You guys must not paddle sallow rivers very often.... I'd have to do this after every single trip. These types of scratches are largely superficial. And that's coming from me who can't stand when stuff get's boogered up.
Same here. This is a good idea if you were going to hang it on the wall as a show piece or maybe put on market to sell. Launching off boat ramps and going through Louisiana swamps with mine, I'd have to make this a full time job. Now I understand some kayaks may be cheaper with thinner material and may need these scratches attended to.
The white water kayak dudes in France buy cheap tarps. PET tarps, that is. Exactly the right material. In a heavy duty kayak, color is not important. And they use an electric hot air paint remover for melting. The hard part is to melt the crack as well, not just the new material. You do not want just a flat new surface, you want the crack repaired. As good as new. Working too slow or too fast is no good. You'd heat up too much or not enough boat plastic. It looks easy, but it isn't. I do hope this video is not just cosmetics. Looks great, okay. And how good is it? I can't judge that, so I ask. Did you repair cracks that caused a leak? Deep cracks? Long cracks?
This is a great fix. As soon as I saw the brand name P-TEX I remembered using this product 50 years ago repairing the bottoms of the first metal skis in a ski rental shop. We would melt the plastic against the bottom of an old electric clothes iron, hold it point down and let it drip into the nicks & scratches on the ski bottoms, then iron it smooth.
I have a new Hobie Mirage Passport with an issue that is arrived with. Imagine taking a utility knife and slicing at an angle into the bottom, a raised elliptical flap of hard sharp plastic facing forward. Tore a huge gouge in my dock roller, Can I file down the raised flap with a dremel and then seal with this plastic candle? thanking you in advance for your assistance and the video is very informative, looking forward to more
A great and useful video and solution. I have noticed a foot-long super thin hairline/spider crack in my polyethylene kayak. Hard to see. And most likely it is not allowing water in the hull. But I want to repair it for the aesthetic improvement, and to prevent any potential worsening. I looked at Gorilla glue clear, Loctite polyethylene glue, and JB Weld polythene bond. All good it seems. But I'm choosing to go with your excellent solution. I hope the candles are good for polyethyline.
Interesting...would have liked to see the result of using a heat gun lightly after done to blend the area. Also, how well does this stuff stick to a clean smooth HDPE kayak surface? Can you peel of drop off clean with your finger nail or does it structurally bond to the HDPE? Thank you.
Is it actually wax or hot glue sticks? I've seen a method with a blow torch heating a metal paint scraper and then using cut strips of tarpaulin smeared into the cracks, the end result was stronger than the original hull
Jonny, this is plastic... not wax or hot glue. I doubt this is stronger than the original hull. If so, then hobie should just make the kayak out of this stuff LOL. It is however very strong and strong enough to repair the deep scratches. Cleaning out the scratches and then also using a little solvent will allow for a sterile environment for the two plastics to bond together.
Fish Finder thanks, we kayak out shark baits and bring a piece of old carpet to slide the kayak onto, the launch ramp was giving the bottom a rough time
Google1 User well; I’m gong to try to fabricate a new leading edge using plastic lumber I want to bring all the way up and beyond the top of the kayak about 10” maybe and wrap it all the way to the end creating a full keel. I’ll glue and bolt this new part on then melt plastic into the recessed screw holes. The intent is to increase the bow height to function more like a Nordic vessel and actually many ancient vessels had bow and stern sweeping up in order to react to waves faster and longer. These kayak manufacturers aren’t really very customer friendly are they?
I make fire starters and melt candles in a medal bowl. Not sure if you can do it with these candles but would try, No blackness at all. Thanks for the video very helpful
These are deep scratches... iron will not smooth them out. I also have another way to smooth out the finer scratches and will be making a video for that too.
The Swix Polysticks look similar to polyethylene kayak welding rods, but appear to be of a softer grade(scraping access off easily with the razor blade). Does it eventually harden comparable to the hull, or will it always be a little soft in the fill areas ?(similar to a paraffin wax?) Informative - Thanks.
