How to make a shower niche from start to finish
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 ต.ค. 2020
- When deciding to make a shower niche in our huge soaking tub and shower, it took a ton of brain space to think of how to do the job right. We’re going to use this shower every day! So, it’s gotta be done right. You don’t want to have to look at something in your shower and feel like you should have done it differently. This niche turned out perfect. And you can follow along with me and install your own shower niche to get the results you’ll be happy with. But we've got dibs on calling it the shower 'nookie'.
Do me a solid and subscribe to this channel:
SUBSCRIBE: th-cam.com/channels/4fz.html...
Here’s some other videos you might find interesting:
Installing a New Shower Valve with 3-Way Diverter [copper pipe]
• Installing a New Showe...
DIY mosaic shower tile custom accent:
• DIY Shower Tile Accent...
Bathtub Drain Kit Install [Through Access Panel]:
bit.ly/drainkit
Floor Tile Replacement [Complete Process] Floral Pattern:
bit.ly/floortileinstall
Change Golf Grips [Without Vise] And Add Shaft Extensions:
bit.ly/golfgrips
Spray Foam Insulation [Great Stuff Review]:
bit.ly/foaminsulation
Bathtub Drain Access Panel [Install]:
bit.ly/accesspanel
The stuff I used in this master bath remodel Install:
Our New HUGE Soaking Tub by Aqua Eden: amzn.to/3jqMRwZ
The actual Shower System Kit (Oil Rubbed Bronze) and Valve/Diverter: amzn.to/3kZd5aM
Close to the actual Schluter Trim color I used: amzn.to/3cMwpFG
Oil Rubbed Bronze Shower Head Holder Bracket: amzn.to/3n01Q3L
6” Shower Water Pipe w/Flange: amzn.to/3jgOHkA
10: Adjustable Shower Pipe Extension (for rain head to get past the handheld): amzn.to/3cKSofF
ABS Drain Kit (plumbing pipes, etc) with Oil Rubbed Brass Fittings: amzn.to/2QDHTRm
ABS Glue: amzn.to/32RDccr
Some of these link are affiliate links, which means that if you use them (at no extra cost to you) I might get a small commission. I’ll only put links to stuff I’m using or stuff I truly recommend.
Music I used here: bensound.com
The valve kit install, check it out: th-cam.com/video/AX1CVJ9nCAs/w-d-xo.html
Nice video i need that outside metal frame that you used can u give me the link w here u got that thx
@@johnal4560 Close to the actual Schluter Trim color I used from Amazon: amzn.to/3cMwpFG
They're much easier to get (and half the price) at your local hardware.
Thank you for good working and explanation.
Glad it was helpful!
I’ve seen a lot of these videos and yours is pretty easy to follow. Tiled my first shower two years ago following TH-cam videos. I came across your video because I’ll be doing my wife’s shower and needed to review what I did the first time. She didn’t trust me to do her bathroom first. Lol Anyway, great job. It looks great!
Thx Will. Its good to keep the wife happy. Especially when its fun doing the work. 😉 Check back in and let me know how it went!
This answered a number of questions I had for a similar project. Thank you.
Awesome, DF! Glad it was helpful.
Excellent video. Doing my shower niches for the wifey now and your video is detailed. A+
Awesome, Dave! Best of luck with the project. Nookie for the wifey!
Absolute perfectionist. Cutting, recutting, recutting. I hate when people rush important details... I'd rather waste a day and make it nice on the bits that matter like this.
Agreed. Most of the work I do is to my own house and I want to know that I did my best on the project. It might not always be perfect, but it's about the process of getting it as close as possible.
Wouldn’t it be more waterproof in the niche if the sloped base tile go in first ? Water on the back wall tiles would drip onto the bottom tiles vs. your way the water can seep in behind the rest of the lower tile.
The tile and the wood frame is sloped. The only real difference is the thickness of the grout line in the back.
@@Gofastpowder, I building my own tiled shower for the first time ever and it’s taking me so long because I’m a perfectionist.
Great instruction , thanks very much for posting
Glad to hear it, Joe!
Excellent information. Thank you, sir.
Glad it was helpful.
