I know this is a old video but I want to thank you very much for the suggestion of using the trimmer more like a plane by only using half of it. Spend over an hour doing test pieces only to have it end in frustration. Came in from the garage and started watching videos before bed. Came across yours and immediately went back out to the garage to give it a try. Worked wonders. I was so happy I stayed in the garage till sun up working on my project.
I really appreciate the "fine touch" that you put on your work. Not many would do them, but I can tell you care about your work and how well it looks upon completion.
I experience the same problem with my Stanley as well. Going to try your, using just one side ‘top tip’ Peter. This storm up north is keeping my awake. So using the time to increase my skills that extra 1%. Thanks 👍
Great video. Thanks for sharing. Edge banding is a technique which I use already about 30 years (on average one time per 2 years or so) and I do it more or less the same way. Nevertheless I learned some new things. I was told in the past that the iron should be at maximum heat (positions as for ironing cotting). But using mainly white edge-banding for melamind particle board, I had some issues with darker spots (too hot) so I put a piece of paper between the iron and the edge banding. Decreasing the temperature is for sure a better way to go. Bringing the edge band to the correct width I do with a potato-peeler. That does not always give the best result. Last time edge banding was already some years ago. Need to practise it again. With your tips it'll go much better.
I think the temperature is quite different for various types of tape (and manufacturers) as well as a lot more critical with the timber edge banding. I've found a lower heat setting and giving it time for the heat to pass through the tape (over a larger area than the base of the iron) and moving the iron back and forth is much more effective. Cheers, David.
I did a lot of iron edge banding when i made a desk. I found that holding the iron stationary until the area under the iron had set (with a little squeeze out of the glue) and then moving the iron to the next position along worked better than trying to iron the edge banding like ironing a shirt. Also I used a wide sharp chisel held flat to the surface to trim the edge banding along the sides, and vertical to trim the ends, gave a sharper finish than a utility knife. I used a short piece of 2 inch cross section wood with rounded over edges to press down the edge banding after ironing and while still very hot. You can get a lot of pressure that which makes for a better bond. No fancy tools required!
Thank you Peter - that demonstration was incredibly helpful! We have a couple of worktops to edge - so I was trying to select the correct tool for the job.
I'm glad I hung on to an old iron with a heavy chrome-plated sole - it makes cleaning off the glue residue so much easier and has got a good thermal capacity. Don't know how much longer it'll last.
As you stated you don't do a lot of edge banding . The method you do is common place and as they say if it ain't broke don't fix it . Great vid a.p.u . Keep up the good work
In woodworking, there is usually no single right way to do things. There are often several wrong ways but a few right ways. What Peter shows here is a very good method. I particularly like covering the not-often seem edges - a sign of a good craftsman, rather than one who cuts pennies. Allied subject. Painting the edge of good MDF (generally not the papery stuff from the big sheds: I only use MrMDF and try to buy only Medite because of its consistently high quality) is not that difficult - it just takes time sanding, painting, sanding, painting etc. However, getting a good painting job on the edge of plywood is more difficult. Good birch plywood is easier than others but still a task. I veneer on edging; either wood veneer or a good quality melamine-y type. It gives a very good edge that can be slightly sanded to accept paint if needed. Good quality is a constant theme. I know that the big sheds are convenient but the quality is, generally, poor. Their MDF almost crumbles when cut and is just horrible to work with. The good quality stuff (mdf, plywood, structural timber) may -may - cost more at a local timber merchant but, when you break it down to a price per piece or a price per year of usability, any extra cost really isn’t there. As I write this (June 2021), we are in the midst of unparalleled rises in the costs of the more commonly used timber (again, mdf, ply and structural). It is now a good 50% more than a few months ago. Why is not absolutely certain; many theories about who is making a killing. But, I would bet that your local timber man is not making any more money. He/she has to think about what the timber has cost to buy but also about what it will cost to replace. To sell based on purchase price will bite you on the bum as, at some point, you will have stock bought at the higher price but the sales price will have fallen. That is why “old stock” should reflect current sales prices. Final point. For whatever reason, hardwoods here in the UK have not been as badly affected. It’s only the manufactured or processed timbers.
Done that some years ago with white chipboard melamine. Managed to get burnt a couple of times by forgetting how hot it gets and pressing a little bit down with the thumb. Chipboard edging never looks as neat as mdf, in my opinion. Great video.
Perhaps the reason it's hard to use the trimmer on both sides simultaneously is that one side goes with and the other against the grain. I use one too, and that's my theory. Usually one side is rougher than the other. What I learned most from your video is that I should put the shelf flat on the workbench overhanging to use the trimmer. Ha, ha, I've been balancing it vertically using handscrews, depending on shelf length. I started doing this before I had a proper workbench and just kept doing it that way. Plus, a woodblock is better than a roller.
