The secret to cinematic FPV is motion blur. Here's how to master it.
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 พ.ค. 2024
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00:00:00 - Motion blur: the key to high-quality video
00:00:51 - Where does motion blur come from?
00:01:27 - Aperture and exposure
00:03:08 - ISO and image noise
00:04:54 - Shutter speed and motion blur
00:08:08 - Low shutter speed for extreme motion blur
00:09:42 - Shutter angle = how much motion blur
00:12:20 - How to think about motion blur
00:13:21 - The problem with GoPros and how ND filters fix it
00:16:14 - My preferred setup: Auto shutter, ISO locked at 100
00:17:41 - Locked shutter results in over-exposure
00:18:39 - Why I never lock both shutter and ISO
00:19:58 - This is the "correct" way. But not my way.
00:22:59 - Why not also use auto ISO?
00:24:02 - Two things we overlooked
The basics of photography and some videography in less than half an hour without making me sleepy. teaching is a skill and an art, you don't have to be a guru in something to teach it well but you have to be a good teacher. well done Bardwell.
As a freelance photographer/videographer with a degree as a media engineer I can say this was very well explained beginning to end and I watched all of it although I didn't learn anything new :) I agree that getting the right exposure with locked shutter really is a nightmare sometimes!
An additonal topic you could have discussed is the behavior of motion blur in relation to proximity (and also speed of course), that's why 360 degree shutter feels a bit too much in your backyard, but when you're cruising a mountain range it should be fine. I personally like 90 degree shutter for my footage, so I have a clear image and blur at the edges and if I get close to stuff. The extreme wide angle of a GoPro causes the edges of the image to move faster than to center which gives the amazing sense of speed in FPV videos, but only with shutter angles 90 degree or higher.
I really liked the locked exposure with auto ISO in your example, I would even set the ISO limit to 100-400. if you fly through a dark area it should reflect in the image getting darker, I personally don't like video where it brightens up as you go into darker areas, it looks cheap and a bit unnatural to me. When you hit a bridge gap for example and the auto exposure brightens your image for a really short time it really triggers me visually :D
+1 for this. I'd rather set a manual exposure that allows for detail to be recovered in post where possible.
Good points from the pro, thank you for ideas! So to clarify, should the best setting for "auto improved gopro" settings be in 50 fps: 1/200 shutter with iso 100min 400max and probably ND8 in really bright sunshines? (sharpness low ofc).
Or for other test I will do the iso 100-400 and auto shutter without ND filter. Learning the "pros basics" and postproduction slowly as winter kicked in.
And btw would these settings be the same as "most optimal" for cruising in the mountain compared to cinewhooping indoor?
@@tomaszboril I usually film at 4k50 at 1/100 shutter and fixed ISO at 100 (but 400 max Auto Iso is debatable) and ND16 is my most common sunny day choice, ND8 for more cloudy weather.
@@morimetz thanks! Guess I will try to make similar shots with both settings and compare, for more action sports shots I assume the less motion blur will fit better.
Mr.Bardwell, plz let me tell you that you have SO UNDERSTANDABLE English for a non native eng speaker, that I truly want to shake your hand and tell you THANK YOU. The way you speaking and usage of simply and well known words saving just tons of time because it can be understood without subs, at normal or even X2 speed and so on.
Hey JB. I am one of those professional cameramen. I fly with locked shutter and iso. But for another reason than you might expect. To explain this, it is best to take your example flying behind your shed. My thinking is that people who watch the video are looking at where you are flying to. So I look at the meadow behind the shed. Which, with your settings, blows out. In my opinion that is not preferable. As a cameraman I always take in account what part of the frame people are looking at.
So I knew all theory before watching your video. But still I watched it. Great video!
I dont know why but i really like the footage of the locked iso and shutter + nd32 at 19:01, even when it goes underexposed
yeah i was a bit perplexed when the supposedly under exposed bits were fine, in fact those whole sequences were a bit over exposed for me.
