Pro Tools YOU Need as a Home Mechanic
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 17 มิ.ย. 2024
- These are some of the essential tools we use everyday in the work shop which I would recommend investing in if you're a home mechanic!!
In this video we demonstrate and explain why YOU need these tools as a home mechanic, including:
Ice Tools Cassette Removal Tool
Park Tools CP1
Ices Tools Chain splitter
Wera Tools Alan Keys
Topeak Torque Wrench
And Many More!!! - กีฬา
Perfect. Please also make a video about different types of grease we might need to keep at home for servicing bikes.
Another option for torque wrenches is the analog ones. They don't need calibration. And while they are a little more fiddly having to read the bar needle, they are cheaper and for the home mechanic only using it every once in a while, it's not so bad.
Yep beam torque wrenches are very accurate though precision (repeatability) is not as good as digital/clickers but I just posted a link to a clicker calibration video which works great. Always remember that the range that works (under and over) on bike parts is pretty wide. Mostly the torquing of bolts on a bike is simply an exercise in not over tightening things and plastically deforming the fastener or overloading bearings etc and less so attaining a perfect setting like say you need on car head bolt etc.
Everyone here is obsessed with torque wrenches, while they are quite useless outside of 100% controlled conditions. Park tools just published a video about this.
With any change in temperature, humidity, age of the bike and the grease etc, applying the same torque on a bolt has not the same effect on tension!
seasoned high end car tech's routine.....if possible clean before. Working on clean items has so many benefits...cleaner shop, hands, less tool slippage...etc. tools and parts are less prone to damage. customers and techs happier. creates a touch of class for all.............
totally. No one likes working on muck
In the previous shop I worked at, when we got our new mineral oil hydraulic bleed kit, I told others to make post-bleed washing a habit.
One thing I’ve got that I’ve used a lot is a brake piston press in my bike tool box works better than a flat blade screwdriver.
Came here for the “Fravorite”
Was not disappointed.
That's not a Cobra, that's a Pliers Wrench. And it's not the smallest one.
Love the videos, keep it up.
If you didnt know, Wera, Hazet, Knipex and a lot of really high quality tool brands are coming from the same german city (or close radius to that) which is well known for steel industry. The next city to that is also very well known around the world for their high quality kitchen accessories ranging from pans and bowls to cutlery like forks and knives etc.
I love when an industry branch really has a hotspot of really high quality stuff with tons of knowledge and history, one part because of the competition is so close but the benefit is also employees being swapped around so the knowledge gets mixed up and filteres basically
My takeaway is the 5 sided spanner for brake lines. I'll be getting one of those.
Edit: the kind shown is discontinued. The replacement is the Park Tool MWF-3. It's called a "flare wrench"
Same here, thanks for the info!
That's a common car mechanic tool, so probably available for less than Park wants you to pay.
Being from the auto industry, I already have a set of flare nut spanners.
Where has that Hub cap tool been all my life?! I didn't even know it existed
If you release the tension on your torque wrench when you store it, it will need less calibrating
This is not good advice. Torque wrenches need to be stored at the lowest marked setting, unless otherwise instructed by the manufacturer. They will go out of calibration faster if stored with no tension or too much tension.
That was great! Thanks.
Brilliant stuff
Ever tried the Rohloff Revolver chain tool? It’s not cheap, but it’s been doing a great job for years now in my (home) workshop.
I think that for screws with restricted access a mini ratchet like the Topeak Mini Ratchet Rocket comes in extremely handy as well.
Thanks. Very helpful.
Really well made and helpful video. The concise descriptions you provide are so effective at explaining what to think about when acquiring/using these tools. Your experience comes through in spades. I've learned so much about bikes from you. Thank you!
Thanks for the vid 👍
Excellent vid, thanks!
A good option for chain removal tool is the Topeak multitool one, it is small but you can attach a long handled 4mm allon key to the screw to get loads of leverage
Thanks. I'll be checking some new tools. Already got the Wera Allen keys. Nice.
