Its the same system as my webley raider, barrel and transferport in the block were 4,5 mm, so I had only to drill out the valve house. Tanks very much for this film, it helped to do ik by myself. From 27 joules to almost 42 joules, perfect.
Not just a power tune video but a detailed strip down guide too. Much appreciated my friend helped a lot with my Mastiff tune up . A Big Thumbs up from me.
Fantastic video mate. Really appreciate the time and effort you put into this. The next best thing you can do is install a huma reg and set it between 120 and 150 bar for better consistency. Cheers from England.
arnoldtm31 Huma reg already installed and set to 135bar and installed a new 60cm lothar Walter barrel. Pretty accurate with the Piledriver slugs producing about 58joules now. Thanks for your comment. Cheers from the Netherlands
Patrick super thanks to you for this great video. Indeed there’s almost no info on this gun, so an huge thanks to you for sharing your knowledge in the way you did. I feel confident now to take apart mine for maintenance and maybe also to power up the joules a bit if I want to in the future!!
Jopipopi ik heb in de tussentijd een Huma regulator geïnstalleerd en een 60cm lange Lothar Walther loop op de draaibank passend gemaakt. Hij schiet ondertussen c.a. 58joules met de 30grain Piledrivers en ongeveer 24 gereguleerde schoten
Fantastic in depth video thanks. Can the hammer spring not be tuned on these? I need to stay under 12ft lbs but it’s currently at 10! I just want that little bit more. I’ve only got it a few days ago so not had time to strip and look myself Thanks Martin
To increase hammer spring tension, you have to unscrew the trigger hinge fork which is screwed on to the action block right under the hammer spring adjustment plug, then deep inside that screw hole you will find a non removable screw that pinches the hammer spring adjustment plug. You will have to drill this one out to free up the adjustment plug, then you can tension the hammer spring. Hope this helps.
Patrick van der Heijden thanks Patrick, wow that seems a lot to do for a couple of ft lbs😟 I can’t believe they can not be set correctly at 11.5 if they are for the U.K. market. Rfd’s just day that 10 is acceptable as it’s within 2lbs of the target, but it’s not acceptable to be 2lbs over 😳 I’m going to take it back and say I don’t want it if they can’t sort it out. Wish me luck 😉👍
That barrel transfer port is very close to one of the o rings. They should have made it more central to allow safer drilling. You could easily fit a different barrel to solve this.
wh77 dank je, vindt het verschrikkelijk om mijzelf te horen in een video, maar er is zo weinig bekend over de Mastiff dat ik maar besloten heb om mijn verschrikkelijke stem voor lief te nemen 😉. Tot nu toe heb ik tot 75m geschoten met een groepje van c.a. 4,5cm met de H&N Baracuda power, maar deze zijn zeker niet de beste pellets, dus ben nog aan het experimenteren met andere. Hoop dat de Piledrivr slugs wat groeperen op 100m, maar heb eerst een nieuw doosje nodig voor ik die kan testen
Hoi William, Ja, hij is precies het zelfde. Webley heeft simpelweg zijn eigen naam staan op een Kral dus alles is exact hetzelfde met uitzondering van de power knop die de Kral wel heeft en de Webley daarin tegen een vaste transfer poort gebruikt. Suc6
This may sound daft but what's the best and safest way to release the air from the resivour b4 working on the gun I'm planning one following this video and doing the same to my puncher jumbo in. .22
Next to the valve body there is a brass hex screw which houses the burst disk, you can un-tighten this hex screw just a little bit (Quarter of a turn is enough) to bleed the air, after you are done, tighten again just enough to seal the cylinder.
I followed this to the letter drilled out to 2.5mm from about 1.8mm no burrs reassembled and now the stem assembly won't seal against the valve body it just leaks from the transfer port? any ideas? I thought maybe the pressure plate on valve stem may have been damaged but I've checked again and it's fine 😶
Are you sure you did not damage the hard rubber seal on the valvestem? And have enough pressure on the valvestem seal by means of the spring compression? Maybe you have increased the hammer spring tension to hard/stiff that it compresses the valvestem?
all sorted thanks Patrick, the new upgraded valve stem seemed to fix it, I haven't touched the hammer spring because it has the anti tamper screw,it's very consistent fairplay starting to really like it now. thanks again for the great vid 😊
@@lyndoncook4508 if I may ask mate what was the increase with the 2.5mm drill out, thinking of doing the same due to 10ft lbs standard performance, looking to increase it a bit!
Yes I worked that out, now I'm stuck at the pellet probe, the large screw at the end will not budge seems to have a pin holding it, there is a spring on the probe but can not find a way in.