They definitely harden like plastic and not wax. Not sure whether it is as hard as the kayak plastic. I think it has a lower melting point. They are used on the bottom of skis too for when they get deep scratches in them.
Forgive me for asking but that polystick material shaves off very easy. Is the left over stuff still has soft was the material you are shaving off or does it harden more ? I have always read use the exact same material as what your kayak is made of. AND why dont you use a welding gun with a flat tip and MASH that material into the scratch better instead of just letting it fall on the crack ?
When you shave it, the shavings are soft because they are very thin. I do not use a welding gun because that is not how these sticks are supposed to work. They are meant to be lit like you saw in the video. I have been using these things since the early 80s.
So.......wax. We're filling a polyethylene hull scratch with wax. So this hull is probably going to be around for another 30 years. How long is that wax going to stay in that groove? Just asking. Maybe forever.
@@FishFinder do you have an epoxy you recommend for Hobies? I've been using JB Waterweld and then flexseal spray over that, but it keeps getting torn off each time I launch (cement ramp covered in oysters)... would love any tips!
Thanks! Hobie hulls are soft. I have scratches on the side of my kayak from putting it on its side to put the cart in the scupper holes. I went over an oyster reef and a bbq pit. Not bad, but annoying.
Thanks for watching. Here are the plastic candles I am using to do the repair. amzn.to/2LduVoP If this video helps please click the like button so you have it saved in your favorites and I would appreciate you subscribing to see more.
When I skied and needed to repair the bottom of my ski, I would take a clothes iron, heat it, hold it point down, and press the stick to the bottom of the hot iron so the liquid would run off the point to the place where you needed a fill. That way there is no burning and carbon. You are just melting the stick. You need to use a dedicated iron.
I remember fixing the bottom of my skis when I was a kid with some thing called PTEX. if I remember correctly, you burned it and it melted, just like this wax. The only difference is you didn't really care what it look like when you were done. The melting plastic fused with the plastic base, and then you scraped it off, just like this. If you could do it without the burning, and the carbon getting into it, that would be ideal.
Wow! What a neat way to fix gouges. Will this product melt with a heat gun, or do you have to actually light it for it to work properly? Thanks so much for putting this out there.
Do you think there is a way to build up or actually attach a piece of this same material then mold it? I want to increase the bow leading edge. I want to attach a skeg mount. I wonder if milk container would work using a propane torch.
The material must be the same exact material to be a sound fix. Other materials as this one will work, but as you can see the plastic rods used here are a much softer material than the kayak. Try using a wax candle and you can make it look good, but it will not be a good fix. It will be more easily scratched in those areas. This gives a much prettier finished fix, but not what most are looking for. Most kayaks are made from #2 HDPE (High Density Polyethylene). This is generally found on the bottom of most plastic type products. Find containers and cut strips as needed. You can research the melting point and using a heat gun to melt the material into superficial scratches as this method does. I recommend this for a stronger fix and can avoid those black spots cause by using a soldering iron or a lighter as in this video. The soldering iron is a great tool in deeper scratches and patch repairs. Cleaning out the scratches is very important to have the material bond as good as possible as when you are soldering any type of material. Just a recommendation from my experience working in manufacturing for over 12 years and many more years of self experimentation. But whatever works for you is going to be from trial and error. Best of luck in all of your repairing process!!!
Solid method! I think this could be used in a welding application as well for deep scratches. I'm looking for a method to fill in small scratches in my kayak so they are concealed aesthetically. I'm guessing there's not one. Your method is good but doesn't aesthetically look good IMO. To me the faded areas around the repair look as bad as the scratch did. Thanks for the video!
Sorry but I have been skying and kayaking for years, this is simple P-Tex material. P-Tex is what we use to repair the bases of our skies. It is not a permanent fix and other than very minor scratches in the hull of your boat, this will not last.
