This is by far the best explanation. Other catch can videos are all half baked and doesn't explain. Tuners and car makers want to keep catch can installation closely guarded secret.
Best explaination I've found so far and I've been looking a long time never quite feeling all information was clear, now it is, thank you. It's also addressed problems I've had following other so called explanations.
10/10 explanation, had a "shadow cam" issue due to the pcv being hooked up to a catch with a filter ontop, cheers for helping explain that its a closed system car preformed much better after the fix
Completly blowed my mind 😆😆😆 I have one question, the oil catch can to vent the intake won't do anything, right? Because if on the oil catch can, the air can't flow from out (atmosphere) to inside the can and go the intake, it won't work 😅😅😅
Looks good, I've been running catch cans on my higher mileage cars since the 80s.the only reason for a pcv valve,was to stop the use of draft tubes,from the valve cover to the road.now everything is pretty much a closed pcv system. I use the same thing as u but I put marbles in the bottom, and I put it in between pcv and throttle body.
yah im tune lap3 and vent off the top, its been like this for at least 2 years w. a dual inlet catch can. But as of last week am seeing a lil oil leak off the top. this helped me alot to avoid problems ty good sir.
Love your presentation..logical. upon watching it many times, pops out in my mind what will happen to the catch cans when they get pressurized? Keep it goin...this is very educational..tnx
This was a great tutorial for explaining how different setups work so I could choose which one would be best for the tune of my car. THANKS! Very insightful.
Another fantastic video by KDM Tuners!!! It is interesting you brought up that last point about someone mentioning an interference with the pressure and BOV, etc. There is sooooo much false information going around on a daily basis. With that said, I like the idea of having videos that clear up some of the most common misinformation, whether it's tied in to your current install video setup or even its own series/topic down the road. Either way, great work, guys! I look forward to these every week!!!!!!
Excellent information video on PVC / venting pressure. On a small block chevy application with two valve cover vent if i was understanding you correctly 1). on the pvc valve side i will direct that into the catch can breather and the out line will go down to a bung welded 45 degrees into the flow of exhaust. 2). plug the manifold line and the other side will just be breather at the valve cover?
idk about this engine in particular but most pcv valves are one way check valves so explain to me how the crank case pulls fresh air into it from the intake it should use the slight vacuum to pull the oil misted air out of the crank case and reburn it so put a catch can inline to seperate the oil from the air so clean air enters the intake and the oilly mist doesn't lower your octane rating or cause carbon build up
So, if I understood correctly, the ideal way to get this done is: 3-port catch can into which the intake valve and positive combustion valve (both sides) hoses will go into and vent to atmosphere while using the vented cap (whether with filter or with 45 degree elbow to an air-oil separator - also vented to atmosphere? I'm going to wait and get your system as opposed to a two-can system.
I just bought some crc intake valve and turbo cleaner. Do you have any tips on the easiest way to apply it to the throttle body? Could i spray some in to the hose that leads to the intake manifold? Thanks for all your hard work! Keep it up
There's quite a few videos on the use of CRC Top End cleaner and would suggest to follow the instructions on the can. Mainly you just spray the entire can in SHORT BURSTS slightly in front (1/4in.-1/2in.) of the throttle body but AFTER the maf sensor (mass air flow). This is to be done after the car has been allowed to warm up, while running, and gas pedal intially depressed to hold rpms around 1500-2000 and after just enough gas to keep from stalling due to leaning out the fuel mixture slightly. After the can is emptied, as per instructions, it's just a matter of turning off the engine to "hot soak" giving the cleaner time to work it's magic, then taking a safe but spirited drive on a highway and a little bit of stop n' go in the city. This aids cleaning out engine and allows time for the computer to adjust itself to any changes from the cleaning. Just don't spray the CRC in front of the MAF sensor as it can cause damage to the sensitive electronics. This type of cleaning is suggested to be done before each oil change on high mileage GDI Engine cars or even as a preventative step on newer cars. Since the fuel injectors are not above the intake valves on a GDI engine and gas cannot aid in keeping the valves clean, thus leading to more carbon build up on the intake side. An oil change is also highly recommended after this procedure as some of the cleaner can sneak past the piston rings into your oil, not a huge issues but has the potential to dirty up your oil more or even thin it out a bit. In some rare cases,people have reported their vehicle throwing a code for "lean fuel" after the use of this product, so you might need to have the code cleared. Which could be $20-$30. I would suggest running a fuel injector cleaner before the intake cleaner procedure for atleast a full tanks worth of fuel just to make sure the injectors are free and clear of any crud, it won't help clean the intake side but it may prevent a code popping up from a dirty injector coupled with spraying cleaner into your intake. GDI engines getting dirty like they do is a big reason many people recommend installing an oil catch can as a way to lessen the nonsense going back into their engines, but it requires maintence in the form of monitoring the level of fluid/emptying so the device itself doesn't become or cause worse issues than a dirty intake. Not all but most, of people have a hard enough time doing proper PM (preventative maintence) on their cars anyway, for whatever reason. So this mod is mostly a unneeded headache to most since newer cars actively compensate for dirty components by self adjusting the parameters of the engine, to a point. ( ie. electronic throttle bodies adjusting trim to alter air to fuel ratios based off an array of sensors) This happens daily while simply driving the vehicle by way of the computer constantly running diagnostics on itself, but it also has a potential for more stuff to break or cause other stuff to break. Eventually the intake manifold could do with being removed and throughly cleaned, some cars (BMWs) supposedly have a service recommendation at a certain mileage to have the intake/valves walnut blasted to clean off any carbon deposits and that 'ish aint anywhere cheap to have done or gain any performance aside from a reliability stand point. Like most things, pros and cons. Sorry for the long reply, hope this helps you or anyone who reads it. 😎👉👉
I installed One close catch can after the bvc to intake it works great negative pressure in the cam case is it better than positive ? I think this work is over done
Your PCV system is absurdly complicated. On turbo cars, it's easier to install your catch can from the valve cover vent to the turbo intake/ filter side. The suction from the turbo creates a natural vacuum on the crankcase. On big turbo cars like yours, you're going to have to modify the baffling system to your valve cover/ PCV to accept bigger lines for more blow by. When you have a good oil separator, it don't have to be vented.
