It's always great to have a general purpose greeble mold like that. If you have some leftover resin from some other cast, you can always pour that stuff into these to have more extra stuff at hand at a later date. I often do that with "greeble trenches" for Star Wars ship kitbashing.
I have done this with success a few times like RG astrsy Katana blade right on the sprue, but a good two part wall up is best for weapons going to get around to that soon when i get sone water clay.
Omg you were so briliant you can made any parts you want with this just seen it blowed my imagination to made more parts combination for perfect gunpla as we want.. truelly genius .
glade I could open some doors, im going to update the video and add some more mold videos that focus better, still figuring out how best to film them. ill throw some AOZ parts in the video cus they are so cool.
@@HAFGunpla Maybe you can help me out. Two of the fins from my MG Wing Gundam Proto Zero kit broke and while I did mend it using spruce goo and Mr. Cement, I wanna make a replica of the part. My first attempt wasn't successful and ended up breaking the two pieces off from the rest of the part again. I'm gonna try again; but which method would be best? Use some clay to reinforce the two parts so that they won't break when demolding the part from the silicone or after pouring the silicone into the tray, place the piece upside down, to cast it that way. Any help or tips to make this successful would be greatly appreciated.
Awesome video.... I don't actually do any gunpla stuff myself, but I watch a lot for build and painting tips and techniques as I scratch build wargamming stuff... I've been considering buying a few gunpla kits for the bits and greeblies, to do exactly what you show here and make some molds... Any advice on a couple of good kits where I can harvest the most amount of tech looking bits? :D Great videos and thanks for any advice...
Where do you get the silicone for the pour? I'd rather go to a store than buy online so I didn't know if any local stores even carried it..like hobby lobby, Michaels etc
wont carry the silicone at those types of stores, but look up smooth on brand company or reynolds advanced materials. Then if that not local enough search your area for Special effect supply stores selling mold making materials then if no other option amazon. think in a more recent mold making videos i talk more about the silicone check under my playlists .
Yes you could, mold on the sprues and cast them in any color definitely, but fit could be difficult if the resin shrinks to much would have to just glue in place.
I got a question: Say you can't get your hands on any sort of release spray, can WD-40 be used instead? Can anyone suggest an alternate solution? Would very much appreciate it. Thanks.
Definitely don’t use wd 40 too greasy but yea the release spray can be obtained where you purchase the silicone, could use dulling spray in a pinch but could do with out release on straight styrene it just makes demold a bit eaiser.
@@HAFGunpla I saw a shop posting about Smooth-On products here but I think they stopped selling them. So I'm stuck with local silicon sellers, also have no way to degas my silicon. Well, I'm just starting things, maybe things will improve for me in time. Thanks for sharing your process! Made me want to mold some parts.
Well if you have a local silicone Tin based with long cure time you can avoid degassing, just pour it high above the part and most bubbles get broken along the narrow stream. Ill try and going into better videos but hard to decide whats worth it to people, hit me up on IG with your local brand snd ill see if its comparable and I can test down the road
@@HAFGunpla I'm in the Philippines actually so this may not be comparable to anything that you have there. It's not a 1:1 mixture as well - so that's one of the biggest problems I have. I still can't figure out how to mix it properly - the hardener is 1 to 3% the total volume per the instructions. I'm trying to do 2% to 2.5% but I think i have to be really careful and fast mixing it or else it's uneven and some places gets hard right away - can't pour thinly.
I really want to get my hands on some smooth on or something easier to mix. Maybe when I have the funds for it. The cost is a bit high too compared to the cost of living here.
yes but would have air bubble issues would be better for walling up with clay and making a two part mold, but then if runner is large may have trouble closing and running with out hard jacket for support. I would recomend not molding entire runners and just pick the parts that are unique, or cut the runner down into manageable sections.
a entire runner for 1/144 is doable kinda HAF is correct your going to have to wall up key indentions vent/drains i use my vacuum oven vacuum out bubbles before pour and goes in vacuum after pour strategically placed drain makes sure every nook and cranny is filled 1/100 would split into 1/4 and PG 3 or parts at a time. You wanna do it right theres a whole process beginning with the mold building up sides making channels chamfer the edges where the 2 sides of mold meet mix your resinput under vacuum till no bubbles fill mold and put in a pressure vessel... yes you heard right under pressure makes even distribution and density its time consuming and a pain in the ass but you can make a copy for less then 20 buck s for MG. you can mix your own custom colors to. sell a few to your friends. lets take those older MG wing EW you could add surface detail very easy with scribing tape just think opposite...
i Still go for hot glue/cyno but wig tape can be a quicker alternative that sticks parts down nice but will have a litte extra surface to clean after casting, but I use it most to tack small parts for painting now, if I could find like a 2in wide roll would use it more.
