@@teemuahonen6453 kai, so sorry for saying this mate but there is nothing stronger than Kai's balls, I mean I've heard of steel balls but this guy charges and has no fear! The mount isn't as strong as this man! Thank God Kai! Keep saying that because our Creator is in control of your worst situations brother.. peace and God bless.. your footage over the past 48hrs is making me want to come out of retirement haha not that I am any kind of professional! Try say
Unbelievable what level of videography has been reached with just one camera, no dedicated cameraman, no helicopter, just one camera and its way more real than any of the highly produced videos
@@jochaldo8076 it actually does have everything to do with his comment. The helicopter, when it shows up, has a front mounted camera on a gimbal. From the looks of it probably a Shotover brand setup, but their is a number of competitors our there. I'd wager that cameras/gimbal setup (not including the helicopter) is worth in the range of $250k and is there for exclusive purpose of filming professional surfers. That said, the original comment kinda misses the point in making the comparison between a GoPro & a rig like that. Those two separate kinds of shots are tools with different functional goals intended for different purposes. Of course a helicopter shot from a distance isn't supposed to make things feel personal. It's aimed to give a sense of scale & perspective. That's a whole separate tangent though. In any case, the helicopter comment is relevant. The helicopter is there to film.
That barrel footage was Amazing, and the slow motion made it almost dreamy. Thanks for giving us “mere mortals” a glimpse into this extreme reality! Oh, and Mr. Lenny, your skills are at the pinnacle of existence!! RESPECT!!!
Hey, I'm just an ukrainian guy and I understand that our demands are too high for other countries which already have their own problems to deal with. So feel free to stop giving us so many precious resources as they are being wasted by us without achieving much. Thank you and Slave Ukraine! 🇺🇦
Wow - I have never surfed, never known anyone who surfed and know nothing about surfing - but that footage is astonishing..... I cant began to imagine the skill, bravery and fitness required but I can imagine how that would be incredibly nourishing for your mind and soul - incredible.
I'm 62 first surfed at 7 in 1965; started regularly at 11; moved to Maui in 1975 at 17 surfed my brains out for the next four years moved back to Cali and then at 32, moved back east and effectively quit surfing. So, all I gotta say is that for me to be able to watch these clips of Lenny and all the other current great surfers is the next best thing to being there surfing! It's still in my Blood!
Been in the water since 7, stopped a few years ago, so around thirty years experience.. watching these Hawaiian Living Legends makes me want to come out of retirement bro
@michalthomas you saw Maui when it was raw bro. I moved to Maui in 88, still here. It has evolved so much it's unreal. Way too many surfers now...lol. I learned real quick i have limits in the water here that first winter. Haha....
1:26 I love how in order to stay balanced he has to maintain his focus so even tho his friend just had a massive wipeout right next to him he still has to keep going. It’s like “Oh shoot- welp there goes Billy.” and just keeps going lol
Basic rule of surfing, person closest to the breaking part of the wave has right of way. Only one person can surf a wave at a time, especially big waves like these.
That was not a wipeout, the other guy was taking himself out of the way because he was in an "illegal" takeover. As @fleuger99 here says, basic surf rule
Billy almost took his fucking head off. Getting cranked in the head by someone else’s board is serious on a small day, here it could very easily kill you.
Unreal footage. This explains the love for surfing. So much time and dedication to get to that level of understanding for the ocean. Riding inside a wave must be truly the best feeling ever so incredible
@Nicole Wow. Sounds like you’ve watched lots of videos on lots of animals! But it also sounds you don’t really know the subjects you’re talking about. Many things you stated are generalizations, exaggerations or downright wrong,, but you sound nice. Have a great day! ☀️
@Nicole so off the back of ur comment will you come cage diving with shark with me in South Africa as none of my family are brave enough I can’t think of a more breathtaking experience ❤❤🦈🦈🦈
It's honestly the hardest sport I've tried. It takes so long to learn how to position yourself out there I can only imagine how hard 10 to 15 ft swells are. I grew up a skater so riding was never my issue but I got flattened many times getting up early just like the guy that fell behind him.
I started surfing in high school in 1964 and surfed actively until I was 52 and living in Peru. My back got too bad and I had to quit. I still love it...
Absolutely breath taking. This must be what a true sense of freedom looks like. I can't imagine the exhilaration of riding such powerful waves. Thanks for sharing.
This is the most cinematically beautiful surfing video I’ve ever watched on TH-cam. The wave chasing you and crashing a mere foot away from you is fucking awesome.
it was the other dude that dropped in.. peahi breaks right>>> (mostly ) .. the wave he took was a right. ...the guy is behind him on the left in the vid.. that means kai was deeper and had the right of way
Thanks posting. This vid shows everything that makes surfing so difficult and scary. Big respect to the guys and girls that’re out there every day who don’t get the fame and notoriety , but are still fighting to catch waves and getting beat up, caught in bad spots, etc…
When I was 14 the exact same thing happened except I used that method when you push your board over the wave so that you can just legit float over the wave as it passes.... But I had a long board and was out at backline... This technique always worked but one day I tried to push my board over to early and instead of going over the wave it went in the wave and the wave just carried me and my board away like I was nothing, I was fighting for air and to come up but I was being dragged by my leg that was attached to my leash, after a while I came up and before I could take a breath another huge wave hit me and took me and my board, I started swallowing water and everything was going red and black and these white dots.... I somehow faught my way to the top and got a few breaths of air before being taken under again by another huge wave... For the moment time felt infinite and I somehow accepted I'm going to drown and I won't get to see my dad or brothers again and it felt so peaceful... Call me insane but it felt good (I read this may be caused by a substance your body releases called DMT when it thinks it's dying, and DMT makes you feel good and helps you forget you are dying) .... Luckily I was close to a sand bank so I washed up on it and another surfer going out saw me, he rushed to me and put me on my board and layed on top of me and rode the waves back to shore on my board whilst managing his board... I got to shore and he asked me if I was okay... Me being to weak to speak gave him a thumbs up and that was that, I never got his name but all I can remember was that he was the strongly built black man, I layed on my stomach in a funny position and coughed the water out and just lay there on the shore for a while before getting the strength to get up and walk.... Thank you kind stranger and I'll never forget you for saving my life.