This are the best settings for this environment. You also want shaddows where shaddow are! 😇
I agree, the shadows didn't bother me one bit, if anything, it made the footage feel more realistic
What an absolute masterclass, thanks for being so thorough without bogging it down!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Yep this was a good one
Genius ☺️✨
As a videographer, and newbie in droning, I was eagerly waiting for the last point, hands on the keyboard, but no...
You covered it all 🤪
Your content is very precious Joshua, thank yoy so much 🙏✨
I honestly wish i found this video when i was first starting out with camera drones, before ever even getting into FPV. You explain the photography/videography basics better than almost any video ive ever watched (and ive watched a TON on this topic).
Excellent video JB! Thanks for clearing up a few things for me🙌🤙🏾
You can get additional control over motion blur using GoPro Labs firmware (free for all GoPro cameras from HERO7 onward.) Labs has a feature called Maximum Shutter Angle, which you can set the blur maximum to 180, 90 or 45° etc., while maintaining a fully auto exposure (auto shutter and ISO.) This feature was added as a request from FPV users a couple of years ago.
Wish they would also allow minimum angle.
@@JoshuaBardwell that was added for HERO11 and HERO11 Mini. Both of these cameras support a minimum and maximum shutter speed control. Added in the Labs release on Nov 8, 22
Thanks for the Tip David!
@@0dan0 thank you! However struggle to find exact way and instruction how to setup "auto" mode to operate with shutter speed of 1/100 - 1/200 in 25fps mode. Any hints? Those are probably command and saved to the "preset" selected in camera, right.
I think there are two ways to get the best. If you have a pro-grade camera set the SS and let the camera to correct EV by Auto ISO. If you fly with GoPro lock the ISO and be happy with what you've got :) Digital motion blur effect is not a bad idea, just use a mask to select the aria to stay in focus.
I already know this stuff but I love the way you explained it.
Great work Joshua.
This video was super informative! Thank you. TLDR for me: on GoPro with drone use ISO 100, auto shutter speed and adjust ND filter to the conditions: super sunny days- use nd32; cloudy day - use nd16; dark day - use nd8; super dark or inside house - give a try to no filter…
Very infomative, and the practical demonstrations really helps to cement understanding. Thanks.
I disagree with running variable iso with locked shutter and nd filter in your example. I feel like the flight on your day shows the differences in light and dark areas you fly, and it keeps the exposure consistent. Watching the sky/clouds helps. When iso is variable you get just that. You get adjustments in the exposure. I think Nurk also leans this way. Like you said, it’s still preference of the pilot of videographer. As always, great video, Joshua.
Edit: I understand there are likely use cases where it might be better to leave iso variable, but my overall argument is that for cinematic purposes locked shutter and iso are probably ideal.
Joshua, you're a star and your timing is impeccable. This info is exactly what I needed right now. Thank you! 😁
I learned something today for like the next 3 months! Great video Joshua!
I'm guessing you're an actual genius, but dude your ability to explain things is truly genius. Very few people on the planet I respect more than you
I definitely learned something today. Thanks alot JB.
Great explanation about this topic 😁👍👍👍 I definitely learned something today 😉👍 Thank you ✌️
In my experience I think the 180 rule works ok for the cinematic mountain diving kind of stuff, but for proximity that's what I like to do, it makes everything too much blurry. I absolutely agree with your approach.
Definitely. It's especially with the pilots who fly close proximity that I find the video just about unwatchable. Vanover and Steele are the two I'm thinking of at the moment. Steele puts the analog feed in the corner quite often and I end up watching that instead of the GoPro feed just because it doesn't make me feel dizzy/give me a headache.
Perhaps it just annoys me more than most people because I've watched so many low bitrate videos and modern codecs become more blurry-looking as the bitrate goes lower. So videos that are blurry always just feel to me like low quality videos.
Great info and explanation Joshua, thanks!
Thank you for this one. I appreciate you!
Fantastic explanations! Thank you for sharing! :)
What a great explanation!
Not the video we wanted but definitely the video we needed. Thanks JB ! Gonna play with some shutter, iso, and nd filters 🤓
Great video. Normally only doing photography so hadn't properly consider the impact of frames per second!