I bought it from my local timber yard, but there’s loads on Amazon eg this one in oak, amzn.to/3RG3U1G, also available in 50 metres and other species if you have a larger project. 👍
Nice. I didn't know those edge trimmers exisited. I'd always hacked away with a Stanley blade or chisel or blunt penknife and made a bit of a mess of it!
Peter, do you use the same method for Birch edgeband veneer? I'm finding that it has a lot of reversing grain (more than for example the Sapele in your video), which results in tearing if the trimmer goes in the wrong direction.
I was also searching youtube for advice on birch too. First time I used it today and I ended up taking some chunks out of the edge banding. Other times I've used a similar tool, I've had no trouble...
You could use one of the seam rollers for wallpapering for applying the pressure. Have you ever tried the paintable edge banding for the edges of mdf before painting, have been thinking I might give it a try on my next project
I use a seam roller too. Another tip I use is to roll the iron over the edge slightly. I was told you get a better seal at the edge and help prevent peeling. Most of my edge banding is on ply so don't know whether this would "round" the MDF at all. Keep up the good work Peter and shame you won't be at Makers Central.
Peter I keep meaning to ask. The hand sander block you use. Is it homemade. I assume you use a standard round sanding disc attached? Couldn’t see it in the “stuff I use” link. Any info as ever would be appreciated. Dave
Nice easy job, looks good 👍 That sanding block/disk you use, is that a rubber sanding pad from an air tool with a draw handle attached? Bloody brilliant, if it is, if not, I'm still going to knock one up myself... Hehehe 👌
Thanks Bill. Pretty much, yes - it’s a worn sanding pad from an orbital sander with a drawer knob attached. Works great! That and a few more top tips in my Sanding Tips video #028 👍👍
Peter Millard thanks! One more thing, perhaps for a tip video... How do you get rid of the tiny 'glue thickness' gap between the edge banding and the shelf?
One key point is to look over the piece to determine which banding to put down first. They end up as butt joints, so you want to select which side to put down first. Not a big factor in this case as he was banding an invisible edge.
Good stuff, thanks. In preparation for a desk made out of melamine coated board, I looked at a few TH-cam videos on how best to address this without an edge banding machine. One of the best videos I found included tips on making the board you use to press the tape down after applying heat. Tod suggested rounding over the edges which enables you to apply a lot more pressure to the tape. Other useful ideas too, so check out his video: goo.gl/PzDQnL - Cheers, David
Thanks David - sorry for the slow reply, only just seen you were caught in the spam trap because of the link; I've been away and don't have access to it on mobile 👍
That's another good tip Peter - get an iron for the workshop. That way there is no risk that the steam function is turned on, or the heat set to max without you being aware, or that your wife finds adhesive on something she has just ironed!
Its so stupid that method when some others are just tape/peel and stik the iron is hard to use and if we have to do the job vertical like on a cabinet, welll we have only two hands...
I know this is a old video but I want to thank you very much for the suggestion of using the trimmer more like a plane by only using half of it. Spend over an hour doing test pieces only to have it end in frustration. Came in from the garage and started watching videos before bed. Came across yours and immediately went back out to the garage to give it a try. Worked wonders. I was so happy I stayed in the garage till sun up working on my project.
Thanks! Good to hear it helped! 👍👍
I really appreciate the "fine touch" that you put on your work. Not many would do them, but I can tell you care about your work and how well it looks upon completion.
Thanks!
THANK YOU for taking the time to show this in detail! Most TH-camrs tend to rush edge banding shots. Particularly the close up shots were very helpful
I experience the same problem with my Stanley as well. Going to try your, using just one side ‘top tip’ Peter. This storm up north is keeping my awake. So using the time to increase my skills that extra 1%. Thanks 👍
Yes, also feels better to use it like a plane, somehow. And yes! Dillon storm, blowing a gale down here too! 🤷♂️👍
Great video and straight to the point 👍
Great video. Thanks for sharing. Edge banding is a technique which I use already about 30 years (on average one time per 2 years or so) and I do it more or less the same way.
Nevertheless I learned some new things. I was told in the past that the iron should be at maximum heat (positions as for ironing cotting). But using mainly white edge-banding for melamind particle board, I had some issues with darker spots (too hot)
so I put a piece of paper between the iron and the edge banding. Decreasing the temperature is for sure a better way to go.
Bringing the edge band to the correct width I do with a potato-peeler. That does not always give the best result.
Last time edge banding was already some years ago. Need to practise it again. With your tips it'll go much better.
I think the temperature is quite different for various types of tape (and manufacturers) as well as a lot more critical with the timber edge banding. I've found a lower heat setting and giving it time for the heat to pass through the tape (over a larger area than the base of the iron) and moving the iron back and forth is much more effective. Cheers, David.
Thanks for explaining. This is very helpful to me.
