I think you should make a bracket to mount you're brake pressure switch so it points straight up , rather than pointing at the pulley A bit of alloy angle would suit
Well you may not be an engineer, but you certainly think like one. Thinking ahead to how to access things and making sure the braided line doesn't rub, I think, in the end will give you a really nice specimen of this car. Looking forward to seeing it all painted up.
The computer won’t servive the heat from the headers and high temp in the hole area. That’s why they always put the module in through the firewall into the driver’s compartment. 😎
I would suggest a spacer that the alternator mounting bolt goes through between the two mounting ears on the alternator. Applying fastener pressure on the outer mounting ear worries me. An exact spacer will relieve/prevent any deflection or possible bending/breaking of the outer ear.
The bungs may be an NPT thread, which is a taper so will only go in a certain distance. Tank isolation valve: I have used an electrical one. No need to get out and open the rear end, just flick a switch. Exhaust system: You look to be very tight on getting the four primary pipes on each side past the back of the engine. Mine are 1¾" so four of them take a lot of space even with very tight bends. Fitting two cats and effective silencing will fill the space available, giving you a very hot area for the throttle body to sit in if you reverse the intake manifold. Wiring loom: The loom supplied with the Controls Pack is for a front engine - rear wheel drive layout, so the breakouts are very unlikely to be in the right places. I 'un-loomed' mine and rearranged it to suit ... only had to lengthen one wire in the new layout and no plugs had to be changed ... although 're-looming' was a pain. But the main part of the fun is sorting out all of these little problems ... It'll be bloody awesome when you get to drive it, take it from me 😉
Thanks for the feedback/suggestions Peter, much appreciated. Its exciting to see each step being completed and getting one step closer to having a complete car, just trying to manage that excitement as it could still be a little while before I get to enjoy the first start, let alone the first drive!
Fantastic mate, have been watching your build from day one with my son and getting the block in is indeed a massive milestone. Keep going with your extremely well detailed TH-cam blog which is no doubt bloody hard work in itself but awesome and inspiring others with the dream to build a GT40👍
With this oil pan, if you're going to get it modified for fitment anyhow, why not get it extended forward a bit at the same time to regain some of that lost oil capacity? This isn't possible in a normal install the pan was designed for, since there's a cross member there, but in a swap I feel it would be a wasted opportunity if you didn't since there's oodles of space to the front. Make a cardboard template to see how much bigger you can go. Just an idea.
@@BuiltbyDan Also, Metalcorp sells aluminium angle in various sizes and grades. That could notch the rear frame where the transaxle goes. Cut off some triangles from the excess to use as fillets to stiffen it if needed. Fairly simple little job that but you might have to get someone to weld it in for you - which you'd have to do anyway.
Cut the oil pan bungs off and place them on the front towards fire wall this way you can still run sensors, a engineer will be able to remove them weld up the holes and reweld them to the front of the pan
I'd bet the kit manufacturer didn't actually try to fit that oil pan, they just looked at the dimensions of the pan on a spec sheet, did a quick measurement of the chassis rails, and called it good. Great to see everything else on the engine is fitting or within fettling range. Being able to jimmy the car around on the casters while putting the engine in probably makes it a lot easier, yeh? Personally, I would think about waiting and determining the mounting location for the remote oil filter as the very last thing. It's location is of less consequence, and leave yourself maximum clearance for the exhaust.
With the issue with the oil pan, I would remove the two bungs and install the pan on the engine to see if the mounts and the oil pan are compatible. Even with the two bungs and the weld around them removed you are going to have very little side-to-side room to position the engine. Be really thoughtful about where you place items in the bay because you do not want to create a situation where a simple replacement or repair requires the removal of other components to complete that repair. I would solve the exhaust fitting before adding any more items due to the heat effect from the exhaust. Remember that a big engine will move under hard acceleration and what seems like a lot of clearance disappears. You are doing beautiful work and it is a joy to watch.
