We Just want to say Thank you to everyone that reached out by commenting here, emails and IG messages. We’re not pro’s and it’s a learning process everyday as we progress. So again, we appreciate everyone’s input and tips, keep them coming as we continue to post more and more videos. It’s appreciated more than you know. 🙏🙏 Sincerely, Your favorite Malakas ❤️
Malaka MotorSports Im in the learning process. Too my second VRT building.. utilizing VEMS from lugtronic. Like your build man you guys are doing a great job.. ive been vr6 for about 20 years now.. great motor. Wanted to try a different project.. transfering motor to A4. Alaways wanted to . But I heard you get alit of rear end problem?
Hi guys i don't think you should have put assembly lube under the main bearings there's a good chance they will spin plus it will tighten the clearance between the bearing and the crank itself.
@@Pppppppppppppppppppppppppppp66 Okey well it has happen for other People when the bearing tolerance gets to tight and heats starts building up and the to "stop bumps" on the bearings break. And yes a crank shaft bearing round
Surfaces that aren't meant to spin should not be lubed. Other than that, look forward to the rest of the build. My 12v had oil pressure issues to come to find I had bad bearings. So rebuilding my engine too
WOW ! I learned something new today ! After seeing around 300 1000hp plus motors being put together by the very best Marine, Drag, F1, Rally, and Road Race engine builders in the business, they all forgot to lube under the Main Bearings ! I now know something new ! Oye Vey ! Good Luck with that !
Good to see you guys back ! Stav don't forget to plastie gauge your bearing clearances on the main caps and rod caps to avoid lock ups. Also I believe assembly lube under bearings is not recommended. I built my forged Audi 1.8t this way pushing 30 psi ,E85, with a GT35r turbo, no problems at all . Don't forget to file ring gaps for high boost (bigger gap) Keep up the good content guys your doing well 👍
I agree with others, only lube the bearing to crank face...please take the crank out and clean the bearings and case with ATF, fit dry then only lube this face. Would leave the head gasket dry as well. Really Looking forward to this build and dyno time, the the grudge races!
thank you jesus i'm not the only one who saw that. friction bearings are a crush fit that little tab can't keep the bearing from spinning in the block it's the pressure of clamping the main caps on that holds them in place and when you put a thick assembly lube between the block and bearing it distorts the bearing locking up the engine and in your case you got lucky and just got hot spots but it can easily smoke a crank.
Like the video, but yeah, don't lube the back side of the bearings guys. That lifts the bearing up allowing greater chance for the bearing to spin. I'm going to build another VR6 for a beetle soon.
12v or 24v... it's ALL good! Great to see this build progressing! Cannot wait for first drive and dyno! Lots of feta, spanakopita, ouzo and metaxa will be consumed watching your superb videos! YASOU from Cleveland!
As a lot of people have already mentioned do not lube under the main bearing shells it stops them seating properly which changes the bearing clearances onto the crank and aids them coming loose and spinning
hola Malaka, finally new content , my opinion is that this is a very good content and that these more should have a little spicy pics, how do you two do it, thank you guys , you have made my day , greetings from Croatia
It's actually better to use reverse osmosis water or filtered rain water. Distilled water has 0 minerals or metals in it at all, sounds good but it means the water will actually leech minerals and metal from the cooling system. Nothing really wrong with distilled, still better than tap water.
Great content as always George and Stav! As others have said, no lube on the backs of the bearings. Other than that, I love your videos and IG posts. Always brightens my day!
Just a heads up if no one else has said! you have to get the mains align honed when using arp main bolts as the added torque makes them go out of round!
@@jrrockett after a small search, vr6 12v main bearings are torqued to 22-30ft.lbs then a 90 degree turn. I would say doing a stepped torque is different and probably going to end up higher than stock torque settings. they arnt checking the clearance so it doesnt really matter.
@@bazzaf246 30 plus 90 dagree turn meh that's probably more then 60ft.lbs due to them possibly being torque to yield. The arp bolts aren't designed to stretch. When I installed the their Head bolts it's 3 steps to 80ft.lbs. Set it and forget it. Haven't had any issues after 4 years now and about 72k miles
why do you lube the main caps before the main bearings go in? is that not a cause of spinning bearings? Or does that not apply here because you have the indent in the mains that hold them in place?
No lube on backside of bearings...just in case you didn't know. ;) LOL, but seriously! And I hope you guys are checking bearing clearances...don't forget to check thrust clearance too. Dial indicator, mics and bore gauges are must haves IMO...some get by with Plastigauge.
I'm interested in getting an Audi TT VR6 or a VW R32 and having the engine fully built with a turbo putting down around 550 whp. Basically a budget super car.
Oiling the back of the bearing shells is a no no. If you want to have good lubrication on first start up leave the spark plugs out and turn the motor over until the oil light goes out and stays out.
