Tested: Lulzbot TAZ 6 3D Printer Review
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 ก.ย. 2024
- Sean and Norm review the Lulzbot TAZ 6, a 3D printer with a pretty massize print bed size. We talk about how it works out of the box, features like the self-leveling PEI bed, and the benefits of it being an open-sourced design. But the printer does come at a premium price.
Find out more about the TAZ 6 here:
www.matterhacke...
Shot by Gunther Kirsch and edited by Norman Chan
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Tested is:
Adam Savage / donttrythis
Norman Chan / nchan
Simone Giertz / simonegiertz
Joey Fameli / joeyfameli
Kishore Hari / sciencequiche
Frank Ippolito / frankippolito
Sean Charlesworth / cworthdynamics
Jeremy Williams / jerware
Gunther Kirsch
Ryan Kiser
Thanks for watching!
I use a Lulzbot Mini for printing prototype parts and end-use parts for clients, and it has been extremely reliable. I see others made the same choice. That is also what you pay for IMHO. Printed parts keeps them sharp. If you love to tinker due to occasionally failed prints, definitely go for the really cheap 3D printers out there.
highlanderes you should look at the ces coverage of lulzbot they have an accessory you should pick up. It gives sd card functionality to the mini
Coleman Becker Thanks
We use this in our lab. They are ok, resolution isn't the best but because most of the parts are 3d printed we have been able to design custom parts to make new filaments and dynamic structures.
All this printable spareparts... awesome!
If a part already breaks you cannot print out this part because your printer is broken 😂
Buy two printers. 😁
The nozzle is very easy to change and shouldnt mess up autoleveling since the auto level uses the nozzle to close the circuit when it touches the metal washer. You just void the warranty on the hot end since you are taking it apart. But otherwise its super simple and I change nozzles often, heat up the hot end to 250, use pliers to hold heater block and with a wrench unthread nozzle
Excellent review 👌
ill wait on taz 7
If I had the time I'd strip down my Chinese built i3, cast a frame from epoxy granite and use linear guide rails for the moving parts. Rigidity is everything with machinery.
I love you, 3 years later you're still taking a kid to school. Thank you for telling the auto-didactic machine engineer about mineral casting. I'm literally going to exactly what you described in the coming weeks.
As a manufacture of 2.85 filaments, I feel sad. It seems that this is the only printer with 2.85 extrusion system. I have tons of 2.85 filaments in the warehouse. :P
The ringing is really, really bad....I wish you guys had found a fix for it!
So I got a Form 2 ad before this.....
Maybe if you didn’t print at Mach 1 you wouldn’t have echos
"If you wanna print really big stuff reliably" buy a cr10!
Buy 5 CR-10s instead of one of these. They're acting like they're wowed, but it's not really adding anything. I have access to 2 taz printers and they're not worth $2500 vs a Cr-10
SlothOnTheRocks Sr. Yea maybe 700$ usd for the reliability and it being open source also the nice support
A CR-10 is a hobby printer...
@@rock3tcatU233 What is this then? Same OS and little to none difference. The biggest difference is the autoleveling, which seemingly costs 1000$.
You're complaining about simplistic firmware. This is a reprap machine at heart running good old Marlin. You can get the 1.1.3 ver and have all the bells and whistles in the world imaginable. Change filament? check. Better screen graphics? check. Mutliple languages? check. Also you can use the regular Cura (the latest version is 2.6.2) that runs as well. My only complaint about this machine is the 2.5k price tag,
So Bacically get an Ultimaker 2 or 2+ My modified £200 Monoprice Mini V2 prints a LOT better than this. this is outragously bad. I used to have an Ultimaker 2 few years back when I had more money. that thing was amazing!
Oof. All of the ghosting.
Yes $2500 is just way to much.. I could buy 4 3d printers with a good or better specs..
"Really solidly built..."
That thing looked as sturdy as a pair of rubber crutches.
$2600!!!! With all those shitty 3D printed components, including structural components, are they effen crazy!?!? Yea right. 3D printing is an inherently shitty process that yields shitty results, so $2600 for a machine that makes parts that are slightly less shitty than cheaper units... No way.
I couldn't tell if it was just the desk, or if the gantry was moving all over the place while printing. (But the desk was definitely shaking.) You can see it rocking side to side in the first close up shot.
Holy shit calm down no one cares
Bad printer. Not enclosed, any printer with a moving bed is a waste of time. Look at how rough the bed moves and how badly its shaking the whole table. im sure having a printer bouncing around like its in an earthquake wont impact print quality at all.
