It seems like the C4 discussions are full of optispark discussions, this video should answer any questions folks might have. I learned a lot from what you did here.😎
Excellent information. Im working on a 1995 LT-1, backfiring through TB , rough idle ,now no start. Have injector pulse and coil is firing. After troubleshooting per FSM , i think optispark. My first experience with this engine , i own a 1990 ZR-1, and my buddy asked me to take a look at his car. I still have a couplr more tests to run , no codes at all. Thank you for making this video , im leaning towards opti.👍👍🏁🏁
You know it seems harder anymore to keep things factory stock Delco. I have a 90 L98 that I didn't want to go after market on parts. Somethings aren't MFG. GM anymore and the ones that are from China. My intake had an oil leak on the rear RTV seal. So, to put the old EGR, air sensor and EGR vac solenoid back, it seemed easier to replace while the upper part of the tpi was off. I bought GM Delco parts to replace these items. Well, everything was good till it got warm, and started showing a code for the EGR. Removed everything again and tested the Valve. No Vacuum. Replaced with an aftermarket and tested before install. Still pulling codes when it warmed up. The EGR vacuum valve GM mind you was cracked. Not that you could see it. reinstall Old Valve and everything was happy. Yup when it says made in China GM Delco, it's time to go with the best aftermarket you can find. Like you I really dislike doing the same thing twice. Sorry you had this happen with your vett. Glad you shared your issues. Maybe it will help someone down the line with the same issues.
Are you going to do a video with you using the new meter. A lot of people wluld like to know what the opti output should be at various rpm. The diagnostic manual only says to measure key on voltage ( 5v) , but i would like to lnow what running signal looks like, or at least what it measures with a digital multimeter on DC or AC scale ?
Thanks for doing this. I also just ordered a Petris. I had a great conversation with Chris, the owner. It is a small family owned business. Every unit is tested right there in his Alabama workshop, and every screw has lock tight on it. It comes with vacuum lines and check valves and a cleanable filter in the vent system. BTW Love your competition yellow vette. I have had 4 C4s and one C5. Three were yellow. Did not care for the C5s millennium yellow color. My current Vette is a 96 torch red. I could not find a Yellow 96 one with low miles when I was looking 6 years ago (the 96 has OBD2 which is a help for trouble shooting). Only 488 yellow ones made in 96. 4,400 torch red ones made. I have been thinking about buying a spare PCM/ECU while they are still available. Any thoughts on this? Again, thanks for the post. I still have the original Opti in mine and will rebuild it and keep as a spare.
That isn't a Mitsubishi sensor, they have a Mitsubishi symbol on them. Next time buy a Petris and don't take chances being stranded. I've rebuilt hundreds of these, and thousands of the non vented versions, the OEM units do not fail. They need a clean up and a new cap and rotor, sometimes a new bearing, and they will easily last 25+ years. Use the MSD cap and rotor kit from Summit Racing to rebuild the OEM distributor and you're laughin.
Since this is the first one I’ve taken apart, I’m not sure what the actual internal adjustments are supposed to be, but anything would be a better than having a drag on the optical sensor.
I was thinking the same thing. Figure it was rebuilt by someone getting paid sweatshop money and they put that shim on the wrong side of the wheel... I've heard the Mitsubishi sensors never fail either. There was guy that used to just clean them up, replace the rotor, coil, plug wires, and they'd be good for another 100k... I'd probably just go with Petris.
Hello. I replaced my opti only a few thousand miles ago. on my 94` Z28. Just started stalling after about 15-20 min. after warmed up. then will not start till it sets for about 10 min or so. I got a DTC16 Distributor Ignition System (Low Resolution Pulse). sounds like opti distributor or maybe coil?
I bought a relatively inexpensive graphing voltmeter to look at the signals out of the optispark, and that’s really the only way you can see what it’s doing with the high and low resolution signals.
Years of saving money to buy a C4 and now my dream turned into a nightmare. I am disheartened. Thanks for the excellent video.
It seems like the C4 discussions are full of optispark discussions, this video should answer any questions folks might have. I learned a lot from what you did here.😎
Thank you, we all learned together! I was very surprised!
That shim should be under the wheel not on top. thatd give it the proper space to not rub the sensor.
Excellent information. Im working on a 1995 LT-1, backfiring through TB , rough idle ,now no start. Have injector pulse and coil is firing. After troubleshooting per FSM , i think optispark. My first experience with this engine , i own a 1990 ZR-1, and my buddy asked me to take a look at his car. I still have a couplr more tests to run , no codes at all.
