I'm sure it's been said before, but I just marvel at what can be produced by what nature provides. I'm enjoying watching you take raw lumber, and turning it into a finished product. I take it for granted when I go into a Home Depot or Lowes or Lumber Yard that I can just buy whatever I need. I never thought how much work goes into producing the finished products. Kudos to the two of you!!!!!
I love all your videos . I am a old sawmill man that has sawed many log home patterns and millions of feet of lumber If possible try to keep the heart of the tree as close as possible to the center of your beams it will make it a much better product with less warping also less cracking of your timbers. keep the videos coming.
I️ hope you two tell each other how much you appreciate the others’ hard work. When you’re going through a process like this, that is a great form of payment. Love the videos! This is great!
Not trying to be weird or anything Pure Living for Life , but I love you guys ❤️. It's nice to see a couple working so well together and speaking to each other respectfully. Building a home is hard work, especially learning to do it yourself. You guys are awesome. :-)
I know about the lag between the videos and real-life; but I remember Jessie talking about building a community around things like the sawmill. If it’s your desire to let others come by and use the mill, then it’s definitely in your best interest to pour a pad.
I don't know if you guys will see this but just a hint. Save that sawdust. It's good compost. Also, if you're able, don't put the big booty end closer to the blade. Put the smaller end closer . It's less measuring that way. And I know you're pushing perfection, but after you get the hang of milling, don't sweat the rolling so much. Take your first cut and be confident in your decisions. You guys are awesome! Keep it up.
Set up your laser and use a story pole to level all your bed sections at the same time. You can’t use a 4 foot level to span 30 foot because of the slight variation in the level. You are doing great so use your level for what is was designed. Make sure all beds are loaded when checking level.
Hey Jesse - if you keep your movable blade guide closer to the beam, your accuracy will improve. A foot is too far - an inch is better! The band blade wants to wander up and down, especially when it’s getting dull. Keep an eye on it.
I'm sure these suggestions may come too late to be useful, but a gas powered leaf blower might be a time saver for blowing sawdust off the new cut beams and the mill rails. And the handle of that tool you use to roll the logs and beams on the mill looks like it could use an eight foot piece of 2 inch pipe as a cheater to slip over the end for more leverage on the really big beams. I'm glad you're back putting up videos. Hope the timber frame workshop went great.
I have to give it to them... They are some damn hard workers. Jessie's talking drives me crazy but they're accomplishing more than I could ever hope to do in my lifetime.
Alyssa, I know you don't read comments but in hopes of helping someone else heres the result of 35 years experience setting up saw mill equipment. 3 tools used. An optical surveyers transit, a machinest level with .001" graduations, and a piece of piano wire with a com a long to stretch the wire past yield. Just pull the wire 3 inches longer for every hundred feet. The wire is supported on 3/4" keystock at the extreme ends past your work zone. A third piece of the keystock should graze the wire when slid under it at all reference points. Side to side measurements such as the top of carrage track "V" rail measure to the side of the wire. Level on track is with the optical transit. Laser levels are not usable for this work where an optical transit easily reads 1/2 mm. With the carrage types the track is set first and the carrage knes ar shimmed up to the highest one. A traveling band is a little harder to tune errors out of . Same proceedure though with leveling the track first if it is welded to the bed sections and then use socket head screw (3/8 or 1/2") to mount 1/2 X 3 cold rolled flat stock on the bed tops which you can shim to the accuracy of the transit. If the track is bolted on level the bed support crossmembers first and if necessary add the 1/2 X 3" flatbar which can be shimmed at the ends and a few points between where the screws are located. Then shim the track to the bed sections. Steel shims are usually made from 3/4" wide banding material (.oo9") or 1-1/2" banding material (.017"). First pass is to lay the shims on the track or bed sectiond and read those before bolting them under the parts. Then read all the points again and adjust with strips cut from aluminum beer cans (.002.5") Also the equipment needs a concrete foundation for accuracy of level over time and system mass to contain shock loadsof turning 1100 pound timbers. You can not move the transit until completely finished.and the nice extruded aluminum tripods change leg length as the sun moves during the day so set the tripod wher one leg will not put another in a shadow
I think back in the early 80s I helped my friend build his post-beam home. The main timber was one piece 40 foot long and 15x15 inches. It was a beast that required 2 cranes to set. All mortise and tenons with serious nails and pegs. He still lives there and that monster is just fine.
