With respect, to aluminium braze you need to clean both surfaces and heat the material hot enough to melt the braze rod. You seem to be using the flame to melt the rod and that does not work.
Brazing Aluminium is tricky ,stainless steel brush or wheel is a must. both pieces being joined have to be 'metallurgically' clean. no contaminates , no oxides which is difficult to achieve as oxide will form on the surface immediately once you hit it with the torch. Sometimes , I will tin \ wet the surface and scrape the metals through the molten puddle.
Brush in stainless steel compulsory. Some alu from DIY stores contain lead to shine better but very difficult to solder. And heat the surface well, not the solder. You stick the solder, you don't weld.
I don't think it'll be enough fuel to make a difference what it will do though is when he takes turns it'll make the tire on the outside of the turn bite the ground better
*sees him try to braze Al, weeps slightly* If I ever need to deal with aluminum I TIG weld it for weld cleanliness if nothing else. That stuff is tricky enough without having to deal with the insane oxidizing power it has.
@@dadsfriendlyrobotcompany want a tig machine that's worth your time and money you'll be spending $2,500 at least, don't fall for the harbor freight special
JohnnyQ90, You have to clean the aluminum really good with a stainless steel wire brush, then wipe it off with some acetone or lacquer thinner, then solder it immediately. Aluminum will oxidize very quickly and anything other than a stainless steel wire brush will contaminate the metal. Once you get it right that "aluminum solder" works great. Take care, be safe & healthy! P.S. The brass tank turned out great!
This is correct. Also if you would have made a small fold for the edge instead of butting them together, it would braised well. Not a fan of that myself, but it is very hard to tig a butt joint like that with such thin aluminum. Brass does look awesome
Hey I'm an oxyfuel welder and I do primarily aluminium you don't have enough heat in the base metal you need to wait to get what looks like molten lips and then shove in filler and move. It is difficult to learn but very effective to produce a vibrationally resistant and less stiff weld than tig. I know welding is not brazing the same but they do have similar principals. Hope this helped!
I agree with a half full tank almost all the weight will slam in to the outside corner and make understeer. Also weight moving left to right while you are going straight afterwards may make it a little squirrelly being in front of the axle. I couldnt have even come close to this fabrication much respect on your project. World needs all of this it can get right now.
As someone has mentioned already but I'd like to add more info. When using those aluminum brazing rods you need to thoroughly heat the material first. You really wanna avoid heating the brazing material directly and heat the surrounding areas. Use the material to draw in the brazing rod not the flame. Basically how you dod with the second tank. You heated the material on the outside of the joint and let the material heat up the rod. Beautiful job on the second tank. I'd love to see a tig welder in your hands.
I think for the aluminium brazing you need flux. And what are your plans for fuel lines? You can use the brass ones like the ones on the exhaust and make them proper hard-line. :) Awesome build so far. Cant wait to see where the end will end up. hehehe
Great work. LiFePo4 batteries - good choice! However, try and avoid Copper Alloys being in contact with aluminum as they can cause corrosion problems due to their positions in the Galvanic scale
Hi Johnny, try printing with a brim or increase the initial layer height to .3mm in your slicer! This will insure that the part does not lift off the bed. Worked for me!
From my understanding you shouldnt melt the rod with the torch. U need much more heat in the base material so the rod melts when in contact with the base material.
Great skills dude. With the ali brazing rods, the material needs to be very clean and use the base material to melt the rod with no contact from the torch. Can't wait to see the finished product of this build.
@Martin brazing is easy, and silver brazing can even be stronger than a weld given the right joint. What he needs to do is learn how to braze and not buy a gadget to do things for him.
John, all I can say is TIG welder, I practiced extensively (2 years) on AL awhile ago: but yes it does take practice-[the hardest practice to do are aluminum soda cans]...I used a Lincoln Electric 300 series, the big expensive one and pure Argon. Not sure if you got it hot enough, but has to be localized/small area and very hot (plasma) for short time. Gas torch is not very do-able.