Thank you for making this video , im leaning towards opti.👍👍🏁🏁
This car has me mentally exhausted and my pocketbook bleeding. 😢
@@SrColon309 sorry to hear that. I finally have had some fun with mine
You know it seems harder anymore to keep things factory stock Delco. I have a 90 L98 that I didn't want to go after market on parts. Somethings aren't MFG. GM anymore and the ones that are from China. My intake had an oil leak on the rear RTV seal. So, to put the old EGR, air sensor and EGR vac solenoid back, it seemed easier to replace while the upper part of the tpi was off. I bought GM Delco parts to replace these items. Well, everything was good till it got warm, and started showing a code for the EGR. Removed everything again and tested the Valve. No Vacuum. Replaced with an aftermarket and tested before install. Still pulling codes when it warmed up. The EGR vacuum valve GM mind you was cracked. Not that you could see it. reinstall Old Valve and everything was happy. Yup when it says made in China GM Delco, it's time to go with the best aftermarket you can find. Like you I really dislike doing the same thing twice. Sorry you had this happen with your vett. Glad you shared your issues. Maybe it will help someone down the line with the same issues.
The reason the time disk hit the sensor is the smaller spacer goes on first then the timing disk.
We all know that, apparently they didn’t 😂
Should have sent it back to Rock Auto for warranty replacement
I did, they sent me another. I gave it to my friend he put it on his LT1 Caddy
Are you going to do a video with you using the new meter. A lot of people wluld like to know what the opti output should be at various rpm. The diagnostic manual only says to measure key on voltage ( 5v) , but i would like to lnow what running signal looks like, or at least what it measures with a digital multimeter on DC or AC scale ?
I can do that it’s gonna take me a while. I’m having to pull the transmission. Lost my 3-4 clutches
Unreal. The most important part, done incorrectly.
Thanks for doing this. I also just ordered a Petris. I had a great conversation with Chris, the owner. It is a small family owned business. Every unit is tested right there in his Alabama workshop, and every screw has lock tight on it. It comes with vacuum lines and check valves and a cleanable filter in the vent system. BTW Love your competition yellow vette. I have had 4 C4s and one C5. Three were yellow. Did not care for the C5s millennium yellow color. My current Vette is a 96 torch red. I could not find a Yellow 96 one with low miles when I was looking 6 years ago (the 96 has OBD2 which is a help for trouble shooting). Only 488 yellow ones made in 96. 4,400 torch red ones made. I have been thinking about buying a spare PCM/ECU while they are still available. Any thoughts on this? Again, thanks for the post. I still have the original Opti in mine and will rebuild it and keep as a spare.
That's very interesting.my brother has a Cadillac with what seems like same problem.
Some are made wrong .and the timing is off . Check it with your old one where the rotor is
That isn't a Mitsubishi sensor, they have a Mitsubishi symbol on them. Next time buy a Petris and don't take chances being stranded.
I've rebuilt hundreds of these, and thousands of the non vented versions, the OEM units do not fail. They need a clean up and a new cap and rotor, sometimes a new bearing, and they will easily last 25+ years.
Use the MSD cap and rotor kit from Summit Racing to rebuild the OEM distributor and you're laughin.
Yes I bought a Petris and it was already installed when I made this video, the car runs great put a couple thousand miles on it
Do you have any for sale?
@@philpeate6938 yes but i'm in Australia, and i rarely sell them without also doing the installation.
I don't use a cap without brass contacts on my 94 Z28. They are much better.
Torquehead !
Do you think putting the shim under the wheel would give you enough clearance?
Since this is the first one I’ve taken apart, I’m not sure what the actual internal adjustments are supposed to be, but anything would be a better than having a drag on the optical sensor.
I was thinking the same thing. Figure it was rebuilt by someone getting paid sweatshop money and they put that shim on the wrong side of the wheel... I've heard the Mitsubishi sensors never fail either. There was guy that used to just clean them up, replace the rotor, coil, plug wires, and they'd be good for another 100k... I'd probably just go with Petris.
Hello. I replaced my opti only a few thousand miles ago. on my 94` Z28. Just started stalling after about 15-20 min. after warmed up. then will not start till it sets for about 10 min or so. I got a DTC16 Distributor Ignition System (Low Resolution Pulse). sounds like opti distributor or maybe coil?
I bought a relatively inexpensive graphing voltmeter to look at the signals out of the optispark, and that’s really the only way you can see what it’s doing with the high and low resolution signals.
Low pulse is from the opti.
How is the Petris holding up ? My Optispark just crapped out
It’s running perfectly. I’ve got about 6000 trouble free miles so far.
@@yeller95vette awesome that’s great to hear . Hoping to order one tomorrow.
Thats a double square bit
Unfortunately you didn’t inspect the opti-spark you installed to fix the issue. You might be back to square one again on another 4 hour job.
I put a Petris Opti in, and it’s run flawlessly for thousands of miles.
Amazing but they got there money so it’s all good for them . Except I’m not buying one.
Don't ever expect to return anything to Rockauto, even when they straight up send the wrong parts.
I never had a problem ! I do have wrong clutch in box sent but return would be impossible after five years of ownership
Hows the new opti running so far?
Running excellent, pleased with results
I’ve got a couple thousand miles on it and it’s still running perfect
@@yeller95vette awesome and thank you
I hope you got a refund on the crappy one.
They actually warranted and sent me a new one, which I sold cheap to a friend of mine for his low rider Cadillac
Only buy msd 2:18
MSD why they have a new version is that the vented or non vented?