I have a radium pcv/catch can and I'm getting oil out my air cone. It's a destroked brian crower cammed big bore out out e.j 2.5 with a 68 mm borg Warner efi with a trial wastegate on e85 in my fully swapped 1999 subaru impreza rs. Why is it doing that?
@@ericexplorationunknown9365 thats because there is no vacuum between the filter and the turbo. A standard or correct filter for an engine will create that vacuum.
You say your line under the oil cap was added and that stopped adding oil to the left of the two dual. It would seem as if you nullified the PCV under the foam and used a simple industrial air/oil separator in place of the left unit. The boosted side of the valve cover (intake) was over pressurizing your oil seals on your valves and the smaller Mishittymoto A/O separator baffles (Scamazon specials for $18) were not keeping up with the pressure. Obtaining a larger volume A/O separator would have prevented you from adding another $6 separator. Please explain how I misunderstood.
Hi! Question: Do you have a check valve inline from the pcv side? So it will look like: valve cover, hose, check valve, hose then to the can, hose then to intake manifold. Or would you put a check valve after the can, followed by a hose then into the intake manifold? Or is a check valve still needed when doing an external pcv? Thanks in advance!
Thanks for the detail video mate. It cleared the tons of confusion and setup we see in the car scene. My question: Im using an external iac valve with the iac in coming from the air intake and the iac out going to the manifold. I have a tee joint in between the air intake which attaches to the outgoing tube from the oil catch (in coming from pcv valve) to keep the vacuum. Can i join the catch can vacuum tube with the tube from iac out into the manifold instead? My reason being if there is any blow by oil and dirt, it wont clog the iac valve which can reduce the efficiency. Any ideas?
This is probably a dumb question, but i havent found an answer anywhere, how did you hookup an AN fitting to the PCV valve? Is the valve itself completely different?
Good job on most of this!! Email me direct and will give you better explanations to help you. As your engine is turbo charged, the intake manifold only provides evacuation vacuum at idle or deceleration. Any time the turbo is spooling up it makes boost pressure. So you need another secondary suction source so no pressure can ever build to begin with. You do not want ANY venting. Venting is technology that was outdated in the 60's and 70's. SO, what you need first, is check valves in both outlets of a dual outlet can. And the can your using only traps a small amount of the oil, look at one of the 95% effective dual valve systems with cleanside separator. That way it uses IM vacuum when no boost is present, and use venturi effect generated vacuum when in boost so ALL the time suction is pulled. This aids in ring seal and stability and reduces ring flutter blowby. Simply emulating a belt driven vacuum pump. Your using the exhaust that due to pulses will still allow pressure, unless you use an header evac valve. But these only work with no mufflers or exhaust pipes. Again, your on the right track but you need to totally emulate this. Here is a video of a dyno with venting and pulling suction. th-cam.com/video/-7bGshirEKI/w-d-xo.html But email me and will guide you further as your 80% their. Good job!!! Oh, and using a Mishi can only traps around 30-40%. The rest is still ingested. Will share all with you.
Thanks for sharing this. I have a question regarding the Jeep 4.0 inline six (2001) this model has a vent on top of the front of the valve cover and a valve on top of the back of the valve cover (near the firewall) Some call the front vent PCV and back vent CCV, others tell you that the 4.0 has only CCV as in closed crank ventilation that is a remnant from the WWII jeeps. (close system could witstand deeper water crossings) There are a lot of video's about mounting an oil catch can. There are people that swear it needs to be connected to the vent on top of the front of the valve cover, others will advise you to put it on the on the back vent on top of of the valve cover. What would you advice? Thanks my friend.
I have a 2004 Dodge Ram 1500 5.7l with a cold air intake, oil catch can , upgrade throttle body, upgraded plugs and wires, stage 2 chip. I have found out that I can add a vent I think I may have to add it to the cap but where can I get one or how do I do it?
Would one of these vented caps fit a 3.3L KIA Stinger? I have catch cans on both sides of of the engine but I can smell oil after driving hard telling me I'm pushing oil out of something. Would prefer not to pressurize my crank case and this seems like an easy solution.
