No, please don't stop ANY of these videos, YOU ARE NOT THE ONLY ONE WHO WANTS TO LEARN. I have little to no experience in machining, wood working, or most other things. I can't afford college, or a vocational ~skool~, so I turn to all of you on TH-cam for your experience and knowledge. I want to know more. Please do not stop.
Hey, I was a bricklayer the son of a bricklayer and set a bunch of sills. Didn't have to cast many but my dad cast in place all the sills in our brick house. I love watching machining videos so I'll look forward to all you show. I'll stop by every time, Greg.
Agreed! Keep them coming. The Mrs and I stopped watching anything other than the machinist / music videos at the start of covid. We really appreciate a family pitching together to make a difference - IT Does make a difference! We rung the bell lol Take care,
No reason to apologize for different content! Shop projects and builds and redesigns of workspaces is one of the biggest interests for me. Learning from yourself and other creators about shop builds, repairs and designs, is an incredible resource for us all to have better workshops.
Love this content. As someone said earlier, "It's a pleasure to watch a renaissance man at work'. To take it further: 'I love hard work, I could sit and watch it for hours'.
Great content! I would love to see an overview of the building and a scope of work that you are planning, glad to see the family helping. As you are learning, you are also teaching and that is very valuable to us and many others.
I thought about that, but the windows are way up, over 20ft off the ground, with a busy sidewalk below. I didn't really now how to work with that without spending a bunch of money renting a scissor lift or putting up scaffolding.
@@jtkilroy I cast my first attempts in-place. I'll be casting later copies just as you are describing. I did not have the worry of people below. I also was able to run all-thread from exterior to interior to secure the two form halves. Cast-in-place also puts your concrete finishing skills on display - not necessarily a good thing us amateurs - whereas the form creates the show face. Cast-in-place does break the weight into scoop-sized bits. I'll show you some pics at the bash...
I thank it is great you thank enough of us as subscribers to share this life experience. Steo by step is great some may need this content for their similar project God bless Stay safe and again. THANKS FOR SHARING
Nice to see the family helping out. Everyone's shop can stand improvement and it can be distracting when things in the shop aren't where you want them to be. Thanks
Cast in two threaded connectors so you can lift the concrete sills with eye bolts, similar to the way we do with Tilt-Up buildings. Lifting them onto the mortar will be easy and the hole left behind can be grouted shut,
Now that is a great idea. Someone else mentioned it and I didn't catch onto casting it into the top. I can cast the connectors right in where the window will sit, they will be covered, no problem.
nice shop. I still have 2 feet in woodworking, the metal working has been a great diversion, and hobby. It also helped my woodworking in many ways. After screwing everthing you proceeded to nail you mold to the screwed sides. I was confused, if you want to make it easy to disassemble, then why nail it? seems like you could have glued it because you also silicone sealed it. I hope that 400 pounds won't blow out the sides.. I would have some clamps waiting to hold it just in case. BTW you could always put 2 large metal plates with a 1" or 3/4 thread in it. Attach some plastic tube to the plate to keep the cement from the threads on the outboard side and to space the plate from the face. Seal the back side of the plate.. mold them in, to the top plate then put lifting eyes in and use your gantry to move it around , get it near the window and slide it on planks to the window using machine moving dollies. good luck, waiting to see how you wind up doing it..... but first the molding of the piece.
An alternative design: To break the thermal bridge from exterior to interior. Cut half inch Hardie backer with 'horns' for the exterior. Lay up three layers of that in place using thinset to bond to the masonry. The depth (horizontally) is the midpoint of the wall to the exterior edge (given overhang of your choice). Clad with copper. You could paint the underside black. For the interior sill, use a thick piece of oak. Separate at the midpoint with a sacrificial wood strip or rubber gasket. This design avoids the thermal bridge, avoids need for heavy lifting, avoids the need for a mould.
That sure is well thought out, something you have done before? The copper cladding basically means it will outlast my grand kids, and no back breaking labor!
James T. Kilroy Jr. I have laminated layers of Hardie backer and I have hand made copper flashing. But I have not made such into a window sill before. You could do a small scale mock-up for pretty cheap and see how it turns out. The copper is fun to experiment with oxidizing colors.