You still need to AT LEAST warm up the target area/scratch with a hair dryer or something. I tried the entirety of your method, acetone/91% isopropyl prec-lean & it peeled it off like a wet band-aid. when i barely heated the surface/scratch the drip plastic was solid as a rock. used 220G light touch with the orbital sander and then 320G and wet hand sanded with 400/600G. it's the smoothest part of my yak that has been through three hurricanes... 1999 Ocean Kayak, Scrambler XT, 12.5ft
I have a deep gouge about 3/4" long and 1/4" wide on the side of my old town vaper 10 Angler kayak. I'd say it's halfway through the plastic. I did it hauling it home from the store, it rubbed against the cable on my tailgate. Do you think it will blend in well if I use your Technique?. My kayak is that camo green color. I'm really bummed about it
Dont those old towns have lifetime hull warranty? Call them and they can at least send you a color match rod you can plastic weld on in some fashion or cut a hole for rod holders or something and use that. You may be able to steal some from the inner area of the cockpit lip or seat too
My kayak is 3 years old but it looks like it's been through a war! It does have hundreds of kilometers on it though. I'm gonna need hundreds of those sticks lol
PTEX is what you use to fill scratches on skis and boards - but a PITA for a scratched up boat because final scraping/blading is not done on a flat surface.
@@FishFinder I use a 6" dutch razor every day in my work, but not on a plastic boat. The tarp method is much faster for repairing a well-used boat with multiple gouges. Also, I have used ptex candles for over 40 years. For skis or whatever you're working on, freeze your ptex candles before use to keep the flame small and reduce soot. Best to hold the dripping candle very close and let it fully melt and drip, but don't touch it to the work surface directly - it's not a welding rod.
Better use hdpe and make sure it doesnt turn black black means it lost its properties , not good in all plastics also always make sure its the same material otherwise its just cosmetic
patrick. +1 Kayak,hdpe; milk jug,hdpe; tarp,hdpe; these candles, low density. use same materials for best repair, and proper heat. Preheat area to be repaired also. Too much heat = brittle. Not enough heat = poor bond. Black is soot = carbon, you don't want that but it did scrape off. Very good video and repair. That low density poly will work just fine, and I like the way it is applied. but hdpe is everywhere and free. Plus it would make a stronger repair. Thanks for the vid.
It is not wax. It is plastic. I have been using it for decades and it lasts. Maybe you should try it yourself before trying to make an eye ball evaluation from a video
question, 1. what is the stuff name to repair scratch on kayak?? 2. how can we check something ding or hole on kayak? 3. my kayak always get the water inside, do you thing it is usual happen or there is a hole or dings? i checekd there is not any hole on ding on it
The stuff can be found in the link in the description. If you are getting water in side, you obviously have a leak somewhere. Not sure how to tell you how to find it.
Just so everyone knows, these candles are the wrong kind of plastic for kayaks. They are made for snowboards and skis, which are made of ldpe. Your kayak is hdpe. It is a harder plastic. LDPE will work, but not recommended. It won't hold up the same. Invest in the proper tools, and a milk jug is the perfect plastic for the repair. (high density polyethylene) vs (low density polyethylene) LDPE is softer and more flexible than HDPE. It also has a lower melting point (115° C) and is more transparent. ... HDPE is rigid and durable and offers greater chemical resistance. Its higher melting point (135° C) allows it to withstand higher temperatures than LDPE. Use the right tools for any job, and you will be happier for it.
the best thing about all of this is you can use whatever you want! As long as it works for you. Too many people get bent out of shape on youtube about what they believe is to be 100% correct. Let me know how the PVC works for you... i am interested
it is the same stuff that is used on the bottom of skiis. They are running on surfaces much harder than water. So far, the stuff I used is still holding up like the day it was applied
![How To Fix A Crack in a Kayak [Plastic Welding]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/K1CAdLAYQ7c/mqdefault.jpg)
The absolute best idea Ive seen anywhere online, ( after looking about way too many..😢). Great job !!
You guys must not paddle sallow rivers very often.... I'd have to do this after every single trip. These types of scratches are largely superficial. And that's coming from me who can't stand when stuff get's boogered up.
