How To Prime an Engine And Oil Pump
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 24 ส.ค. 2017
- Before that first engine start up, you need to prime the engine and prime the oil pump with oil. Proper oil delivery is vital to engine break-in as well as long term performance. Today we look at the 3 stages of priming and oil pump and priming the engine
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Just did a similar method last week on a jeep 2.5. 1/4" drill with 1/4" adapter to a long 1/4" extension and a 1/4" flathead bit. Spin until the drill bogs down, now you have oil pressure! Great video.
I recently rebuilt a Saturn 1.9 DOHC. The pump is in the timing cover. I packed it with petroleum jelly. Once I had the engine together on the stand I installed the flex plate and starter. I left out the spark plugs, and used a jump pack hooked to the starter spun the engine over till I saw flow in the cylinder head with the valve cover off.
That is a common procedure. The first time I heard of this was about rebuilding the Toyota 22R engine.
Borat voice : "Verry Nyce !"
Top tips as per usual. It's always good to see how the other guy performs the task! Personally, it's just valve cover off then liberally coat top end with oil! Remove fuel pump relay, then burst starter till' engine seems happy! Haven't had any issues yet!
i just crank the engine over for 20 - 30 seconds and then light it off, if the engine was assembled with assembly lube I don't sweat it and I've never had a problem.
Hi Charles, good stuff. I had low hot idle oil pressure on my Mk4 R32 and recently changed the oil pump. I primed the pump in a bucket of new oil, installed and buttoned up the oil pan, and then used the procedure similar to what you described. Pulled the coils, disconnected the fuel pump, and relieved the fuel system pressure. Turned the engine over 3 times for 20-30 seconds. Fired her up and got "Bentley Spec" oil pressure. Keep up the informative work! Sorry I missed meeting you at WITW this past April.
Thanks, I am old school and always pulled out the distributor to prime the engine with oil
Great tips Charles. I do it differently but your methods work just as good.
Great tip, thank you. I always like to have an external oil pressure gauge connected (even if it's just temporary capillary type) to be 100% sure that the oil pressure is in spec. What are your thoughts on using a cheap/low API spec oil for break in as apposed to a high spec that would "protect " key wear surfaces better and possibly prevent correct mating during break in?
Waw ,you should be very exited to see the result of your work ,I cant wait to see this engine in started
I have used a 50/50 mix of straight 30wt oil and stp oil treatment(blue bottle) in the oil pump. Then pull full injectors harness or fuse and leave the spark plugs out and crank about 20 secs wait for about 30 sec crank again ,wait and then do it another time or 2. The install spark plugs, plug in injectors or fuse and fire it up. Have used this method on multiple builds without issues.
Btw i plan to use your link when i order a few parts from amazon.
I was wondering in future videos, you could do a video about the drivability of the turbo add on. I am interested in doing this mod like yours with a mild boost. I just wondering it it going to be more abrupt power or it is gradual which would be great for a daily driver. I always though the VR6 was restricted by the intake and exhaust and curious on how this engine performs with the turbo.
Beautiful video, very helpful thanks
Great video Charles.
I would pre-fill the oil filter, keep the spark plugs out for easy cranking & perhaps check thru the oil filler cap if the oil reached the OHC.
Ioooô
i did the jelly route on my 95 jeep cherokee and worked perfectly!!
I've built a few Rover V8 engines and as the pump lives above the oil, not in it, the jelly route is the only way to go. I've known a few guys use grease but it tends to not blend in with the oil and just settle in the sump as a sticky mess.
I chucked a mk3 dizzy shaft into my drill to prime my hybrid aba mk2 build. Worked great
Took The gear off first so I didn't have to mesh to the intermediate
just subscribed good information I have to replace an 1999 4.0 Inline 6 amc engine in the future. I'm going to assume that the distributor drives the oil pump and going to spin the hell out of that. the engine will be remanufactured the real question is do I really "OCD" worry about timing?
Hi, I’m currently rebuilding my R32 24v VR, this video (and all your videos) is extremely helpful but I have a couple questions:
1.) what type of oil and weight do you typically use for break in? I paused the video and it looked like you were using liqui moly but I thought that had friction modifiers in it which is a bad idea for break-in?
