Ever thought about holding classes? I've got to say Jon, you are a great teacher. Very clear, concise explanations and really easy to listen to - I always learn something from your videos. Thanks for doing what you do. It's great!
It is nice idea to cover these sheet on table tops, walls or other places. especially old woods and house hold old items. the furniture are very beautiful what you made.
Another great video! I really appreciate adding some pricing of materials in this one. I know pricing varies across the country but it’s still nice to see. And the veneer vs species plywood explanation was very insightful. Thanks Jon!
You got me with that one! As you made that first cross cut I was holding my breath thinking, “I hope he measured correctly”, then the zinger! You should have added a rimshot. Love your work and great narration.
Jon - I never write negative comments, but I have to put this out there. I just tried this method with contact cement and it was an epic failure. Thank god it wasn't a piece that had to be delivered to a client. The piece looked amazing in the shop, contact cement bonded well etc. BUT once it got into the house, the veneers shrank up and pulled back from the edge of the substrate by a good 1/16" on either side. I used MDF and Baltic Birch as substrates for this project, veneered both sides just to be safe. I used 20 mil paper backed veneer. Same issues with both substrates. Apparently contact cement is a very flexible "glue". In the past I've done veneering with shop sawn veneers, Titebond 2 or 3 and a vacuum bag - none of which I can do in my current shop, so I tried this instead. I'm dying to know how those pieces you showed have held up once exposed to humidity changes.
Substantially more money in solid wood versus sheet products. Depends on the species in question. For walnut, probably three times more as the other person commented.
For me it’s not about the money as much as options in design. When using plywood and veneer you really don’t need to consider expansion and contraction in the same way you as you do with solid wood.
@@JonPetersArtHome Maybe it’s just me but I’ve built many pieces of solid wood furniture; tables of all sorts, blanket chests, etc. primarily of walnut, cherry and maple, and never had a problem with wood movement. All these pieces are still solid and intact after more than twenty years. (Many of these tables have incorporated bread board ends attached only with biscuit joints.) it’s not that I think wood movement is non-existent, just that I’ve never experienced it. I have never used veneer because of its complexity and, in most cases, need for vacuum equipment.
I was about to ask the same question. I have worked with wood on wood backing and the backing wood would be very noticeable if done it as “butt joint” type. That was the reason to add the banding after the veneering of the panels. I would like to try the paper backing for my next project.
I see that you usually use solid wood for the front and backs of your pieces. Is it cost, because it's not a large amount and it's faster than veneering strips? Is it durability? Both? Neither? I'm thinking about making my first piece and all else equal, I'd rather use just veneer, rather than veneer + having to find matching solid wood. I don't mind if it takes longer, but I would mind if it were to quickly delaminate and look crap...
@@gudrune it’s difficult to get good miters with the veneer process… you can apply the veneer to solid wood strips so the wood will match. I did that on a bedside table a few months ago… the project is on my channel
It's easier to build square boxes and then cover up exposed edges with veneer, versus cutting long miter joints for grain continuity in walnut plywood. Doing miters in plywood is especially difficult because you don't have much material to remove for imperfect miters, nor are miters easiest to glue up with or without a cupped piece of plywood. Furthermore, plywoods that have a face veneer of different wood species aren't always available readily. Most common furniture plywood is maple faced, oak, or birch. Cherry in some cases.
@@Roct3874 i'm referring to the vernacular in woodwork, when we say "10 mil" we mean 10mm or 100 mil we mean 100mm as used in every day communication. As you lot over there still use yards/feet/inches and of course 10 mil in imperial is exactly what you say. We've been metric for yonks so its all different….. (I still like imperial but you can't use both) Thanks for taking the time to reply. cheers mate
OK,OK,OK Jon... not a full build video but, I'll give you credit for one. Approx. 22+ weeks left in the year so conservatively you can build us 15 projects. Oh, I freakin kill myself Man!! Great video Bud. Hoping all is well, Dirty Jersey out!!!