Thanks for the advice Rudy, I'll probably even look at ways to try and confirm the positioning of the pan between the rails before I start modifying it. As in, make sure the engine does sit central between the two chassis rails, as there is not much clearance to play with if it is slightly offset, and will completely change the approach to modifying the pan. Your point on not filling the engine bay with other accessories until the exhaust is resolved is noted and I definitely think I'll be taking that approach.
nice work dan in regards to getting to the fuel valve if you drill a 3mm hole in the end of the tap handle and get a spoke from a mountain bike you can put the spoke through the hole in the tap handle screw the spoke nut on and put a small p clamp on the spoke and screw to the frame then the fuel valve can be put in a tight place but the spoke end can be up to 300mm away and all you need to do is push or pull the spoke to close or open the valve hidden and out of the way of exhaust win win in my books cheers glenn
I think you will need to put a P clip on that coolant tube so that it does not move under acceleration and braking. Just to avoid it contacting that pulley
For that replacement pulley, I am wondering if the kit was designed for someone using a junk yard motor so they included a new pulley to replace the older, possibly worn pulley. Keep the one you took off as a spare.
I agree with all of your adjustments on the cooling tubes and the fuel system. My only concern with that oil pan (under the assumption it will sit between this frame rails and not drop down though them) is how much those engine mounts will listen with age. When Regina there is of course some flex to the engine. While those mounts look quite rigid, every engine I have ever seen and worked on twists at least an inch or two when you hit the throttle. So you may need to narrow that oil pan. Love your work. Keep the videos coming.
Thanks for the feedback. Yes, the oil pan is a bit of a concern. Going to see if I can find out what other builders have done for this kit in particular.
The AC belt is pretty easy to put on, get the belt around the compressor and started on the main crank pulley. Where it's fully on the crank pulley put a huge ziptie on it to hold it to the crank pulley and then rotate the crank like putting a popped chain back on the bike. And for anyone wondering....that is from the Ford installation manual.
G'day Scott, I have considered that. I like the thermostatic controller on the cooler plate, so the oil only diverts to the cooler once the engine/oil reaches temperature. How important that is on a Gen 3 Coyote, I don't know... I guess it didn't have that setup from factory...
At 29:26 you have the remote oil filter sat below the mounting points for the "rear sheer plate: why not utilize at least one of those holes as a mounting point? you would have to be very lucky to have both line up exactly. but will cut down on drilling?? Enjoying the build... always wanted to do it... but no ability to register a kit car where i am.
I was hoping the bracket might line up with both bolts, but unfortunately not. I was actually thinking of lowering the filter bracket just below the shear plate, so its just bolted to the internal wall of the sill.
Thanks Peter. Me too! It will be a bit of hassle, although there will be some access through the removable panel on the firewall, it will certainly be awkward!
great progress! I would install your brake pressure switch in front with the master cylinder. And are you sure your oil pan will not clear? Because in reality, it sits higher up than what you tried it... Can't you install the ECU to the access panel?
Oil pan definitely doesn't fit. The bottom of the pan will basically finish level with the bottom of the chassis rail. ECU will most likely be mounted on rear wall inside cab.
Do you need to run both the remote oil filter take-off, and the sandwich plate to the oil cooler? Cant you just run the remote filter to the cooler, in series, and then back to the take-off? Would give you more clearance, and less stuff to go wrong. From what I've seen, the sandwich plates are often a leak point.
Interesting that you raise this as I was considering possibly moving the cooler take-off plate to the remote filter bracket to save on clearance under the engine. I like the idea of the cooler plate as it has a thermostatic controller, so will only divert oil to the cooler once it reaches temperature.
Are they not tapper fitted bungs? You may be able to get a tapered tap and enlarge the bung tap so that they screw in further. Will the pan fit if the bungs are removed entirely?
I never ended up checking that... In theory I think it will, as long as the engine/oil pan is centred over chassis rails and not offset to one side, as there won't be a lot of tolerance. Might check that out this weekend!
Hi Dan, When the engine is installed do the oil pan bungs sit below the chassis rail? If yes, remove the bungs when installing the engine and install the bungs post installation.