I have a lot of these tools. Mix of Wera, Park and Pedros. Love that yellow.
I love Wera tools been using them for years excellent quality 😊 Pete
The Time frame hanging up looks amazing.
A really handy video well worth a watch.
I have those allen keys and they are fantastic. I also have many of the other tools on your desk
The first time I used a hub genie was like a woah what have they made here moment. I think it could do with some refinement like a rubberized gripper on the shaft to help tighten it by hand a bit better but it's a minor thing.
For chain tools I’d recommend the smaller park tool one. You don’t want to crank down on the chain tool that’s how you damage the pin. If you have to crank hard it’s not aligned properly. If it’s all lined up it doesn’t take that much effort to break the chain
There’s fancier options and less fancy options.
But generally speaking, I completely agree with your list
My favourite chain tool is an old one from Giant, I can easily replace the pins and I seem to still be able to get them.
Very good content. You use the same ideas and methodology I use as a weekend (month end, summer end? LOL) auto mechanic. Some tools I use all the time and therefore buy the best I can afford. Some tools I use very infrequently so I only spend as much as I feel I need in order to do the job once or twice as they often don't last very long.
I quite like the Decathlon chain whip thingy, it's a lump of metal like a spanner but with a flat end with pegs in it that slot between the teeth of 11 / 12 /13 / 14 tooth cassettes (at least my old BTwin version does). Sub £20, even an idiot (hello!) can use it.
Stubbled into your channel, I'm hooked. Lol. Great to see an all round comprehensive video steered to the home mechanic. Wera tools are just fantastic and not stupid money either and great to see recommended by a full time workshop where they see extensive use. Best infrequent tool in my box. Park internal cable routing I.R.2 yes expensive for what it is, but it makes any internal cable job a cinch.
We share the Icetoolz cassette tool, the Wera hex set, the Park master link tool, the park cable cutters and the Knipex adjustable plyers. Of course that's just the tip of the iceberg with tools like the Abbey HAG hiding at the bottom.... far away from my wife's knowledge of how much they really cost compared to what I told her they cost.
I just end up getting a new hanger every time. Might cost a bit more, but easier on my end
The best video on bike tools I ever watched. Useful and honest tips, 👍🏻
Thanks 👍
ZTTO HAG 5 should be something everyone should have, it's a cheap but great derailleurhanger tool and it solves a lot of problems!
As long as the tolerances aren't too loose, I might let it slide. However, because I was a shop mechanic, I have higher standards for mine, so I picked the DAG-2.2. Not as perfect as Abbey's HAG (I can't afford this one yet, should I buy it one day), but it's fine enough for shop use.
Paul great vid …….I’d add axle vice and set of magnetised picks (set of 3 various head angles), set of files for outercable ends.
Knipex twin grip slip joint pliers are so handy for all jobs on and off the bike especially if dealing with a knackered nut or bolt....
6:40 you should give the felco cable cutters a try. Beautiful Swiss tools that actually make cutting cables fun..
Good list. As said below, Felco cable cutters. Had mine for 25 years.
Agree, they are supposed to be the best.
That Time frame in the background looks hella nice
I highly recommend Lifeline tools.
That hub genie looks like it's going to be my next purchase though.
I would add reusable zip ties for putting on Marathon Plus tyres, helps compress the tyre down when putting them on.
what zip ties,just apply some GT85 or WD40 on side walls and you will have no problems
The wera screwdrivers are definitely amazing tools:)
I have most of what you covered and then some. I have built up bikes from ground zero several times. Now, I just do the maintenance on mine unless I have something that totally stumps me then to my LBS.
Regarding the calibration of torque wrenches: I use a beam type torque wrench(Park) as the benchmark of my other torque wrenches, then I can have more consistent results from cheap wrenches.