For 600 dollars, I'll buy you round-trip plane tickets to Turkey, make 3 desks of that size out of real walnut, party hard for 2 days and send you and the desks back with cash to spare. How the hell you accept paying 600$ per sheet for that crap is beyond me.
Thanks for all the great tips Jon! I'm sure your client will be thrilled with that piece. It's BEAUTIFUL!
Ever thought about holding classes? I've got to say Jon, you are a great teacher. Very clear, concise explanations and really easy to listen to - I always learn something from your videos. Thanks for doing what you do. It's great!
It is nice idea to cover these sheet on table tops, walls or other places. especially old woods and house hold old items. the furniture are very beautiful what you made.
Always classy, Jon Peters. I appreciate the craftsmanship and the explanation at the end.
Another great video! I really appreciate adding some pricing of materials in this one. I know pricing varies across the country but it’s still nice to see. And the veneer vs species plywood explanation was very insightful. Thanks Jon!
Off topic Speaking of pricing .
Just looked at /bought some 6x6 Douglas fir. 13 @6ft 2@ 8ft
27 bux a ft😂😂
I hope you heard me yell when you said that you cut it an inch short. Other than that, I enjoyed your video. Thank you!
I literally gasped, and then I thought, “Good for you, Jon. Show us that you’re human!”
You got me with that one! As you made that first cross cut I was holding my breath thinking, “I hope he measured correctly”, then the zinger! You should have added a rimshot. Love your work and great narration.
I'm building a figured Clairol walnut acoustic guitar. The wood is a pleasure to work with! Thanks for the show!
looks fabulous, great use of the materials, really works well with the design.
Beautiful work as always, Jon!
Nice build John! You nailed the benefits of veneer, especially when you are doing a higher end project. Cheers, kudos, good work!
Thanks Pete
Jon - I never write negative comments, but I have to put this out there. I just tried this method with contact cement and it was an epic failure. Thank god it wasn't a piece that had to be delivered to a client. The piece looked amazing in the shop, contact cement bonded well etc. BUT once it got into the house, the veneers shrank up and pulled back from the edge of the substrate by a good 1/16" on either side. I used MDF and Baltic Birch as substrates for this project, veneered both sides just to be safe. I used 20 mil paper backed veneer. Same issues with both substrates. Apparently contact cement is a very flexible "glue". In the past I've done veneering with shop sawn veneers, Titebond 2 or 3 and a vacuum bag - none of which I can do in my current shop, so I tried this instead. I'm dying to know how those pieces you showed have held up once exposed to humidity changes.
In 20 years I’ve never had a problem with veneer. I’ll post a revisit to some of the projects sometime in the next few weeks.
Great tips. Great desk. Thanks, Jon
How much money is saved by using a veneer vs the solid wood? With and without the cost of labor installing the veneer.
Probably 3 times more expensive.
@@billballeza377 Thanks a lot for your reply :)
Substantially more money in solid wood versus sheet products. Depends on the species in question. For walnut, probably three times more as the other person commented.
For me it’s not about the money as much as options in design. When using plywood and veneer you really don’t need to consider expansion and contraction in the same way you as you do with solid wood.
@@JonPetersArtHome
Maybe it’s just me but I’ve built many pieces of solid wood furniture; tables of all sorts, blanket chests, etc. primarily of walnut, cherry and maple, and never had a problem with wood movement. All these pieces are still solid and intact after more than twenty years. (Many of these tables have incorporated bread board ends attached only with biscuit joints.) it’s not that I think wood movement is non-existent, just that I’ve never experienced it. I have never used veneer because of its complexity and, in most cases, need for vacuum equipment.
Hmmmm…. My Bestie Takeaway was butt jointed rather than Mitred corners possible when you simply veneer the faux Mitred look! Makes a lot of sense!
If they have board stretchers I someone out there makes veneer stretchers for those 1"-short cuts.
Nice! how noticeable is the paper backing after routing, sanding and finish?