And again, your videos helped me a lot!
I think the issue with GyroFlow or ReelSteady and motion blur is that if you have any shaking from wind or prop wash, the video will be smoothed but the motion blur will still be there. I have a few videos where I have used ReelSteady with camera settings for motion blur and think they cam out OK, but I did identify some parts that I could not use due to motion blur from prop wash or wind. On a windy day, using ReelSteady with motion blur would result in unusable video.
This was a well thought out video, learned more from it than many other videos that were 3x the length
This was a great, great video. I can build and tune a quad, but when it comes up to setting up my camera I am definitely behind on that. Thanks for the video, hope to see more like this.
This is crazy good info JB! Thanks buddy!
This is a really really good video here! Explains a lot and honestly my best settings have also been 100-200 Iso locked and auto shutter. Works for me just fine. Thank you Josh for this one!🤜
I saw some many videos regarding this and finaly someone explains it at it should be. Thank you fo that.
Excellent explanation Professor Bardwell. 👏
I never had this explained so clear. Thx allot for that!
That’s definitely the most comprehensive simple explanation for this concept I’ve seen. Thanks! Also, TH-cam recommended a livestream, not sure it made the best pick
Does TH-cam ever recommend anything that doesn’t lead us the wrong way? It’s almost like the algorithms are set up to do that… 🤷♂️
Great video, thank you!
Great video Joshua! ❤
OMG I can't agree with you more! I was watching the first part of the video and already thinking about commenting that whenever I lock the shutter in the gopro I get overexposed or underexposed footage that ruins my flight, when I turn it to auto, I get amazing videos. I have NDs, but when I fly, I go through so many scenarios, that AUTO shutter is the way to go for me ! Thank you for explaining this theory applied to FPV. FINALLY (I am obviously subbed)
Great job on this Jb . 👍🏻
Great info JB!
That was really well explained and will be sharing this in a few drone groups to help explain to those obsessed with the 180 rule when they do not even understand why it is (sometimes) required.
Great video!
I found out personally that there isn't a 'perfect' method that does it all.
When it's possible though, I'll dial in a static shutter and iso value. This is objectively the best method like you pointed out.
On a perfect sunny day where the sun is basically at it's highest this will net the best results for cinematic footage. (With the same lighting conditions this is more difficult to achieve on the Action 2 somehow)
this is a great guide for people that dont do a lot of editing in post.
I myself fly a lot of FPV for cinematic and commercial purposes. The most important thing is to tell the camera what to do and not let it decide for itself.
For example the shutter is always at 180° and the iso is either fixed or as low as possible with a maximum of 400. Then you use the correct ND filter.
If you happen to fly through some darker areas yes, the footage will be underexposed but since your ISO is not to high you can bring back a lot in post without getting a noisy image.
Joshua is absolutely right about everything he is saying! However if you want the best quality and dont shy away from some work in your editing program there is no way around the 180° shutter, locked or as low as possible ISO and the correct ND filter 😄
Great video!
You are a God at teaching things!
Great video! I learned something today. 😊
JB thank u for a great video.
Great video!!
Very informational
I love the johnny style overused motion blur but different people have sifferent preferences
Thanks for more great content! I started watching your channel when you did the interview with the Ukrainian civilian drone guys helping in the war. TH-cam put it in my feed probably because I still watch lots of military type stuff. I’m a Marine artillery vet and the interview (not sure if it’s still up. Lots of people seemed to be getting their panties in a bind over that great interview you did) was what got me into FPV ironically. Anyway, six months later, here I am flying FPV and learning about motion blur! Thanks for introducing me to fpv and helping me get in the air!
PS: a great way to expand this hobby would be to reach out and work with the veteran community. Most of us literally signed away our lives for four or more years just to do stuff like this. And you’ll never find a better group of people who will stand up for our right to fly FPV and put pressure on politicians to do so. Just a thought with the Marine Corps birthday coming tomorrow and the other branches getting Veterans Day on Friday 😂🇺🇸
I think this vido was literally made for me, thank you joshua.