Great work, thank you, will be doing 83mm pistons. Have you put together one 2.8 12v with 83mm or know of someone who did? Was that a happy ending? Thanks,
Malaka MotorSports thanks for replying guys, been binge watching videos since finding your channel! Is there any performance differences between the two or is it just personal preference which one you run?
@@jordanmchattie9773 stock for stock 24v makes more than 12v, most say 12v sounds better, harder to get turbo parts for 24v than the 12v, not really much other than accessibility, parts more expensive for the 24v... 12v uses coil pack as opposed to the individual coils on the 24v. Nothin much truthfully. 24v come with 6speed, my swapped 24v uses a 12v 5speed, the heads are different as well, I can't find any 24v aftermarket headers but plenty for 12v.
Unlikely your new connecting rods weigh the same as your old ones, your rottating assembly balance will be off, possibly by a lot. Did you even balance your rotating assembly on the first build? Great your sharing stuff, and your learning, but an engine assembly manual will prevent a lot of mistakes, like the ones already mentioned in the comments.
I'm usually wrong, but this time I'm right... Great video guys. Great proyect, coud you give us some cost numbers of boosting a stock block vs a build one. Cheers!
I’d definitely upgrade that torque wrench for this job and you should also google using peanut butter for all those studs. Make sure the surface RA of that block is like a mirror for the metal headgasket, it will be better insurance than that shitty copper spray ;)
We Just want to say Thank you to everyone that reached out by commenting here, emails and IG messages.
We’re not pro’s and it’s a learning process everyday as we progress.
So again, we appreciate everyone’s input and tips, keep them coming as we continue to post more and more videos. It’s appreciated more than you know. 🙏🙏
Sincerely,
Your favorite Malakas ❤️
Looking forward to see the epic 12v and 24v HP battle 🙏
Hey boss can you write out the full parts list boss I've reached out to usp I'm trying to a monster for my b7s4
Shoutout all the fron south africa and with love please guys provide us with more videos cause we is really loving them
Malaka MotorSports
Im in the learning process. Too my second VRT building.. utilizing VEMS from lugtronic. Like your build man you guys are doing a great job.. ive been vr6 for about 20 years now.. great motor. Wanted to try a different project.. transfering motor to A4. Alaways wanted to . But I heard you get alit of rear end problem?
Done a few of these. Don't oil under the bearing only the surface that touches a moving part. It even says this in the Bentley.
I respect you guys for not claiming to know everything and being open to suggestions
keon26able Thank you, we appreciate everyone’s input, and we’re learning everyday we wrench. We are only professional Malakas, lol 😂
Hi guys i don't think you should have put assembly lube under the main bearings there's a good chance they will spin plus it will tighten the clearance between the bearing and the crank itself.
They're not going to spin. They're not round
@@Pppppppppppppppppppppppppppp66 Okey well it has happen for other People when the bearing tolerance gets to tight and heats starts building up and the to "stop bumps" on the bearings break. And yes a crank shaft bearing round
Glad i'm not the only one that saw this.
Surfaces that aren't meant to spin should not be lubed. Other than that, look forward to the rest of the build. My 12v had oil pressure issues to come to find I had bad bearings. So rebuilding my engine too
Nice job
WOW ! I learned something new today ! After seeing around 300 1000hp plus motors being put together by the very best Marine, Drag, F1, Rally, and Road Race engine builders in the business, they all forgot to lube under the Main Bearings ! I now know something new ! Oye Vey !
Good Luck with that !
Never lube the back side of the bearings it Greatly increases risk of spinning a bearing. Always apply bearings to a clean dry surface.
Good to see you guys back ! Stav don't forget to plastie gauge your bearing clearances on the main caps and rod caps to avoid lock ups. Also I believe assembly lube under bearings is not recommended. I built my forged Audi 1.8t this way pushing 30 psi ,E85, with a GT35r turbo, no problems at all . Don't forget to file ring gaps for high boost (bigger gap) Keep up the good content guys your doing well 👍
I agree with others, only lube the bearing to crank face...please take the crank out and clean the bearings and case with ATF, fit dry then only lube this face. Would leave the head gasket dry as well.
Really Looking forward to this build and dyno time, the the grudge races!
I just showed this to my engines class on what NOT TO FUCKING DO.
Patiently waiting for Part 2
underrated.
Cars Overdose 🙏🙏
Sitting alone in my car eating mall chinese food and watching the beginning of this engine build 👍
Hey guys don't think you should put any lube beneath the main crank bearing it should be dry
Check out this video from Real street performance about lubing the back of a bearing
th-cam.com/video/yAt-fkTntjE/w-d-xo.html
Stop lubing the backs of your bearings!!! No wonder your last motor locked up!!!