Very well done! But you need a little hole in the Fuel cap, becaus when your Engine sucks in that fuel in your fuel tank will result a vacuum and your engine is running lean or starves because there will not run any more fuel. If you want to avoid fuel spouting out you can attach a little hose on top. But very good work so far. Maybe yout think about a Tig welder. I can recommend you the Stahlwerk WIG/TIG AC/DC 200 ST IGBT, its cheap compared to other inverters but ist welds very very good! And you finally can weld aluminium, brazz and other metals at a high quality. I bought one for myself before 3 weeks and i can highly recommend it.
Two things regarding the tank. Needs a valve that let's air in, otherwise you will create vacuum and it will starve for fuel (unless i missed something). Second, I don't think that liquid movement inside the tank will affect the fuel flow, unless it will be almost empty, but I would recommend using special sponge. Grind Hard Plumbing co. used it in their camaro build i belive.
The problem your having with the aluminium fusion rods is you're melting the rod with the torch flame, you need to heat the surface with the flame until it's hot enough to melt the rod, never try to directly melt the rod, when the surface is hot enough, the rod will flow along the seam
3:39 the back side, the side against the brick, never got hot enough. It takes a bit to familiarize with those zinc rods. A fuel tank isn't a great starter project with'm. The brass tank turned out great Thanks Johnny!
To weld aluminium you need to warm up the aluminium sheet until the brazing rods melt at contact. Never warm the brazing rods like tin on copper. Good video, waiting for next 👍 Sorry my english
You need to use aluminum flux if you are using a torch and aluminum sticks. You need to apply it to the area you want to solder and then heat it from behind. When you touch the wire at the area the flux will suck all the aluminum and make a perfect weld.
Hi, dont get discouraged! Brazing aluminium is not easy, even IF you have a right material, good surface preparation and good torch. But as well as with brass, you need to heat the material and let it melt the braze. Just keep trying with the right stuff. Also, I wanted to ask about your micro boring bars, where did you get them and the holders for them?
I’d remake another tank with dividers/buffers on the inside to prevent the fuel from all sloshing to one side or the other during acceleration, deceleration, and turning. Also as a career welder I feel pretty confident the soldering you using is not going to last or hold up. You ought to get yourself a cheap AC tig welder off eBay and weld and aluminum tank (aluminum is also going to hold up against corrosion better and not react to the fuel as copper eventually will
as someone who has gone to collage for welding i can say aluminm welding is hard to do but keep practiceing you will only get better with time but here is a good hint you want to make the edge start to pudle wonce that happens you will get a proper weld
What filament were you using there? Looked like maybe petg. Pla is a lot easier to print with. Either way it looks like you're overextruding, temp is too high or both. Also are you cleaning your bed with minimum 90% ipa every print? That corner lifting really shouldn't be happening.
Maybe. But I'm sure it will be the most beautiful machine in the world. I can respect that. I'm more of a "it works? Send it!" kinda guy, but I can definitely respect the ones that put their all into refinement and grace.
To braze the aluminum you need to get it hotter than what you were doing. Also, while its hot, you need to brush the aluminum with a STAINLESS STEEL brush to remove the oxidation, and then immediately after brushing hit it with the the brazing rod or it will not actually bond to the aluminum. Make sure to prep the aluminum with acetone and also scrape it thoroughly with the stainless brush to remove the initial oxidation. Also, apply the heat to the aluminum and not the brazing rod. Easiest way to do that is apply heat from under the part, and scrape the rod gently along the seam. If you do that you will have better success.
So with the alumiweld you have to heat the base metal to temp, then braze. When you keep the flame on the rod you're essentially melting without bonding. I've done really good neat work with the alumiweld rods, and I've done stuff that turned out horrible and bubble gum would've worked better. You kept the flame on the rod, thats why its turning out gloopy and globby. Heat, touch, heat, touch, heat, braze. Everytime you touch the rod to the base metal you're flame should either be ahead of your rod to heat the upcoming weld, or away from the rod. Hope this helps.
Would be nice to see an alternator which should reduce the size of the battery needed to operate. But great work and I as most people enjoy watching these.