Also hex wrench sizes good to hunt down are 11mm, 12mm (15/32), 14mm (9/16), and I think 15mm. All four are used either from the front or back side of certain brand hubs to loosen/remove freehub bodies. Often times those sizes don’t come in the usual set. The fractional sizes are closest to the metric and often will work in a pinch.
A couple more:
Chain cleaning tool
Tyre levers
Syringe and hose for tubeless sealant topups
Chain whip, I use a motorcycle clutch/flywheel holding tool, or if not at home you can use a towel to hold the cassette
Regarding the chain breaker. Abbey tools makes the one called Decade but it's expensive. My go to is KMC one with green/black handle. Comes with reversible pin with one extra. One side lasts a lifetime, you got four. Works on all chains and costs around 20 to 30 euros.
Birzman make tools for evenly pushing brake caliper pistons back in. I got the disc brake piston pusher, but I see now they have made a new version as well because of 4 piston calipers. I've at least found this to be my favorite tool because it makes adjusting brakes so much easier because you do not need to remove the wheel nor the caliper. The other best thing is it gives and even push every time so you won't have to crack those ceramic pistons like I have in my Shimano calipers(nor push them in skewed just in general), that so many have cracked because they used wrong method/tools.
I'd say that's a tool even more useful for beginners to avoid wrong practice, like sticking a flatsided screwdriver in there and just twisting and bending.
0:50 I would but a cassette tool without the centering pin because then you can use it on a fork as well
Also for Shimano centerlock rotors lock rings (for 12- mm axle)...
That hub end cap tool is brilliant, I have to get one. I'm always tearing my hair out trying to remove the end caps on my Hope hubs.
A woodworking vice or a metal wise with two bits of wood works in my experience. For the rare occasion I need to pull end caps.
The Wera allen keys are amazing. The top of the line Park t-type all metal wrenches are great too but very expensive. Three other recommendations for home mechanics: 1. JIS screwdrivers. The bolts used in Shimano derailleurs are JIS standard, they are not Phillips. Get the right screwdriver and it works much better. They also have better engagement with regular Phillips head fasteners. 2. The Feedback Sports Range torque wrench. The old beam type is great, they make a new click-type as well. These are inexpensive, small, easy to use and (apparently) accurate. 3. The Bike Hand beam-type repair stand. The beam-type repair stands are much mroe stable than home folding clamp-type. Also, it's impossible to damage your bike with a beam type. Lastly, they allow you to rotate the bike around and lift it up exposing the bottom bracket all of which makes it easier to clean and work on bikes. The Bike Hand one is relatively affordable, very well made (it will last a lifetime), very stable and fits basically any bike out there.
Have you noticed that hardly anything uses JIS anymore.
I just learned something new for me. JIS standard.
I’d add a Dremel tool, just to clean cable housing cuts. I have had the old Shimano cutters, Felcos, and some other regarded cutter, but they all mangle housing a bit. The Dremel lets me make the end smooth and square.
My previous workplace has a bench grinder, so whenever there's time, I'd use that to grind brake housings square after cutting to length.
Usual quality vid…reminded me I’ve had my gorilla Allen keys ( recommended to me by a mechanic ) for literally decades as well as some Park ones that are possibly 8 YO so maybe time for some new ones and a proper set of star key ones ( I thought this might go away but seems to be becoming more prevalent)
Invest in good quality wire cutter. Keeps braided cables from fraying. Knipex is what I use.
I would spend the extra money to get a torque that clicks instead of the analog torque. For some applications it’s fine. But I found for some bolts, monitoring the reading and applying force is just too tricky. You not only have to see the indicators but you have to align your eyes correctly so the reading not off. Imagine finding yourself a leverage to apply 40N, pushing down on the BB tool so it doesn’t slip on the tiny contact surface and bending over or squatting down to get the correct reading.
1. Torque wrenhes 2. If your riding off road, a derailleur hanger alignment gauge. 3. Good quality hexes.
Those Wera allen and torx kits are amazing, would recommend using them for any thing. Bought some with my own cash to use for the bike shop i work in!