Not a good experience but it left you with a great story and a clear understanding of the power of the sea. When I was the fittest I have ever been I got caught in a rip on manly beach Sydney with around 30 swimmers. The 5 life savers were so busy they came past me 4 times and told me keep doing what your doing and I actually swam myself back to shore. I lay on beach and just thought about how weak a human really is and how I would ,100% have given up without their encouraging me.
DMT is secreted by the Pineal Gland, and people often use it to feel high. Apparently it is one of the most spiritually influential experiences of one's life.
Thank you for sharing! I have no surfing experience sadly, but as a Californian, and ocean lover, I have an appreciation for surfing. Thanks for taking us on the ride!
I don’t speak “surfer “, but that was simply amazing when you surfed through the “tube” (???) what an experience and I can appreciate why you and your ilk surf despite the dangers that lurk beneath the waves. You’re in the aquatic life’s elements and understand the risks involved. Whether or not you encounter sharks, you understand/accept the risks and any associated consequences. Stay safe out there and catch a swell for those of us who’re admiring your skills from the shores for whatever reason.
Man, living in a city, you look at this and think "wow, this looks hella fun, i wanna try". So I got to Newquay, Cornwall (apparent home of surfing) with my bodyboard, and get ptsd from getting drowned in a wave 1.5x taller then me....I know the feeling...
bruh being stuck in a spot where waves break on top of you before you can get away is fucking terrifying you just gotta keep going under them until the set is over
My very first time surfing I got worked hard. Slammed 3 or 4 times in a row. Waves were only like 8 to 10 feet (yeah, I was in the Wrong place for a newbie when things shifted) and I was terrified!
I got stuck in that with heavy surfer traffic it was terrible I couldn't get out of their way or away from the waves finally another surfer pulled me out
You are allowing us all to really capture the beauty and awe of this powerful creation at all angles. Thank you for being brave enough to develop the skill and respect to do it. 🤗
Shows you how incredibly violent it is to swim in the ocean. I get my ass handed to me every single time, but I just can’t stay away. The sea is a formidable creature. I both love her, and fear her deeply.
Yea know how the wave, did he jump off it so it wouldn't be as much impact, cause he turn, seen and jumped off. Just asking cause what if I stayed on 🙃 Shucks that seem horrible to come across
More like a surfers dream! This guys is a great surfer. If I was out that day I would have been happy to catch one of those waves for 3 seconds. You gotta love being in the water and you must be calm every time you go under, especially if the water is cold. If you want to feel how small you are, try your strength and endurance against the oceans consistent and inevitable waves This is awesome
i was in Srilanka , having a long vacation by ocean i hear the waves even the sound of it caused many nightmares of tsunami. in my sleep..then people told me to surf that is like eating doner kebab in turkey as a tourist ..i was like are ypu insane ? i cant even swim in this sea ..once i did and wave broke at my neck and it was horrible..anyway.. then life brought people to me giving me tips how to swim then how to surf with baby waves and wipe out many times so on..after 3 months , on my last day in srilanka i surfed 2 meters high wave in hriketia .. it was unforgettable.. just one wave caused that emotion .. i am not sure if i wanna do it again but it was for me an example of a nightmare can turn into a joy ..you can master your fears ..and now i watch surfers , amazing !
Amazing footage!!! I never had the skill or courage to do anything resembling what Kai is doing here. Imua Braddah Kai! Mahalo for sharing what most of us can't even imagine.
That was absolutely incredible! Those of us out here who are unable to do such an incredible extreme sport are so grateful this is available! Especially if you have a disability and are unable to even try to achieve something like this I'm just stunned! I can't thank you enough for doing this I'm just so inspired and grateful you just have no idea!!🏄 I have a disability and I have wanted to surf my entire life and this was as close as I could get thank you thank you!!
Hey man! Highly recommend checking out “AccesSurf”, they are a non profit Adaptive Surfing program that specializes in taking people with disabilities out surfing. I’ve volunteered with them a few times, they are awesome. There are other programs around the US as well but I know these guys the best. So, you can do it! :) let me know if you find them
@@dvb8637 just leave.. you are a coward and nothing more. Some people are simply more adventurous. And keep in mind that adventurous people advanced the human species by seeking out new land, establishing maritime routes that would lead to trade between different parts of the world etc. And their descendants inherited that lack of fear for dangerous activities. End of day, people can do what they want with their own lives as long as they're not harming anyone. And most surfers don't end up shark food either so that's that. I think inexperienced tourists usually end up getting attacked by sharks. Lastly, you replying to this person to say this is disrespectful. They are admiring something they want to do but can't, and expressing their gratitude for the video. Your opinion is unwanted and your reply uncalled for. Let them enjoy their dream in the only way they can, don't be so insensitive.
@@fabiana7157 people can do what they want like comment on videos and say what they want, opinions are not shared because they are wanted they are shared because of the freedom to do so, original comment has no more value then the second, u just dont agree, u dont need to be mad about it, its okay to disagree, u don't need to call names come blazing, if u wanna show maturity dont be so aggressive, their comment was safer than yours was, which makes you saying what u did while doing the opposite, ironic lol notice their wording, i and i, you said statements as absolute facts, isnt that a bit hypocritical if ur calling someone out for being rude in ur opinion but ur too immature to say its just ur opinion, like they clearly formulated it to be, regardless of the content, in terms of sharing and expressing an opinion in a mature way, they went about it better than u did
@@fabiana7157 @Dvb very well put fab, way to show his ignorance and stupidity while simultaneously showing your own class and understanding of why people like us love to do what we do, some people are just frustrated with their inability to go outside their comfort zones
I’ve lined in Hawaii for 8 years now and have never been able to figure out how to do this. I think I have successfully caught maybe 3 waves, one on my stomach. People don’t realize how skilled these guys and gals really are.
@@sammywammy64 oh but the feeling of pulling in all the work is done and all you need to do is pull in and stay at there and enjoy the ride, incredible place to be
Amazing video, so fearless. I’ve been held down by waves well smaller than that, and I’ll never go in the ocean again. I was only 11 years old, didn’t have a life vest, no supervision, and there was a hurricane 1.5 days off the coast, so a bit different. Sucked out by a massive rip tide into 10-foot breakers. I had no idea it was unsafe, just a kid boogie boarding in North Carolina on vacation. Waves are usually so small, I got up at the buttcrack of dawn before all the adults and ran out to the beach by myself, was like “Finally some big waves to ride!” I was immediately ripped out to sea and pummeled without end, no idea which way was up. I was held down for so long I gave up and breathed in. At that moment I washed up on the beach. So yeah I don’t go in the ocean any more. This video is terrifying to me but it does me good to see someone paddle out into the mighty ocean without fear and ride on its back for a while.
