TOYOTA TACOMA ENGINE REBUILD STARTS NOW!!!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 ก.ย. 2024
- I started this truck build with the intention of taking the completed project to Easter Jeep Safari... Lets just say, that's not going to happen!
I'm not nearly as far along as i hoped to be but that's how projects like this go. I have fully torn the motor down and had all the machine work done so now it's time to start reassembling the engine and getting it ready to be put back in the truck!!! This is exciting and even though this Toyota tacoma will not look anything like it did in the beginning it's really starting to come together.
#toyota #tacoma #trentsgarage
I'm glad to see that I'm not the only one that noticed the 4 way went well. All that insulation on the wall's and no jackets and also no complain that the temperature is low and cold in there by Allie. Catch you all on Trent & Allie, have a good Sunday you'll.
I noticed you already pass your electrrician inspection and insulationed your Garage before next Monday's video. I do not miss anything here lol. I'm carpenter by trade. I enjoy everything you guys do the pass two years. Keep up a good work, love you guys.
Trent , I see you passed four way inspection with all of the insulation, good job!
Funny that Trent is doing this intricate engine rebuild and everyone just notices the insulation so the 4-way was done (including me).... ;-) Congrats on that and you made the engine rebuild look easy or at least doable (until this point)
ikr
I noticed that you didn’t check the bearing clearances with plastic gaugei. I know it’s all new but any thing can happen it doesn’t Hurt to double check and make sure it’s right!😊😊
I agree. Also didn't check the ring end gap. You don't want to small of a gap where the rings will butt up when they heat up. And a good idea to check the thrust clearance on the crank. I assume you checked the orientation of the rods on the pistons. Also cleanliness is everything I assume you did a thorough cleaning on the welding/grinding bench before starting. You don't want any of those grindings in your engine. I was also taught to use clean white rags with clean oil to wipe out the cylinders, you keep doing it until the rags come out white then you know you got all the metal out from the machine/honing process. When you're driving the pistons in the cylinders have control of the rod with your other hand so it doesn't hit the journal and mess up your polish job. I've also heard that today's oils don't have the zinc in them and you want to add a zinc additive to your break in oil. I think this more for flat tappet cams. Might be worth researching. For your last 90 degrees on your torque to yield bolts I wouldn't use your torque wrench just grab a long ratchet or breaker bar. I admire your ambition and hard work. You get so much accomplished. 👍🙂 Great job!
Trent, having done some wrenching in my day, I am enjoying the heck out of your videos of the rebuild. You are light years ahead of anything that I’ve ever done with an engine and I admire your precision and attention to detail. I am looking forward to the first time you fire that puppy up and I’m sure it’s going to purr or roar like a cat! And congrats on passing the four-way!
I really respect the attitude trent has towards feedback and learning. Great example for younger folks!
Except there off trying to figure out what pronouns they want to be called and what to call there moron friends.
Terrible culture shock this country is dealing with right now.
Just for future thought before u install pistons into the cylinder, u should clean out each cylinder with a shop rag and transmission fluid. Transmission fluid is a detergent. And even after cleaning the engine in a parts washer there is still always a little dirt imbedded in the cylinder wall. Just good for thought.
I see you have insulation up in the shop so that must mean the garage passed the 4 way inspection? Congratulations! It is amazing that your auto mechanic knowledge began in school, they did a great job!
Another Sunday with Trent's Garage..watching and learning. Thanks for share Trent..Love you 🙌❤️
Congrats on the 4-way pass. I love watching you rebuild this engine. So much knowledge in so many areas.
Looks like the 4 way must have gone well. Have fun with it Trent. Had a Stroke and lost vision in one eye and loss of motor function on one side so living my life watching you do all the things I cant any more
You need to gap those rings!!!!😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
Looks like you'll be doing a rebuild in 2k miles or less
Ok Trent I don't much at all about motors but I did own a 2007 Tacoma with the 6 cylinder engine which was 236 hp and I never thought it had the power it needed.I test drove a 2022 and to me it seems the truck itself has gotten heavier and the horse power was 278 and it felt really weak so I no your talked about maybe adding a super charger to this engine or turbo can't remember exactly what you said but I think it's going to struggle to move those huge tires and truck.
Just my concern but you know what your doing.just don't want you to build that whole truck and engine and wish you had bought a bigger motor for it.
But I do no most of the time rock crawling is just that crawling slowly over rough terrain and rocks so maybe it will be ok.
It's truly amazing watching you rebuilding the inner parts of the motor.never seen it done so up close like that. It's remarkable everything you know about so many different things and what you don't know you research it until your confident enough to gone it a go. The whole house build now the garagemahal and apartment build now the rock crawler truck.