Exactly. I watched it 5-10 times to ensure my vision is correct. Omg
It even says not to in the Bentley
Shade tree “fill in the name Motorsports” now on TH-cam. 🤦♂️
thank you jesus i'm not the only one who saw that. friction bearings are a crush fit that little tab can't keep the bearing from spinning in the block it's the pressure of clamping the main caps on that holds them in place and when you put a thick assembly lube between the block and bearing it distorts the bearing locking up the engine and in your case you got lucky and just got hot spots but it can easily smoke a crank.
Spotted that too....had to double check. Never lube the back oc yout crank bearings...EVER. They will just spin
Like the video, but yeah, don't lube the back side of the bearings guys. That lifts the bearing up allowing greater chance for the bearing to spin.
I'm going to build another VR6 for a beetle soon.
12v or 24v... it's ALL good! Great to see this build progressing! Cannot wait for first drive and dyno! Lots of feta, spanakopita, ouzo and metaxa will be consumed watching your superb videos! YASOU from Cleveland!
Glad to see a decent 12v build video ! I can’t wait to see the progress! Looking good guys I dig the gold block
As a lot of people have already mentioned do not lube under the main bearing shells it stops them seating properly which changes the bearing clearances onto the crank and aids them coming loose and spinning
Very nice you guys just keep getting better and better!!
Should get yourselves a nice ultrasonic cleaning tank, makes everything sparkle and super clean.
Stav is relentless!!!! haaa always good content. good ish glad to see yall back.
Great job kathiki’s!
I cant wait to finish my 12v! Hoping to make 700hp and throw it in my s14!
that would be an interesting project for shure!
Hey welcome back guys, keep up the good work.
Man you guys keep me motivated
You guys are the best ! You gave me alot of confidence to start my channel on my mk2 jetta vr6 !
Yo, this is awesome. I have a 1993 Passat GLX that I'm hoping to turn into a fun little sleeper, and this re-boosted my confidence.
Very excited for this!
hola Malaka, finally new content , my opinion is that this is a very good content and that these more should have a little spicy pics, how do you two do it, thank you guys , you have made my day , greetings from Croatia
Great stuff thanks for the video!!!
love seeing these updates! 😎
Awesome! Good Luck!
Uhm, isn't oil under the crank mainbearings a big NO NO? 🤔 Bearing spinn and the faulty bearing clearance will occur in my experience. 😕
Absolutely a bad idea to have grease under the bearings.
Check out this video from Real street performance about lubing the back of a bearing
th-cam.com/video/yAt-fkTntjE/w-d-xo.html
It's actually better to use reverse osmosis water or filtered rain water. Distilled water has 0 minerals or metals in it at all, sounds good but it means the water will actually leech minerals and metal from the cooling system.
Nothing really wrong with distilled, still better than tap water.
TheCrazySquirell appreciate the tip and info 🙏🙏
Great video guys👍🏼
Nice build awesome
Thanks for the vids man. Motivates me to do something with my VR
Great content as always George and Stav! As others have said, no lube on the backs of the bearings. Other than that, I love your videos and IG posts. Always brightens my day!
Just a heads up if no one else has said! you have to get the mains align honed when using arp main bolts as the added torque makes them go out of round!
60 ft.lbs was the finial step. I dont believe thats added Torque
@@jrrockett after a small search, vr6 12v main bearings are torqued to 22-30ft.lbs then a 90 degree turn. I would say doing a stepped torque is different and probably going to end up higher than stock torque settings. they arnt checking the clearance so it doesnt really matter.
@@bazzaf246 30 plus 90 dagree turn meh that's probably more then 60ft.lbs due to them possibly being torque to yield. The arp bolts aren't designed to stretch. When I installed the their Head bolts it's 3 steps to 80ft.lbs. Set it and forget it. Haven't had any issues after 4 years now and about 72k miles
Killing his buzz with those shades comments hahaha
Oh the anticipation is killing me
Keep up the vids guys!🤘
NEVER LUBE THE BACK SIDE OF THE BEARINGS AGAIN!!! FETA FAM ADVICE
Hatah’ Blockas’, right? Haha, came across this, wicked helpful fellas. I can’t find enough vr engine build vids.
Lube lube and lube. Lol
Glad to see the 12v getting built.
why do you lube the main caps before the main bearings go in? is that not a cause of spinning bearings? Or does that not apply here because you have the indent in the mains that hold them in place?
Very good review
My dream motor.... :D nice job.
Hello. Why is this your dream motor?
I have a 96 cabrio, I researched how to gain hp but there is nothing potential which was dissapointing to me.
As a part greek I can't look at that shirt with a straight face. Bloody malaka hahahhahaha. Absolute belter
I’m thinking of doing the same for my 12v AFP VR6 !
