Mill Quill DRO: Installing the Magnetic Scale and Configuring it to Sum
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 11 พ.ย. 2022
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Today I'm finishing the install of the quill DRO on my PM935-TV milling machine. This adds a fourth axis to the 3-axis DRO already on the mill, and we'll set it up so the quill and knee DRO scale readings as summed together. This should allow us to move the knee and the quill at the same time and still retain our Z position.
Tools used in this video:
*This site contains affiliate links for which I may be compensated
Quill Speed Handle for PM935 (Amazon*): amzn.to/3jF0XOz
Quill Speed Handle for PM935 (eBay*): ebay.us/JJa6cl
Heat-Set Threaded Inserts (Amazon*): amzn.to/3g8mDj6
Excelta Bent Nose Smooth Plier (Amazon*): amzn.to/3CFoIOL
Hakko FX-888D Soldering Iron (*Amazon): amzn.to/3HkhaBK
Milwaukee Fastback Folding Knife (Amazon*): amzn.to/3F4Ujs8
HFS 190-Piece (0.061-0.250") Gage Pin Set Minus (Amazon*): amzn.to/2DDSAf3
A9 Cutting Fluid for aluminum (eBay*): ebay.to/2FBUi3Q
Noga Deburring Set (Amazon*): amzn.to/2xMfiPz
NogaFlex Indicator Holder with Fine Adjust (Amazon*): amzn.to/33FwerY
1/4 x 6" Parallel Set (Amazon*): amzn.to/3swn5Mj
Chicago Latrobe HSS Short Letter Drill Set (Amazon*): amzn.to/2PWx0dL
Chicago Latrobe HSS Short Number Drill Set (Amazon*): amzn.to/2Qgss0S
Chicago Latrobe HSS Short Fractional Drill Set (Amazon*): amzn.to/3mkmziD
Bondhus Metric Hex Key Set (Amazon*): amzn.to/3eqZzwb
Bondhus SAE Hex Key Set (Amazon*): amzn.to/3h9bJLZ
QIDI Tech PA12-CF Carbon Fiber Nylon (Amazon*): amzn.to/3LylGyL
DRO Pros 4-axis Mill Kit: www.dropros.com/Electronica_M...
Raw Kevin MacLeod (incompetech.com)
Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 3.0 License
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00:41 The Plan
02:18 3D Modeling in Fusion 360
08:36 3D Printed Parts and Threaded Inserts
10:00 Laser Cut Aluminum from SendCutSend
11:29 Power tapping gone awry
12:27 Modifying the Scale Cover
15:30 Installation is the Reverse of Removal
18:18 Programming the DRO to Sum
20:23 Testing With a Dial Indicator
22:07 Spacing Out the Power Downfeed Crank
23:10 Conclusion
Your Z scaling is now correct. Z+ (Z increasing) is always the tool moving away from the work, so Quill moving UP and Knee moving DOWN... Standard Cartesian Coordinate system relative tool movement.
Just added a quill scale and external summing box to my bridgeport DRO and was trying to decide which way the signs on the Z-axis should be, as you raise the table (work moving towards the cutter) on all manual milling machines I have used the handwheel scale is increasing - ie +ve - and as you move the quill down (tool towards the work) the mechanical scale is also increasing - ie also +ve - so it seems that to match the accepted Cartesian system on the DRO the scales on the machine controls will move 'backwards'? Not that it matters as you won't be reading them, that's why you fitted a DRO after all!
@@adriannicol8529 Yes, the hand crank for the knee typically is counting up as you raise the knee but that is because its easier for the human brain to perceive and comprehend increasing numbers when you need to increase depth.
For example, if you set the top of the work surface to zero and you need to take say a .025" DOC, if the numbers on the hand wheel were to count down as you raise the table .025", you would have to start backwards from .100" and go back to .075" (assuming a .100" per rev like most). This could get confusing so it makes more sense to have raise count up so that way 0 is just that, zero and to tank a .025 DOC, you are just counting up to .025 on the dial.
Remember, going negative from zero is still "counting UP", just it has a negative sign preceding it.
*_"so it seems that to match the accepted Cartesian system on the DRO the scales on the machine controls will move 'backwards'?"_*
As for the scale, a linear scale has no "Forward" or "Backwards" its simply a quadrature encoder (i.e., two channels that are either at 0v or 5v and are 90° out of phase from each). The DRO itself is what determines which way counts up and which way counts down. Most quality DRO's have a reverse function so that the user can set the direction based on how they mounted the scale. The scale itself is really just acting as a switch turning on and off the two channels in sequential order.