I was about to ask the same question. I have worked with wood on wood backing and the backing wood would be very noticeable if done it as “butt joint” type. That was the reason to add the banding after the veneering of the panels. I would like to try the paper backing for my next project.
Thanks William. The paper once the project is sanded and finished is completely unnoticeable
Jon, duck boots in August? I had no idea that summer weather for you was so rough. Dang!
😂 I just don’t like getting my feet wet on the walk out to the barn.
Wow that's some nice stuff. Well done.
what type of ise glue
Cool. Really enjoyed it.
How thick is that veneer? It seemed more substantial.
Great info, Jon.
Great job.
Great info. Thank you sir for sharing.
Great job!
Very nice, as asually. Thanks for sharing!
thanks
I see that you usually use solid wood for the front and backs of your pieces. Is it cost, because it's not a large amount and it's faster than veneering strips? Is it durability? Both? Neither? I'm thinking about making my first piece and all else equal, I'd rather use just veneer, rather than veneer + having to find matching solid wood. I don't mind if it takes longer, but I would mind if it were to quickly delaminate and look crap...
@@gudrune it’s difficult to get good miters with the veneer process… you can apply the veneer to solid wood strips so the wood will match. I did that on a bedside table a few months ago… the project is on my channel
Jon, I noticed you did not install bumpers or levelers at the bottom, was this by design?
I plan to felt pads
Love it 😀
I'm curious why you use veneer instead of veneered plywood? Is it due to cost, or just the variety of veneers available?
It's easier to build square boxes and then cover up exposed edges with veneer, versus cutting long miter joints for grain continuity in walnut plywood. Doing miters in plywood is especially difficult because you don't have much material to remove for imperfect miters, nor are miters easiest to glue up with or without a cupped piece of plywood. Furthermore, plywoods that have a face veneer of different wood species aren't always available readily. Most common furniture plywood is maple faced, oak, or birch. Cherry in some cases.
I don’t like to see the edge banding, and by using Veneer, The edge banding is hidden I explain a few other reasons at the end of the video
Did you veneer under the top? Worried about warping?
No I’ve never had a problem using Baltic Birch plywood
Jon! what kind of butt joint did you used for that project?
Biscuit joint?
Glue and 1.3/4 screws
10mm paper back?
I think is 3mm...
Standard is 10 mil paper back which is about 1/64 of an inch
@@Roct3874 ok thanks, here in the UK we measure paper thickness by GSM. You foxed me as we are metric, 10 mil is regarded as 10mm!
@@davidstevensasidewayslook8831 Are you sure because 10 mil is 10 thousandth of an inch not mm and converts to .254mm.
@@Roct3874 i'm referring to the vernacular in woodwork, when we say "10 mil" we mean 10mm or 100 mil we mean 100mm as used in every day communication. As you lot over there still use yards/feet/inches and of course 10 mil in imperial is exactly what you say. We've been metric for yonks so its all different….. (I still like imperial but you can't use both) Thanks for taking the time to reply. cheers mate
Why no shots with the finish?
Beautiful work 👍
Boa noit jon
OK,OK,OK Jon... not a full build video but, I'll give you credit for one. Approx. 22+ weeks left in the year so conservatively you can build us 15 projects. Oh, I freakin kill myself Man!! Great video Bud. Hoping all is well, Dirty Jersey out!!!
In 2022 I’m going to announced that I plan to post two full furniture builds this year. Kind of an under promise and over deliver type thing 😂👍
💯👍
Inch short, don't do that !!! I nearly had a coronary.
Ha ha ha sorry 😂
For 600 dollars, I'll buy you round-trip plane tickets to Turkey, make 3 desks of that size out of real walnut, party hard for 2 days and send you and the desks back with cash to spare. How the hell you accept paying 600$ per sheet for that crap is beyond me.
@@dogukancil5128 maybe you can find something at the dollar store
@@JonPetersArtHomeSays the guy veneering plywood. The irony :)
@@dogukancil5128says the guy who doesn’t have clean drinking water or an economy. 🤡