Thanks, I have started to get back into bicycling & bike repairing, I was getting ready to update my tools. I have a few old (1980's) park tool they are decent.
Glad someone called out these aluminum tools. I have a couple of Abbey tools that have been better than I expected ( chain tool and dag tool ) but can't believe who thought alloy spline tools would be a good idea.
Milwaukee M12 3/8" Stubby impact wrench & rotary tool. The former for stubborn crank arms and the latter to remove burrs, scuffs & scratches from parts, clean out old rims and smooth out new cable housing ends. Also a drill to drill out seized bolts. I don't often need power tools to work on my bike but when I do, I do.
I own both IceToolz lockring socket adapters (QR and TA) and they are amazing! I prefer them over the Park Tool equivalents which are collecting dust now.
My garage definitely needs an Ultegra Classic groupset - all shiny silver please. I have a number of handcrafted steel and titanium beauties from IF, Ritchey, Soulcraft, Strawberry and Landshark - all needing me to stockpile old King hubs and 7700 and 7800 group sets - if I could buy something new rather than having to buy used junk off eBay at massively inflated prices I would be a happy old man - ;) Thanks for these videos - as a Cytech qualified journeyman mechanic now living in Portland, Oregon you make me feel like I still know what’s going on in the UK.
A bit late to the game with this vid, but still want to write that I am a former professional bike mechanic and agree with precisely and absolutely everything what was said about the bottom bracket tools. I do not understand this trend of late years to move towards aluminium especially in tools for threaded bb's or PT's obsession with the 3/8" ratchet size standard - durability and ability to deliver significant torque trump by far things like anodised colour coding, weight or basically anything else.
Not sure if anyone else has tried them; the Unior spline BB tool is really good, it's 1/2" drive & can taken a hammering of a impact wrench as well. The Unior Hyperglide cassette tools are good as well
I once had to completely destroy a BB from a dura ace BB7700 RHD side BSA by knocking the steel bearing ring out and then having to saw out and colapse the remaining cup left over in the frame. Because the alluminium cup in the Klein frame had welded itself in, thanks to some genius mechanic who did'nt assemble it with anti grip copper paste, lithium grease, or some other paste! Plus shimano used to put a dab of white threadlock on those cups......and there you go, corrosion did the rest.
Anti seize for non similar materials, grease for same material. Eg, alu frame, alu bb use grease. Steal frame, alu BB use anti seize. However, manufacturers docs trump everything. Do as they say! Reason is that any plastic or rubber parts will get affected by choice of grease.
You are right about some of the Park tools, they do look like a bicycle mechanics tool not an engineering workshop tool 😀 Relatively new modern cycle specific tools, I got a few Parktool bottom bracket and cassette wrenches, overlooking the Icetoolz that was cheaper too. On using the park cassette wrench to remove a stubborn lock ring the limitations were evident, the machines splines are too weak they do have a notch where the load was taken. Have got the Icetoolz wrenches, because the park will fail pretty soon. Icetoolz cone wrench and pedal wrenches are also made up from pretty good quality tool steel compared to Parktools, which are wearing out too fast for my comfort. Wera and Knipex are leaders !
I usually hold my Super B TB-1005 Bottom Bracket Removal Tool 1/2" Drive/32mm secure to stop slippage using a quick release skewer then tighten/loosen with a big 32mm spanner. I always put plenty of Finish Line Anti-Seize on the bb threads. Find Token/Praxis bb's inexpensive and last well. When bearings are worn I change bearings in the cups using the simple and easy to use HTT178 Hope Bottom Bracket Bearing Tool.
Salute! Found mine on ebay. Roughly $30 delivered. Watching this also reminded me of the cassete tool with 12mm pin! I just found an overpriced one from pedros that has a pin for QR with a 12mm magnetic pin to go over it. Seeing as i have both types of bikes this should work great!
I have a lot of time for IceToolz, with a good few of their range in my mobile workshop kit. My workshop P-handle hex keys are 12-year old IceToolz set, still going strong after a lot of use. I'm with you on Park Tool - some good, some not so good tools these days.
Knipex for anything pliers related including cable cutters. I use the 4-sided cable ferrule crimps for doing a neat job of putting on cable ends rather than bodging with needle-noses or side cutters. Wera or similar for screwdrivers, sockets, hex keys, torx keys etc. Wera or Norbar for torque tools Bondhus t-handles are lovely in both ball and straight hex end, and Beta do some nice slide-handle t-wrenches that don't have the gimmick 'spinner' thing Park ones have. Vessel screwdrivers for JIS cross-head screws on Japanese products like older Shimano limit screws. Park are good for some stuff, but always worth looking at Unior or others too.
@@Mapdec probably teaching you to suck eggs given I am a self-taught amateur :-) Your 'Park arent always best' thoughts really struck home with me, there is so much alternative stuff out there. One thing I would love is a disk brake mount facing tool that can do flat mount but they all seem to be silly money. Any more buget recomendations? VAR and Park are beyond what I would pay as a home gamer.
@@paulsymons562 they are the only ones as far as I know. Apparently icetoolz do one, but only ever seen pics. There is no point owning one. Once it’s done it’s done and bike shop should have sorted before you took ownership anyway.
@@Mapdec true. I normally order frames and build them up myself, luckily my local guys will do the job for me if I ask nicely. Thats what finally sorted the brake rub on my Kinesis GF Ti. The tool is just sooooo shiny and lovely though :-) mmmmm shiny!
With you 100% on the use of Knipex, Wera, etc, i.e. no bike branded tools for workshop essentials. I've also started replacing my Park Tool BB tools with those from Icetoolz. I've never understood the use of the 3/8" drive, especially as most bigger ratchets and torque wrenchs, my choice for anything over 15nm is from Gedore, use 1/2" drives One essential addition for me when working on square taper bottom brackets, e.g. Shimano UN300, is the Pedros socket holder. This nicely secures the tool to the BB to prevent any slippage but does mean using a wrench instead of a ratchet or breaker bar. I've a big old 24mm Stahlwille spanner used exclusively for this job. Park Tool have kinda copied this idea but I'll stick with rhe Pedros tools ad I won't be buying more Park Tools moving forwards
sir you seem to know a lot lot. Im thinking of starting a bike service shop. Which BB tools would you recomend? Im looking definitely at having EP8 bikes and other current wMTB platforms. along with normal bikes aswell....
I love seeing opinions on tools by an actual pro. I'm a bit of a home mechanic and a lot of content creators are Park Tools sponsored, so of course they'll recommend Park Tools everything. I know buying Park Tools is rarely a bad decision (for a home mechanic at least), but I'm really interested in what really gets shop usage. I really don't care about spending a lot on tools if I'm getting quality stuff. Nothing is more frustrating than having crap tools break down on you, or worse, damage your bike. I'd love to see your opinion on brake bleeding tools. I bought the official Shimano stuff, but boy do I feel like I've been taken for a ride. I didn't want to risk damaging my levers with cheap Amazon stuff and the Park Tool kits are just too expensive for the number of times I'm doing brake bleeds. I bought the IceToolz lock ring socket because the Park Tools ones were either out of stock or being scalped on Amazon. Glad I lucked on the good brand!