You should use atf to wipe everything down. At least the bores
Jon Fanning Yep ATF is good for cleaning and removing water etc
Did I just see you lube up the main journals before the bearings were put in?
No lube on backside of bearings...just in case you didn't know. ;) LOL, but seriously! And I hope you guys are checking bearing clearances...don't forget to check thrust clearance too. Dial indicator, mics and bore gauges are must haves IMO...some get by with Plastigauge.
I'm interested in getting an Audi TT VR6 or a VW R32 and having the engine fully built with a turbo putting down around 550 whp. Basically a budget super car.
What did you get in the end. I bought a mk5 r32 last week :) love it
@@512460 nothing for now. Got some time before I buy anything. At least a year, life is in the way.
@@mr.adventure559 we all know that one too well
Bro I subbed just for that hulk hogan reference 🤣
awesome guys, build a drop in aftermarket tank assembly
Just came down to the comments and thankfully the early birds spotted it too.
Oiling the back of the bearing shells is a no no.
If you want to have good lubrication on first start up leave the spark plugs out and turn the motor over until the oil light goes out and stays out.
seen you guys at 034s last ECP Euro event. I love how your using these 2.8s transverse. I would love one of your gold blocked motors
I also learned to never touch the bearings or journals on crank shaft with your bare fingers always use gloves guys 👍🏻
You guys are hilarious. Keep up the fun content. Motor is looking great. #12vgang
Nice shades tool
Love the vw tatt go the vag cars the leaders and the best in the world !!!
I was trying to reach first.....nice built
The guy with the j’s always talking shit with his buddy 😂😂😂 that’s dope
What wiring harness do you guys use and ecu?
Great video, very informative, 🤝
I love this channel where have you guys been?
Thank you, we’re continuing to post new videos, check out our video playlists 🤟
Just found this amazing channel, Half the people here don’t know what malaka means lmao
what's the name of the color from the engine block ?! super interesting approach ... awesome color :D:D
Great work, thank you, will be doing 83mm pistons. Have you put together one 2.8 12v with 83mm or know of someone who did? Was that a happy ending? Thanks,
que hermoso se ve ese motor, muchas felicitaciones. perdon por no escribir en ingles
Hey can I have a full part list you used ?
What’s with the 12v & 24v back and forth? New to the VR6 stuff so be nice please.
Jordan McHattie just a little sibling rivalry.
Malaka MotorSports thanks for replying guys, been binge watching videos since finding your channel!
Is there any performance differences between the two or is it just personal preference which one you run?
@@jordanmchattie9773 stock for stock 24v makes more than 12v, most say 12v sounds better, harder to get turbo parts for 24v than the 12v, not really much other than accessibility, parts more expensive for the 24v... 12v uses coil pack as opposed to the individual coils on the 24v. Nothin much truthfully. 24v come with 6speed, my swapped 24v uses a 12v 5speed, the heads are different as well, I can't find any 24v aftermarket headers but plenty for 12v.
12 valve all the way
Why you put the green wrap and let it over night? Trying to learn this high power tuning stuff...
Unlikely your new connecting rods weigh the same as your old ones, your rottating assembly balance will be off, possibly by a lot. Did you even balance your rotating assembly on the first build? Great your sharing stuff, and your learning, but an engine assembly manual will prevent a lot of mistakes, like the ones already mentioned in the comments.
Did the pistons/new rods and crank get balanced as a new set?
why lupe under the main bearings? you want them to spin?
Stav is funny AF!
Did you line hone the galley with the arp main studs though?
hi your engine looks real fire , my question is ,what much different vr6 12v or vr6 24v????????????
One has 12 valves and the other has 24 valves
You lubed the back of the bearings? Bad move. That will decrease clearance, plus allowing the bearing to spin easier.
Confused as to why you layed down assembly lube on the main journals prior to installing the main bearings...
Should make a parts list
Where did you buy those bolts
Goals!
Nice unique name👍..Malacca or Melaka is a small state in Peninsula Malaysia.
What size crank bearings did you go with?
Hello friends. What is the head studs brand? Thanks.
How price if the parts the piston???
All the project ???
I'm usually wrong, but this time I'm right... Great video guys. Great proyect, coud you give us some cost numbers of boosting a stock block vs a build one. Cheers!
Was this done on a Stock head?
Dude do not change a thing your done it up perfectly
I’d definitely upgrade that torque wrench for this job and you should also google using peanut butter for all those studs. Make sure the surface RA of that block is like a mirror for the metal headgasket, it will be better insurance than that shitty copper spray ;)
which crankshaft do you run?
Are rhe pistons forged? What engine code is it? Do you think the parts will fit in VW Passat b3 2.8 vr6?
Are they making those studs for the 2.7T yet?
Can the VR6 engine and trans fit in a 01 bettle?
Whats the displacement?
Where did you get the head studs from?