When you started to put that riser piece in at 8:51 it seems to me like you had some trouble alliging it on tha marks. I remember those problems from my own woodworking. It is way faster to cut some spacers from scrap pieces, push it all together and fasten it down. It also maybe faster to screw a piece like this down from the outside instead of nailing it from the inside. If the scews have the right lenght and don't break trough it saves you the putty and sanding. I am into all kinds of craftsmenship from machining manual and cnc, fabrication, furniture making, carpentry, (timber-)framing, bricklaying, boatbuilding and so on. I am totally fine with some change in content on this channel. Good luck with the remodel and happy bithday to your old man!
I love seeing this kind of content as well as metal work!!! You have a beautiful shop '1880' wow cool!!! I have always wanted to see more of the building... :o) . O,,,
Pretty sure I would attempt to cast in place. So much likelyhood of damage or possibly even breaking under its own weight in movement. Don't want any FSU footbridge kind of deals. Alternatively you could make like 2ft pieces then just lay them like block and use mortar to fill the joints. Probably a lot more convenient.
Thankfully there is flat concrete outside all of the windows. I'll lift them with a scissor lift and slide them in place. Gravity will do the rest. The 2ft idea does sound good
This is looking interesting to me. I am happy for you to still have your dad. Mine died in 1986 at 71 and my mom died in 2007 at 91. Keep on keeping on. What about the outside of the sill being wider than the opening?
Probably too late now, but, I have folded steel window sill forms that you pour in situ, they are rails with end pieces that can be adjusted for length, no lugging around heavy lumps of concrete! Could easily be made from wood too! Cheers, Matthew
@@jtkilroy I can't get at them for the moment, but, for you application, two forms, one inner one outer, the inside one , an L shape with blocks to close up the ends. On the outside, an L on the bottom with the drip groove in it and the the slope that screws on afterwords. Fill from the top, vibrate in well into the front. If you want for the inside step up, pour to the top of the sloping section, add a piece of wood for the window seat, fill to have the rear higher. Please don't hesitate to contact me if I'm not clear! All the best, Matthew
Old brick buildings make me nervous. I've seen so many of the old main drag store buildings suddenly fall in with no warning, especially while there was repair or renovation work going on. All I can think to say about it is "leave nothing to chance."
Hi James ! You never told us you have such a nice wook working shop ;-)) How about the cold outside ... the concrete will 'transport' your heat from inside out of the window and the inside part will be very cold ... IF it's cold outside. Maybe it's not a problem where you live ... is IS here in Denmark ! Best for Keld in Denmark
Welcome back Jay, been wondering if you stopped the channel. What are you doing about security with all those windows open? Not the greatest area, are you concerned about break-ins? Very ambitious project. Hope it all works out well for you. Thanks for sharing.
One question if you or anyone can answer... I see that you screwed in your sides so that you would be able to easily take them off in case the concrete did not come out easily, and so that you could open and re-close the mold for a number of sills, but then, when you put the sill angle piece in you nailed it through the side you said could be removed... then you seemed to nail the sill angle piece also onto the bottom of the mold. So how would one then take off the sides to release the concrete if it is attached to the bottom via the sill angle piece? Does that make sense? Also, I am assuming that after pouring in the concrete you make your little (indentation to keep rain from running under the sill and back to the side of the house) by pressing in a long dowel? Is that correct?
I did screw the sides in, but it turned out to not be required. They all came out of the mold very easily, just turn it over and catch it. I cut the drip edge into the bottom with a masonry blade in an old circular saw, made a couple of passes to get it about 1/4" wide and deep.
@@jtkilroy Thanks so much for your answer. I so appreciate it. Now just sad that, here in France where I live, there is nothing like Crisco. wink wink. take care
Content: yeah, well, I’m also subscribed to Odell Complete Concrete, Tractor Time With Tim, Louisiana Tractors & Projects, HVACR VIDEOS, Andrew Camarata, RR Buildings, and seejanedrill, amongst several hundred others... so I say, as long as it’s interesting - post it! 😉
I'll look the model up tomorrow at the shop. Whichever model it is is too BIG! I can barely give it any air and it just about shakes the mold off the saw horses.