Same here. This is a good idea if you were going to hang it on the wall as a show piece or maybe put on market to sell. Launching off boat ramps and going through Louisiana swamps with mine, I'd have to make this a full time job. Now I understand some kayaks may be cheaper with thinner material and may need these scratches attended to.
Was thinking the same thing first time out with my canoe I had bigger scratch's that this haha
The white water kayak dudes in France buy cheap tarps. PET tarps, that is. Exactly the right material. In a heavy duty kayak, color is not important. And they use an electric hot air paint remover for melting.
The hard part is to melt the crack as well, not just the new material. You do not want just a flat new surface, you want the crack repaired. As good as new. Working too slow or too fast is no good. You'd heat up too much or not enough boat plastic. It looks easy, but it isn't.
I do hope this video is not just cosmetics. Looks great, okay. And how good is it? I can't judge that, so I ask. Did you repair cracks that caused a leak? Deep cracks? Long cracks?
Thanks, going to try this on my Hobie Oasis.
This is a great fix. As soon as I saw the brand name P-TEX I remembered using this product 50 years ago repairing the bottoms of the first metal skis in a ski rental shop. We would melt the plastic against the bottom of an old electric clothes iron, hold it point down and let it drip into the nicks & scratches on the ski bottoms, then iron it smooth.
yeah that stuff works great. People are making comments here thinking it is glue. They dont understand.
I just use a household iron. Run the tip or point of the iron over the cracks and gouges works like a dream.
Hi, I am thinking to try 'Porretta Co. Kayak Keel Guard Hull Protector'. Do you have any video on Kayak keel guard plates??
No I dont have a video on keel guard plates. However, I am coming up with a video on an alternative product to protect the bottom of the kayak
Thanks so much, I was just reading how sctraches can slow your kyak down, I hope It's as easy as you make it look
Thanks mate
Thanks for watching.
thank you for your video.... i have a question. is your plastic candle made out of HDPE as your kayak material is? thank you for your response
Nice Job. I wonder if you could find a matching kayak specific color?
Coming from a whitewater kayaker, they are NOT deep 😂
How do these differ from the poly welding strips?
I have a new Hobie Mirage Passport with an issue that is arrived with. Imagine taking a utility knife and slicing at an angle into the bottom, a raised elliptical flap of hard sharp plastic facing forward. Tore a huge gouge in my dock roller, Can I file down the raised flap with a dremel and then seal with this plastic candle? thanking you in advance for your assistance and the video is very informative, looking forward to more
Lin, if you sliced all the way through the kayak, then I would not use this stuff to repair it. I think you may need to do some plastic welding
A great and useful video and solution. I have noticed a foot-long super thin hairline/spider crack in my polyethylene kayak. Hard to see. And most likely it is not allowing water in the hull. But I want to repair it for the aesthetic improvement, and to prevent any potential worsening. I looked at Gorilla glue clear, Loctite polyethylene glue, and JB Weld polythene bond. All good it seems.
But I'm choosing to go with your excellent solution. I hope the candles are good for polyethyline.
thank you for watching. please share the video
Interesting...would have liked to see the result of using a heat gun lightly after done to blend the area. Also, how well does this stuff stick to a clean smooth HDPE kayak surface? Can you peel of drop off clean with your finger nail or does it structurally bond to the HDPE? Thank you.
My sticks arrived yesterday. I’m ready now
Is it actually wax or hot glue sticks?
I've seen a method with a blow torch heating a metal paint scraper and then using cut strips of tarpaulin smeared into the cracks, the end result was stronger than the original hull
Jonny, this is plastic... not wax or hot glue. I doubt this is stronger than the original hull. If so, then hobie should just make the kayak out of this stuff LOL. It is however very strong and strong enough to repair the deep scratches. Cleaning out the scratches and then also using a little solvent will allow for a sterile environment for the two plastics to bond together.
Fish Finder thanks, we kayak out shark baits and bring a piece of old carpet to slide the kayak onto, the launch ramp was giving the bottom a rough time
It looks like wax.... was it???
@@jonnywaselectric I carry a couple of pieces of 2x4 to slide the kayak onto. I have lava rock here that just slices into the plastic.
