Was wondering the whole time, how to fit the dash in the GC8, seen lot's of those.. big thanks to you to cover the process, should be realy helping us others with the swap!! :)
Why did you drill more holes in the shell to fit dash bar? Why didnt you cut the end flange off the original bar, bolt that into original holes, then cut flange off new bar.bolt bew bar into car, and butg it up to the old flange, tack it on then remove and weld, instead of drilling even more holes in the shell.... just a thought. :-). You could've done it both sides, and then you wouldnt have to measure to square up. Awesome work btw. Gonna be a really nice unique car.
Jason Edwards Hey man, I didn’t drill new holes in the shell, I only drilled new holes in the dash beam. As you said, I could have welded the GC end plates on the GD dash beam but that would take away the reference points for the longitudinal position of the beam. This is very important when trying to find the correct position of the beam inside the GC shell. If you measure things carefully beforehand it should still work, but since most people want to keep it simple and don’t have access to a welder I preferred to show it this way. In my case it doesn’t matter anyways since I’m not using this subaru dash beam any more, i’m using a new bar that came with my roll cage, so i need to measure and weld every fixture bracket individually. Hope that answers your questions 🤙🏻
@@SwissTuned hiya mate. yea see what you mean. makes total sense. Doing an amzing job there, bud gets dsunting doesnt it.... i find it easiest to focus on one job at a time, or i get bogged down if i think about entire car build lol. Im building a 900+ bhp evo 5 lol. So im in same boat as you really :-). Lol sorry, i thiught you'd drilled the shell. Apologies. :-)
Hi, you can do it two ways: 1. Use the 2.5rs brake and clutch pedal and get the iWire adapter plate for the GD gas pedal (that’s what i did at first) 2. Modify the bracket on the firewall to hold the GD brake and clutch pedals in the correct position. You’ll need to also adjust the hole for the clutch master cylinder in the firewall. And you should still use the iWire adapter for the gas pedal. (That’s what i ended up doing) You can find pictures of the modifications to the firewall on my instagram (at) swiss_tuned Feel free to message me on insta if you don’t find the pictures
How did you get your brake and clutch pedal Assembly to fit ? The part of the pedals that goes to the master cylinder for clutch is hitting my heater core box
Josh Cowles I did not have this issue, maybe your heater core is placed further left than mine 🤔 I did have to remove the plastic piece that guides the air onto your feet, not sure if that’s what you mean
I made two small metal brackets which are riveted to the dashboard and then put nutserts into the firewall to bolt everything together. If shoot me a message on insta @Swiss_Tuned I can send you pictures :)
9:23 when you drilled only one hole did you only bolt down the two nuts? I have drilled also that one hole but then the two holes further back are off alignment
There are a few options here, I went with the entire GD wiring harness (interior and engine bay). You could use a harness from iWire to merge the GC and GD bits, but either way you'll probably need the GD dash harness to use any of the GD components in the dash. Some people also just put the GD dash with the GC gauge cluster so they don't have to mess with wiring, but that's kind of a half-ass solution imho. Hope that helps
Yes absolutely. You basically won't need to adapt the trans tunnel, nor the firewall, nor will you have to hammer down the dash beam to get proper fitment. You'll basically just mount the dash beam and cut the dashboard until it sits tight against the firewall... child's play compared to fitting the heater core and blower box.
Laura Clarke I’ve never put in the last pieces since everything had to be removed again anyways. The car has been apart ever since. It will soon be put back together in its “final” configuration, so stay tuned for a few more videos and it will be you’ll see it done 😉
Guessing you mean for the level of the dash beam. Two reasons, one i don’t have an accurate level, two the car is on the lift so it might not be perfectly flat to begin with.
@@SwissTuned You could have used a little magnetic torpedo level on the bar. The level of the car itself would have no effect on the level of the bar within the vehicle....awesome video btw. Thanks for documenting the challenges of the swap so well.