Get a tig welder. The rebel is good. Practice, practice, practice. Usually with thicker aluminum you have to heat the aluminum up first for a good weld.
Love the work. keep it up! I run a t-maxx 2.5 with 3.3 drive train. Engine/suspension. Wheelies all day. You give me motivation to keep going with RC's. Thanks for the vid's!
So, I suggest that you should put a vent valve or a rollover valve onto this fuel tank Also put a throttle return spring onto the throttle servo, just in case it fails in full throttle to return it to idle
I found you mustn’t use any ferrous form of abrasion to clean the Ali. Stainless steel wire brushes work well. I once used a mild steel brush and it was a mess. Also iron oxide grinding wheels don’t work. Hope this helps, love your work.
Johnny I have a question for you. Is it possible to design a tire mold that could be use to make custom tread design, shape and size? I have green rubber that I can use to build the tire just no molds. The mold(s) would have to take up to about 250F (122C) degrees and have a pushing force of about 50lbs (23kg) to set the rubber in the mold.
Brass looks beautiful, You were on the right track with the aluminum, just need to buy Harris Al-Solder 500, and stay-clean flux, you can solder with a soldering iron.
Glad to see you are still going, TH-cam unsubbed me when I had notify all on (it did this for several of my favorite channels), so I was wondering where you had gone! Thanks for another great video, keep up the good work.
Nice yup that aluminum brazing rod can be a mess sometimes but you have to tin the surfaces it will act like solder .Takes some practice. The brass tank was the right way to go unless you tig weld it anyway. Might try putting anti splash baffles in though for when the tank starts to get low 👍
dude. i have the same dremel blowtorch. do you also have the issue of the catalyst inside the chamber burning out? I can't use any of the attachments anymore :(
Whenever you braze, you have to get the stick and the material quite a bit hotter. I’m talking glowing. Maybe that will solve your problem. Try using different sticks, too.
I've never welded before , but aluminium spreads the heat insanely fast so you have to heat it enough + cleaning the surface helps the stick join much easier. last thing, i think you are heating the rod instead of letting it melt duo the heat of the aluminium .
Hey Johnny, can you please tell me what kind of lathe you have ? If you have more than one im referring to the one used in your custom exhaust manifild videonfor the v4 engine. I really want a small bench lathe but the 7x12 i find i know are really crappy. Youre actually holds precision. Any link for it bud?
With the brazing rod for aluminium I have: I need to clean the surface with a (dedicated, clean) stainless steel brush first, then while heating when the material is hot enough to melt the rod also brush inside the puddle to get good adhesion without new oxide being formed directly inside the joint.
Johnny. I was wondering about when you tried to braze the aluminium if the metal wasn't staying hot long enough due to the tank acting like a heatsink or just not enough mass. I've use those rods on 3mm aluminium and it seems to have worked, and I was using a propane gas touch at the time because I found butane just wasn't hot enough. But you've got a nice tank there, can't wait to see and hear the car finished.
With respect, to aluminium braze you need to clean both surfaces and heat the material hot enough to melt the braze rod. You seem to be using the flame to melt the rod and that does not work.
Yes. And use stainless scriber to break the oxide layer on cleaned aluminum through the melted braze.
Richard Jordan Jordan in addition, flip your jig around 180° and blast heat at the joint directly instead of only on one side.
Yes, he used a better method for the brass. See a lot of people on TH-cam heating solder or rod but insufficient heat on the parent metal.
Brazing Aluminium is tricky ,stainless steel brush or wheel is a must. both pieces being joined have to be 'metallurgically' clean. no contaminates , no oxides which is difficult to achieve as oxide will form on the surface immediately once you hit it with the torch. Sometimes , I will tin \ wet the surface and scrape the metals through the molten puddle.
Brush in stainless steel compulsory. Some alu from DIY stores contain lead to shine better but very difficult to solder. And heat the surface well, not the solder.
You stick the solder, you don't weld.
The fuel tank would need some internal plates to avoid having the fuel moving around to much and losing corner stability and handling
I swear that process had a name I just can't remember it!
