5. How to drape a basic ladies' jacket, the sleeve - by bespoke tailor Sten Martin
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 18 ก.ย. 2024
- Info on my new online fashion course at ScandinavianTai...
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Showing how to use anti-industrial tailoring techniques. As part of The Depression Crisp Philosophy - how to do the best with what you got, and still strive for style and creativity - this video is made with a simple laptop-camera.
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Questions can be sent to StenMartin@StenMartin.com and feel free to follow on Twitter, Instagram, Google+ and Facebook. Just search for StenMartin (or DTTA - The Tailoring Academy).
Oh, this just made my day! Thank you so much for all the kind words. And yes, I think it's important not to complicate things - tailors have used these techniques for centuries, even before measuring tapes and technology, so why should it be more complicated today? I think maybe the problem lays with the teachers, no? Good luck! And I'm proud to have you as my viewer.
Thank you for sharing your skills to dressing all women. We are helping women from war-torn communities who need special adaptations to their clothing for the loss of limbs or other physical damage. You have made that possible even for students with limited language skills.
This is the first video I have seen that has explained so clearly how to draft a sleeve. I am so happy to have the series. Many thanks.
Hi Sten, Your tutorials are great. I am an amateur sewer in Japan but I can understand because of your clear English.
How nice of you to say so, Forka! Thank you so much!
Yes, correct Marcus! Well done. But you could also use the fabric pieces you just draped as a pattern. A pattern in fabric is more durable and can be pinned in and ironed flat over and over again without disintegrating.
You just turned my day into a much better one! Thanks for watching!
Hello Sten, I am an amateur sewer and I thank you for your videos, not only are they very helpful, but you make it all seem so easy. I am making my first ladies jacket and with the help of your videos I feel more confident that i can do it. Thanks again...an wish me luck :)....
I really do feel honored! Many thanks for your comment, Bonnie! Glad I could help.
I'm glad you liked them! Thank you for watching, jackieo12345!
I'm glad you liked it, Mohja! Thank you!
So nice of you to say so! Much appreciated.
Sten thanks a lot for all those videos I love draping so much ! Your smile is just so sweet for learning it ^^
Hi Sten, I have been so inspired and motivated by your videos. Thank you so much for all the love and time you put in these videos to share with us!
I am so excited that I draped my first sleeve today using your video as my guide! I have recommended them all over social media to my sewing friends. Thank you, thank you. I will say that when I started, I measured my bicep + ease and my wrist+ease and drew a diagonal line the length of the sleeve block between the two. This gave me a guide for pinning the initial tube. Those of us who are amateurs need grainlines and crosslines, too, but the rest was ALL YOU!
your amazing, i have been looking for tutorials here in YT but was not good enough,until i found yours,can't wait to make my own jacket..Thank you so much...
Sten you are awesome! Can't thank you enough for these amazingly clear videos :)
What a nice compliment Kate! You just made my day!
Thank you so much!! This is so excellent; you're a better teacher than some of the ones at my design school!
I love the way you teach....I will listen and do all that you teach for better execution..Thank you soooo much....
So glad you liked them! Thanks!
It is a simple, and easy to understand the very complicated principle technique if it is done by 2D. You are very knowledgeable, and professional in explaining. Thank you very much
You just made the sun shine so much brighter over here! Thank you for making my day, Thu!
Thank you very much, Sten! This is a beautiful jacket. I will love to make this! It is almost exact to a beautiful vintage black silk shantung jacket from the 1950s I wore all the time. My favorite jacket! Because it was old it did rip next to the bottom armhole on the back panel where there was stress. Now I can make it again God willing. Thanks. You are a blessing and great teacher! God bless. :-)
Also ha ha ha. I had this jacket attending design school where I had to relocate to. Westwood Village, Los Angeles. No relocating anymore thanks to you! :-)
+Heidi H - Such a wonderful story Heidi! Thank you for sharing it! Sometimes garments just give you that plesent feeling of ccomfort and pride. Isn't that great? Good luck with your project! And thank you for all your kind words - I will surly treasure them in my heart.