You have to supply your own tools?
@@Mapdec Technically no, I do more sales than repairs and wanted a solid set of tools to keep aside. Saves me pinching the mechanics tools for a quick handle bar adjustment! :)
Halfords Advanced/Pro hand tools for UK peeps is a no brainer, used the 200pc box for the past 10+ years on cars and bikes, zero wear. Tried the IceToolz cable cutters and broke one of the jaws, which is crazy, back to my 10+ year old Park cutters. Park quick link pliers. Mix of IceToolz/Shimano/Park cassette/freewheel tools, no longer in use since Unior released their cassette holder and lockring tool. IceToolz chain breaker. Park truing stand and spoke tension meter. Sapim spoke keys. A single Vessel 2x150 JIS screwdriver. £5 Homebase saw horse as a bikestand for 5+ years.
What screws are jis on your bike? 😂
That Halfords set is junk. 300 quid for some junk sockets and bits. I can fix near everything on my canyon with 5 bits. Hex 3 4,5,6 and t25
Whatever, canyon guy.
If you are truing bladed spokes, get a spoke holder. Its much easier. Dt swiss makes an incredible one.
I got Park Tool's since it has a pliers' form factor, meaning it can work with all bladed spokes since this is what I want (after having trued a customer's Shimano wheelset with a different spoke width). Most bladed spoke holders are set to a certain width and some bladed spokes don't match any of these widths.
Personally never needed pliers for removing the quick link - bare hands and gloves were always just fine for both sram and kmc :) For the chain pin removal tool - there are ones with replaceable tip, so once it wears out you dont have to throw away the entire tool. What I do miss in the list is the 15mm key for undoing pedals, and the derailleur hanger alignment tool which one uses more often than expected, especially on mtbs. Also, to test if the chain is already too long can be done with just regular calipers.
Good strength.
I have a little 5nm torque key which is great for travelling with the bike when you come to refit the stem and seatpost.
What brand is this?
@@yonglingng5640 mine is a Lifeline one. There are a few similar ones on the market. They are generally pre-set to 5nm or similar and come with a few different heads you can slot in.
Park Tool Cassette Pliers are much easier to use than the Park Tool Chain Whip SR-12.2. You don’t have to fiddle with chain engagement onto the correct sprocket or in the right direction (clockwise or anticlockwise)
The DT Swiss Pro spoke drivers are my favorite. Working in a very big shop, the park ones wear out or wear out nipples easier. The DT takes far more abuse without destroying $$$ wheels. I think they are like $30 but totally worth!
DT Swiss spoke keys brace against more of the spoke nipple than Park Tool's, that's one of the features of a high-end spoke key. P&K Lie's spoke key is shaped like this too.
@@yonglingng5640 yes exactly! that different bracing design makes all the difference.
@@Atxcmtb It's fascinating how much more differently you can look at tool brands once you know what to look for, it's like opening your third eye. 😂
@@yonglingng5640 it’s like using your first Abbey bike tool. It changes how you see quality of tooling and where you spend your money for the shop
Crescent cable cutters are good .
What's your opinion about Abbey tools? I know they tend to be pretty expensive, but what about using them as a value proposition due to their longevity in used.
Do you guys even realize how good you are for the community.
Around my area mechanics have 2 two tools and one peace of advice. Old plyers, WD40 and as advice they say, your bike sucks by a new one.
Theres only one guy that could find that had a facing tool. He did the job for me with out cleaning and oil. Just rushed through it...
I am seriously thinking about fly over to you guys for a few days...
Ahh this was like a check list of tools in my toolbox. The next investment will be a BB press as i now have 5 bikes with press fit systems. I'm just trying to decide on the HHP-3 or going all in with the BBP 1.2.
Check out BSC Tools. You'll also need a PressFit BB removal tool, I prefer impactless versions.
The HHP-3 has the disadvantage of winding the handle in and out all the way when you're installing it into and removing it from your bike.