Hey man about to redo my shower after 3 years . Not because it failed but cause the wife wants different look. And to be honest almost just like yours with the exception it’s just a walk in shower. But I think you did a awesome job. For the people that says it’s gonna fail. Guess what if it does then so be it. That’s why most of these videos is for people like me. DIY. and still learning at 52 yrs of age. Great job and I’m a new subscriber
Thanks for the vote of confidence, William. I appreciate you. And thanks for the sub!
You explain it to the tea very decrptive. Def new subscriber
Thanks for the sub, Dave!
Hey man, really appreciate this. Keep it up!
Thx Ciph3r! High five.
Simply awesome 👌
Much appreciated
Fantastic Job
Thanks, ORV.
This is so helpful thanks
Glad it was useful, Paul! Thx for watching.
Finally somebody who work almost like me in regard of following grout lines both vertical and horizontal, except I place a dummy tile with clips but without thin set on the place where the niche is going to be and cut the opening on the W.B the next day after removing the dummy tile at the last moment after it all dry. This way I don't have to put supports sticks in place of the opening.
Good stuff, Edi. Thanks for the pointer. 👍
Nice work!
Thanks!
Awesome. I would just put the back panel for the niche first. Thanks for the video.
That seems to be the number one change for next time around. And probably the best way to do it. Thanks!
Great Job Bro!!
Thanks! 🤜🏼
Félicitations! Great job!
Thanks, Andre! I appreciate the high five. :)
Very informative video is showed me a lot thank you
Love to hear it, Sammy. Get yours done!
Good work,but I would’ve prefer the bottom tile one piece with no joints and installed before the back tile,to allow for water draining on top of it.
You make good points, Noel. And I thought of a single piece of material at the bottom. However, the tile itself stops at 24" and I'd have to buy a piece of marble to custom cut at 29" that would nearly double the cost of the niche. All things considered, it drains pretty well as it is and we're happy with it. Thanks for chiming in!
Not realy its waterproof then it pitch grout n silicone alls corner never leack
God job amigo.
Thx Alex. Much appreciated.
Great video
Thanks for watching!
Good video. I've used a different leveling system for tile work on my floors, but I think I'll use the one you did for my bath/shower. Also, I'm going to use the Schluter edging you used. I think that I'll buy a niche that Schluter makes. They have a variety of sizes and it's not very expensive. Oh, I think for my niche back wall I'm going to use that glass tile you see. I forget what it's called but they are small pieces of rectangular-shaped tile. You can get that tile in lots of different colors and I think that will add a nice aesthetic.
Sounds like a solid plan!
Good stuff. Thank you. Inspiring me to build a nookie🤪
High five, Jose! We do it all for the Nookie!
butter your metal shulter then press onto each peice of tile then install much easier.
Thx Rob!
Nice Job
Thanks!
Excellent video. Can you make a video how to install a niche in finished bathroom? Thanks
@10:00, The tile on the back of insert should have been placed in last sitting on top of bottom row for water proofing purposes.
Thanks, Will. Definitely a good idea.
Great job! What tile spacers are those?
amzn.to/3mc65Jk here’s the link. Thanks for the high five!
love your video! I have a question about the grouting. Do you grout in between the tile and the trim pieces?
Thx Peter! Yes. Then wipe the trim down with a damp cloth. Sanded grout can pose a scratch danger to your trim.
@@coolhandryan youre the man
Hey Ryan loved the video. Did you use the tile trim all the way around the other tiles on the side wall and up on the ceiling?
Yes. Along each outside tile line but not on the ceiling line.
I ran the tile all the way to the ceiling.
I would have used the glass accent in that niche. But it still looks fantastic.
Definitely thought of that when I was drawing it up. Did you see the accent video I posted? It was pretty involved and we ran out of the actual glass tiles. We also thought it might have upstaged the wall accent. Great point though, Selina.
can you tell me what system you use for tile spacing and leveling. Thanks much
it was fast tutorial bro, but not so fast i could not pick up everything...that tip about making sure the bottom 2x4 tipped downward some so water wont puddle or remain in the niche, was invaluable. also first time i saw how to use that black aluminum edge pieces...finish job looks like a million dollars...wow...thanks
@blackyboi2885 thanks for leaving a comment. glad it was helpful for you!
