"Frightfully expensive" is definitely the only reason why I spend a week of spare time during the winter fixing whatever damage I've accumulated over the summer! About the only thing you didn't cover as far as maintenance is replacing bungees (sometimes they fray) and tightening stuff. Once, I had one of my rudder screws fall out and didn't even know it until that end of season. It could have completely broke off, or let water in and could have ended in expensive tears, but I got lucky and it never got loose. So now with every seasons repairs, I also go over every cable, screw, etc. as well.
Your videos are great. I’m so glad I found this one in particular because I don’t really know how to maintain my kayak being it’s only my first year kayak fishing and I love it so much. And I want my yak to last as long as possible it’s my baby lol.. thanks for your time and helping us anglers our with our yaks.👍🏼👌🏼👊🏼
thank you for the tip.. here is my tip: you can use two paddy knife , when you use one the other is ready getting hot and ready to use again and repeat.
My little harbor freight cheapo is doing pretty well. I've fixed some pretty big drilled holes. At least as big as 1 inch. You can use anything with the HDPE label, I've used laundry detergent jugs so far. Thin so they melt fairly easy and I don't have to heat the boat itself anymore than necessary. I usually sand before I try and fix a spot though, to clean junk and old silicon away from where the previous owner attempted repairs.
Good point on the sanding before repair. I had not thought about that. I am a real fan of anything with the recycle symbol of "2" for HDPE. I wish I had a few empty containers when I did this video.
Kayak Hacks Fishing: Lightly sanding prior to melting the HDPE into the damaged area will provide some "grip" for the newly melted product to adhere to.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge. I've really been on the fence about getting a Kayak. I really want just focus on catching fish and making videos with as little work as possible. Every time I think, "man if i had a kayak i could...", I then think, "yeah, but they are just extra work". I didn't know that this type of maintenance was necessary. You've reinforced my personal views about owning one of these right now. I do know that eventually I'll get one though, just have to build the fishing channel up more.
It all depends on how hard you fish it. Where I am, oyster beds are always a challenge that will scape up the bottom. But, anyplace with a concrete boat launch can cause problems on the bow and stern if you are not careful.
darkomen42, not only that, here in Florida at least, they don't need a registration. Also, you don't have to worry about keeping a gas motor running. Plus you can get it into the backwater side of the road spots that you can't wade/ cast into or get an outboard motor into.
Fishing Kayak is the way to go to expand your fishing game at a low cost/maintenance! I'd recommend getting a used one to start off with. You can go to your local Kayak shop and demo to see what you like (pedal, non-pedal, length, make, weight, etc.). Then pick a used one up on Craigs List, Offer Up, Let Go, etc..
Thanks for the great how-to. The bottom of my boat sure needs it, but with below zero temperatures lately, it will have to wait until it warms up a bit.
I learned from your first welding video how to fix my kayak. I bought a used kayak online and found there was a giant crack in on of the scuppers. I used the harbor freight welder and it did bend, but I bent it back and it still works fine. When I get good enough for a high end kayak I will also invest in the hobie pro welder. Great video
Hopefully, my other reply was deleted... I gave the wrong URL. Here is the link to the protectant at Home Depot: www.homedepot.com/p/303-16-fl-oz-Indoor-and-Outdoor-Protectant-GDE-30440/206389828
I saw on a video and cant find it again maybe one of yours. You mentioned a braid line conditioner. I am unable to find any in Australia. Could you give me some details. Love your hacks. Thanks Paul
Here is the link to the Amazon US site - amzn.to/2TvAP8U The best performer I found was the Kevin VanDam Line and Lure Conditioner. Reel Magic. Here are all my reviews - th-cam.com/video/INftaGgJtzE/w-d-xo.html In addition to the conditioner, I switched to using Ardent Gliss line. It casts much farther than braid.
I bought the welding rods from Amazon. But you can create your own small strips by cutting up used plastic containers. I discuss that in this video - th-cam.com/video/lrJTkvTmsTc/w-d-xo.html
Great Info!! I had no idea all that could and should be done. Question: I'v heard people wax the bottom of their kayaks to make it easier/smoother to paddle. Is this a thing? Thanks!! ... OH and I received a piece of the hatch hole cutout scrap with my boat. Can I assume I can use that for the welding repairs? Thanks again.
YES! Save that cutout! It is a perfect match for your color and you can cut off small pieces to use. The guys on the Epic Kayak racing team did an experiment with waxing and found it actually slowed their speed by a slight fraction. The upside of waxing is that scum may not stick to the bottom. The downside is the smell might put off fish.