My TT Mitsubishi GTO (aka 3000GT) smokes on deceleration only after boost. Is that due to the PCV system (not vented) or due to the turbo seals leaking? I have recently rebuilt the turbos, but the problem is still there. I had also installed a two-port oil catch can between the rear valve cover and the intake manifold, but the problem was still present and the can did not collect any oil for two years... The motor was replaced with a rebuilt one four years ago. What is the most probable cause for the smoke?
Is the initial set up, i.e the PCV catch can loop, and the vented can okay for an NA engine, or will I need a second vent? I figure since I'm not running as much horsepower as a turbo, and only driving on the street, my cans won't fill up as quick. My main concern is engine health so I'm after optimal crankcase pressure/vacuum and a minimal recycling of blow-by gasses.
I have a 08 Silverado 5.3L with 70mm turbo. I bought it already boosted but no catch can. The guy told me it needed one , but not that it was crucial. Anyhow. I've watched several videos but none have shown me exactly how to install it. I did install but I'd like to know your take on proper installation and which line goes on inflow side of can & which goes on outflow side and should it have a breather can or no. Mine can with cap & breather. I put breather on but its letting sum oil residue blow threw it & making a mess. Noting serious just potentially.
This sounds oddly specific to performance/non-naturally aspirated vehicles. Most cars now a days don't vent into the atmosphere, and would cause a vacuum leak. From what I could tell in your video, you have two cans, one setup how most folks would do it (from the crankcase to the PCV, from the PCV to the OCC, from the OCC to the (upper) intake manifold). Then you have another OCC from the Valve Cover to OCC, and OCC vents from there. It's most likely my inexperience, but I've never seen a system where the valve cover connects directly to the air intake, and flushes the valve cover with fresh air. I also don't understand why there wouldn't be a check valve on the valve cover to avoid blowby into the intake. I'm assuming this is turbo specific?
Did your fuel trims change when you installed this setup? I have turbocharged my car and have a sealed/baffled OCC - PCV goes to catch can inlet, catch can outlet goes to manifold. I have a breather on the valve cover vent that used to go back into the intake just after the MAF and before the TB. My trims are high positives but the ECU is handling it with stoich AFRs (I haven't installed my new injectors or my FIC yet. I'm not driving the car yet, obviously. Maybe my trims have to do with my MAF, and different airflow from stock setup, but the guy who is going to tune my car says: block off the PCV system and put a vented catch can on the breather side only. Thoughts?
Fuel trims are not affected on these cars. We dont have a MAF either so that could very well be the case. Many people delete the PCV and turn it into another vent.. There is many debates on this topic and if you read through the comments you can see it can get very muddy lol! The main thing is to get that crank case pressure out whether its vented, Pvc, Vac pumps, etc... many ways to skin a cat sort of speak. Each car will vary as well This video just illustrates what we have success with on the 1.6T Gamma motors. Hope that helps a tad.. Good luck with your build!!!!
@@KDMTUNERS Thanks! Well, I started my car again but this time with the Deatschwerks 440cc injectors installed. Fuel trims at idle are now LTFT -5.5 and STFT 0.0, down from LTFT +29 and STFT +20. The bigger injectors obviously richen things up but I still don't have the F/IC installed, so it will be interesting to see what happens with the mapping.
Question.Seen few videos.One video says run A line from each valve cover to each side of the can watch kind of makes no Sence.Another video says to run A line to one side of valve cover and the other valve cover line to my 750 Holley carburator?Can anyone answer this question.
Would it work if i only have one catch can and i drill the pcv valve and connect both hoses in a y to the catch can and from there to intake. and i just plug with a plug the original pcv intake tube. Im about to do it just wandering if that would be an issue in my head i wont worry about pcv not working i would drill the inside and any blow by will go to the can
The reason i want some suction on the vent side is because while cleaning the throttle body with crc at 2000 rpm with the intake disconnected i saw a stream of oil coming out of the vent side. i would imagine with suction you would get all the blow by and burnt oil faster just a thought. sorry for the paragraphs
@@tracylewisperformance2270 That may be but James claims that Tracy Lewis could care less about customers after the sale which is backed up by a forum member on FRF. So now I'm stuck between these two. I guess I'll have to settle for a lesser catch can which is a shame but I don't like getting burned.
@@sixshooter4570 LOL!! We provide the best possible tech support possible, and James ignores emails and sends out incomplete kits. So you think someone can just copy a patented product, copy that companies logo and pictures and pretend to be them? How would you react.
@@sixshooter4570 You wont even get all the parts to make it work. We get calls daily from others pipped off from him. We are an actual manufacturing facility and you will have a hard time find any of our over 18,000 customers with a legitimate complaint. Only plants by James. He is a scammer selling out of his mothers house! Also, do a arrest record search and see how dishonest this scammer is. And ask any of our real customers for feedback. Only competitors and scammers have tried the social media slander. I hold the patent. I did years of R&D to come up with this solution. And were cheaper than his junk incomplete kits.
@@tracylewisperformance2270 I got direct feedback from one of your customers which is why I wouldn't do business with someone who doesn't know how to treat their customers after the sale. He mentioned that he had purchased this kit a while back and it may have been when you were both working together. All I know is he specifically mentioned both of your names and stated that Tracy Lewis was an A'hole and James tried to help but didn't really understand how it all worked which leads me to believe that you are the original developer, however, I can't buy from someone who takes someone else's work nor can I purchase from someone who treats their customers like crap. So the only option I have left is purchase a different system altogether which is a damn shame.