I am thinking of doing this myself but have never tiled before or done waterproofing. This is a helpful guide. Thanks!👍
Glad it is helpful. Make sure to put on the waterproofing membrane and don't skimp on it. :)
I have seen other videos where you just screw in the bottom piece of the frame sloping forwards so you don’t need to build up the mud under the tiles for the drainage. It is much easier to do.
I love that idea
This is a very helpful video. So did you place the wall tile up even with the cement board at the bottom of the niche? So it's all flush and then you place your trim piece with the flange on the cement board and the "L" of the trim sits on top of the wall tile?
I'm concerned with the tile thickness plus the mortar raising my niche shelf tile taller than the trim but don't know if that is likely to be an issue.
The trim edge should be pretty close to the thickness of your tile so that you can fit it between the cement board and the tile and it will cover the edge of the tile for a finished look. I have it taped in place (9:20) to make the right adjustments before slapping in all the mortar.
What do you think about those premade niches you can buy? You still need to tile them but I just wondered what your thought are on those.
Hey Jim. My initial thoughts on the prefab niche forms is that they are pricey and they hold you to the specific size of the box. I wanted a much larger niche than the boxes I saw pre-made. But if you can find a box the exact size you want and need, and don't mind spending the extra cash, then a pre-made frame could make the job faster.
Not bad!
Thanks!
When you put the shims in to support the top , did that change the level of the bottom tile seeing how much thin set you used to get the right slope ?
Pretty sure I let the bottom set for a couple hours then came back to do the top.
You had to float the bottom tile more than you thought because you accounted for that tile when deciding how much lower to install the 2X4 when really you shouldn't have counted that because the bottom tile of the niche and the trim piece sits on TOP of the tile going up the wall and not below.
Thank you for the explanation, Myish. If I ever make another niche, there's plenty I'd do to add to and adjust the plans. This would be one of them.
@@coolhandryan It's easy to critique anything with hindsight. You did a great job. Doing it and making mistakes is the only way to get better.
Ive heard putting shims under the waterproof drywall helps with the slope.
Sounds like that would work nicely in the right situation
Nice idea, not sure about the black frame though.
Thanks. Yeah, the video doesn't show the oil-rubbed bronze fixtures on the valve set. The black trim on the niche matches nicely.
Would it be a better process to have put the bottom shelf in before the back tile for a better watershed?
That is the common and best practice, yes. There's always an issue with projects in one way or another. But for mine, I don't find it a problem. The niche doesn't take direct water and I've got it sealed underneath.
Yeah that aquadefense won't come off your hands, but on the plus side your hands will be waterproof for life.
It even makes you swim faster.
Do you need a gap space of 1/8 between the outside of the trim to the side tiles?
They arent that thick. Youll need to slide in the trim while the tile mortar is still wet. So, its really just making a nice little home for itself. I dont think I measured for it.
I would have made the niche all black with black tile on the back and sides...but hey it's your bathroom and you do you.
I noticed your tile came off the wall Easley in the beginning in hind sight is there any thing wrong if a guy wants to use the big ol fat 1/2 × 1/2 trowl unless of course it's a shower floor !
I wanted to ask about the bottom of netich tile setting detail ,is it better to do the bottom first then the back, sides ,and top for water that my hit the back wall of the neich to run down and hit the bottom tile then role out and off instead of rolling down the back tile, and being able to get traped in the grout line between the bottom tile and the back tile ,just want to know if it matters or not ? Only trying to do the best job I can ,thank you for your time, great video ,and any thought's on the matter ! ✌🏻
Hi Nunya. Thanks for the questions. The 1/4" trowel is standard IMO. They'll come off easy when you just put them on. If there's good suction/vacuum then you'll need to pry a little bit. They mortar will set up pretty fast, it would be hard to get a tile off after about 10-15 minutes depending on the brand.
Yes, is hindsight, the bottom would be better to add first. But I've had no problem with water build-up in my niche because it doesn't get directly hit by water. Even when it does, it still rolls out nicely. But a solid piece of marble or a single tight fit tile on the bottom would be the prudent way to proceed.