Oh thank you! And yes, the fabric I use in the video is muslin. But any fabric would do as long as it reminds in the drape of the main fabric you want to use later on.
I use white since it shows anything wrong very clearly. And I often use something a bit stiffer than the fabric I want in the actual garment, since it's easier to pin in.
Your draping videos are so inspiring.Thank you for taking the time and make ease to follow instructions.i have not done draping since 20 years and now by watching you I can wait to go back to my dress form and start all over again.You are the best teacher.Thank you so much.
Martin, you are my hero. The best explanation for this by far, you saved me. I just started draping and was always difficult with the sleeves; but now i get it, thanks to you. Keep up the good work and thank you.
I have been looking for sleeve draping.... You r amazing sir .... Thank u a lot .. Keep up...
Thank you so much Lisa! You made me very proud.
Thanks! Yes I have. I'm glad you liked it!
I'ts a lightweight wool shirt-jacket where the body is one continues piece of fabric, and the lapels are made of pleats and folds and a single raw cut into the fabric to simulate a notched collar. I actually make all the clothes I'm wearing - including coats, sweaters, socks, underwear, swim- and sportswear. A project I've been on for 845 days now. The only thing I don't make but still wearing, are my shoes.
Ahhh, you're a genius, and with such a good teaching manner. Thank you.
wow! you are really good. this way to do the sleeves looks easier than the conventional ones. you are a nice man. thank you for your help.
+Camilo Caballero Such a lovely comment Camilo! Thank you so much! My pleasure!
Thank you for the videos, I love them, I'm not so scared to try my own designs now, you are very easy to follow, and explain things very well.
How nice of you to say so kernowrose1! Thank you and good luck with your projects!
I am new to your channel and I would just like to say that I love your style of teaching and techniques! Amazing instructor and excellent draper! The darts are perfect and the muslin fits the silhouette of the dress form beautifully! Would you mind making a video of how to sew the basic ladies' jacket? That would be very helpful once I finish the pattern for the basic ladies' jacket! Thank you for providing us with your tutorials!
Hello Vinneva! Thank you for your comment! How very nice of you.
Unfortunately I haven't found a practical way to show how to sew all the drapes yet in a relatively quick way - a quick edited video way that is. So for now, there will just be draping videos in this series. But, who knows? Maybe there will be a solution for this too soon...? Let's see.
you are the best Sten,i wanted to watch everything tonight but,i got to sleep so i'm continue tomorrow,thanks for posting this.
What a lovely comment! Thank you so much TheMeliaz!
I started sewing over 50 years ago - taught by my mum. I tended to just cut according to the pattern and sew hoping that it was OK. I need to learn how to fit properly. Wonderful to be able to watch an expert and to learn the correct way.
Thank you Marcus! Yes I did make the jacket. It's kind of special to me since the body is made out of just one pattern piece only - front, back, collar and facing included - all just pleated in place. And it's quite deconstructed since I wanted a very light jacket. (As a funny note I even ran a 9 km run in it, just to prove that jackets can be quite comfortable, even for sports. Afterwards I machine washed it, and was ready to go again.)
Thanks! So appreciated! I wish you the best of luck.
Thank you MegaKeichan! Much appreciated!
Thank you Maureen! So nice of you to say so!
Thank you Gabby! Good luck - and do let me here how it goes.
So nice of you to say so! Thank you!
I took draping classes at Parson NYC but never saw draping 2 piece sleeve.im so excited I can't whait to try myself thank youSo much
Thank you for your kind words! And thank you for watching!
When you say "correct / move to a flat pattern", I assume you mean how to transfer the drape into a pattern? If that's correct, this is what you do:
First be sure to mark all your seams (lines and pinning) on your draped sleeve. Also be sure to have your fitting marks done - at the shoulder, under the arm, at the front and at the back. Then remove all the pins, iron the pieces flat, and redraw your lines more fluidly. There! All done.