Thank you for all of the information. I have the Kia 3.3 v6 in my AWD 2027 Sorento. I want to add a realistic oil filtering system to improve the combination for years. I can not have any open vents or breather filters because of the climate and rain I am around. Can the oil air separator and catch can be vented on the stock intake after the filter. Thank you again for your video
What if you made a cap that vented to an oil air separator mounted like the one you have there? I'd think that would keep the filter clean and flowing the same over a longer time. Just my 2 cents. Great video!
What if you permanently plug the manifolds side pcv port and just catch can the cam cover port to intake on a turbo install. So there will be no vacuum leak and ghost air into the manifold and you will still have a catch can installed to ?.
What are you doing! Papa, make a choice. Open System or Closed System. Not both. Every car gets blow by, boosted engines get more. Theres also a Hot and Cold side to every engine too. The oil sump pump hooks up to the pully but thats way beyond you son!
Time out. Venting from the valve covers is next to pointless. Stock engines do not have them for a reason and nobody connects their catch cans to valve covers anyway because they're not connected to the intake. Plus, venting makes your engine bay dirty. Secondly, The crankcase and valve covers are two different things. The crankcase has to release pressure from under the pistons, not above it. The way you have it set up it sounds like you closed looped it. Yes you are preventing soot by having it caught by the catch can but you're also then just forcing the pressure back into the crankcase. A good catch can will remove virtually all contaminates which doesn't harm your intake. Some intakes are designed to utilize the positive pressure from the PCV (and not negative because a PCV is one way) which is another reason engines will run like shit if you don't get that pressure into the intake. This can be overcome with proper tuning though.
So much bad information but I'll stick with one. You want more ring gap but not for blow by. You do not want blow by. You want ring gap to keep the ring ends from butting together and lifting the ringland.
It's going through the cat so they think it's cleaning it and it's supposed to be burning off in the cyl chamber before it gets to the cat. So that's why they think it is.
jus rid of those catch cans & vent the 3 ports to atmosphere like i do bro bro, he even stated those catch cans choke up the system. im at 105,000 miles strong with clean internals :)
… adds catch can to separate oil from air… then adds an oil/air separator.. A bit of misinformation here.. your setup was initially incorrect.. you made it work but it’s not the proper way. A bit disappointed to see that the comments are commending this..
ANGRY 408W correct now Mass air on this car.. I actually made this video for these specific cars. We didn’t realize it would reach such a wide group of guys and gals. There is so much more info to go into on these systems that we simply didn’t get into
Can I run a catch can but without the pcv? I want to remove pcv valve and replace with -⁶ an fitting. Would there be any negative effects? Running a 22 forte GT 1.6 T full bolt ons.
This is by far the best explanation. Other catch can videos are all half baked and doesn't explain. Tuners and car makers want to keep catch can installation closely guarded secret.
Best explaination I've found so far and I've been looking a long time never quite feeling all information was clear, now it is, thank you. It's also addressed problems I've had following other so called explanations.
10/10 explanation, had a "shadow cam" issue due to the pcv being hooked up to a catch with a filter ontop, cheers for helping explain that its a closed system car preformed much better after the fix
Completly blowed my mind 😆😆😆
I have one question, the oil catch can to vent the intake won't do anything, right? Because if on the oil catch can, the air can't flow from out (atmosphere) to inside the can and go the intake, it won't work 😅😅😅
Looks good, I've been running catch cans on my higher mileage cars since the 80s.the only reason for a pcv valve,was to stop the use of draft tubes,from the valve cover to the road.now everything is pretty much a closed pcv system. I use the same thing as u but I put marbles in the bottom, and I put it in between pcv and throttle body.
yah im tune lap3 and vent off the top, its been like this for at least 2 years w. a dual inlet catch can. But as of last week am seeing a lil oil leak off the top. this helped me alot to avoid problems ty good sir.
Finally someone working on veloster with knowledge. Thanks for the video it was very informative.
Love your presentation..logical. upon watching it many times, pops out in my mind what will happen to the catch cans when they get pressurized? Keep it goin...this is very educational..tnx
Best catch can/ pcv video I have seen! Would have saved a ton of research!
This was a great tutorial for explaining how different setups work so I could choose which one would be best for the tune of my car. THANKS! Very insightful.
The best and most accurate info I get until now, completely agree with it, thanks for that, cheers!
Where do you find the fitting for the mishimoto cap to put a filter??
Another fantastic video by KDM Tuners!!! It is interesting you brought up that last point about someone mentioning an interference with the pressure and BOV, etc. There is sooooo much false information going around on a daily basis. With that said, I like the idea of having videos that clear up some of the most common misinformation, whether it's tied in to your current install video setup or even its own series/topic down the road. Either way, great work, guys! I look forward to these every week!!!!!!
Ryan Andrews wow thanks!!! We appreciate you watching us😁😁
Agreed. Couldn't have said it better!
Thanks for watching Michael!