Get workin! :)
@@coolhandryan thanks for the tip I'm getting my shower pan liner in this week and it's been a while since i'v done one so just trying to brush up on some technical aspects of the task at hand I'll check out your channel and see if you have any shower pan dirt to curtains how to videos ,thank for the quick reply 👍🏻✌🏻
Yes I got something out of this
Glad to hear it, Juan!
Question or two: can these cubbies be done on a 2x4 wall? It appears you are using a sandy surface tile, low gloss. I have well water and am considering the same in order to conceal eventual mineral deposits. Is that why you're using low gloss tile? Any experience with tile finishes and well water? thank you
Id make sure the wall could hold itself up once the frame was redone to accept a reasonably sized niche. I have little experience with glossy tiles, except the accent video on this channel. Unsanded grout should be used with a 1/8“ or 1/16“ grout gap. The unsanded grout will help keep the scratching to a minimum.
No experience with well water though. I used the tile because we liked it, no other reason. We have rather hard water. But it hasnt been an issue.
Sanded grout is for floors and unwanted for wall tile. If I'm using a larger joint line in a wall tile application I'll mix wall and floor grout together. It fills the joint better then just wall grout. The grout color will change slightly but must of the time it's not noticeable
If that's a load bearing wall you need to put in a header and jack studs to carry the load.
Good note, Doug. That particular wall is not load bearing.
Or to avoid all that, you can more simply build the niche between the existing studs, even two niches one above the other for extra storage.
If you dry fit the schlueters around nitch then measure cuts on nitch sides and have them all ready to go, then pull out schlueter and thinset sides all around , you now can install schlueter and tile all in one shot, much easier to trowel that way instead of having the schlueter there and trying to thinset behind that edging where you don't have that much space
Good stuff 👍🏼
I use densshield way easyer to instale
Good stuff, Marco. I've not used Denshield but it looks to be a great option. I used Durock because it was cheap and readily available.
Tile bottom of niche first then the back first. This is recommended
I might try that if I get the chance to do another niche. This one worked out nicely though, and we are enjoying the results.
So it’s ok to just glue the back piece to the wall?
That particular adhesive is rated for cement board. Once it dries against the sheetrock, all of the other elements that you apply to the cement board keep everything in place.
Thanks video answered my main question: “How do you fixate the niche wall Durock to the backer board without using nails?” 🙏🏽
Glad you found the answer in the video. Liquid Nails is a lifesaver in many areas of DIY.
How do we know what size trim to use for 12×24 tile ?
If you're referring to the aluminum trim, it's pretty much sized to cover the end of the tile edges that are facing out from the inside of the side walls. 1/4". The long perforated blades of the trim fit under those tiles. Take a look at the trim in the store before you do your install and make sure you wrap your head around the process before you take it home and mix your mortar.
What tool is that that you use to cut the durock? Is it drywall hand saw?
Yup, a drywall hand saw to cut the hole for the niche once the cement board was fixed to the wall. Just guide it along the wood frame. A regular razor knife to clean up the edges.
@@coolhandryan thanks for quick answer. I didn’t know that drywall saw works. I’ve been using the score knife.
@Leo H It cuts through pretty easy once the board is attached. For all other cuts I used a score and snap with a regular razor knife. But the method of cutting the hole once the board was attached needed a different method. The saw was close and quick. 😜
do you fill the tub with water before caulking the tile to the deck of the tub?
I don't think that is necessary if you already secured the lip of the tub to the cleats with deck screws. I didn't fill with water, just calked and it's been fine for years.
@@coolhandryanThanks ! Is your tub metal or acrylic ?
@@walnutcontractors5661 It's fiberglass with acrylic.
@ 8:25 How about use the small $60 metal cutter? Because that big miter saw scared the crap out of me when the schluter trim flew across the room. Could had hurt someone.
Absolutely. Whichever option you have that is most safe and still provides a clean edge. But I’m sometimes more adventurous/stupid than others.
Use grinder dude
What size of spacers do you use ?
1/8” spacers
Have you used the Kerdi style of drywall and niche?
Hey Ted. I haven't used the Kerdi wall board or their prebuilt niches. As part of my DIY, I was looking to save some dough. A Kerdi niche is roughly $90 and a sheet of Durock is $10, which was plenty for the whole niche. Plus I had the ability to double up the Durock when my measurements were off. I did use the Kerdi Schluter trim around the niche though.