Wiha is also fantastic
I'm still using the chain checker with 0.75 and 1.0. I haven't progressed past ten speed.
Mmmh... the new 7-9sp Connex chain I just bought is already past 0.5%!
Maybe the old cassette and chainrings deformed it - after only a few dozens kilometers?
@@DR_1_1 No need to replace it until it gets to 1.0. If it's less than 0.75 it's very new.
@@lovenottheworld5723 Yes... the old chain was still below 1% but for some reason it was not straight anymore - longitudinally, ie looking from above some links were at an angle, rubbing the casing of the front derailleur, when the rest didn't...
These old chains look much stronger than the new 11 speeds, btw.
I’d probably go with a cassette tool that works with quick release/rim brake as well as disk brake through axle rather than through axle tool only. But a good basic list anyway :)
Icetoolz makes one with a skewer specific centre, as opposed to the one shown. In three years of ownership and use it's never let me down.
I've got the park CP12 chain pliers ... what is the smallest size sprocket you'd use them on? I have an 11-28 cassette, and struggled to use them on one of the middle sprockets (maybe I have small hands!)
Shimano makes an excellent chain link closer.
I've been using drapers allen key set for 20 years. Used on many bicycles and motorcycles engine rebuilds. Must have been good back then, still going not really worn.
Try Felco cable cutters.
My recomendation for Knipex is second size: the one you showed is bit too small for threaded headset locknut. Should you still ever come across such
Hey great list. If you haven't checked them out already for your shop, Abbey Bike Tools makes exceptional professional grade tools. Especially their "decade" chain breaker. It's $$$, but they built it for longevity.
We have a HAG and some sockets, but not the decade. I’ll check it out.
One issue with torque wrenches that may be a problem for home mechanics is the lack of understanding of what variables can affect torque. If the thread is dirty or damaged, then the clamping power of that fastener would be lower than the same undamaged, well greased fastener at the same torque setting.
Yep. Let alone holding the thing by the correct place.
Another issue is not anticipating the click. I remember I taught a person or two on how to use one and it took them some time to only understand to not keep applying force once the head pivots.
The long waited video.
We can see King Arthur's Excalibur 😊
Paul channels his inner Dave Rome.
Comment from the 1990s. Generally Allen keys of the right length give the right torque if you are sensible (duly noting the ones in the vid were quite long) in terms of calibration measure the length of your torque wrench and hang weights off it ...or was that wheeler dealers I am thinking of!
Are Wera torque wrenches any good in your opinion? Once again, great video!
I’ve only been using for about a year. They have pros and cons.
Could you go into more detail about the qualms you have about the Topeak Prepstation pro kit? I’m actually really,y interested in picking one up as it is discounted by a large amount. It seems to have all the tools you mentioned in this clip and I like the ergonomics of being able to wheel it around and expand it horizontally and vertically
The torque wrench, hex keys, and cutters are naf. No useful BB tools, too many spoke keys. Nice chain tool.
Excellent info 👌 Question, What's your view of the preset torque wrenches like presta cycle? I have one and find it very handy for things like stem bolts but no idea if it is accurate and whther its getting less accurate the more I use it 🙂
Usually very good, very little to go wrong.
As someone with shop experience, it is accurate (I even cross-checked it with my click-type torque wrench since I know it's still in-spec) and it's been very helpful ever since I bought it.
The decision came to be when I find myself having to take my torque wrench out and wind it to spec frequently to make some minor cockpit adjustments then winding back down once I'm done. Since 5 Nm is the most frequently used torque spec, that's the one I bought.
Ever since then, I always use my torque key for everything that calls for a 5 Nm torque spec except in places where there's no clearance to do so, like most seatpost wedge clamps.
Prestacycle torque keys virtually never go out-of-spec, they're more resilient (accidentally dropping it won't affect its accuracy, but I still try not to drop mine out of good practice) and is pretty much the only torque tool that allows you to loosen bolts (not if it's very tight), so you don't have to go back and fourth with your hex wrench.
