Also, to anyone local to the Toronto area...tomorrow (August 18th) I will be at the OMVA Military Vehicle show in the Odessa/Kingston area. Maybe I'll see some of you guys there!
As someone wanting to branch out from painting with mainly GW and Army painter acrilic stuff your videos have been some of the best on TH-cam for showing exactly what you do, how and why.
Very useful technique Evan. Oils have been a staple in my painting for years now and probably always will be. I find the versatility and effects you can achieve are second to none. Great little tutorial man!
HI Scott !! I'm exactly the same loved oils but sometimes struggled. Ev's videos have always always helped and some other chaps too !! Tell you what I bought and it helped so much Abteilungs book on working with oils. It was £24.99 over here which some will moan about but like me and you have spoke before , once you have a book if you look after it you have it for life. Excellent book and teaches so much . If you struggle get one let me know I'll get you one and send it you over . Hole your well brother. Sorry Ev for having a chat on your comments
Excellent tutorial video! Keep up the good work. I do a lot with oil pain't weathering on my models, but a learned something today. Thanks for sharing.
Excellent demonstration, thanks. That's a beautiful effect - I shall give it a go. I'm a year and a half back into the hobby after a twenty-plus year lay off and I've got quite a back log of techniques I want to try out - and every week, somebody on You tube shows me another one! It's a great time to be modeling! Cheers.
It is a fun tank! I love weird little light tanks like this...they're always so cool and have weird things like offset turrets, lots of bolts, weird drive systems...
Great timing,just painted rfm sherman olive drab with rough whitewash.W&N are good but..when they dry they change coloUr.I had achieved a great deep red rust on my Dicker Max rear axle mounts,they dried almost purple.The mkIII blue looks pukka.Cheers for vid.
Darron, I haven't had that happen in my experience, though I don't usually use rust colours so I probably have been using lighter colours. I will keep that in mind though, thank you!
The lamp i was using might have had some part in it.Please check out ROCHM MODELS.They focus on WW2 German medium/heavy tanks,and research individual tanks,by commander and specific tank.The effort and results scream dedication.Its on a scale of comparison with tamiya to dragon.RFM sherman E8,is lovely build,like a hybrid of Tasca and dragon,with crisper detail.Nightshift is bloody good,cheers for link.
Thanks for this great demonstration ... i love this technic and im still improving my skills on this ... my most concerns with this kind of color modulation is that sometimes i´m loosing the color tone i´m looking for ... but this means probably i need just more praxis ... by the way ... i love your tutorials ... many thanks Mr.Panzermeister ... cheers make*
Nothing to it. You paint model in very light coat, You give oil wash, you give wet dry brush in original colour. With large brush. It's done! If you have the eye, it will look great. Great to add mixed herbs to certain spots of model. Looks very real.
Thanks for the video. I wondered how to do that technique. I've got an old monogram p-47 with raised panel lines I may try this with to help give more definition beside what I airbrushed on.
Aside from the outstanding weathering tutorial, my favourite part wasn't even in the video.... "Yes, I spelled it "colour" not "color".... I almost fell off my chair bahahaha! Canadian Proud my man! Cheers!
Great video, nice demonstration showing the versatility of oils for color modulation and a start to the grimy weathering process. May I ask what inspired the white wash pattern? I don't mean the messy application/hairspray chipping. But why the rear of the vehicle has apparently been left completely untouched. Some reference photos or just a stylistic choice? I think it provides you with a great opportunity to showcase the different techniques in your demos and how those techniques work with or without various finishes.
@@Panzermeister36 thanks for the reply! I figured as much seeing your various reference group interactions on Facebook, just hadn't seen the T-70 photo in question. Looking forward to more!
Great vid! Good to see your still going strong, you and the German dude Hamilkar. What happened to Coen C? I loved his videos, when he was building Dragon Tigers and giving out about Tamiya. He lost his bite when he started building crappy oul Sherman's.
I was looking at experimenting with this on a MkIV, but also wanted to try dot filters to make the paintwork more interesting. Is it one or the other, or I guess they achieve similar things in you include different hues of base colours in with the oil dots. Does that sound right to you? Your videos are fantastic, have picked up so many new techniques and additions to try for myself. Love how you explain everything, especially the bits that always confuse me on other vids (what brush? How much thinner? How do avoid that? How do you blend that? etc etc). Superb.