Your stunningly beautiful decking material is what the "By Product" of the milling is...! As well as finishing wood etc.... There is always a great use for such resources. Peace, Love and Light!
Yeay! Daily fix of vids from you guys is satisfied. Love seeing your progress (even in catchup). Hope everything is going really well. Stay warm, safe and happy guys.
Your desire to be accurate makes me smile. I live in an ex-council (local authority)house, which was thrown up in the 60s, no wall is flat and at right angles. complete laugh at decorating time.
I noticed when you rolled the large log over the whole unit jumped and probably changed alignment. Your idea about a pad will be much better with some anchors installed to keep everything solid.
I love sawmill work... Are you boxing the hearts for the beams? You can also sink Cables into the ground to hod the mill in place using duckbill anchors. But really... only cut full length IF you need long timbers, once you have the beams you need and a few spares, start bucking the logs shorter. As for the slabs & boards...
I'm learning so much I don't plan to ever use! When I saw the whole bed slide as you turned the log I started thinking about your previous comment about using a laser level. I wonder if it's practical to setup reference lines on each bed section (and on both sides) and then checking with the laser before each cut. Depends whether you can adjust a bed section while loaded I suppose. You guys rock!
Also, cut and use stickers (I use 1x2s) between everything, especially your beams. The edges exposed to the air will shrink, warping the beam. Stickers will allow air on all sides, lessening the bending. Twisting too. FYI. Dave
I honestly can't tell if people are trying to help, or just being jerks. You guys are awesome! It's been so fun watching these vlogs, wish you nothing but the best!
I was thinking that one of those gasoline powered leaf blowers would come in handy to clean the sawdust off of the mill and log after each cut. Those timbers look immaculate. Great job.
Use a water level to measure even small differences in elevation over a large distance. Cheap to make and very useful for shooting grade and building large structures. You could even do a video on it!
You guys are doing a great job! I would definitely pour a slab and anchor the mill so it does not move but that is just my opinion having never used a saw mill before so take it with a grain of salt.
I've ran one of those sawmills before to build a small cabin and I would put the blade guide as close as possible to the wood to keep the saw blade from moving up and down as you saw !!! Just my 2 cents !!! Class A work, looking good !!!!
IDK, if it worth it or not, but if you have the problem with rotating beams(I know it too late, but I will write as if it is not :D) you could use the backhoe and the ribbon(do not know how the thing is called, that flat thow rope) you use to transport beam later, use that to rotate the beam. attach it to the stem the same way as you do when transporting it from the sawmill, but add additional few turns around the stem or partially cut beam, and lift the ribbon with the backhoe bucket, it should have sufficient friction to turn the thing, in a pretty controlable manner.
Thats awesome guys... so jealous. LOL! I do want make a small suggestion, I know you mentioned you are going to anchor seal the ends but you should also sticker between the boards to allow air to move all around... just a suggestion. Keep up the great work and I can't wait to see the house come together.
You might could look into getting the battery powered DeWalt 20v leaf blower to blow the saw dust off the log before rotating it, it would save alot of time. We use it on the job site all the time, it is awesome and definitely worth the money, it's $99 I think for the bare tool.
As always thanks for sharing, stay safe though now your getting into heavy lifts. Always think what will happen if a tool/item of equipment breaks, so your not in a danger zone or at risk of harm.
Hi, great fun watching you build your house. Always looking for your next vidios. It's tuff getting a light railway to stay where placed. If you have time you can set it on some heavy logs like railrode cross types except as big as you can get. Eight foot logs with flat spots cut on the top surface would work great. You could use crooked buts or whatever. Bury part in the ground to leval the top serfaces, pack the fill dirt so they're hard to move. Level your rail way on top then anker it to the tyes with all thread screwed into tight holes drilled into the tyes. You may have to adjust adjust it for leval and flat a few times till the sleepers settle but it will not be a constant fite. Best of luck Dan R
Re: the "calibration" of your saw mill. In case you haven't thought of this, heat will expand metal. One of the problems with band saws, is that when the temperature of the blade increases so does the total length of the blade. This usually results in a saw blade the will move up and down the cutting plane. Now, this is just my theory but you could easily test for this by securing a thermal temperature probe and point it at the blade as it is leaving the timber. That probe will give you an indication of the internal temperature of the wood and blade. As you are milling, have Alyssa log the temperature every inch (maybe mark the log every inch as reference points) and after milling go back and compare the temperature to the height of the log at every inch. If you find any areas that are not the correct, make a note of what the temperature was. After you preform this process along the entire log, you should have enough data to easily determine a statistical significance of "at what temperature does the blade starts to walk?" I would be very interested in your findings and would like to compare it against a circular saw mill.