G'day Gary, I did look at that after I installed the engine. Took a few measurements and the bottom of the sump will sit in line with bottom of the chassis rail, so will need to do a bung delete.
When II see the engine in the chassis and no clearance up front, it makes me wonder if the transmissions adapter plate is supposed to be bolted to the backside of the chassis tray and not in front of it.
Its definitely designed to sit on the front side (based on manufacturers guidance). I've looked into this a bit, seems to be driven by the Graziano transaxle, as its quite a large transaxle and even as is, it will stick out the back a bit and require the rear clip to be trimmed to accommodate, so you couldn't really mount it any further back. I've also notice the adapter plate seems to be a lot thicker on mine than what the photos show in their build manual for what I assume is the Porsche transaxle setup. All likely contributing factors.
@@BuiltbyDan I saw the thinner adapter plate on one of their site photos, too. Thickness is determined by input shaft, and throw-out bearing position in the bell housing. You might be able to source a thinner bearing or a shorter shaft and then mill down the plate. A lot of extra work for maybe 10mm. I also saw in their pic that the top support plate was carved out for the intake, as you were suspecting.
G'day Mark, yes motor and transaxle had to be specified at time of order. Depending on the kit and the different stages it can be purchased in there may be an ability to decide at a later point, but for mine, because I ordered the complete kit up front, I had to specify both so they could fabricate the chassis, engine mounts and transaxle adapter plate to suit.
That oil filter remote kit is very close. Why don't you just run the AN lines from that through the oil cooler and to the other end and get rid of the sandwich plate?
I hadn't really thought of that, was focussed on the benefit(?) of the thermostatically controlled valve that will only divert oil to the cooler once it reaches temp... but I guess the stock engine doesn't require it, so might need to look at whether it provides any real benefit.
@@BuiltbyDan oh it has a thermostat, interesting... Does that mean you have to warm the engine up to change the oil with that in? The one I have is just a sandwich plate, no thermostat but no remote oil filter.
Not entirely sure about the oil change process, but you're probably right, as will need the thermostat to open to drain any oil sitting in the cooler lines...
It seems like the company that you bought your kit from does things just good enough . It's pretty hard to find a company that actually goes above and beyond to provide better than just good enough . I imagine that's why there's so many recalls in the automotive industry . If 10 is good enough , then make it 20 for good measure .
Also make sure any hoses don’t collapse under vacuum. Had a mate loose an engine when it sucked the dry sump link flat. Starved the engine of oil as a result.
G'day Robert, yes, there are a few examples that are running the Coyote engine in different GT40 kits. I'm not sure if there is one running in this particular kit yet.
I actually looked at the 7.3L Godzilla, but at the time there wasn't a lot of support for it. I should have waited a few more months as it didn't take long for a bunch of aftermarket components to hit the market!
Quelle idée de monter un moteur sans ses accessoires avant de monter les périphériques comme s'il y avait de la place. Résultat ça touche et encore tout n'est pas encore monté 😂😂😂. Vous auriez dû le positionner de l'autre côté des équerres où se fixe l'entretoise pour gagner les quelques centimètres nécessaires. C'est un montage de prototype et rien ne va jamais, il faut monter et démonter 100 fois avant de placer les éléments et je ne connais pas votre métier, mais vous ne semblez pas avoir les compétences requises !
G'day, the kit is from Absolute Pace in Queensland Australia. There's a link to their website in the video description. Complete kit (all 3 stages) was around AUS100k (approx. USD70k). Shipping will depend on where you are located (I think it cost me approx. AUD5k including the timber shipping crate).
I think you should make a bracket to mount you're brake pressure switch so it points straight up , rather than pointing at the pulley
A bit of alloy angle would suit
Well you may not be an engineer, but you certainly think like one. Thinking ahead to how to access things and making sure the braided line doesn't rub, I think, in the end will give you a really nice specimen of this car. Looking forward to seeing it all painted up.