With bleed kits stick to genuine brand at pro level. The new Shimano pro bleed kit is good. 2 cups with different threads and syringes with port guide. For sram the hard plastic pro bleed is best. The park kit is landfill. Just leaks everywhere
I'd also upvote the icetools product. I have a pedal wrench that's lasted for decades. Used some of the BB sockets and misc at the shop back in the day, all good. They make a really nice shimano hollowtech BB preload tool, way over the top but is just so nice 🤣
For any high torque applications, I swear by my Cyclus Snap-In system. For bottom brackets and cassettes it the system allows you to thread or pass through an attachment that let's you place a counter force on the tool that holds it in place and keeps you from stripping anything. The tool adapters are high quality steel and fit just about everything. BTW, Park started providing attachments for their new BB tools, but they are not nearly as versatile as the Cyclus system.
@@barryplank6766 Sure, but the Snap-In system is extremely expensive even for a bike shop. Basically, if the tool is made of decent steel and, when required, has at least one contact point for a generic tool to apply proper lever, it's good enough for a bike shop.
We had an Abbey Dub tool that lasted for 2 uses before it stripped. While the tools looks nice, we've had too many fail way too early for the price that they charge.
A little birdie says expect 12 speed GRX announcements around March. Builds+specs for 2023 bikes with 12 speed GRX have been leaked, as well as some RX820 components appearing on Shimano's online pdf manuals.
Thanks for your quick little input about breaker bars. I was really leaning towards using one for a bb overhaul but I think I’ll pass. I noticed that the bbt 22 is quite floppy on the drive
Another great video, I’ve learned so much and got a little more confidence to do a few bits and bobs on my bikes. I’d like to attempt changing the bearings on my Campag Power Torque but the Park Tool puller is so expensive I may end up bringing it to you instead.
Great video! I second the IceToolz stuff. I us there Hollowtech BB tool and the casette ones. I have my eyes on the Hambini threaded one, as I run he's threaded BSA BB, which has a bigger OD, so can't use the IceToolz one. My current option is the Part Tool BB removal tool, but the fit is terrible, resulting in me scratching it :(
I worked as a bike mechanic at quite a well known company and had access to a lot of tools. Definitely agree, Park Tools hex keys aren't great, Wera are excellent. The only thing stopping Bondhus keys being as good as Wera is the lack of a key on the handle end.
Florida is the flattest State in the US. I live in the Second flattest State in the US. The only hills I see are leftover glacial moraines. Before I got old and out of shape, I could ride all day, big ringing a 12-23. As for bottom bracket tools, 10 years, or so ago, I gave away the tools for early 80's bottom brackets. The only ones I still have are for mid 90's Campy, Shimano Octalink (Ultegra and Dura Ace----Yes, I still have a 7700 bottom bracket on my TT bike), and the modern Shimano type.
I bought some Cyclus tools over the years. Yes, I have lots of Park stuff and most is good, but for things as a home mechanic, I dont need a drop out checker, headset press or bottom bracket thread chaser by Park , to which I have to remortgage. Cyclus are quite agricultural in quality , which is fine, they havent broken or done anything wrong and for the use of maybe once or twice a year , is ideal. I am looking out for a new workstand and have a Minoura 3000 ( I think) which is tired, but the Park ones are crazy and cant believe they will offer anymore than another manufacturer. I also have a 'flock' of bottom bracket tools, including Royce, Hope and others, but as a rule, I just get HT2 BB's now. Same Park spanner ( with the HT2 wheelie on the other end) . You dont need to torque, if you got the feel to how tight to do it. As to using the big guns for removing clients BB's that crazy. When I buy a new bike, I strip back to a frame and pack the headset with thick marine grease , even if I remove the bearing seals , but always make sure the bottom bracket is well greased in the threads to prevent seizure and future issues. You mention Tiagra groupsets, which my winter road bike has a full groupo. The only thing that lasted 10 minutes was the bottom bracket and was as water tight as a tea bag. A replacement Ultegra one and all has been happy since.
Sadly BBs installed at factory are rarely installed well. Either packed with cheap lithium grease or none at all. As for ‘No need to torque’.. that’s ok for home use, but as professionals we do things correct and warranty our work. If your own work fails it’s your responsibility, if we get it wrong oh boy it’s a problem.
@@Mapdec I always use Phil Wood grease for bottom bracket and wheel bearings and agree with the cheap lithium grease being poor, non-existent but cheap. My GXP bottom bracket was almost dry on the non- drive side after 300 miles and you could feel it. I have seen bottom brackets installed by a local bike shop ( dont exist anymore !) and decided with the hamfisted and poor installation , as an engineer by trade, I would never cross their palms with silver and never have done with any bikes since . Better have a word with Mr Hambini with regards to torquing threaded bottom brackets and put the Park spanner away :). Over the years, I have only had one undo which was the Hope Ti square taper , but recognise the need to torque and check for a customers bike.
Check out Bikehand brand tools too. I like their YC-29BB. Made of heavy cast steel. 1/2" drive with 1" hex socket outer as well. Knurled outer surface to enable you to drive the threads in by hand first for engagement.
Brilliant video! I started using IceToolz for a decade now, strong & simple. 9/10 Speed - Classic 1. I still use a triple 9sp Ultegra Swiss designed bike, a 9 Speed Dura Ace Principia, & a 10 Speed SramForce that was lighter than the Dura Ace back in 2010 (on a R3 Addict). We definitely need: Chain rings Rear & Front Derailing parts Cassettes It’s an unfair waste to cancel production when there are millions of customers like myself with multiple bikes. 11 Speed vs 12sp?!?! 2. I do like the range in the new SRAM eTap, but if I am honest my di2 Ultegra 11 speed still is butter smooth. I still don’t feel a 12 speed inflated prices system has become a better climber. Cost Rise/Weights Rise! I remain shocked by the high weights of all the groupsets vs a decade plus ago. 3. Rim vs Disc! Fat Shaming! NB: rim should continue, it’s perfect for rolling hills & Switzerland where I rode them over decades. My lightest disc bike is a handmade de rose with a purposely chose Ultegra mechanical build to keep the weight low. New bikes are getting lame fat, eg the trek notably had to be put on a diet & still is astronomical in weight & prices! Summary: at some point, the manufacturers have lost a lot of my cycling club who would have been adding to their collection. Instead they make their older bikes last longer & cannot conceive forking out £6k for an electronic fat groupset albeit loving the new more aero shapes. Is there Snobbery?!?!/:- Final thought: my non aero R3 Addict, lightweight 6.34kg build is still brilliant today on club rides as it was back in 2011. It’s used into winter!
I'm a bike mechanic and found this really interesting with regard to the use of Ice toolz. I have the Park Tool BB removal tools and, like you, have found them unsatisfactory on some many occasions, I never really considered the Ice toolz ones before but will definitely give them a go now. As for Abbey Tools, I have the Shimano Cassette removal tool and find it to be a brilliant bit of kit. It is holding up really well and is a solid bit of kit. They are pricey though.
@@Mapdec Do you mean the HAG?, I don't have that but it does look a good bit of kit. I have the old Park tool HAG and find it a pain as the alignment rod doesn't fold down when you want to move it around the rim, unlike the new model which does.
