I got an old Montgomery Ward's power Kraft wet stone sharpener from 1958 at a garage sale for $40 complete with motor. The stone was out of round and not flat across the face. I got a diamond 4 1/2 disc and my grinder and this worked great at getting it round and flat. With water it made a heck of a mess compared to doing it dry. My stone turns away from you just like this big stone here in the video. I've got allot of old wood working machines from the 40s and 50s by craftsman and Montgomery Ward's that still work great.
It was a video that I enjoyed watching, I have a recommendation for you, it would be much better if you make a fixed water tank under it. In my country, they do so.
Thanks for the comment. I have heard both sides. I have had a plastic bath beneath it before and it keeps the stone clean, this works well. But others have told me that I should have a drip of water from above, and I have tried this too, if the drip is slow enough it builds up a layer of abrasive slurry on the stone and honestly, I can't tell if there is a difference. I guess if you have a tradition then follow it, it may be appropriate for the type of natural stone. But without that tradition experimentation is good!
Make sure the tank can be drained in the event of freezing weather ice formation may crack the stone my original has an arm from which a water drip can be mounted
This stone is very soft, it wears quite easily so a piece of iron will clean it to a flat surface. and it did. You can wear a groove in it quite easily,
It is hard to say! In terms of roughness it is probably in the mid 100s, maybe 6-800. But in terms of ability to cut it is quite soft. It can handle older carbon steels, "cast steel" chisels and older tools where a hard tool iron or steel was forged to a softer backing. But it struggles with high speed steels. It will grind them, but very slowly. It is quite a soft stone too, reminding me of Japanese water stones, what I mean is that if you try to gouge into it even mild steel would cut into it. It is nothing like the Arkansas stones that I have seen. they were all much smoother.
That is a lot of mass that doesn't want to stop. When grinding your knife, axe, or other edged tool, the edge could bite into the stone while sharpening and suddenly be pulled from your grip and could seriously injure you (like your groin or legs). It's best to have the stone moving away from you and grind so the edge is pulled along the stone rather than pushing toward it. Really the direction of grind is most important. The stone turning toward you or away is more a personal call, depending on what point if view that you want on your workpiece, but away from you is always safest.
Partially because it's relatively small and light that you can maintain a grip on the workpiece if it does grab, and along with a toolrest, you're working the front of the stone rather than the top area. If it grabs it is being directed down and not directly toward you. Its all about what the stone can do to the tool versus what you can do to the tool. Its like trying to stop a person walking with your arms versus trying to stop a car with your arms. You have much better chances with one than the other.
@@bootsowenuse water.. Stone can spin either way depending the work.. Away from you😂 is for grinding with the peice pulled into the incomming wheel... towards more for sharpening with the peice edge first sliced on the wheel
Hi Mike, no it's a belt drive with a TDA1085c speed controller on it. mostly washing machine parts. Works very well. I'll have to make another video of it!
For the love of GOD!! Put a bucket of water underneath. Get a Tormek truing tool, TT-50,make a Tormek stand, and then you have something useful.... you are so close. It hurts my eyes to see you mud sharpen your tools. buy som e cheap diamond paltes, and level your grit to your stone. you are welcome
I got an old Montgomery Ward's power Kraft wet stone sharpener from 1958 at a garage sale for $40 complete with motor. The stone was out of round and not flat across the face. I got a diamond 4 1/2 disc and my grinder and this worked great at getting it round and flat. With water it made a heck of a mess compared to doing it dry. My stone turns away from you just like this big stone here in the video. I've got allot of old wood working machines from the 40s and 50s by craftsman and Montgomery Ward's that still work great.
Very good to see the stone rotating at a proper speed.
Also I surprised you weren't running water on that
I wouldn't use water with the wiring job on that motor..⚡⚡⚡⚡⚡
Water would sure keep the dust down.
It was a video that I enjoyed watching, I have a recommendation for you, it would be much better if you make a fixed water tank under it. In my country, they do so.