Here's something you missed. If you are playing back a 100fps recording at 100fps, so real time and not slowed down you actually want 1/50th like you would at 24fps. The only reason you want 180deg is if you are playing it back slowed down to 24fps. 1/50th of a second is about the right amount of blur for any shutter speed if the goal is to play back at the same speed. so if you record at 60fps to playback on TH-cam at 60fps you would want 1/50 again lol.. Check Gerald Undone's video on the subject. Some awesome camera's have digital nd filters. I wish they were more prolific.
Actually some cameras suffer from judder when the shutter is longer then the frame rate. So try 360deg shutter for fps 60 and above for real time playback.
Just as an additon to my previous comment - I do realise that frames could be 'stacked' (buffered) to allow frame 'overlap' to occur, but I know of no 'available to mere mortal' type cameras that actually do that as it requires post-processing. Can you guys point me to some models that allow this? (if you know of any) Cheers!
I did watch that video. It was interesting as well.
Thank you very much.
It’s about global shutter as well as 180 rule
@@clifffield1 why does it have to be done in camera?
7:20 - My gf walks in and says "Why you're looking at the shadow of a pooping dog" 😂
One thing to keep in mind with motion blur is the effect post stabilization has and makes it have the weird freeze blur
Really good video jb.
Great tutorial....ace!
Guys, this video need a big thumb up seriously! Way knowledgeable to the viewers than most of the showing off videos out there! Talking about helpful for beginners, this is it!
Hi Joshua I love your videos. In addition to the things you talked about here there are other things that are considered in the lighting of a video. First the style of light you want to create with the video. Examples of light styles are: precious, de-dramatized, errorist, feist, postmodern, baroque, expressionist, and naturalist. The one that I use the most is the naturalistic one since that way I create a sensation of reality. I don't think you have to have a perfectly exposed light all the time, most of the time yes but not all shadows are bad. There is a thing called zonal key and this defines the amount of light that is in a frame, it is the zone system that divides the image on a scale of 10 gray values between black and white, they are called high key, medium key and low key. The most common and most correct is to use a medium key where black and white have a balance. Another thing is the level of contrast, it is a concept that is related to the zonal key, it is a value that informs us of the number of different grays that the image has, it is called high contrast, medium contrast and low contrast. The medium contrast allows us to distinguish a high range of grays that go from black to white, it is an image that allows us to better read all the information that is shown in a frame. For me the best thing is to use a shutter ruler of 180 and use nd filters as needed and use a profile color flat and edit the colors in a video editing program or if you don't have a computer to edit colors use the color profile of Gopro In short, my opinion is that the naturalistic light style is the best.
I shoot a lot of Boardsports and the common thing to do is shoot 180' for lifestyle and more like 90' for fast motion. Unless you are going for a stylised effect I agree with you 180' often will look too blurry and sometimes can even ruin shots.
This is amazing explanation, I've watched many videos and this is was very thorough with a good practical explanation. I too for now like to use Auto as someone n early stages of videography.
I think you are right with the choice of settings. Having the shutter speed at double the frame rate is optimal but almost impossible to get it right with brightness changes in the scenery. On top choosing the right nd filter can be a pain and yes, clouds sometimes move fast which makes everything quite unpredictable.
Really informative
I definitely learned something today 👍
excellent video
Really great explanation of ISO, Iris, Shutter and ND! I may use that link for newbies!
The disadvantage in GoPros is, that with the shutter locked, it won't allow you to set for an exposure correction anymore, so even if you set ISO to auto, it tends towards it's default overexposed behaviour. This is pretty sad, as I'd really keep my shutter locked but sometimes have the camera correct for darker spots.
Still, I prefer some underexposed shadows over the pumping behaviour of the GoPro's auto-exposure feature - especially in the woods. To me it just feels completely natural and cozy to have shadows under trees. So even in your example I prefer the fixed shutter speed example over the auto-stutter/ISO ones. Where this approach fails however: During a bando flight I perfectly exposed for the outside with fixed shutter and then ended up with a black video once I flew through that dark building ;D
Thanks!
