A little tip I use is to buy a clear plastic tubing that will slip over the pipe sticking out and as soon as it is open slip it over the end and down to your oil catch, much cleaner. Practice once before your remove the end.
Just changing the oil isn't enough. You have to open the oil fill cap and the oil drain and the oil dip stick, and then flush it to get all the metal filings out, that are heavier and settle to the bottom. t's not about the oil getting dirty, it's about getting the tiny filings that are making the oil dirty out. Otherwise you are just putting clean oil into a machine that has metal filings left over and the motor is still contaminated with metal filings.
When I got my snow blower as a gift for christmas, the oil gauge assembly was broken and cracked in two pieces. The company has not been helpful at all in helping me. They are telling me that I have to buy the part off eBay which I've gone to a eBay and there are no parts to replace it. I've gone to the Power Smart Tool place and there's no part to replace it. My two options are to return it or to somehow try and glue the two pieces together. I got this last December and my issue has still not been resolved with the company I would appreciate any advice you could give. Thank you very much
Sadly it’s been a real struggle to try and get parts from them I think I will be deleting my review videos promoting their products. The axle broke on mine after a year and they refused to replace it even after it says online you have a two year warranty. Only way to really get a hold of them is through email off their website and hope they respond
I bought a PowerSmart brand 2-stage 24-inch snowblower a few years ago after my TroyBilt went to snowblower heaven after many faithful and trouble-free years of service. Right away I could see why PowerSmart brand snowblowers cost less than other brands. The switches were cheap and flimsy, the cables dangled loosely and in the way of the pull cord and as you can see in this video the oil fill and drain plug positions were poorly placed making what should be an easy task difficult. My last and most important complaint potential buyers of this product may want to consider is the placement of the handlebars. Instead of being angled like other brands they are positioned in an upright position. This puts strain on your back when using it and my back was constantly sore after using the snowblower. This is why I sold it after just one season of use.
You get what you pay for. But from what you mentioned in the comment and what I saw in the video, I can see why. The oil change location is a bit complicated, but the handle direction, really? If you can bend it a bit, then it would be good
@@tfoen7678 the oil change location is not ideal, but honestly, you should be removing the wheels once a season anyway to check for rust and lube up, so not a big deal. It is a good reminder to do so. But yeah, it is like 2x to 4x cheaper than other snow blowers, so.... those sacrifices are worth it for me, as long as it lasts.
What is the solution to the problem of the machine being unable to lift snow from the ground and take it out from the upper outlet, it only moves it forward?
do the augers and impeller spin at their correct speeds? If not, you may need to tighten either the cable that engages the auger or move the roller closer to the belt to increase tension on the belt. If the auger doesnt spin but the imepeller does, could be the shear pins are broken or missing.
A little tip I use is to buy a clear plastic tubing that will slip over the pipe sticking out and as soon as it is open slip it over the end and down to your oil catch, much cleaner. Practice once before your remove the end.
Thanks !
honestly, you should be removing the wheels once a season to check for rust and lube up anyway. So, it is a good reminder to do so.
@@arkie87 I agree on checking and greasing wheels but even then he was having a hard time. so the hose still makes sense.
Ty great vid
Just changing the oil isn't enough. You have to open the oil fill cap and the oil drain and the oil dip stick, and then flush it to get all the metal filings out, that are heavier and settle to the bottom. t's not about the oil getting dirty, it's about getting the tiny filings that are making the oil dirty out. Otherwise you are just putting clean oil into a machine that has metal filings left over and the motor is still contaminated with metal filings.
How do you flush it out?
When I got my snow blower as a gift for christmas, the oil gauge assembly was broken and cracked in two pieces. The company has not been helpful at all in helping me. They are telling me that I have to buy the part off eBay which I've gone to a eBay and there are no parts to replace it. I've gone to the Power Smart Tool place and there's no part to replace it. My two options are to return it or to somehow try and glue the two pieces together. I got this last December and my issue has still not been resolved with the company I would appreciate any advice you could give. Thank you very much
Sadly it’s been a real struggle to try and get parts from them I think I will be deleting my review videos promoting their products. The axle broke on mine after a year and they refused to replace it even after it says online you have a two year warranty. Only way to really get a hold of them is through email off their website and hope they respond
How much oil should u put in? I put in 16fl oz in
I have a snowdevil 196cc S200 6.5 hp..how do you change and add oil..theres only a side dip stick..and no oil cap that should say add oil?
I bought a PowerSmart brand 2-stage 24-inch snowblower a few years ago after my TroyBilt went to snowblower heaven after many faithful and trouble-free years of service.
Right away I could see why PowerSmart brand snowblowers cost less than other brands.
The switches were cheap and flimsy, the cables dangled loosely and in the way of the pull cord and as you can see in this video the oil fill and drain plug positions were poorly placed making what should be an easy task difficult.
My last and most important complaint potential buyers of this product may want to consider is the placement of the handlebars.
Instead of being angled like other brands they are positioned in an upright position.
This puts strain on your back when using it and my back was constantly sore after using the snowblower.
This is why I sold it after just one season of use.
You get what you pay for.
But from what you mentioned in the comment and what I saw in the video, I can see why.
The oil change location is a bit complicated, but the handle direction, really?
If you can bend it a bit, then it would be good
do yourself a favor and pay for someone to snowblow for you, since you seem completely incapable of handling it yourself
@@tfoen7678 the oil change location is not ideal, but honestly, you should be removing the wheels once a season anyway to check for rust and lube up, so not a big deal. It is a good reminder to do so.
But yeah, it is like 2x to 4x cheaper than other snow blowers, so.... those sacrifices are worth it for me, as long as it lasts.
Manual says to NOT screw in Oil Cap to check level ?
It's very typical of that type of oil cap. Honda lawn mower engines are also that way we don't thread it in to check the level.
What is the solution to the problem of the machine being unable to lift snow from the ground and take it out from the upper outlet, it only moves it forward?
Probably need new shear pins in the augers
do the augers and impeller spin at their correct speeds? If not, you may need to tighten either the cable that engages the auger or move the roller closer to the belt to increase tension on the belt.
If the auger doesnt spin but the imepeller does, could be the shear pins are broken or missing.
@@KyleHallwoodworker thank you
@@arkie87 thank you