The DRO is just looking for which channel changes state (switch on or off depending on its current state) to determine which direction the scale read head is moving and then based on its coding (The DRO's coding), this will either decrement or increment the counter.
The Scale itself just creates a Binary code basically that has 4 possible outputs.
Ch = Value
A = 0 (off)
B = 0 (off)
---------
A = 1 (on)
B = 0 (off)
---------
A = 1 (on)
B = 1 (on)
--------
A = 0 (off)
B = 1 (on)
and starts back over with both = 0 (off)
As you can see, there is a sequence and depending on which way read head moves determines which way the sequence goes and the DRO simply looks for the change in state on to off or off to on to determine which way the read head moved. For example, lets say that the current condition was state 3 (both on) and then A changed to off, that would mean that it moved to to state 4 but if B was the first one to change to off, then that means that it changed to state 2 (i.e., moved the other direction).
In simplest terms, for any current state (1, 2, 3, or 4), the change can only go to the next or the previous, it cant skip. So if it was in say state 2, then it could only change to state 3 or state 1 and depend on which state it changed to, then the DRO knows whether to increment or decrement the counters depending on what its coded (programmed) to do.
All in all, DRO's and linear scales are very simple devices.
For that matter, with some pretty simple coding and a cheap micro controller like an Arduino, one could have dual scale "summing" on any DRO. I did it several years ago for the quill and knee on a Mill that I have before ultimately converting it to CNC.
@@CJ-ty8sv Hi, thanks very much for the detailed reply, yes I'm familiar with the principles of quadrature decoding - used to build my own crude optical rotary ones back in the '60s before such things were available at affordable (to me!) prices - my dithering was just over the semantics of the the sign for a given direction of travel on manual vs CNC vertical mill which I think you answered for me!
I'm also debating whether or not to convert my Bridgeport to CNC and to that end am just putting the finishing touches to an X,Y,Z test bed with mag strip scales to explore closed-loop servoing using LinuxCNC - gives me something to play with in my declining years!
Thanks again for the reply
That printed carbon fiber with brass inserts looks amazing...
It sure makes pretty parts.
You absolutely have the DRO going the correct way
Always glad to see new videos from you!
Good Job. My TurnPro mill looks identical to yours. It came with a quill DRO. Mine has a bracket that bolts in line with the quill lead screw so that the scale is offset to the right on the head. The part that moves on the scale is bolted direct to the nut on the leadscrew.
That came out really nice.
It must feel good to finally get this done. Well done, James. Well done.
Nice clean install, James
Fascinating to see the Fusion work.
Great video, always enjoying your work both engineering and edditing! Wanted to Thank You for motivation to finish my DRO project on lathe using 3D printed parts.
I like it!! Great job. Better than the mount I did for my quill DRO. I really liked the CAD image overlay prototype design.
great idea to use 3d print ... thx for the good idea, I'm adding DRO to my machine and glad to have this as an option as well as steel and aluminum.
Top job clough! I enjoyed the little side track down fusion and 3d printing as they are things i don't use atm.
Always a learning experience. I love it!
love your all round skills
I like the way you used the photographs in CAD to get things aligned. I also like the fact that you are willing to use 3d printed parts. I didn't realize that you could send a part out for laser cutting; that is a very good tip!
Great little project. I have a digital scale to fit to the quill on my RF45 mill that came with the machine when I bought it 2nd hand. I have had a look at how to fit it, as I suspect the previous owner did and then put the mill back together again, as the previous owner did. I don't have access to a 3d printer, but this has encouraged me to have another go at it.
Very well done. I am sure that will come in handy forever. I have considered adding a DRO for the quill on my mill but so far I have not found that one thing I want on mine. It is a Baskin Robbins sort of choice. There are many flavors you like but so far no favorite. Thanks for the video keep on keeping on.
Very cool feature on your DRO (SUM) I'm working on a similar design, I'm going to offset the scale a couple inches to the right so I can still use the auto feed stop screw.
I thought the same, the stop is still handy at some times.
Nice result. I ended up fitting a glass scale to my quill and set both the quill and knee scale so the Z goes negative if the depth of cut increases. With TouchDRO you can invert the scale direction without flipping the scale.
