Thanks for the awesome videos on calibrating our miter saws! I just wanted to make sure everyone knows, calibrated straight edges should always be stored by hanging them from the hanging hole; it may feel like it's safe in a shipping tube but if stored laying down, the longer ones especially, can droop over time and lose their straightness.
I agree with your focus on calibration and own many of the tools that you do (or equivalents). Early on, I invested in a Starrett 6' steel straight edge, the foundation for using and inspecting many other calibration tools. (Because I also offered a precision extruded aluminum fence system, I also invested in a 60" granite straight edge, a machined 3" x 12" tall x 60" long beam that we used to test for twist as well as straightness of the extrusions.) I bring up the granite piece to point out that there is no limit to the level of precision attainable, but there are definitely limits to what is practical for a given application. IMO, your testing for run-out on miter saws is useful mostly on initial purchase, i.e., to determine whether to keep or return a new saw --- or else to determine that bearings have gone bad when the saw fails to perform as it once did. In lieu of testing for run-out every time you change the blade, I believe the more practical practice, which you also recommend, is to invest in top quality blades, realizing that for anything other than rough framing, the ones that come with most saws are junk. With FS and Forrest, you are paying largely for a plate tolerance within .002". With inferior blades, the runout of the blade itself makes the dial-in process pointless. As a practical matter, I feel that changing blades in the field when necessary, e g., changing from ATB to TCG if some aluminum must be cut, need not require the runout testing you show in another video. That said, I applaud your overall approach: without true understanding and proper calibration of our machines, we're just working in the dark. (Regarding tooling, it is likewise critical for jointers and planers with traditional straight knives that they be sharpened by reputable services that will send them back dead-nuts straight; otherwise, proper calibration will be an exercise in futility.)
On the woodpecker saw gauge be sure and get stem extensions as likely you will need them. It works best in first slot next to digital dial for stability ,not so much others. I have found even the thin kerf Freud industrial blades very flat and most runout is on saw spindle and most often the flange washers. Just be sure to leave 1-2 degrees toe- out on table saw fences to stay safe.
Lewis, you the man. Can I request a video. I’ve been on the fence about buying a jab master, but I can’t seem to find a video on how it works, you use one a constant. Could you please make a video on how it works
Hi Spencer - I followed the link for the 50” Veritas straight edge and found that the tool is somewhere else on the Lee Valley website. I’m happy to order though links to help support your channel. Would you want to update the link?
Kevin fischer Could be the arbor flange not thing also. I say just run good blades and not worry about it. Not really any well to tell without the proper facility besides thenrunout measurement.
Nearly all the major blade makers have 3 qualities of blades that also come with price. The issue is what will you be doing. I usually run a combination blade on a portable table saw for finish work but at the shop I have a variety of blades from glue line rip blade, to an atb fine tooth blade for some sheet goods and a triple chip blade for other types of sheet goods. The other tool I use with my portable table saw for finish work is a sanding plate. The plate I use has a shallow conical face to it 3 degrees I think. I allows me to edge sand on the table saw and because of the conical shape only contacts the wood at the center of the plate.
I had an 8 foot straightedge made by the people who sharpen my knives. The bed on their machine is 10 feet long. They made it from some hot rolled steel.
You should mention arbor run out to the novices. Those saws aren't precision saws no matter how nice a blade even if adding blade stabilizers. No matter what you do, they'll never be as good as a cabinet shop saw like an Omga or a Cmt. Expect some deflection is all I'm saying. However, as you point out, the clam clamps will take out most or all of the discrepancy for trim work.
I can't believe they sell us these tools with non flat beds and crooked rear fence. I did some checks just with a basic level as a straight edge and all surfaces are getting daylight between. Rear fence and bed. And upper fence extensions are way off.
@@adamandlorraine Yep, I have a makita LS1219L and the upper fences are nowhere near flush with the lower fences. I returned it and got another. Same problem but I kept it anyway. I figured I'd find a way to fix it.
@@adamandlorraine I should have purchased the Dewalt 12". I've used Dewalt extensively over the years at the companies I've worked for. When they're calibrated properly and with a good blade I think they're good saws. My Makita is mostly a play thing for at home. I still might sell it and get the Dewalt 12" flexvolt.
You are working with wood, not machining metal. All that is a waste of time and money. Your tape measure only measures as low as 1/16 for most tapes and 32-64ths if you do cabinet work which is still larger than .0015". I do enjoy your videos and have learned a few things, I just think this takes it a bit far.
Taking a new saw, which you are going to spend countless hours, days, and years using...and making it the best it can be(in less than one hour), is hardly a waste of time.
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Thanks for the awesome videos on calibrating our miter saws! I just wanted to make sure everyone knows, calibrated straight edges should always be stored by hanging them from the hanging hole; it may feel like it's safe in a shipping tube but if stored laying down, the longer ones especially, can droop over time and lose their straightness.