Nearly anything from plaster stones to resin/epoxy to acrylic check out my mold video playlist i have a casting video included. Dealing with urethane resin
Depends on the area you are located, but in general it not going to be cheap cheap. Check out smoothon website and then check around to see if you have local SPFX suppliers to see what molding silicone they supply. I am located in Los Angeles so I live at the source.
@@HAFGunpla first, ty for the quick response, and 2nd I'm in Canada, but was just trying to get an idea of the cost to expect, and that way I can try to figure out how shipping is going to hit that cost. Ive tried a few methods, the one I've had the most success with is the Green Stuff reusable mold bars (hot water activated). But its really only useful for single parts.
But thats if you get a large kit which will last a longish time, quart kits and sample kits are cheaper if you want to give the process a try. But in long run for me larger quantities end up being cheaper. But id start small and see if it works for you.
@@HAFGunpla I do have lots to do, but I also want to get a 3D printer, but its just deciding on the best bang for the buck, with some options for upgrading when needed. And the resin seems to be the route. This isn't for gundam though, I build military kits, mostly aircraft and armor and I need lots of equipment parts, and stowage items, also upgrades. I really, really appreciate your willingness to help, its not often found in the hobby, at least to this extent and with the knowledge you come with, so ty 😊
Yes you can certainly mold them, but casting might be an issue as they are precision fit parts dealing with product shrinkage and elasticity, but i'll give it a go and see if i can make it work.thank you for the idea.
I do this Warhammer models. It's tedious to make a mold initially but making parts after the mold is done is super easy. So let's say It takes 2 hours to set up a mold, 1 day for the mold to cure then another hour at most to clean and ready the mold. Then it's a repeatable 15min process to make make new parts and you can get dozens to hundreds of parts out of the mold. Considering a Games Workshop kit can be $30 to easily $100, it is a quick return on investment of your time to recast bits you need extra of.
These molds are actually pretty bad. Compare them to other mold creators who strive to do the front and back sides of any one item and reproduce it. Simply not that great. I hope that in the almost year of quarantine the YT algorithm will have shown you other creators with a bit more technique than this--especially those in the decoden scene. Those girls go hard.
It's always great to have a general purpose greeble mold like that. If you have some leftover resin from some other cast, you can always pour that stuff into these to have more extra stuff at hand at a later date. I often do that with "greeble trenches" for Star Wars ship kitbashing.
It would be awesome to do this on weapons - now your MS can have even 8 katanas or 10 swords! Just needs more arms! Great vid!
I have done this with success a few times like RG astrsy Katana blade right on the sprue, but a good two part wall up is best for weapons going to get around to that soon when i get sone water clay.
@@HAFGunpla yeah that would be the best option for it - i haven't tried a 2 part mold yet. only one part molds and flat base.
Omg you were so briliant you can made any parts you want with this just seen it blowed my imagination to made more parts combination for perfect gunpla as we want.. truelly genius .
thank you.
This is what i needed! thanks youtube algoritme! Now i can try recast my hg Woundtwort instead of buying dumb expensive resell prices
glade I could open some doors, im going to update the video and add some more mold videos that focus better, still figuring out how best to film them. ill throw some AOZ parts in the video cus they are so cool.
absolutely awesome video this clears up a lot of confusion.
Glad it was helpful!
Bandai should absolutely start selling silicon detailing molds for resin, they'd make a killing
what a wonderful world that would be.