Really impressed with your abilities and knowledge of so many different things. Most of us out here in the world are afraid to change the air filter in our vehicles thinking were going to break something and screw it up and cost us hundreds of $$$. That's me LOL and believe me I am excellent and breaking things and costing me or someone else money.
So I hire the pros to do most everything.
Now I am pretty proud I have the oil service down really good on my land rover.i sure ain't paying anyone to do that.its like $300.
So bought the vacuum pump and full synthetic oil and filter and do it myself. Was really nervous the forst couple times but it pretty simple just have to make sure I use the torque wrench to tighten the filter housing cover to the right spec and done.
But I'm no Trent that's for sure.
Love your channel buddy keep up the great work and looking forward to next Sunday and Trent & Allie today and Fridays.
Yall are awesome 👌 Thanks
Thanks Trent, that was absorbing, this was the most enjoyable video I have watched.
Best wishes from Mike. ❤
You must have passed your phone four way judging by the insulation and everything back against the wall.
Trent,
What clearance do you have on the bearings. When I was younger we checked the clearance with plastic gage. Do they still do that or did the engine builder check that before you got it.
I think your supposed to have .001" for ever inch of dia of the crank
Trent,use break in oil only! If you do, drain it after 250 miles and go back with Synthetic. Valvoline Racing oil and it will last forever! I did that with a 350 Chevy 28 years ago and it still runs and not a drop of oil! I have used this way for over 42 years and never had any issues!
That’s super helpful thank you 🙏
I know this is all about Trent's Garage, and, but I see insulation so you must have passed 4 way? Congratulations!
hey Trent use assembly lube on all your bearings like lugriplate 105 or power punch. oil will go away after a while. I assume you will not be starting it in a month or so. Personal note. dont use Penzoil it is garbage. Valvoline or Mobil 1 is a much better choice
Just curious if you happened to check piston ring gap or the bearing clearances?
That was my question also to that's the main painful part, the sanding between the gap to get the perfect distance
That garage is sure looking warmer 😉 Loving the Tacoma rebuild videos and can't wait to see the finished truck off roading!
In the good old days I used STP when assembling the bearing and caps. I’m not sure it’s even made anymore.
Sorry Trent should have watched faarther into the video. you are doing great. Lucas is good stuff
Trent, did you think about plastic gauging the crank and rods to know what your real bearing clearance are?
LOL the heck with the 4-way inspection let's put a 427 big-block in that thing
I can predict the future! You passed the four-way. (the insulation is the reveal!)
Yeah, but he should’ve put vapour barrier up before rebuilding an engine and getting Rockwool in it
White Lithium Lube was the old way for break-in protection
Whoa! quite a project; I have not one but 2! and right now no running vehicles; 2000 Toyota Tacoma 5 speed manual just pulled the head for recondition, thought a blown gasket but surprisingly it is intact; scratching my head while I look at the block; should I take it off now? or should I just do the head and re do the while thing at a later time? what it sucks is in my garage on the Max Jax half lift sits my 2015 Chrysler Town and Country which had a hydro locked engine; everything is back from the shop been there for a while and ready to assembly but got hurt at work and have been procrastinating and now I need to get one car at least in the road ASAP..having the head off the Toyota taking the block off is not more complicated as steering pump and ac compressor sits on the side and do not have to be off or obstructs the engine out or in; taking that head off WAS a nightmare even worst than what I went through with the Chrysler because I have the lift; it really sucks I can not use the lift for the Toyota which sits outside on the side if the house! during the day is murder under Las Vegas sun, even now! so I am really thinking maybe I should do it the whole thing or not; the tacoma can be raised well on a 3 ton jack and the manual transmission does not needs to come out - I think - if that is the case I will look to keep going and restore the whole thing; I also have the same builders kit, time chain, oil pump, water pump from DNJ, all the parts for rebuild this 209k truck are there so …why not? what do you think? worth the extra effort now or wait for the lift? to use the lift the truck would have to be pushed from the side of my house into the garage; with the whole engine out that is which is lighter but still…decisions decisions
HOPEFULLY YOU HAD A SCALES TO WEIGHT MATCH THE PISTON COMPONENTS
Yall just gave away a secret to the next Trent and Allie. I see insulation....
100% true, 500 miles and then change oil.
Did not see you check your ring end Gap
Even Tang is different than what I drank as a child.
This is commonly called rebuilding "the bottom end". Becaue you have to flip the block over to get to the crankshaft, connecting rods, and bearings. When he starts working on the camshafts, cylinder heads, valves and timing then he'll be rebuilding "the top end". Gearhead speak.