I wonder if PVC can be heat bonded in a manner like welding.
Aren't most these plastic kayaks made from ABS? Maybe Amazon sells PVC and ABS at very cheap prices. 🙏
Google1 User well; I’m gong to try to fabricate a new leading edge using plastic lumber I want to bring all the way up and beyond the top of the kayak about 10” maybe and wrap it all the way to the end creating a full keel. I’ll glue and bolt this new part on then melt plastic into the recessed screw holes.
The intent is to increase the bow height to function more like a Nordic vessel and actually many ancient vessels had bow and stern sweeping up in order to react to waves faster and longer.
These kayak manufacturers aren’t really very customer friendly are they?
I make fire starters and melt candles in a medal bowl. Not sure if you can do it with these candles but would try, No blackness at all. Thanks for the video very helpful
Thanks for this. I noticed some deep scratches in my outback today and will totally be doing this.
Are the candles your garden variety plastic, or high density polyethyline? HDPE
The candles are low density. Kayak is high density poly. Get free hdpe from poly tarps or milk and water jugs.
Another option is to use a clothes iron to smooth out scratches. Works really well.
These are deep scratches... iron will not smooth them out. I also have another way to smooth out the finer scratches and will be making a video for that too.
Where can I buy these plastic drip candles
I can see the link for candles, what are they called please?
link is in the description and the first pinned comments
How is this repair holding up? I’m eager to know
it is holding up great
The Swix Polysticks look similar to polyethylene kayak welding rods, but appear to be of a softer grade(scraping access off easily with the razor blade). Does it eventually harden comparable to the hull, or will it always be a little soft in the fill areas ?(similar to a paraffin wax?) Informative - Thanks.
They definitely harden like plastic and not wax. Not sure whether it is as hard as the kayak plastic. I think it has a lower melting point. They are used on the bottom of skis too for when they get deep scratches in them.
I am going to give it a try - Thanks.
Why not use the color you need to hide the scratches ? I mean if your going to fill them in might as well hide them too right ?
yellow was not available
What’s the difference between these “drip candles” and a glue gun stick?
these are not glue.. they are plastic
Real cool! Thank you. Going to check the bottom of my Kayak before the start of the season. Well done!
thanks Doug...
Free basing?
LOL....
Nice! Thanks for the tutorial.
Thanks for watching.
I’ve cut strips from a plastic milk jug and welded my kayak.
yes that is definitely another option
LL Justice what did you use to heat the plastic im trying to repair a crack
Would it bond, seal and strongly fix a long scratch that went all the way through?
@@Hundert1 probably will require someone than is familiar with plastic welding.
Does the wax stay? The sun can heat the kayak up pretty good. I am wondering the wax stay if the sun is baking on the boat
it stays because it is not wax... it is plastic
@@FishFinder My bad... I heard "candle" and automatically thought wax. That makes sense. Thanks!
this is the stuff for snowboards right?
yes that is correct
So you're not actually bonding anything or just filling in?
Forgive me for asking but that polystick material shaves off very easy. Is the left over stuff still has soft was the material you are shaving off or does it harden more ? I have always read use the exact same material as what your kayak is made of. AND why dont you use a welding gun with a flat tip and MASH that material into the scratch better instead of just letting it fall on the crack ?
When you shave it, the shavings are soft because they are very thin. I do not use a welding gun because that is not how these sticks are supposed to work. They are meant to be lit like you saw in the video. I have been using these things since the early 80s.
So.......wax. We're filling a polyethylene hull scratch with wax. So this hull is probably going to be around for another 30 years. How long is that wax going to stay in that groove? Just asking. Maybe forever.
Awesome tip, thanks for sharing!
you are welcome!
Very neat, but what if the scratch actually goes all the way through? Thanks
If it goes all the way through, then it is no longer a scratch.
@@FishFinder Exactly, now how to repair the cut through the hull?
For a hole that goes all the way through... I would use epoxy
@@FishFinder do you have an epoxy you recommend for Hobies? I've been using JB Waterweld and then flexseal spray over that, but it keeps getting torn off each time I launch (cement ramp covered in oysters)... would love any tips!
