help you. Thanks for sharing! I love old textiles.
My great grandmother would remove the tatted edging from table clothes and runners when the cloth would get worn or stained and save them for future projects so that might be what the 4 sided lace piece is.
wonderful volunteer work and so nice you shared the reward 👏
Julie, the blouse/top with the small laces at the bottom is a "dickey" which was a false front worn under a jacket. Menswear had them as well as shirt fronts. Google has more information.
Those "squares" could be detail cut outs from a larger piece like a table covering. The set of small needlework swuares are probably crocheting or tatting you would create by themselves then inset in cloth.
and at timestamp 13:44 that is a corset cover that goes over the corset to help smooth out the lines of the corset so it wouldnt be seen through the outer garment layer
Possibly a simple jabot with the gathering, and maybe some trim to fill in a neckline, similar to a fichu.
Lace trims like collars and cuffs were often tacked or pinned to a garment so they could be easily removed for laundering or for wear on another garment.
Ribbons have an interesting history. Weaving silk ribbons was an English cottage industry until overtaken by imported ribbons from France. I suppose there are experts who can identify them.
The undergarment you were wondering about that looked like a "combination" was either a Victorian or Edwardian undergarment. Bernadette Banner did a video or two on designing/recreating a pair on her TH-cam channel, which might answer your questions.
Regarding the letter, it’s says “not an untoward event,” meaning not expected or convenient.
What you called napkins are handkerchiefs I believe. And the table runners are called dresser scarves for the tops of chests and dressers so they wouldn’t be scuffed up by the items you placed on top.
Hi Julie, Those "trunk" are actually called "coffers". I have one I bought at Stowe-on-the-Wold. By the way, if you need another virtual helper, I'm available.
Barbara in Indiana
22:23 Marconigram messages were the amazing wireless communication that was used on the Titanic to send messages through the air. It was a very new technology to have on a ship. Sadly, near by ships did not respond to the Titanic’s messages pleading for help.
I know someone else will have mentioned that perhaps an idea would be to unpack each trunk and inventory what is in it, then repack them all in a sensible and organized way. That's just my little garage straightening, spice cabinet alphabetizing, closet organizing, Virgo nitpicky, semi compulsive orderliness talking. It makes me crazy when I know I have a 'thing' and I cannot put my hand on it quickly and easily.
The piece of lace you're looking at at the 8 minute mark may have been a lace train. I think you had it upside down, as the part nearer the floor looked like it was meant to be at the waist. The lace at the 10.14 mark looks like a fichus, a kind of scarf worn around the neck in the 1700's. You also have a number of corset covers, and a pair of combinations. (11.21 minute mark) You have a bunch of salvaged lace. A lovely treasure trove.
I want to play dress-up with Julie SO BAD right now. LOL!
The open bloomers were worn under a cage crinoline with those very full victorian dresses around 1860s. The lace small blouse was probably a corset cover.
How do all your family bring the family history back to life? Have you all been through every building on the property? Have you been through every room in the home? I believe most of the lace is obvious as to its nature while all the bits are just to be used for sewing. Watching your family in action is like watching National Geographic or The History Channel even better. I look forward to whats next. God bless the volunteers. I hope you finish some of these projects
Lace/silk was so expensive that when young ladies' outgrown dresses or dresses were damaged, they would take the lace/silk bits off to reuse on new gowns or make other bits from, even make christing clothes and hats for babies or add to wedding dresses
I was confused about the Titanic letter so I looked up Kate Wiggin Riggs. She wrote "Rebecca of Sunnybrook Farm." She and her husband were introduced by Captain Smith a few years before the Titanic sank. She was actually a good friend of his. She was very sad when he went down with the ship.
With the lace ribbons you could make a lace insertion skirt, dress or blouse or if home decor is more what you are interested in, curtains using the lace or more table cloths using the lace, placemats and if you have door with sidelights, you could make hangings that cover the sidelights.
The long narrow piece of lace could be fiscu (the one after the gathered piece). An idea for some of the smaller pieces of lace is to just frame it. Clean it and maybe figure out it's age and just frame it on some lovely matting to show of the artistry.