I've got one of these, and it's fine. I've observed no difference in print quality between the X and Y axis.
Great printer, I have no issues and I have used Taz 5, Taz6 and mini and they are all fine
Thanks for the review, great job. As for the knife, it is great for removing unneeded filament, but definitely not useful for removing printed parts from the PEI. An over-sized Pipe Wrench works wonders, and should be standard equipment for removing printed parts from the PEI.
I have owned the Taz 6 for nearly a year, and I have printed over 50kg of filament without any problems. I have had to readjust the coupling to allow the extruder print head to make contact for auto-leveling, but other than that, its a fabulous machine. And this fix takes only 2-3 seconds, a total non-issue. Awesome prints and great print area.
You can tether the LulzBot Mini to a raspberry Pie running OctoPrint which runs as a web print server, so you don't have to use it directly with your computer.
I've used it for over a year now and it is great!
/B)
I have the taz5 and newer models evolve in incremental steps. You are amazed how large it is, I wish it was larger. Open source is great, I built my own Flexystruder a few years ago then modified the V2 Dual extruder to print one with flexible on with regular filament .
I'm quite happy with my taz5, although some ABS parts just fell apart on the V2 extruders that I had to reprint/replace.
Would be interesting to see your take on the CR10, I have one and without any mods aside from a LokBuild surface since the stock glass is usually warped, my prints come out just as good if not better than the Ultimaker.
this printer came out a year ago at least, and still sells at $2500?
Remember when on Fridays they would do the guess the 3D printed object?
This machine was very impressive in 2016. Trying to use it today is just painful
There is a change filament option in the menu, but it only shows up when a print is active via sd card. but otherwise i agree with everything said here
Stop using phrases like 'turnkey' if you then have to explain what that means! So annoying.
You do realise there's better on the market for cheaper right?
I have A TAZ 6 and love it. Rock solid. As mentioned it prints right out of the box. Minor assembly. I was up and printing in 30 minutes.
LulzBot has Cura 2 in Beta (V2.6.21)
Lulzbot has really dialed in these printers. No test prints needed. Each head is calibrated. Also they have calibrated the printer for a slew of filaments like the polylite PLA.
-Kurt
How's the auto leveling after 3 years? I love the idea of not having to level the 4 corners.
At 2500 it should make the bloody tea, jesus my tronxy x3a is as good as that
I have had 3 of these, they all ended up or started with bad print quality (horrible banding). Would not recommend (though their support is great)
Norman Chan is the best Tested interviewer... But the worst in being interviewed. Lol
Norm and your team, I'm spoiled by your interviewing skills. You can make just about any review go smoothly and watching others I want to turn off. Keep up the good work!
My goodness...more of this crap...lulzbot is soooo overrated..it’s a beefy totally overpriced kit...yes it’s open source but that’s an old feature...tons of nice cheap reliable printers are open source...yes it’s big..other printers like the CR-10 are bigger and a heck of a lot cheaper...yes it has auto leveling but for $15 and a little tweaking in the firmware any 3D printer can have auto leveling...yes it has interchangeable print heads but they cost 100s of freaking dollars for one!!!!!! it only cost me $60 to upgrade to an E3D and I have several nozzles for it...yes it has a PEI sheet and glass but these are cheap upgrades u can make to ANY 3D printer....yes it does have 3D printed parts on it so u can print new ones..but if I’m spending $2500 on a 3D printer I want it to be made completely out of high quality metal or steel( u get what I mean)..AND OF COURSE YOU HAVE RINGING WITH THEIR HUGE PRINT HEADS!!!! .....this $2500 printer isn’t even enclosed nor does it have a power failure feature...MOST OVERHYPED 3D PRINTER ON THE FACE OF THE EARTH...my Tevo tarantula printed a bench just as good as that one...and it only took me a few tweaks to get it to print that good...save your freaking money people🙄....
We've heard great things. Would love to try one of these with the FormBox.
Hey, tested, Why you don't check the ANet a8 printer ?
because it needs a ton of custom mods to make it a good printer and not a house burning fireball. I started with an anet a8 and after a while and a ton of work i turned it into a "good" printer but it is near impossible to make it a Reliable printer. Upgraded to the cr10. never looked back.