Excellent information video on PVC / venting pressure. On a small block chevy application with two valve cover vent if i was understanding you correctly 1). on the pvc valve side i will direct that into the catch can breather and the out line will go down to a bung welded 45 degrees into the flow of exhaust. 2). plug the manifold line and the other side will just be breather at the valve cover?
idk about this engine in particular but most pcv valves are one way check valves so explain to me how the crank case pulls fresh air into it from the intake it should use the slight vacuum to pull the oil misted air out of the crank case and reburn it so put a catch can inline to seperate the oil from the air so clean air enters the intake and the oilly mist doesn't lower your octane rating or cause carbon build up
So, if I understood correctly, the ideal way to get this done is: 3-port catch can into which the intake valve and positive combustion valve (both sides) hoses will go into and vent to atmosphere while using the vented cap (whether with filter or with 45 degree elbow to an air-oil separator - also vented to atmosphere? I'm going to wait and get your system as opposed to a two-can system.
Agree. 3 port system better
Thanks for the vid and commitment to the 1.6 platform.
Thanks for supporting us!!!
Nice job. Ill need to hyper like this every time I get this question I get tired of explaning this...
Matthew Schlosser haha that’s why we did this one. It’s hard to explain via text! Hopefully this helps everyone😁 and thank you!!
Smart man best layout ive seen so far amazing ideas and information. Bless up
All they had to do was cap the vacuum line from the intake manifold and vent the two lines from the valve cover.
i currently vent my pcv, breather & oil cap (clean side separator) to atmosphere! it's been great :)
Thank you for the informative information. Do you mind providing where to purchase the vented oil cap? Thank you
Cheers from the UK!
My mishimoto just arrived and ive just been staring at it like okayyyyyy, time to install it, hour later, right really should do it... Yeah...
What car you putting it on?
Thank you i needed this!!
just a quick question if you don't mind? does the hose from the pcv valve go to the (in) side of the catch can or the(out) side??
I just bought some crc intake valve and turbo cleaner. Do you have any tips on the easiest way to apply it to the throttle body? Could i spray some in to the hose that leads to the intake manifold? Thanks for all your hard work! Keep it up
There's quite a few videos on the use of CRC Top End cleaner and would suggest to follow the instructions on the can. Mainly you just spray the entire can in SHORT BURSTS slightly in front (1/4in.-1/2in.) of the throttle body but AFTER the maf sensor (mass air flow). This is to be done after the car has been allowed to warm up, while running, and gas pedal intially depressed to hold rpms around 1500-2000 and after just enough gas to keep from stalling due to leaning out the fuel mixture slightly. After the can is emptied, as per instructions, it's just a matter of turning off the engine to "hot soak" giving the cleaner time to work it's magic, then taking a safe but spirited drive on a highway and a little bit of stop n' go in the city. This aids cleaning out engine and allows time for the computer to adjust itself to any changes from the cleaning.
Just don't spray the CRC in front of the MAF sensor as it can cause damage to the sensitive electronics.
This type of cleaning is suggested to be done before each oil change on high mileage GDI Engine cars or even as a preventative step on newer cars. Since the fuel injectors are not above the intake valves on a GDI engine and gas cannot aid in keeping the valves clean, thus leading to more carbon build up on the intake side.
An oil change is also highly recommended after this procedure as some of the cleaner can sneak past the piston rings into your oil, not a huge issues but has the potential to dirty up your oil more or even thin it out a bit.
In some rare cases,people have reported their vehicle throwing a code for "lean fuel" after the use of this product, so you might need to have the code cleared.
Which could be $20-$30.
I would suggest running a fuel injector cleaner before the intake cleaner procedure for atleast a full tanks worth of fuel just to make sure the injectors are free and clear of any crud, it won't help clean the intake side but it may prevent a code popping up from a dirty injector coupled with spraying cleaner into your intake.
GDI engines getting dirty like they do is a big reason many people recommend installing an oil catch can as a way to lessen the nonsense going back into their engines, but it requires maintence in the form of monitoring the level of fluid/emptying so the device itself doesn't become or cause worse issues than a dirty intake. Not all but most, of people have a hard enough time doing proper PM (preventative maintence) on their cars anyway, for whatever reason. So this mod is mostly a unneeded headache to most since newer cars actively compensate for dirty components by self adjusting the parameters of the engine, to a point. ( ie. electronic throttle bodies adjusting trim to alter air to fuel ratios based off an array of sensors) This happens daily while simply driving the vehicle by way of the computer constantly running diagnostics on itself, but it also has a potential for more stuff to break or cause other stuff to break. Eventually the intake manifold could do with being removed and throughly cleaned, some cars (BMWs) supposedly have a service recommendation at a certain mileage to have the intake/valves walnut blasted to clean off any carbon deposits and that 'ish aint anywhere cheap to have done or gain any performance aside from a reliability stand point.
Like most things, pros and cons.
Sorry for the long reply, hope this helps you or anyone who reads it. 😎👉👉
Now I'm more confused then ever lol
I installed One close catch can after the bvc to intake it works great negative pressure in the cam case is it better than positive ? I think this work is over done
Your PCV system is absurdly complicated. On turbo cars, it's easier to install your catch can from the valve cover vent to the turbo intake/ filter side. The suction from the turbo creates a natural vacuum on the crankcase. On big turbo cars like yours, you're going to have to modify the baffling system to your valve cover/ PCV to accept bigger lines for more blow by. When you have a good oil separator, it don't have to be vented.
you are saying something
1
W
I have a radium pcv/catch can and I'm getting oil out my air cone. It's a destroked brian crower cammed big bore out out e.j 2.5 with a 68 mm borg Warner efi with a trial wastegate on e85 in my fully swapped 1999 subaru impreza rs. Why is it doing that?