kinda late to mention but it looks like the bed sections have stake pockets on the side? possible maybe to anchor it with stakes driven down into the ground at those points to keep it from moving side to side and front to back?
You guys are just flying through those logs. Good on ya. Man Our Ridge Beam is 12x18 Doug Fir. Crazy how different the rules are depending one where you are. Over all our Ridge is 53 Feet long. It will have a scarf joint in the middle when Jessica and I are brave enough to tackle the joinery on it. The one 27 foot long piece is over 1200 lbs...
I agree 100%. Although I would probably not sell them but store the extra for future projects. I put off ordering the logs for so long because I was not sure HOW or WHAT I needed. After spending a couple hours with the plans and realizing how little it cost to order Eastern White Pine locally I would have just ordered double and used the extra in barns, Jessica's dog school and other projects.
You guys are such an inspiration for me and my family. I can’t wait to see your new videos each day. Great content. Keep it up!! Where are you guys located? I’m sure you’ve said I must have missed it.
a concrete pad for the mill would be great, but...is there time? then again...how much time might it save if you don't have to readjust the mill frequently? your call. love the milling videos!
I really think that you need to look at your tolerances and say that 1/4 " over 25 ft is acceptable. Of course I know you're down all your milling now, but hey, what else can I comment on :) . Aside from maybe trying lift timbers with the front end of the loader.
I agree 100% that is way to tight a tolerance for a span that length, we are dealing with wood here, it is going to move more that 1/4" within the next month or so, you have unrealistic goals, do let perfect come in the way of good. You could spend much more time worrying about other more important things that you do have control over. LIke I said the building is going to move, so all your work is almost imeasurable in the context of what you are trying to do, get the building up. I have been in the building business for 40 years and was a building inspector. Steve
From what I have seen so far this mill is such a pain in the ass its unreal I know for a fact I will be buying a Lucas Mill once I get there 2 sides in one go is just one of the many advantages
Why not just buy more bed sections and mill full-length beams? You can always sell the extra bed sections when you're done. Pouring a pad is a smart idea. When you no longer need it for the mill, have someone with a concrete saw slice it up and use the pieces for a walkway.
I feel your pain with the logs. We built our house and used some logs we had milled for our land and a friends`. We started back in `85 to build the house. Years later we milled out logs for our big building. Hubby had no tractor till after the large structures were built, then he was cutting logs for the different mills. It was too much for us to have a mill in the yard so we had someone come in with the WoodMizer that I knew from school. His son now runs the mill. No bank money for us we paid as we went along. Saved a lot of headache for us just to have a pro with a saw, we provided the extra labour. We cleared 7 pines from the side of the house so that if they ever got damaged they would not fall on the house. We had to use block and tackle to take them down so they would not hit our roof and chimney. Hubby cut with the saw and the neighbour and I pulled the trees. When milled we had almost enough lumber to frame and cover the large building, it had a hip roof. We had corn whisks in our back pockets to clean the lumber and mill at all times. The few pieces that were not even were run through a plainer, now that made a difference. If we had to purchase all our lumber we might as well had given up without even beginning our build. Hats off to you both for what you are doing.
Good job guys, you did it. Couple of things, not criticizing but for future reference. Timber framing requires that your heartwood is centered in the beam. This is to keep checks from going all the way through your timbers as they dry and gives you the most stable timber possible. The other thing to make life easier is to mill from the narrow end of the log as well as laying out the timber before cutting with a level. Bebark and you will triple the life of the blade. I have several videos in my timber framing vlog on this stuff so I don't need to go too deep into it, the information is there. Nobody is perfect and I'm sure you two learned some good lessons on the dos and don'ts of sawmilling. It gets easier as you go and you will improve. Good work and keep learning, don't be too proud to look around at what others have done. Have a good one you two and I bet you're happy to have a house standing there.