Are these sticks the same as hot glue gun sticks?
No, these are plastic, not glue sticks
Is this method good for deep scratches ….like more of a gouge ?
not good if the scratch goes all the way through
Thanks! Hobie hulls are soft. I have scratches on the side of my kayak from putting it on its side to put the cart in the scupper holes. I went over an oyster reef and a bbq pit. Not bad, but annoying.
Mine really got torn up even after I filmed this. I had to do it again
Is that just a glue stick? Or can a glue stick work just as fine?
Thanks for watching. Here are the plastic candles I am using to do the repair. amzn.to/2LduVoP If this video helps please click the like button so you have it saved in your favorites and I would appreciate you subscribing to see more.
When I skied and needed to repair the bottom of my ski, I would take a clothes iron, heat it, hold it point down, and press the stick to the bottom of the hot iron so the liquid would run off the point to the place where you needed a fill. That way there is no burning and carbon. You are just melting the stick. You need to use a dedicated iron.
The link in the description for the plastic is not working.
Tony C I just checked both links and they worked for me
Ok mate tod U using hot glue mate ,is it ok U think to use bathroom tiles celicon and Wip off exses with rag ?
Nice video looks like it would work great I just used a plastic welder on mine
It does work great
I remember fixing the bottom of my skis when I was a kid with some thing called PTEX. if I remember correctly, you burned it and it melted, just like this wax. The only difference is you didn't really care what it look like when you were done. The melting plastic fused with the plastic base, and then you scraped it off, just like this. If you could do it without the burning, and the carbon getting into it, that would be ideal.
Good Video
As we in my area prepare to put the kayaks up for the season, this is quality information.
thanks Bassmatazz
Wow! What a neat way to fix gouges. Will this product melt with a heat gun, or do you have to actually light it for it to work properly? Thanks so much for putting this out there.
Does it stay?
yes.. absolutely it stays
Do you think there is a way to build up or actually attach a piece of this same material then mold it?
I want to increase the bow leading edge. I want to attach a skeg mount. I wonder if milk container would work using a propane torch.
Could we use a glue gun?
I dont think a glue gun will get hot enough
Love this idea!!! I'm now a subscriber. Can't wait to check out other videos.
thankyou!
wow . thats amazing i spent half the day sanding my kayak holy cow , i gotta try this once ,, at least ,
yeah it is easy once you get the hang of it
Use an old can opener lightly to prep the scratch and clean ,just my 2 cents
or I an use my wife's good one
Is the candle material compatible with HDPE?
I am not sure if it is compatible..
The material must be the same exact material to be a sound fix. Other materials as this one will work, but as you can see the plastic rods used here are a much softer material than the kayak. Try using a wax candle and you can make it look good, but it will not be a good fix. It will be more easily scratched in those areas. This gives a much prettier finished fix, but not what most are looking for. Most kayaks are made from #2 HDPE (High Density Polyethylene). This is generally found on the bottom of most plastic type products. Find containers and cut strips as needed. You can research the melting point and using a heat gun to melt the material into superficial scratches as this method does. I recommend this for a stronger fix and can avoid those black spots cause by using a soldering iron or a lighter as in this video. The soldering iron is a great tool in deeper scratches and patch repairs. Cleaning out the scratches is very important to have the material bond as good as possible as when you are soldering any type of material. Just a recommendation from my experience working in manufacturing for over 12 years and many more years of self experimentation. But whatever works for you is going to be from trial and error. Best of luck in all of your repairing process!!!
Solid method! I think this could be used in a welding application as well for deep scratches. I'm looking for a method to fill in small scratches in my kayak so they are concealed aesthetically. I'm guessing there's not one. Your method is good but doesn't aesthetically look good IMO. To me the faded areas around the repair look as bad as the scratch did. Thanks for the video!
Jerry, this is step #1 of the process. My step #2 which I did not publish yet will take care of the surface scratches that you are concerned about.
Nope. Rather have faded spots vs filling in with water.