2.) how long will the engine stay “primed” before gravity pulls the oil back down to the sump? My engine is still on a stand and wondering if I should wait until it’s in the car before priming
Hi, I have a quick question, is it true that if the VAG low pressure oil tester is used instead of the sensor there's the risk of breaking the timing chain? I've had an incomplete diagnostic done at a VW service and the engineer stopped the mechanic in performing the operation, so I was unable to know if I had a failing oil pump or not.
I'm actually cracking my oil pump open on my mk5 r32. Any guidance? I had oil pressure warning come on and oil light kept blinking. Pump is out of the car now, pump freely spins, and there isnt any binding and screen is not clogged.. should I pull my pump apart and inspect it and put it back in, or just be do e with it and buy a new pump?
Hey Charles.. just doing this trick on a motor I had built.. only question i have is does the drive gear have to be put back in any specific orientation in relation to the timing? Only ask because I noticed the drive gear has a small hole in it
So cool I learned so much from this thanks Big C
How can do it in a 1992 golf GTI 2.0 16v? I’m rebuilding the engine now!
Thanks!
Hi there ...I am having low oil pressure in my vw 2.0 tsi 2009 ....I put a gauge and I am reading 16 psi ...while put little more rpm pressure stays the same and warning light appear ....do I think can be a bad oil pump ?? Thanks
What if I only change the oil pump do I steal have to do all this process?
Any ideas on a good way to prime new oil pump on a 2.7t?
pulling the plugs will help the motor spin over faster.. and less laod on the main bearings... I just turned my 22r over till the oil light went out
07:03 Dude that was very graphic!... you just struck gold on that one!!!
+Juan Cabeza Hahahah. :)
When I put together my '68 Ford big block engine, I don't think I put anything in the pump at first. I did however spin it up with a drill (slowly at first until it picked up oil, then sped up) after installation. That pump turned so hard that both a dewalt and a ryobi drill emitted smoke while turning the pump. Pneumatic drills highly recommended for this task!
Suddenly glad for my pneumatic drill, thank you.
Hi! Which oil pump is most suitable for DIY oil extractor- pump assembly..
I`m going to do 3 gallon hand drill powered oil extractor, but i don`t know much about those pumps. Could you help me to pick one? I live in Finland/ there is only european cars, mine is Golf mk6 -09 Would you please help me..? One happy subscriber..!
We always use the drill method or the cranking method. Even with a junkyard swapped motor. I’m building and EJ257 and it’s going to be done with the fertilizer sprayer way first watching the oil pressure gauge then cranking. Lots of cranking. About 60 seconds worth of total cranking spread over, 5-6 short starter rest, periods. We always use “motor honey” or Lucas assembly lube (anything sticky) for brand new oil pumps.
Great insight!!! Thank you .
Are you using the fertilizer sprayer as a prelube tool to push the oil in the engine ? I'm looking for such a solution, this might actually work
I have a 2005 Ford Mustang 4.0 v6 and I’m trying to prime it and the 8mm socket doesn’t sit flush or 5/16 sock what proper tool do I need that fit into my engine so I can prime it
Are you using an ATP downpipe?
Thanks
Hello, I recently installed an engine on my Subaru and it's totally empty, no oil. Before starting it, is it possible for me to prime this newer motor in a similar way, maybe manually rotating the engine till all galleries are filled with oil?
Great tip Charles. I always prime the oil system after engine work.
Nice, i hate it when these get clogged at the filter area of the oil pump.
It makes me complain more about the customer and their maintenance habits than anything else, lol.
Very nice video 😀 keep it up, fledgling mechanic here, soaking in the info
I'm an old hand sometimes, but I've always worked in shops that avoided work on engines and transmissions, so when I was finally in a shop that didn't...well, I'm still a new hand on this stuff, lol.
Long story short, I loved the video too. :)
Doesn't petroleum jelly eat rubber, as in your engine seals?
How do you prime a new turbo?
nulon l90 is the best i use to fill the oil pump with it and bearings and camshaft when the engine have been renovatet oil pressure in 15 sec normaly
I replaced my oil pump in my vr years ago before I ever knew you had to prime it.. haven’t had any issues since. What’s suppose to happen if you don’t do that procedure? Any long term affects since I haven’t had any issues?