@@ericexplorationunknown9365 thats because there is no vacuum between the filter and the turbo. A standard or correct filter for an engine will create that vacuum.
You say your line under the oil cap was added and that stopped adding oil to the left of the two dual. It would seem as if you nullified the PCV under the foam and used a simple industrial air/oil separator in place of the left unit. The boosted side of the valve cover (intake) was over pressurizing your oil seals on your valves and the smaller Mishittymoto A/O separator baffles (Scamazon specials for $18) were not keeping up with the pressure. Obtaining a larger volume A/O separator would have prevented you from adding another $6 separator. Please explain how I misunderstood.
Hi! Question:
Do you have a check valve inline from the pcv side? So it will look like: valve cover, hose, check valve, hose then to the can, hose then to intake manifold.
Or would you put a check valve after the can, followed by a hose then into the intake manifold? Or is a check valve still needed when doing an external pcv?
Thanks in advance!
Thanks for the detail video mate. It cleared the tons of confusion and setup we see in the car scene. My question: Im using an external iac valve with the iac in coming from the air intake and the iac out going to the manifold. I have a tee joint in between the air intake which attaches to the outgoing tube from the oil catch (in coming from pcv valve) to keep the vacuum. Can i join the catch can vacuum tube with the tube from iac out into the manifold instead? My reason being if there is any blow by oil and dirt, it wont clog the iac valve which can reduce the efficiency. Any ideas?
This is probably a dumb question, but i havent found an answer anywhere, how did you hookup an AN fitting to the PCV valve? Is the valve itself completely different?
Good job on most of this!! Email me direct and will give you better explanations to help you. As your engine is turbo charged, the intake manifold only provides evacuation vacuum at idle or deceleration. Any time the turbo is spooling up it makes boost pressure. So you need another secondary suction source so no pressure can ever build to begin with. You do not want ANY venting. Venting is technology that was outdated in the 60's and 70's. SO, what you need first, is check valves in both outlets of a dual outlet can. And the can your using only traps a small amount of the oil, look at one of the 95% effective dual valve systems with cleanside separator. That way it uses IM vacuum when no boost is present, and use venturi effect generated vacuum when in boost so ALL the time suction is pulled. This aids in ring seal and stability and reduces ring flutter blowby. Simply emulating a belt driven vacuum pump. Your using the exhaust that due to pulses will still allow pressure, unless you use an header evac valve. But these only work with no mufflers or exhaust pipes. Again, your on the right track but you need to totally emulate this. Here is a video of a dyno with venting and pulling suction. th-cam.com/video/-7bGshirEKI/w-d-xo.html But email me and will guide you further as your 80% their. Good job!!! Oh, and using a Mishi can only traps around 30-40%. The rest is still ingested. Will share all with you.
What do you think about a check valve on the pcv can between the can and the intake manifold? Any benefit?
Thanks for sharing this. I have a question regarding the Jeep 4.0 inline six (2001) this model has a vent on top of the front of the valve cover and a valve on top of the back of the valve cover (near the firewall) Some call the front vent PCV and back vent CCV, others tell you that the 4.0 has only CCV as in closed crank ventilation that is a remnant from the WWII jeeps. (close system could witstand deeper water crossings) There are a lot of video's about mounting an oil catch can. There are people that swear it needs to be connected to the vent on top of the front of the valve cover, others will advise you to put it on the on the back vent on top of of the valve cover. What would you advice? Thanks my friend.
I have a 2004 Dodge Ram 1500 5.7l with a cold air intake, oil catch can , upgrade throttle body, upgraded plugs and wires, stage 2 chip. I have found out that I can add a vent I think I may have to add it to the cap but where can I get one or how do I do it?
Would one of these vented caps fit a 3.3L KIA Stinger? I have catch cans on both sides of of the engine but I can smell oil after driving hard telling me I'm pushing oil out of something. Would prefer not to pressurize my crank case and this seems like an easy solution.
i have a friend installed his catch can between pcv and crankcase. instead of pcv and air manifold
My TT Mitsubishi GTO (aka 3000GT) smokes on deceleration only after boost. Is that due to the PCV system (not vented) or due to the turbo seals leaking? I have recently rebuilt the turbos, but the problem is still there. I had also installed a two-port oil catch can between the rear valve cover and the intake manifold, but the problem was still present and the can did not collect any oil for two years... The motor was replaced with a rebuilt one four years ago. What is the most probable cause for the smoke?
Is the initial set up, i.e the PCV catch can loop, and the vented can okay for an NA engine, or will I need a second vent? I figure since I'm not running as much horsepower as a turbo, and only driving on the street, my cans won't fill up as quick. My main concern is engine health so I'm after optimal crankcase pressure/vacuum and a minimal recycling of blow-by gasses.