Excellent tip about using the trimming tool, thanks for that.
Pleasure! I learned the hard way, no need for everyone to do that, lol! 😂👍👍
I did a lot of iron edge banding when i made a desk. I found that holding the iron stationary until the area under the iron had set (with a little squeeze out of the glue) and then moving the iron to the next position along worked better than trying to iron the edge banding like ironing a shirt. Also I used a wide sharp chisel held flat to the surface to trim the edge banding along the sides, and vertical to trim the ends, gave a sharper finish than a utility knife. I used a short piece of 2 inch cross section wood with rounded over edges to press down the edge banding after ironing and while still very hot. You can get a lot of pressure that which makes for a better bond. No fancy tools required!
Thank you Peter - that demonstration was incredibly helpful! We have a couple of worktops to edge - so I was trying to select the correct tool for the job.
Thanks Mary - glad to hear it helped. 👍👍
I'm glad I hung on to an old iron with a heavy chrome-plated sole - it makes cleaning off the glue residue so much easier and has got a good thermal capacity. Don't know how much longer it'll last.
As you stated you don't do a lot of edge banding . The method you do is common place and as they say if it ain't broke don't fix it . Great vid a.p.u . Keep up the good work
Yet another great video. Thank you, i thoroughly enjoy your work.
Cheers Sean 👍
In woodworking, there is usually no single right way to do things. There are often several wrong ways but a few right ways. What Peter shows here is a very good method. I particularly like covering the not-often seem edges - a sign of a good craftsman, rather than one who cuts pennies.
Allied subject. Painting the edge of good MDF (generally not the papery stuff from the big sheds: I only use MrMDF and try to buy only Medite because of its consistently high quality) is not that difficult - it just takes time sanding, painting, sanding, painting etc. However, getting a good painting job on the edge of plywood is more difficult. Good birch plywood is easier than others but still a task. I veneer on edging; either wood veneer or a good quality melamine-y type. It gives a very good edge that can be slightly sanded to accept paint if needed.
Good quality is a constant theme. I know that the big sheds are convenient but the quality is, generally, poor. Their MDF almost crumbles when cut and is just horrible to work with. The good quality stuff (mdf, plywood, structural timber) may -may - cost more at a local timber merchant but, when you break it down to a price per piece or a price per year of usability, any extra cost really isn’t there.
As I write this (June 2021), we are in the midst of unparalleled rises in the costs of the more commonly used timber (again, mdf, ply and structural). It is now a good 50% more than a few months ago. Why is not absolutely certain; many theories about who is making a killing. But, I would bet that your local timber man is not making any more money. He/she has to think about what the timber has cost to buy but also about what it will cost to replace. To sell based on purchase price will bite you on the bum as, at some point, you will have stock bought at the higher price but the sales price will have fallen. That is why “old stock” should reflect current sales prices.
Final point. For whatever reason, hardwoods here in the UK have not been as badly affected. It’s only the manufactured or processed timbers.
Done that some years ago with white chipboard melamine. Managed to get burnt a couple of times by forgetting how hot it gets and pressing a little bit down with the thumb. Chipboard edging never looks as neat as mdf, in my opinion. Great video.
Thanks! Yes, if you’re not very careful the texture of the chipboard can come through, whereas MDF is super-smooth, of course 👍👍
great tutorial thanks
Perhaps the reason it's hard to use the trimmer on both sides simultaneously is that one side goes with and the other against the grain. I use one too, and that's my theory. Usually one side is rougher than the other. What I learned most from your video is that I should put the shelf flat on the workbench overhanging to use the trimmer. Ha, ha, I've been balancing it vertically using handscrews, depending on shelf length. I started doing this before I had a proper workbench and just kept doing it that way. Plus, a woodblock is better than a roller.
Thanks Peter, spot on.
If the edge banding you used was in your linked shopping items I'm afraid i couldn't find it. Any pointers?
I bought it from my local timber yard, but there’s loads on Amazon eg this one in oak, amzn.to/3RG3U1G, also available in 50 metres and other species if you have a larger project. 👍
Thanks a lot. Really inspirig
Nice job Peter, as always 👍
Thanks! 👍
Don't forget to do your shirts while you got the iron out Peter .
😂👍
Nice. I didn't know those edge trimmers exisited. I'd always hacked away with a Stanley blade or chisel or blunt penknife and made a bit of a mess of it!
The Stanley’s really good - I had another brand but it was nothing like as good a cut 👍
Another great video, share some love for the badger workshop and my good friend Keith Brown....
Thanks! And always, great channels 👍👍
That palm sander is genius
Thanks! 👍
Nice video very clear goodwork love it 😊
Thanks! 👍
Great video as allways
Thanks! 👍
Peter, do you use the same method for Birch edgeband veneer? I'm finding that it has a lot of reversing grain (more than for example the Sapele in your video), which results in tearing if the trimmer goes in the wrong direction.