Hi Julie, love your vlog! You can buy the conservation acid free boxes for each dress, the V&A will advice you where to buy the bespoke boxes and the acid free tissue. I think they might even contact someone to assist you in folding, inventorying as well as selling you some mannequins. Good luck! Doris might be able to assist! If I lived nearby I would love to help, but I'm in Norfolk!
Longer piece with the ruffling is a scarf used usually with a brooch to filll in a too.low neckline.
❤❤As a vintage lace collector, I was drooling over these INCREDIBLE laces. Please do several videos on just the lace, showing closeups. Each piece is a masterpiece of creativity and skill. If you need help in archiving or researching, this Californian gal will be on the next plane to assist you.I love, love, love vintage lace. I think about the women making it and the care they use to create something so lovely. It’s remarkable how much has withstood time and still look lovely. My collection has many from the Victorian era. The bridal head piece you showed is stunning!💕
BTW: it’s charming how you go in and out with a British accent, especially within a single sentence. It’s cute.
How exciting for me in Australia (winter time) to diiscovee with you. I think you should get an award from the King...O B E . Thanks Julie❤😊
Such a wonderful find!! Craft idea.... Christmas/holiday Angels.... layering the lace as dresses, to sell at your Christmas/Holiday Fair to earn funds for your one of many projects on the estate . I am always looking forward to seeing what you discover next! 🥰
Possibly the lace pieces that have gathers could be a lace shawl or collar for ladies, Certainly the V&A Museum would have examples of some of those lace finds. Or would have some reference material that could help identify lace and what they were used for
When you do go through them maybe put a list of what is in it and tape to inside the container
Lace was handmade and expensive. So they would take them off a old garment and save the bits for a new dress, blouse, etc... You could incorporate the scraps into a quilt, pillowcases or Table cloths. Or I have seen them reused in stylish jackets also.
Many of the item you shared, particularly the multiples of squares/same shape, appear to be the beginnings of bedspreads, table cloths/runners, or similar. The squares are each individually made then stitched together to make the complete piece.
There is also a difference between crocheting and tatting, the latter being MUCH more labor intensive. The strips of lace are also likely tatted.
Suggestion for repurposing would be to find a lace or quilting artist who can arrange them onto a fixed backing in a beautiful pattern to be used as a spread or a throw.
Also wonder if it’s needle work from a member of the family - seems less likely they would have saved a “half done” project from a servant?? Suspect they are pieces done by a family member.
Good luck!
I would make some of the smaller lace pieces into Christmas tree decorations - tiny pillows.
I have collected lace 60yrs..love all lace..
Stunning wedding veil❤
Your findings in those trunks are real treasures! Your family is so fortunate to have you to save and document everything! You are so enthusiastic, Julie, and a joy to follow! Love from Pennsylvania, USA 💕🌷🐻
You need to invite someone (or two!) from the Royal School of Needlework to come and evaluate what you have there. Cathy Hay is a Brit with oodles of knowledge about antique garments and so is Bernadette Banner.
I simply love all your textiles. As a modern seamstress I go green with envy ! Your work at Mapperton is awesome!
I just LOVE a good trunk opening! An untrunking, if you will.
Hi there. When I saw the squares of needlework I thought they they looked like hardanger embroidery. Hardanger embroidery/lace was used in both household linens and clothing.
At 9:45 is a bonnet veil the gathering went on the brim of the bonnet and the piece at 12:16 is a chemisette.
They used to have sleeves removeable, as it was easier to launder the soiled sleeves, rather than the entire garment. I'm sure other pieces were removeable as well, collars, panels, ect. Hope this helps.
God Bless you Viscountess if you weren’t inquisitive around the manor these items may have never been brought to our attention “great work” Another most intriguing episode you are the savour of Mapperton Manor. Thank you and God bless you all 😇🙏🏰
Those napkins look smaller. They may be handkerchiefs? The little patches are to work into embroidery because everybody did embroidery!🙂
The things you wondered if they were coasters I think may have been lace inserts for the front/chest area of a white Victorian baby dress. Often this was the decorated part of the dress, the rest being plain. Maybe?
The smaller square pieces, could have been used to insert camphor blocks in. They were pinned on to your singlet, so that you wouldn't get sick in winter.
I think those tiny squares of lace were used to put between the material of a dress or whatever and a brooch or medal of some kind, to protect the fabric of the garment.