I have a 08 Silverado 5.3L with 70mm turbo. I bought it already boosted but no catch can. The guy told me it needed one , but not that it was crucial. Anyhow. I've watched several videos but none have shown me exactly how to install it. I did install but I'd like to know your take on proper installation and which line goes on inflow side of can & which goes on outflow side and should it have a breather can or no. Mine can with cap & breather. I put breather on but its letting sum oil residue blow threw it & making a mess. Noting serious just potentially.
So, vent to atmosphere for efficiency?
Got any setups for the 4.0t Audi s7 ?
This sounds oddly specific to performance/non-naturally aspirated vehicles. Most cars now a days don't vent into the atmosphere, and would cause a vacuum leak. From what I could tell in your video, you have two cans, one setup how most folks would do it (from the crankcase to the PCV, from the PCV to the OCC, from the OCC to the (upper) intake manifold). Then you have another OCC from the Valve Cover to OCC, and OCC vents from there.
It's most likely my inexperience, but I've never seen a system where the valve cover connects directly to the air intake, and flushes the valve cover with fresh air. I also don't understand why there wouldn't be a check valve on the valve cover to avoid blowby into the intake. I'm assuming this is turbo specific?
So your pushing boost into your crank case vs vacuum????
Bit confused on your catch can. If the line goes in the manifold. Wouldn't boost pressure push that back in the valve cover
dose the pcv valve go to the out of in on the catch can and where dose the other hose goes, I have a 350 tbi chevy.
Did your fuel trims change when you installed this setup? I have turbocharged my car and have a sealed/baffled OCC - PCV goes to catch can inlet, catch can outlet goes to manifold. I have a breather on the valve cover vent that used to go back into the intake just after the MAF and before the TB. My trims are high positives but the ECU is handling it with stoich AFRs (I haven't installed my new injectors or my FIC yet. I'm not driving the car yet, obviously. Maybe my trims have to do with my MAF, and different airflow from stock setup, but the guy who is going to tune my car says: block off the PCV system and put a vented catch can on the breather side only. Thoughts?
Fuel trims are not affected on these cars. We dont have a MAF either so that could very well be the case. Many people delete the PCV and turn it into another vent.. There is many debates on this topic and if you read through the comments you can see it can get very muddy lol! The main thing is to get that crank case pressure out whether its vented, Pvc, Vac pumps, etc... many ways to skin a cat sort of speak. Each car will vary as well This video just illustrates what we have success with on the 1.6T Gamma motors. Hope that helps a tad.. Good luck with your build!!!!
@@KDMTUNERS Thanks! Well, I started my car again but this time with the Deatschwerks 440cc injectors installed. Fuel trims at idle are now LTFT -5.5 and STFT 0.0, down from LTFT +29 and STFT +20. The bigger injectors obviously richen things up but I still don't have the F/IC installed, so it will be interesting to see what happens with the mapping.
The difference you were wondering at 1:45 is that catalletic converters exist
Is there a problem if a non ventilated catch-can is installed higher than the PCV valve?
Awesome video! Thank you!
Exactly how I've done it on my Supercharged FPV GT
I need a cap for a 2016 veloster
Possible is it possible to just run the Scavenging system to the the line that's on the back of the valve cover that would normally be to the intake?
Would I need two catch cans for a stock setup on a 2013 Hyundai Sonata Turbo
Informative AF! Thank you!
What happens when pressure shifted to the catch can?
My filter on the catch can leaks.. what would cause that? Its been emptied and still blows oil out of the top filter
Is it the same system for audi a4 b7 2.0 tfsi?
Pvc is under vacuum when the engine is at idle, so lower pressure. Higher crankcase pressure at wot.
Question.Seen few videos.One video says run A line from each valve cover to each side of the can watch kind of makes no Sence.Another video says to run A line to one side of valve cover and the other valve cover line to my 750 Holley carburator?Can anyone answer this question.
Would this work for the na version?
Would it work if i only have one catch can and i drill the pcv valve and connect both hoses in a y to the catch can and from there to intake. and i just plug with a plug the original pcv intake tube. Im about to do it just wandering if that would be an issue in my head i wont worry about pcv not working i would drill the inside and any blow by will go to the can
The reason i want some suction on the vent side is because while cleaning the throttle body with crc at 2000 rpm with the intake disconnected i saw a stream of oil coming out of the vent side. i would imagine with suction you would get all the blow by and burnt oil faster just a thought. sorry for the paragraphs
I was gonna add a catch can but now I'm worried. If I add a catch can I'm gonna increase pressure???? It sounds too complicated
What do you think about the RXP dual catch can set up. New for 2019.
I need a great solution for my 2019 Raptor.
RXP is a scammer Counterfeiter! Beware of him. www.RXCatchcans.com for the genuine ones.
@@tracylewisperformance2270
That may be but James claims that Tracy Lewis could care less about customers after the sale which is backed up by a forum member on FRF.
So now I'm stuck between these two.
I guess I'll have to settle for a lesser catch can which is a shame but I don't like getting burned.
@@sixshooter4570 LOL!! We provide the best possible tech support possible, and James ignores emails and sends out incomplete kits. So you think someone can just copy a patented product, copy that companies logo and pictures and pretend to be them? How would you react.