Baffles?
@@rileyfenley522 There we go ^.^
@@rileyfenley522 yup, that's it!
I don't think it'll be enough fuel to make a difference what it will do though is when he takes turns it'll make the tire on the outside of the turn bite the ground better
When johnyq90 uploads....
You stop everything you were doing and WATCH THE VIDEO
Debaditya Saha hahaha even if you’re cooking right ? my shrimps are burnt now 😂
I was taking my lessons through video conference and i watched the video while my teacher was explaining the lesson
DarkSystem4 obviously johny is lore importnant
@@marcdwanyne233 man 🤣
@@debadityasaha1684 Yeah, first Like the Video, than go fullscreen, and enjoy
imagine the things that would happen if this man had a tig welder...
Agreed. I need one as well..
*sees him try to braze Al, weeps slightly* If I ever need to deal with aluminum I TIG weld it for weld cleanliness if nothing else. That stuff is tricky enough without having to deal with the insane oxidizing power it has.
I think it was about $1200 for me to get setup to do TIG in my garage. That's with buying the argon cylinder.
Dad's Friendly Robot Company Ac/Dc? That’s actually pretty cheap including the bottle.
@@dadsfriendlyrobotcompany want a tig machine that's worth your time and money you'll be spending $2,500 at least, don't fall for the harbor freight special
People: **use cutters to cut aluminum sheets**
Johnny: *no*
Has lathe, cnc mill, 3d printer, but no $100 metal brake.
@@2Skinny Dexter scissors \m/
@@2Skinny give him time man
Keeps the edge flatter cutting thin sheet like that.
JohnnyQ90, You have to clean the aluminum really good with a stainless steel wire brush, then wipe it off with some acetone or lacquer thinner, then solder it immediately. Aluminum will oxidize very quickly and anything other than a stainless steel wire brush will contaminate the metal. Once you get it right that "aluminum solder" works great.
Take care, be safe & healthy!
P.S. The brass tank turned out great!
This is correct. Also if you would have made a small fold for the edge instead of butting them together, it would braised well. Not a fan of that myself, but it is very hard to tig a butt joint like that with such thin aluminum. Brass does look awesome
I could watch this guy work for days.
Keeps getting better and better.
So good 👍💜💛😘
soo satifying
he's literally building a real car but with exact but smaller parts!!!!!! genius or what!!!????
Hey I'm an oxyfuel welder and I do primarily aluminium you don't have enough heat in the base metal you need to wait to get what looks like molten lips and then shove in filler and move. It is difficult to learn but very effective to produce a vibrationally resistant and less stiff weld than tig. I know welding is not brazing the same but they do have similar principals. Hope this helped!
at the end of this video you DARE to label this wondrous exploration a MESS???? NO WAY!! been following awhile- totally enjoy your videos.
I agree with a half full tank almost all the weight will slam in to the outside corner and make understeer. Also weight moving left to right while you are going straight afterwards may make it a little squirrelly being in front of the axle. I couldnt have even come close to this fabrication much respect on your project. World needs all of this it can get right now.
INSTANT LIKE! So cool that you posted again! 😁
You have got to be the chillest youtuber of all time
As someone has mentioned already but I'd like to add more info. When using those aluminum brazing rods you need to thoroughly heat the material first. You really wanna avoid heating the brazing material directly and heat the surrounding areas. Use the material to draw in the brazing rod not the flame. Basically how you dod with the second tank. You heated the material on the outside of the joint and let the material heat up the rod. Beautiful job on the second tank. I'd love to see a tig welder in your hands.
Excellent as always
I think for the aluminium brazing you need flux.
And what are your plans for fuel lines? You can use the brass ones like the ones on the exhaust and make them proper hard-line. :)
Awesome build so far. Cant wait to see where the end will end up. hehehe
With all types of brazing the material needs to be so hot that it melts the rod. And proper cleaning ensures that it flows properly. Love you builts!
For such a small tank, angling the fuel gauge fittings on a 90 would give you better visibility at the top and bottom of the range.