Thomas Kloppholz because they don’t like loosing all of there stuff in a fire
They're a well known brand, and known to be decent. However I think the price is a little up there. Design wise, it'd be better to change the nozzle for yourself (10 min work + $10-20 for a nice nozzle). The replace the whole extruder system instead is way too expensive and wasteful. I'll stick with my Wanhao Duplicator i3 and Duplicator 6 thanks. Parts are cheap and reasonable, and you work on it yourself so you know your own printer.
I have a few projects that are at the limits of my flashforge dreamer and the taz 6 was my dream upgrade, but it's just too much money. As it's open sourced are there plans online to make my own version ?
First, I think Tested is great. Thanks Norm and Shaun. However, I worry about, amongst other things, a diverging gap between media(including Tested) promoted 'affordable' goods and reality affordable goods. What's the average income of Tested viewers? Can people afford this 'consumer' item you are promoting? Can you, Norm, Shaun? What about the other stuff you review? It's not good for the psyche to have a carrot dangling in front our whole lives. Our parents didn't have to deal with it, why should we?
It's unfortunate that many of the top comments are complaining about the price. The "open source" (meaning the Free Software philosophy) licenses mean that you can get the software for free and that the plans and code are available publicly. As a result, you can actually build this yourself, as well as make changes to the design, and share those changes too.
You're definitely paying a premium for the libre development process here, but, from what I've seen, these printers are especially good in production environments where consistency is the most important factor. There are smaller machines, there are higher-resolution machines, and there are faster machines. But these things just keep printing for a long-ass time.
I can't believe they got voice audio without picking up the TAZ as it prints between them. We've got a TAZ 6 in our lab, and we've had a few problems with non-adherence and filament getting stuck.
Sounds like a $500 printer NOT $2500... Flaky software, 3d printed parts, so so build... NOT FOR ME !!!!
Eeeh, I immediately lost interest at $2500.00. If you review an affordable printer let me know. even a $500.00 one would be more realistic than this.
Chinese companies are churning out Prussa 3 knock offs for $170 & you get the exact same print quality.
after owning a lulzbot for ~2 years using regularly: Only problem i've had is brittle filament breaking, which isn't the printers fault
Absolutely one of the worst company names ever. It actually makes me kinda mad. ..and obviously the price is absurd.
You know, for a one day build project you could get Adam to build the ultimate build surface for 3D printers -eliminating all the getting the spool wire to stick for the first layer 🤔
for 2500 dollars.. its not worth it, because 50% of the printer is 3d printed. thats why its a LULz
most important question, is it worth $3000?
Not a fan of these printers, spent 6 months using 3 of them almost daily. An Ultimaker cost isn't so different to not just buy one of those and get a way better product.
not everyone agrees on the product, but video-wise this was great guys. i enjoyed Sean's enthusiasm for the subject and as in depth as i wanted it to be. thanks guys
Some questions about the printed parts of the printer. If it's your only printer how can you print a replacement part if one breaks? If the print can happen even with the busted part is it even worth replacing the bad part? I suppose the expectation is you can ask a friend to print or pay for a print online.
I have a Luzbot Taz 6 it seems to be out of square for the second time not impressed considering its $2500.
I will stick with my printrbot thankyou with zero ringing out of the box and $1500 less.
Getting this shit to print a girlfriend.
For nearly $3000.00 USD it better wipe my boogers away. LOL
Guys! Get a grip! Don't use inches as a measurement, especially not when talking about 3D printers!
The're mixing imperial with metric units. Print bed in inches - one cubic foot print volume - and the filament is metric. Even Marlin has issues with imperial units.
This is an american machine. Seriously go look at the specs they put everything in inches. I prefer the metric system when printing as well but for some reason Lulzbot decided to go imperial.
EDIT: I'm wrong. I could have sworn they did that on the lulzbot site. The only reason I can think Tested gave Imperial measurements is because they know they have a large US viewer base and thought maybe putting it in inches would be easier for those not into 3d printing to understand? maybe?
Even though they have an American viewer base the should use metric, they can add imperial units onscreen in editing. The imperial system is outdated and imprecise and doesn't make any sense at all in a modern society xD but hey, then again, the united states is a third world country and not a modern society anyway xD (don't get butthurt if you're an us citizen :P )
Stop whining.
Quit fucking bitching. I don't go over to the British channels and all them to put their measurements in USCS units.I don't go to British channels and tell them to stop using stones to describe their weight because it's "outdated."
The imperial/USC system is what is used in America... On an American TH-cam channel,,,, about an American made product.... That you're watching on an American platform (TH-cam/MS Windows)... Hosted by Americans... Talking to a largely American audience... Need I continue.