Yes, I use it there as well since it is exposed to UV. With my rubber footpads and the foam yoga mat I used for soundproofing, I do not have a problem with slipping while standing. I guess you should look at your own situation and see if it makes enough of a difference.
Saw a video of a guy using only pieces of tarp and a hot putty knife. Claims that the tarp is stronger than using any other type of plastic. Have you tried this technique.
I tried that after seeing the same video and I did not think it worked. The tarp just shriveled up. Also, I could not find a tarp that claimed to be made from HDPE - the material our fishing kayaks are made from.
I just got mine from Amazon - amzn.to/2j8GnIy Note that those are generic white. You can look around from that link to find red and black. If you want colors to match your kayak, you can get them from Austin Kayak.
Excellent tutorial on how to completely remove all the character a war marks from the bottom of a kayak. LOL, just kidding. Great info. I wish I could be out scratching and gouging mine.
Be careful using the putty knife technique. When you spread hot HDPE onto cold HDPE it does not bond together. Both surfaces have to be hot so it will adhere and seal. USE THIS TECHNIQUE AT YOUR OWN RISK: The technique I use to "rejuvenate" a kayak hull is to use a palm sander with 100-120 grit sand paper and leave the dust in place. KEEP THE GUN MOVING AND DO NOT STOP IN ONE SPOT! I set the heat gun on the highest setting and as the surface starts to melt/heat/change I move the gun in a steady overlapping pattern. Here is a video starting at 103 minutes in where I'm using this method to restore the bottom surface of a whitewater kayak. It doesn't show the sanding because if you need instructions for sanding...DO NOT ATTEMPT ANY METHODS USING HEAT! th-cam.com/video/t9UdHEJlGvI/w-d-xo.html I HOPE THIS HELPS! MANNY Z
Kayak Hacks Fishing: Yep, my local lake is frozen-over here in western Ky. My last time out on the kayak was Dec. 2nd, and it was 55º weather, with smooth water.
Your ideas are great! I saw a video of the factory finishing process used on the Twin Troller X10 to smooth down the rough edges on the hull. You can view it: th-cam.com/video/D-f8rh0gDvQ/w-d-xo.html This size torch is impractical for a DIY job but using a standard propane torch with flame spreader might work if one is careful. It would preserve the hull’s thickness. Also, heat gun can be used. See this video: th-cam.com/video/pFdiYSY7Qwk/w-d-xo.html
"Frightfully expensive" is definitely the only reason why I spend a week of spare time during the winter fixing whatever damage I've accumulated over the summer! About the only thing you didn't cover as far as maintenance is replacing bungees (sometimes they fray) and tightening stuff. Once, I had one of my rudder screws fall out and didn't even know it until that end of season. It could have completely broke off, or let water in and could have ended in expensive tears, but I got lucky and it never got loose. So now with every seasons repairs, I also go over every cable, screw, etc. as well.
THANK you for pointing out that omission. I am going to pin this comment to the top of the stack.
Your videos are great. I’m so glad I found this one in particular because I don’t really know how to maintain my kayak being it’s only my first year kayak fishing and I love it so much. And I want my yak to last as long as possible it’s my baby lol.. thanks for your time and helping us anglers our with our yaks.👍🏼👌🏼👊🏼
I really appreciate that! I'll work even harder!
You can also use an iron to smooth out the scratches if you don't have those other tools.
good point!
Glad I ran across this video, I love your excitement about kayaking!!
More to come!
thank you for the tip.. here is my tip: you can use two paddy knife , when you use one the other is ready getting hot and ready to use again and repeat.
Great idea! Thanks
My little harbor freight cheapo is doing pretty well. I've fixed some pretty big drilled holes. At least as big as 1 inch. You can use anything with the HDPE label, I've used laundry detergent jugs so far. Thin so they melt fairly easy and I don't have to heat the boat itself anymore than necessary. I usually sand before I try and fix a spot though, to clean junk and old silicon away from where the previous owner attempted repairs.
Good point on the sanding before repair. I had not thought about that. I am a real fan of anything with the recycle symbol of "2" for HDPE. I wish I had a few empty containers when I did this video.
Kayak Hacks Fishing: Lightly sanding prior to melting the HDPE into the damaged area will provide some "grip" for the newly melted product to adhere to.
I like the red repairs. Over a few seasons, I think that would start looking pretty cool! Good info, thank a bunch!🍻
Thanks for sharing your knowledge. I've really been on the fence about getting a Kayak. I really want just focus on catching fish and making videos with as little work as possible. Every time I think, "man if i had a kayak i could...", I then think, "yeah, but they are just extra work". I didn't know that this type of maintenance was necessary. You've reinforced my personal views about owning one of these right now. I do know that eventually I'll get one though, just have to build the fishing channel up more.