Elvedes make a great outer cable 'prick' tool which makes for very clean running inner cables. They also make an excellent end ferrule crimp tool. Tobe tools make a great little T handle holder tool for chainring bolts. I've quite a few original Shimano BB tools which are high quality but expensive. I've got all the Park Alu ones as well, and wondered why their fit never seemed so great. Good video
I got a bit unlucky with one of the Abbey tools, Abbey Bike Tools Geiszler Truing Stand Adaptor, it was banged up from the factory, I know it was from factory as it was inside a sealed bag. one of the knob were knocked, but not a big deal. Did not bother returning it as i needed it. much better product than the massive, oversized, huge and heavy Park Tool adapter, long, big rod, heavy, and had adaptor cones. It did not make any sense to me. I managed to damage the threads, possibly bend the rod.
I have rotor alduh cranks and they are wonderfully versatile as you can swap out the axlesto suityour bb. I personally am happy at 11sp and don't feel the need of anything else. But I do like electronic otherwise I'd be looking at the Chinese options right now. Di2 is my choice but also like the idea of fully wireless too. I'll keep buying it S/H di2 kit for the time being. Also happy to stick with PF BB's 5 bikes and no creaks so keep my tool kit simple yet frustratingly large. Also I Kind of love buying new tools so always happy to 'invest' in new ones. 😁 Loving these daily "chats", just wish you guys were more local to me. I'll wave as I head back from Glasgow to Cardiff on Sunday. 🤣🤣🤣
I would imagine the aluminum tools are good for race mechanics and their luggage. They cant afford to carry steel around, grams start to add up to kilos real quick. It looks like they counting on the fact these bikes are brand new and been looked after more than a princess.
@@Mapdec I have Abbey Tools Crombie Tool - Dual Sided Steel/standarrd cassette lock ring tool, No issues with it, but wore off some of the logo. Abbey Tools is not always available, on their site it can often be out of stock, at least this year. A lot of their tools were out of stock in Norway. The Standard has held up well, used it for years, even with stuck lock ring, which I could not get loose. Welds are great, quality product. What the some of description says: ''The STANDARD version comes with a solid handle which gives the tool some mass making it the preferred choice in the shop. '' -''The SUPER LIGHT version shaves 125 grams out of the handle and are meant for working on well maintained bikes. The SL's are not suitable for use on bikes that have over torqued or seized lock rings. If you are working in a shop or just don't need to travel with your tools we strongly suggest that you go with our standard solid handle tools.''
As home mechanic I have great experience with Topeak tools (Taiwan brand). I think Ice tools are copy of Shimano (Pro) tools. I have chain checker from them but throwing it out soon because it only shows 1,0 and 0,75 marks (not enough any more).
One of the nice things I see in the Ice Tools is they've labelled them. Shame it's with obscure codes. I've got a wide variety of BB & cassette tools, too, from various manufacturers. Hardest thing is working out which one I need for a given job - they all look pretty much the same, but are subtly different. Don't use any of them enough to have broken them, though. And a long arm breaker bar: pretty much a workshop essential for taking things apart.
I think a late 80s chorus (that can index!) Would be sweet. Campy is loosing market share and could fill the niche. Maybe SR could re-imagine a superbepro. Shimano offerings always come off as industrial with boring finishes.
As you mention in the beining of the video. The "Classic" groupset will be awesome. Sometimes if i do period corect or Neo-retro bikes (i own few of them) it's a challenge to collect parts to do it. In general.. silver parts are quite rare. For a while, majority of componets are black, so once i totaly disasebled every part in groupset and remove the paint and polish it to silver finish.. more silver options will be better. I know it is only a color, but when building a bike which have to look certain way.. With black groupset it don't look correct. one of my neo-retro bikes is rare vintage favorit (colubus tubing, forged dropouts, ITA BB) and i even buld wheels for it and mirror polish originaly black rims and hubs.
@@Mapdec I have soft heart for this kind of things, also the classic cars like for example Jaguar E Type, Citroen DS, SM etc.. The vintage bike i've written about is head turner. few times somebody taken pictures of this bike when i stoped on a trip. also.. complete Dura ace 7400 is rare to see
People in the bike media REALLY need to start pushing back against all this pointless incompatible tooling, it’s making even trivial maintenance a real pain, as the research required to work out what random hub or bracket your bike comes with is taking days
Hi, great information. I am having trouble with choosing a socket for a Wheels Manufacturing T47 with inboard bearings. It needs to be 48.5mm (outer BB dimensions). Really tough to find this. Thanks much
Unior is another alternative for good quality no fuss tools, but I think they are slightly pricer than the icetools. Not sure if that due to eu imports or greater popularity :)
Yes. They are starting to make their BB tools from steel now. They haven’t got quite the range yet. We use a lot of Unior tools. Those work stands are Unior.
Hope you still read this... for the time frozen groupset: In IT there is "LTS"-Versions as in "Long Time Support". I believe if Shimano would offer Dura Ace, Ultegra, 105 and a 105 LTS-Version, that might be a bit more expensive, a bit less fancy and highest tech, but rather proven... and Shimano would garantee 10 years of spares for that one - I know what would be the new "groupset of the people"... Since I cant see Shimano or anyone doing this I believe this might be an entrypoint for other players in the market.... Only think I completely don't see: I don't think an LTS-Groupset has to be 11s... loads of people around here are looking for parts for there 9s Bikes... Shimano DA 7700 was a unbelievable groupset. Still an amazing ride... And to get used derailleurs, brakes, etc around here is actually possible - but not as cheap as you would think 25 year old used parts should be
Hello all. I have a bike with a M48 Bottom Bracket. I want to upgrade my drive train to shimano xt. The xt BB is obviously smaller so I’m wondering if they make some type of thread in step down or if another option is available?
I used a 1/2" impact wrench once to free a stuck pedal. The left crank fastened into a massive vice on an even more massive table. With the wrench in reverse anti clockwise and my son pulling an open end wrench the same direction nothing happened. I unscrewed the pedal body and changed from road Shimano to M -540 Shimano. Problem solved! I have the square taper Shimano tool and the one for Phil Wood. Too bad GXP bottom brackets were a dud and the Shimano track bb isn't that great either. Campagnolo and Sugino are the ones left that last in regular road use, and Phil. Not much use for gears or brakes around here. The front rim is still anodized despite the unused front brake. 8000 miles on that one and the computer wasn't on the bike till the next year. Junky tight VP knockoff UN-55 still tight and rough. Even a poor square taper bb is durable! This bb mashup was not needed. Great for the manufacturer, not good for the consumer or mechanic.
Thanks for the icetoolz recommendation, I have always found Park Tools overpriced. As for aluminium tools, I wouldn't entertain them, even for a home mechanic, who uses them occasionally a big NO, they may look nice with a coloured anodized finish, but chocolate teapot in my opinion.... As for bottom bracket tools that need lots of extensions on, they just want to disengage from the bottom bracket splines with the extra distance away from pivot point, so another big No from me. I have found the ring spanner type good, if they are steel and have put a large washer and bolt through, so you don't have to physically hold the spanner in place, just concentrate on undoing. Obviously if very tight I use a length of steel tube as an extension👍
In the video it refers to M097 as being correct for 386evo bbs. Is that correct? My 386evo is 49mm diameter and 16 notches? If M097 is not correct, what is the correct tool please?