Probably not. But it’s good practice.
My car is on a hill, going to change the oil filter housing, then put in in neutral, liner it roll down hill some before starting. Should work the same eh.
My 4g63t refused to get oil pressure until i spun the oil pump with a drill.
Hey, my question isn't related to the video: My 2005.5 Jetta with the 2.5l just hit 100k miles. Should I get the timing chain changed? People have been warning me that they fail around 100k
The most common failure is the upper chain set. But with 100k and 12+ years it may not be a bad idea.
Cant you turn the crank bolt?
Humble mechanic I have an issue I hope you can help with. There is an 07 jetta with ban strut bearings now I got all but one of the bolts off the bolt in question is the top strut bolt. Right now it is just spinning around. Now I have tried vice grips to hold it and spin it off I've tried cutting the head off but it's really tight space now I'm thinking of cutting it off with a touch. But the bad thing is the wheel well is pretty rusty and very thin. Is there any other way of doing it?
Krankie V yes I know it's the top bolt that is spinning not the one holding down the bearings but the 3 little ones
Deadeye1983 you can use a hacksaw, sawzall, or pneumatic cutter to cut the nuts off. You just have to be careful not to destroy the strut tower in the process.
What is it red oil name ?
Great video. I have a related question to this. I work overseas and my car can sit for as much as a year. Should I do some sort of prime, like disconnect the wiring harness from the coil and pull the fuse on the fuel pump, or is it ok to just start the engine. I have just started it and it takes a few seconds for the oil in the lifters to build pressure. I wonder if I am doing damage to the engine.
So long as you don't put the engine under load before the oil pressure builds, I wouldn't worry about it too much. Start it, let it idle for one or two minutes and then drive it gently until its warmed up.
Thanks you for the input. That is pretty much what I do. The start usually does not sound that good at first until the hydraulic lifters build pressure, then it smooths out.
It's best to have someone start up the car once a month while you are away. Don't let the car sit on it's wheels without moving for a year, put it on jack stands. Disconnect the battery and put it on a trickle charger hooked to a timer. Drain the fuel.
Omg Charles...its getting close...😅😅😅
How do you prime a distributor less engine? Just only by cranking?
That or you can make a pressurizing tool to push oil into the engine via an oil pressure opening
You mention packing the oil pump with petroleum jelly, what is the potential risk of running something like this in an engine designed for synthetic high grade oil or putting oil stabilizer in the same sort of engine?
Very little. If I had done it that way, I would have changed the oil right away. I wouldn't leave that in for 10k miles.
Hey, just wondering if you did anything special for the lifters before installing? This was confusing for me when i dud my build. There is not a lot of info. Cheers!
+wilkes982 coated in oil and dropped them in.
depends on the lifter type. Solid lifters just coat in assembly oil but hydraulic lifters need to be submerged in engine oil for a while, preferably at least overnight.
+Krankie V, right, like on a Chevy engine?
Hi humble mechanic. I desperately need help on my golf 3 gti.
I’m expressing a rattling sound from my engine, I recently changed the lifters but I’m still getting the sound..
I also changed the oil pump and I primed it but just rotating the gears inside the oil before I installed it. But I’m still getting the sound
Please help, I’m afraid I might kill my engine
Mk3 vr6?
Does it really take min7tes ?
Hey Charles, just a general yes/no question: on a VW Touareg gas V6 (or any car really) does the oil pump start working when the starter turns the flexplate during cranking or does the oil pump start working only after ignition?
Most are mechanical so when the engine starts turning, the pump should start pumping
So the oil pump will start circulation when the starter motor turns the crank shaft?
with in a few revolutions.
HumbleMechanic Why, what happens if it's more than a few revolutions? Technically as long as the oil pump is working there should be no concern of damage right?
use to turn it without spark plugs then no pressure on the bearings
nice
Spin by hand? Really? I just almost burned up my electric drill priming my engine. Could it be that since it is a high-performance pump it is more difficult to spin? Or no.
Crap drill
Humble Mechanic, what oil are you running?
+Peter Sheehy I used some Liquimoly that I had.
Thank you!
What's the maximum oil pressure on the old VRs?