Where's the link in the description? I look up "plastic drip candles" on Amazon and just get candles that are plastic.
Sorry but I have been skying and kayaking for years, this is simple P-Tex material. P-Tex is what we use to repair the bases of our skies. It is not a permanent fix and other than very minor scratches in the hull of your boat, this will not last.
You still need to AT LEAST warm up the target area/scratch with a hair dryer or something. I tried the entirety of your method, acetone/91% isopropyl prec-lean & it peeled it off like a wet band-aid. when i barely heated the surface/scratch the drip plastic was solid as a rock. used 220G light touch with the orbital sander and then 320G and wet hand sanded with 400/600G. it's the smoothest part of my yak that has been through three hurricanes... 1999 Ocean Kayak, Scrambler XT, 12.5ft
I am glad it worked out for you...
@@FishFinder lol. Thank you for you tuta-lage, 😎🖒
LOOKS LIKE SURFBOARD WAX, HOW LONG IS THAT GOING TO HOLD UP? WHY NOT JUST MELT HDPE OF THE SAME COLOR INTO THE SCRATCHES?
it lasts virtually forever
@@FishFinder great to know!
I do kayak restorations and upgrades as a hobby, I do record and post my many different methods of repairs.
I have a deep gouge about 3/4" long and 1/4" wide on the side of my old town vaper 10 Angler kayak. I'd say it's halfway through the plastic. I did it hauling it home from the store, it rubbed against the cable on my tailgate. Do you think it will blend in well if I use your Technique?. My kayak is that camo green color. I'm really bummed about it
it is possible that it could blend well. However, you will likely end up with a scar like the one you see on the kayak that I repaired in the video.
@@FishFinder thank you for responding to my question. I'm going to try your Technique, I used to repair skis also with P Tex back in the 90's
Dont those old towns have lifetime hull warranty? Call them and they can at least send you a color match rod you can plastic weld on in some fashion or cut a hole for rod holders or something and use that. You may be able to steal some from the inner area of the cockpit lip or seat too
Wow. Thanks so much my order is in
i hope it works out for you Bob
My kayak is 3 years old but it looks like it's been through a war! It does have hundreds of kilometers on it though. I'm gonna need hundreds of those sticks lol
okay then... you may need to buy a few of these
you can just use a glue gun. It is cleaner and easier. Have some release paper handy to press the glue deep down into the scratch.
but this is not glue. give that a shot on your kayak
PTEX is what you use to fill scratches on skis and boards - but a PITA for a scratched up boat because final scraping/blading is not done on a flat surface.
scraping is no problem at all if you are skilled with a flexible razor blade.
@@FishFinder I use a 6" dutch razor every day in my work, but not on a plastic boat. The tarp method is much faster for repairing a well-used boat with multiple gouges. Also, I have used ptex candles for over 40 years. For skis or whatever you're working on, freeze your ptex candles before use to keep the flame small and reduce soot. Best to hold the dripping candle very close and let it fully melt and drip, but don't touch it to the work surface directly - it's not a welding rod.
I used p-tex for years when I was a ski tech. I am very comfortable using that stuff.
Thanks!
That’s PTEX, I’ve used it to fix snowboards and skis.
Need to fix a few scratches on my kayak. Are these normal glue gun sticks or?
They are plastic. I talked about that in the video. There is also a link in the description to where you can find them
Really nice grass behind you !
Great work. Thank you for idea
you are welcome
Better use hdpe and make sure it doesnt turn black black means it lost its properties , not good in all plastics also always make sure its the same material otherwise its just cosmetic
This has been holding for a few years
patrick. +1
Kayak,hdpe; milk jug,hdpe; tarp,hdpe; these candles, low density.
use same materials for best repair, and proper heat. Preheat area to be repaired also.
Too much heat = brittle. Not enough heat = poor bond. Black is soot = carbon, you don't want that but it did scrape off.
Very good video and repair. That low density poly will work just fine, and I like the way it is applied. but hdpe is everywhere and free. Plus it would make a stronger repair. Thanks for the vid.