Wow, didn't realise that the BB standardisation went further than just sizing. Why so many different types of fittings? Especially Shimano, why change the type of removal system for each high end model? Surely one brand, one removal system, is bad enough as it is!
I just purchased a Topeak DX wrench. It goes up to 10 Nm and it has digital display and audible alarm. It was almost 200 bucks but worth the investment in the long run because I had no idea I was either under/over torquing bits and pieces around my bikes, especially the carbon stuff.
Umm… wera, but they are very expensive and overkill for most. They also take ages to adjust and expensive to recalibrate. For most home mechanics I would recommend a cheap M part, replace it rather than recalibrate and use good quality bits rather than the poor ones they come with. Topeak also have kit at mid range.
Take a look at the Pro Bike Tool 1/4-inch Torque Wrench. I've put mine through shop duty since October 2020 and is still holding up. If it can handle shop duty, it surely can handle home mechanic duty. I have a Prestacycle preset torque wrench (5 Nm) on the way as this is my most frequently used torque spec. Sometimes it's a chore to take my torque wrench out to do a quick cockpit check, so having this little guy with me at all times can help speed things up.
@@Mapdec The Park Tool ones are not perfect, the small one came with an bit adaptor, it falls off now, almost no grip to the torque wrench, it was loose when it was new, wobbly, a lot of play, but got worse now. The torque wrench has play. So if I use the original bit adapter I it drops on the floor, if I spin the torque wrench with my finger, it drops on the floor, so then it's best to use a L shaped hex if working on rear axle.But I have a Jonesway bit adapter which has better tolerances, So I will be using that. but both can be tricky to remove from the bit, so sometimes I use pliers.
What I have learned from tool-centric TH-cam channels is that forged tools are much stronger and better than CNC. It is no wonder why Park's BB tools fail easily.
*forged and CNC'd steel is stronger than forged and CNC'd Aluminum both steel and aluminum stock used for these tools are forged, but their material hardness is different
I take it you won’t be selling any bike that has a proprietary seat post and bar and stem combination as there were perfectly good seat pot and headset standards.
@@Mapdec I posted this in the wrong video it should have been in the I’m done with rimbrake one. But thinking about it gravel should have been the saviour of bike standards. We should have got behind a modern bike with threaded bb, a 27.2 mm round seat post, standard round fork steerer and cables not routed through the steerer. There is no need for aero gravel and the public and you tubers should have been sensible to show the manufacturers what we wanted.
Hi mapdec? Didnt get your name yet... Ive been watching yr videos and theyr really informatives/educational 😁 And the point that i would like to mention, at least in this vídeo, iis that you just talk about Shimano groupsets, and nothing about the Campagnolo...or sram. I say this just because a lot of people hás them and even Ride both groupsets. Thanks and keep up with good videos
Thanks. Name is Paul. Just doing vids as things are relevant. There are vids on Campagnolo and sram but they have done their updates for a while. We are all waiting for the big S to make their moves.
I agree that Park Tools aren't as good as they were, Allen keys are made of cheese. I have used Cyclo tools with varying degrees of success, the cone spanners are useless. Why tools for tough, repetitive jobs are made from aluminium is beyond me.
the Press Fit BBs can't be serviced, they are plastic, and if you try to remove the cover/adapter, you will destroy it, even knocking it out, you might ruin it. so if it seizes you have to spray with DW40 or Muc Off m94 or similar. I had to do that on a friends bike, one side had crazy drag, felt like it was rotating in very sticky thick honey. At least I got it spinning with M94 spray.But they seem to stay good for a while, no become a greasy mess.
Thank you for the content. But Dude, you talk for the first half of the video before getting anywhere near the topic of BBs. If you want viewers, maybe start with clear specifics of the topic people are searching for and finish with the broader commentary.
Please, stay on topic when recording your videos. It took you almost 5 minutes to get to the topic and it's a mere 13-minutes video. Clearly, you don't value your viewer's time.
@@Mapdec your video title literally says "Bottom bracket tools for when you really gotta wrench!". Instead of bottom bracket tools content I am listening a lection on cycling on flats in Florida and next generation Shimano Tiagra which hasn't been neither announced, nor leaked. If you can't stay on topic, at least include timecode to cut to the chase.
i really really enjoy these daily videos where you give your opinion on standards and bike bits and i hope they don't end after the WC
They might slow down and get better quality. I’m not sure yet. Thanks so much for the feedback.
Very interesting for me, a person that knows nothing about your industry but likes to learn. Thank you.
Thanks, I have started to get back into bicycling & bike repairing, I was getting ready to update my tools. I have a few old (1980's) park tool they are decent.
Glad someone called out these aluminum tools. I have a couple of Abbey tools that have been better than I expected ( chain tool and dag tool ) but can't believe who thought alloy spline tools would be a good idea.
No one company makes the best of every tool is what I live by.
Very true
Love the daily videos from you. Refreshing getting an unbiased opinion to educate us. Thanks.
Thank you Mario
Milwaukee M12 3/8" Stubby impact wrench & rotary tool. The former for stubborn crank arms and the latter to remove burrs, scuffs & scratches from parts, clean out old rims and smooth out new cable housing ends. Also a drill to drill out seized bolts. I don't often need power tools to work on my bike but when I do, I do.
I own both IceToolz lockring socket adapters (QR and TA) and they are amazing! I prefer them over the Park Tool equivalents which are collecting dust now.
My garage definitely needs an Ultegra Classic groupset - all shiny silver please.
I have a number of handcrafted steel and titanium beauties from IF, Ritchey, Soulcraft, Strawberry and Landshark - all needing me to stockpile old King hubs and 7700 and 7800 group sets - if I could buy something new rather than having to buy used junk off eBay at massively inflated prices I would be a happy old man - ;)
Thanks for these videos - as a Cytech qualified journeyman mechanic now living in Portland, Oregon you make me feel like I still know what’s going on in the UK.
I am a big fan of Pedros tools, fantastic quality from my experience
Pedros do great cone spanner.
@@Mapdecthey also do a good BB tool that has a sprung bolt holder bit on it.
A bit late to the game with this vid, but still want to write that I am a former professional bike mechanic and agree with precisely and absolutely everything what was said about the bottom bracket tools. I do not understand this trend of late years to move towards aluminium especially in tools for threaded bb's or PT's obsession with the 3/8" ratchet size standard - durability and ability to deliver significant torque trump by far things like anodised colour coding, weight or basically anything else.
Thank you
Hello from New York! Love the content👍
Thank you.
Not sure if anyone else has tried them; the Unior spline BB tool is really good, it's 1/2" drive & can taken a hammering of a impact wrench as well. The Unior Hyperglide cassette tools are good as well
I like my campy bottom bracket tool that fits the cassette as well
I once had to completely destroy a BB from a dura ace BB7700 RHD side BSA by knocking the steel bearing ring out and then having to saw out and colapse the remaining cup left over in the frame. Because the alluminium cup in the Klein frame had welded itself in, thanks to some genius mechanic who did'nt assemble it with anti grip copper paste, lithium grease, or some other paste! Plus shimano used to put a dab of white threadlock on those cups......and there you go, corrosion did the rest.
I'd say no to copper anti seize on an aluminum frame! Use regular grease.
@@davidburgess741 for any reason?