No, please don't stop ANY of these videos, YOU ARE NOT THE ONLY ONE WHO WANTS TO LEARN. I have little to no experience in machining, wood working, or most other things. I can't afford college, or a vocational ~skool~, so I turn to all of you on TH-cam for your experience and knowledge.
I want to know more. Please do not stop.
Hey, I was a bricklayer the son of a bricklayer and set a bunch of sills. Didn't have to cast many but my dad cast in place all the sills in our brick house. I love watching machining videos so I'll look forward to all you show. I'll stop by every time, Greg.
Keep the content coming James all the metal creators are in construction nowadays like Steve Summers :)
Agreed! Keep them coming. The Mrs and I stopped watching anything other than the machinist / music videos at the start of covid. We really appreciate a family pitching together to make a difference - IT Does make a difference! We rung the bell lol
Take care,
I never knew that you had such a large woodworking shop. You could build almost anything in a building that big.
You kept a whole second floor of workshop from us !
That's a lovely table saw.
Interesting project
VERY nice wood shop.... lots of space very nice equipment. From a furniture maker
No reason to apologize for different content! Shop projects and builds and redesigns of workspaces is one of the biggest interests for me. Learning from yourself and other creators about shop builds, repairs and designs, is an incredible resource for us all to have better workshops.
Love to see everything you’re willing to share. It’s a pleasure to watch a renaissance man at work. We all learn 👍😎👍
Thanks 👍
My wife and I love all the stuff you do. Great to see the family helping. Thanks.
Thanks 👍
My wife and I have been missing your videos. Nice to see you back.
Thanks
Craftsmanship is craftsmanship whether is in wood, concrete or metal. I love watching craftsman regardless what the medium they are working with!
Love this content. As someone said earlier, "It's a pleasure to watch a renaissance man at work'. To take it further: 'I love hard work, I could sit and watch it for hours'.
enjoyed....nice having the family as part of the project....congrats to your pop
Thanks 👍
Great content we are getting ready to take concrete window sills for our Strawbale house.
Great content! I would love to see an overview of the building and a scope of work that you are planning, glad to see the family helping. As you are learning, you are also teaching and that is very valuable to us and many others.
Ill work on that, thanks for the idea
That is quite a wood shop that you have there. Enjoyed, most of us have to do building maintenance at one time or another. Keep them coming.
Looks like a commercial cabinet shop... the accumulation of sawdust is worrisome though.
What a bad ass wood shop. Love to see a variety of craftsmanship videos. You are definitely a craftsman. 👍👍👍
Happy birthday to your dad Jay! I lost mine in 2012. See ya at the Bash!
Good episode - variety is the spice of life.
Cute kids! It's always great to see the kids developing their skills and helping out.
i would of cast it in the window "mold on both sides" Big Happy Birthday to Mr Kilroy Love your video
I thought about that, but the windows are way up, over 20ft off the ground, with a busy sidewalk below. I didn't really now how to work with that without spending a bunch of money renting a scissor lift or putting up scaffolding.
@@jtkilroy I cast my first attempts in-place. I'll be casting later copies just as you are describing. I did not have the worry of people below. I also was able to run all-thread from exterior to interior to secure the two form halves. Cast-in-place also puts your concrete finishing skills on display - not necessarily a good thing us amateurs - whereas the form creates the show face. Cast-in-place does break the weight into scoop-sized bits. I'll show you some pics at the bash...
I thank it is great you thank enough of us as subscribers to share this life experience. Steo by step is great some may need this content for their similar project
God bless Stay safe and again.
THANKS FOR SHARING
Now THAT’S a building! None of this plywood siding and drywall garbage! 😎
None of that here, walls downstairs are 18" solid brick.
Looking forward to this shop rebuild. I always learn from them and I always pick up tips on better ways to get things done. Work smarter not harder.
Nice to see the family helping out. Everyone's shop can stand improvement and it can be distracting when things in the shop aren't where you want them to be. Thanks
Hi James, great video thought it was fascinating , You and Family stay well, looking forward to your next vid. Kind Regards Mike and Laine
Thanks 👍
I feel like Rip Van Winkle. When did I miss your wood shop tour?