I recently purchased the same kit that you have (4 axis DRO). I installed the x,y & z. and have been holding off on the quill scale. My mill is a J head Bridgeport. The casting on my mill is rounded and trying to configure a suitable mount for the scale was going to be a challenge. Your idea is perfect. Thanks
Very neatly done.......now I think I'll have to invent a way to fit a DRO to the quill on my mill as the mill, which was a jig borer, doesn't have a fine feed drive to the quill......being a jig borer, per se, it only had quill down feed capability for drilling, reaming and boring holes, but now it's converted to a mill and down feed positioning for milling is another challenge but getting there.
Very good!
Excellent result! That was well worth 15 bucks and especially if you did not have the aluminum on hand already. I also feel that was a solid use case for 3D printing. Great work.
😊😊
That is nice workflow tu use pictures , im using it all the time in work ,
ONE TIP : Make model green color to poup... that way you can batter see model ;)
That's a good idea.
Good stuff
Wow I didn't know there were DROs that supported summing, it makes sense in retrospect. I've basically stopped using the quill ever since I added a Z axis DRO. It improves the rigidity in my bench mill. Quill is only used for drilling, rest of the time it's locked.
Hi James,
Nice to see that project coming to a neat end...
As I'm currently doing more or less the same (but with a DRO missing the 4th input and the summing mode, so I'll do the summing logic externally) I wonder if it would't be a good idea to be able to move the quill so the tool hits some reference plate, disconnect the quill input, change the tool, move back to the reference plate and reconnect the quill input.
That way, you could change the tool without losing the Z tool-to-object current value...
Please go ahead with your excellent project-closing videos
Cheers, Jean
One advantage with magnetic scales is that you can easily cut them to length. A bit surprised you didn't. I think a shorter bracket should look nicer.
Your brain is working fine! Mine, not so much. Great job!
I have a Bridgeport….I got a Mitutoyo quill kit……it’s excellent!
Very nice content man
The hand wheel spacer was the best part. Excellent solution. As you say, so often others just pitch the wheel. I find using it very helpful for some operations. Note on the older bridgeports, you had to be very careful with respect to the scale mounting screw depths. Too long and it would interfere with the auto feed mechanism. Just an FYI in case someone else below doesn’t mention it…… but James, you probably know all this 👍👍😎👍👍
I didn't. But it seems to work okay. :)
88 k subs already good for you!
send cut send is great!
great job!!!!!!
Muita tecnologia pra fazer um simples suporte de régua com um custo da NASA eu faço isso muito rapido nas máquinas manuais da própria oficina video muito tecnologico possivelmente para a NASA 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
So with this "prolonged" project done that must mean finishing your drillpress project is next! 😁
It's on my list. :) I'd actually like to put a float-lock and a tapping head on it.
Great vid as always!
Hehe, I can totally relate to the “get stuck long enough to get distracted by another project ...or 5”. I have the same situation going at the moment, and this type situation reoccurs a little bit more frequently than I would like to admit.
Looks good to me.
Better to have undersized holes versus oversized ... Nice and clean project, James.
denatured ethanol or other alcohols works like magic as a lubricant for aluminium and it doesn't smell or leave a mess
With the heat inserts, I find that a good method is to push them down with the soldering iron but leave them slightly proud of the surface. Then i take a block of aluminum (milled flat) and push the insert down the rest of the way, pressing the aluminum against the 3d printed surface. This sets the insert perpendicular and flush to the surface and acts as a heat sink to lock them in place.
I prefer to set them slightly below the surface, so tightening the screw pulls the plastic parts into full bearing against one another.
I was surprised you didn't check the parallel of the read scale with the movement of the head attached to the quill. Because your scale was adjustable there might have been some drift. Your summed zero tests functionally proved its alignment - only I expected your typical level of plan/test neurosis. I love your process and your level of sharing it. :)
Because the read head isn't adjustable, I chose to just align to the head with the shims. Side to side misalignment too small to see would not contribute enough error to matter in this case. For a grinder? Maybe. For a mill quill? Not really.
Hi James!
On the direction of the reading head: you can switch the grey code encoder lines A and B (and their possible differential counter-parts) and the direction will be reversed.
So you could have your cable exiting to the top and still have your desired reading direction.
Oh, that's right! In glad I read the comments today!
@@Clough42Thanks! I was almost sure you knew about grey code 😄
Hope that blue tape cable management is not too permanent 😂
Hi James
Another great video as always 👍
Just what I need to do as an upgrade on my mill, Who’s DRO do PM supply ?
Keep up the good work !