Anti seize for non similar materials, grease for same material. Eg, alu frame, alu bb use grease. Steal frame, alu BB use anti seize. However, manufacturers docs trump everything. Do as they say! Reason is that any plastic or rubber parts will get affected by choice of grease.
You are right about some of the Park tools, they do look like a bicycle mechanics tool not an engineering workshop tool 😀 Relatively new modern cycle specific tools, I got a few Parktool bottom bracket and cassette wrenches, overlooking the Icetoolz that was cheaper too. On using the park cassette wrench to remove a stubborn lock ring the limitations were evident, the machines splines are too weak they do have a notch where the load was taken. Have got the Icetoolz wrenches, because the park will fail pretty soon. Icetoolz cone wrench and pedal wrenches are also made up from pretty good quality tool steel compared to Parktools, which are wearing out too fast for my comfort. Wera and Knipex are leaders !
I usually hold my Super B TB-1005 Bottom Bracket Removal Tool 1/2" Drive/32mm secure to stop slippage using a quick release skewer then tighten/loosen with a big 32mm spanner. I always put plenty of Finish Line Anti-Seize on the bb threads. Find Token/Praxis bb's inexpensive and last well. When bearings are worn I change bearings in the cups using the simple and easy to use HTT178 Hope Bottom Bracket Bearing Tool.
Salute! Found mine on ebay. Roughly $30 delivered.
Watching this also reminded me of the cassete tool with 12mm pin! I just found an overpriced one from pedros that has a pin for QR with a 12mm magnetic pin to go over it. Seeing as i have both types of bikes this should work great!
I have a lot of time for IceToolz, with a good few of their range in my mobile workshop kit. My workshop P-handle hex keys are 12-year old IceToolz set, still going strong after a lot of use. I'm with you on Park Tool - some good, some not so good tools these days.
Knipex for anything pliers related including cable cutters. I use the 4-sided cable ferrule crimps for doing a neat job of putting on cable ends rather than bodging with needle-noses or side cutters.
Wera or similar for screwdrivers, sockets, hex keys, torx keys etc.
Wera or Norbar for torque tools
Bondhus t-handles are lovely in both ball and straight hex end, and Beta do some nice slide-handle t-wrenches that don't have the gimmick 'spinner' thing Park ones have.
Vessel screwdrivers for JIS cross-head screws on Japanese products like older Shimano limit screws.
Park are good for some stuff, but always worth looking at Unior or others too.
Cool. Thanks for that. We use most of that. Defo love Unior power stands.
@@Mapdec probably teaching you to suck eggs given I am a self-taught amateur :-) Your 'Park arent always best' thoughts really struck home with me, there is so much alternative stuff out there.
One thing I would love is a disk brake mount facing tool that can do flat mount but they all seem to be silly money. Any more buget recomendations? VAR and Park are beyond what I would pay as a home gamer.
@@paulsymons562 they are the only ones as far as I know. Apparently icetoolz do one, but only ever seen pics. There is no point owning one. Once it’s done it’s done and bike shop should have sorted before you took ownership anyway.
@@Mapdec true. I normally order frames and build them up myself, luckily my local guys will do the job for me if I ask nicely. Thats what finally sorted the brake rub on my Kinesis GF Ti. The tool is just sooooo shiny and lovely though :-) mmmmm shiny!
@@paulsymons562 Same here, I do all my own bike mechanics and am a bike tool junkie anyway.
With you 100% on the use of Knipex, Wera, etc, i.e. no bike branded tools for workshop essentials. I've also started replacing my Park Tool BB tools with those from Icetoolz. I've never understood the use of the 3/8" drive, especially as most bigger ratchets and torque wrenchs, my choice for anything over 15nm is from Gedore, use 1/2" drives
One essential addition for me when working on square taper bottom brackets, e.g. Shimano UN300, is the Pedros socket holder. This nicely secures the tool to the BB to prevent any slippage but does mean using a wrench instead of a ratchet or breaker bar. I've a big old 24mm Stahlwille spanner used exclusively for this job. Park Tool have kinda copied this idea but I'll stick with rhe Pedros tools ad I won't be buying more Park Tools moving forwards
Good info Alex. Thanks
Another mention for the Pedro's socket holder, makes it so much easier and protects both your tool and the bottom bracket.
sir you seem to know a lot lot. Im thinking of starting a bike service shop. Which BB tools would you recomend? Im looking definitely at having EP8 bikes and other current wMTB platforms. along with normal bikes aswell....
Great vlog loved it
My first IceToolz socket was for old freewheel removal. I didn't choose that brand, the LBS owner picked it for me.
Hugely useful advice. Agreeing on Park not being the be all and end all of bike tools. Ive been liking Wera a lot lately myself.
Great to hear!
I love seeing opinions on tools by an actual pro. I'm a bit of a home mechanic and a lot of content creators are Park Tools sponsored, so of course they'll recommend Park Tools everything. I know buying Park Tools is rarely a bad decision (for a home mechanic at least), but I'm really interested in what really gets shop usage.
I really don't care about spending a lot on tools if I'm getting quality stuff. Nothing is more frustrating than having crap tools break down on you, or worse, damage your bike.
I'd love to see your opinion on brake bleeding tools. I bought the official Shimano stuff, but boy do I feel like I've been taken for a ride. I didn't want to risk damaging my levers with cheap Amazon stuff and the Park Tool kits are just too expensive for the number of times I'm doing brake bleeds.
I bought the IceToolz lock ring socket because the Park Tools ones were either out of stock or being scalped on Amazon. Glad I lucked on the good brand!
With bleed kits stick to genuine brand at pro level. The new Shimano pro bleed kit is good. 2 cups with different threads and syringes with port guide. For sram the hard plastic pro bleed is best. The park kit is landfill. Just leaks everywhere
I've had good luck with Ice Toolz - I've got the splined BB tool, the cassette removal tool and a few other bits and pieces.
Good to know!
I'd also upvote the icetools product. I have a pedal wrench that's lasted for decades. Used some of the BB sockets and misc at the shop back in the day, all good.
They make a really nice shimano hollowtech BB preload tool, way over the top but is just so nice 🤣
For any high torque applications, I swear by my Cyclus Snap-In system. For bottom brackets and cassettes it the system allows you to thread or pass through an attachment that let's you place a counter force on the tool that holds it in place and keeps you from stripping anything. The tool adapters are high quality steel and fit just about everything. BTW, Park started providing attachments for their new BB tools, but they are not nearly as versatile as the Cyclus system.
I second cyclus for bottom bracket tools, probably too expensive for home workshop but if you have a bike repair business nothing else comes close.
@@barryplank6766 Sure, but the Snap-In system is extremely expensive even for a bike shop. Basically, if the tool is made of decent steel and, when required, has at least one contact point for a generic tool to apply proper lever, it's good enough for a bike shop.
My weapon of choice is the dtw700. Bought the 300 but sent it back, had the speed but no the kick .
Back in the 80s when I was a bike mechanic I had about ten different freewheel removers.
The IceToolz cable cutters are, in my opinion, the best ones.
Oh. I haven’t tried.
We had an Abbey Dub tool that lasted for 2 uses before it stripped. While the tools looks nice, we've had too many fail way too early for the price that they charge.