I had similar experiences. I was in 7-10’ faces at 4 mile in Santa Cruz Ca. and the waves were closing out the cove on me while I was learning. My “friends” who talked me into going with them laughed on the beach while I struggled to stay alive. I only lived through it because I was smart enough not to panic and stopped fighting the waves and conserved my strength and focused on my breathing. I knew the waves couldn’t hurt me but that I surely would drown if I passed out. By the time I got to the beach I was too weak to crawl out of the water. People on the beach ran out to pull me out of the water. I was 21 and in phenomenal shape, but had no clue what I was doing and my “friends” thought it was more fun to watch me drown than to teach me to surf.
really cool video! dissapointed there was no shark though. I kept waiting for a big grey monster to pop out and bit your board away hahaha. -Phil Accio
Awesome curl action at 3:00. Onlookers: It is CRITICAL to maintain situational awareness of the depth of the water and the underwater terrain, because the higher up you are on a wave, the deeper it can drive you under if (for example) you fall off the curl - and if the depth is too shallow for the height you're falling from, you will get spiked into the bottom, and then dragged along it (like being in a washing machine on steroids). If that ever happens to you, pray it is soft sand and not hard rocks and/or sharp coral, or you will be in a world of hurt.
That was truly one of the most amazing things I’ve ever seen before! It looks like you’re underwater, but you can still breathe! Looks like you’re in a different world!
Who else thought there was going to be a shark because of the word ‘Jaws’ Edit: Thanks for all the likes! Edit: I’m still thanking everyone for all the likes regardless the negative replies...
Everytime I stumble across a surfing video, I find myself just watching in awe. I inevitably get to the point where I'm thinking "white people- God bless'em, the way they get bored just livin. What will they think of next? One thing you can be sure of- it'll kill ya." 🤣 Get down, white people, do y'all thang- surf it, skate it, spelunk it, climb it, shoot it, ski it, jump out of it, bungee off of it, put on one of those gliding suits and fly around it- yes, white folks do that shit! I am here for it! 👍 I'll just be right back here in the cut, safe and sound, warm and dry, not being able to relate, despite bein half white myself 🤣. I will never get tired of watching this shit, and I will never stop thinking that y'all have got to be the craziest people on this planet 🙆 🙌🙌🙌
That is off-the-hook WILD. I burned most of my youth climbing rock…..but the adrenaline addiction component of hard-surfing is all over that video. Thanks for posting !
Always wanted to surf waves this big but but the skill and talent needed to even attempt this is next level thank you for sharing and ride on many more waves
That top layer of water when it's all foamy and frothy everywhere is the worst, it's mostly air so it's hard to get above it and as it's always as head height, it's constantly in your face, eyes, nose and mouth..
So that what it's like to get barreled... Outstanding video, love the slow-mo, and the lack of music gives it a real-life feel to the viewer. Awesome skills.
This is one of the coolest filmed videos I've seen on TH-cam. It is amazing how effective no music is with a good, stable camera. Great angles and slowed down shots. I would be terrified out there!
Those tube rides were just amazing. Superlative editing And those slo-mo interludes were icing on the cake. This guy is a freaking beast on the waves, and he reads them like a scholar.
Totally awesome vid! I was in Maui back in 1992 when they were not yet surfing Jaws, mostly getting blown out at Hookipa, lol. TBH, I like this surf much better than Nazaré. Jaws - at least on these days you filmed - sure is big too but not prohibitively so. It's fantastic you guys can still paddle in and don't need a lot of equipment, can surf in short slacks and balmy waters under the beautiful Maui sun, every once in a while catching a ridiculous barrel... has so much more soul than Nazaré. Very beautiful and classy! Much love!!
Mental footage!! That wave at 4:25 is sick. Caught myself moving with you and holding my breath the whole time. That's the closest I'll ever get to jaws. Keep sending it Kai. Yeeewww 🤙
So impressed by your ability to sit so deep in the take off zone and pull straight into the barrel on these pitching mountains of water. One of the best, if not the Best big wave surfer when it comes to this consistency at this particular skill. Thanks for sharing!
Wow, just incredible. What balls of steel. Every time you surf these waves, you risk death, and it is a very sudden thing. These men and women represent the fittest humans, with extreme balance and guts. Such fine people. I'm really in awe. It is like watching a panther leap and take down something big, a primal feeling that most of us have atrophied. Superb images too!
Absolutely love it, I'm not a surfer but love this, the first I've watched that captures the speed properly, really impressive stuff. Well done, and cheers
Impressive and a reality check; even the very accomplished surfers get hammered frequently. Part of the game apparently. Lot of work/time/energy to get a few really good rides.
10/10 - I can't even pick my favorite part. Amazing. From getting caught in the zone, to the dude dropping in and eating it to the sweet barrels. Subscribed. Thanks!
I don’t understand the context of the surf spot but I really appreciate the amount of safety and caution surrounding it. Group activity, the surfer in the video appears to have some sort of floating top if it not mistaken, multiple wave riders monitoring and helping, helicopters for the above monitoring. This sport can be extremely dangerous, especially in these conditions and I love to see people looking out for others
4:15 I don't know why this is so cool to me but you literally see where the top of the water column is from below inside the barrel. The water is pulling on itself from the top as some of the water get sucked into the lip and the rest lags behind.
The fact that me and my family had just visited the jaws surfing area in Maui just a couple of weeks ago makes this video so much more impressive and fascinating to me.
Man camera tech has come such a long way and to see you in those tubes in such hi rez detail is absolutely amazing. Stay safe out there u radical dudes :P
Such a unique sport. I bet there’s nothing like the feeling of riding waves like this. I love and have been skateboarding for years but have never imagined myself trying surfing. Looks amazing though.
What an amazing video!!! How does it feel to be able to ride a wave....a wave ...air in between a spiral spinning salted water. Air, spinning, salted, water, spiral....those words don't go together, but here they are. ....magic!