Out of curiosity. I was looking at the Wood-Mizer catalog and the instructions say to mill opposite ends (top, bottom, then left, right) of the log. Did you find it easier to mill the logs just in a single rotational direction?
Avery Johnson Makes sense to make one cut. Reasonably flat surface. Turn bottom side down to flat bed. A bit of time reading instructions would save a mountain of time milling.
The sawmill should be equipped with a laser with targets every two or our feet to confirm level and trueness. The same way that they build odd shaped skyscrapers by shooting a laser vertically you can shoot it horizontally through apertures along its length. Wow beautiful lumber is being created!!!
Solid pad helped mine. Then all u have to worry about is the internal stress inside the logs that allow it to move as you are releasing . Every side u shave off lets some go in a different direction . Each one is small but , get a couple pushing or pulling the same way, it can multiply.
I agree, pour the pad. But, do it right by auger down 24" where ever there is a bolt adjustment on your frame. Then pour the pad with plenty of rebar and make the pad at least 5 1/2" thick.
Lisa don't put your leg inside of the see frame when releasing or rolling log , if it rolled on you the wrong way you couldn't get out of the way fast enough. Result at least a broken leg.
Bravo !..... to both of you. Awesome effort in thriving in the FreeWorld. As a sawyer...I have issues of safety,.. pls don't lift or move logs while someone is standing on that pile. OMG ...logs roll & crush trauma injuries suck. AÑD .,. We all need to have you both finish this timberframing job.
On long length's of anything, play with a very tightly pulled dry line using the twist and tighten knot, and with a builders level shoot the middle of the line pulled at 20 ft and see how much sag you've got and use that as a way to dial in your bed.
ya guys are doing very well so far, take the time too make the right cuts, as too the pad pour, go for it if you can, but do it where it will not later effect operations, or another projects..
my hats off to you guys i've been a carpenter for 20 years and i know how difficult building can be so keep up the good work my heart is with you guys
Thanks for the updates, we appreciate them. Thank the Lord for no serious injuries and good weather.
I'm sure it's been said before, but I just marvel at what can be produced by what nature provides. I'm enjoying watching you take raw lumber, and turning it into a finished product. I take it for granted when I go into a Home Depot or Lowes or Lumber Yard that I can just buy whatever I need. I never thought how much work goes into producing the finished products. Kudos to the two of you!!!!!
Love the milling footage, something oddly satisfying about watching those perfectly clean cuts and the fresh beam product.
Alyssa is one hardworking woman.Jesse you are a fortunate man.
Thank You for being able to continue with your video journey. They are even better - when one knows how they look all put together. Beautiful!
I love all your videos . I am a old sawmill man that has sawed many log home patterns and millions of feet of lumber If possible try to keep the heart of the tree as close as possible to the center of your beams it will make it a much better product with less warping also less cracking of your timbers. keep the videos coming.
I️ hope you two tell each other how much you appreciate the others’ hard work. When you’re going through a process like this, that is a great form of payment. Love the videos! This is great!
Not trying to be weird or anything Pure Living for Life , but I love you guys ❤️. It's nice to see a couple working so well together and speaking to each other respectfully. Building a home is hard work, especially learning to do it yourself. You guys are awesome. :-)
You are developing such a great base of knowledge and the skills that belong to a craftsman. Very impressive.
I know about the lag between the videos and real-life; but I remember Jessie talking about building a community around things like the sawmill. If it’s your desire to let others come by and use the mill, then it’s definitely in your best interest to pour a pad.
And a roof. :)
What you two are accomplishing is inspiring, to say the least. Wow.
I don't know if you guys will see this but just a hint. Save that sawdust. It's good compost. Also, if you're able, don't put the big booty end closer to the blade. Put the smaller end closer . It's less measuring that way. And I know you're pushing perfection, but after you get the hang of milling, don't sweat the rolling so much. Take your first cut and be confident in your decisions. You guys are awesome! Keep it up.
Set up your laser and use a story pole to level all your bed sections at the same time. You can’t use a 4 foot level to span 30 foot because of the slight variation in the level. You are doing great so use your level for what is was designed. Make sure all beds are loaded when checking level.