The computer won’t servive the heat from the headers and high temp in the hole area. That’s why they always put the module in through the firewall into the driver’s compartment. 😎
If possible, I would be rotating the brake pressure switch away from the pulley, either pointing it up or down parallel with the firewall.
Hook a choke linkage to your fuel tank isolation valve and be able to operate it in the cab
I would suggest a spacer that the alternator mounting bolt goes through between the two mounting ears on the alternator. Applying fastener pressure on the outer mounting ear worries me. An exact spacer will relieve/prevent any deflection or possible bending/breaking of the outer ear.
Thanks for the suggestion.
The bungs may be an NPT thread, which is a taper so will only go in a certain distance.
Tank isolation valve: I have used an electrical one. No need to get out and open the rear end, just flick a switch.
Exhaust system: You look to be very tight on getting the four primary pipes on each side past the back of the engine. Mine are 1¾" so four of them take a lot of space even with very tight bends.
Fitting two cats and effective silencing will fill the space available, giving you a very hot area for the throttle body to sit in if you reverse the intake manifold.
Wiring loom: The loom supplied with the Controls Pack is for a front engine - rear wheel drive layout, so the breakouts are very unlikely to be in the right places. I 'un-loomed' mine and rearranged it to suit ... only had to lengthen one wire in the new layout and no plugs had to be changed ... although 're-looming' was a pain.
But the main part of the fun is sorting out all of these little problems ... It'll be bloody awesome when you get to drive it, take it from me 😉
Thanks for the feedback/suggestions Peter, much appreciated. Its exciting to see each step being completed and getting one step closer to having a complete car, just trying to manage that excitement as it could still be a little while before I get to enjoy the first start, let alone the first drive!
Dan, chase the threads in the bungs to clear out plating and adjust tapered NPT threads to recess plugs to desired depth.
Thanks for the advice!
you are the guy your project is perfect.
Thank you!
Fantastic mate, have been watching your build from day one with my son and getting the block in is indeed a massive milestone. Keep going with your extremely well detailed TH-cam blog which is no doubt bloody hard work in itself but awesome and inspiring others with the dream to build a GT40👍
G'day Noah, great to hear you enjoy watching the videos with your son. Appreciate the support!
With this oil pan, if you're going to get it modified for fitment anyhow, why not get it extended forward a bit at the same time to regain some of that lost oil capacity? This isn't possible in a normal install the pan was designed for, since there's a cross member there, but in a swap I feel it would be a wasted opportunity if you didn't since there's oodles of space to the front.
Make a cardboard template to see how much bigger you can go. Just an idea.
Great idea! I'll definitely look into that.
@@BuiltbyDan Also, Metalcorp sells aluminium angle in various sizes and grades. That could notch the rear frame where the transaxle goes. Cut off some triangles from the excess to use as fillets to stiffen it if needed.
Fairly simple little job that but you might have to get someone to weld it in for you - which you'd have to do anyway.
Nice work Dan!!! This is a big milestone. Engine is IN!!! It fits well. Coyotes are huge. I had to shoehorn mine into my 65 mustang.
Cut the oil pan bungs off and place them on the front towards fire wall this way you can still run sensors, a engineer will be able to remove them weld up the holes and reweld them to the front of the pan
That's a good idea to move to the front, at least to retain one of them.
I'd bet the kit manufacturer didn't actually try to fit that oil pan, they just looked at the dimensions of the pan on a spec sheet, did a quick measurement of the chassis rails, and called it good. Great to see everything else on the engine is fitting or within fettling range. Being able to jimmy the car around on the casters while putting the engine in probably makes it a lot easier, yeh? Personally, I would think about waiting and determining the mounting location for the remote oil filter as the very last thing. It's location is of less consequence, and leave yourself maximum clearance for the exhaust.
So much easier to move the car than the engine crane!