I’ve been surfing several times (learning of course) off the coast of Oregon where the wave breaks at about 4-5 feet, and even getting caught in those after taking a fall was terrifying. Both a buddy and I were absolutely struggling to get to the surface for a full breathe before the next wave sent you tumbling underneath the water again. Keep in mind all this going on with the board attached to you that gets pulled in every direction which you’re DESPERATELY trying to get back to as it is your life support in those situations. I couldn’t imagine trying to swim in these waters holy hell.
@@johanneswestman935 main danger is the energy from when it crashes down, the energy of wave itself doesn't hold you down. Just need to be under surface enough for wave crashing action to pass over you
@@heightsofsagarmatha That might be the main danger but if you've ever surfed you'll know that getting caught by the wave under water is dangerous too. You will feel like you're in a tumbler - your body is tossed and turned around with incredible energy. Sometimes you get so confused from it that you can't tell which way is up and which way is down. It's a very scary feeling.
@@heightsofsagarmathayes you can. Tried that in Laguna beach. Times it wrong a few times and was slammed 😅But also managed to time the diving. There were only a few that big so the rest I could just jump over
The mount holding the camera onto his board is stronger than anything I’ve ever seen before
So true
Kai Lenny is more stronger IMO? 🧐
@@teemuahonen6453 kai, so sorry for saying this mate but there is nothing stronger than Kai's balls, I mean I've heard of steel balls but this guy charges and has no fear! The mount isn't as strong as this man!
Thank God Kai!
Keep saying that because our Creator is in control of your worst situations brother.. peace and God bless.. your footage over the past 48hrs is making me want to come out of retirement haha not that I am any kind of professional!
Try say
Great point. 🤙🤙🤙
😂
Unbelievable what level of videography has been reached with just one camera, no dedicated cameraman, no helicopter, just one camera and its way more real than any of the highly produced videos
@Mike H he said videography
@Mike H bruh what? That has nothing to do with the comment
What can is he using?
2:40 look up carrefuly
@@jochaldo8076 it actually does have everything to do with his comment. The helicopter, when it shows up, has a front mounted camera on a gimbal. From the looks of it probably a Shotover brand setup, but their is a number of competitors our there. I'd wager that cameras/gimbal setup (not including the helicopter) is worth in the range of $250k and is there for exclusive purpose of filming professional surfers.
That said, the original comment kinda misses the point in making the comparison between a GoPro & a rig like that. Those two separate kinds of shots are tools with different functional goals intended for different purposes. Of course a helicopter shot from a distance isn't supposed to make things feel personal. It's aimed to give a sense of scale & perspective. That's a whole separate tangent though. In any case, the helicopter comment is relevant. The helicopter is there to film.
That barrel footage was Amazing, and the slow motion made it almost dreamy. Thanks for giving us “mere mortals” a glimpse into this extreme reality! Oh, and Mr. Lenny, your skills are at the pinnacle of existence!! RESPECT!!!
This looks absolutely mental. The fitness and skill needed to survive and surf this wave is clearly evident in the video, thanks for sharing.
Hey, I'm just an ukrainian guy and I understand that our demands are too high for other countries which already have their own problems to deal with.
So feel free to stop giving us so many precious resources as they are being wasted by us without achieving much. Thank you and Slave Ukraine! 🇺🇦
Let it be said!!!
life jacket, ever heard of ?
you gotta be in some shape
Surfers don’t strike me as particularly ‘in shape’ as far as athletes go. They’re light and scrawny, that’s about it
Why am I out of breath after watching this video?
Hi coc person
Funny to find you here
Me too
ahaha yeah me tooo!!! :P
Yeah-
Wow - I have never surfed, never known anyone who surfed and know nothing about surfing - but that footage is astonishing..... I cant began to imagine the skill, bravery and fitness required but I can imagine how that would be incredibly nourishing for your mind and soul - incredible.
Forget the bravery part if you can swim ur prolly good
@@ibrahimismail5625lmao
No music makes this video so much more intense
Yes!!!!
The shot on IPhone meme music would probably make this worse ngl.
I hate music added to these videos
This isnt really a normal surf video...
Hundred percent
I'm 62 first surfed at 7 in 1965; started regularly at 11; moved to Maui in 1975 at 17 surfed my brains out for the next four years moved back to Cali and then at 32, moved back east and effectively quit surfing. So, all I gotta say is that for me to be able to watch these clips of Lenny and all the other current great surfers is the next best thing to being there surfing! It's still in my Blood!
Been in the water since 7, stopped a few years ago, so around thirty years experience.. watching these Hawaiian Living Legends makes me want to come out of retirement bro
I surf with many over 60 guys, some on short boards still. Get back out there 🤙
I didn't start surfing till I was 54 after I got both hips replaced. It was great therapy for my hips. My only regret is I didn't start 45 years ago!!
@michalthomas you saw Maui when it was raw bro. I moved to Maui in 88, still here. It has evolved so much it's unreal. Way too many surfers now...lol. I learned real quick i have limits in the water here that first winter. Haha....
@@jwqc1 That's my plan. In Puerto Rico where I was born! Time is running out for the short board.
1:26 I love how in order to stay balanced he has to maintain his focus so even tho his friend just had a massive wipeout right next to him he still has to keep going. It’s like “Oh shoot- welp there goes Billy.” and just keeps going lol
They might’ve collided if he’d lost focus, and that could’ve been bad. Especially with how much pull those waves probably had.
Basic rule of surfing, person closest to the breaking part of the wave has right of way. Only one person can surf a wave at a time, especially big waves like these.
That was not a wipeout, the other guy was taking himself out of the way because he was in an "illegal" takeover. As @fleuger99 here says, basic surf rule
I think his friend intentionally jumped off so they don't collide.
Billy almost took his fucking head off. Getting cranked in the head by someone else’s board is serious on a small day, here it could very easily kill you.
Unreal footage. This explains the love for surfing. So much time and dedication to get to that level of understanding for the ocean. Riding inside a wave must be truly the best feeling ever so incredible
Getting in the "green room" is an experience that can only be had. Its impossible to explain.... but it is a magical and wonderous thing.
@Nicole Wow. Sounds like you’ve watched lots of videos on lots of animals! But it also sounds you don’t really know the subjects you’re talking about. Many things you stated are generalizations, exaggerations or downright wrong,, but you sound nice. Have a great day! ☀️
@Nicole so off the back of ur comment will you come cage diving with shark with me in South Africa as none of my family are brave enough I can’t think of a more breathtaking experience ❤❤🦈🦈🦈
Nope, you just described passion.