Hey Jesse - if you keep your movable blade guide closer to the beam, your accuracy will improve. A foot is too far - an inch is better! The band blade wants to wander up and down, especially when it’s getting dull. Keep an eye on it.
Thanks for helping me to see the beauty of lumber with different eyes. 👍
I'm sure these suggestions may come too late to be useful, but a gas powered leaf blower might be a time saver for blowing sawdust off the new cut beams and the mill rails. And the handle of that tool you use to roll the logs and beams on the mill looks like it could use an eight foot piece of 2 inch pipe as a cheater to slip over the end for more leverage on the really big beams. I'm glad you're back putting up videos. Hope the timber frame workshop went great.
I have to give it to them... They are some damn hard workers. Jessie's talking drives me crazy but they're accomplishing more than I could ever hope to do in my lifetime.
Shantel Best Jessie phrase I have heard so far „The plan changes because we have a plan“
WOW!!!! Y'all are some milling machines! Can't believe your progress. Great Vid, nice logs!!!
Congrats. Thanks for sharing your journey.
YOU TWO ARE AMAZING. THINGS GET MORE EXCITING EACH VIDEO.
I think you guys are amazing. You works so hard while many of us just sit and watch your story.
Hard work no matter how you go at it. Good Luck !
Alyssa, I know you don't read comments but in hopes of helping someone else heres
the result of 35 years experience setting up saw mill equipment.
3 tools used. An optical surveyers transit, a machinest level with .001" graduations,
and a piece of piano wire with a com a long to stretch the wire past yield. Just pull
the wire 3 inches longer for every hundred feet. The wire is supported on 3/4"
keystock at the extreme ends past your work zone. A third piece of the keystock
should graze the wire when slid under it at all reference points. Side to side measurements
such as the top of carrage track "V" rail measure to the side of the wire. Level on
track is with the optical transit. Laser levels are not usable for this work where an
optical transit easily reads 1/2 mm. With the carrage types the track is set first and the carrage knes ar shimmed up to the highest one. A traveling band is a little harder to
tune errors out of . Same proceedure though with leveling the track first if it is welded
to the bed sections and then use socket head screw (3/8 or 1/2") to mount
1/2 X 3 cold rolled flat stock on the bed tops which you can shim to the accuracy
of the transit. If the track is bolted on level the bed support crossmembers first and
if necessary add the 1/2 X 3" flatbar which can be shimmed at the ends and a few
points between where the screws are located. Then shim the track to the bed sections.
Steel shims are usually made from 3/4" wide banding material (.oo9") or 1-1/2"
banding material (.017"). First pass is to lay the shims on the track or bed
sectiond and read those before bolting them under the parts. Then read all the points
again and adjust with strips cut from aluminum beer cans (.002.5")
Also the equipment needs a concrete foundation for accuracy of level over
time and system mass to contain shock loadsof turning 1100 pound timbers.
You can not move the transit until completely finished.and the nice extruded
aluminum tripods change leg length as the sun moves during the day so set
the tripod wher one leg will not put another in a shadow
I think back in the early 80s I helped my friend build his post-beam home. The main timber was one piece 40 foot long and 15x15 inches. It was a beast that required 2 cranes to set. All mortise and tenons with serious nails and pegs. He still lives there and that monster is just fine.
Editing Skills are ON Point!!
That is some mighty fine looking timbers!!!
Your stunningly beautiful decking material is what the "By Product" of the milling is...! As well as finishing wood etc.... There is always a great use for such resources. Peace, Love and Light!
Yeay! Daily fix of vids from you guys is satisfied. Love seeing your progress (even in catchup). Hope everything is going really well. Stay warm, safe and happy guys.
Great video
Your desire to be accurate makes me smile. I live in an ex-council (local authority)house, which was thrown up in the 60s, no wall is flat and at right angles. complete laugh at decorating time.
LMAO the booty break out was hilarious!!! Wasn't expecting that!
Lol, a couple funnies in this one! Made me smile. Video editing is getting super awesome too! Great job guys. 😃
I noticed when you rolled the large log over the whole unit jumped and probably changed alignment. Your idea about a pad will be much better with some anchors installed to keep everything solid.
Huge logs! So nice to see the progress, now in videos!
I love sawmill work...
Are you boxing the hearts for the beams?