Ah! It comes quite natural for me... Thanks!
Thank you Rosalind!
1) Good question! And there are many different answers. Originally the grainline should be the same as the thread of the fabric you draped, usually from the top of your sleeve cap vertically down, ending roughly at the middle of the sleeve hem. You could also focus on a horizontal line over the cap when placed on the jacket, and then make it 90 degrees to this.
2) A princess line would make the jacket's bust softer. Or, multiple darts. More darts or seams makes a softer look.
My pleasure! Thank you for your comment!
I've learned how to draft a flat pattern for a sleeve and have always wanted to learn how to drape one as well as a bodice, etc. These tutorials are so helpful. Thank you so much for sharing this. I can't wait to try draping a sleeve.
i see your videos in medellin Colombia, thank you so much
Hi. Thank you for your videos. Because of them I've made my wedding dress exactly the way I want it it thank you so much. I used your sleeve video and skirt one. I can't wait to wear my dress next weekend. Thank you thank you. !!
You are a very gifted man. I did not know it was possible to drape a fitted sleeve like this....oh my life!!! Thank you : )
Jasmin Andrews Thank you Jasmin! I'm glad you liked the technique - after having done sleeves with 2D design routines (pattern-making) for decades, I thought it was time to make things a bit easier and in plain 3D (draping). Probably not for everybody of course, but maybe for us that care about a good solid shape and the ability to create new things. Right?
You are a talented tailor -- it is not so easy what You did.
My pleasure!
Thank you soo much! You are a very talented and big hearted person! Your videos helped and inspired me a lot when I teach my students how to drape. Thanks again!
+Duygu Atalay - I'm so glad I could help Duygu! Thank you for your kind words!
Hi frogmarch1000!
This is a tricky question indeed. There has been written books on this subject. Basically the notches are markings to be transferred to your fabric, to make the sleeve "setting" and pattern matching easier. BUT, if you alter anything on your design, you probably will be in trouble.
The main rule (if there is one) is that the sleeve should fit smoothly (equal) UNDER your notches. And ABOVE them you have your ease - that the sleeve have a larger roundness than the armscye.
Thank you for saying so! Appreciated!
Great videos I am a excellent seamtress but learned so much from you Video Thanks
Just great tutorial. Thank you
Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge. Now I know why there are sleeves and 'Sleeves'! Thanks again!
+EuphemiaGrubb - Thank you so much! My pleasure!
Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge and giving us so much help. You are an excellent person and I would love to know you.
Hi Mohja!
Well, I don't know about the stretched lace. I wouldn't do that. The risk for the lace pulling the fabric underneath is for me too... well, risky.
If it is to be doubling the other fabric, following into the same seams, I would cut the lace slightly bigger and then smooth it out over the main fabric, then pin and baste before sewing.
If to be free-floating over the main fabric as an extra dress, I would cut it according to the lace's own pattern (not straight) and then join it by hand.
Thank you very much. Very informative and clear instructions.
Thanks Sharita! Appreciated!
This was wonderful and just what I was looking for. Thank you so much!
Your tips are great, I know when do a video its more difficult to find the right sewing terminology than it is to actually sew..lol but continue to practice the terminology.
Wow you are great! I have a degree in fashion and never was shown how to this type of pattern making. I think this is so much easier and has better results thank you so much, I just want to know more! Demelza New Zealand
Thank you so much Bryan! I'm so glad I could help!
Very nice. Thank you I look forward to more.
Hi, Sten, thank you soooo much for sharing the video series, I'm a beginner and I've watched several draping videos and they are really helpful and fun! And you are so nice and talented! For this jacket sleeve video, I have a question(at about 13:20), I don't quite understand the two seam lines drawn inside the crease, and how to sew the under arm seam later on. Thank you again! :)
Hello Di! Thank you so much for your very positive comment. You just made me quite happy indeed!