Brandon needs to ask more questions. I love hearing Trent's explanation.
U need to cover the motor up with rags
Trent, I've never seen an engine being built so I appreciate having you explain what you're doing and why you are doing it.
When I use to rebuild engines, I always used STP additive to put on the main and rod bearings. To keep them lubed
You need to gap the rings!!
Dave laughing at Trent’s report of snow accumulation…😂😂. Too funny
Hooray for the insulation!!!
Great episode, Trent. Looks like you're starting to find your groove here. Really fantastic camera work and editing as well!
I'm no expert Trent but, but it sure looks like your doing a real professional job on this rebuild. I enjoy watching your progress on this project. Cheers from Tennessee.
Great work there , I have a a 98' Tacoma needing a rebuild on the 2.4. It's a remac. engine which I was not aware of the synthetic oil causing the breakdown after a year. I'm at a crossroads . Buy a remac with 3 yr warranty or try my first rebuild .
My mechanic didn't like DNJ timing chain kit, I had to get OEM cam chain tensioner
add sugar to regular engine oil for a quick break in period.
Really?
I thought sugar was bad for an engine.
nice the insulation is in and garage is set back up, evidently you passed 4way or at least chunks of it! congrats
If there is a difference in weight of the rods, you HAVE to take one rod, piston, piston ring set and crankshaft to an automotive machine shop, for balancing!!!!! DO THIS NOW!!!!!!!
I sure hope you get those piston rings installed correctly with the mfg. stamp in the correct position. Best wishes for a good assembly.
Hey I appreciate you doing this video. I'm pretty confident I could successfully rebuilding my 1gr-fe. If you see this, I would be eternally greatful if you could suggest any videos that go more in depth or any tutorial that has all the details of torque and clearance specs. Thanks Trent for making this video.
I thought you couldnt do anything to the bores on the 1gr. Press fit dis similar metal. Toyota claims you need to replace block. Just wondering. Good fortune !
My apologies, did you have the block bored over or just rebuild with stock parts? My CC wasn’t working but the video looked great!
You passed 4-way!! Awesome!
NEVER trust the machine shop for the measurements! I’m not saying your shop isn’t doing a good job,but mic EVERYTHING yourself! Main cap size, your cylinders if they are to size. Bottom line is go over everything , or it could bite you in the end. Knowledge is power!
I like the way you explain things as you go. Great video! Thx....Always good to see Brandon and hear Allie in the background. Keep it up!.
Dont use cheap standard oil, make sure it is the high dollar oil
The counterweights on the crank are equal to the weight of double-the-weight of (1) rod BIG end and weight of rod LITTLE end (reciprocating weight, comes into play here). If your new rods weigh different than the old rods, the engine will be unbalanced and fail (like, really bad). Also you have the weight of the piston assembly and rings.
Brandon and Trent with matching black jeans and Mountain Made Van t-shirts! 💯 #Twinning 😅😅😅
Hey Trent.. you should get shirts made for you Allie Brandon and Leo with the "Trent's Garage" logo like the Mountain Made Van's logo. Wear them when y'all are filming Trent's Garage. Just this old MO grandma's 2 cents😅
I love Trent’s garage!!!!! But I see in the background insulation you guys must’ve passed your inspection👍👍
I good to be Nervous building an Engine Trent. Always double think, what you are doing in That Moment.!! Nothing Else..
Great tips bro, thanks for sharing ☕️☕️☕️👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽👍👍👍🏡🏠🛻❤
The first thing I spotted in this is that you have passed four way...congratulations...should save on that precious gas....
💡Trent on first start ups you need to use a (break in oil) that has zinc/phosphorus to promote the break in processes as the engine heats up and parts expand. Basicly it wears/polishes the rings, bearings and lifter bodies down from their full expantion temp size to prevent the engine fron siezing.😁👍
Congratulation's Trent and Allie Looks like you passed inspections. Love the Rebuild, Can hardly wait to hear this run. Shop is looking good.
Good Video. I never was a "car guy" to this extent, but you make this engine build very interesting. I love the way you explain what you are doing and the fear that goes with it. Allie is doing a great job with the camera. Good luck and I'll be watching...Howard
I'm watching with fascination and trepidation. My son rebuilt the motor for a '67 Mustang way back in the early 90's. He was given the wrong torque specs for something in the engine. We were all watching with excitement and pride but, In the last few seconds of the first burn a piston was thrown. When the engine failed ... the devastation on my son's face was nearly unbearable. So, I know first hand (or 2nd hand?) how important all those torque specs are. Keeping my fingers and toes crossed!!