With the issue with the oil pan, I would remove the two bungs and install the pan on the engine to see if the mounts and the oil pan are compatible. Even with the two bungs and the weld around them removed you are going to have very little side-to-side room to position the engine. Be really thoughtful about where you place items in the bay because you do not want to create a situation where a simple replacement or repair requires the removal of other components to complete that repair. I would solve the exhaust fitting before adding any more items due to the heat effect from the exhaust. Remember that a big engine will move under hard acceleration and what seems like a lot of clearance disappears. You are doing beautiful work and it is a joy to watch.
Thanks for the advice Rudy, I'll probably even look at ways to try and confirm the positioning of the pan between the rails before I start modifying it. As in, make sure the engine does sit central between the two chassis rails, as there is not much clearance to play with if it is slightly offset, and will completely change the approach to modifying the pan.
Your point on not filling the engine bay with other accessories until the exhaust is resolved is noted and I definitely think I'll be taking that approach.
nice work dan in regards to getting to the fuel valve if you drill a 3mm hole in the end of the tap handle and get a spoke from a mountain bike you can put the spoke through the hole in the tap handle screw the spoke nut on and put a small p clamp on the spoke and screw to the frame then the fuel valve can be put in a tight place but the spoke end can be up to 300mm away and all you need to do is push or pull the spoke to close or open the valve hidden and out of the way of exhaust win win in my books cheers glenn
That's an excellent idea. Thanks for the suggestion!
I think you will need to put a P clip on that coolant tube so that it does not move under acceleration and braking. Just to avoid it contacting that pulley
Yea I was looking for somewhere to install a P clip, might need to fabricate a bit of a standoff from the firewall.
Wow, what a beautiful engine! I can't wait to see it in action at a track or drag strip!!!
For that replacement pulley, I am wondering if the kit was designed for someone using a junk yard motor so they included a new pulley to replace the older, possibly worn pulley. Keep the one you took off as a spare.
I agree with all of your adjustments on the cooling tubes and the fuel system.
My only concern with that oil pan (under the assumption it will sit between this frame rails and not drop down though them) is how much those engine mounts will listen with age. When Regina there is of course some flex to the engine. While those mounts look quite rigid, every engine I have ever seen and worked on twists at least an inch or two when you hit the throttle. So you may need to narrow that oil pan.
Love your work. Keep the videos coming.
Thanks for the feedback. Yes, the oil pan is a bit of a concern. Going to see if I can find out what other builders have done for this kit in particular.
Lovely project. Inspiring.
Oil cooler vertical mounts.. Look at using bull bar tubular mounts used for spotlights
Interesting idea! Will keep that in mind.
The AC belt is pretty easy to put on, get the belt around the compressor and started on the main crank pulley. Where it's fully on the crank pulley put a huge ziptie on it to hold it to the crank pulley and then rotate the crank like putting a popped chain back on the bike. And for anyone wondering....that is from the Ford installation manual.
I did see that in the installation guide. I just didn't want to be fitting, removing and refitting too many times.
I can’t wait to see it drive
Amazing work. I don't see anything more recent. Re: ECU. keep it away from the exhaust system. Heat is not good for it.
What was your final solution for the sump
Aren’t those two remote oil filter adapters somewhat redundant? Seems like you can just use the silver one and run one hose out and one hose back.
G'day Scott, I have considered that. I like the thermostatic controller on the cooler plate, so the oil only diverts to the cooler once the engine/oil reaches temperature. How important that is on a Gen 3 Coyote, I don't know... I guess it didn't have that setup from factory...
Nice work Dan. Love this build.
Thanks David!
Nice one Dan 👍
Love this built Dan, i been following your built since you start it bro, thank you for sharing... thumb's up and have a nice day 😉👍
Thanks Dany! Appreciate the support and glad you are enjoying the build series.
I hope all those parts being fitted to the engine
was only a rough fit as I never saw a torque wrench being used.
G'day Dino, yes, just a test fit for now to check clearances. I will use locktite and torque them to spec as part of final install.
At 29:26 you have the remote oil filter sat below the mounting points for the "rear sheer plate: why not utilize at least one of those holes as a mounting point? you would have to be very lucky to have both line up exactly. but will cut down on drilling?? Enjoying the build... always wanted to do it... but no ability to register a kit car where i am.