By the way, is yours the mini version?
Its a great video.
Its pity that private person can't buy ICE TOOLZ , they only sell to dealers or bike shops, so all home mechanic in Sweden have to continue use medium quality tools.
Yep, I was nodding my head to each of these tools. Have them and use them every day.
Everyone should have an Easytyre tool. They’re cheap £10, and work brilliantly. Just watch it on your carbon rims.
Thumbs 👍
The Abbey chaintool is the best
Any quality chain tool that can peen Campagnolo chain pins beats others. Mine is made by Topeak. I'm all about component compatibility here.
On the torque wrenches, something you mentioned in a previous video is that the socket bit which come with the wrench generally suck.
For higher torque bolts (14nm plus in my experience) it’s worth getting a higher quality set of bits to prevent damage to the bolt
I've always wanted a Park Tool DSD-2 JIS screwdriver for limit screws ... just because I'd know I wasn't butchering the screws with a philips/pozi screwdriver.
Since that's not a bicycle-specific tool, I'd go for an industrial-grade brand, like Vessel. I don't have my own JIS screwdriver of this caliber yet.
If the calibration is an issue with torque wrenches, would torsion beam version ones be a good idea just for carbon finishing kit. Lezyne and Topeak both do one. Cheaper and I guess stay accurate for longer??
Some mechanics (not just in the cycling industry) do swear by beam-type torque wrenches.
3:26 The ones on Lezyne Rap 14 multitool, and the Lezyne Chain Drive are really robust, even on a stubborn link it won't fail, but they are tiny. But it's steel, and the support thing in the middle is tall enough.
That's important. Never buy a cheap Alu chain breaker, they will bend, like Lezyne SV10 multi tool. I retired it.
I like the Lezyne Chain Drive, proper construction, but it's tiny, but I don't need bigger. Pin did not bend, nor did the body.
3:41 The Hex-Plus has sold me on these. I just have to buy them.
4:01 Too much torque thing can be solved by having hand further in, or just not pushing hard on it, just go gently go by feel, once it stops it's enough. Some bike factories overtighten stuff hard, and those should be using torque wrenches right? But if you come across that or you did that by mistake, and it's completely stuck, there might be a fix, put the tool in the freezer for a while, some hot water on the bike or part, and use the cold tool to loosen. I had to do that to correct a mistake someone at a Trek factory did. How is it even possible to over torque it to insane level of torque when it's 10nm? So tight tool was bending. But the freezer hack worked well.
Your second statement is the reason I purposely choke on my hex wrenches when I'm reaching torque spec, except high torque specs where I know I can't reach with my hex wrench alone.
Nice cube in the background! Is it a Gan magnetic one or one like it?
Haha, was going to comment on this as well 😄. Looks like a gan cube to me
The Shimano tool for chain links is (unfortunately) the best, cause it cost like 50-70€. But the build quality is the best and especially the torque screw is properly machined instead of the cheaper ones which are only low quality casting
With the chain splitter, have you considered tampering your pin so you don't need to replace the tool so often? Just heat it with a blow torch and quench in oil then stick it in the oven for a while and it should be waaaaaayyy more durable!
Pedro's vice whip instead of the cp1s ,way better in every way
Or for less than 1/3rd of the price, Decathlon Chain Whip Cassette Remover.
3:18 No pins offered as spares? Lezyne does that, even comes with a spare. But I've not broken one yet. but I don't have to cut chains anymore. As with the current setups just use a 118 link chain and it fits.
Bought the fixed 5 nm Park Tool torque wrench since all the „sensible“ bolts on my bike are 5nm. Do the fixed ones avoid the calibration problem?
Yes they do. I have a Prestacycle Pro torque key of the same torque spec. Yours is a cam-over whereas mine is a springback.
Spokey pro spoke keys have a double thickness metal part and are better than the normal ones.
Do they cover a little more than three sides of a spoke nipple?