Thanks for the comment. I have heard both sides. I have had a plastic bath beneath it before and it keeps the stone clean, this works well. But others have told me that I should have a drip of water from above, and I have tried this too, if the drip is slow enough it builds up a layer of abrasive slurry on the stone and honestly, I can't tell if there is a difference. I guess if you have a tradition then follow it, it may be appropriate for the type of natural stone. But without that tradition experimentation is good!
Make sure the tank can be drained in the event of freezing weather ice formation may crack the stone my original has an arm from which a water drip can be mounted
Great idea but without a guide how do you managing flatness what a great Stone if you ever analyze different size? Very nice setup though well done
This stone is very soft, it wears quite easily so a piece of iron will clean it to a flat surface. and it did. You can wear a groove in it quite easily,
Did you ever make a video of how you made the grindstone apparatus?
Nope
Nice👍👍👍👍
I would just use a diamond plate on it while it rotates.
You should make a dripped for it.
My plan exactly, took me ages to find something like this! What disk do you reckomend for the angle grinder?
Cheap diamond, but this stone is pretty soft
How would you rate the 'grit' of the stone in comparison to say a water stone or an Arkansas stone? Or just any stone you've used previously
It is hard to say! In terms of roughness it is probably in the mid 100s, maybe 6-800. But in terms of ability to cut it is quite soft. It can handle older carbon steels, "cast steel" chisels and older tools where a hard tool iron or steel was forged to a softer backing. But it struggles with high speed steels. It will grind them, but very slowly. It is quite a soft stone too, reminding me of Japanese water stones, what I mean is that if you try to gouge into it even mild steel would cut into it. It is nothing like the Arkansas stones that I have seen. they were all much smoother.
@@bootsowen that's really informative thanks mate, I couldn't find anything on any forums about it!
My man u could have use a cheap waterstone for flattening it way more efficient and youre supposed to use water with it 😂
Why is the wheel spinning away from you?
Why not
bootsowen I usually see tools sharpened by going towards the blade, not away from the blade. Just curious if there is any difference.
That is a lot of mass that doesn't want to stop. When grinding your knife, axe, or other edged tool, the edge could bite into the stone while sharpening and suddenly be pulled from your grip and could seriously injure you (like your groin or legs). It's best to have the stone moving away from you and grind so the edge is pulled along the stone rather than pushing toward it. Really the direction of grind is most important. The stone turning toward you or away is more a personal call, depending on what point if view that you want on your workpiece, but away from you is always safest.
Why do all the bench grinders turn towards the user then? Against your best advice.
Partially because it's relatively small and light that you can maintain a grip on the workpiece if it does grab, and along with a toolrest, you're working the front of the stone rather than the top area. If it grabs it is being directed down and not directly toward you. Its all about what the stone can do to the tool versus what you can do to the tool. Its like trying to stop a person walking with your arms versus trying to stop a car with your arms. You have much better chances with one than the other.
Dude said fuck editing for time!!!
The stone is supposed to be spinning towards you, not away from you. Also should be using water 💦 on the stone.
I don’t think it matters, there are benefits to each direction.
@@bootsowenuse water.. Stone can spin either way depending the work.. Away from you😂 is for grinding with the peice pulled into the incomming wheel... towards more for sharpening with the peice edge first sliced on the wheel
@@bootsowenthank you, there are.
Great job Owen. Is the grindstone friction driven?👍👍👍
Hi Mike, no it's a belt drive with a TDA1085c speed controller on it. mostly washing machine parts. Works very well. I'll have to make another video of it!
Imagine hand carving that with a hammer and chisel 100yrs ago, then some chap turns up next to you with an electric grinder!
The other option is just to scrape it back with a big bar. I thought the diamond wheel would be gentler on it.
lol imagine it on 240v, would have a lot of momentum.
it is on 240v, running through a regulator.
@@bootsowen 240v unregulated I mean, super speed!
For the love of GOD!! Put a bucket of water underneath. Get a Tormek truing tool, TT-50,make a Tormek stand, and then you have something useful.... you are so close. It hurts my eyes to see you mud sharpen your tools. buy som e cheap diamond paltes, and level your grit to your stone. you are welcome
I think you need to explain more clearly, I can't follow you, maybe you have made a video of what you describe?