I have been drooling over this printer for the last 2 months. It and the BCN Sigma R17. The new IDEX is pretty sweet as well but those 2 make me seriously consider buying one on my credit card. But my CR-10 works fine and hell if I wanted I could make a Taz 6 clone.
EDIT: but after watching this I am seeing the quality and thinking its not that great. I mean its great compared to a lot of printers but my cr-10 does better and at 1/5th the price. Hmmm but the simple upgrades for the Taz 6 still makes me want it.
large bed = lots of weight. so ringing unless you print slower just like cr-10 or any other. that extruder is super beefy looking too. one reason an MK2 is decent is it's a thick PCB with PEI. it's a smaller surface AND it also has no glass.
Too bad it has that ghosting. I was surprised about that, i did not expect it at this pricepoint.
Tested, sometimes you just need to call shit for what it actually is. Compared to whats on the market now, these printers are nowhere close to 2500$ in quality and features. You can get BETTER prints off of a 500$ printer, with more features. Support can be found on the internet for free.
r1tual how much time are you going to spend building your 500 printer and modifying it?
Look at punished props video on cheap 3d printer.
What kind of joke is comparing all the engineering-grade 3D printers with the shitty non-reliable CR-10, be serious, men! The thing when you take a reliable machine for doing useless figurines and ornaments things is exactly you give entrance to any other crappy machine to compare it and everyone comes with the comment "I can buy (a ridiculous number) of CR10 and get same reliability". Bullshit, men! If anyone would make videos of that 3D printers doing useful end use parts all of us will notice the true capabilities and reliabilities of these true-engineering machines (TAZ 6) and leave alone the crappy machines (CR10) for doing useless things.
José Guerrero the CR-10 blew me away with its quality...idk what your talking about...
the table is wobbly af
These Printers are the best we have used for FDM and FFF! We have a hive of Taz 6 printers in Broomfield, CO and we are running them 24-7. The part quality is amazing - we print prototypes and end-use parts for professional clients with this printer.
The more "Tested" uses this printer and the Mini, the more they will realize a few of their negative bullet points are actually positive aspects of a professional printer. I bet the Taz 6 becomes the workhorse FFF printer in that lab!
Great video review Sean and Norm! Cheers!
How do you find the auto leveling for it? I'm really interested in not having to level 4 corners every print. It's my huge pet peeve of laziness.
CR-10 guys. You could buy a cr10S that has a 500x500x500mm bed for 1k.
Be careful with cheaper machines, they use lower quality stepper motors and lower grade powersupply, etc... Definitely a decent machine for 1k, but then I would just get a Prusa.... or save the $$$ and buy a Taz 6... .
Please review the Prussa i3 MK2S
Caleb King no need there are reviews all over youtube
So much ringging on the prints... and the prize tag... This is crazy.
I commented 14th. Like your vids
I have one and I love it. One thing I really like is the modular print head. That was one of the reasons I chose the Taz because it has some future proofing for if i ever need to print with soluble or flexy filament. The dual extruder has been a bit of a pain and it does not play nice with Simplify 3d
Holden Greene for 300-400$ no thanks
3D printed parts on a 2500 machine is unacceptable in my opinion. But maybe the market was that much different in 2017.
Danfga2 no it wasn’t the prusa mk2 maybe the mk2S was out for 750
Just say what you think 😂😂
"It does a great job but it's cheaply made"
Nice vid
For what it can do and how it is built is quite affordable
great review, ive been wanting in the printing world, i will check this guy out!
Great review, I'd love to see a follow up with the parts you have printed from both types of printers with a layer of primer to see how good they look
I see it does a great job printing...but $2500. Why is it so expensive, is it the name or the parts?
Name it should be 900-1000$ even with the name
Is that a They Might Be Giants T-shitrt!?!?!?!
This is waaay too expensive for the lack of refinement. You can get a much better printer for that price.
WHAT PRINTER DO YOU RECOMMEND?
AB Design prusa mk3s 750 kit 1000 Assembled or CR 10 and if you’re looking for resin Elegoo mars for cheap under $200 and the peopoly phason
Got one of these and I love it. And there is a filiment change on the printer
the quality between a printer from 500$ and this printer is almost the same... the price for this printer is much to high!!
My cr-10s prints better than this.
2500 for that, lol. You can buy a CR-10S, mod the hell out of it and put on 24K gold plating and still have a lot of cash left.
So basically buy an ultimaker....
My school just got 3 of these I'm so excited.