@@janicesmith2475 sharks rarely attack humans. humans kill far more sharks (or anything for that matter) on an annual basis.
I surfed when I was young and healthy, back in the 80's.
Needless to say, this video brought great memories to my heart.
Thank you.
It's honestly the hardest sport I've tried. It takes so long to learn how to position yourself out there I can only imagine how hard 10 to 15 ft swells are. I grew up a skater so riding was never my issue but I got flattened many times getting up early just like the guy that fell behind him.
@@CharacterZero89 yep, some wipeouts can be brutal
Nice username btw ;)
@@samo917 thanks man! 😃🤙🏼
I started surfing in high school in 1964 and surfed actively until I was 52 and living in Peru. My back got too bad and I had to quit. I still love it...
Absolutely breath taking. This must be what a true sense of freedom looks like. I can't imagine the exhilaration of riding such powerful waves. Thanks for sharing.
This is the most cinematically beautiful surfing video I’ve ever watched on TH-cam. The wave chasing you and crashing a mere foot away from you is fucking awesome.
Its like watching complete chaos unfold behind a blissful calm creating a beautiful contradiction of peace and explosion to from theae beautiful clips
Language please :)
@@Sheen023 shut up
911 likes 😫
No lie
The guy crashing next to you was priceless. If I were him I would screen shot that and label it the time I dropped in on the man!!
@Joshua Jason Karl yes we get it stop being boring now
Yeah that's an Asphalt 9 moment for sure :)
@Joshua Jason Karl pretty sure Kai Lenny knows what he’s doing man
it was the other dude that dropped in.. peahi breaks right>>> (mostly ) .. the wave he took was a right. ...the guy is behind him on the left in the vid.. that means kai was deeper and had the right of way
Absolutely hilarious..........burst out laughing!!. Definite screenshot at 1m28s.
Thanks posting. This vid shows everything that makes surfing so difficult and scary. Big respect to the guys and girls that’re out there every day who don’t get the fame and notoriety , but are still fighting to catch waves and getting beat up, caught in bad spots, etc…
When I was 14 the exact same thing happened except I used that method when you push your board over the wave so that you can just legit float over the wave as it passes.... But I had a long board and was out at backline... This technique always worked but one day I tried to push my board over to early and instead of going over the wave it went in the wave and the wave just carried me and my board away like I was nothing, I was fighting for air and to come up but I was being dragged by my leg that was attached to my leash, after a while I came up and before I could take a breath another huge wave hit me and took me and my board, I started swallowing water and everything was going red and black and these white dots.... I somehow faught my way to the top and got a few breaths of air before being taken under again by another huge wave... For the moment time felt infinite and I somehow accepted I'm going to drown and I won't get to see my dad or brothers again and it felt so peaceful... Call me insane but it felt good (I read this may be caused by a substance your body releases called DMT when it thinks it's dying, and DMT makes you feel good and helps you forget you are dying) .... Luckily I was close to a sand bank so I washed up on it and another surfer going out saw me, he rushed to me and put me on my board and layed on top of me and rode the waves back to shore on my board whilst managing his board... I got to shore and he asked me if I was okay... Me being to weak to speak gave him a thumbs up and that was that, I never got his name but all I can remember was that he was the strongly built black man, I layed on my stomach in a funny position and coughed the water out and just lay there on the shore for a while before getting the strength to get up and walk.... Thank you kind stranger and I'll never forget you for saving my life.
Wow that’s amazing, thank you for sharing your story.
Wow... What an amazing experience you got there...
Not a good experience but it left you with a great story and a clear understanding of the power of the sea.
When I was the fittest I have ever been I got caught in a rip on manly beach Sydney with around 30 swimmers.
The 5 life savers were so busy they came past me 4 times and told me keep doing what your doing and I actually swam myself back to shore.
I lay on beach and just thought about how weak a human really is and how I would ,100% have given up without their encouraging me.
DMT is secreted by the Pineal Gland, and people often use it to feel high. Apparently it is one of the most spiritually influential experiences of one's life.
Lol i smoke dmt
1:25 looks like it’s straight out of an action movie
2:32 is also an incredible shot, looks like he pushes the wave up with his hands
There's also a chopper in the shot towards the end
From 4:00 is some fantasy thing
Thank you for sharing! I have no surfing experience sadly, but as a Californian, and ocean lover, I have an appreciation for surfing. Thanks for taking us on the ride!
This is 1,000 times more entertaining than anything Hollywood has made in the last two years.
Or just ever
😭 The truth.
Thank you.
100% lol
Ya they have to cgi everything, plus the all the shitty human beings we call actors.
This dude and all these guys are literal living legends to be out there cooperating with such an amazing force of nature
I don’t speak “surfer “, but that was simply amazing when you surfed through the “tube” (???) what an experience and I can appreciate why you and your ilk surf despite the dangers that lurk beneath the waves. You’re in the aquatic life’s elements and understand the risks involved. Whether or not you encounter sharks, you understand/accept the risks and any associated consequences. Stay safe out there and catch a swell for those of us who’re admiring your skills from the shores for whatever reason.
You’ve more chance of winning the lottery than getting attacked by a shark
i get tossed and bullied by waves way smaller than these i cant imagine these😂
The beatings I've taken on waves that were only 9 feet on the faces tells me I don't have any business even watching this video...
@@matthewb8229 still pretty big
Yeah man, an hour at Leo Carrillo and I'm done for
Yeah man, an hour at Leo Carrillo and I'm done for
Man, living in a city, you look at this and think "wow, this looks hella fun, i wanna try". So I got to Newquay, Cornwall (apparent home of surfing) with my bodyboard, and get ptsd from getting drowned in a wave 1.5x taller then me....I know the feeling...
bruh being stuck in a spot where waves break on top of you before you can get away is fucking terrifying you just gotta keep going under them until the set is over
Yeah lmao I almost drowned once because of that cause the set was insanely long
@@tygardner2050 only thing that kept me from drowning once was the set was about 3 maybe 4 waves...i gotta reprieve
You understand this is 30ft jaws right?
My very first time surfing I got worked hard. Slammed 3 or 4 times in a row. Waves were only like 8 to 10 feet (yeah, I was in the Wrong place for a newbie when things shifted) and I was terrified!