I was hoping the bracket might line up with both bolts, but unfortunately not. I was actually thinking of lowering the filter bracket just below the shear plate, so its just bolted to the internal wall of the sill.
Did you ever sort out the intake manifold? (Watched all 30+ videos - NICE!!!)
You could add a linkage to the fuel shutoff, maybe a cable push-pull.
Thanks for the suggestion Larry!
Great progress Dan. I hope you never have to replace either of the serpentine belts when the car is running
Thanks Peter. Me too! It will be a bit of hassle, although there will be some access through the removable panel on the firewall, it will certainly be awkward!
Great progress mate, the bung would have heat distorted the shape, just pop a tap and clean the threads ;)
When the engine is in it looks like the sump would sit above the chassis?
the bottom of the sump is level with the underside of the chassis rails.
Might I suggest if you are going to all the trouble that you use oetiker hose clamps and knipex 10 99 i220?
Thanks for the suggestion, I'll have a look into them.
Awesome build, you have earned a new subscriber Sir
Thanks Sean, appreciate the support!
great progress! I would install your brake pressure switch in front with the master cylinder. And are you sure your oil pan will not clear? Because in reality, it sits higher up than what you tried it... Can't you install the ECU to the access panel?
Oil pan definitely doesn't fit. The bottom of the pan will basically finish level with the bottom of the chassis rail.
ECU will most likely be mounted on rear wall inside cab.
You could run a L bracket for the fuel pressure regulator mounted to the bottom of that brace with the leg pointing down.
I did consider something similar, will keep that as an option if I can't mount it on the firewall anywhere.
Awesome as always, Dan. Thanks for keeping consistent progress and sharing all the details with us. Cheers
My pleasure!
Do you need to run both the remote oil filter take-off, and the sandwich plate to the oil cooler? Cant you just run the remote filter to the cooler, in series, and then back to the take-off? Would give you more clearance, and less stuff to go wrong. From what I've seen, the sandwich plates are often a leak point.
Interesting that you raise this as I was considering possibly moving the cooler take-off plate to the remote filter bracket to save on clearance under the engine. I like the idea of the cooler plate as it has a thermostatic controller, so will only divert oil to the cooler once it reaches temperature.
Think again that oilfilter place. I think it will be in too hot place so near that exhaust system pipes
That has played on my mind a little bit, but I don't think it would be any worse that the stock arrangement/fitting location on a Mustang...
Are they not tapper fitted bungs? You may be able to get a tapered tap and enlarge the bung tap so that they screw in further. Will the pan fit if the bungs are removed entirely?
I never ended up checking that... In theory I think it will, as long as the engine/oil pan is centred over chassis rails and not offset to one side, as there won't be a lot of tolerance. Might check that out this weekend!
Great progress so far. Can’t you replace the intake by an Coyote ITB kit? It will save a lot of space at the front and back of the engine.
Ultimately, that's what I want to do, but for ease of engineering and registration, I need to keep the stock intake for emissions purposes.
Hi Dan, When the engine is installed do the oil pan bungs sit below the chassis rail? If yes, remove the bungs when installing the engine and install the bungs post installation.
G'day Gary, I did look at that after I installed the engine. Took a few measurements and the bottom of the sump will sit in line with bottom of the chassis rail, so will need to do a bung delete.
Are you going to run a Fumoto drain plug?
Was not aware of them! Thanks for bringing to my attention. Will look to see if they will be of any benefit.
When II see the engine in the chassis and no clearance up front, it makes me wonder if the transmissions adapter plate is supposed to be bolted to the backside of the chassis tray and not in front of it.
Its definitely designed to sit on the front side (based on manufacturers guidance). I've looked into this a bit, seems to be driven by the Graziano transaxle, as its quite a large transaxle and even as is, it will stick out the back a bit and require the rear clip to be trimmed to accommodate, so you couldn't really mount it any further back. I've also notice the adapter plate seems to be a lot thicker on mine than what the photos show in their build manual for what I assume is the Porsche transaxle setup. All likely contributing factors.