Never used Birch edgebanding I’m afraid. 🤷♂️👍
I was also searching youtube for advice on birch too. First time I used it today and I ended up taking some chunks out of the edge banding. Other times I've used a similar tool, I've had no trouble...
You could use one of the seam rollers for wallpapering for applying the pressure. Have you ever tried the paintable edge banding for the edges of mdf before painting, have been thinking I might give it a try on my next project
I found it much easier to get even pressure with a block of scrapwood tbh. And no, never tried then taped edges for painting - it’s on my list too 😆👍👍
I use a seam roller too. Another tip I use is to roll the iron over the edge slightly. I was told you get a better seal at the edge and help prevent peeling. Most of my edge banding is on ply so don't know whether this would "round" the MDF at all. Keep up the good work Peter and shame you won't be at Makers Central.
Thanks Steve. Yes, it’s a shame - if you go, enjoy it! 👍
Just printed my tickets for tomorrow
Peter I keep meaning to ask. The hand sander block you use. Is it homemade. I assume you use a standard round sanding disc attached? Couldn’t see it in the “stuff I use” link. Any info as ever would be appreciated. Dave
Thanks Dave. I’ve done a couple of videos on these, this is the most recent - Hand Sanding Pads, th-cam.com/video/jeAGbrowJS4/w-d-xo.html 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop thanks Peter. Not made it to that video yet. But making my way through.
Use exactly the same method myself👍👍👍👍👍👍
Why change a winning formula?? 👍👍😆😆
Super 👍
Nice easy job, looks good 👍
That sanding block/disk you use, is that a rubber sanding pad from an air tool with a draw handle attached?
Bloody brilliant, if it is, if not, I'm still going to knock one up myself... Hehehe 👌
Thanks Bill. Pretty much, yes - it’s a worn sanding pad from an orbital sander with a drawer knob attached. Works great! That and a few more top tips in my Sanding Tips video #028 👍👍
Peter Millard sweet, cheers for that, mate👌
apologies, I couldn't find it your list of used tools; what is that circular sander with the wooden handle that you used? Looks really useful.
It is, very. It’s an old sanding base from an orbital sander, with a cabinet knob attached. That and a few more in my Sanding Tips video #028
What do You do about the white adhesive line showing at the ends there?
great camera work, as always. Interesting to see it done, not as difficult as i thought. Thanks for the video, keep up the good work.
Thanks Lee 👍👍
Excellent as always! Newbie question: is that a 'real wood' veneer, so it would take an oil or a stain?
Thanks! And yes, absolutely a wood veneer, takes the same finish as the board, no problem. 👍
Peter Millard thanks! One more thing, perhaps for a tip video... How do you get rid of the tiny 'glue thickness' gap between the edge banding and the shelf?
I just sand them back carefully, from the veneered edge towards the flat face of the board. The watch-word here is “carefully” 👍👍😎
👍👍
One key point is to look over the piece to determine which banding to put down first. They end up as butt joints, so you want to select which side to put down first. Not a big factor in this case as he was banding an invisible edge.
Does the trimmer work ok against the grain of the veneer Pete??
Yes, works absolutely fine. 👍
Pukka video , cheers 🍻
Thanks! 👍👍
Nice
👍
Where do you buy that product what is it called.
I bought mine though a supplier on eBay - there’s lots - and it’s called iron-on veneer edgeband 👍
Ah, the Dutch joiner Meneer Veneer Edgebanding.
😂😂👍👍
That's a job I really dislike and, as well as being burnt sometimes, I get no satisfaction from it. But, hey ho, life goes on! :-)
So you don't use the iron's steam function then. :)
Only if you’re edgebanding with Linen 😂👍
Good stuff, thanks. In preparation for a desk made out of melamine coated board, I looked at a few TH-cam videos on how best to address this without an edge banding machine. One of the best videos I found included tips on making the board you use to press the tape down after applying heat. Tod suggested rounding over the edges which enables you to apply a lot more pressure to the tape. Other useful ideas too, so check out his video: goo.gl/PzDQnL - Cheers, David
Thanks David - sorry for the slow reply, only just seen you were caught in the spam trap because of the link; I've been away and don't have access to it on mobile 👍
You are gonna be in so much trouble if your wife sees the video. I'm sure she has no idea where her iron goes.
😂 That’s my Workshop iron - I’d be a dead man if I used the household iron, lol!
That's another good tip Peter - get an iron for the workshop. That way there is no risk that the steam function is turned on, or the heat set to max without you being aware, or that your wife finds adhesive on something she has just ironed!
Its so stupid that method when some others are just tape/peel and stik the iron is hard to use and if we have to do the job vertical like on a cabinet, welll we have only two hands...