I got stuck in that with heavy surfer traffic it was terrible I couldn't get out of their way or away from the waves finally another surfer pulled me out
You are allowing us all to really capture the beauty and awe of this powerful creation at all angles. Thank you for being brave enough to develop the skill and respect to do it. 🤗
Shows you how incredibly violent it is to swim in the ocean. I get my ass handed to me every single time, but I just can’t stay away. The sea is a formidable creature. I both love her, and fear her deeply.
Freaky fish guy
This is specifically a big wave beach with rough waters- most beaches are not like this
I’m just absolutely terrified of what’s in the water beneath me. I can’t get it out of my head. Just waiting for a pointer to breach.
The ocean is my toxic boyfriend… well, really the ocean is a woman for sure so it’s more of a toxic girlfriend
For those that don't understand "Jaws" is a surf spot on Maui
Yea know how the wave, did he jump off it so it wouldn't be as much impact, cause he turn, seen and jumped off. Just asking cause what if I stayed on 🙃 Shucks that seem horrible to come across
Is this that famous spot in Hawaii?
I'm confused then, what was the "worst nightmare"? All i saw was a surfer surfing...
They aren't scary until they are...
sharks arent scary, they are deadly
This is absolutely amazing to watch. The editing is second to none. Could watch this for hours.
I pull worse faces when its 3 foot!!
Make it 1 for me 😂🙈
Lol same
Lmao same
@@Gyatsigmaskibidirizzler68163 lol
Heck, 1 inch
Wow, this is amazing footage. Things look so peaceful in slow motion, but in real-time it is like being in a car wreck.
Haha it really is
More like a surfers dream!
This guys is a great surfer. If I was out that day I would have been happy to catch one of those waves for 3 seconds.
You gotta love being in the water and you must be calm every time you go under, especially if the water is cold.
If you want to feel how small you are, try your strength and endurance against the oceans consistent and inevitable waves
This is awesome
2:33 dude holy shit... what a beautiful shot
i was in Srilanka , having a long vacation by ocean i hear the waves even the sound of it caused many nightmares of tsunami. in my sleep..then people told me to surf that is like eating doner kebab in turkey as a tourist ..i was like are ypu insane ? i cant even swim in this sea ..once i did and wave broke at my neck and it was horrible..anyway.. then life brought people to me giving me tips how to swim then how to surf with baby waves and wipe out many times so on..after 3 months , on my last day in srilanka i surfed 2 meters high wave in hriketia .. it was unforgettable.. just one wave caused that emotion .. i am not sure if i wanna do it again but it was for me an example of a nightmare can turn into a joy ..you can master your fears ..and now i watch surfers , amazing !
This is the kind of thing I wanna try but scared of
Amazing footage!!! I never had the skill or courage to do anything resembling what Kai is doing here. Imua Braddah Kai! Mahalo for sharing what most of us can't even imagine.
That was absolutely incredible! Those of us out here who are unable to do such an incredible extreme sport are so grateful this is available! Especially if you have a disability and are unable to even try to achieve something like this I'm just stunned! I can't thank you enough for doing this I'm just so inspired and grateful you just have no idea!!🏄 I have a disability and I have wanted to surf my entire life and this was as close as I could get thank you thank you!!
Hey man! Highly recommend checking out “AccesSurf”, they are a non profit Adaptive Surfing program that specializes in taking people with disabilities out surfing. I’ve volunteered with them a few times, they are awesome. There are other programs around the US as well but I know these guys the best. So, you can do it! :) let me know if you find them
I dont find it incredible its just stupid. I prefer to stay safe and not be sharkfood.
@@dvb8637 just leave.. you are a coward and nothing more. Some people are simply more adventurous. And keep in mind that adventurous people advanced the human species by seeking out new land, establishing maritime routes that would lead to trade between different parts of the world etc. And their descendants inherited that lack of fear for dangerous activities. End of day, people can do what they want with their own lives as long as they're not harming anyone. And most surfers don't end up shark food either so that's that. I think inexperienced tourists usually end up getting attacked by sharks.
Lastly, you replying to this person to say this is disrespectful. They are admiring something they want to do but can't, and expressing their gratitude for the video. Your opinion is unwanted and your reply uncalled for. Let them enjoy their dream in the only way they can, don't be so insensitive.
@@fabiana7157 people can do what they want like comment on videos and say what they want, opinions are not shared because they are wanted they are shared because of the freedom to do so, original comment has no more value then the second, u just dont agree, u dont need to be mad about it, its okay to disagree, u don't need to call names come blazing, if u wanna show maturity dont be so aggressive, their comment was safer than yours was, which makes you saying what u did while doing the opposite, ironic lol notice their wording, i and i, you said statements as absolute facts, isnt that a bit hypocritical if ur calling someone out for being rude in ur opinion but ur too immature to say its just ur opinion, like they clearly formulated it to be, regardless of the content, in terms of sharing and expressing an opinion in a mature way, they went about it better than u did
@@fabiana7157 @Dvb very well put fab, way to show his ignorance and stupidity while simultaneously showing your own class and understanding of why people like us love to do what we do, some people are just frustrated with their inability to go outside their comfort zones
I’ve lined in Hawaii for 8 years now and have never been able to figure out how to do this. I think I have successfully caught maybe 3 waves, one on my stomach. People don’t realize how skilled these guys and gals really are.
That Sir is absolutely true! Greatest respect for these boys!!
Good on you for including the gals, courage and love of the ocean and it’s gifts is not gender specific 🤙🏽
Some activities people will only be able to appreciate once they tried them self. I don’t know that either yet, because I didn’t try it so far.
I think most people DO realize how skilled they are. I've never come across anyone who thought "whatever that's easy"
It looks ridiculously difficult.
The mount on his board is couple goals. Strongest bond I’ve ever seen.
4:18 Amazing place to be.
I can't tell if you're being sarcastic or not.
@@sammywammy64 Why would I be sarcastic?
@@callmeishmael3031 Because it’s also a very dangerous spot to be
That's no barrel. It's a vat!