You should be able to layer a bunch of effects without issue. Usually I let them dry for a day or two before proceeding, but you can also apply a varnish for extra protection against reactivating the previous effects.
Another beautifully done tutorial for us less mere mortals !!! Fantastic again my friend. I hope college has gone OK and your working is going well my dear friend ? If you need anything you know where I am. Stay safe my friend
Thank you Steve! Oh I just a mere mortal too :) Yes I am working now for a full year as part of my aerospace engineering degree. Around a year from now I will be going back for the last year of my degree. But for now I get to work on some real airplanes and make some money which is great!
Hey quick question. Were your Wilder oils pretty solid like that right out of the tube on day 1? I just popped the tin foil seal on a few I got recently and they were very, very runny. A good bit of linseed oil came out right away (dripped out without squeezing) and the paint that came after (again, hardly even squeezed the tube) was almost like a wash consistency. I'm letting the linseed oil soak out on a piece of cardboard for now. But was just wondering if you experienced something similar as my Windsor Newton have never acted like that. Used to a much thicker, "chocolate mousse" kind of consistency.
Panzer grey: th-cam.com/video/zTIzUSP0WMU/w-d-xo.html Dark Yellow (older video): th-cam.com/video/uV26I1WQ01U/w-d-xo.html In this video I also show it on Dark Yellow. It's a more recent and better video: th-cam.com/video/D5uzJULC62w/w-d-xo.html
Thank you for this tutorial. I was doing this yesterday for the first time, and messed it up xD Edit: Try out some good quality oil paint (their top tier series of what ever company you have local), it is a day and night difference between Model- / Hobbypaint and fine art supplies.
Well that is a matter of opinion. I have seen some really good and also really bad examples of colour modulated models. Once I apply the dust effects and speckling, the colour modulation is more subtle than you see here. It adds some nice highlights to the tank to compliment the shadows of the pinwash we already applied. And also, since I did this with oil paints, I can remove it if I feel like it has too much contrast after application.
I just let them dry for like 2 days. I then started some more oil work for the dust, then sealed it all with matte. How I will start some more pigments and mud effects. This will all be covered in the next video on this tank.
In one of the previous videos in the series on this tank, I applied a satin varnish after the base painting application. Then I applied the oil pinwash, and then I applied this. So there was no varnish between each weathering stage, just a satin varnish at the very beginning of weathering.
+Sammy Seguin well there was a clear semi gloss varnish applied before the pinwash. That was covered in one of the previous videos on this tank. But there was no varnish after the previous effects.
![CAMPปลิ้น | รวม Highlight 2024! PART [1/2]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/6hnvNnvYloU/mqdefault.jpg)
Also, to anyone local to the Toronto area...tomorrow (August 18th) I will be at the OMVA Military Vehicle show in the Odessa/Kingston area. Maybe I'll see some of you guys there!
As someone wanting to branch out from painting with mainly GW and Army painter acrilic stuff your videos have been some of the best on TH-cam for showing exactly what you do, how and why.
Very well done and nothing exaggerated. Lately I have seen some modelers who oxidize more than snow and rain.
Very useful technique Evan. Oils have been a staple in my painting for years now and probably always will be. I find the versatility and effects you can achieve are second to none. Great little tutorial man!
HI Scott !! I'm exactly the same loved oils but sometimes struggled. Ev's videos have always always helped and some other chaps too !! Tell you what I bought and it helped so much Abteilungs book on working with oils. It was £24.99 over here which some will moan about but like me and you have spoke before , once you have a book if you look after it you have it for life. Excellent book and teaches so much . If you struggle get one let me know I'll get you one and send it you over . Hole your well brother. Sorry Ev for having a chat on your comments
@@MottysMilitaryModels Absolutely Steve!
Thank you for sharing your skills Evan; They are very helpful for those who have not yet dared to use this technique.
Great effect, and you make it look so easy!
It is really easy though :)
So easy but so realistic looking, have a like.
Excellent tutorial video! Keep up the good work. I do a lot with oil pain't weathering on my models, but a learned something today. Thanks for sharing.
Wow, terrific technique and demo. Thanks!
Excellent demonstration, thanks. That's a beautiful effect - I shall give it a go. I'm a year and a half back into the hobby after a twenty-plus year lay off and I've got quite a back log of techniques I want to try out - and every week, somebody on You tube shows me another one! It's a great time to be modeling! Cheers.