Good to know Chuck. Thanks
A little birdie says expect 12 speed GRX announcements around March. Builds+specs for 2023 bikes with 12 speed GRX have been leaked, as well as some RX820 components appearing on Shimano's online pdf manuals.
thanks for this recent suite of videos. the less said about soccer the better.
Thanks for your quick little input about breaker bars. I was really leaning towards using one for a bb overhaul but I think I’ll pass. I noticed that the bbt 22 is quite floppy on the drive
Another great video, I’ve learned so much and got a little more confidence to do a few bits and bobs on my bikes.
I’d like to attempt changing the bearings on my Campag Power Torque but the Park Tool puller is so expensive I may end up bringing it to you instead.
Great video! I second the IceToolz stuff. I us there Hollowtech BB tool and the casette ones. I have my eyes on the Hambini threaded one, as I run he's threaded BSA BB, which has a bigger OD, so can't use the IceToolz one. My current option is the Part Tool BB removal tool, but the fit is terrible, resulting in me scratching it :(
I worked as a bike mechanic at quite a well known company and had access to a lot of tools. Definitely agree, Park Tools hex keys aren't great, Wera are excellent. The only thing stopping Bondhus keys being as good as Wera is the lack of a key on the handle end.
Got a long 12mm Hex key to undo freehub in my Fulcrum wheel from Ebay made by Arndt, did the job.
Florida is the flattest State in the US. I live in the Second flattest State in the US. The only hills I see are leftover glacial moraines. Before I got old and out of shape, I could ride all day, big ringing a 12-23. As for bottom bracket tools, 10 years, or so ago, I gave away the tools for early 80's bottom brackets. The only ones I still have are for mid 90's Campy, Shimano Octalink (Ultegra and Dura Ace----Yes, I still have a 7700 bottom bracket on my TT bike), and the modern Shimano type.
It’s so hard to imagine. Do you race each other for landmarks rather than hill tops?
@@Mapdec Race for town signs.
I bought some Cyclus tools over the years. Yes, I have lots of Park stuff and most is good, but for things as a home mechanic, I dont need a drop out checker, headset press or bottom bracket thread chaser by Park , to which I have to remortgage. Cyclus are quite agricultural in quality , which is fine, they havent broken or done anything wrong and for the use of maybe once or twice a year , is ideal.
I am looking out for a new workstand and have a Minoura 3000 ( I think) which is tired, but the Park ones are crazy and cant believe they will offer anymore than another manufacturer.
I also have a 'flock' of bottom bracket tools, including Royce, Hope and others, but as a rule, I just get HT2 BB's now. Same Park spanner ( with the HT2 wheelie on the other end) . You dont need to torque, if you got the feel to how tight to do it. As to using the big guns for removing clients BB's that crazy. When I buy a new bike, I strip back to a frame and pack the headset with thick marine grease , even if I remove the bearing seals , but always make sure the bottom bracket is well greased in the threads to prevent seizure and future issues.
You mention Tiagra groupsets, which my winter road bike has a full groupo. The only thing that lasted 10 minutes was the bottom bracket and was as water tight as a tea bag. A replacement Ultegra one and all has been happy since.
Sadly BBs installed at factory are rarely installed well. Either packed with cheap lithium grease or none at all. As for ‘No need to torque’.. that’s ok for home use, but as professionals we do things correct and warranty our work. If your own work fails it’s your responsibility, if we get it wrong oh boy it’s a problem.
@@Mapdec I always use Phil Wood grease for bottom bracket and wheel bearings and agree with the cheap lithium grease being poor, non-existent but cheap. My GXP bottom bracket was almost dry on the non- drive side after 300 miles and you could feel it. I have seen bottom brackets installed by a local bike shop ( dont exist anymore !) and decided with the hamfisted and poor installation , as an engineer by trade, I would never cross their palms with silver and never have done with any bikes since . Better have a word with Mr Hambini with regards to torquing threaded bottom brackets and put the Park spanner away :). Over the years, I have only had one undo which was the Hope Ti square taper , but recognise the need to torque and check for a customers bike.
Check out Bikehand brand tools too. I like their YC-29BB. Made of heavy cast steel. 1/2" drive with 1" hex socket outer as well. Knurled outer surface to enable you to drive the threads in by hand first for engagement.
Wow.
Fantastic!! 👌
More on tools plz 🙏
Brilliant video!
I started using IceToolz for a decade now, strong & simple.
9/10 Speed - Classic
1. I still use a triple 9sp Ultegra Swiss designed bike, a 9 Speed Dura Ace Principia, & a 10 Speed SramForce that was lighter than the Dura Ace back in 2010 (on a R3 Addict).
We definitely need:
Chain rings
Rear & Front Derailing parts
Cassettes
It’s an unfair waste to cancel production when there are millions of customers like myself with multiple bikes.
11 Speed vs 12sp?!?!
2. I do like the range in the new SRAM eTap, but if I am honest my di2 Ultegra 11 speed still is butter smooth. I still don’t feel a 12 speed inflated prices system has become a better climber.
Cost Rise/Weights Rise!
I remain shocked by the high weights of all the groupsets vs a decade plus ago.
3. Rim vs Disc! Fat Shaming!
NB: rim should continue, it’s perfect for rolling hills & Switzerland where I rode them over decades. My lightest disc bike is a handmade de rose with a purposely chose Ultegra mechanical build to keep the weight low. New bikes are getting lame fat, eg the trek notably had to be put on a diet & still is astronomical in weight & prices!
Summary: at some point, the manufacturers have lost a lot of my cycling club who would have been adding to their collection. Instead they make their older bikes last longer & cannot conceive forking out £6k for an electronic fat groupset albeit loving the new more aero shapes.
Is there Snobbery?!?!/:-
Final thought: my non aero R3 Addict, lightweight 6.34kg build is still brilliant today on club rides as it was back in 2011. It’s used into winter!
Great comments. Thank you.
I'm a bike mechanic and found this really interesting with regard to the use of Ice toolz. I have the Park Tool BB removal tools and, like you, have found them unsatisfactory on some many occasions, I never really considered the Ice toolz ones before but will definitely give them a go now. As for Abbey Tools, I have the Shimano Cassette removal tool and find it to be a brilliant bit of kit. It is holding up really well and is a solid bit of kit. They are pricey though.
Thank you. Have you got an Abby WAG? Best thing they make
@@Mapdec Do you mean the HAG?, I don't have that but it does look a good bit of kit. I have the old Park tool HAG and find it a pain as the alignment rod doesn't fold down when you want to move it around the rim, unlike the new model which does.
@@thetravellingwhiteleys9594 lol. Yes 😂
@@Mapdec 🤣
Elvedes make a great outer cable 'prick' tool which makes for very clean running inner cables. They also make an excellent end ferrule crimp tool. Tobe tools make a great little T handle holder tool for chainring bolts.
I've quite a few original Shimano BB tools which are high quality but expensive. I've got all the Park Alu ones as well, and wondered why their fit never seemed so great.
Good video
Thanks Tomas.
My Park Tool BB-69.2 fits nicely with little to no slop though.