@@sammywammy64 oh but the feeling of pulling in all the work is done and all you need to do is pull in and stay at there and enjoy the ride, incredible place to be
Amazing video, so fearless. I’ve been held down by waves well smaller than that, and I’ll never go in the ocean again. I was only 11 years old, didn’t have a life vest, no supervision, and there was a hurricane 1.5 days off the coast, so a bit different. Sucked out by a massive rip tide into 10-foot breakers. I had no idea it was unsafe, just a kid boogie boarding in North Carolina on vacation. Waves are usually so small, I got up at the buttcrack of dawn before all the adults and ran out to the beach by myself, was like “Finally some big waves to ride!” I was immediately ripped out to sea and pummeled without end, no idea which way was up. I was held down for so long I gave up and breathed in. At that moment I washed up on the beach.
So yeah I don’t go in the ocean any more. This video is terrifying to me but it does me good to see someone paddle out into the mighty ocean without fear and ride on its back for a while.
That's my nightmare man. I can only guess that it must've not been your time yet.
That’s crazy
You also chose shark feeding time to go out and do that😬. I’m glad you’re safe man!
I had similar experiences.
I was in 7-10’ faces at 4 mile in Santa Cruz Ca. and the waves were closing out the cove on me while I was learning.
My “friends” who talked me into going with them laughed on the beach while I struggled to stay alive.
I only lived through it because I was smart enough not to panic and stopped fighting the waves and conserved my strength and focused on my breathing.
I knew the waves couldn’t hurt me but that I surely would drown if I passed out.
By the time I got to the beach I was too weak to crawl out of the water.
People on the beach ran out to pull me out of the water.
I was 21 and in phenomenal shape, but had no clue what I was doing and my “friends” thought it was more fun to watch me drown than to teach me to surf.
@@fleebin2794 Great friends you got there...
really cool video! dissapointed there was no shark though. I kept waiting for a big grey monster to pop out and bit your board away hahaha. -Phil Accio
Awesome curl action at 3:00.
Onlookers: It is CRITICAL to maintain situational awareness of the depth of the water and the underwater terrain, because the higher up you are on a wave, the deeper it can drive you under if (for example) you fall off the curl - and if the depth is too shallow for the height you're falling from, you will get spiked into the bottom, and then dragged along it (like being in a washing machine on steroids). If that ever happens to you, pray it is soft sand and not hard rocks and/or sharp coral, or you will be in a world of hurt.
If I was the guy face planting next to you on that wave it would be my profile picture for the rest of my life
It’s a very rare pic for any photographer
That was truly one of the most amazing things I’ve ever seen before! It looks like you’re underwater, but you can still breathe! Looks like you’re in a different world!
When this guy was born he drove himself home from the hospital.
Who else thought there was going to be a shark because of the word ‘Jaws’
Edit: Thanks for all the likes!
Edit: I’m still thanking everyone for all the likes regardless the negative replies...
Jaws waves are scarier than a shark
@@nofood1 I didn’t say it wasn’t
Hahaha, me
@@vaniaramsawack-wu9333 I’m pretty sure every surfer thought the opposite
Not me.
Awesome footage. I’ve never yet. Thanks for taking us along in a way ❤
Be awesome to have another camera looking forward so we can see the drop you take.
i was just going to say that
@Maxwell KINGSTON not really because he has ot qt the front alrrady
the perspective wouldn't show how scary it really is. It's like hills on a gopro...the camera doesn't do the incline justice.
I’d be dead.
It’s just that simple.
Agree,absolutely agree
Same. I want to surf so bad, but I’m not a strong swimmer. I’ll stick to surfing the concrete.
@@shuuuuushhshs2698 amen 🙏
You wouldn't be able to paddle there! HAHAHA (Me neither)
Everytime I stumble across a surfing video, I find myself just watching in awe. I inevitably get to the point where I'm thinking "white people- God bless'em, the way they get bored just livin. What will they think of next? One thing you can be sure of- it'll kill ya." 🤣
Get down, white people, do y'all thang- surf it, skate it, spelunk it, climb it, shoot it, ski it, jump out of it, bungee off of it, put on one of those gliding suits and fly around it- yes, white folks do that shit! I am here for it! 👍
I'll just be right back here in the cut, safe and sound, warm and dry, not being able to relate, despite bein half white myself 🤣. I will never get tired of watching this shit, and I will never stop thinking that y'all have got to be the craziest people on this planet 🙆 🙌🙌🙌
That is off-the-hook WILD. I burned most of my youth climbing rock…..but the adrenaline addiction component of hard-surfing is all over that video. Thanks for posting !
The mount holding the cam is stronger than my will to live
kai balls r stronger
nothing wokey here.... :-)
You alright bro?
4:06 how BLUE that water is 🌊🌀💙 just stunning
Blue
It’s just the sky hunts.
@@branflakee4257 lol 😂
Blue
And we’re not noticing the fact he is on a 30 foot wave
Always wanted to surf waves this big but but the skill and talent needed to even attempt this is next level thank you for sharing and ride on many more waves
That top layer of water when it's all foamy and frothy everywhere is the worst, it's mostly air so it's hard to get above it and as it's always as head height, it's constantly in your face, eyes, nose and mouth..
I've only been in triple overhead surf ( beach break ) and it is FREIGHTENING beyond words. These guys venturing out in 30+ foot waves is insane.
Try nazare at near 100feet. And getting wiped out.
So that what it's like to get barreled...
Outstanding video, love the slow-mo, and the lack of music gives it a real-life feel to the viewer. Awesome skills.
This is one of the coolest filmed videos I've seen on TH-cam. It is amazing how effective no music is with a good, stable camera. Great angles and slowed down shots. I would be terrified out there!
Those tube rides were just amazing. Superlative editing And those slo-mo interludes were icing on the cake. This guy is a freaking beast on the waves, and he reads them like a scholar.
Totally awesome vid! I was in Maui back in 1992 when they were not yet surfing Jaws, mostly getting blown out at Hookipa, lol. TBH, I like this surf much better than Nazaré. Jaws - at least on these days you filmed - sure is big too but not prohibitively so. It's fantastic you guys can still paddle in and don't need a lot of equipment, can surf in short slacks and balmy waters under the beautiful Maui sun, every once in a while catching a ridiculous barrel... has so much more soul than Nazaré. Very beautiful and classy! Much love!!
Awesome video. Great whiteboard video shooting.
Mental footage!! That wave at 4:25 is sick. Caught myself moving with you and holding my breath the whole time. That's the closest I'll ever get to jaws. Keep sending it Kai. Yeeewww 🤙
so cool. why is the helicopter there? to get footage?