@@birderdavid1 as far as I know that flat head screw is not secured by a pin of some sort. Mine was pretty thight as wel, but it might be that they have locktited it as a form of anti tamper. Try to apply some Heat And try again
@@birderdavid1 ok, that is An anti tamper pin then. You can remove that trigger hinge though, maybe you can access that pin from under the trigger hinge?
most likely secured with locktite, ensure you completely purged all air from the cylinder and apply some heat to the end of the cylinder where the valve meets
Yes no problem. Start by taking the action out of the stock. Detach the trigger shoe and loosen the action bolt underneath the handgrip. Now you can seperate action from the stock. On the left hand side of the action remove the small flat head screw out of the sliding hammer. Now at the rear of the action, unscrew the large flat headed nut which retain the hammer and hammer spring. Then on top at the rear of the action remove the flat head screw, now your cocking lever is loosened. Next, remove the small flat head screw which still holds the cocking lever to the pellet probe hinge. After all that, you can remove the probe which is than slid connected to the guide Rod. Hope this helps.
Nice video... take the gun to a RFD shop.... and U are looking a 70 ta 100 quid... for a seal replacement.... to fix a air leak...a REPOFF...what 45 ta 50 minutes ... 1 hour max...to fix ...a spanner man all me life...i no the poor old joe soap is been ripped off....😢...by the seals DIY job....but then again putting pellets in to the magazine big job for some...i did alot of shooting with air rifles in the UK ..i no how to strip a gun and put it back together.... again.... helo from IRELAND.... stay safe...
Brilliant video Patrick well done .
Its the same system as my webley raider, barrel and transferport in the block were 4,5 mm, so I had only to drill out the valve house. Tanks very much for this film, it helped to do ik by myself. From 27 joules to almost 42 joules, perfect.
Not just a power tune video but a detailed strip down guide too. Much appreciated my friend helped a lot with my Mastiff tune up . A Big Thumbs up from me.
thanks Steve, much appreciated
Fantastic video mate. Really appreciate the time and effort you put into this. The next best thing you can do is install a huma reg and set it between 120 and 150 bar for better consistency. Cheers from England.
arnoldtm31 Huma reg already installed and set to 135bar and installed a new 60cm lothar Walter barrel. Pretty accurate with the Piledriver slugs producing about 58joules now. Thanks for your comment. Cheers from the Netherlands
Patrick super thanks to you for this great video. Indeed there’s almost no info on this gun, so an huge thanks to you for sharing your knowledge in the way you did. I feel confident now to take apart mine for maintenance and maybe also to power up the joules a bit if I want to in the future!!
Jopipopi thanks for your support, glad to be of help
Heb je nog andere aanpassingen gedaan. Zie dat er ook een regulator te koop is die in de lucht buis geschoven kan worden?!
Jopipopi ik heb in de tussentijd een Huma regulator geïnstalleerd en een 60cm lange Lothar Walther loop op de draaibank passend gemaakt. Hij schiet ondertussen c.a. 58joules met de 30grain Piledrivers en ongeveer 24 gereguleerde schoten
I wasn't paying attention can you do that again?
That really was very well done... I learned a lot... thank you.
Great video..how did you depressurise the cylinder?
turned the Hex screw which seals the burst-disk a quarter turn
Nice go at it
Fantastic in depth video thanks. Can the hammer spring not be tuned on these? I need to stay under 12ft lbs but it’s currently at 10! I just want that little bit more. I’ve only got it a few days ago so not had time to strip and look myself
Thanks Martin
To increase hammer spring tension, you have to unscrew the trigger hinge fork which is screwed on to the action block right under the hammer spring adjustment plug, then deep inside that screw hole you will find a non removable screw that pinches the hammer spring adjustment plug. You will have to drill this one out to free up the adjustment plug, then you can tension the hammer spring.
Hope this helps.
Patrick van der Heijden thanks Patrick, wow that seems a lot to do for a couple of ft lbs😟 I can’t believe they can not be set correctly at 11.5 if they are for the U.K. market. Rfd’s just day that 10 is acceptable as it’s within 2lbs of the target, but it’s not acceptable to be 2lbs over 😳
I’m going to take it back and say I don’t want it if they can’t sort it out. Wish me luck 😉👍
mine is 9.78ftlbs not acceptable when it's marketed as a full power hunter
That barrel transfer port is very close to one of the o rings. They should have made it more central to allow safer drilling. You could easily fit a different barrel to solve this.
Leuke video Patrick. 👍
Tot welke afstand schiet de mastiff nog leuke groepjes?
wh77 dank je, vindt het verschrikkelijk om mijzelf te horen in een video, maar er is zo weinig bekend over de Mastiff dat ik maar besloten heb om mijn verschrikkelijke stem voor lief te nemen 😉. Tot nu toe heb ik tot 75m geschoten met een groepje van c.a. 4,5cm met de H&N Baracuda power, maar deze zijn zeker niet de beste pellets, dus ben nog aan het experimenteren met andere. Hoop dat de Piledrivr slugs wat groeperen op 100m, maar heb eerst een nieuw doosje nodig voor ik die kan testen
wh77 dank je voor de complimenten. Heb een tijdje in Wales gewoond, maar woon nu in Friesland
Do you know where I can buy a barrel for mine in the UK?