The two seam-lines drawn on the inside of the sleeve are actually there to create the shape of the sleeve in a more clean-cut way. If you separate the sleeve into two pieces by cutting through these two lines, your "under sleeve" part will lay completely flat on the table, and hence won't need any overlapping, pinning or slashing - just copy it flat out right. That's the main function of the two underarm seam-lines I drew in the video.
Nice to meet you, Martin...thank you for your all videos,
+Chit Chit - Thank you Chit! How splendid to meet you too!
Me too, I am happy to find you..I love designing and making dresses all by my self. I am completely amateur. I would like to know like you. I did a lot for my family but I lost a lot because I am not competent. I am learning from you before I go to bed (only time for me without kids)!
+Chit Chit - Fantastic! I'm so proud of you for making an effort! I hope my videos are clear enough - otherwise feel free to ask. I always try to explain as much as possible in a non-complicated way, but sometimes things can get a bit complex. Good luck with your process!
I really enjoyed this post so now you got me interested
+maurisa mark - Thanks Maurisa!
Thank you Martin. I like your accent.
I'm glad to help, Hoang Le!
I will! It can be a bit confusing when you have the terminology in three different languages - and tailoring has so many of them! (Words that is.) But I'll work on it. Thanks!
you are so good. thanks for you great videos
Also cutting out the pieces too!
Great tutorial!!
Thank you so much Mary Lou! I'm so glad you liked the video!
thank you so much Mr Sten for the tutorials..you are awesome! now I understand how to Moulage/draping because of your videos (admire you). I have a Question, how to correct / move to a flat pattern? can you teach us?
Very brilliant guy...
Thank you TheMiriambella!
Your question is something about a half sleeve...? Sorry, I didn't quite get it - my Spanish(?) is not what it should have been. Maybe you could explain your question again?
Que manera mas maravillosa de explicar,gracias muy generoso de tu parte,se ve tan facil,esta muselina es en que tela?
I was looking for an easy tailored jacket draping method....Your videos are great! You are an excellent instructor. Thank you so much for making these videos available on TH-cam. Also I have two concerns: (1) When I place the draped jacket on my dotted pattern paper to make a flat pattern, how do I find the grainlines on the pieces, especially the sleeve?, (2) I am in the Full-Bust size range (more than a D+ cup) Is it better to have princess seaming or will darts look professional also?
amazing!!
+Moda Bizarrosa - Thanks!
Hi blessed aulways! I'm so glad that you find my videos helpful. And how nice of you to letting me know! Thank you!
I'm sure you'll do great. And if you have any questions along the way with the jacket, feel free to ask me if you'd like. Good luck and enjoy!
Excelente....brasil
Hi Sharita!
Yes, I will try to answer you questions if I can. It just maybe take a few days...
Thank you for watching!
You are a genious!!!!
Quisiea saber como haces si la manga le vi un corte a la mitad de la manga. I love your job!!!
Thank you! this is very useful!
Thank you
I actually started on a men's jacket draping, showing the canvases first, in "6. How to shape a men's jacket, the canvas". I just didn't take it further yet. But I will soon, I hope, since I think menswear is a bit underrepresentated in the how-to-do department. Let's change that, right?
Hi sten.
I like ur way in teaching..I want to know how to apply
Lace on a mermaid skirt or dress..not the one with round skirt. But the one that get wid open from the princess seem...I heard that lace shouldn't be cut...but stretch out...I can't really get it..please help me ur the only hope
Brilliant! Maybe one day you could do a video for men.
did you made the jacket that you're wearing it's fabulous
Danjewel dat u dit met ons wil delen, ben er super blij mee, maar bestaan deze filmpjes ook in het Nederlands?
hi how do you transfer the sleeve drape to a paper pattern ? do you marck with a sharpie/pen the outside then cut it out and put it on a paper ?
Thank you so so much
Thank u so So Much gros bisoooo
Beautiful
Thank You! Question: Did you make the jacket your wearing in this video? I like it.