How I care for my Stanhopea annulata, differences with avicula & all 9 "primitive" Stanhopea species
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 ต.ค. 2023
- ALL my orchids featured in my videos are grown outdoors year-round in a sub-tropical climate.
The 9 so called "Primitive" Stanhopea species I am talking about are split in 4 groups:
* "Candida group" : candida, reichenbachiana and grandiflora which are all white flowers
* Annulata/Avicula group which are golden orange
* Tricornis which is a stand-alone species that has a different structure and is a pale yellow.
* Cirrhata/Pulla/Ecornuta group
This is a link to my previous video on a typical Stanhopea flower structure. The primitive species usually have no horns or are nearly hornless
• Typical structure of a...
I really like that one. I am going to have to keep an eye out for one. Thank you for all the information. 😊👍
You're welcome!
Great info; thanks for sharing!
Very beautiful plant ❤❤❤
Thanks Sir ❤
❤
Nice flower! I have one blooming soon, I have questions , how you water it when it flower? I am afraid that the water will damage the flower 😂
You should water the medium, not the flowers. This being said, the flowers only last 2 or 3 days, so it is not critical if you skip during that time.
Also, the lip is very hard. Only the petals and sepals are usually fragile
@@orchidhouse Thank you for asking my question. 🌷
Hey. Love ur videos ; so information. I'm in North TX (zone 8/8a) and have ordered some bare root stanhopea and ancinta orchids from S. America. Althougy I have viewed ur vid on repotting a bare root stanhope, any additiinal advice/videos you can give on nurturing such bare root orchids is appreciated in advance.
Acineta prefer a more intermediate climate, so your night temps will be better than mine but not when the temps go below 45 F. Same for Stanhopeas except the primitive species (tricornis, annulata, avicula, reichenbachiana, candida, grandiflora, cirrhata, pulla and ecornuta) which need heat year round. You hsoudl stay away form the primitive species. They won't grow where you are.
I would use 20% sphagnum moss, 40% bark, 20% perlite 20% charcoal. Acineta may be grown a bit drier than Stanhopeas.
Bare rooted plants will have a higher mortality rate. You need to baby them closely for a few months and monitor them constantly. Observation is key. If new growth rots = too much water. If no growth, more fertilizer, more water and/or more light but they can't have direct sunlight. These plants are eager growers. You should get new growth within a month or two and even small plants can have several growths at once.
I would recommend letting them approach dryness or even dull dryness but briefly. Then a real big soaking. The soaking is important but you need to let them get near dry each time.
Fertilizing is important.
These plants should be grown outdoors as much as possible. They are not ideal indoor plants. You get very cold nights. You need to keep an eye on that.
Good luck
@@orchidhouse Thanks for all these tips. As suggested, I have been keeping the stanhopea and ancinetas warm and keeping a good eyes on the temp, so I feel positive each will thrive more come spring. Fyi, I'm a north Florida native but currently reside in North Texas and truly miss the Florida weather in regards to plants.
I do incorporate sphag in my media for these orchids so thanks for that tip. I installed a mister system on my back patio to increase humidity in the summer while these orchids are hanging outside. I try to mimic the media of orchids in their native habits but modify it based on my habit in North TX, so adding more sphag works for me with watering here.
Probably TMI but, my stanhopea embreei has 4 new growths already since I purchased it 6 months ago.
I've been successful with the stanhopea florida, stanhopea jenischiana & stanhopea "predator".
The newly purchased, bare root stanhopea ruckeri & stanhopea gualacao x nigra are doing fine thus far also.
The bare root stanhopea grandiflora I purchased 3 months ago is starting to have 1 brown leaf tip of the 4 leaves, so I'll give it more moisture and humidity.
The 3 month old purchase of the coryanthes is thriving.
The month old, bare root purchase of the ancineta erythroxanthea is thriving along, with the angular safia.
Unfortunately, I've lost all leaves on the angula clowesii, even with daily monitoring. Although this orchid has new growth, or what I call "corms" growing from the psuedobulbs, I don't foresee it's making it with no leaves.
Again, thank you for your detailed reply. It is greatly appreciated.
Looks like you are doing great! I'm sure you'll be thrilled with the results :))
@@terriewilliams8831
@@orchidhouse Thanks. I'm hopeful that my hard work pays off as I've bloomed a Chelonistele sulphurea and just noticed yesterday that babying my Mormolyca richii start d a bloom spike.