I drove a 2003 Chevrolet S 10 quad 4 door long truck bed for 22 years my Dad n I back in the day had to work on my Ol Truck lots of times I coukd tell you some Truck stories Trent lol 😆 glad I'm a SUV Honda Owner now my Ol truck I miss I sold mine!
Trent's building an engine. What is everybody commenting on? The insulation LOL😂
Great video on rebuild, but you need to put plastic over that Rockwool insulation, cause lung, stomach problems and death
Ok, I may have missed you doing these steps??
Did you use plastiguage to check the bearing clearances on the crank and con rods? Also the ring end gap clearance in the bores, you can also pinch Alies scales from in the house and weigh the pistons with pins and the rods. Then mix and match so the combined weights are close together. If you want to get hectic. Weigh each piston find the lightest and make the others match, same with your conrods.. maybe on the next rebuild😱😱😱 insulation looks cosey and warm🤙🏼🤙🏼🤙🏼🇦🇺
We always used to use Plasti-Gage to check the crank and rod bearing clearances. Might be something you'd consider doing just to know everything is correct.
I don't even use conventional. I get Lucas break in or 30 weight base oil with no additives and mix it with Lucas break in additive. That's the first run, change and the first 50 miles then conventional for 500, change another 500 then I switch to synthetic when I'm at 1050 miles on the motor.
Great vid Trent one question I have I'm all team Brandon . My question is first trip out in Tacoma build I hope u got yr wing man booked in passenger seat . What a guy to have yr back. Xx
Assembly lube is okay but may actually make the engine very hard to turn over. I always used a long shaft screwdriver (with the handle removed) in a drill, to physically spin the oil pump. Spin for a minute, then turn the crank 90. Repeat until you see oil coming out onto the rocker arms
I really enjoyed watching the engine being reassembled as you expressed the importance of every move and you showed us how. It’s especially great because everything is so clean and easy to see everything going together.
I just know the engine is going to work very well. Great experience watching the reassembly.
If you dont measure crank and rod journals to bearing clearance before you assemble you already have a 50/50 chance of it surviving
Trent, of all trades with his trusty assistant Brandon
I think you’re missing a trick there, you should have called your channel “piston broke” 🍺
Hey, first congratulations on four way.
Your over using your torque wrench, when doing your 90 deg passed torque use a long breaker bar or ratchet wrench.
Your calibration on the torque wrench get affected by using it a regular wrench.
In the "olden" days, we used white lithium grease on all the bearings for initial start up. Main bearings, rod bearings, cam bearings and cam lobes.
It’s fun to watch and intriguing at how dive into the engine rebuild. Can’t wait to hear it purr. One more thing on your Trent and Allie segment. Looks like you passed your four way, because the wall around your electrical panel was insulated 😊
Really shouldn’t use a click torque wrench to go the extra 90 degrees it makes the torque wrench become uncalibrated, not to say I’ve never done it but definitely have had to replace my torque wrench because of it 😂
nice videoing Allie, loved the explanation Trent, congrats on the 4way, noticed the insulation but didn't realize what it meant until I read the comments.
Hey Trent,
You mentioned not knowing if the engine will be good or bad some months down the road.
Check around in your town to see if anybody has a run stant to fire up engines before installing them.
As I work mostly on Fords I have a stand that will handle about any size Ford engine.
I have made small changes at times to run a SBC. ( I had an early 327 on the floor and built it for my 27 T bucket )
Anyway look into the run stand thing.
I am enjoying watching your build, keep it up man.
Work Safe, Be Well
Stay Warm
"Torque patterns" and "increments" or you will break more bolts. tightening starts in middle loosening starts at ends.
Guessing you guys Passed the 4 way inspection?!?! I see insulation on the Walls!!!
In my experience with synthetic oil, they are great after 2500 miles 500 is too soon. I have used a decent oil for the initial startup and cam break in. Then I drain it put in a good oil and run the first 500 miles. Then drain and put good oil in drive to 2500 miles then drain and fill with good synthetic oil. Your rings will seat in, and you will have a good broken in engine. As for the assemble lube has been around my 60 years, they have a thicker viscosity, so it clings the parts longer than straight oil and helps with the initial startup. keep up the great videos.
In "olden days" we used STP on the parts during assembly....
Just out of curiosity, did you use any plastigage to check the bearing crush after torquing down either main or rod bearings. The two things that always that can be the hidden problems that you alluded to weeks or months down the road after assembling the engine are a broken ring from not having them all completely compressed when tapping the pistons into the block. And the other is too much clearance between the bearings and the crankshaft. Unfortunately, you really can’t do much about the rings but you can use the platigage to check to be sure that you have proper bearing crush and by checking the crush. I’m pretty sure that it’s still used and it’s just a suggestion for piece of mind. Good luck moving forward.