I got a bit unlucky with one of the Abbey tools, Abbey Bike Tools Geiszler Truing Stand Adaptor, it was banged up from the factory, I know it was from factory as it was inside a sealed bag.
one of the knob were knocked, but not a big deal. Did not bother returning it as i needed it. much better product than the massive, oversized, huge and heavy Park Tool adapter, long, big rod, heavy, and had adaptor cones. It did not make any sense to me. I managed to damage the threads, possibly bend the rod.
Familiar story.
You should do a video on workshop practices, Grease and how it effects torque. Oh and Galvanic corrosion 😉
Wow. That’s defo a hole to dig. I’m in!
@@Mapdec 🤣🤣🤣
I have rotor alduh cranks and they are wonderfully versatile as you can swap out the axlesto suityour bb. I personally am happy at 11sp and don't feel the need of anything else. But I do like electronic otherwise I'd be looking at the Chinese options right now. Di2 is my choice but also like the idea of fully wireless too. I'll keep buying it S/H di2 kit for the time being. Also happy to stick with PF BB's 5 bikes and no creaks so keep my tool kit simple yet frustratingly large. Also I Kind of love buying new tools so always happy to 'invest' in new ones. 😁
Loving these daily "chats", just wish you guys were more local to me. I'll wave as I head back from Glasgow to Cardiff on Sunday. 🤣🤣🤣
Thank you. Good comment.
I would imagine the aluminum tools are good for race mechanics and their luggage. They cant afford to carry steel around, grams start to add up to kilos real quick. It looks like they counting on the fact these bikes are brand new and been looked after more than a princess.
Yes, and this is kinda what Abby tools had in mind. But no one seems to make a good steel one until IceToolz.
@@Mapdec I have Abbey Tools Crombie Tool - Dual Sided Steel/standarrd cassette lock ring tool, No issues with it, but wore off some of the logo. Abbey Tools is not always available, on their site it can often be out of stock, at least this year. A lot of their tools were out of stock in Norway.
The Standard has held up well, used it for years, even with stuck lock ring, which I could not get loose.
Welds are great, quality product.
What the some of description says:
''The STANDARD version comes with a solid handle which gives the tool some mass making it the preferred choice in the shop. ''
-''The SUPER LIGHT version shaves 125 grams out of the handle and are meant for working on well maintained bikes. The SL's are not suitable for use on bikes that have over torqued or seized lock rings. If you are working in a shop or just don't need to travel with your tools we strongly suggest that you go with our standard solid handle tools.''
Abbey Tools look so nice, but pricey as well
As home mechanic I have great experience with Topeak tools (Taiwan brand). I think Ice tools are copy of Shimano (Pro) tools. I have chain checker from them but throwing it out soon because it only shows 1,0 and 0,75 marks (not enough any more).
Yes a lot of their tools are copies, but there are some gems in the range.
One of the nice things I see in the Ice Tools is they've labelled them. Shame it's with obscure codes.
I've got a wide variety of BB & cassette tools, too, from various manufacturers. Hardest thing is working out which one I need for a given job - they all look pretty much the same, but are subtly different.
Don't use any of them enough to have broken them, though.
And a long arm breaker bar: pretty much a workshop essential for taking things apart.
Very true. Even if they just put the Km size it would be more useful
Yes lock in mechanical ultegra classic rim group set Shimano.
I think a late 80s chorus (that can index!) Would be sweet. Campy is loosing market share and could fill the niche.
Maybe SR could re-imagine a superbepro.
Shimano offerings always come off as industrial with boring finishes.
That would be cool!
I've broken nothing with impact tools. Breaker bars.....ymmv. Removal only as you stated
Damn did u predict Shimano cue
As you mention in the beining of the video. The "Classic" groupset will be awesome.
Sometimes if i do period corect or Neo-retro bikes (i own few of them) it's a challenge to collect parts to do it.
In general.. silver parts are quite rare. For a while, majority of componets are black, so once i totaly disasebled every part in groupset and remove the paint and polish it to silver finish.. more silver options will be better.
I know it is only a color, but when building a bike which have to look certain way.. With black groupset it don't look correct.
one of my neo-retro bikes is rare vintage favorit (colubus tubing, forged dropouts, ITA BB) and i even buld wheels for it and mirror polish originaly black rims and hubs.
Wow. There needs to be a global concourse show for this sort of thing.
@@Mapdec I have soft heart for this kind of things, also the classic cars like for example Jaguar E Type, Citroen DS, SM etc..
The vintage bike i've written about is head turner. few times somebody taken pictures of this bike when i stoped on a trip.
also.. complete Dura ace 7400 is rare to see
I’m sick of buying 20 unique tools for every new bike I get 😑
I use an Amazon special Lixada..$45... it doesn't suck.
People in the bike media REALLY need to start pushing back against all this pointless incompatible tooling, it’s making even trivial maintenance a real pain, as the research required to work out what random hub or bracket your bike comes with is taking days
Hi, great information. I am having trouble with choosing a socket for a Wheels Manufacturing T47 with inboard bearings. It needs to be 48.5mm (outer BB dimensions). Really tough to find this.
Thanks much
Yep. We haven’t found a good one yet.
Perhaps do video on bike stands?
Umm. If I can make it interesting I will.
Unior is another alternative for good quality no fuss tools, but I think they are slightly pricer than the icetools. Not sure if that due to eu imports or greater popularity :)
Yes. They are starting to make their BB tools from steel now. They haven’t got quite the range yet. We use a lot of Unior tools. Those work stands are Unior.
Desde El Salvador, muy interesante e informativo, gracias, aprendi algo nuevo, sigue adelante, bendiciones
Greetings. 👋
Hope you still read this... for the time frozen groupset: In IT there is "LTS"-Versions as in "Long Time Support". I believe if Shimano would offer Dura Ace, Ultegra, 105 and a 105 LTS-Version, that might be a bit more expensive, a bit less fancy and highest tech, but rather proven... and Shimano would garantee 10 years of spares for that one - I know what would be the new "groupset of the people"...
Since I cant see Shimano or anyone doing this I believe this might be an entrypoint for other players in the market....
Only think I completely don't see: I don't think an LTS-Groupset has to be 11s... loads of people around here are looking for parts for there 9s Bikes... Shimano DA 7700 was a unbelievable groupset. Still an amazing ride... And to get used derailleurs, brakes, etc around here is actually possible - but not as cheap as you would think 25 year old used parts should be
It would be a nice example to set for an eco friendly option. I wonder if sustainability can ever find peace alongside consumerism.
The link does not have any products listed now.
Hello all. I have a bike with a M48 Bottom Bracket. I want to upgrade my drive train to shimano xt. The xt BB is obviously smaller so I’m wondering if they make some type of thread in step down or if another option is available?
M48 is just thread in cups that step down to PF41 BB86, BB92 etc. Your local bike shop will know what to do.
Last time I was in Miami there were traffic lights every 250m - have they all been removed and you don't need your brakes?
How many tools do you really need to install or remove press-fit BB😉
Haha. Most of that picture is just for threaded. I have a similar amount for press fit.
Knipex are the truth!
I love Silca tools! What are your thoughts on Silca?
Jewellery. Nice, but wear out too fast for shop use. Their alan keys are not accurate enough for what they charge.
What is your general opinion on Unior tools?
Generally good.
