Just found your channel. I did a simular conversion on my pajero 2.8L. I fitted the patrol turbo but was a bit more work as I needed an adaptor flange to the manifold and had to clock the exhaust and compressor housings. Im running the vaccuum actuator with a GFB Dboost 2 and working on an electronic controller so I can reduce back pressure when cruising at part throttle.
@@ReubsModifications it drives nicer with a better spread of torque and quick boost response. At the moment accelleration is about the same as stock but its running way leaner while I run in the rebuilt motor. Just waiting on some parts for a FMIC then will crack up the boost to 20psi and turn the pump back up. (Mechanical injection). It also has a 3inch exhaust. The dump has about 10mm of 2.5inch then steps up to 3inch to give clearance for bolts.
@@biohazardousBiker Its hard to explain, but not too difficult to do depending on how you want it clocked. Your limited to where the exhaust housing can be rotated by the ring that moves the vanes and being able to fit the actuator. I managed to move mine close to 90deg but had to modify the bracket for the actuator. You need to work out how far it needs to be clocked then move the vane control ring to a position that is close, then work out where the turbine housing needs to sit so the vanes end up in the same resting position as stock or adjust the stop so they are. There is a pin that locks the position that I removed and redrilled in the new position. It should make sense once you remove the turbine housing. The compressor housing can freely be clocked like any other turbo, except it can foul with the actuator.
A suggestion: Keep the 13PSI spring and run an EBC. It will allow you to run dual stage boost levels, high for power and back it off on the highway cruise, running high all the time just loads up the snail more and produces more TDP (Turbine Drive Pressure) resulting in poorer economy. The Mamba uses a piston (not a "Bucket") Vs. diaphram of others but the aluminum of the piston can fret or wear away on the internal thread. The rod should be screwed all way into the piston with thread-locker and seized permanatly. Undo the C-clip and the fittings off the bottom for adjustment. The EGT probe is best in the manifold prior to the turbo as you can see signifgant temp drop through the turbo and dump area. Not sure what I am meaning, watch a heap of dyno runs and look at what is glowing and what is not. I have seen many say they are running low EGT's of under 450°C but probe is 4-6 inches down the dump pipe in signifigantly cooler gas flow. The dump pipe, yeah, not a fan sorry. You should start the pipe at the same diameter at the turbine outlet and step it up gradually. The big pipe will just produce turbulance right at the turbine outlet causing poorer flow. Beanie, roll it around, easier than you think. Well worth having it. Beanie and wrapped dump pipe will see that side of the engine bay cold.
I might look into an EBC when I go to an aftermarket turbo and a tune, currently only sees high boost (16+) under load but highway usually sits around 10-12. I didn't want to lock any of the actuator as I wasn't sure if ill need to change the spring or tweak anything in the near future. My EGT is mounted in the EGR block off plate as I removed my entire EGR system so the probe sits between cylinder 3 and 4 right where the turbo is mounted. I've heard the same about pre and post turbo temp differences I just thought if anyone were to go through the same process of making a dump pipe but didn't already have an EGT its way easier to do it while its out of the car. As for EGT change they've dropped 50-100 depends on how you're driving but before the swap I was seeing 400-500 on the highway now its 300-400, another reason why I want to keep the boost up just a bit. I agree with what you're saying about the dump pipe outlet but I couldn't see an easy and tidy way for me to slope from a smaller diameter up. Ill give the beanie another go and have some heat wrap ready to put on just didn't want to jump the gun and be fiddling with an itchy pipe. Also going to move the boost reference to the turbo casting where you said as mine is currently on the intercooler pipe that goes to my intake so its a long way from the turbo.
@@ReubsModifications Aewsome, sounds like you're on the right path. Yes, the boost actuators work best with the their signal/refererence as close to the snail as possible.
G'day @@ReubsModifications, been following your channel for a bit now. Is swapping the actuator from the stock turbo a simple mod? I just did the patrol turbo mod on the weekend and have missed that part about vacuum vs positive pressure actuators.
Hey mate, because I used an aftermarket boost actuator it’s the same as the navara boost control. Take a boost reference from your intake pipe to the wastegate actuator 👍🏻
Love it man! Any vids of the EGR delete/EGT sensor install? Also would love to know any info on tuning, boost response/lag, dyno graph etc etc... Keen to watch this progress mate!
Hey mate no videos on those yet as I did those mods before I started filming but I have been thinking of doing a mod list video to catch everyone up on what I’ve already done so I can put that on the list. Haven’t got the nav tuned yet but will definitely record that and post all dyno sheets and info. Thanks for the comment mate 👍🏻
There’s a butterfly valve in the intake that shuts to help turn the engine off. If you rev the car and switch it off the butterfly closes like a throttle body and sends the boost back through the turbo 👍🏻
Just found your channel. I did a simular conversion on my pajero 2.8L. I fitted the patrol turbo but was a bit more work as I needed an adaptor flange to the manifold and had to clock the exhaust and compressor housings. Im running the vaccuum actuator with a GFB Dboost 2 and working on an electronic controller so I can reduce back pressure when cruising at part throttle.
Sounds like a bit more effort than my conversion, how does it go on the pajero?
@@ReubsModifications it drives nicer with a better spread of torque and quick boost response. At the moment accelleration is about the same as stock but its running way leaner while I run in the rebuilt motor. Just waiting on some parts for a FMIC then will crack up the boost to 20psi and turn the pump back up. (Mechanical injection).
It also has a 3inch exhaust. The dump has about 10mm of 2.5inch then steps up to 3inch to give clearance for bolts.