At 4:13 it's interesting how the stack sways as different parts expand from the heat.
Great work. LiFePo4 batteries - good choice! However, try and avoid Copper Alloys being in contact with aluminum as they can cause corrosion problems due to their positions in the Galvanic scale
I have had my Ender 3 for about 2 years, and I recommend switching the hotend and extruder to a E3D Titan Aero
I have nothing to do with RC, but I can't wait until you release a satisfying video.
This is the fastest 9 minutes vid i seen.... Need more....
I have never seen you make a bad video, all of your videos are awesome!
Hi Johnny, try printing with a brim or increase the initial layer height to .3mm in your slicer! This will insure that the part does not lift off the bed. Worked for me!
Glad you changing the fuel tank looks much better
How can 41 people dislike this? Are they really that envious at talent?
Great to see you try new things too, sky is the limit for future builds
for that braze, you really should be preheating the entire part first.
Also, those cheap ally brazing rods need far more heat than you're supplying. They will flow in a clean joint when heated enough.
From my understanding you shouldnt melt the rod with the torch. U need much more heat in the base material so the rod melts when in contact with the base material.
Id also say some flux is needed he's putting way to much heat into it
Soldering ≠ Brazing
You can fix anything man.....AMAZING
The fuel tank alone is a work of art,I hope one day you build a miniture V8 engine,similar to the Connolly V8
This guy is an artist I swear
Great skills dude.
With the ali brazing rods, the material needs to be very clean and use the base material to melt the rod with no contact from the torch.
Can't wait to see the finished product of this build.
This was the perfect excuse to buy a tig welder.
And there's many hours before he can tig thin sheet metal. :)
If he master the flame on weld system, he could be better than tig welder
Seriously of all the GREAT kit they have, i'm suprised they don't have a welder yet. That 5 Axis CNC Mill alone...
@Martin brazing is easy, and silver brazing can even be stronger than a weld given the right joint. What he needs to do is learn how to braze and not buy a gadget to do things for him.
John, all I can say is TIG welder, I practiced extensively (2 years) on AL awhile ago: but yes it does take practice-[the hardest practice to do are aluminum soda cans]...I used a Lincoln Electric 300 series, the big expensive one and pure Argon.
Not sure if you got it hot enough, but has to be localized/small area and very hot (plasma) for short time. Gas torch is not very do-able.
You gotta make a sick little track for this car when its done
Very well done! But you need a little hole in the Fuel cap, becaus when your Engine sucks in that fuel in your fuel tank will result a vacuum and your engine is running lean or starves because there will not run any more fuel. If you want to avoid fuel spouting out you can attach a little hose on top. But very good work so far. Maybe yout think about a Tig welder. I can recommend you the Stahlwerk WIG/TIG AC/DC 200 ST IGBT, its cheap compared to other inverters but ist welds very very good! And you finally can weld aluminium, brazz and other metals at a high quality. I bought one for myself before 3 weeks and i can highly recommend it.
Ça faisais longtemps que j'avais plus vue vos vidéos sa me manquais alors je m'abonne.De vous voir faire sa a l'air tellement simple.
Lovely work. That is a very cute & elegant fuel tank.
You should make a mini face mill for your CNC mill.
Two things regarding the tank. Needs a valve that let's air in, otherwise you will create vacuum and it will starve for fuel (unless i missed something). Second, I don't think that liquid movement inside the tank will affect the fuel flow, unless it will be almost empty, but I would recommend using special sponge. Grind Hard Plumbing co. used it in their camaro build i belive.
The problem your having with the aluminium fusion rods is you're melting the rod with the torch flame, you need to heat the surface with the flame until it's hot enough to melt the rod, never try to directly melt the rod, when the surface is hot enough, the rod will flow along the seam
4:30 I can hear my mom now: "NOT THE GOOD SCISSORS!!"
Ah ah nice
3:39 the back side, the side against the brick, never got hot enough. It takes a bit to familiarize with those zinc rods. A fuel tank isn't a great starter project with'm. The brass tank turned out great Thanks Johnny!