@@Nicatlotus but that’s exactly what I don’t want. I want the bar to be level relative to the car, not the ground. If the car is tilted on the lift i need to set the bar also titled, otherwise it won’t be level once the car is back on the ground
Just curious if it would still be viable in your opinion to cut the STI coolant lines on the box and use rubber lines to get them routed out the original GC holes in the firewall?...Just a thought.
You could try for sure, but i’m not certain there is enough room to fit rubber lines back there. It’s already a tight fit, you’d have to check where the GC holes are in relation to the GD box and pray that they don’t already interfere. But as long as you can get them connected i don’t see any issue
You're doing the lord's work here.
Haha thanks! Blood sweat and tears, but isn't that the fun? :p
I didn’t know you could do this - this car is going to be absolutely amazing sir.
I appreciate the tips on getting this done. It has helped me tremendously on doing my SF5 Forester swap. Thanks again!
I have to give u two thumbs up buddy. Great job on explaining and making this video. Finally someone took the initiative. Keep up the good work.
This video give me a lot of peace hahah, because i was so confused for this conversion.
Good Work !!
2Panzhoo Thanks man!
Looking good, did this 11 years ago aswell! keep it up mate! Greetz from the Netherlands.
been searching for this for so long. thank you. will you all the best
Was wondering the whole time, how to fit the dash in the GC8, seen lot's of those.. big thanks to you to cover the process, should be realy helping us others with the swap!! :)
Wow man this is reverse engineering at its finest I absolutely love it keep up the great work
your videos are very helpful and informative. thank you.
Damn. Not too shabby. Nice work.
literally a life saver. Thank you
Absolute legend.
Looks good, keep the videos coming
dunno how u afford but damn dope videos!
Why did you drill more holes in the shell to fit dash bar? Why didnt you cut the end flange off the original bar, bolt that into original holes, then cut flange off new bar.bolt bew bar into car, and butg it up to the old flange, tack it on then remove and weld, instead of drilling even more holes in the shell.... just a thought. :-). You could've done it both sides, and then you wouldnt have to measure to square up. Awesome work btw. Gonna be a really nice unique car.
Jason Edwards Hey man, I didn’t drill new holes in the shell, I only drilled new holes in the dash beam. As you said, I could have welded the GC end plates on the GD dash beam but that would take away the reference points for the longitudinal position of the beam. This is very important when trying to find the correct position of the beam inside the GC shell. If you measure things carefully beforehand it should still work, but since most people want to keep it simple and don’t have access to a welder I preferred to show it this way.
In my case it doesn’t matter anyways since I’m not using this subaru dash beam any more, i’m using a new bar that came with my roll cage, so i need to measure and weld every fixture bracket individually.
Hope that answers your questions 🤙🏻
@@SwissTuned hiya mate. yea see what you mean. makes total sense. Doing an amzing job there, bud gets dsunting doesnt it.... i find it easiest to focus on one job at a time, or i get bogged down if i think about entire car build lol. Im building a 900+ bhp evo 5 lol. So im in same boat as you really :-). Lol sorry, i thiught you'd drilled the shell. Apologies. :-)
Jason Edwards No worries man 🤙🏻 And good luck with your crazy evo build!
@@SwissTuned thankyou mate. :-) likewise. Good luck with yours. Sure it will all go smoothly for you :-)
What did you do for body harness wiring? Any video of that?
Certainly have a video on it, build episode 18 😉
th-cam.com/video/B8GtpabDvg4/w-d-xo.html
You’re the goat!
can stock gc8 wiring good to go swap this GD dash? because i have plan just swap dash
Amazing
Are you using the GD steering column?
Affirmative
Hate that I love you!!
How did you get the clutch pedals to line up? We have a 2001 RS2.5 and the pedals from the 2005 STI don't fit correctly.