You can also sink Cables into the ground to hod the mill in place using duckbill anchors.
But really... only cut full length IF you need long timbers, once you have the beams you need and a few spares, start bucking the logs shorter.
As for the slabs & boards...
Put an air compressor on the saw mill so you can blow the saw dust away easily
I'm learning so much I don't plan to ever use! When I saw the whole bed slide as you turned the log I started thinking about your previous comment about using a laser level. I wonder if it's practical to setup reference lines on each bed section (and on both sides) and then checking with the laser before each cut. Depends whether you can adjust a bed section while loaded I suppose. You guys rock!
You guys are amazing your doing a great job . I can't wait to see the videos when you start putting the wood frame together well done
Also, cut and use stickers (I use 1x2s) between everything, especially your beams. The edges exposed to the air will shrink, warping the beam. Stickers will allow air on all sides, lessening the bending. Twisting too. FYI.
Dave
much respect to you guys . y'all are building and living your life dreams. ..
Perfection comes with trial & error. If you don't try you've end up with a whole lot of error. Perfection tastes sweet!
Hello You Two.Have been watching all of your videos ..keep up the great work .
I honestly can't tell if people are trying to help, or just being jerks. You guys are awesome! It's been so fun watching these vlogs, wish you nothing but the best!
keep up the good work. its amazing what you guys do
I was thinking that one of those gasoline powered leaf blowers would come in handy to clean the sawdust off of the mill and log after each cut. Those timbers look immaculate. Great job.
Use a water level to measure even small differences in elevation over a large distance. Cheap to make and very useful for shooting grade and building large structures. You could even do a video on it!
4:35 nice view on grain structure of the tree
You guys are doing a great job! I would definitely pour a slab and anchor the mill so it does not move but that is just my opinion having never used a saw mill before so take it with a grain of salt.
I've ran one of those sawmills before to build a small cabin and I would put the blade guide as close as possible to the wood to keep the saw blade from moving up and down as you saw !!! Just my 2 cents !!! Class A work, looking good !!!!
LOL @ that "booty" interlude. As always, you guys are rocking along and doing a great job! Thanks for sharing.
great job on the saw mill today guys !! i think pouring a concrete pad is the best idea
too late now. These videos are well behind real time.
3 videos in one day. Fanbloodytastic!
Looks like your starting to get your saw mill groove on! Nice work! Easy for me to say as I sit here at my keyboard! ;)
IDK, if it worth it or not, but if you have the problem with rotating beams(I know it too late, but I will write as if it is not :D) you could use the backhoe and the ribbon(do not know how the thing is called, that flat thow rope) you use to transport beam later, use that to rotate the beam.
attach it to the stem the same way as you do when transporting it from the sawmill, but add additional few turns around the stem or partially cut beam, and lift the ribbon with the backhoe bucket, it should have sufficient friction to turn the thing, in a pretty controlable manner.
Thats awesome guys... so jealous. LOL! I do want make a small suggestion, I know you mentioned you are going to anchor seal the ends but you should also sticker between the boards to allow air to move all around... just a suggestion. Keep up the great work and I can't wait to see the house come together.
In real time, the timber frame is done... the video's are 1 month behind. Look an instagram.
you guys rock
greetings from Serbia
Jesse, think about getting a cheesy electric leaf blower for sawdust cleaning. Probably cut your time on clean up down significantly
Concrete pad would make sense.. Another interesting video, thanks :)
You might could look into getting the battery powered DeWalt 20v leaf blower to blow the saw dust off the log before rotating it, it would save alot of time. We use it on the job site all the time, it is awesome and definitely worth the money, it's $99 I think for the bare tool.
Jake Carter damnit beat me to it
Trevor Berg lol sorry
Wow sick beam shot at the end though. Really impressive work and I hope to achieve something similar one day!
Some really beautiful wood there
As always thanks for sharing, stay safe though now your getting into heavy lifts. Always think what will happen if a tool/item of equipment breaks, so your not in a danger zone or at risk of harm.
Hi, great fun watching you build your house. Always looking for your next vidios.