Save your money
Don't bother with the kerdi
Plenty of other tile backers out there for far less money. I use dens-shield. Concrete board is ok but it's very difficult to work with. Between the 2 product the warranty is identical and there's far less perp for dens-shield.
@@davidwilcox1897 The Kerdi takes the guess work out. The labor to install Kerdi is easier and faster than using cement board, tape, mortar and liquid membrane. The Kerdi will also be ready for tile sooner than custom built. More importantly, the chances of a DIY or professionally built niche having water/moisture/leaking issues is far greater than the Kerdi Niche. That alone makes $80 money well spent.
@@alan2112drums whatever works for you.
I did it alll foorrr the noookiieeee
probably the most true statement in the video
Do you caulk all the inside corners of the shower niche? Or just grout them?
Hey Chuck. I used grout on mine. But I used caulking on the horizontal base of the tile where it meets the tub. If you’re concerned that your nookie will shift significantly then use caulking.
I’m in California… I think caulk on the corners is mandatory, because of the movement we get.
Chaulk all corners.
All the time 🙂
Won’t the black metal trim Rustin the shower?
Hi Hope. No it will not rust. It is made of aluminum and the top coat is pretty durable.
the framing for the niche didn't need jack studs or header?
I used a simple box frame. Its not a weight bearing wall and will never hold anything heavy.
@@coolhandryan How does one determine that the wall is indeed not load-bearing?
@@dcppcp structural or load bearing walls typically run perpendicular to the joists. Take a look at your eave outside and you may be able to see the joists protruding under the eave. Your weight bearing walls will should be running the opposite direction.
Why wouldn’t you do the top and sides then the bottom
In hindsight that would probably be the better play. At the time, I think I was concerned about the amount of mortar needed to fill the bottom which could have caused a short install of the sides. And I wanted to have the bottom installed so I could wedge the top in. There’s always something I’d do different on every project. 🤣
the tile goes on the back of the niche last not first
Thanks gad. That seems to be the needed order of things. However, I haven't had a problem with my niche because it is not underwater.
Mosaic?
Mosaic tile on the back wall is definitely an option.
Dude you look and sound like Ray in Rainman Rays Auto Repair channel. You could pass for his twin.
Not bad. He's doin alright!
I apologize in advance for being critical but 55,000 people have watched your video and judging by the comments, most don't know what they're actually seeing or what to look for.
Tile setters do not (or should not) use 1/4" square notched trowels to set large format wall tile. It doesn't leave enough adhesive. The industry standard for how much of the wall tile is bonded to the substrate (referred to as "coverage") is 95%. The bottom tile you removed to correct for plumb appeared to have about 25% coverage (maybe less) because very few of the trowel ridges were collapsed. You made the coverage even worse by adding mortar to the top. This is one reason tile jobs fail over time.
It's very important to mix thin set according to manufacturers specs. Use a measuring device. There is tolerance but be as accurate as possible for what you're doing. You'll find it's much better/easier to work with and does what you need it to do (it will last longer in the pail if you're working slowly; it will not make as big a mess when applying and will have optimal strength when cured).
Great comment, Alan. Thanks for adding to the conversation. All DIY threads benefit from the experience of professionals.
Definitely move up to the 1/2 inch trowel. You won’t believe how much faster and easier things will go!
De qué grosor es el perfil esquinero?
If you're referring to the aluminum trim, I'm pretty sure it was .5" or 12-13mm on the face. Twice as wide as the thickness of the tile.