Good one Joshua, I’ll try to play more with the settings 🙂
This is very instructive. Seems to be the way to go for fpv when you have so much différence between Sun and dark in Woods...
But for cinematic with for exemple a cinewhoop or a dji mini/Mavic style and when the bright of scene don't change : you have to fix the shutterspeed to have the best motion Blur effect (and the one you want)
Thanks man!
wow, i'm also into videography stuff and i learned more about it here than from watching videos specializing in videography haha. great video thanks!
thats right! correct exposure is much more important than Motion Blur! So keep the ISO always at 100 (lowest) and the Shutter on Auto. Add a ND-Filter (ND16 by sunny days, ND8 bv clody days) and you get good looking Videos.
Great video
Great work man! Especially with the propellor visualization, beautifully done.
No one asked. But..
My basic GoPro cheat sheet with commercial work is:
24fps, 1/48th shutter, locked iso 100, temp 5500, color “flat” bitrate 100mbps
@rosshasadrone Quick question: with those locked settings, I assume you are adding an ND filter if needed? Then will adjust in post with anything funky?
Ive been going through the same problem. with good light my shots looks amazing but as soon as i get through dark areas i get underxposed. Now im here, learning your way to see what happends. I will inform you. Thanks for the video
Cinematic FPV pilot here - personally I'll take the darker shadows over the blown out highlights you get on Auto ISO. I cant stand watching exposure change throughout a shot. Locked 180 degree shutter/ISO all the way.
THAT BEING SAID if I'm planning to go exterior to fully interior auto ISO 100-1600 is the only option.
Thanks for another great video JB!
We need more of JB Masterclass Keep up the great work and Thumbs up
I don't usually comment on your videos, but I have to tip my cap to the presentation and the great tutorial. Thank you for good work!
That was excellent....... perhaps more of this type of 101 type tutorials
And even covering some basic editing, colour grading tips, guides.
Yes we can look at others but often your way of teaching and explaining is preferable.
Great explanation. I’m going to try kicking that iso at 100 tomorrow.
As the name motion blur implies, it is directional artifacts in the video from movement. Ie. the motion blur has a vector. Meaning that applying motion stabilization will result in periods of mismatch between the camera movement seen and the actual motion blur direction in the raw footage.
Ive several go pros, for Hero 6 Blacks I tend to use and ND filter (usually ND16), lock my shutter at 1/100 (frame rate 50p) but use a variable ISO of 100-400. Here in Ireland, that tends to be acceptable in most outdoor situations. Indoors, i just leave the ND off. On my Hero 9 Blacks, i find those settings gives too much blur, so 90 degree shutter works reasonably well. I find auto ISO so adjust the exposure more smoothly than auto shutter. I've an 18 year career in TV production with the last 8 as a Vision Engineer/Supervisor.
Thank you! Very informative.
If I understand correctly, when locking the iso and putting the shutter on auto you don't use nd filters? Or do you? Only in certain situations?
Just when I tought I learn from JB of quads.. and Michael Houghton for cinematic. JB Actually explaines it all perfect so that I as a compleet Noob understands why others do this.. thnx!!!
You, sir, are a wizard 🧙
Good video
Swings and roundabouts Joshua, especially with motion shots. Gopro's simply don't have the dynamic range needed compared to say Red cams etc etc. Personally I'd rather not have sky detail blown out as that's completely unrecoverable so I'd just lock the shutter and limit the iso much further. A lower iso will also help when pulling shadow back detail out of darker areas in post.
Really great advice JB even from a videographeres standpoint! Just fyi at 19:50 the lighting
under in the "darker" area was perfect but the rest was slightly overexposed.
Its easier to light a picture up in post versus darken it.
Btw: If you have not the latest GoPro Model like me(Hero9), I wouldnt set ISO max higher than 400 otherwise the video is going to look quite cheap cause theres to much grain. The GoPro 11 is more sensible to light and can handle higher ISO much better
I know you're right about the exposure, from a cinematic perspective. My personal preference is to show more shadow detail even at the expense of highlights. Maybe it's because, as an FPV pilot, highlights are always in the sky, where details are irrelevant (there's nothing up there), while shadow details are always some dark place I'm about to fly into, so I want to see what's there.