@Dave Fieldsend I don't know. This one is from DRO Pros. (edit: spelling)
@@davefieldsend1909 They are MagExact, which looks like re-branded Electronica for their magnetic DROs.
I'm surprised you didn't use photogrammetry to model the mill. Or see if the manufacturer has drawings.
But it's good to see that you really don't need that level of detail.
Pretty darned cool! :)
If you’re looking for a good coolant to replace WD-40 on aluminum that doesn’t leave a mess everywhere try IPA next time. If you go with the lower concentration it doesn’t evaporate as fast but basically leaves no residue and cleans itself up. Works well for tapping too.
It took me way too many seconds to realize you meant "isopropyl alcohol" and not "India Pale Ale". 😂
Hi, from the video I can't see, but do you have access to operate the quell stop ? Thanks for sharing with us your journey. Great content. Keep it up. 👍👌👏
Using photos to measure the mill is a neat trick. There could be issues if your images aren't aligned to the mill precisely, or if there's any kind of barrel/pincushion distortion in the photo.
As an alternative (and I don't even know if this would work) would impressioning the mill parts using a type of clay or soft foam work? As in, you take the impression media (clay, foam, etc), press it into the mill where you want to match the new parts, remove it, then measure the impression?
There's a type of foam used for flower arrangements that is lightweight, cheap, and impressions well against hard surfaces. Just an idea.
I'm putting a DRO on a small knee mill. In looking around, it seems like standard DRO's are built for XY of table and then Z of knee travel, I think Quill travel is more useful especially if I can sum them. Do most people live with just knee and use manual offsets for the Quill? I almost would do it the other way if I could only do one- DRO on quill and manual on Knee. Confused- enjoy your content- hits a nice level of experience and meticulous- a bit more meticulous than me, a bit more experienced but neither are crazy.
2:50 It may be actual size, but it seems much bigger to me. 😃
Are there any plans to find some way to re-mount that ruler scale? It doesn't feel right to me without it there.
Perfect is the worst enemy of done.
I think that knee up/quill down is negative makes sense and is correct in my opinion and I'd venture to say most people would prefer it. Normally you'd consider the Z axis of your part in the machine to be positive in the up direction (approximately negative of the gravity vector for my fellow pedants). It makes most sense for the DRO to be measuring the position of the tool. If the end of the tool is touching the Z=0 plane, the DRO should read zero. Taking the end of the tool below the Z=0 plane means that the end of the tool is in the negative half of the Z space, therefore the Z axis on the DRO should decrease with raising the knee and lowering the quill.
If you have the Z referenced in the other direction, it means your Z axis is referenced for down (approximately with the gravity vector) being positive travel. If you keep X and Y axis normal, then your coordinate system no longer fits the right hand rule. To be fair, there's no reason that is a problem, if that's how you prefer it and choose to think about your mill, it doesn't matter. Its just a minor change of coordinate systems.
One other important thought: Should you ever tilt the head for an operation, you'll have to make sure to disable the summing function. I doubt that James needs that reminder but you bet its something I'd forget and then not understand why things aren't working.
Interesting way to do that, my U axis scale has been sitting in its box for about 6 years now (same DRO Pros model), mounting to the screws that held the printed scale is brilliant idea. Maybe I'll finish my DRO project too! One thing though, any reason you didn't trim the scale to length? They're really easy to cut. (finally, concur with the others, your scale directions are correct :-))
Yeah. I've cut many, and I thought about it after seeing the project done. :)
Thanks for another great video! Why didn't you cut the scale bracket on the plasma table?
I wanted to try the laser process, and the plasma could never have cut the small holes. There's a plasma video coming next week. :)
dude, pro tips on the picture set up into fusion, thank you
In my experience it is best to set the heat set not all the way into the Part and then press it down with a flat piece of Metall. it gets the Heat set flush with the part and not at an angle.
I actually want it recessed slightly so the screw will pull the faces solidly together.
Nice installation, but I have mixed emotions regarding quill dro on a manual machine. Yes for XYZ, but I like to have the quill separate. When milling I use the knee and when I'm drilling/tapping the depth is seldomly so critical that the "normal measurment" wouldn't be enough. If the need is within 0.XX mm I usually use the mechanical stop, zero with the knee and then lift for example 17.3 mm. But that's just my way...
I usually work that way, too, but every once in a while I need to readjust something to reach and it will come in handy.
@@Clough42
Understand fully 😋! Thank you for the videos. There is some new thing to be learned allmost every time 👍🏼!