@@coolhandryansí a eso me refería. Muchas gracias 😊
@@mercedesrr23 On further inspection it is closer to 3/8" (9.5mm)
What’s the purpose of putting a water sealant over top of concrete board? Is it not designed so that when water gets through the grout that it will dissipate throughout the concrete board and not puddle up anywhere by putting a coat of water proofing on there like that, all the water is gonna run down behind The Tile and pull up at the bottom, thus causing issues concrete board was designed to get wet absorb. It dissipated gone no worries you could literally take it outside. How is it down come back later or the next day and it’ll be just exactly the same as it was before you hose it down I don’t know it just seems kind of redundant and a waste of time and money to seal the entire if you want to do the joints I could see that OK but the entire thing I think you’re missing the point of what concrete board is and what is supposed to do just an opinion like assholes everyone has one carry-on have a great day always Steve
Great Niche, But I dont understand the obsession with putting in the bottom 2x4 off level. If you have concrete board, taped and mortared in, Then Waterproofing liquid liner, with reinforcing tape imbedded into the membrane, Then mortar tile and grout, If water is getting in there to the framing layer and rolling off the 2x4, behind all of your defenses, you're done son. Thats a game over for your entire shower. At that point you might as well waterproof membrane the framing of your niche before you rock board(in fact just get a compressor HVLP spray gun, figure out how to thin down a liquid pool water proofer and cover your house.). Why not add the 1/8 inch slope for draining at the tile level? Under the tile while you mortar in with tile spacers as shims?
Ideally the design is to only have to put the cenent board on top of the slightly angled 2x4, which would speed up the process. It didnt work out that way with this niche. But it ultimately worked out fine. Not sure it was an obsession, just how I learned to do it.
@@coolhandryan Yeah, not your obsession, I just see alot of guys doing that way, and think its not wrong just silly. When you can put that slope into your tile at the end. I just pulled some tile and the mortar layer seemed pretty dry back there..behind the water proofed tile. In fact theres a spec for that. It's 3% water absorption fully submerged for tile bisque since the glaze is considered fully water proof. You'll probably have to fire cone 6 to get a clay that can do that. Thats the tile. Not the latex modified mortar layer....Ehh ill water proof the studs but not slant them. If water is getting back there I hope it stays there. It wont be moving around to anywhere good if its getting back there.
The tiles for the sill should be done before the tiles on back of the niche. Back tiles should overlap the bottom sill so water will run on top of the tile, not on the grout line. If I’m wrong with my comment, I’ll appreciate if someone could correct me.
👍 7:10 7:15
😜🤭
That’s not schluter it’s customs metal edging
Bought it at Home Depot and it was called Schluter Trim. Did they label it incorrectly?
It looks like bengard.
Customs has circles that embed into the mortar. Schluter has trapezoids (or whatever they’re called).
The trowel you're using is way too small.
TOTALLY WRONG: NICHE:
BOTTOM TILE NEEDS TO BE INSTALLED BEFORE THE BACK WALL.
😱😱😱
Thx for chiming in so enthusiastically, Lu. That is the main concern about this project and viewers should be aware of that one step. However, I believe that is the only issue. The niche is now years old and is performing perfectly.
@@coolhandryan I'm not better than you but this little issue will PERFORMING PERFECTLY if tou do the right wsy,
Of course if water going/leaking on the back after one year you will not see that.
Been see a lot of PROFESSIONALS doing same thing.and also doing the shoer floor after wall tile. Same issue.
@@Lu-cho Seems the same comment as before, Lu. Yes, you are correct about the process. I'm in full agreement. I also know that my particular niche is not under direct running water so it is actually performing the way I wanted it to. There is not enough sweating of the tile to create any issues where it is. Again, this is a DIY project that I think has been done pretty well. Your comment has been accepted and noted.
The level you're using is also ridiculuosly small.
Thanks for commenting. Is that a note for people watching? Or is that a note for me... cause I've already built it. 😂
It's a note for you. Ok, here's a great example. Put a 1 foot level ont the floor and see how level it is. Then try it with a 3 foot level, then with a 6 foot level. The most accurate info comes from the largest level. When you are looking at your wall tile with an 8 inch level, maybe you're out of plumb by a millimeter, but that's a millimeter for every 8 inches. By the time you get to the ceiling, you might be out of plumb by half an inch. And you used a trowel meant for much smaller tile. You should have used a half inch trowel or at least a 3/8x3/8. The bond would be way stronger.@@ryanandrz
Quit calling it schluter
🤣SORRY YOUR INSTALLATION TECHNIQUE IS F*CK UP
Curious what you think went wrong?
Amateur work stay away from the trade🤮
Gotta love amateur feedback. I’ll make a deal with you: I’ll stay away from the trade, you stay away from YT commenting. 😂
Your shower will fail.
Curious why you think that, Tom? This was months ago and the shower is 100% functional, and the niche is in great shape.