Fantastic, Joshua! Thanks a bunch for the lesson! 😃
But that's why I only use auto on everything. 😂
Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
a lot of people need to see this.
I learned something today... :)
Can you still have the ISO and Shutter locked, and use the ND filter, but turn on HDR? So it works on the shadows? Using the hero 12 for example (that has HDR)
Is this like PID tuning for your camera?? :-)
So do you need a nd filter indoors or at darker areas as well for motion blur?
Would be soo cool to get a video on how to edit/ coror grade etc. fpv videos!
What should I lock the ISO at if I’m going to run 60fps? Will this affect feed back to the goggles on the dji fpv drone or avata?
Ah.. it was so refreshing to finally see the bardwell yard at 30 fps 1/60 with an ND32. 🎉
Lately my favorite settings when using RSGO are 30fps, 1/120, 400 iso max, ND 16 (depending on the light). It creates some stunning results. I have yet to post my recent flights, but I’ve been playing around with my settings for years.
I will test those, interesting to find out ppl fly with 1/120. Do you have any recent footage online?
@@tomaszboril I haven’t posted it yet, but I can let you know once it’s uploaded.
Hey Joshua, I was trained as a professional videographer in my early career, and now I shoot adventure motorcycle videos for fun. I did a lot of experimentation with gopros and motion blur and came to exactly the same conclusion. One point that you didn't mention, but I discovered is that the auto ISO on GoPro does NOT behave the same as on a DSLR. On a DSLR, it will wait until the shutter speed starts getting too slow before increasing the ISO. But on GoPro, it seems to want to optimise for a faster shutter speed, so if you put it on auto iso with an ND filter, it will almost definitely crank up the ISO resulting in faster shutter (less motion blur) AND noisier images. So it works against the ND filter.
By the way, I've been using Skydio autonomous drones for my shoots, but I'm going to buy one of your kits and launch myself into the world of FTV.. .Looking forward to it. How fast do you think your kit drone will fly?
At least 70 mph.
@@JoshuaBardwell thx. One more quick question. I’m about to buy your 2022 budget drone kit. I assume DJI goggles 2 and DJI fpv controller 2 will work.
What motion blur is really doing is adding blurriness to the fast-moving parts of the image in order to try and hide the "strobe"/stuttery effect cameras have... It's essentially happening because the movement is too fast for the camera's frame rate. A better (and less dizzying) solution would be to use a faster frame rate. I'd love to see FPV shot at eg 240 fps. But personally I prefer the "stuttery" look over it being so blurry that I struggle to see where the quad is going (though it does make the FPV pilot look more impressive, so I'm not surprised that people like using it so much).
The issue with stabilization and motion blur doesn't really have anything to do with the stabilization algorithm, or with how it "looks" at or "analyzes" the footage - Reelsteady/GyroFlow/etc all use the gyro for stabilization, not the image. In fact, you could stabilize a completely black video no problem because the image isn't being analyzed by the algorithm. (well technically it is, but not for the stabilization part).
The problem shows up when you have motion that is pretty "bumpy" or random - because the motion is all over the place, you get motion blur in all sorts of directions. Which is fine, but then when you stabilize it, you have perfectly stable video, but with motion blur showing "motion" in all sorts of directions when there isn't any (due to the stabilization). If you set your shutter to around 1/240 (for 60fps) or 1/120 (for 30fps), you can still get a bit of motion blur without running into much of a problem.
Also, if your motion is fairly smooth or in one direction (like smoother or cinematic fpv) it really doesn't become an issue because the motion blur "matches" the motion. If you are walking or hiking or something where the motion is all over the place/bumpy, it's going to be more of an issue.
I have a full explanation of it here : camerabutter.com/en-ca/blogs/the-camera-butter-reel/nd-filters-and-hypersmooth-the-real-story-and-solution