Are there any that have like outputs for a digital signal?
Question; Did you figure out how tosave rhe summing function setting? I have to set it ever by time I turn on the dro.
Thanks
1:50 "The easiest way to do this would be to use a 3D scanner" *foreshadowing"
Hi James, I apologize if this was covered already but how well can you access your quill stop dial ?
Did you discover any impediments to normal functions like power down feed or using the depth stop etc? Or does everything function like it did before you installed the scale?
Retired and looking for mill: I see in your earlier videos that you started with the PM 940M but later switched to the knee mill. Why did you switch? Did you have issues with the PM940M or did PM offer you a good deal on the knee mill? BTW I love your videos! Good job.
Yeah, I had issues with the PM940. The one I received had some squareness problems in the saddle machining. PM took it back and gave me a good price on the upgrade.
[edit: with the weight involved the first paragraph is probably irrelevant - however the test for insert would be beneficial for heavier parts] 9:28 have you found that nylon on the outside of the insert thick enough? It looks a bit thin in the video. Interesting to see if it fails there in future?
Could be worthy of a test video showing how thick the plastic material around your insert has to be to reduce bending, bearing and sheer stress failures..
Maybe there some plastic design guide out there that has it too.
17:50 - nice 3d printed clips might be nicer than a zip tie…
You would be surprised how strong tapped threads in plastic are. Stronger than bass inserts in many cases in my experience.
I started using threaded inserts precisely because I had a number of tapped threads in plastic fail. The brass inserts have been much stronger and more reliable.
@@Clough42 Like for like sure brass is stronger than plastic. However, a well formed thread that is say 2-3times as deep actually has a stronger pull out load. But I get the point about the durability and cross threading issue. Like anything, its about making the right choice for the right application.
Procrastination is totally a good thing. You always have something to do tomorrow, plus you have nothing to do today.
24:24 ok james,thats the difference between you and this old tony,he actually HAS 3 hands as proven in "Shoot'n The Poop #4 - Toys For TOT!" at minute 15.09. But hey,we all have to work with what we got,and you are rally trying your best with THAT kind of handycap.
Do you still have access to the depth stop features? Hard to tell from the camera angles if you can still reach behind the DRO to adjust the depth stop.
Yes. I didn't mention it, but it's easy to reach. It would probably be better with a quick-release button nut.
Welcome to the new startup procedure. Fn ➡➡➡ enter enter. I really wish you could set summing as the default on this DRO. If you find a way let me know...
Oh, it doesn't stick? I guess I haven't turned it off yet.
"..using a 3d scanner but I don't have one" ... future video right there....
I've been shopping, but I'm picky, and good industrial scanners are expensive.
I'm surprised you haven't decided to put a VFD on the mill so you can have a foot pedal to run a power tapping mode. I've had the opportunity to use such setups occasionally, and having a foot pedal to handle reversing the spindle, plus VFD braking makes it really nice. Not as good as a proper tapping head with a clutch, or a rigid taping system, but much better than trying to use three hands. It seems like another of those projects that's good for youtube content, and great for quality of life later.
It's a single-phase mill with a variable speed belt drive.
@@Clough42 well drat, I guess replacing the motor or finding a single phase vfd is likely not worth the effort. I'm so used to 3ph system's I didn't even consider that
Great!
But I thought I heard you say those were stainless button head bolts? The insert is brass right? And the plate steel. I think the galvanic corrosion due to this combination might eat away the threads in the brass. I had something like that happen with aluminum.
You must live someplace with actual humidity. :)
@@Clough42 yeah, it's that tiny eu country below sea level.
I’ve found that when power tapping, I always have to have the part held down. Not necessarily clamped rigidly, but to prevent that rise as it tries to screw itself up the tap. It’s amazing just how much torque and lift even a #6 tap exerts.
I’m curious about that laser cut part. If the holes are consistently undersized by 0.002” what about the part size? Is it short by 0.002”, or by that amount per some nominal length (and width)?
That's well within ISO 2768 mk.
@@Universal_Craftsman yes, a lot of errors are within standards, until they don’t match.
@@melgross I agree, but it seems that he didn't specify any fits and tolerances, so the supplier didn't know.
Edit: clough42 called out M4 6H so tolerance is specified accordingly.