Hi, you can do it two ways:
1. Use the 2.5rs brake and clutch pedal and get the iWire adapter plate for the GD gas pedal (that’s what i did at first)
2. Modify the bracket on the firewall to hold the GD brake and clutch pedals in the correct position. You’ll need to also adjust the hole for the clutch master cylinder in the firewall. And you should still use the iWire adapter for the gas pedal. (That’s what i ended up doing)
You can find pictures of the modifications to the firewall on my instagram (at) swiss_tuned
Feel free to message me on insta if you don’t find the pictures
How did you get your brake and clutch pedal Assembly to fit ? The part of the pedals that goes to the master cylinder for clutch is hitting my heater core box
Josh Cowles I did not have this issue, maybe your heater core is placed further left than mine 🤔
I did have to remove the plastic piece that guides the air onto your feet, not sure if that’s what you mean
I was view 555. I feel pretty special.
Wayne S. Thats awesome :p
How did you mount the dash on the tabs above the firewall right below the windshield?
I made two small metal brackets which are riveted to the dashboard and then put nutserts into the firewall to bolt everything together. If shoot me a message on insta @Swiss_Tuned I can send you pictures :)
9:23 when you drilled only one hole did you only bolt down the two nuts? I have drilled also that one hole but then the two holes further back are off alignment
I believe all holes lined up after i drilled that one hole for the stud. What year is your GC?
@@SwissTuned gc8 1997
@@SnipingWithSkillz same as mine, it should also line up. How far off are the holes in the back?
What ac lines did you use?
All GD sti
What wiring do you need to do this
There are a few options here, I went with the entire GD wiring harness (interior and engine bay). You could use a harness from iWire to merge the GC and GD bits, but either way you'll probably need the GD dash harness to use any of the GD components in the dash. Some people also just put the GD dash with the GC gauge cluster so they don't have to mess with wiring, but that's kind of a half-ass solution imho. Hope that helps
So no wires had to be cut at all?
Michael Cortez In my case no, just for the headlights, tail lights, and some of the door switches, but none for the dash or the engine 👍🏻
whats up no door cards? how do those fit
Matthew Powell GD door cards don’t fit the GC. But watch episodes 19 and 21 to see how I integrated the GD controls in the GC doors ✌🏻
So if we are doing the swap and dont want the heater box things are alot easier?
Yes absolutely. You basically won't need to adapt the trans tunnel, nor the firewall, nor will you have to hammer down the dash beam to get proper fitment. You'll basically just mount the dash beam and cut the dashboard until it sits tight against the firewall... child's play compared to fitting the heater core and blower box.
So what did the end result look like
Laura Clarke I’ve never put in the last pieces since everything had to be removed again anyways. The car has been apart ever since. It will soon be put back together in its “final” configuration, so stay tuned for a few more videos and it will be you’ll see it done 😉
Why didn’t you just use an actual level?
Guessing you mean for the level of the dash beam. Two reasons, one i don’t have an accurate level, two the car is on the lift so it might not be perfectly flat to begin with.
@@SwissTuned You could have used a little magnetic torpedo level on the bar. The level of the car itself would have no effect on the level of the bar within the vehicle....awesome video btw. Thanks for documenting the challenges of the swap so well.
@@Nicatlotus but that’s exactly what I don’t want. I want the bar to be level relative to the car, not the ground. If the car is tilted on the lift i need to set the bar also titled, otherwise it won’t be level once the car is back on the ground
Just curious if it would still be viable in your opinion to cut the STI coolant lines on the box and use rubber lines to get them routed out the original GC holes in the firewall?...Just a thought.
You could try for sure, but i’m not certain there is enough room to fit rubber lines back there. It’s already a tight fit, you’d have to check where the GC holes are in relation to the GD box and pray that they don’t already interfere.
But as long as you can get them connected i don’t see any issue
Way too much work for a steering wheel and some guages. The sti gc8 clusters are clean, especially with the nardi wheel.
Stop calling GD dash as STI dash. GC is also STI and it looks a lot better than GD dash
Semijs Hey, that is entirely your opinion. In my opinion the GD dash looks better, otherwise I would have kept the old one ✌🏻
Semijs Oh and in my case the GC dash is not an STI dash, so there is no confusion between the GD STI dash and the regular GC dash here.