I used a 1/2" impact wrench once to free a stuck pedal. The left crank fastened into a massive vice on an even more massive table. With the wrench in reverse anti clockwise and my son pulling an open end wrench the same direction nothing happened. I unscrewed the pedal body and changed from road Shimano to M -540 Shimano. Problem solved! I have the square taper Shimano tool and the one for Phil Wood. Too bad GXP bottom brackets were a dud and the Shimano track bb isn't that great either. Campagnolo and Sugino are the ones left that last in regular road use, and Phil. Not much use for gears or brakes around here. The front rim is still anodized despite the unused front brake. 8000 miles on that one and the computer wasn't on the bike till the next year. Junky tight VP knockoff UN-55 still tight and rough. Even a poor square taper bb is durable! This bb mashup was not needed. Great for the manufacturer, not good for the consumer or mechanic.
Wow.
Thanks for the icetoolz recommendation, I have always found Park Tools overpriced.
As for aluminium tools, I wouldn't entertain them, even for a home mechanic, who uses them occasionally a big NO, they may look nice with a coloured anodized finish, but chocolate teapot in my opinion....
As for bottom bracket tools that need lots of extensions on, they just want to disengage from the bottom bracket splines with the extra distance away from pivot point, so another big No from me.
I have found the ring spanner type good, if they are steel and have put a large washer and bolt through, so you don't have to physically hold the spanner in place, just concentrate on undoing. Obviously if very tight I use a length of steel tube as an extension👍
for tsunami sn100 which size wrench it use?
Sorry. I have never use used one.
In the video it refers to M097 as being correct for 386evo bbs. Is that correct? My 386evo is 49mm diameter and 16 notches? If M097 is not correct, what is the correct tool please?
Bb386evo is pressfit. Do you mean T47? There are several different T47 tools.
@@Mapdec Not T47, unless the tool is the same. Wheels Manufacturing 386evo (fitted to an ADHX)
@@enigma1000 oh. You will need the wheels manufacturing tool.
@@MapdecThat’s a pity, I’m fairly sure it’s alloy and quite expensive…
Excellenct kit machenere
If you had a 3 piece square taper crank you would not need to wrenches
I've had to buy the proprietary Hope tool for my press-fit pf41 BB £50+ 🤬
Don’t get me stated on Hope 🤣
Wow, didn't realise that the BB standardisation went further than just sizing. Why so many different types of fittings?
Especially Shimano, why change the type of removal system for each high end model?
Surely one brand, one removal system, is bad enough as it is!
You would think. Shimano has 3 sizes of BSA hollogram that need separate tool.
@@Mapdec ridiculous !!
Is there a U.S. distributor?
I just go to the local bike shop and have them remove it for free
Do you have recommendations for torque wrenches?
I just purchased a Topeak DX wrench. It goes up to 10 Nm and it has digital display and audible alarm. It was almost 200 bucks but worth the investment in the long run because I had no idea I was either under/over torquing bits and pieces around my bikes, especially the carbon stuff.
Wera or bust.
Umm… wera, but they are very expensive and overkill for most. They also take ages to adjust and expensive to recalibrate. For most home mechanics I would recommend a cheap M part, replace it rather than recalibrate and use good quality bits rather than the poor ones they come with. Topeak also have kit at mid range.
Take a look at the Pro Bike Tool 1/4-inch Torque Wrench. I've put mine through shop duty since October 2020 and is still holding up.
If it can handle shop duty, it surely can handle home mechanic duty. I have a Prestacycle preset torque wrench (5 Nm) on the way as this is my most frequently used torque spec. Sometimes it's a chore to take my torque wrench out to do a quick cockpit check, so having this little guy with me at all times can help speed things up.
@@Mapdec The Park Tool ones are not perfect, the small one came with an bit adaptor, it falls off now, almost no grip to the torque wrench, it was loose when it was new, wobbly, a lot of play, but got worse now. The torque wrench has play. So if I use the original bit adapter I it drops on the floor, if I spin the torque wrench with my finger, it drops on the floor, so then it's best to use a L shaped hex if working on rear axle.But I have a Jonesway bit adapter which has better tolerances, So I will be using that. but both can be tricky to remove from the bit, so sometimes I use pliers.
It’s Hambini’s fault 😊
What I have learned from tool-centric TH-cam channels is that forged tools are much stronger and better than CNC. It is no wonder why Park's BB tools fail easily.
*forged and CNC'd steel is stronger than forged and CNC'd Aluminum
both steel and aluminum stock used for these tools are forged, but their material hardness is different
Can't they just replace current tiagra with dura ace 7800?
😳.
I take it you won’t be selling any bike that has a proprietary seat post and bar and stem combination as there were perfectly good seat pot and headset standards.
Have you seen the other vids? Btw, we don’t sell bikes. Just service and fitness.
@@Mapdec I posted this in the wrong video it should have been in the I’m done with rimbrake one. But thinking about it gravel should have been the saviour of bike standards. We should have got behind a modern bike with threaded bb, a 27.2 mm round seat post, standard round fork steerer and cables not routed through the steerer. There is no need for aero gravel and the public and you tubers should have been sensible to show the manufacturers what we wanted.
I just got to the final point of a bb install and realised i had the wrong tool. I thought I'd checked but obviously not. So annoying.
Still happens to us.
@@Mapdec that makes me feel better
Hi mapdec? Didnt get your name yet...
Ive been watching yr videos and theyr really informatives/educational 😁
And the point that i would like to mention, at least in this vídeo, iis that you just talk about Shimano groupsets, and nothing about the Campagnolo...or sram.
I say this just because a lot of people hás them and even Ride both groupsets.
Thanks and keep up with good videos
Thanks. Name is Paul. Just doing vids as things are relevant. There are vids on Campagnolo and sram but they have done their updates for a while. We are all waiting for the big S to make their moves.
@@Mapdec thanks Paul.
I agree that Park Tools aren't as good as they were, Allen keys are made of cheese. I have used Cyclo tools with varying degrees of success, the cone spanners are useless. Why tools for tough, repetitive jobs are made from aluminium is beyond me.
Nothing wrong with Shimano bbs.....
🤷♂️
the Press Fit BBs can't be serviced, they are plastic, and if you try to remove the cover/adapter, you will destroy it, even knocking it out, you might ruin it.
so if it seizes you have to spray with DW40 or Muc Off m94 or similar. I had to do that on a friends bike, one side had crazy drag, felt like it was rotating in very sticky thick honey.
At least I got it spinning with M94 spray.But they seem to stay good for a while, no become a greasy mess.
Thank you for the content. But Dude, you talk for the first half of the video before getting anywhere near the topic of BBs. If you want viewers, maybe start with clear specifics of the topic people are searching for and finish with the broader commentary.
Get to the point
👉
Please, stay on topic when recording your videos. It took you almost 5 minutes to get to the topic and it's a mere 13-minutes video. Clearly, you don't value your viewer's time.
Least helpful feedback ever. If you don’t value the content, don’t watch it. I’m a bike mechanic with camera, not a TV celebrity with a script. 😘
@@Mapdec your video title literally says "Bottom bracket tools for when you really gotta wrench!". Instead of bottom bracket tools content I am listening a lection on cycling on flats in Florida and next generation Shimano Tiagra which hasn't been neither announced, nor leaked. If you can't stay on topic, at least include timecode to cut to the chase.