I get 100psi on a "cold" (60°F) start...
Jimny VR5 100 psi on a cold start is normal, 101 psi is maximum pressure but I think that's at operating at maximum rpm
What does your pressure get to on a warm idle. Also how early in the revs is it that you hit full pressure warm
Reuben Horner Usually 18-20 psi idle when warm, 60 or so at 2000rpm
Hmm, That looks normal to me. The cold pressure is crazy though. I have never seen anything that high before. Do you use synthetic oil?
Yeah 5W-40 Valvoline synthetic
Believe it or not but I do work😂😂😂
Do they do this at the factory when it's just being built
Good question. I’d like to think so.
Excellent question
I'm going old school and packing the oil pump with petroleum jelly
Yeah I lost a ford 289 because I didn't turn the page in How To Rebuild Your Small Block Ford where it said prime the pump!!!! 😭
Do you prime a motor when its been sitting for 7 yrs
I totally would. Drain and fill oil and crank engine with out starting
What about a yr and 6months?
Didn't realize it was a VW until I saw the engine bay.
6:10 You can buy a tool that does that job. You don't need to build one yourself. The Melling engine parts company makes that kind of tool.
Very profesional !!
hey dude what are those nipples for on the intake pipe ? im guessing one is for the dv but what is the other one from
+Mexico13luna dv and PCV
HumbleMechanic so having a pcv nipple I'm guessing yourw going to run a catch can ?
Eventually I am
What's a DV?
DE Nichols diverter valve
@4:16
You shouldn't link to the base amazon page for your affiliate link. TH-camrs bigger than you have had theirs revoked. One was big enough to get it reinstated though. You're supposed to link to a specific product like the tools you used or something.
+headcas620 thanks for the comment. I just emailed Amazon about it. Their language is a little u clear.
I sure don't want to get shut down. Lol.
For real, thank you
+headcas620 got an altar fast email from Amazon.
They said:
As long as viewers click on a link from your TH-cam video, then are redirected to Amazon, that is acceptable
Hey at least I got proof it's cool. Lol
You seem to have forgotten the word PRIME in the title.
+DJNokem :) I just saw that. And then fixed it
lol thats not how you tape a socket you are supposed to put the tape on the extension and put the socket over it.
You can use whatever method works best for you. Just as long as you're taking steps to be 100% sure the socket doesn't come off.
:D
too bad the oil pump is directly ran off the front of the crank on mine.. oh well
+001dman yeah. That step 2 doesn't work on a lot of cars
+wyndnra1n yep. I mentioned doing it that way. But you'll have to make the setup or just skip to part 3
more than likely. Could just go through the oil pressure sensor hole with a drill pump i suppose... engines not finished yet but i'll find a way when its done
My oil pump is also wrapped around the crank (Honda) so here's what I did. Very liberal with assy lube, built, cranked with plugs out ign and injectors disabled, 5sec crank intervals. On the 3rd try the crank speed suddenly increased dramatically and spun it another 5 sec. I took that as a full engine prime and started it. 30k miles ago. So far so good.
When I rebuilt the one in my car, before starting up I took the time to let it crank over for a minute or two since my oil pump is driven off my crank as well. Probably was overkill and probably nearly killed the battery, but I didn't want to rebuild it again.
Prime not necessary
How to an Engine...
+Drake Weston gotta keep them guessing. Lol
HumbleMechanic just messing 😂 watched the whole video and I loved it. Keep up the good work
LOL I like it. :)
dont do the over head views
+Bryan Estep why is that?
Its disorienting. Like when you were priming i didnt even know what angle it was until the next scene. Then the overhead view of the engine together was still weird.
+Bryan Estep this is an odd spot to get good footage of.
not really, the second scene of the priming was very good and doing that same angle on the engine all together would have worked perfect aswell.
+Bryan Estep I'll keep that in mind
211th view
All of this way wrong
Okay 👍
@@HumbleMechanic are you serious 😳 I know that does not work for me. But I apologize for my concern and my comment about this post 📫 of yours.
6:10 You can buy a tool that does that job. You don't need to build one yourself. The Melling engine parts company makes that kind of tool.
There’s a bunch of company’s that make the tool..