It's tuff getting a light railway to stay where placed. If you have time you can set it on some heavy logs like railrode cross types except as big as you can get. Eight foot logs with flat spots cut on the top surface would work great. You could use crooked buts or whatever. Bury part in the ground to leval the top serfaces, pack the fill dirt so they're hard to move. Level your rail way on top then anker it to the tyes with all thread screwed into tight holes drilled into the tyes. You may have to adjust adjust it for leval and flat a few times till the sleepers settle but it will not be a constant fite.
Best of luck
Dan R
Re: the "calibration" of your saw mill. In case you haven't thought of this, heat will expand metal. One of the problems with band saws, is that when the temperature of the blade increases so does the total length of the blade. This usually results in a saw blade the will move up and down the cutting plane.
Now, this is just my theory but you could easily test for this by securing a thermal temperature probe and point it at the blade as it is leaving the timber. That probe will give you an indication of the internal temperature of the wood and blade. As you are milling, have Alyssa log the temperature every inch (maybe mark the log every inch as reference points) and after milling go back and compare the temperature to the height of the log at every inch. If you find any areas that are not the correct, make a note of what the temperature was. After you preform this process along the entire log, you should have enough data to easily determine a statistical significance of "at what temperature does the blade starts to walk?"
I would be very interested in your findings and would like to compare it against a circular saw mill.
When he turns the log. Could the log dropping back onto the mill be throwing it out of level ?
+ juggernautt888
He says virtually exactly that about 5:05 "there is no way to be super delicate we are jostling the bed"
kinda late to mention but it looks like the bed sections have stake pockets on the side? possible maybe to anchor it with stakes driven down into the ground at those points to keep it from moving side to side and front to back?
You guys are just flying through those logs. Good on ya. Man Our Ridge Beam is 12x18 Doug Fir. Crazy how different the rules are depending one where you are. Over all our Ridge is 53 Feet long. It will have a scarf joint in the middle when Jessica and I are brave enough to tackle the joinery on it. The one 27 foot long piece is over 1200 lbs...
I agree 100%. Although I would probably not sell them but store the extra for future projects. I put off ordering the logs for so long because I was not sure HOW or WHAT I needed. After spending a couple hours with the plans and realizing how little it cost to order Eastern White Pine locally I would have just ordered double and used the extra in barns, Jessica's dog school and other projects.
I hope you use those extras to make a sweet, super long, farm-style table. That would be a sweet video.
Mighty good looking lumber and beams.
Boy warm weather for Nov. HaHa I know this was way back when, thanks for letting us watch
You guys are such an inspiration for me and my family. I can’t wait to see your new videos each day. Great content. Keep it up!! Where are you guys located? I’m sure you’ve said I must have missed it.
a concrete pad for the mill would be great, but...is there time? then again...how much time might it save if you don't have to readjust the mill frequently? your call. love the milling videos!
I really think that you need to look at your tolerances and say that 1/4 " over 25 ft is acceptable. Of course I know you're down all your milling now, but hey, what else can I comment on :) . Aside from maybe trying lift timbers with the front end of the loader.
I agree 100% that is way to tight a tolerance for a span that length, we are dealing with wood here, it is going to move more that 1/4" within the next month or so, you have unrealistic goals, do let perfect come in the way of good. You could spend much more time worrying about other more important things that you do have control over. LIke I said the building is going to move, so all your work is almost imeasurable in the context of what you are trying to do, get the building up.
I have been in the building business for 40 years and was a building inspector.
Steve
From what I have seen so far this mill is such a pain in the ass its unreal I know for a fact I will be buying a Lucas Mill once I get there 2 sides in one go is just one of the many advantages
+bametje Don't try to mill long or thick beams with a Lucas. ;) There's no perfect mill. Accuracy takes patience.
Why not just buy more bed sections and mill full-length beams? You can always sell the extra bed sections when you're done.
Pouring a pad is a smart idea. When you no longer need it for the mill, have someone with a concrete saw slice it up and use the pieces for a walkway.
I feel your pain with the logs. We built our house and used some logs we had milled for our land and a friends`. We started back in `85 to build the house. Years later we milled out logs for our big building. Hubby had no tractor till after the large structures were built, then he was cutting logs for the different mills. It was too much for us to have a mill in the yard so we had someone come in with the WoodMizer that I knew from school. His son now runs the mill. No bank money for us we paid as we went along. Saved a lot of headache for us just to have a pro with a saw, we provided the extra labour. We cleared 7 pines from the side of the house so that if they ever got damaged they would not fall on the house. We had to use block and tackle to take them down so they would not hit our roof and chimney. Hubby cut with the saw and the neighbour and I pulled the trees. When milled we had almost enough lumber to frame and cover the large building, it had a hip roof. We had corn whisks in our back pockets to clean the lumber and mill at all times. The few pieces that were not even were run through a plainer, now that made a difference. If we had to purchase all our lumber we might as well had given up without even beginning our build. Hats off to you both for what you are doing.
