Repairing Lath and Plaster
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 13 ก.ย. 2024
- A look at how we patched damaged areas of lath and plaster on the walls and ceilings before plastering.
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Excellant info especially the bit where you actually showed using the trowel to get the plaster off of the lathe. All others usually say "as you can see the plaster has come away from the lathe around the area due to the reciprocating saw or similar tool used."
Great video. If time is pressing, could you drill a few holes and try foam to help it stop moving?
I'm so greatful for this video. So informative and has saved me an aboustle fortune.Thank you so much
So glad I found this channel, what an absolute treasure trove of great advice.
Fantastic walkthrough - excellent tips, pvc and scoring!
Loving those original walls! Thank you for sharing dear
You have come a very long way. I am sure you do not miss the dirt, rubble and dust. I hope you are enjoying your clean bright home.
Don't miss it one bit, still haven't done carpets or stair joinery but we'll leave that for the autumn. :-)
all that work and effort a year before really paid off. looks perfect. great job
PS: hahahahaha just saw Jo photobombing your vid at the end. lol....it seems the kids and animals aren't the only ones doing it lol
Love your channel - keep up the good work.
I would however urge people to use lime plaster to do patch repairs like this. The material may be a bit more expensive but it takes no more time - just patience between coats. I recently did some similar patch repairs in my house. Lath walls done with lime plaster is a traditional material and provides better sound insulation than plasterboard.
We used lime extensively on all external walls but simply no need to on internal stud walls, not unless a historic building that has not already suffered from previous ‘renovations’. 👍
Thank so much.
I have a small area of chrysotile in my ceiling in downstairs utility. Just wondering is it better to remove all with aspestos firm or retail original lathe strips?
What are you using over the patched area? Is it plaster? It doesn't look like joint compound. It's interesting to see how contractors work in other countries. He said 9mm so I guess he's referring to ¼ in. drywall. Metric isn't used here.
Hi there. I have a house with rock lathe walls and ceiling. Is like a 2x4 sheet with plaster over and had a gritty rough finish texture I need to patch. How would I go about this?
What would you do if the lathes were broke in the area of the damage? Great video by the way.
Common sense dictat would be to cut the lath out midway between the closest vertical timber stud on both sides of the break and replace that section. That way they can all be fixed to the vertical and then patched up as per the video.
Hehe, just when you thought you were nearly finished, love the outtake!
Thanks!
Quick question if I may. We have plaster lathe walls that are soft or spongey in areas. Would this repair option work on those areas or would it be better to plasterboard the whole wall. It’s a wall in our box room. Any idea what causes the sponginess? Thanks
Can you skim coat over blown plastered walls ?
Thank you
Fantsatic job. Did you skim the walls yourself?
Not that time, I leave that to the pro! Smaller walls or bathrooms maybe but 3m ceilings and all that natural light would show up how 'rustic' my skimming is!
Thanks for the reply, great channel!
Nice job
Would you use the same technique for a ceiling?
Don’t see why not. 👍
Why not replaster? Fill it with plaster and not board?
It seems plasterers don’t even know what ‘lime plaster’ is these days. Can’t count how many times they’ve suggested ‘dot and dab’ instead after a confused pause.
Hi, Do you use SBR or PVA?
PVA for inside when it comes to plastering. Only really used SBR on the patio work last year.
Thanks, I know some people use watered down SBR inside as well as its a stronger product. Keep up the good work and your tips.
see, i would have tried this method.. but, it would have turned into a "full Gut job" haha.. good job!
Prying one weak spot would lead to another, kinda-weak spot and the boom! All plaster is on the floor!
Just get some lime putty sort you right out!! ;)
If money were no option would you rip the whole house out and re-plaster?
That stuff looks a pig! When was the house made?
It's actually not a real huge cost to rip out and board, as the only cost is the plasterboard and screws. It is the sheer disruption, dust, and unnecessary waste. I try and keep what I can as it has done pretty well for 110 years so can't be that bad. If not living in during reno then perhaps a bit more tempted to gut everything but again it would create much more work and waste.
Cha'mone