If you dont want to solder just cut off the old valve and put on a compression valve. Easy peasy and you ger a completely new assembly without and compatability issues.
Nice work Winston! I agree with you about shark bite fittings. I do find them useful as a temporary fix though. We did have one situation where is was use a shark bite or cut building framing. So shark bite it was. I have to disagree with you on the pex. We have about 55 buildings on site with a mix of copper, galvanized and pvc fittings and a ton of underground infrastructure. We have overnight freezing temps most of the winter and our pressure runs at about 85 psi. We switched to using Uponor ProPex about 6 years ago and have had 2-4 failures which is about 95% more reliable than any of of our other systems. I was pretty hesitant at first having come up in construction sweating copper for years. But I can’t argue with the results. Still enjoy working with cooper but just sharing what my experience has been. Hope you are having an awe week! Keep up the great work
THats what my plan to do. If it dont work I might break out my torch and removed the old one and replaced with the compression valve instead of soldering a new one,
Pex is a little better than the cpvc as it will expand before it burst from freezing. Copper is definitely best, but not always the most cost efficient. Shark bite is something to just get by with.
Nothing wrong with Shark bits or pex when used correctly. You tube is full of videos of pin hole leaks in copper pipe and soldered couplings that leak. All in all for a novice you will more likely have problems with a soldered joint then you will using a shark bit.
I think I need to change the brasscraft repair kit and thinking the seat is broken. I was about to replace toilet flapper and the water shutoff valve is fully tightened and water is still filling the tank. I saw the repair kit at homedepot. Is this just an easy fix? I'ts a brasscraft straight valve Nom Crimp PEX Barb. If I remove and reinstall that nut (of course main water line valve is shut off), no risk of breaking the pex crimp?
Whet do you do when you shut off the water to the entire house and the shut-off valve is still leaking. It has leaked about three of four gallons so far and is still leaking. The water is off at every faucet and every toilet, but this shut-off valve is still dripping water. I replaced the toilet mechanism but I also need to replace the shut-off valve and the connecting hose (valve to toilet bowl bottom). Valve says BOB on it.
You need to shut off the water at the main valve at the entrance to the house and then drain as much water as possible from the sink or bathtub nearest the valve you are turning off. You may not be able to get all the water out so you will have to put some type of container under the valve you are repairing or replacing to drain the line feeding it.
If it’s your gate valve off your water meter. Tighten the packing nut up along with valve stem. If that doesn’t work you need to have city shut down your waterso you can replace that valve. You should have 2 valves on each side of your water meter. Street side valve and house side valve. Just for future reference don’t mess with the street side one at all and use the house side valve for future shutdowns
I've had to do this many times and it's very useful. I'm glad you should people an alternate way to fix their shut-off valves
If you dont want to solder just cut off the old valve and put on a compression valve. Easy peasy and you ger a completely new assembly without and compatability issues.
Nice work Winston! I agree with you about shark bite fittings. I do find them useful as a temporary fix though. We did have one situation where is was use a shark bite or cut building framing. So shark bite it was. I have to disagree with you on the pex. We have about 55 buildings on site with a mix of copper, galvanized and pvc fittings and a ton of underground infrastructure. We have overnight freezing temps most of the winter and our pressure runs at about 85 psi. We switched to using Uponor ProPex about 6 years ago and have had 2-4 failures which is about 95% more reliable than any of of our other systems. I was pretty hesitant at first having come up in construction sweating copper for years. But I can’t argue with the results. Still enjoy working with cooper but just sharing what my experience has been. Hope you are having an awe week! Keep up the great work
Thank you for the great videos casterman. Great information buddy. ❤️🌲🌲🌲❤️
THats what my plan to do. If it dont work I might break out my torch and removed the old one and replaced with the compression valve instead of soldering a new one,
Pex is a little better than the cpvc as it will expand before it burst from freezing. Copper is definitely best, but not always the most cost efficient. Shark bite is something to just get by with.
Nothing wrong with Shark bits or pex when used correctly. You tube is full of videos of pin hole leaks in copper pipe and soldered couplings that leak. All in all for a novice you will more likely have problems with a soldered joint then you will using a shark bit.
Great fix and thanks for bringing us along. 🔥
Always use quarter turn valves, avoid a leak years from install
Hope u doin good buddy great repair here an explanation thank u sir. Be kind an have a great day!
cut that out and put a quarter turn compression valve on...
If it hadn’t worked I’d, have resoldered.
casterman is in the plumper buisness now? hahaha
when you think a bit, you can safe a lot of money. greetings to mrs casterman !
love ya brother!
I think I need to change the brasscraft repair kit and thinking the seat is broken. I was about to replace toilet flapper and the water shutoff valve is fully tightened and water is still filling the tank. I saw the repair kit at homedepot. Is this just an easy fix? I'ts a brasscraft straight valve Nom Crimp PEX Barb. If I remove and reinstall that nut (of course main water line valve is shut off), no risk of breaking the pex crimp?
Where do you find brass craft angle stops with out the plastic stem? All mine are plastic stem with brass housings.
Whet do you do when you shut off the water to the entire house and the shut-off valve is still leaking. It has leaked about three of four gallons so far and is still leaking. The water is off at every faucet and every toilet, but this shut-off valve is still dripping water. I replaced the toilet mechanism but I also need to replace the shut-off valve and the connecting hose (valve to toilet bowl bottom). Valve says BOB on it.
Did you try tightening the packing nut
You need to shut off the water at the main valve at the entrance to the house and then drain as much water as possible from the sink or bathtub nearest the valve you are turning off. You may not be able to get all the water out so you will have to put some type of container under the valve you are repairing or replacing to drain the line feeding it.
If it’s a multi turn angle stop it almost always is the packing nut
If it’s your gate valve off your water meter. Tighten the packing nut up along with valve stem. If that doesn’t work you need to have city shut down your waterso you can replace that valve. You should have 2 valves on each side of your water meter. Street side valve and house side valve. Just for future reference don’t mess with the street side one at all and use the house side valve for future shutdowns
Thanks for sharing, I know you’re wife is happy
Hahaha yes she is.