So impressed by your ability to sit so deep in the take off zone and pull straight into the barrel on these pitching mountains of water. One of the best, if not the Best big wave surfer when it comes to this consistency at this particular skill. Thanks for sharing!
"Its tricky out here right now"
*gets barrelled again*
Wow, just incredible. What balls of steel. Every time you surf these waves, you risk death, and it is a very sudden thing. These men and women represent the fittest humans, with extreme balance and guts. Such fine people. I'm really in awe. It is like watching a panther leap and take down something big, a primal feeling that most of us have atrophied. Superb images too!
Absolutely love it, I'm not a surfer but love this, the first I've watched that captures the speed properly, really impressive stuff. Well done, and cheers
Impressive and a reality check; even the very accomplished surfers get hammered frequently. Part of the game apparently. Lot of work/time/energy to get a few really good rides.
hours of boredom punctuated by hours of sheer terror :)
This is something I'd never normally watch, but I'm glad I did. It was amazing.
Just that first 11 seconds is freaking glorious! Really appreciate all that you have to contribute to the surfing world! 💯
10/10 - I can't even pick my favorite part. Amazing. From getting caught in the zone, to the dude dropping in and eating it to the sweet barrels. Subscribed. Thanks!
I don’t understand the context of the surf spot but I really appreciate the amount of safety and caution surrounding it. Group activity, the surfer in the video appears to have some sort of floating top if it not mistaken, multiple wave riders monitoring and helping, helicopters for the above monitoring. This sport can be extremely dangerous, especially in these conditions and I love to see people looking out for others
This is the most amazing footage I've seen in a while. Kai makes it look so easy!
😁
So good
The dude getting tossed was unreal looking in slow motion.
Brings me back to surfing in the Pacific. The waves and currents are brutal! I was always exhausted by the end of the day lol
2:59
Me when I see my bank account after a night out
Absolutely fucking hilarious made me lol
OMG THIS MADE ME WEEZE UNTILL I DIED.
@@koala-builds5708 did u die
@@zewexa6739 did I ask?
This sound pretty personal to you
4:15 I don't know why this is so cool to me but you literally see where the top of the water column is from below inside the barrel. The water is pulling on itself from the top as some of the water get sucked into the lip and the rest lags behind.
Any chance of surviving if we struck between them
Most amazing plaze to be. If everything goes smoothly & you don't get pounded that is lol
Thanks! I love this! For a person like me who has never surfed it a little like being there in person. Not just watching from the beach.
The fact that me and my family had just visited the jaws surfing area in Maui just a couple of weeks ago makes this video so much more impressive and fascinating to me.
I was so close to making it there but my friend was sick I’m disappointed I didn’t make it but glad she’s ok
How were the waves when you went
1:28 is probably one of the most brutal surfing moments i have seen
I have no idea how Kai maintains himself, it looks as though he's going so fast from the 'cam on board' perspective
@@Yahuah780 I'm pretty sure he's not human anymore :D
for one guy anyway :)
This has got to be the wildest video I've ever seen. How does this not have 1M??
even a 3 foot wave closing in on your head while paddling out is intimidating. so much respect for these guys.
Incredible footage ! A POV that only a very few get to experience ! A huge thanks for posting !
Man camera tech has come such a long way and to see you in those tubes in such hi rez detail is absolutely amazing. Stay safe out there u radical dudes :P
How far inside does he sit? Fearless!
I'm not a surfer but a sailor.
The foam @3:19 says it all to me.
edit: You people are seriously insane.
What's the foam mean?
@@black2amber turbulence. pressure. violence.
Wow. Great footage. The body flying through the air as you drop in is epic. Perfect shot.
4:20 time warp engaged. so insane so fearless
Came for the shark, stayed for the waves :D awesome vid :D
Thank you for taking us to the waves with you. The camera angles are completely nuts!
Your power, your energy and those waves!! If I only could be with you... what a feeling! Respect!!! 😅😅😅
Such a unique sport. I bet there’s nothing like the feeling of riding waves like this. I love and have been skateboarding for years but have never imagined myself trying surfing. Looks amazing though.
What an amazing video!!! How does it feel to be able to ride a wave....a wave ...air in between a spiral spinning salted water. Air, spinning, salted, water, spiral....those words don't go together, but here they are. ....magic!
HOw crazy real this looks.... simply amazing footage.... i wish there were some commentary from Kai... where he talks us through here...
That’s maybe the best footage I have seen 🤙🏼
That buzzing helicopter overhead was killing my buzz.
A special breed of spiders evolved just to make Kai's leashes.
Facts howd it not break
I’ve been surfing several times (learning of course) off the coast of Oregon where the wave breaks at about 4-5 feet, and even getting caught in those after taking a fall was terrifying. Both a buddy and I were absolutely struggling to get to the surface for a full breathe before the next wave sent you tumbling underneath the water again. Keep in mind all this going on with the board attached to you that gets pulled in every direction which you’re DESPERATELY trying to get back to as it is your life support in those situations. I couldn’t imagine trying to swim in these waters holy hell.
Don't you just have to go underwater like 3-4 feet while it passes?
The wave is as deep as it is tall. For a 3 ft wave you’d have to dive 3 ft to dodge it completely.
@@johanneswestman935 main danger is the energy from when it crashes down, the energy of wave itself doesn't hold you down. Just need to be under surface enough for wave crashing action to pass over you
@@heightsofsagarmatha That might be the main danger but if you've ever surfed you'll know that getting caught by the wave under water is dangerous too. You will feel like you're in a tumbler - your body is tossed and turned around with incredible energy. Sometimes you get so confused from it that you can't tell which way is up and which way is down. It's a very scary feeling.
@@heightsofsagarmathayes you can. Tried that in Laguna beach. Times it wrong a few times and was slammed 😅But also managed to time the diving. There were only a few that big so the rest I could just jump over
brian thompson with a tan wash day right nothing clean?
I tried surfing once in florida. I got thrown around and felt completely defeated on tiny waves. Much respect to surfers.
This gave me anxiety. The fact that he is enjoying himself makes it even more frustrating.
What an incredible sport! Excellent video with natural sounds and no crappy music Well done 👏👏👏👏
Was I the only person expecting a shark video 😂?