It all depends on how hard you fish it. Where I am, oyster beds are always a challenge that will scape up the bottom. But, anyplace with a concrete boat launch can cause problems on the bow and stern if you are not careful.
If you don't currently have a boat to get on the water, you can't beat a kayak. It gets you on the water and to places you can't get from the bank.
darkomen42, not only that, here in Florida at least, they don't need a registration. Also, you don't have to worry about keeping a gas motor running. Plus you can get it into the backwater side of the road spots that you can't wade/ cast into or get an outboard motor into.
Gary Jensen same in NC, no registration. There's nothing easier for a guy stuck on shore than picking up a kayak.
Fishing Kayak is the way to go to expand your fishing game at a low cost/maintenance! I'd recommend getting a used one to start off with. You can go to your local Kayak shop and demo to see what you like (pedal, non-pedal, length, make, weight, etc.). Then pick a used one up on Craigs List, Offer Up, Let Go, etc..
As always great info , you explain it well even an old country boy can understand it --thanks
Thanks! Appreciate it!
Thanks! I find all your videos informative.
Glad you like them!
Thanks for the great how-to. The bottom of my boat sure needs it, but with below zero temperatures lately, it will have to wait until it warms up a bit.
It's freezing here!
Great info and demonstrations!!
Thank you!
I learned from your first welding video how to fix my kayak. I bought a used kayak online and found there was a giant crack in on of the scuppers. I used the harbor freight welder and it did bend, but I bent it back and it still works fine. When I get good enough for a high end kayak I will also invest in the hobie pro welder. Great video
As long as the HF welder works, keep using it!!
Kayak Hacks Fishing I definitely will. I fish small lakes and the cape fear up here at Bragg so I don’t really bang up my kayak too much.
Hi there! What's that spray that you used for the final coat? I think I hear 303 but not quite sure. Nice tutorial!
Hopefully, my other reply was deleted... I gave the wrong URL. Here is the link to the protectant at Home Depot: www.homedepot.com/p/303-16-fl-oz-Indoor-and-Outdoor-Protectant-GDE-30440/206389828
Thanks!
I thought mine was bad. Good to know how to get it back to running smooth
I saw on a video and cant find it again maybe one of yours. You mentioned a braid line conditioner. I am unable to find any in Australia. Could you give me some details. Love your hacks. Thanks Paul
Here is the link to the Amazon US site - amzn.to/2TvAP8U
The best performer I found was the Kevin VanDam Line and Lure Conditioner. Reel Magic. Here are all my reviews - th-cam.com/video/INftaGgJtzE/w-d-xo.html
In addition to the conditioner, I switched to using Ardent Gliss line. It casts much farther than braid.
@@KayakhacksFishing Thank you for info
wondering if a soldering gun would be better then the stove and putty knife ?
I think that anything with a hot enough tip will work.
How to repair the kayaks if we are never out of season? Lol great tips Steve, I need to do some of those repairs
Use 'em till they collapse!! lol
what is the name of the spray you used at the end please.
You can probably find this locally - amzn.to/3j80rok
Good info and instruction. Where can it get those small strips of HDPE to make repairs
I bought the welding rods from Amazon. But you can create your own small strips by cutting up used plastic containers. I discuss that in this video - th-cam.com/video/lrJTkvTmsTc/w-d-xo.html
Great video man lots of very useful info in this video. Looks like I need to look at getting me the Hobie Pro Welder.
If you end up doing a lot of repair, it will last longer than the Harbor Freight version
I would definitely wear a mask!!!
Good point
What if I just burn the material n drip it onto the kayak surface before I flatten it..? Will it make the job easier..?
I do not think that will work since the material needs to blend and bond with the kayak. The material surrounding the crack has to be warm
@@KayakhacksFishing I agree.. tq sir for your reply.. -from Malaysia
Great Info!! I had no idea all that could and should be done. Question: I'v heard people wax the bottom of their kayaks to make it easier/smoother to paddle. Is this a thing? Thanks!! ... OH and I received a piece of the hatch hole cutout scrap with my boat.
Can I assume I can use that for the welding repairs? Thanks again.
YES! Save that cutout! It is a perfect match for your color and you can cut off small pieces to use. The guys on the Epic Kayak racing team did an experiment with waxing and found it actually slowed their speed by a slight fraction. The upside of waxing is that scum may not stick to the bottom. The downside is the smell might put off fish.