Does it come off easy though?
It has never come off...
Nice Job l like the Product looks great, l noticed it has a dull Finish is there away that you could make shiny again?
Dave... yes absolutely! I am working on that video soon.
awesome
Maybe you can use it with a hot-glue gun? I'll have to try this. Thanks for the tip!
I dont think a hot glue gun would work.
@@FishFinder Hmmm... Should be so much easier if you can use it with a hot glue gun or something like.
@@fishingsauce Definitely, I don't see what the difference is other than a flame. Thanks for your comment
Just watched, awesome video. Got some gouges on my Hobie from launches. Will have to obtain this and give it a go
Thanks Russell. Good luck and let me know if you have any questions.
Seems as though this stuff is gonna be too soft for and big scratches !!
I think I'd rather use a soldering iron
It is not too soft. It hardens like plastic.
Dont let it touch, then yeah, I'm dabbing it lightly, that's the balance to this repair, im sure
Seems to work fine. Good job 😆👍👍👈
Never before seen on youtube!? AWESOME MAN!
thank you!
What an awesome method. Thanks for sharing. 👍
thank you Karlos
Great tutorial. I have several on my kayak that I need to fix. THanks!
Those scratches don't hurt anything.. They are nothing more than Rites of Passage.
Looks just like wax to me. Either way I agree. It won't last. I use JB Weld.
It is not wax. It is plastic. I have been using it for decades and it lasts. Maybe you should try it yourself before trying to make an eye ball evaluation from a video
Very helpful thank you I will be needing to do this
Glad you liked it. share with your friends :)
question,
1. what is the stuff name to repair scratch on kayak??
2. how can we check something ding or hole on kayak?
3. my kayak always get the water inside, do you thing it is usual happen or there is a hole or dings? i checekd there is not any hole on ding on it
The stuff can be found in the link in the description. If you are getting water in side, you obviously have a leak somewhere. Not sure how to tell you how to find it.
This is very useful information my friend!
Thank you... that is what I was trying to accomplish.
I wish I never sold my snowboard repair kit, its the same stuff .
Just so everyone knows, these candles are the wrong kind of plastic for kayaks. They are made for snowboards and skis, which are made of ldpe. Your kayak is hdpe. It is a harder plastic. LDPE will work, but not recommended. It won't hold up the same.
Invest in the proper tools, and a milk jug is the perfect plastic for the repair.
(high density polyethylene) vs (low density polyethylene)
LDPE is softer and more flexible than HDPE. It also has a lower melting point (115° C) and is more transparent. ... HDPE is rigid and durable and offers greater chemical resistance. Its higher melting point (135° C) allows it to withstand higher temperatures than LDPE.
Use the right tools for any job, and you will be happier for it.
PVC me baby I don’t care what the bottom of my old town looks like just want it strong
the best thing about all of this is you can use whatever you want! As long as it works for you. Too many people get bent out of shape on youtube about what they believe is to be 100% correct. Let me know how the PVC works for you... i am interested
Nice man!!! Thanks for sharing
Good stuff!💯💪👊LET'S GO!!!
I was wondering where you were.
Is that wax or HDPE?
Plastic P-tex
Just like repairing a snow ski.
exactly...
I was just gunna say so its Ptex
Why not use a gluegun, and avoid the soot?…..also, I would suggest to pre-heat the scratched surface to ensure a weld between the materials….
these are not glue
There's colored p tex
Now that is very cool, thanks for sharing
thanks for watching Phil
if it scrapes off that easy I don't see how durable it could be!!
it probably isnt durable for preventing future scratches, but it definitely made the bottom smoother
it is the same stuff that is used on the bottom of skiis. They are running on surfaces much harder than water. So far, the stuff I used is still holding up like the day it was applied
That is "P-Tex" ski base repair.
It cald hot glue dude and U can use hot glue gun to do a Bater job and also they don't stick good just use bath room colicin it's 100timez bather lol
Bill, that is NOT hot glue. I am using plastic and melting it into the scratches.
Bill Ghorban you should really learn how to spell