Thanks for documenting your pushing the envelope. In terms of HDU. I too struggle with painting efficiently. I and my wife enjoy your TH-cam channel. Have a great one
I've recently started working with HDU Also. My first project was in black, like yours. Mine went on fine AFTER I primed it. What I noticed was that after almost completing my sign, I touched up the black in areas, and it stuck out like a sore thumb. I'm hoping when I put a clear coat on it, that the paint differences won't be noticeable. I'll keep you posted. By the way, I used oramask on it and it worked just fine when peeling it away.
The matte finish was not as noticeable as the gloss when I did the touch-ups. But the peeling was minimal with the matte paint as well. Not sure if I'm 100% sold on the latex, I guess everything has it's place.
I've been using Duna for years and have never had a problem with it warping. I imagine if you put 10 coats of paint on the front and 3 coats on the back it could cause a larger sign to warp some but not enough to be a problem.
Really nice work. I was watching the end and have a suggestion that might help with bringing out the details in the thistles. Have you thought of lightly dry brushing a contrasting color over the highlights in the thistles? Or waybe a light wash in a contrasting color?
@@TheGilbert805 I have but your CNC better be spot on so both sides line up and I used 1.5" for that sign. You can do 2 - 1" thick HDU and glue them together as well. Generally for V Carving I let the software determine the depth, thicker/wider elements will cut deeper so I find the happy medium of about 1/8"-3/16" deep.
Thank you so much for the helpful info. I got a small cnc to do hobby work but then word quickly spread and now I find myself taking the odd job, this time it's a sign for a local shop. I'm learning as I go. Luckily I have about 20 years as a cad designer so I have been around cnc just very new to programing and all the other non computer stuff.
@@TheGilbert805 Not a problem, I just have a Shapeoko XXL 30" X 30" max cutting area. There is $$$ in those types of signage, don't sell yourself short on those jobs! Have any other questions let me know!
Ii get the best finish using a 3/8 inch nap roller - not foam rollers. Also I think you spent too much time rolling areas you had already rolled and that tends to pick up paint that is already starting to flow out and dry. Just quickly roll and get enough paint on to cover, then go back and roll with no weight on the roller, going in one direction only, and that will remove bubbles and smooth it. If the wind catches the sign and puts any twist on it, those brackets may break off a corner of the sign. Better would be a strip along both edges entirely, with 3 or 4 lag screws each side.
Thanks for documenting your pushing the envelope. In terms of HDU. I too struggle with painting efficiently. I and my wife enjoy your TH-cam channel. Have a great one
Thank you for watching! Nothing ventured nothing gained, right!
Looks great. Thanks for taking the time and explaining as you go
Not that I'm 100% correct on my process, but glad to help!
I've recently started working with HDU Also. My first project was in black, like yours. Mine went on fine AFTER I primed it. What I noticed was that after almost completing my sign, I touched up the black in areas, and it stuck out like a sore thumb. I'm hoping when I put a clear coat on it, that the paint differences won't be noticeable. I'll keep you posted. By the way, I used oramask on it and it worked just fine when peeling it away.
The matte finish was not as noticeable as the gloss when I did the touch-ups. But the peeling was minimal with the matte paint as well. Not sure if I'm 100% sold on the latex, I guess everything has it's place.
I've been using Duna for years and have never had a problem with it warping. I imagine if you put 10 coats of paint on the front and 3 coats on the back it could cause a larger sign to warp some but not enough to be a problem.
Thank you for that, not sure what to expect with this one.
Really nice work. I was watching the end and have a suggestion that might help with bringing out the details in the thistles. Have you thought of lightly dry brushing a contrasting color over the highlights in the thistles? Or waybe a light wash in a contrasting color?
Thanks for the tip!
What are you using to paint the final lettering coat? Is it an airbrush?
Yes, it was an air brush
What did you use for stencil material? Sorry if I missed it in the video
Avery SF 100-231-S 1829S Yellow paint Mask
Great video!, What kind of install brackets did you use at the end?
Those were from Metal Craft Industries out of FL, great company to work with!
Thanks. Do you ever do 2 sided signs out of 2" HDU? How deep do you usually go to make the lettering stand proud?
@@TheGilbert805 I have but your CNC better be spot on so both sides line up and I used 1.5" for that sign. You can do 2 - 1" thick HDU and glue them together as well. Generally for V Carving I let the software determine the depth, thicker/wider elements will cut deeper so I find the happy medium of about 1/8"-3/16" deep.
Thank you so much for the helpful info. I got a small cnc to do hobby work but then word quickly spread and now I find myself taking the odd job, this time it's a sign for a local shop. I'm learning as I go. Luckily I have about 20 years as a cad designer so I have been around cnc just very new to programing and all the other non computer stuff.
@@TheGilbert805 Not a problem, I just have a Shapeoko XXL 30" X 30" max cutting area. There is $$$ in those types of signage, don't sell yourself short on those jobs! Have any other questions let me know!
Never be afraid of using a paint tray. Just line it with premask.
Awesome tip, thank you Tim!
Ii get the best finish using a 3/8 inch nap roller - not foam rollers. Also I think you spent too much time rolling areas you had already rolled and that tends to pick up paint that is already starting to flow out and dry. Just quickly roll and get enough paint on to cover, then go back and roll with no weight on the roller, going in one direction only, and that will remove bubbles and smooth it. If the wind catches the sign and puts any twist on it, those brackets may break off a corner of the sign. Better would be a strip along both edges entirely, with 3 or 4 lag screws each side.
Awesome thanks for the tips!