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1X UPGRADE: Chain Line Issues/Shimano Dust Cap Removal (without tool)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 ต.ค. 2020
- Converting to a 1x drivetrain on an older bike can be tricky. This video addresses some alignment issues I encountered, and how I corrected them. I will also show you how to remove a Shimano dust cap without a special tool! Keep the stoke alive! ✌ Hit SUBSCRIBE for more trails & vids!
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Ideally for 1x you want a chain line of 47-49mm for non-boost 135/142 rear axle spacing. Boost frames 141/148 will use 52-54mm. Shimano specs there newer 1x cranksets at 52mm which is too wide for older 135/142 frames. For threaded bottom brackets that use 2.5mm spacers, you can try moving one of the spacers to the non-drive side. This will reduce your chain line to 49.5mm. That's what I'm currently running on a Deore M5100 1x11 and seems to be working great. In fact, I don't have room to move the chainring any closer before it hits the frame. SRAM DUB uses offset chainrings. -6mm for non-boost (49mm) and -3mm for boost (52mm). Chain line is also dependent on your tire width. Running wide tires may require wider chain line in order for the chain to clear the tire.
I am just mounting M5100 groupset to my older frame and I believe I will have some problems. Will write in few days how it goes
Just use spacers on the ring
I have that bike changed to one-bi , left it as a 10 speed with an xtr 10speed shifter
I prefer 175 crankset I just can’t hammer the pedals as aggressive with 170.
I also tried shorter 60 mm stem
Ended up going back to the original 70mm but flipped it over Thompson Carbon trail bar custom wheels I-9 torch
Thing is dialed and it’s fast
27.7 with Chester’s on
thank u very much for the info.,
No problem. Thanks for watching!
That is also my problem on the 12 speed cogs
So you're supposed to keep that tab on the cranks near the bolts? I thought it was just for shipping or something and I took it out, what does it actually do?
Yes. That's the security/lock tab for the cranks. It prevents the crank from moving from its proper position if the left crank arm pinch bolts loosen up. Basically a last line of defense from what could be a catastrophic failure. I would highly advise replacing that as they are super cheap. Also, just as a general rule, I would suggest never removing any part/component if you're not 100% sure of what it is.
The black plastic tab in the crank arm is an alignment tab. There is a small hole in the spindle that is supposed to align with a peg on the tab when it's pressed down. This assures that the crank arm is placed on the spindle with enough spline engagement to keep it secure.
Hi i'm from México, where did you buy that crank? I need one of those whit 34T but i can't find it...saludos
I bought the whole drivetrain brand new off of Ebay. Just used a general search for "Shimano SLX drivetrain". They'll usually be available from a few different sellers although I haven't checked since COVID. I also saw different options for the number of teeth 32, 34, sometimes 36 as well.
@@jackattackoutdoors9797 Thank's
Drive side spacers leave one spacer. Dont put two.
You can start to move bottom bracket spacers on threaded bottom brackets. I suspect this Giant Trance has press fit bottom bracket so not sure it uses spacers.
Cool video.. So as a rule of thumb I think you're saying or literally said (pretty much) anytime you have a factory 3x, and you remove one or two rings, you are affectively moving the chainline out, away from the frame since the lone ring (whichever size, small, medium or large) will now rest in the default/original position of the largest ring?
Not necessarily. On a 3x setup, if you just remove the smallest and largest rings in the front, you'll be fine because the leftover middle ring sits in the middle position. So you will have access to all your gears in the rear without much chain crossing issue. The lone ring will rest in the same position as before. You didn't move it, you just removed the other rings. The problem here was I had a 2x system and removed the smaller front chainring. So when shifting into the granny gears in the rear (largest rear cogs), the chainline was extremely crossed because you would normally shift into your smaller ring up front first to even out the chainline. That is why I ended up just buying the correct 1x front chainring for my setup. It sits just about exactly between where the small and large rings did on my 2x setup, evening out the chainline and allowing access to all gears without too much chain crossing.
@@jackattackoutdoors9797 Awesome man, thanks so much for the response! I read a lot about this (chainline) last night and everything you just said made a lot of sense, and provided a slightly different example to what I knew before. Not sure what kind of bottom bracket you have, but if I ever have issues with this I might try a sealed cartridge cheap bb with either longer or shorter spindle length.
Glad that helped! I had the standard Shimano type BB. Good luck and I hope you get your setup dialed in.
@@jackattackoutdoors9797 Thanks a lot man!
@@jackattackoutdoors9797 excellent information, I have a shimano XT 3 speed crankset ( FC700). I guess it is a 2009-2008 production date, I am looking for do a 1x convertion from 3x9 , but I am afraid the chainline. This video was pretty cool, maybe I can try to pickup a SLX crankset instead of to ensure good chainline. thank you
Hi is it a Boost frame?
Non boost frame. This is a 2016 model Giant didn't make the Trance with a boost frame until the following year, 2017.
Just put 2 spacers on the non drive side this will solve your problem
It's not a dust cap, it's a bearing pre-load adjuster. Just buy the tool.
it's only very light pre-load, so I'm sure a butter knife is fine!