The only one I know that is UK based is www.airgunspares.com
@@vwgoco thanks il give them a try
Hallo Patrick.
Is deze power tune ook mogelijk met de Kral Puncher breaker bulpup? Omdat de Mastiff erg veel op de Kral PB lijkt.
BVD
Hoi William, Ja, hij is precies het zelfde. Webley heeft simpelweg zijn eigen naam staan op een Kral dus alles is exact hetzelfde met uitzondering van de power knop die de Kral wel heeft en de Webley daarin tegen een vaste transfer poort gebruikt. Suc6
@@vwgoco Nog 1 vraag; Hoe laat je de luchtcilinder leeglopen?
B.vd.
@@williamp6723 ik doe het via de 'burst disk' poort, schroefje een half slag draaien en uit laten sissen
@@vwgoco Dank je wel!👍
This may sound daft but what's the best and safest way to release the air from the resivour b4 working on the gun I'm planning one following this video and doing the same to my puncher jumbo in. .22
Next to the valve body there is a brass hex screw which houses the burst disk, you can un-tighten this hex screw just a little bit (Quarter of a turn is enough) to bleed the air, after you are done, tighten again just enough to seal the cylinder.
Awesome thank you been a bit worried about the whole air thing happy drilling not the air bit lol
I followed this to the letter drilled out to 2.5mm from about 1.8mm no burrs reassembled and now the stem assembly won't seal against the valve body it just leaks from the transfer port? any ideas? I thought maybe the pressure plate on valve stem may have been damaged but I've checked again and it's fine 😶
Are you sure you did not damage the hard rubber seal on the valvestem? And have enough pressure on the valvestem seal by means of the spring compression? Maybe you have increased the hammer spring tension to hard/stiff that it compresses the valvestem?
all sorted thanks Patrick, the new upgraded valve stem seemed to fix it, I haven't touched the hammer spring because it has the anti tamper screw,it's very consistent fairplay starting to really like it now. thanks again for the great vid 😊
@@lyndoncook4508 if I may ask mate what was the increase with the 2.5mm drill out, thinking of doing the same due to 10ft lbs standard performance, looking to increase it a bit!
Hi man great video what size Alan key did you use for the stock bolt?
I used a 6mm alan key, but have noticed some guns use 5mm and even star bits, so don't quote me on that 😉
@@vwgoco cheers mate!
Hi again Patrick I'm afraid I've got no further than trying to removing the stock my one doesn't seem to have a straight forward bolt
Possibly the Brass insert at the Bottom of the stock prevents you to access the Hex bolt
Yes I worked that out, now I'm stuck at the pellet probe, the large screw at the end will not budge seems to have a pin holding it, there is a spring on the probe but can not find a way in.
@@birderdavid1 as far as I know that flat head screw is not secured by a pin of some sort. Mine was pretty thight as wel, but it might be that they have locktited it as a form of anti tamper. Try to apply some Heat And try again
@@vwgoco there is a pin that leads up from the 5mm trigger nut, the trigger nut and the rod needs to be free I think
@@birderdavid1 ok, that is An anti tamper pin then. You can remove that trigger hinge though, maybe you can access that pin from under the trigger hinge?
Cannot get the valve stem open with a 13mm spanner it simply won't budge. I've tried it all... any tips ?
most likely secured with locktite, ensure you completely purged all air from the cylinder and apply some heat to the end of the cylinder where the valve meets
Hi Patrick looked at your vidio I want to replace the pellet probe can you help me??
Yes no problem. Start by taking the action out of the stock. Detach the trigger shoe and loosen the action bolt underneath the handgrip. Now you can seperate action from the stock. On the left hand side of the action remove the small flat head screw out of the sliding hammer. Now at the rear of the action, unscrew the large flat headed nut which retain the hammer and hammer spring. Then on top at the rear of the action remove the flat head screw, now your cocking lever is loosened. Next, remove the small flat head screw which still holds the cocking lever to the pellet probe hinge. After all that, you can remove the probe which is than slid connected to the guide Rod. Hope this helps.
@@vwgoco Thank you Patrick let you know how I get on
Nice video... take the gun to a RFD shop.... and U are looking a 70 ta 100 quid... for a seal replacement.... to fix a air leak...a
REPOFF...what 45 ta 50 minutes ... 1 hour max...to fix ...a spanner man all me life...i no the poor old joe soap is been ripped off....😢...by the seals DIY job....but then again putting pellets in to the magazine big job for some...i did alot of shooting with air rifles in the UK ..i no how to strip a gun and put it back together.... again....
helo from IRELAND.... stay safe...
buy a desktop light before you record another video. Maybe we can see what you are doing.
glad to be of help,...