Please ponder doing an orchid, master class. You'd be great at it. Thanks again,
Hard work always pays off! Cheers!@@terriewilliams8831
The leaf tips of my stanhopea has been turning brown, any idea what causes this? I live in Hawaii, I have them growing in a plastic basket with sphagnum moss and in the shade.
If you look at my video, you will see that I have not yet mastered the art of clean leaves on a Stanhopea (although I pride myself in having very clean orchids in general). That is because their leaves are prone to fungal diseases due to the high moisture and humidity they require.
It is hard to give a definitive answer to your question. the most likely culprit is that you grow them too dry ???? If not, they may get too much fertilizer or it may be a fungal problem like anthracnose which is common on Stanhopeas. It may be many different things.
Greetings to Hawaii! Aloha!
@@orchidhouse Mahalo for your response. I’ve only been growing orchids for about 4 years now. It’s something I enjoy very much but keeping them all healthy can be a challenge. I mounted my Maxillaria Tenuifolia after watching the video of yours💚 Mahalo for sharing your knowledge with all of us 🤙🏽
My pleasure. Good luck!
Believe me: I learn every day too! This is an endless subject and indeed a wonderful hobby!@@orchidsinparadise2438
I would like to purchase a Stanhopea that is similar to your large blooming one. Do you order from So America or locally?
Hard to come by in the US. Most of mine come from South American vendors. Tamiami and the Redlands are your best options but there will be a rare plant festival on 10/20 at the Redlands and Orquídeas del valle from Colombia usually sells Stanhopeas and will attend.
www.rareplantfestival.com/?Rare%20Plant&
The vendors who usually carry Stanhopeas are
Ecuagenera and Mundiflora (Ecuador),
Orquídeas del valle and orquifolliajes (Colombia),
Peruflora and Orquídeas amazonicas (Peru)
At the bonnet House festival last year, Ornamentales Ledezma (Costa Rica) attended and had great stuff.
If you are still interested in the wooden structures you saw, you can text Scott at 954-629-3627. Texting is the best way to reach him
I must add that establishing bare rooted imported Stanhopeas means a much higher risk of losing them the first 6 months. I made a video on the subject
th-cam.com/video/J60_54kz7rk/w-d-xo.html
I have a Stanhopea Jenischiana x Inadora since May 2021. Never grew, never bloomed😩. Suddenly, about 1 month ago, I saw 2 small growths and, since they were coming through the bottom half of the basket, I got all excited thinking, finally, I was going to get some flowers! WRONG: 2 new growths. What am I doing wrong? Since it has been in the same basket for over 2 years, should I put it in a new basket with new medium and what do you recommend for medium? Thanks a lot😍
It is a hybrid, so it should be growing even faster. Since you have 2 new growths, I would recommend that you monitor and see how it evolves. May be it was unhappy but now finally started growing?
Not sure though why the new growths come from the bottom of the basket. They may come from the side but the bottom is unusual.
For medium I recommend a blend of sphagnum moss + charcoal + perlite and medium bark. I have reduced the amount of moss I use. Watering is the most difficult part; you hear they should never dry out but you should still let them get nearly dry and then soak them real good. Critical is the soaking but also not to let them stay soggy.
FYI inodora is now called ruckeri. It was a real misnomer since inodora means scentless and the plant did have a real scent....
Good luck!
Thank you so much. I probably let it dry too much and too long. I am definitely going to be better about the watering😉. Thanks for letting me know about the change in the name. I am going to put it on the tag!
That is probably why the plant is not happy....@@bibicheknauf4163
Which stanhopeas can thrive in north texas?
I'm not sure as I don't know your climate but I assume you have dry warm summers and moderate winters with occasional frost?????
@@orchidhouse Yes. Hardness zone 8a. I'm guessing I'll need to keep any stanhopea misted out here.
They like moist, humid and moderate light but while they need to be kept moist they should not be soggy. @@terriewilliams8831
@@orchidhouse Thanks. I can meet those conditions. I'm gonna give a stanhopea a try and your orchids are all beautiful. Thanks again.
Best of luck and keep me posted.
Thank you for tuning in to my channel!@@terriewilliams8831