Thanks!! You da Man!
Good job on your repairs.
Thanks! Appreciate it!
Nice video but wish you had done more close up shots showing what the finish product looks like.
I'll do that when I make another repair video. Thanks for the feedback
Do you use the 303 on the top side too? I heard it made surfaces slippery. Good tips as always. Thanks
Yes, I use it there as well since it is exposed to UV. With my rubber footpads and the foam yoga mat I used for soundproofing, I do not have a problem with slipping while standing. I guess you should look at your own situation and see if it makes enough of a difference.
303 does not have silicone in it like ArmourAll. I see no need to use it on the bottom of the boat...unless one is constantly flipping over lol.
Saw a video of a guy using only pieces of tarp and a hot putty knife. Claims that the tarp is stronger than using any other type of plastic. Have you tried this technique.
I tried that after seeing the same video and I did not think it worked. The tarp just shriveled up. Also, I could not find a tarp that claimed to be made from HDPE - the material our fishing kayaks are made from.
Excellent video sir. Have a sub for your efforts.
Thank you very much!
FYI, there is no link for the welder.
Whoops - thanks! amzn.to/2zsuUwb
Where can I purchase HDPE welding rods? Thanks much
I just got mine from Amazon - amzn.to/2j8GnIy Note that those are generic white. You can look around from that link to find red and black. If you want colors to match your kayak, you can get them from Austin Kayak.
Thanks a bunch. One other question..200 watt or 80 watt on welder? What's your recommendation?
I think 80W is plenty of heat. 200W might melt everything so fast you will make a mistake
Great video! Thanks for sharing that!
Amazing video!!!!!
What is a "end of season"? :)
lol! For me, it's when the water gets too cold to risk a flip while kayak fishing!
Excellent tutorial on how to completely remove all the character a war marks from the bottom of a kayak. LOL, just kidding. Great info. I wish I could be out scratching and gouging mine.
And... if I buy a Hobie to replace this Native, every single scratch would be SOOOOO painful! Might even have to plunk down the $$ for matching HDPE!
Good Video
Thanks for the information.
Cool just needs keel guards so that don't happen again. There's videos on making them out of pvc piping and works really well 😆👍👍👈
I'll have to search for those - thanks
Why not just put a thin coat of bed liner on the keel, bow, and chines?
As soon as I get the bottom of mine smooth again, I'm going to try it.
Be careful using the putty knife technique. When you spread hot HDPE onto cold HDPE it does not bond together. Both surfaces have to be hot so it will adhere and seal.
USE THIS TECHNIQUE AT YOUR OWN RISK:
The technique I use to "rejuvenate" a kayak hull is to use a palm sander with 100-120 grit sand paper and leave the dust in place.
KEEP THE GUN MOVING AND DO NOT STOP IN ONE SPOT!
I set the heat gun on the highest setting and as the surface starts to melt/heat/change I move the gun in a steady overlapping pattern.
Here is a video starting at 103 minutes in where I'm using this method to restore the bottom surface of a whitewater kayak.
It doesn't show the sanding because if you need instructions for sanding...DO NOT ATTEMPT ANY METHODS USING HEAT!
th-cam.com/video/t9UdHEJlGvI/w-d-xo.html
I HOPE THIS HELPS!
MANNY Z
Thanks for the link!
As Mando would say: "This is the way." Then 303 everywhere, even nylon straps and shock cords :)
Nice informative video. I'm guessing your garage/workshop is heated. It's so cold in mine right now you could hang raw meat in it.
I shot this about a month ago! I'm freezing now!! :-)
Kayak Hacks Fishing: Yep, my local lake is frozen-over here in western Ky. My last time out on the kayak was Dec. 2nd, and it was 55º weather, with smooth water.
Makes us hope for March!
Kayak Hacks Fishing: Absolutely! 😎
A better option is grind or break up a plastic milk carton, add and smooth out with a hot iron.
Use two putty knifes
Watching you do this is better than watching Dr Pimple Popper 👍🏻😂
Lmao you said a few ..interesting words. Great video tho thanks for the info
Glad you enjoyed
I drag my nose so much im gonna get some more keelEZ
Your ideas are great! I saw a video of the factory finishing process used on the Twin Troller X10 to smooth down the rough edges on the hull. You can view it: th-cam.com/video/D-f8rh0gDvQ/w-d-xo.html This size torch is impractical for a DIY job but using a standard propane torch with flame spreader might work if one is careful. It would preserve the hull’s thickness.
Also, heat gun can be used. See this video: th-cam.com/video/pFdiYSY7Qwk/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for the links!