To weld aluminium you need to warm up the aluminium sheet until the brazing rods melt at contact.
Never warm the brazing rods like tin on copper.
Good video, waiting for next 👍
Sorry my english
That is the nicest fuel tank I ever seen
ASMR for me dude and then the TUNE at the end . AWESOME!
You need to use aluminum flux if you are using a torch and aluminum sticks. You need to apply it to the area you want to solder and then heat it from behind. When you touch the wire at the area the flux will suck all the aluminum and make a perfect weld.
Your builds are amazing i hope u keep up the good work👍👌👍
That's awesome ul never be stuck for rc parts or whatever is ur hobby cool piece of equipment 👍
Dude,I SO THINK that "Brass" tank looks WAY BETTER than that aluminum one!!! Great Job!!! :-)
Hi, dont get discouraged! Brazing aluminium is not easy, even IF you have a right material, good surface preparation and good torch. But as well as with brass, you need to heat the material and let it melt the braze. Just keep trying with the right stuff.
Also, I wanted to ask about your micro boring bars, where did you get them and the holders for them?
I liked the fast forward of the end plate soldering, you can see the metal deflect to the varying heat.
I’d remake another tank with dividers/buffers on the inside to prevent the fuel from all sloshing to one side or the other during acceleration, deceleration, and turning. Also as a career welder I feel pretty confident the soldering you using is not going to last or hold up. You ought to get yourself a cheap AC tig welder off eBay and weld and aluminum tank (aluminum is also going to hold up against corrosion better and not react to the fuel as copper eventually will
Very nice fabrication... excellent result.
This is awesome. I need to build a tank for a model aircraft and this has shown me how it should be done. Thanks.
it looks like the aluminum rod didnt get hot enough to melt properly.
have you tried welding?
You should make you're a small Break Press for doing bends. Really enjoyed the video 👍
Johnny you are they ultimate machinist
as someone who has gone to collage for welding i can say aluminm welding is hard to do but keep practiceing you will only get better with time but here is a good hint you want to make the edge start to pudle wonce that happens you will get a proper weld
What filament were you using there? Looked like maybe petg. Pla is a lot easier to print with. Either way it looks like you're overextruding, temp is too high or both. Also are you cleaning your bed with minimum 90% ipa every print? That corner lifting really shouldn't be happening.
the fuel level gauge is so awesome !
May be we'll see this running in 2021
Edit: thanks for the likes
lol xD
Maybe. But I'm sure it will be the most beautiful machine in the world. I can respect that. I'm more of a "it works? Send it!" kinda guy, but I can definitely respect the ones that put their all into refinement and grace.
you mean 3021?
Dislike for the edit
To braze the aluminum you need to get it hotter than what you were doing. Also, while its hot, you need to brush the aluminum with a STAINLESS STEEL brush to remove the oxidation, and then immediately after brushing hit it with the the brazing rod or it will not actually bond to the aluminum. Make sure to prep the aluminum with acetone and also scrape it thoroughly with the stainless brush to remove the initial oxidation.
Also, apply the heat to the aluminum and not the brazing rod. Easiest way to do that is apply heat from under the part, and scrape the rod gently along the seam. If you do that you will have better success.
So with the alumiweld you have to heat the base metal to temp, then braze. When you keep the flame on the rod you're essentially melting without bonding. I've done really good neat work with the alumiweld rods, and I've done stuff that turned out horrible and bubble gum would've worked better. You kept the flame on the rod, thats why its turning out gloopy and globby. Heat, touch, heat, touch, heat, braze. Everytime you touch the rod to the base metal you're flame should either be ahead of your rod to heat the upcoming weld, or away from the rod. Hope this helps.
Would be nice to see an alternator which should reduce the size of the battery needed to operate. But great work and I as most people enjoy watching these.
Get a tig welder. The rebel is good. Practice, practice, practice. Usually with thicker aluminum you have to heat the aluminum up first for a good weld.
Love the work. keep it up! I run a t-maxx 2.5 with 3.3 drive train. Engine/suspension. Wheelies all day. You give me motivation to keep going with RC's. Thanks for the vid's!