Excellent technique, airbrush or not! Well done 👍
Thank you so much for making this video i was looking for this kind of tutorial for ages
Really great tutorial. For some reason i need an adorable T-40 on my shelf now too.
It is a fun tank! I love weird little light tanks like this...they're always so cool and have weird things like offset turrets, lots of bolts, weird drive systems...
Great timing,just painted rfm sherman olive drab with rough whitewash.W&N are good but..when they dry they change coloUr.I had achieved a great deep red rust on my Dicker Max rear axle mounts,they dried almost purple.The mkIII blue looks pukka.Cheers for vid.
Darron, I haven't had that happen in my experience, though I don't usually use rust colours so I probably have been using lighter colours. I will keep that in mind though, thank you!
The lamp i was using might have had some part in it.Please check out ROCHM MODELS.They focus on WW2 German medium/heavy tanks,and research individual tanks,by commander and specific tank.The effort and results scream dedication.Its on a scale of comparison with tamiya to dragon.RFM sherman E8,is lovely build,like a hybrid of Tasca and dragon,with crisper detail.Nightshift is bloody good,cheers for link.
Great tip panzermeister!
Really effective technique. O really need to try that rather than relying on pre shading. Thanks Evan
Brilliant finishes
Thank you!
Great demo!
Thank you!
Thanks for this great demonstration ... i love this technic and im still improving my skills on this ... my most concerns with this kind of color modulation is that sometimes i´m loosing the color tone i´m looking for ... but this means probably i need just more praxis ... by the way ... i love your tutorials ... many thanks Mr.Panzermeister ... cheers make*
Nothing to it. You paint model in very light coat, You give oil wash, you give wet dry brush in original colour. With large brush. It's done! If you have the eye, it will look great. Great to add mixed herbs to certain spots of model. Looks very real.
AWESOME.
Great technique, looks so real...and superb!👍
Thanks for the video. I wondered how to do that technique. I've got an old monogram p-47 with raised panel lines I may try this with to help give more definition beside what I airbrushed on.
Aside from the outstanding weathering tutorial, my favourite part wasn't even in the video.... "Yes, I spelled it "colour" not "color".... I almost fell off my chair bahahaha! Canadian Proud my man!
Cheers!
Work of Art! Cheers
Nice video, I wouldn't even think that you can do this type of weathering without an airbrush. Keep on :)
Thanks for this little Tutorial, this is very helpfull.✌
Great video. That stug looks amazing.
Great video, nice demonstration showing the versatility of oils for color modulation and a start to the grimy weathering process. May I ask what inspired the white wash pattern? I don't mean the messy application/hairspray chipping. But why the rear of the vehicle has apparently been left completely untouched. Some reference photos or just a stylistic choice? I think it provides you with a great opportunity to showcase the different techniques in your demos and how those techniques work with or without various finishes.
+Braille Scale thank you! I have a reference photo of a T-70 light tank with a similar camouflage. That has been my reference for most of this.
@@Panzermeister36 thanks for the reply! I figured as much seeing your various reference group interactions on Facebook, just hadn't seen the T-70 photo in question. Looking forward to more!
Oil paint really supprised me. They are very easy to use. I mean extremely easy. Try it and you will addict to it! ❤
Oh yeah, btw... colour is the right way to spell it. :)
😂😂👍
Sorry, all my American friends... but it's true. 😉
😂
Easy, effective and well explained, love it :)
Great vid! Good to see your still going strong, you and the German dude Hamilkar. What happened to Coen C? I loved his videos, when he was building Dragon Tigers and giving out about Tamiya. He lost his bite when he started building crappy oul Sherman's.
Maybe thats why he closed his channel .... because of people who had overbearing opinions on his work.
I was looking at experimenting with this on a MkIV, but also wanted to try dot filters to make the paintwork more interesting. Is it one or the other, or I guess they achieve similar things in you include different hues of base colours in with the oil dots. Does that sound right to you?
Your videos are fantastic, have picked up so many new techniques and additions to try for myself. Love how you explain everything, especially the bits that always confuse me on other vids (what brush? How much thinner? How do avoid that? How do you blend that? etc etc). Superb.
You should be able to layer a bunch of effects without issue. Usually I let them dry for a day or two before proceeding, but you can also apply a varnish for extra protection against reactivating the previous effects.