@@sixshooter4570 You wont even get all the parts to make it work. We get calls daily from others pipped off from him. We are an actual manufacturing facility and you will have a hard time find any of our over 18,000 customers with a legitimate complaint. Only plants by James. He is a scammer selling out of his mothers house! Also, do a arrest record search and see how dishonest this scammer is. And ask any of our real customers for feedback. Only competitors and scammers have tried the social media slander. I hold the patent. I did years of R&D to come up with this solution. And were cheaper than his junk incomplete kits.
@@tracylewisperformance2270
I got direct feedback from one of your customers which is why I wouldn't do business with someone who doesn't know how to treat their customers after the sale.
He mentioned that he had purchased this kit a while back and it may have been when you were both working together.
All I know is he specifically mentioned both of your names and stated that Tracy Lewis was an A'hole and James tried to help but didn't really understand how it all worked which leads me to believe that you are the original developer, however, I can't buy from someone who takes someone else's work nor can I purchase from someone who treats their customers like crap.
So the only option I have left is purchase a different system altogether which is a damn shame.
Thank you for all of the information. I have the Kia 3.3 v6 in my AWD 2027 Sorento. I want to add a realistic oil filtering system to improve the combination for years. I can not have any open vents or breather filters because of the climate and rain I am around.
Can the oil air separator and catch can be vented on the stock intake after the filter. Thank you again for your video
What if you made a cap that vented to an oil air separator mounted like the one you have there?
I'd think that would keep the filter clean and flowing the same over a longer time.
Just my 2 cents.
Great video!
Aaaaand I kept watching the video for literally 5 seconds (Paused around 7:50) and you said you'd be coming out with that version.
Thanks again!
Thank you!
What if you permanently plug the manifolds side pcv port and just catch can the cam cover port to intake on a turbo install. So there will be no vacuum leak and ghost air into the manifold and you will still have a catch can installed to ?.
At last, someone is installing an oil catch can it correctly.
What are you doing! Papa, make a choice. Open System or Closed System. Not both. Every car gets blow by, boosted engines get more. Theres also a Hot and Cold side to every engine too. The oil sump pump hooks up to the pully but thats way beyond you son!
Time out. Venting from the valve covers is next to pointless. Stock engines do not have them for a reason and nobody connects their catch cans to valve covers anyway because they're not connected to the intake. Plus, venting makes your engine bay dirty.
Secondly, The crankcase and valve covers are two different things. The crankcase has to release pressure from under the pistons, not above it. The way you have it set up it sounds like you closed looped it. Yes you are preventing soot by having it caught by the catch can but you're also then just forcing the pressure back into the crankcase. A good catch can will remove virtually all contaminates which doesn't harm your intake. Some intakes are designed to utilize the positive pressure from the PCV (and not negative because a PCV is one way) which is another reason engines will run like shit if you don't get that pressure into the intake. This can be overcome with proper tuning though.
Can you just use an electric vacuum pump, and separate the PCV/Venting from the engine intake system entirely?
Yes sir you could. There are a few pump style systems out there. We have a few options coming... Just waiting on the parts to arrive
Where are you located
😳 👍 thanks I’ll have to go to your web page and contact you 👍✌️🇨🇦
Good explanation. that's why i don't believe this guy
Not to figure out how to do that on my mini Moto
I need someone In South Jersey That can work on Nissan's....
Wow so confusing
Will this catch can and vented cap work for a 2007 bmw 328 I e90 n52
So much bad information but I'll stick with one. You want more ring gap but not for blow by. You do not want blow by. You want ring gap to keep the ring ends from butting together and lifting the ringland.
It's going through the cat so they think it's cleaning it and it's supposed to be burning off in the cyl chamber before it gets to the cat. So that's why they think it is.
This hose n that one and this one 🙁
On the PVC side is there a check valve?
Keep It Real the Pcv itself is a one way check valve
45 de gringo on the pvc :)
Captain Planet would be ashamed.
LOL...Yes Captain Planet would not be happy!
@Too Gq For You
jus rid of those catch cans & vent the 3 ports to atmosphere like i do bro bro, he even stated those catch cans choke up the system. im at 105,000 miles strong with clean internals :)
Trump2020
… adds catch can to separate oil from air… then adds an oil/air separator..
A bit of misinformation here.. your setup was initially incorrect.. you made it work but it’s not the proper way. A bit disappointed to see that the comments are commending this..
This must be a speed density setup. You can't do this with a mass air system. You will have one massive vacuum leak.
ANGRY 408W correct now Mass air on this car.. I actually made this video for these specific cars. We didn’t realize it would reach such a wide group of guys and gals. There is so much more info to go into on these systems that we simply didn’t get into
@@KDMTUNERS pcv and venting is an issue with any high performance car. The joys of hot rodding.
Degrengo😂
Vent it outside & it cost nothing.
A little bit too complicated for me lol
I like your heat wrapped intercooler pipe that couldn't get any higher in the engine bay, cook that mother and then keep the heat in broaskie
Hope your saving for your EPA fines
This setup is for competition off-road use only, it is not intended for registered street cars.
Can I run a catch can but without the pcv? I want to remove pcv valve and replace with -⁶ an fitting. Would there be any negative effects? Running a 22 forte GT 1.6 T full bolt ons.