Hi Arc Foundry!!! :D (this is Komagata Heavy)
Hey hey 🙌😊 🤘🏻🔥🔥🤘🏻
Have you tried molding something more uh.... delicate, say the V fins (horns) from a gundam kit?
yes
@@HAFGunpla Maybe you can help me out. Two of the fins from my MG Wing Gundam Proto Zero kit broke and while I did mend it using spruce goo and Mr. Cement, I wanna make a replica of the part. My first attempt wasn't successful and ended up breaking the two pieces off from the rest of the part again. I'm gonna try again; but which method would be best? Use some clay to reinforce the two parts so that they won't break when demolding the part from the silicone or after pouring the silicone into the tray, place the piece upside down, to cast it that way. Any help or tips to make this successful would be greatly appreciated.
Next video: how to make a glass gundam
🤩😆
Next video: how to make cheap molding silicone at home
I wish i knew how to formulate silicone, but i could do price vs quality video, varies wildly depending on location and availability of silicone. 👍🏻
Amazing
Thank you 😊
Awesome video.... I don't actually do any gunpla stuff myself, but I watch a lot for build and painting tips and techniques as I scratch build wargamming stuff... I've been considering buying a few gunpla kits for the bits and greeblies, to do exactly what you show here and make some molds...
Any advice on a couple of good kits where I can harvest the most amount of tech looking bits? :D
Great videos and thanks for any advice...
Right on
Nest make a heat resistan mold so you can make the entire model out of metal
Yes indeed 👍🏻
Can we mold the Gundam Frame arm joints?
you can certainly try might have fitting issues in the castings since the resin will shrink a bit but you can mold the parts sure.
Where do you get the silicone for the pour? I'd rather go to a store than buy online so I didn't know if any local stores even carried it..like hobby lobby, Michaels etc
wont carry the silicone at those types of stores, but look up smooth on brand company or reynolds advanced materials. Then if that not local enough search your area for Special effect supply stores selling mold making materials then if no other option amazon. think in a more recent mold making videos i talk more about the silicone check under my playlists .
@@HAFGunpla ok ty very much
Can we mold phyco frame mg unicorn?
Yes you could, mold on the sprues and cast them in any color definitely, but fit could be difficult if the resin shrinks to much would have to just glue in place.
I got a question: Say you can't get your hands on any sort of release spray, can WD-40 be used instead? Can anyone suggest an alternate solution? Would very much appreciate it. Thanks.
If you can buy the silicone you can buy release spray
Definitely don’t use wd 40 too greasy but yea the release spray can be obtained where you purchase the silicone, could use dulling spray in a pinch but could do with out release on straight styrene it just makes demold a bit eaiser.
@@HAFGunpla Thanks. Never used this stuff before so I thought I'd ask.
I use vaseline, works great
I wish we had better silicon here. Well, I bet we do but they're too expensive for me. :(
Yea its a bummer anywhere outside California:(. Sorry ☹️
@@HAFGunpla I saw a shop posting about Smooth-On products here but I think they stopped selling them. So I'm stuck with local silicon sellers, also have no way to degas my silicon. Well, I'm just starting things, maybe things will improve for me in time. Thanks for sharing your process! Made me want to mold some parts.
Well if you have a local silicone Tin based with long cure time you can avoid degassing, just pour it high above the part and most bubbles get broken along the narrow stream. Ill try and going into better videos but hard to decide whats worth it to people, hit me up on IG with your local brand snd ill see if its comparable and I can test down the road
@@HAFGunpla I'm in the Philippines actually so this may not be comparable to anything that you have there. It's not a 1:1 mixture as well - so that's one of the biggest problems I have. I still can't figure out how to mix it properly - the hardener is 1 to 3% the total volume per the instructions. I'm trying to do 2% to 2.5% but I think i have to be really careful and fast mixing it or else it's uneven and some places gets hard right away - can't pour thinly.
I really want to get my hands on some smooth on or something easier to mix. Maybe when I have the funds for it. The cost is a bit high too compared to the cost of living here.