@@BuiltbyDan I saw the thinner adapter plate on one of their site photos, too. Thickness is determined by input shaft, and throw-out bearing position in the bell housing. You might be able to source a thinner bearing or a shorter shaft and then mill down the plate. A lot of extra work for maybe 10mm. I also saw in their pic that the top support plate was carved out for the intake, as you were suspecting.
Awesome job, how did you weld the chassis, is it aluminum?, I had a car built and mines was glued, and it's a aluminum chassis
Thank you! I purchased the chassis, I didn't fabricate it myself, but it is all TIG welded aluminium.
When you order one of these kits, do you have to specify what motor?
G'day Mark, yes motor and transaxle had to be specified at time of order. Depending on the kit and the different stages it can be purchased in there may be an ability to decide at a later point, but for mine, because I ordered the complete kit up front, I had to specify both so they could fabricate the chassis, engine mounts and transaxle adapter plate to suit.
That oil filter remote kit is very close. Why don't you just run the AN lines from that through the oil cooler and to the other end and get rid of the sandwich plate?
I hadn't really thought of that, was focussed on the benefit(?) of the thermostatically controlled valve that will only divert oil to the cooler once it reaches temp... but I guess the stock engine doesn't require it, so might need to look at whether it provides any real benefit.
@@BuiltbyDan oh it has a thermostat, interesting... Does that mean you have to warm the engine up to change the oil with that in? The one I have is just a sandwich plate, no thermostat but no remote oil filter.
Not entirely sure about the oil change process, but you're probably right, as will need the thermostat to open to drain any oil sitting in the cooler lines...
It seems like the company that you bought your kit from does things just good enough . It's pretty hard to find a company that actually goes above and beyond to provide better than just good enough . I imagine that's why there's so many recalls in the automotive industry . If 10 is good enough , then make it 20 for good measure .
Be very careful when you plumb the remote oil filter, I have seen 2 recent builds where they were plumed backward with catastrophic results
Also make sure any hoses don’t collapse under vacuum. Had a mate loose an engine when it sucked the dry sump link flat. Starved the engine of oil as a result.
Thanks for the advice! They are both labelled in and out, so I hope I get it right!
I look at it, Ford Godzilla 7.3L V8 | Harro Supercharger in
pressing
They are not cheap but how about DrySump rather than conventional?
Yea the cost is what deterred me in the first place. I still think I'll be able to get the conventional pan to work for much cheaper!
Has this engine ever been installed in a GT 40.
G'day Robert, yes, there are a few examples that are running the Coyote engine in different GT40 kits. I'm not sure if there is one running in this particular kit yet.
I increased the volume because of your low voice at the start then banged with your loud intro music, this should improve man.
wy not A 5.2L V8 FORD VOODOO ENGINE
I actually looked at the 7.3L Godzilla, but at the time there wasn't a lot of support for it. I should have waited a few more months as it didn't take long for a bunch of aftermarket components to hit the market!
Do you want me to bring my dashboard over to sit in place and give you another reference?
Might have been handy last weekend 😆
Quelle idée de monter un moteur sans ses accessoires avant de monter les périphériques comme s'il y avait de la place. Résultat ça touche et encore tout n'est pas encore monté 😂😂😂. Vous auriez dû le positionner de l'autre côté des équerres où se fixe l'entretoise pour gagner les quelques centimètres nécessaires. C'est un montage de prototype et rien ne va jamais, il faut monter et démonter 100 fois avant de placer les éléments et je ne connais pas votre métier, mais vous ne semblez pas avoir les compétences requises !
Dan, where did you get your GT40 kit and what did it cost including shipping?
G'day, the kit is from Absolute Pace in Queensland Australia. There's a link to their website in the video description. Complete kit (all 3 stages) was around AUS100k (approx. USD70k). Shipping will depend on where you are located (I think it cost me approx. AUD5k including the timber shipping crate).
👍