Stupid question but, could I use a 3D scanner to scan a model part (e.g. a Gundam model part) and then edit said part and use a 3D printer to print edited part and that part still work on the model kit? Sorry if this question is a bit long and confusing but I don't know how else to ask this question. I'd appreciate any help you guys can give
Short answer yes. Long answer, unless you have done it before you are going to spend 100+ hours cleaning the scan for all the dropped surface segments, stitching them together and then getting the surface to look right. It is honestly almost always quicker to just do the CAD up yourself.
Timothy Anderson Thanks, would it be a little bit easier just to use it for duplication of parts
$2,500.00 USD !!!
I only have $390USD to buy the Creality CR-10!!
maybe look at a Wanhao Duplicator i3 v2 or plus.
Pre-Assembled steel frame printer, heated bed, lcd, sd card, etc... $300(v2)-$400(plus).
But that is the difference between buying from an American made printer, with great customer support vs Chinese made with no customer support and less acountable safety practices.
Creality 3D have absolutely hit the nail on the head with there V-slot 3D printers, that mostly use the same parts. it keeps production dirt cheap, and less lines to have to do quality control on, and means that they are unlikely to run out of items (i think all there printers use the same hot end, so they can order in bulk!) but there are Quality issues. leaving the laser cutting protective paper on pieces, not filing off rough pieces from when the cut the V-slots.
still i have a Creality 3D ender-2 (and an ultimaker) and oh holy wow, it took some time, but its amazing!
rjc0234 paying 1800$ for “better support” is not worth it
my cr 10s is 2 years old and does the same job. thanks but no thanks
Traian Rusanescu your cr-10 has bed leveling out of the box, but I doo agree It should be 700-900$
not worth $2500
$2500 I'll pass
When it rains, it snows.
Bugger! $5,000. It would be nice to see a review of something affordable for animators moving to 3d printing for stop-motion character animation.
Look at the Creality Ender 3 or the CR20.
Ni9a Szeven look at resin for detailed models
Call me Kywoo 3D, not bad choice
"ridiculously cheap" 37$ a Kg with how is that cheap
Satchel Sieniewicz that’s the standard even 9 months later
two dudes arguing
Boring
GeorgeFitton Don't use this account what the video or the printer?
Gx,.
Hello
Excellent review
All the the 3-D printed parts are the first thing I noticed. That drives up production costs yeah? Its great on one hand because you know if you needed to 3-D print a part for it, it would work. Seems excessive.
Injection molding is significantly more expensive. Steel molds don't come cheap.
Too simplistic to say it's more expensive. For one part 3D printer wins. For one million parts injection molding wins.
I can see that. But what about the time spent of 3-D printing all of those parts? I suppose these are made to order though.
They have over 100 of their own printers at their print farm cranking out printer parts, which no doubt have been heavily optimized for print time and application. Since the printers are their own design, it's fair to say they're building and operating them at-cost, rather than at MSRP. If they started out with the intention of mass-producing printers (exceeding, say, 10,000 units at minimum) and the capital to invest, they could have opted for injection molded parts. It's not an easy switch now, though, because every single part that is 3D printed currently would have to be redesigned, either partially or entirely, for injection molding. Another advantage of 3D printing the components is the ability to adjust the design of parts for free, barring design time. The same change on a molded part requires re-machining the tool (either partially if the change is tool-safe or entirely if it isn't) and potentially re-tuning the injection molder or running mold flow analysis if the change is significant. Then there's the aspect of relying upon a third party to maintain quality, and the time it takes to track down issues and solve them. I could go on, but in this situation there are many reasons 3D printed parts have an advantage over molded ones.
Ethan's reply emphasizes that since Lulzbot uses their own product as a key part of production it should really motivate them to design for reliability.
2500. lol...... Sell many at that price point?
Worth every cent. Been using it for a week or two. Never had a problem and had it up and running in about 10 minutes. Also, hundreds are shipped out each half-a-month. (Written in a press-release.) Ergo by doing simple math. (2500*24)*100= $6000000 However, this does not include the extra toolheads that Lulzbot produces and sells with each printer. Therefore, for the pricepoint, amount of people who use them. (Including companies such as NASA, Waterpik etc. These printers are quite profitable and sell well. Probably should have done some research before writing that. :/
Not to mention the filament that people will buy with the printer. (Enclosures as well.)
doo the pursa!
Maximus Nye there are so many reviews already
Uh no. 3mm is notoriously hard to do Bowden with because of it's stiffness.