That 8"x 12"... Couldn't buy THAT at the local Home Depot!
All your timber so far looks beautiful!
15:39 ..... Aww yeah!
Get a tarp for your lumber pile. The sun will warp the beams, not to mention rain.
Good job guys, you did it. Couple of things, not criticizing but for future reference. Timber framing requires that your heartwood is centered in the beam. This is to keep checks from going all the way through your timbers as they dry and gives you the most stable timber possible. The other thing to make life easier is to mill from the narrow end of the log as well as laying out the timber before cutting with a level. Bebark and you will triple the life of the blade.
I have several videos in my timber framing vlog on this stuff so I don't need to go too deep into it, the information is there.
Nobody is perfect and I'm sure you two learned some good lessons on the dos and don'ts of sawmilling. It gets easier as you go and you will improve. Good work and keep learning, don't be too proud to look around at what others have done. Have a good one you two and I bet you're happy to have a house standing there.
Let the experienced experts work the sawmills....
Out of curiosity. I was looking at the Wood-Mizer catalog and the instructions say to mill opposite ends (top, bottom, then left, right) of the log. Did you find it easier to mill the logs just in a single rotational direction?
Avery Johnson Makes sense to make one cut. Reasonably flat surface. Turn bottom side down to flat bed. A bit of time reading instructions would save a mountain of time milling.
The sawmill should be equipped with a laser with targets every two or our feet to confirm level and trueness. The same way that they build odd shaped skyscrapers by shooting a laser vertically you can shoot it horizontally through apertures along its length.
Wow beautiful lumber is being created!!!
As you cut lumber. Use excel to create a self subtracting plan to keep track of pre planed lumber needed for the build
Hi Jessie and Alyssa Do the concrete slab, once done you can level the mill bed and fix it in place
Looks like its coming along pretty good...
are you thinking of using some of your extra 1x and 2x and mill it for a live edge siding?
He guys, save your comments. Jesse said in a long ago previous video that he doesn't read TH-cam comments. He only reads comments on Facebook.
You guys are really talking a beating from all the TH-cam experts! I hope you have thick skin and you earn enough to make it worthwhile. Blessings
You will do it! Thanks for sharing.
Solid pad helped mine. Then all u have to worry about is the internal stress inside the logs that allow it to move as you are releasing . Every side u shave off lets some go in a different direction . Each one is small but , get a couple pushing or pulling the same way, it can multiply.
I agree, pour the pad. But, do it right by auger down 24" where ever there is a bolt adjustment on your frame. Then pour the pad with plenty of rebar and make the pad at least 5 1/2" thick.
“Booty booty booty rocking everywhere” hahahahaha gold.
Lisa don't put your leg inside of the see frame when releasing or rolling log , if it rolled on you the wrong way you couldn't get out of the way fast enough. Result at least a broken leg.
Bravo !..... to both of you. Awesome effort in thriving in the FreeWorld. As a sawyer...I have issues of safety,.. pls don't lift or move logs while someone is standing on that pile. OMG ...logs roll & crush trauma injuries suck. AÑD .,. We all need to have you both finish this timberframing job.
Kenneth Kustren wish they read comments
Do you have a leaf blower? Might work well to keep sawdust at bay.
On long length's of anything, play with a very tightly pulled dry line using the twist and tighten knot, and with a builders level shoot the middle of the line pulled at 20 ft and see how much sag you've got and use that as a way to dial in your bed.
ya guys are doing very well so far, take the time too make the right cuts, as too the pad pour, go for it if you can, but do it where it will not later effect operations, or another projects..
are you going to scrap lumber to build cabinets or countertop
men your a trooper. i see were back is hurting you bad,,,,,, i just hope you can get some after your A team was there
Should lay down and have Bugaboo give a walking backrub
seems like a leaf blower might be helpful