Totally not my thing...suggest less talking from anyone but Trent.... too many comments that are just not needed.
You didn’t mention it so I’m wondering if you checked the ring end gaps before installing the piston assemblies?
I wonder if your machine shop or a nearby engine shop would run a dyno on the engine before you put it in the truck? Might be good to know if any problems exist before the engine is buried in the truck... (to be fair, I don't think you'll have any problems, you were being incredibly meticulous, but if you really didn't want to wait, there are options to find out sooner.)
trent i have rebuilt mostly chevrolet engines and I NEVER EVER try to dry start one without sticking a drill on the oil pump shaft and spinning it until oil runs freely through the entire block..just my 2cents. enjoy the build and when the day it first lights up there is a feeling of euphoria like none other. 🙂
Looks good to me. I always put the crankshaft in dry with the bearings, then torque the cap bolts using plasti gage. Then take all of the caps back off and check the oil clearance between the bearing and the crankshaft by reading the plasti gage. I've learned not to trust that bearings are made correctly, because like all mass produced things, they're sometimes not, and if you get one that's too tight, it can spell disaster, and too lose will hurt oil pressure. Once I've done that, I put the crankshaft in as you did, and depending on if I'm going to use the engine right away or if it could sit awhile, I've used the same assembly lube you did, I've used stp, I've used Vaseline, and I've used red n tacky bearing grease. As you torque each main cap, give the crankshaft a turn, this way if you have a tight one, or if something binds, you'll know which cap to close in on and check out. Then, when you're putting the rings on the pistons, you need to check the ring gaps by putting the piston in the cylinder straight and checking the gap with a feeler gauge. If the gap is too tight, you can file one end of the ring to open the gap up. Ring gap is important because it allows for temperature. If the gap is too tight, the ends could meet and damage the piston and possibly the cylinder wall. You said something about a turbo or super charger, so you'll want to loosen the ring gaps to the loose end of the specs. The bearings and oil clearances, ring gaps, as well as the piston to cylinder wall clearances may have already been checked at the machine shop, and most of the time they're ok, but then there's that one time they're not that comes to bite you! The only other thing is you need to pay attention to where your ring gaps line up on the piston. The bottom 2 rings are oil control rings, and I like to line the gaps up 180⁰ from each other, then the bottom compression ring 90⁰ from the oil ring gap and the top ring 180⁰ from that. Also, some rings have a taper built into them, so there is a top and a bottom, and usually there is a dot indicating the top somewhere near the ring end. All ring manufacturers are different in how they want that done, and there should be instructions on that packed with your rings, if there is no marking, then there is no top or bottom, and it can go either way. You also need to assembly lube or oil the piston skirts for the same reason that you lube the rings, there won't be any oil getting to them at first, and you don't want a seizure. Spin the engine over a few times and make sure nothing is binding. There is also a spec for crankshaft end play that you should check once everything is together, as well as side clearances between the rods and each other and the crankshaft journals.
Wow that got long, and you might already know alot of it, sorry for the novel.
the use of conventual oil is for ring seating. most modern rings today are chrome or chrome moly. there seating is critical and improper oil can keep them from seating. for me engine break-in is accomplished within the 1st hour of running. my break-in go like this, start engine check over quickly for any leaks, none found get engine rpm to above 1500 for at least 15 minutes. this rpm is critical for proper camshaft lubrication and break-in. be sure and monitor engine oil pressure and coolant temperature. after this procedure if older engine can set timing and any other adjustment that need to be made. now for the drive period, need a stretch of road where can get to over 70 mph at least safely and with least amount of traffic. on drive i get to 50 mph then hard acceleration (floor it) this low vacuum and more air to engine. maintain hard acceleration to 70mph, let of throttle for extreme vacuum to engine. stay on decel until reach 50 mph. then repeat 3-4 times. this procedure is to seat piston rings. some people claim this is hard on engine, but to me seats rings quicker this way. also if it blows it was going to blow anyway. retired auto machinist of 16 years and auto tech for the remaining years to retirement. performed this procedure on every engine i have rebuild or replace with new engine. never had 1 blow-up
You should plastic gauge all the bearing. To check the bearing clearances
Did you check the Ring end Gap ? they usually are corect but you just do not know without checking . Love your videos
What you said about the side bolts..
Check on 65. 427 fe ford big block
DID away with the tang because when it spun a bearing the tang would destroy the block