Cast in two threaded connectors so you can lift the concrete sills with eye bolts, similar to the way we do with Tilt-Up buildings. Lifting them onto the mortar will be easy and the hole left behind can be grouted shut,
Now that is a great idea. Someone else mentioned it and I didn't catch onto casting it into the top. I can cast the connectors right in where the window will sit, they will be covered, no problem.
What a grand old building. I had no idea you had a wood shop also. Cool playground for getting it done.
I always enjoy watching your channel nomatter what you are doing/building.
Thanks 👍
nice shop. I still have 2 feet in woodworking, the metal working has been a great diversion, and hobby. It also helped my woodworking in many ways.
After screwing everthing you proceeded to nail you mold to the screwed sides. I was confused, if you want to make it easy to disassemble, then why nail it? seems like you could have glued it because you also silicone sealed it. I hope that 400 pounds won't blow out the sides.. I would have some clamps waiting to hold it just in case.
BTW you could always put 2 large metal plates with a 1" or 3/4 thread in it. Attach some plastic tube to the plate to keep the cement from the threads on the outboard side and to space the plate from the face. Seal the back side of the plate.. mold them in, to the top plate then put lifting eyes in and use your gantry to move it around , get it near the window and slide it on planks to the window using machine moving dollies.
good luck, waiting to see how you wind up doing it..... but first the molding of the piece.
An alternative design: To break the thermal bridge from exterior to interior. Cut half inch Hardie backer with 'horns' for the exterior. Lay up three layers of that in place using thinset to bond to the masonry. The depth (horizontally) is the midpoint of the wall to the exterior edge (given overhang of your choice). Clad with copper. You could paint the underside black. For the interior sill, use a thick piece of oak. Separate at the midpoint with a sacrificial wood strip or rubber gasket. This design avoids the thermal bridge, avoids need for heavy lifting, avoids the need for a mould.
That sure is well thought out, something you have done before? The copper cladding basically means it will outlast my grand kids, and no back breaking labor!
James T. Kilroy Jr. I have laminated layers of Hardie backer and I have hand made copper flashing. But I have not made such into a window sill before. You could do a small scale mock-up for pretty cheap and see how it turns out. The copper is fun to experiment with oxidizing colors.
When you started to put that riser piece in at 8:51 it seems to me like you had some trouble alliging it on tha marks. I remember those problems from my own woodworking. It is way faster to cut some spacers from scrap pieces, push it all together and fasten it down. It also maybe faster to screw a piece like this down from the outside instead of nailing it from the inside. If the scews have the right lenght and don't break trough it saves you the putty and sanding.
I am into all kinds of craftsmenship from machining manual and cnc, fabrication, furniture making, carpentry, (timber-)framing, bricklaying, boatbuilding and so on. I am totally fine with some change in content on this channel. Good luck with the remodel and happy bithday to your old man!
Congrats on the building! Thanks for sharing...
Thanks for watching!
ya ... three out of the crew i watch are in shop construction ... must b something goin round !
I love seeing this kind of content as well as metal work!!! You have a beautiful shop '1880' wow cool!!! I have always wanted to see more of the building... :o) .
O,,,
Any time you are in central Mississippi let me know, love to give you a tour.
Pretty sure I would attempt to cast in place. So much likelyhood of damage or possibly even breaking under its own weight in movement. Don't want any FSU footbridge kind of deals. Alternatively you could make like 2ft pieces then just lay them like block and use mortar to fill the joints. Probably a lot more convenient.
Thankfully there is flat concrete outside all of the windows. I'll lift them with a scissor lift and slide them in place. Gravity will do the rest. The 2ft idea does sound good
This is looking interesting to me. I am happy for you to still have your dad. Mine died in 1986 at 71 and my mom died in 2007 at 91. Keep on keeping on. What about the outside of the sill being wider than the opening?
I love this content, Looking forward to seeing it done.
Probably too late now, but, I have folded steel window sill forms that you pour in situ, they are rails with end pieces that can be adjusted for length, no lugging around heavy lumps of concrete! Could easily be made from wood too! Cheers, Matthew
I would love to see what those look like. These things are heavy. It would also be a lot easier to get them level in the form!