Would making a mold of an entire runner necessarily be the same process?
yes but would have air bubble issues would be better for walling up with clay and making a two part mold, but then if runner is large may have trouble closing and running with out hard jacket for support. I would recomend not molding entire runners and just pick the parts that are unique, or cut the runner down into manageable sections.
a entire runner for 1/144 is doable kinda HAF is correct your going to have to wall up key indentions vent/drains i use my vacuum oven vacuum out bubbles before pour and goes in vacuum after pour strategically placed drain makes sure every nook and cranny is filled 1/100 would split into 1/4 and PG 3 or parts at a time. You wanna do it right theres a whole process beginning with the mold building up sides making channels chamfer the edges where the 2 sides of mold meet mix your resinput under vacuum till no bubbles fill mold and put in a pressure vessel... yes you heard right under pressure makes even distribution and density its time consuming and a pain in the ass but you can make a copy for less then 20 buck s for MG. you can mix your own custom colors to. sell a few to your friends. lets take those older MG wing EW you could add surface detail very easy with scribing tape just think opposite...
after this would you use toupee tape again or go back to hot glue?
i Still go for hot glue/cyno but wig tape can be a quicker alternative that sticks parts down nice but will have a litte extra surface to clean after casting, but I use it most to tack small parts for painting now, if I could find like a 2in wide roll would use it more.
Also just tested out some generic 2in wide two sided tape for carpet works really nice and thinner and cheaper than toupee tape
Amazing techno music
Thank you the free TH-cam music library is surprisingly robust
So how do you make the parts with the mold, what substance do you pour into it?
Nearly anything from plaster stones to resin/epoxy to acrylic check out my mold video playlist i have a casting video included. Dealing with urethane resin
What's a good price to pay for that material you used?
Depends on the area you are located, but in general it not going to be cheap cheap. Check out smoothon website and then check around to see if you have local SPFX suppliers to see what molding silicone they supply. I am located in Los Angeles so I live at the source.
@@HAFGunpla first, ty for the quick response, and 2nd I'm in Canada, but was just trying to get an idea of the cost to expect, and that way I can try to figure out how shipping is going to hit that cost. Ive tried a few methods, the one I've had the most success with is the Green Stuff reusable mold bars (hot water activated). But its really only useful for single parts.
Most likely its going to be expensive to ship especially now. But again its varies but could expect it in the hundreds usa
But thats if you get a large kit which will last a longish time, quart kits and sample kits are cheaper if you want to give the process a try. But in long run for me larger quantities end up being cheaper. But id start small and see if it works for you.
@@HAFGunpla I do have lots to do, but I also want to get a 3D printer, but its just deciding on the best bang for the buck, with some options for upgrading when needed. And the resin seems to be the route. This isn't for gundam though, I build military kits, mostly aircraft and armor and I need lots of equipment parts, and stowage items, also upgrades. I really, really appreciate your willingness to help, its not often found in the hobby, at least to this extent and with the knowledge you come with, so ty 😊
You’ve don’t know what “true level” is.
Yes, only know “level enough”
@@HAFGunpla its a rick and morty reference.
O shit dawg, lol its been too long haha.
@@nameputhpong9041 he is familiar with the bubble..... dont even try
I dabble in precision
Can u mold Polly caps
Yes you can certainly mold them, but casting might be an issue as they are precision fit parts dealing with product shrinkage and elasticity, but i'll give it a go and see if i can make it work.thank you for the idea.
HAF Gunpla I’ve been searching for the idea but didn’t know where to start thank 👍🏼
it looks so tedious and challenging.
yes it can be, but can also be as easy as glueing a part in a cup and filling with silicone.
I do this Warhammer models.
It's tedious to make a mold initially but making parts after the mold is done is super easy.
So let's say It takes 2 hours to set up a mold, 1 day for the mold to cure then another hour at most to clean and ready the mold.
Then it's a repeatable 15min process to make make new parts and you can get dozens to hundreds of parts out of the mold.
Considering a Games Workshop kit can be $30 to easily $100, it is a quick return on investment of your time to recast bits you need extra of.
Is this legal, to make a clone of your gunpla?hahah
Yes for personal use, not to sell.
you cant profit more then it takes
to support your gunpla habit
maybe that was how daban copied bandai model kits
Partially im sure but there final molds would be metal for injection casting.
跪求一份拷貝
音樂重覆性太高 ， 聽久很煩 !!
我同意你的看法，现在很难改变。😿
These molds are actually pretty bad. Compare them to other mold creators who strive to do the front and back sides of any one item and reproduce it. Simply not that great. I hope that in the almost year of quarantine the YT algorithm will have shown you other creators with a bit more technique than this--especially those in the decoden scene. Those girls go hard.
Lol
Isnt this ripping off the manufacturers???
No its is techniques for personal use not for resale. Its about nuiance.
Yes good idea but you will kill the hobby!!!
Lol so dramatic.