So, I suggest that you should put a vent valve or a rollover valve onto this fuel tank
Also put a throttle return spring onto the throttle servo, just in case it fails in full throttle to return it to idle
I found you mustn’t use any ferrous form of abrasion to clean the Ali. Stainless steel wire brushes work well. I once used a mild steel brush and it was a mess. Also iron oxide grinding wheels don’t work. Hope this helps, love your work.
Johnny I have a question for you. Is it possible to design a tire mold that could be use to make custom tread design, shape and size? I have green rubber that I can use to build the tire just no molds. The mold(s) would have to take up to about 250F (122C) degrees and have a pushing force of about 50lbs (23kg) to set the rubber in the mold.
Brass looks beautiful, You were on the right track with the aluminum, just need to buy Harris Al-Solder 500, and stay-clean flux, you can solder with a soldering iron.
What did you use to solder this brass gas tank? Did you use flux or immediately without it?
huge work !! congrat for your determination !
That fuel level gauge is genius
wow... I enjoy watching the close view of the drilling steps. Amazing!!!
Glad to see you are still going, TH-cam unsubbed me when I had notify all on (it did this for several of my favorite channels), so I was wondering where you had gone! Thanks for another great video, keep up the good work.
That's a really nice looking fuel tank, take care of yourself and loved ones.
Nice yup that aluminum brazing rod can be a mess sometimes but you have to tin the surfaces it will act like solder .Takes some practice. The brass tank was the right way to go unless you tig weld it anyway. Might try putting anti splash baffles in though for when the tank starts to get low 👍
The hard work is really worth !!
i think the brazing rod needs to melt on the material, not in the flame
this thing had very low thermal mass
very difficult, obviously
Yeah, brazing is better for joining bigger things, not 0.5 or 1mm sheets.
That would be called welding
@@milan4632 more like soldering really, brazing is also a kind of soldering too, neither are fusion welding.
*JQ90 doesn't the bigger weight have to be under the cause of the center of gravity?*
dude. i have the same dremel blowtorch. do you also have the issue of the catalyst inside the chamber burning out? I can't use any of the attachments anymore :(
Whenever you braze, you have to get the stick and the material quite a bit hotter. I’m talking glowing. Maybe that will solve your problem. Try using different sticks, too.
the low temp rods work best with a drop or two of acid flux on the aluminum after its hot and right before applying the rod .
I've never welded before , but aluminium spreads the heat insanely fast so you have to heat it enough + cleaning the surface helps the stick join much easier.
last thing, i think you are heating the rod instead of letting it melt duo the heat of the aluminium .
Do you like that 3d printer was thinking picking one up but I didn't want to buy one of those enders if it was really bad quality
I just subscribed. I really want to see the finish product. Keep up the great work.
Simplemente un Crack en todo lo que haces. Gracias por tus videos. Un saludo desde España. Marco
Thought about using a small alternator/generator so you dont need a battery for the servos?
Finally something good to watch
Getting the vid notification feels like payday.
That must be one heavy lil vehicle lol but truly worth it for all the innovation you're putting into it
Hey Johnny, can you please tell me what kind of lathe you have ? If you have more than one im referring to the one used in your custom exhaust manifild videonfor the v4 engine. I really want a small bench lathe but the 7x12 i find i know are really crappy. Youre actually holds precision. Any link for it bud?
With the brazing rod for aluminium I have: I need to clean the surface with a (dedicated, clean) stainless steel brush first, then while heating when the material is hot enough to melt the rod also brush inside the puddle to get good adhesion without new oxide being formed directly inside the joint.
I love all the awesome things you make
Johnny. I was wondering about when you tried to braze the aluminium if the metal wasn't staying hot long enough due to the tank acting like a heatsink or just not enough mass.
I've use those rods on 3mm aluminium and it seems to have worked, and I was using a propane gas touch at the time because I found butane just wasn't hot enough.
But you've got a nice tank there, can't wait to see and hear the car finished.
I love the brass work. 👌