@@devojet that’s awesome sounds like what I’ve got at the moment (running lean for now) and stepping it down from 3in for the bolts is a good idea.
@@devojet hi Daniel, I've got a gt2052v that I'm going to put on a 2.8 surf. I also need to clock the Turbo. Can get some advice off you?
cheers, Ben.
@@biohazardousBiker Its hard to explain, but not too difficult to do depending on how you want it clocked. Your limited to where the exhaust housing can be rotated by the ring that moves the vanes and being able to fit the actuator. I managed to move mine close to 90deg but had to modify the bracket for the actuator. You need to work out how far it needs to be clocked then move the vane control ring to a position that is close, then work out where the turbine housing needs to sit so the vanes end up in the same resting position as stock or adjust the stop so they are. There is a pin that locks the position that I removed and redrilled in the new position. It should make sense once you remove the turbine housing. The compressor housing can freely be clocked like any other turbo, except it can foul with the actuator.
A suggestion: Keep the 13PSI spring and run an EBC. It will allow you to run dual stage boost levels, high for power and back it off on the highway cruise, running high all the time just loads up the snail more and produces more TDP (Turbine Drive Pressure) resulting in poorer economy. The Mamba uses a piston (not a "Bucket") Vs. diaphram of others but the aluminum of the piston can fret or wear away on the internal thread. The rod should be screwed all way into the piston with thread-locker and seized permanatly. Undo the C-clip and the fittings off the bottom for adjustment.
The EGT probe is best in the manifold prior to the turbo as you can see signifgant temp drop through the turbo and dump area. Not sure what I am meaning, watch a heap of dyno runs and look at what is glowing and what is not. I have seen many say they are running low EGT's of under 450°C but probe is 4-6 inches down the dump pipe in signifigantly cooler gas flow.
The dump pipe, yeah, not a fan sorry. You should start the pipe at the same diameter at the turbine outlet and step it up gradually. The big pipe will just produce turbulance right at the turbine outlet causing poorer flow.
Beanie, roll it around, easier than you think. Well worth having it. Beanie and wrapped dump pipe will see that side of the engine bay cold.
I might look into an EBC when I go to an aftermarket turbo and a tune, currently only sees high boost (16+) under load but highway usually sits around 10-12. I didn't want to lock any of the actuator as I wasn't sure if ill need to change the spring or tweak anything in the near future.
My EGT is mounted in the EGR block off plate as I removed my entire EGR system so the probe sits between cylinder 3 and 4 right where the turbo is mounted. I've heard the same about pre and post turbo temp differences I just thought if anyone were to go through the same process of making a dump pipe but didn't already have an EGT its way easier to do it while its out of the car. As for EGT change they've dropped 50-100 depends on how you're driving but before the swap I was seeing 400-500 on the highway now its 300-400, another reason why I want to keep the boost up just a bit.
I agree with what you're saying about the dump pipe outlet but I couldn't see an easy and tidy way for me to slope from a smaller diameter up. Ill give the beanie another go and have some heat wrap ready to put on just didn't want to jump the gun and be fiddling with an itchy pipe. Also going to move the boost reference to the turbo casting where you said as mine is currently on the intercooler pipe that goes to my intake so its a long way from the turbo.
@@ReubsModifications Aewsome, sounds like you're on the right path. Yes, the boost actuators work best with the their signal/refererence as close to the snail as possible.
Hi! In a similar project, a Jeep Cherokee. At max turbo boost, does the actuator push the adjustment lever all the way to the end position?
Hey, yes the actuator does open the vanes all the way to the open position
Ah yeah would have made a huge difference if you took us viewers for a drive too.
That’s not a bad idea I’ll look into that👍🏻
do you have a link to the turbo actuator you are running?
Hey mate I had one off a d22 stock turbo and modified it to suit the patrol turbo, I think turbo smart make one to suit the patrol
G'day @@ReubsModifications, been following your channel for a bit now. Is swapping the actuator from the stock turbo a simple mod? I just did the patrol turbo mod on the weekend and have missed that part about vacuum vs positive pressure actuators.
Hey dude how did u do the boost hoses ??
Hey mate, because I used an aftermarket boost actuator it’s the same as the navara boost control. Take a boost reference from your intake pipe to the wastegate actuator 👍🏻
@@ReubsModifications cheers mate
Love it man! Any vids of the EGR delete/EGT sensor install? Also would love to know any info on tuning, boost response/lag, dyno graph etc etc...
Keen to watch this progress mate!
Hey mate no videos on those yet as I did those mods before I started filming but I have been thinking of doing a mod list video to catch everyone up on what I’ve already done so I can put that on the list.
Haven’t got the nav tuned yet but will definitely record that and post all dyno sheets and info. Thanks for the comment mate 👍🏻
What’s the key flick thing you did to get it to flutter?
There’s a butterfly valve in the intake that shuts to help turn the engine off. If you rev the car and switch it off the butterfly closes like a throttle body and sends the boost back through the turbo 👍🏻
@@ReubsModifications so just turning the car off makes flutter?
@@arcticnexus8218 yeah rev it and when it’s up in revs turn it off or get your mate to rev it and close the valve manual
Hey mate did you have to use a patrol manifold
Nah mate bolts straight onto the nav manifold but if you wanted you could use the patrol manifold
hey reubs could u answer my insta dm please
Sure thing mate, the message requests don’t send a notification so I often miss them. I’ll change my settings 👍🏻
@@ReubsModifications ur a legend bro, love everything u do
@@theriverboys2224 cheers mate 🤙🏻