Panzermeister36 Thankyou :)
Nice tutorial, sounds like new mic.
Thank you. Actually, the same mic I've been using for a year or so now, but I was recording in a different room.
Another beautifully done tutorial for us less mere mortals !!! Fantastic again my friend. I hope college has gone OK and your working is going well my dear friend ? If you need anything you know where I am. Stay safe my friend
Thank you Steve! Oh I just a mere mortal too :) Yes I am working now for a full year as part of my aerospace engineering degree. Around a year from now I will be going back for the last year of my degree. But for now I get to work on some real airplanes and make some money which is great!
Hi - At about 3.15 you start to add a "darker green". Can you tell me what that colour is please ?
Hi, nice Video good tips, can you tell me what kit this is? Manufacture? Kit? Thx.
+Fabian S. It is a Hobbyboss T-40 light tank. I think it is a "late production" variant.
Hey quick question. Were your Wilder oils pretty solid like that right out of the tube on day 1? I just popped the tin foil seal on a few I got recently and they were very, very runny. A good bit of linseed oil came out right away (dripped out without squeezing) and the paint that came after (again, hardly even squeezed the tube) was almost like a wash consistency. I'm letting the linseed oil soak out on a piece of cardboard for now. But was just wondering if you experienced something similar as my Windsor Newton have never acted like that. Used to a much thicker, "chocolate mousse" kind of consistency.
Very good! Can I ask you? Are you use oil paints on matt or gloss varnish? What kind of colors will be good for panzer grey and dunkelgelb?
+Дмитрий Воронец I usually use semi-gloss varnish (or satin varnish which is similar). I have other videos showing this on grey and yellow tanks too.
@@Panzermeister36 thank you! Can you give me links?
Panzer grey: th-cam.com/video/zTIzUSP0WMU/w-d-xo.html Dark Yellow (older video): th-cam.com/video/uV26I1WQ01U/w-d-xo.html In this video I also show it on Dark Yellow. It's a more recent and better video: th-cam.com/video/D5uzJULC62w/w-d-xo.html
Thank you for this tutorial. I was doing this yesterday for the first time, and messed it up xD Edit: Try out some good quality oil paint (their top tier series of what ever company you have local), it is a day and night difference between Model- / Hobbypaint and fine art supplies.
How realistic is this? Beceuse I like going with realistic look over detailed or contest weathering
Well that is a matter of opinion. I have seen some really good and also really bad examples of colour modulated models.
Once I apply the dust effects and speckling, the colour modulation is more subtle than you see here. It adds some nice highlights to the tank to compliment the shadows of the pinwash we already applied. And also, since I did this with oil paints, I can remove it if I feel like it has too much contrast after application.
@@Panzermeister36 ok, thanks for the answer. I'm going to test it on a new tank i just airbrushed with some oil paints I can get here in Sweden.
Excellent artistry! How long do you let the oils dry before clear coating/sealing?
I just let them dry for like 2 days. I then started some more oil work for the dust, then sealed it all with matte. How I will start some more pigments and mud effects. This will all be covered in the next video on this tank.
should I do this b4 weathering or after weathering?
Well it is kind of part of the weathering isn't it? :)
@@Panzermeister36 you're right!!!
Hey Evan, is this a method you still use now in the wild west of 2022? I'm thinking of trying it out.
Yes I still am! Once I get back to making some videos I will show this again. Busy moving to a new place as we speak...
@@Panzermeister36 good luck with the move!
Was this done directly on the model after painting or was a Matt clear applied. Thanks
In one of the previous videos in the series on this tank, I applied a satin varnish after the base painting application. Then I applied the oil pinwash, and then I applied this. So there was no varnish between each weathering stage, just a satin varnish at the very beginning of weathering.
Nice vid; looks really easy will give this a go. Thanks.
And you could have just said that you spelt colour correctly... ;)
So just to be clear, you painted the model in acrylics, no clear coat, then weathered with undiluted artist oils.
+Sammy Seguin well there was a clear semi gloss varnish applied before the pinwash. That was covered in one of the previous videos on this tank. But there was no varnish after the previous effects.
@@Panzermeister36 all right, I will have to go back and review the other videos. Thanks. Great tips BTW.
👍🏼👍🏼
That is the correct way to spell "colour"