I agree with your focus on calibration and own many of the tools that you do (or equivalents). Early on, I invested in a Starrett 6' steel straight edge, the foundation for using and inspecting many other calibration tools. (Because I also offered a precision extruded aluminum fence system, I also invested in a 60" granite straight edge, a machined 3" x 12" tall x 60" long beam that we used to test for twist as well as straightness of the extrusions.) I bring up the granite piece to point out that there is no limit to the level of precision attainable, but there are definitely limits to what is practical for a given application. IMO, your testing for run-out on miter saws is useful mostly on initial purchase, i.e., to determine whether to keep or return a new saw --- or else to determine that bearings have gone bad when the saw fails to perform as it once did. In lieu of testing for run-out every time you change the blade, I believe the more practical practice, which you also recommend, is to invest in top quality blades, realizing that for anything other than rough framing, the ones that come with most saws are junk. With FS and Forrest, you are paying largely for a plate tolerance within .002". With inferior blades, the runout of the blade itself makes the dial-in process pointless. As a practical matter, I feel that changing blades in the field when necessary, e g., changing from ATB to TCG if some aluminum must be cut, need not require the runout testing you show in another video. That said, I applaud your overall approach: without true understanding and proper calibration of our machines, we're just working in the dark. (Regarding tooling, it is likewise critical for jointers and planers with traditional straight knives that they be sharpened by reputable services that will send them back dead-nuts straight; otherwise, proper calibration will be an exercise in futility.)
On the woodpecker saw gauge be sure and get stem extensions as likely you will need them. It works best in first slot next to digital dial for stability ,not so much others. I have found even the thin kerf Freud industrial blades very flat and most runout is on saw spindle and most often the flange washers. Just be sure to leave 1-2 degrees toe- out on table saw fences to stay safe.
Lewis, you the man. Can I request a video. I’ve been on the fence about buying a jab master, but I can’t seem to find a video on how it works, you use one a constant. Could you please make a video on how it works
sameer singh I definitely have it on the list to do eventually.
Spencer - do you have any plans for that work bench? I'd like to build one like it
Now I'm going to check my Kapex.
Hi Spencer - I followed the link for the 50” Veritas straight edge and found that the tool is somewhere else on the Lee Valley website. I’m happy to order though links to help support your channel. Would you want to update the link?
If your blade is out of wack what do you do other then replace the blade ?
Kevin fischer Could be the arbor flange not thing also. I say just run good blades and not worry about it. Not really any well to tell without the proper facility besides thenrunout measurement.
Hey bud I really enjoyed your content. Did you pull your channel or most f your other video.
Three Dewalt Miter Saws wow
What’s a good blade to use on the table saw for finish carpentry?
James Shea I run tenry gold medal 40t on the job site and in the shop. It’s very good. But certainly not the best.
Insider Carpentry thanks.
Nearly all the major blade makers have 3 qualities of blades that also come with price. The issue is what will you be doing. I usually run a combination blade on a portable table saw for finish work but at the shop I have a variety of blades from glue line rip blade, to an atb fine tooth blade for some sheet goods and a triple chip blade for other types of sheet goods. The other tool I use with my portable table saw for finish work is a sanding plate. The plate I use has a shallow conical face to it 3 degrees I think. I allows me to edge sand on the table saw and because of the conical shape only contacts the wood at the center of the plate.
Those LeeValley straight edges are almost impossible to get in Canada.
I had an 8 foot straightedge made by the people who sharpen my knives. The bed on their machine is 10 feet long. They made it from some hot rolled steel.
Bien Bueno 👍🏽📐🔨
You should mention arbor run out to the novices. Those saws aren't precision saws no matter how nice a blade even if adding blade stabilizers. No matter what you do, they'll never be as good as a cabinet shop saw like an Omga or a Cmt. Expect some deflection is all I'm saying. However, as you point out, the clam clamps will take out most or all of the discrepancy for trim work.
I can't believe they sell us these tools with non flat beds and crooked rear fence. I did some checks just with a basic level as a straight edge and all surfaces are getting daylight between. Rear fence and bed. And upper fence extensions are way off.
That's with a brand new Makita sliding mitre saw.
@@adamandlorraine
Yep, I have a makita LS1219L and the upper fences are nowhere near flush with the lower fences. I returned it and got another. Same problem but I kept it anyway. I figured I'd find a way to fix it.
@@ThekiBoran I had 4 units in total and in the end gave up and sold it on.
@@adamandlorraine
I should have purchased the Dewalt 12". I've used Dewalt extensively over the years at the companies I've worked for. When they're calibrated properly and with a good blade I think they're good saws.
My Makita is mostly a play thing for at home. I still might sell it and get the Dewalt 12" flexvolt.
@@ThekiBoran yep, I changed to a DeWalt 717 10 inch for site works and Kapex in the workshop.
You are working with wood, not machining metal. All that is a waste of time and money. Your tape measure only measures as low as 1/16 for most tapes and 32-64ths if you do cabinet work which is still larger than .0015". I do enjoy your videos and have learned a few things, I just think this takes it a bit far.
Taking a new saw, which you are going to spend countless hours, days, and years using...and making it the best it can be(in less than one hour), is hardly a waste of time.