@@Universal_Craftsman ok. What I’ve found is that is that small holes aren’t reliable for accurate fits using this method. Larger ho,es are fine. The problem is that tolerances remain the same regardless of hole size. You can see the problem. 0.002” can be enough to break taps on small sizes, or give fits that are too loose. True that mostly it won’t be a problem, but I’ve found that it can. Tap type can determine this as well. The strongest tap is a three flute spiral tip. The weakest is a two flute spiral. There are a lot of variables.
@@melgross The standard calls out a minor diameter of 3.242 mm to 3.422 mm. 0.18 mm / 0.007" tolerance for M4. That means that the supplier is definitely off the hook.
Have you thought about using the Polycam app to do 3D scans?
Yeah I was going to recommend the same thing. It might not be accurate enough to be able to fit first try kind of thing but should at least get you most of the way there.
Right.
James. Try using Isopropyl Alcohol pure or close to pure in a spray bottle on aluminum. It works great for milling and drilling, not so good for tapping. It leaves no oily mess afterwards as it evaporates. Try it, you might be very surprised.
so you offer a kit I have the same mill
👍👏👏👏
Maybe you need to add a foot brake that shuts off the mill for tapping like i emailed you about a few months ago 😉
I read your comment and thought about it.
I enjoyed the nods to Blondihacks and Jeremy Schmidt.
So wait , if you raise the knee , it reads - on the dro or +?
Yes, as @Silicon Alchemist stated, it should be negative (or decreasing) as the knee moves up.
Z movements (whether its the knee or the quill) is always tool getting closer to work (so quill DOWN or knee UP) is Negative or decreasing value and tool getting further from work (i.e., quill UP or knee DOWN) is Positive or increasing value....
Basically, you always think in tool movement regardless of what is actually moving.
This tends to trip up people on vertical mills a lot on all axis because of the fact of the work is whats moving most of the time, not the tool moving but you have to think in tool movement, not work movement.
He has a 4 axis DRO with 2 axes sharing the Z readout. He set them to calculate the differences between positions so yes.
Remember, the readout is displaying the relationship of the tool to the part not neccesarily the position of the knee or the quill. So raising the knee has the same affect on the readout as lowering the quill in relationship of the tool to the work.
What ever happened to the days of "By the seat of my pants!" lol
There's still plenty of opportunities for that.
Rather than a zip tie that cable would sure look good with an over-engineered carbon fiber bracket.
That's about my speed.
Just for fun, I'd like to see the quill touching the vice and set zero. Then raise the table. The Z should remain at zero while moving. 😁
That would be interesting to try. I would expect a little flex in the machine.
My experience with PLA is it is strongest when the print is new a fresh, but the older the print gets, the weaker it gets. Nylon should keep it's strength for a much longer period of time.
I think you are going to find it hard to get to your quill stop and you will want to use it all the time for drill and counter bore depth to stop power feed on boring operations to move tool up out of way for checking or changing parts. You do want to be able to easily use quill stop in fact I would suggest changing to a push button quick stop.
It's easily accessible from the right side. A pushbutton quick stop would be a good addition.
9:40 - you might appreciate the "Heat Insert Press" project that Adafruit did a little while back. On TH-cam as v=bbsD-3_AP_0 ... though seems you've got a pretty alright solution, theirs may give you the ease of getting them "placed in perfectly the first time" (9:51) that you're currently lacking. Just an option, in case you're interested!
I've seen a few. I actually have a Dremel drill press that would make an excellent platform for such a tool.
@@Clough42 There ya go! Nice. If you modify it to the purpose, let me (and/or us all) know how it goes. :)
Strange how I’ve always thought, do I need a 3D printer, the more I watch your channel the more I realise what the answer is 👴🏻👍
Everyone needs a 3D printer. Or two. Or five.
I found myself cringing and screaming at the TV "don't do it" when I saw the handheld tapping sequence. Been there with broken taps to prove it ..... until I bought a Roscamat Mosquito electric tapping arm. No more broken taps and all tapping is now done offline. Lovely piece of kit. There are other brands but don't buy a compressed air driven version.
In actually thinking about putting a tapping head and a float lock vise on my drill press to give it purpose.
You wanna borrow my 3d scanner? Its a Creality CR-Scan Lizard. A little late since you've already made your project.
Hi James. First comment, first thumbs up! What did I win?!
A warm feeling of accomplishment.
how come everyone who uses noga tools always has to mention it's a noga tool every single time they use it
Because if I don't, I get never-ending comments asking what that tool was.
@@Clough42 that's fair, thanks for taking the time to reply
You think your brain works? I do to .....