@@jtkilroy I can't get at them for the moment, but, for you application, two forms, one inner one outer, the inside one , an L shape with blocks to close up the ends. On the outside, an L on the bottom with the drip groove in it and the the slope that screws on afterwords. Fill from the top, vibrate in well into the front. If you want for the inside step up, pour to the top of the sloping section, add a piece of wood for the window seat, fill to have the rear higher. Please don't hesitate to contact me if I'm not clear! All the best, Matthew
@@MatthewTinker-au-pont-blanc Thanks!
@@jtkilroy If you want to have a look at my youtube channel sometime, feel free!
Old brick buildings make me nervous. I've seen so many of the old main drag store buildings suddenly fall in with no warning, especially while there was repair or renovation work going on. All I can think to say about it is "leave nothing to chance."
Not taking out any structure, if anything I'm making it much stronger. But I totally get where you are coming from..
Hi James !
You never told us you have such a nice wook working shop ;-))
How about the cold outside ... the concrete will 'transport' your heat from inside out of the window and the inside part will be very cold ... IF it's cold outside.
Maybe it's not a problem where you live ... is IS here in Denmark !
Best for Keld
in Denmark
Don't have to run the heat all that often here. With the thick brick walls, it holds heat really well. Summer? That is another story.
Welcome back Jay, been wondering if you stopped the channel.
What are you doing about security with all those windows open?
Not the greatest area, are you concerned about break-ins?
Very ambitious project. Hope it all works out well for you.
Thanks for sharing.
They are over 20ft off the ground! Spider man would not have any issues however!
I like ALL your content.
Great job
One question if you or anyone can answer... I see that you screwed in your sides so that you would be able to easily take them off in case the concrete did not come out easily, and so that you could open and re-close the mold for a number of sills, but then, when you put the sill angle piece in you nailed it through the side you said could be removed... then you seemed to nail the sill angle piece also onto the bottom of the mold. So how would one then take off the sides to release the concrete if it is attached to the bottom via the sill angle piece? Does that make sense?
Also, I am assuming that after pouring in the concrete you make your little (indentation to keep rain from running under the sill and back to the side of the house) by pressing in a long dowel? Is that correct?
Also, thanks for such a great video :)
I did screw the sides in, but it turned out to not be required. They all came out of the mold very easily, just turn it over and catch it. I cut the drip edge into the bottom with a masonry blade in an old circular saw, made a couple of passes to get it about 1/4" wide and deep.
@@jtkilroy Thanks so much for your answer. I so appreciate it. Now just sad that, here in France where I live, there is nothing like Crisco. wink wink. take care
Was it originally wood? Maybe it was sandstone at some point in the buildings life.
Content: yeah, well, I’m also subscribed to Odell Complete Concrete, Tractor Time With Tim, Louisiana Tractors & Projects, HVACR VIDEOS, Andrew Camarata, RR Buildings, and seejanedrill, amongst several hundred others... so I say, as long as it’s interesting - post it! 😉
I'm not following the nailing of the taper piece into the exterior side wall? I thought all sides had to be removable?
Just the ends. Turns out I don't have to disassemble the mold at all, the casting comes right out.
Any kind of content you video is fine with me. One comment is wouldn't it be better just to put glass block or is that what your putting in?
It would, but I'm in the historic district. I have to go back with the original configuration.
I'll make you a deal, if you keep making content, editing and publishing, we will gratefully watch.
Deal
If you mould a flanged coupling nut into the middle of the sill that has access both sided, you cold use that to hoist them ?
Possibly, I didn't think of that. Originally I wanted to just put some wire loops in there, so that I could cut them off when I was done.
@@jtkilroy Wire is simple and cheap.
Which vibco did you go with? Thinking about something like that for a concrete countertop project I have in mind.
I'll look the model up tomorrow at the shop. Whichever model it is is too BIG! I can barely give it any air and it just about shakes the mold off the saw horses.
@@jtkilroy Thanks James. That's exactly why I've hesitated to pick one up at this point. Thanks for the cautionary tale!
Your new endauver is most interesting just becouse your not from the bric and morter clan;-)
Obviously a commercial shop, but seriously, no floating blade guard and no anti-kickback pawls?
old building use lime mortar Please you will kill a building with portland cement it cannot breath to seat them